Aeeshah

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfQa3wCyqZuvYx919

 

Renewing our paperwork

On returning to Planencia it was time for us to “re-up” in other words apply for another months stay in Belize.

We all went together, Rainbows End – Pam and Don; Latitude – Carol and Derick; plus us. 1st step is getting the 7:30am Hokey Pokey to Mango Creek.

There we were lucky to get Pappy as our taxi driver, lucky because we have used him before and he is well versed with the process. Off we drove through Independence to the Immigration office. We had all of our usual necessary papers, but the officer at the window wanted to see our bank statement….yep, a bank statement, he said, to prove to him we could support ourselves while in Belize. Of course there is no understanding on his part that the demand is an imposition into our privacy….. So after some quick online sleuthing we manage to get something from an American account on John’s phone. Go back to the window and it’s a different officer, who doesn’t want to see our finances. Just the boat papers of ownership are proof of assets to him!

Anyway got the month at Immigration at a cost of $200 each, up from $50 last year.

The next stop customs, was easy, a couple of stamps on our papers and off to Port Authority. Again, friendly, easy going staff quickly fill out our forms and we pay for another month.

Off we went back to the Hokey Pokey, zooming back to Placencia and in plenty of time to all meet for fish and chip lunch at Pickled Parrot.

Pappy had chatted to me during the drive telling me about a few places that he could take us to for a day’s tour. It sounded interesting so as a group we decided to head out with Pappy that Monday.

Mango Creek, Independence and the surrounding town area.

Pappy picked us up from the Hockey Pockey stop at Mango Creek and proceeded to drive around the town area of Independence showing us the schools, council meeting area, shops and such. We stopped at what had been the cruise ship stopping/shopping area which is all now closed and abandoned. Pappy used to have a stall there, hopefully one day the area will be able to open again.

We headed along the Punta Gorda road stopping at a friend’s little cafe/bar/farm,

Coleman’s Place.

Here we had a cold drink, chatted and had a look around. It is a very unique place that the fellow has built. Decorated with old bottles, antelope horns and other pieces which have been found in or around the river on the property.

There was a tub of cashew fruit for us to try and take home.

Not many folks realize that the cashew nut develops not on the inside but on the outside of the fruit. The fruit tasted extremely sweet, but had a funny dry texture. It can be squeezed and used as juice or in smoothies. Everyone loved the flavour of the fruit.

Coconut farms, bananas and the runway

Traveling along we stopped at Pappy’s farm that he is developing. His main crop will be coconuts. Pappy explained that most farms have changed or started to change from citrus to coconuts. They are in demand for coconut oil, milk, meat and husk, the tree is easy to grow, produces bountiful fruit and need little care. Further along the road we saw hundreds of acres of coconuts being farmed on huge commercial farms.

We stopped outside a banana plantation processing plant. Bananas are also in huge demand but require more specialized care. This processing plant was unable to open for us at that time, but we could see much of it from outside the gates.

Still further along Pappy told us the name for that section of road was “the runway” as it had and still could be used for drug planes. They fly in land on the runway, quickly unload and leave, the police keep watch and have managed to intervene with one flight. The fires that were burning along the roadsides had been deliberately lit to clear the undergrowth. Apparently instead of cleaning the roadside the folks responsible now just light fires.

Akte’Ilha Cacoa Farm

Was our next stop. This is a family owned organic farm that mainly grows Cacoa. Here we met our guide Ray, whose Dad had started the whole operation. We followed a pathway leading uphill, stopping along the way to listen to information about Cacoa and other trees and plants.

They have 3 main types of Cacoa growing on the farm that are used for their chocolate.

Cacoa trees produce their flowers and fruits along any part of the trunk or branch of the tree.

The flowers are very small and quite delicate, relying on pollination in order to become fruit. They keep the trees shorter in order to be able to harvest the Cacoa pods. Our guide broke open a ripe pod and offered us the soft white pulpy fruit inside. The while pulp covers the Cacoa beans and it tastes wonderful! Almost like a sweet vanilla flavor. Everyone had several samples of the fruit.

As we continued along the path Ray showed us many other plants and fruits explaining their uses. One was Alspice, the dry seed being used for seasoning, but also the leaf used for numbing sore gums.

Coffee beans, most of which had been harvested, the Craboo tree with its orange blossoms, which I had seen growing along the lanes in Placencia, it’s fruit being edible berries called Nance.

The Achiote fruit whose dried berries are used to make Recado paste, a red food coloring.

We were shown the spring, the water source for the farm, which runs downhill to their catchment. Near the spring he pointed out a palmetto covered in long sharp thorns, telling us this was the Akte Palm which grows all over the property. And the name of the spring is Ilha, thus the name of the farm is: Akte’Ilha.

Nearing the top we were given some Jipi Japa shoots to try. I had seen Mayans in Guatemala selling these shoots but never knew what they were for, now I knew, they are essentially similar to Palm Hearts. The lower white part tastes wonderful, they are a popular food source.

Once at the top of the hill we were able to look out across the whole area seeing all the way to the coast. Ray then pointed out how the trees and plants in the farm had been grown in layers affording shade to each other thereby growing in harmony.

On our way down he showed us one of the bigger shade trees and its fruit, the Jack Fruit. It is just enormous  and also grows right out of the trunk or branch of the tree.

Our guide, Ray told John how the farm extends right up into the Mayan mountains behind and that he and his brother had been up at 5am into the mountain harvesting corn they had growing. They then carried a load each in bags, which straps they had hung from their foreheads. On our return he showed us the bags, each were a good 100lbs!!

The next treat was seeing and helping to make chocolate. His wife had beans roasting on an small open oven inside one of the buildings.

Once the beans were roasted she showed us how the shells were shucked off.

She then took the pan outside and shook the pan so all the husks blew away.

Back inside the beans were smashed and next rolled into a paste. No water was added the paste simply formed from the dried beans themselves. Each of us could have a turn at this process.

From the paste, which is pure chocolate they add sugar to make the bars or use it to make nibs, small chocolate pieces, or their special chocolate drink.

This chocolate drink is like the Mayan champagne, reserved for special occasions, for example, an engagement. A jug of chocolate drink had been make for us to try, it was amazing!!

Just an excellent flavor and so refreshing. We all had several calabash cup fulls.

Off we drove to Nim Li Punit

This is an archaeological site that had been occupied by the Mayans from approximately AD400 till approximately AD800. We took ourselves around the site which was shaded by large trees. Pathways wound around the whole park area with informational boards telling a bit about each group of structures.

The ball court which was essential to most Mayan settlements was our 1st area.

E group which was where the Mayans provided a fixed location for observing the sun, moon and stars.

The Royal tombs where archeologists had found 5 bodies, sea shells, pottery, jade, sting ray spines and carved stone.

From the top of the site we had a lovely view across the area imagining ourselves standing where the ancient Mayans stood. The whole park area was very nice to walk around, being shaded and well maintained.

Belize Spice Farm and Biological Gardens

By this stage we were all starving …. And quite thirsty, so we were well pleased with the lovely resturant.

After our very nice lunch we had a quick look around the Spice shop and then loaded up into the wagon that was attached to a tractor for our Spice farm tour.

The tour starts off down the bougainvillea arches where we would stop intermittently to be informed about various plants growing along the way.

The most beautiful of flowers were growing in the lily ponds. These were Lotus flowers aka shower head water lilies. I had never seen them before and found the whole scene lovely.

Our guide picked one of the green shower heads seed pods and popped the white seeds out showing us they were also edible, quite tasty too.

There were the huge lily pads from China and other varieties of lovely waterlilies.

At another point along the archway there was the Blue Pigeon Pea flower (the Clitoral flower) from India which produces an edible pea.

The Red Passion Flower from Brazil, which is ornamental, the Sand Paper plant with a beautiful bunches of blue flowers, each pillar of the arch had a differing interesting plant/flower.

We then started along, and up, and down the many rows of specialized trees and plants all of which our guide gave us an enormous amount of info about each one.

The ornamental Golden shower, the very fragrant Ilang- Ilang (tree) used for perfumes both of which come from India, the Philippines south east Asia.

The teak trees which after harvest sprouts regrowth, to again grow another trunk.

The coconut trees, which produce a multitude of coconuts.

The nutmeg trees whose fruits hold the nutmeg which is a valuable crop.

Dragon Fruit from China, which blooms at night and are pollinated by bats.

Cardamom plants from India whose seeds produce the flavorful spice.

Turmeric roots and ginger roots both popular spices that are also very good for you. The differing bamboo where the iguanas were hiding.

The ornamental Silver Palmetto and Ponytail Palm, behind which stood a magnificent Mahogany tree, which are now quite rare.

There was a large area where vanilla was growing under the shade of teak trees. Vanilla is an orchid, this variety was the Flat Leaf Vanilla from Mexico.

The plant was attached and supported on a post, under teak trees for shade. It is very pampered crop as it is a very valuable crop. The reason for its value is that each blossom blooms only for 6 hours and in that time it has to be pollinated by the workers otherwise the vanilla bean does not develop.

Plus the bean must not be disturbed until it reaches maturity, at about 5 months later or else it stops growing. Our guide explained that he and other workers would be out and up and down the rows for hours every early morning for a few months during flowering season. 

The next area visited was again vines growing on posts under the shade of teak trees. This vine was the Black Pepper vine. I never realized that Black Pepper came from a vine. This crop is also a very labour intensive crop that is also valuable. John tasted the black pepper corns and found that they are extremely spicy.

We were back at the main building and restaurant area and it was time to head back to Independence. The day was wonderful, we were all very happy with the day Pappy had shown us. We drove back to the Hokey Pokey and were soon back in Placencia.

The flower is aware of the fact that it contains everything within it, the whole cosmos, and it does not try to become something else. – Thich Nhat Hanh

 

 

 

Placencia

 After receiving our Astra Zeneca from the local clinic both John and I did not feel 100%. He woke the next day with a raging headache and feeling hung over. He actually wondered if he’d had too many beers the evening before. I felt jet lagged, like slow of mind and body like a real 65 year old. Neither of us did much that day, we just chilled. 

We were soon back into our morning walks, which are basically a big loop around Placencia. 

The weather had been incredibly hot, just soaring temperatures in the high 90s with hardly a breath of air, dust covered the cars and bushes, the sand on the lanes would burn through the soles of your flip flops to the underside of your feet, incredibly hot.

Then the burning started, yep once again this year they started burning the fields and roadsides. So the skies filled with smoke, the air was hot, still and smoky!

We were saved by the weather that moved in during one afternoon. The winds switched to the South blowing right into the harbour causing the seas to roll in too. John had been helping move our friend’s boat, but arrived back before it became too rolly. We moved d Aeeshah into the lagoon where it is always protected from all directions. The winds blew the horrible smoke inland while a thunderstorm started moving in from the north.

We could hear the thunder rumbling in the distance for ages, dark clouds rolled in and the whole weather situation switched up. Cool breeze became cool winds, the rumbling became much louder the lightening was flashing all around and the first rains for some weeks started to fall. The night fell and the weather continued, the winds rose to gusts of about 30 knots, by morning Aeeshah was nicely washed off, the temperature was cooler and a pleasant breeze blew. 

 

 

We enjoyed a few get-togethers with our friends off of Latitude and Rainbows end at Sunfish, the property Michael and Rere are sitting for. We did pot lucks for lunch which saved having to cook.

Local street foods are always great to eat. The Jacks and Stuffed Jacks are yummy. Plus the pies, small pies stuffed with meat are great.

After a week of stocking up, cleaning, and other chores finally the weather was looking good to head out to the outer cays. 

South Water Cay

Our destination for the week was SouthWater Cay and Tobacco Cay. 

We sailed the whole way to SouthWater and anchored in the deep sandy water off the reef. John had caught a large Cobia along the way, so the first task was cleaning the fish. Chico relishes these fish cleaning sessions, but he was a bit put out this time as he had to share.

The Frigate Birds arrived and swooped in for any scraps. These birds are amazing! Huge birds that fly and soar so gracefully, they cannot enter the water as their feathers are not water proofed with oils. Instead they have to secure the food from the surface or just under the surface with beak or claws.

Our days basically entailed snorkelling in the mornings and afternoons plus going in the dinghy along the inshore reefs. Basic, easy going fun times exploring together.

 

We enjoyed snorkelling through the deep cut between SouthWater and Carrie Bow Cay. There, in the depths of 15 – 20 feet, we could see a school of tarpon lazing below.

While on the outer reef there were forests of stag horn corals with the waves breaking over them. The fish were wonderful, many differing, colourful species gliding around the corals. 

Across the cut off of Carrie Bow Cay we snorkelled the shallower reef.

Again, it was a lovely snorkel. I saw schools of Sergeant Majors, Yellow Grunts, Snappers and more juvenile fish hiding amongst the corals and sea whips. 

When we motored in the dinghy along the inside, shallow reef there were always numerous rays gliding along. John likes to follow them in the dinghy. The rays always head to the very shallows where we can’t take the dinghy.

During one morning visit to South water Cay I spotted a pair of handsome Osprey in the casuarina trees. I was lucky enough to be able to walk right along the sand spit to just near the trees and watch them in the branches.

Tobacco Cay

After several days we moved along to Tobacco Cay. The snorkelling there is amazing! Through the deep cut between the cay and the reef of the other side, in the deep water, there were huge schools of tarpon.

Just too many to count, gliding along following each other in large circles along the sandy bottom. I followed a group of speckled rays gliding just above the reef area.

In this cut the reef is deeper but well flushed and healthy with all types of corals and reef fish. 

It was the full moon, the Pink Super Moon,at the time we were there so the tides were lower than normal.

One afternoon when the reef was exposed John and I ventured for a walk along the exposed reef. It is sort of like walking on the edge of the world….

The weather was and had been getting very windy which was making the evenings and nights a bit risky anchored out at the reef. So it was decided to head back to Placencia a day early. 

“The consequences of your life are sown in what you do and how you behave.”

—  Tom Shadyac

Sapodilla’s Cays PHOTO album link–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HaHwSQAdJnMsWjin9

Underwater PHOTO album link–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/rcUf3wabcPSd3Qag7

Off to the Sapodillas

We wanted to visit areas where we had not been before. The weather looked settled and just about perfect for a visit to the Spapordilla cays. These Cays are on the outer ring of the Belize reef line. They are in the South eastern part of the outer cays. The whole area is a national marine park reserve. This system covers an area of 38,595 acres and is considered one of the top sites to see the true biodiversity of corals throughout Belize. There are 7 main cays all of which have a reputation for being beautiful, quiet, interesting with excellent snorkelling.

We set off from Placencia with the idea that we would start at Tom Owen’s cay. The passage over was a peaceful sail followed by a motor sail as the wind lessened. 

We ended up by passing Tom Owen’s and anchoring off of North Sapodilla and Frank’s Cay in deep sand outside the reef and inner bays. 

That afternoon we dinghied in to scout out the reef and the two islands. The reef looked lovely, and the water crystal clear. From the dinghy North East Sapodilla looked wild and Frank’s Cay looked abandoned and interesting.

We stopped at the small cay next to Frank’s Cay, which apparently, according to the cruising guide, used to be part of Frank’s when charted in 1835 but has since been weather worn – fragmented away. 

The sands there were very gooey where you could tell mangroves used to be growing. I sank down to nearly my knees a few times, not really very pleasant feeling. We could see Frigite Birds nesting in the branches of a casuarina on Frank’s Cay near an abandoned home. Everything looked very exciting for our explorations of the next few days.

Frank’s Cay (Grass cay)

Bright and early we set off to explore. This cay used to be where the Reef Conservation International was located. Apparently there had been accommodation, a bar and restaurant, scuba center and more.

Well, it’s not there now. All that stands are what used to be the buildings and rusty equipment. Everything is being taken over by the forces of nature. There are no pathways, the ground is covered by vines. Hermit carbs of many sizes crawl everywhere. The birds have reclaimed the trees, and hopped around the branches above our heads, totally unafraid of us explorers. 

We walked all around, surprised by the disintegration of what used to be. Our greatest find was a pair of large mangrove crabs that were hiding in an old water cistern. 

Northeast Sapodilla

This island, our second stop, was totally different. The cay was surrounded by coral rock walls that the sea had formed over the ages. On the inside of the island when one looked from atop these walls, it appeared to be swampy. We could see large ferns and other vegetation that frequents wetland, swampy environments. 

The shoreline also was quite rocky with some sandy beach areas. We just seemed to wander off around the isle. John was ahead, I was distracted by shell hunting, and being quite successful.

I found many lovely shells, but only kept the few I liked the best, stuffing them in my bathing suit to carry them meant I also only had limited room.

On the far reef side I saw John climbing the hull of a wrecked sailboat. It was laying inside the reef line and had been laid bare by the sea. It’s name was “Green Flash”. Walking through the shallows over the rocks and sand clambering under the low hanging branches of the Buttonwood trees reminded me of our days in the Bahamas. It really was a fun walk all the way around the cay.

Our morning snorkel off Northeast Sapodilla along the reef line was excellent too. The corals and fish were numerous and varied. I even saw Rockfish, which is quite rare these days. 

Our afternoon snorkel was off of the inside reef line that was to the north of us. The corals were spectacular! Extremely healthy corals of many differing types.

The Stag horn coral was abundant, as the water was quite shallow there were plenty of juvenile fish. That was an excellent afternoon snorkelling.

The next day John and I headed off to see what the other islands looked like and if it was worth moving our anchorage closer to them. We dinghied along the reef line towards Nicolas cay.

Being as it was Sunday we could see several folks enjoying the cay, so we bypassed it and carried on towards Hunting Cay.  We crossed Nicholas Cut which is a deep cut through the reefs to outside the reefs. The water was unbelievable turquoise blue, just beautiful. 

Hunting Cay

This cay is called the gem of the Sapodillas due to its beautiful beaches and amazing reefs. We tied up to an old dock situated about half way along the cay.

Behind the dock were the ruins of what we guessed used to be a restaurant or such. Signs pointed to trails, but the undergrowth had taken over any old trails and they were no more. Along the beach and shaded grove of trees we wandered. The only sounds were of the birds calling to one another.

We came upon the old Immigration building and quarters for the staff. All closed now due to the covid times. The few parks fellows were behind their building doing chores. There was nobody around the coast guard quarters but music played from within.

We had been told they were all down to minimum staff, but hoped to have more when and if restrictions were lifted. Really the whole set up looked in need of finances. Wandering along the fuel dock we could see nothing had been used for quite a few years. We had a very sweet companion follow us, a young female dog, she was full of energy even in the hot sun.

Following a sign we went behind the buildings and came to a bay on the other side of the cay. This bay was a perfect horseshoe bay and one of the beaches where the turtles lay their eggs. 

We concluded where we were anchored was perfect, so not to move the boats.

Again we snorkeled the afternoon away. This time on the reef near where the boats were anchored.

Once again the corals were stunning, the small reef fish numerous and colourful.

A barracuda made an appearance, but then disappeared.

John decided to fly the drone as the wind was non existent. This would be the first time other than at catamaran that he was able to enjoy flying it. We went ashore to the little cay next to Franks.

I wandered around, while John got the drone up and about.

Meanwhile Derrick and Carol had been doing their own explorations, basically the same as us but at their own times.

However Derrick suggested exploring together the next day.  So, the following morning off we set the first destination being:

Nicolas Cay.

Being a Monday there were very few folks about. We tied up to a tree off a beach near an old home on Nicolas Cay. This cay is frequented by fishermen and their families.

We walked around the entire cay, not being that large it didn’t take long. Along the way we had a look at the deserted buildings and wondered wether they were old homes or small resorts.

There were some fly fishermen off the shallows to one end of the cay.

To me it looked like mullet they were casting for, but apparently it’s some type of bone fish. Derick is a very keen fly fisherman, he said the fellow casting off of the boat had probably paid at least $700 for the privilege  of casting for these fish.

Nicholas is a very clean pretty cay. 

Lime Cay

We skipped up to Lime Cay in the dinghy next and could easily see that this was not an anchorage as the surf was rolling up the beach. Again this is a very pretty cay with lovely beaches. There we met a couple and their grandson.

They have this small resort which is mainly used by Guatemalans who visit from the Rio on their very large fancy motor yachts.

The resort is quite rustic, but very well maintained. The grandson was very happy to show us around. 

Hunting Cay

We dropped anchor off the beach and went ashore for a walk about. Once again visiting the main dock. It was very quiet as there were only the few Coast Guard  men there. The Ports folks had gone to the mainland for fuel.

We ended up lounging in the water off the beach. It was such a hot day being in the water was the best place to be……

And back to Placencia

We decided that the weather was breaking up, winds were less predictable which indicated time to move. There was a great sailing angle for Placencia so off we went. Sailing the entire way about 25 miles in under 4 hours we arrived just before 1:00pm. Along the way our wifi signal kicked in and I had a message from a friend in Placencia to say the covid vaccinations were taking place at the clinic.

We dropped anchor, check it, tidied a bit, and zipped off for the clinic. Sure enough they were vaccinating and after a hot 45 minutes wait we were ushered inside and given our covid 19 Astra Zeneca vaccination. 

Like all explorers, we are drawn to discover what’s waiting out there without knowing yet if we have the courage to face it. – Pema Chodron

There are only moments. Live in this one. The happiness of these days. – Kate Millett 

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/aUMWRp9EeFBWFvbE8

 

And we are off, Cayo Quemado, Livingstone, Tres Puntas, Punta Gorda, New Haven and Placencia

We set off for Cayo Quemado on sunny, March 26th Chico was quite put out, at one stage I wondered if he was going to jump off and swim back to Catamaran, but he soon settled down and assumed the relaxed cat position. 

Cayo Quemado

The motor across the lake was lovely being as it was such a sunny day. At Cayo Quemado we anchored on the outside, we prefer the breeze and find we have reasonably good wifi out there.

That afternoon we had a dinghy ride around and spoke to friends anchored inside the bay. In the evening we ventured to Texas Mikes for dinner. His place was very busy with fellow cruisers all leaving within the next few days. It was a full moon evening, a lovely full moon shone down.

After much debate our destination was Belize, the weather had not been what we wanted to sail to the Bay Islands, the forecast told of a converging couple of fronts, winds and possible squalls. So Belize it would be.

The following day was another slack day, doing a few chores and going for a dinghy ride into some of the neighbouring bays. The bird life is incredible, cormorants and egrets by the dozens nesting and roosting on the little mangrove cays. They make quite a sight soaring in during the evening hours. 

On our second full day we went with 3 other couples in Texas Mike’s launcha full speed down river to see our agent Raul and do the check out process.

Livingstone to check out

The river was quite windy and so Livingstone was on the rough side. Mike took us in to a fisherman’s’ dock, right beside a bar. Well, that was quite an experience.

The landing was tough with all the swell and included climbing over lines and a fishing boat. The dock had salted fish laid out to dry in the sun while all around the birds flew or gathered. The Pelicans are real opportunists just waiting for a chance to get any fish available.

All of us had messaged Raul so our paperwork was ready, but it was lunch time till 2:30 and it was just 1:00pm. So off to lunch we went. After lunch we met again at Raul’s and were taken by tuk-tuk to the local clinic for our covid tests. Again the clinic was quite rudimentary, but, hey it suited our needs. We were tested, found negative and had our tests printed for leaving. 

Meanwhile Texas Mike had been awaiting our return by keeping company with the fishermen in the bar. He was well oiled, quite tanked, I think we all wondered about his ability to get us back.

Clambering over the docks and fishing boat back to Mike’s launcha my new hat blew off. I was so upset as I could see it floating away under the docks, but nobody could reach it. Mike was at first not able/willing to go for it with the launcha, he was sounding off a local for some reason, but agreed to let John off at an adjoining dock where a local gave him a broom handle to scoop it out with. I was very grateful and praised Mike for his “skill” at retrieving my hat. He was well pleased! Full speed up river we zoomed.

Next morning we set off at 6:30 to motor

down river through the gorge to the mouth of the Rio Dulce. 

Traveling down the Rio Dulce, which means Sweet River, really is an amazing journey. We left Cayo Quemado at 6:30am. It was still misty and the day had nearly been awake for an hour.

The river winds back and forth with steep forested canyon walls on either side. The bird life is phenomenal, there are cormorants, laughing gulls, egrets, pelicans and forest birds swooping, feeding, squeaking all around. For the first time even I saw white egrets land and sit on the water.

This is something I really didn’t think they did as they are wading birds.

We could hear the cicadas and other insects making a ruckus in the jungle growth. I also saw vultures feasting on a large corpse of something amongst the boulders and growth at the river side. Soon enough we were at the mouth of the river and faced the dreaded bar.

Tres Puntas

Ahead of us were Rainbow’s End and Tomorrow’s Dawn, neither of these boats usually have a problem with depth. And as it was the spring high of a full moon we knew we had a good chance of crossing. To be honest it was our easiest ever crossing, we had a clear 6 inches underneath us. Off to Tres Puntas we headed for the rest of the day and night.

Along the way John had our rod out just in case there was a fish looking to be caught. Sure enough ziiinnnng! The rod rang out and in John brought a very large fish which we found out was an African Pompano of about 20lbs! It was so huge it fed 4 couples on the 4 boats plus we had 2 meals and Chico several days worth of fish dinners.

After anchoring we made water, (our tanks were empty for crossing the bar). Plus we did a dinghy trip along the shoreline. There are a few folks living along this lonely shoreline. It must be a very quiet, solitary life as they are so cut off from everywhere.

Up at 5:00am we set off for either Punta Gorda or Placencia to check in. At that stage we all had decided to see what the seas and winds gave us once we left the protection of Tres Puntas.

Punta Gorda

The seas were between 4 – 6 feet and the wind was gusting up to 15 knots, whereas it had been predicted to be seas of 2 – 3ft and winds of 5 – 10 knots. Our inclination was to beat it up to Placencia, but Tomorrow’s Dawn who had more experience with Punta Gorda said Punta Gorda would be semi protected and doable. So Punta Gorda it was……arriving there we found quite a good roll going on, but we anchored and managed to drop the dinghy, get in it and head ashore.

The dinghy dock was/is very rustic, basically not ideal, made of wood and quite damaged, but again we managed to tie off Latitude’s dinghy which was secured to the dock. Now there were 4 boats for the officials to process, but we were essentially some of the first boats they had dealt with since the beginning of covid.

They were ” ready” for us as they had received our arrival notice and plans, but nobody seemed very sure of what they were doing…. We had to wait at the dock while they processed 1 boat at a time. The first officials were the health folks, they essentially asked health questions, plus we filled in their forms with all our info and the boats info. The second station was inside where we dealt with customs and agriculture.

Here we had many more forms, basically asking the same or other non applicable questions, plus needing $20 Belize. Much of the info they required referred to ships perhaps? Thirdly we went to the immigration booth, again many forms, repetitious questions many of which do not apply to sailboats, asking for another $20Belize. Forth and final stop was Port Authority, yes, more forms, silly questions and this time big money. The fee was $442 Belize for a month’s stay. Overall a total of $482 Belize…. 

We were off, heading to New Haven for the night. The ride to New Haven was mainly into the wind which was increasing up to 20 plus knots and seas that were getting nasty. However we made it into the Belizean Cays where there was some shelter from the winds and seas along the way.

New Haven

New Haven is a huge bay that is very sheltered however with the winds that were blowing there was a chop running through the bay. We anchored up and enjoyed an evening at anchor. 

We stayed through the next day as the wind was still up and there were showers about. Again just enjoying being at anchor. New Haven used to have a small settlement many years previous, a man called Hard Luck Charles had a small enterprise which he set up out of the bay, but today there’s very little evidence of him ever being there, just the remains of his house and such.

John and I dinghied around the bay and into the next bay just enjoying the ride. The parks men stopped by to collect money. Normally folks over 65 do not pay, but these men said it did not apply to their park. I was very skeptical of their demands, but we handed over the 10Belize per person per day payment.

Off to Placencia

Off to Placencia we headed at 6:30 the following day. The winds had settled down some and we hoped to take advantage of the lee shore. The trip was about 4 hours and just towards the end the wind started to rise again. By the time we reached Placencia Harbour it was again gusting to 25knots.

The Harbour was our first choice of anchorage, but it was just too rough and windy so into Placencia Lagoon we went where it was much more settled. 

The following days in Placencia were basically back to our old regime of the previous year, walk and enjoy the scenery. Looking through the various little shops for odds and ends.

Enjoying ice creams at Tooty Fruity, buying excellent take out meals from our favourite eateries, visiting the veggie stand and just enjoying the peaceful little village.

Meanwhile the winds slowly wound down, the showers abated and finally we went out to the outer anchorage where we could enjoy swimming. 

Our friends had a fun potluck which was a catch up time for everyone.

Yollis was having her regular Sunday barbecue, which was combined with a Birthday celebration for Michael. Yes, just like back to last years normal for us.

With the new day comes new strength and new thoughts. – Eleanor Roosevelt

I may not be able to live in perfect serenity. But I can ask the question: What will I what will you, make of the gift of this hour, this day? How will we write the next lines of our lives? – Deborah Landau

 

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Do we leave and where shall we go???

We are nearly at the end of March, any other year, we would be having plenty of new experiences to share. But it is March 2021 and we are still in the Rio Dulce, however, we think, finally, we are nearly ready to leave…. 

Our plans, which did change radically, several times, are now, to head to Belize and then Roatan. We have had to seek entry permits from the authorities for Belize and an agent to represent us in Roatan. Gone are the days of just arriving, we can’t just arrive anywhere. For Belize we had to apply to their Port Authority, await permission which came in the form of a certificate. We had to get an agent for Roatan, he then had to apply for our entry several weeks ahead, and we awaited permission. 

To depart

To leave the Rio Dulce it is always necessary to have a high enough tide to get over the bar at the entrance to the river. Otherwise you have to be hauled over by another boat. We are not really deep drafted, drawing just under 6 foot, but we still need the tides that come with the full moon. Therefore we had to await the end of this month.

Then timing is everything as we can’t just sail off, as the weather has to be favorable for a passage to Roatan. Everything was arranged, Roatan it was to be, but John sees the predicted weather. Winds would be right on the nose blowing at 25+ knots. It would be terriblely  uncomfortable and Aeeshah would get beaten, not to mention Chico and Jen would be distressed. So, plans were changed:

Now the plan is….

Belize it will now be. We anticipate going to Livingstone checking out late on the 29th, Raul our agent there will take us for our PCR tests, which they do even in Livinstone. Then hopefully over the bar at 9:15 we will head to Tres Puntas to spend the day making water. Up before light on the 31st to head to Punta Gorda to check in. 

This month has been very quiet. 

We met with friends for a few lovely lunches and dinners. Well one lunch had a surprise at the end as I found a small roach under my fries. Yep, not a nice, guess I will not be eating there again. 

At Los Amandes we had wonderful fish and chips on the traditional Friday lunchtime. And at a German restaurant Pirisheros, we enjoyed a wonderful German dish for dinner.

“Friends of the Rio Dulce”

John help to make desks and chairs for our Catamaran charity, “Friends of the Rio Dulce”, here is the link:

The main doers and shakers are Steve, our dock master, Tuddy and Muriel a couple off of another  cruising sailboat.

Those 3 started the charity in response to the dreadful damage caused by the flooding from the Hurricanes. They have appealed for funding and received some, but can always do with more help.

The main “jobs” that they have performed, made, funded, built or backed have been a bridge that was rebuilt, several clean ups of badly damaged schools and the rebuilding of students and teachers desks and chairs. John has helped to cut, sand and varnish the wooden chair and desk parts. 

Walking and enjoying the wonderful surroundings

We have had few walks on the pipeline trail, which is always lovely, but as it has been quite hot some days and very wet other days.

I have walked around Catamaran Island doing different circuits. While on my walks I “nature watch”, looking for birds, insects, spiders really just anything to photograph.

And of course Chico sometimes follows me on my walks around Catamaran. He just loves the place, he’s such a cat that enjoys the good life!

We would also wander around Fronteras exploring the back streets.

The place has such character! Just to walk along the Main Street is an adventure. Sidewalks? What are those? You squeeze between the trucks and the venders just hoping it isn’t a cattle truck next to you. Its sort of a dare one makes with oneself, can I fit between that space? Can I get by before that semi? 

 

Those odds and ends:

The cover on the bow of Aeeshah that I made when we were in Casa Tabano has proved to be a god send. It works remarkably well at keeping the blazing sun off the decks and the torrential rain from going in open hatches. 

Of course we have been emptying our bodgaga of all our bits and pieces. We had thought we were headed out for Panama, so we had taken our bikes in to be serviced at the local repair bike shop. They did an amazing job on both bikes. John’s especially looks brand new.

Now we are all loaded stocked and ready to leave for Belize for a month and then Roatan for 2 – 3 months. 

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/speShq1f9c7MevGCA

We have been back in Guatamala for  just over 3 weeks now. In that time we have made great strides towards getting the boat ready to leave the Rio Dulce.

Leaving Ram Marina

Our first week back saw us readying Aeeshah to go  back in the water. The finishing touches were completed to the rudder bearing/stock by Caesar our welder. John finished putting most of the hardware onto the mast and boom. I unpacked, cleaned and sorted the inside all over again.

We splashed on the Tuesday February 2nd and were tied to Ram’s dock for the night to check all the systems. Surprisingly after nearly 7 months out of the water there were no issues, everything ran well.

On the Wednesday morning our mast was very, carefully lowered into Aeeshah. The stays were temporarily attached to their positions and we finally set off from Ram.

I must say that Ram Marina did an absolute magnificent job with the work done to Aeeshah. They are the best!!

Off to Cayo Quemado, Tom the rigger’s workshop

Our next stop was down river across the lake at Cayo Quemado, Tom the rigger’s workshop. We anchored outside of the bay for the night. 

The scenery being as stunning as always. The cormorants and egrets were busy nesting on the island behind and we could hear their chatter late into the evening. That evening we visited Mike’s for dinner. It was a very pleasant evening out at anchor.

Tom requested we be dockside of his place at 7:30, and so we were. He and his assistant had our mast and rig out and off Aeeshah in record time. 

Tom has a very unique method using a mast and rig to remove masts and rigs. When you watch and calculate the weight involved it is actually quite a genius method of manipulating the weighted a full mast. 

The mast was laid across the workshop and the roller furlar laid next to it. For the rest of the day they worked away doing their magic. The two of them are like a well oiled machine, hardly a word was spoken, great music played and they harmoniously labour to complete an almost completely new rig of standing and running rigging. So by the later afternoon the job was completed. 

Next morning Aeeshah’s mast was reinstalled and Tom and his worker attached all the rigging.

Tom made us a new mast boot using an old tire inner tube and sewing up a blue cover. By noon we were back out of the bay again anchoring on the outside.

Bright and early we left Cayo Quemado and headed back up the rio where we anchored out in front of Catamaran Marina. 

Chico rejoins us

We then sped ashore to Gillian’s Casa to get our Chico. As soon as we arrived he spoke and came over as if to say, “ok, I’m ready to go home now”. We were very grateful to Gillian for caring for Chico while we were away. Back at the boat he behaved as if he had never left. 

Into Catamaran Marina we went the following morning. Just after we were dockside Chico was down the docks and away to walk the familiar island home he has enjoyed for many past years. 

Back to our usual rhythm of life:

Since being back at Catamaran we have slipped back into old habits. We walk the old pipeline trail every other day. Often we have the company of Derick and Carol.

Along the trail we see many of the old faces, the children are bigger, but much is the same. Pigs and dogs roaming with the chickens, children playing outside their homes, ladies sweeping, cleaning and washing, men off to the fields. Life is as normal. 

Catamaran itself is very quiet. There are a few folks living on their boats, but many slips are empty and most boats are closed and abandoned. We can go full days without really speaking to anyone else.

John has been able to “play” with his drone at the tennis court. And I still enjoy walking around the wonderful grounds.

In town….Fronteras, life is as usual, bustling, busy, buying, selling, hustling, some folks are masked, most aren’t. We stay masked, the risk is real and great even if the numbers are low. 

The few of us still at Catamaran and the few still connected to the marina, went out for a very nice dinner at Vista Linda. It was a fun evening and good to catch up with friends. 

On Sundays we have been playing Mexican Train dominoes with a few others. We have the main sail back on Aeeshah and are emptying our bodega of our possessions. Slowly, slowly we are getting close to the time to leave.

“Change is the essence of life.”—  Anatole France

“A single day is enough to make us a little larger “-  Paul Klee

 

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Into January we found ourselves deciding to stay a few weeks longer in Bermuda. We still had much to sort out at our home and we wanted to spend more time with family. 

Walks were wonderful!

 Our walks continued. John and I would set off from our house with Winter for the beach walks and along the dunes. Ethan too would come sometimes. 

We had our granddaughter May for a day before she started big school. Yes, already starting real school…..

Southshore beach walks: Longbay, Horseshoe Bay, Jobson’s cove, Stonehole and others 

Heading out with May we decided on a long walk, Ethan and Winter came along.

May is always full of energy, so this was a 2 hour walk where we really explored every cove between Warwick Longbay and Horseshoe bay.

It was a cooler, lovely, day for a walk. Later that day John also took May to the playground. She has abundant energy!

Devonshire Bay to Arial Sands

We met up with Gavin, Katie, Lily and Eve for a walk along the shoreline at Devonshire Bay near their home. It was fun visiting an area that I hadn’t seen for many years, when we last lived in that area of Bermuda.

The girls just love exploring and climbing the cliffs. I admit I really found their cliff climbing a bit nerve wracking, after all Eve is only 3, but they are able rock climbers. 

Afterwards, on our way back to Gavin’s we saw fishermen cleaning their catch at Devonshire Bay. One was a Lion-fish spear fisherman.

He was part of a group that weekly hunt Lion-fish. They then carefully remove their poisonous fins, double wrap them and dispose them to be burnt…..the poisonous fins are he told us they are still poisonous for up to 2 days. They clean the Lion-fish meaty fillets for eating. 

Spittal Pond

Another day we went with May, Ethan and Winter, and met Gavin, Lily and Eve at Spittal Pond for a hike around the reserve. I have always enjoyed Spittal Pond as it is a great mix of coastline, cliffs, pond and woodland trails. 

We walked by the Checkerboard area. This is a natural limestone formation along the shoreline where the rocks have naturally eroded into a checkerboard pattern. From there we trekked up to the cliff top where we looked at the entrance to the cave where escaped slaves had hidden during slavery times. The cave is called Jeffery’s hole/cave. The 3 young ladies were itching to climb down inside, but not today they were told. 

Further up the cliffs we viewed Portuguese Rock, (when I was young it was Spanish Rock). This has an engraving that dates back to pre colonial times when the first folks to visit left an engraving, now recognised as Portuguese pre-colonials, from the time of the great explorers. 

Downhill we trooped looking at the birds around the ponds and finally following the trail through the wooded area back to the car park. 

Ferry Reach park/reserve

We had an excellent walk on the Sunday before we flew back. John and I had to go for our PCR covid test in St Georges to apply for our travel visa. We met up with Gavin, Katie, Lily and Eve at Ferry Reach beforehand.

Ferry Reach is a very large parkland/reserve. It was a very windy, cool day. Ferry Reach is on the north shore of Bermuda and the winter winds blow in from the north, the winds were blasting and the seas were throwing up salt spray. We walked the trails around the furthest shoreline and to the little island near where the ferries crossed in the days before the bridge.

Up we trooped to Marlow Tower and down to the magazine below. Unfortunately the ruins need to be restored as they are crumbling in areas.

We passed the beach where whalers used to flay the whales and rounded uphill to a yellow fever cemetery dating back to the 1800s. Again it was an excellent walk. 

Next we headed to our covid appointment. There we found dozens of others awaiting the travel tests for incoming and exiting folks.

The boring everyday…..

For a good part of the time John and I were busy doing maintenance, making arrangements for work to be carried out on the house, having Doctor appointments and many meetings with folks of all types – all the boring necessary stuff.

And we decided to put a new kitchen in the upstairs part of our house. This of course took up several days. Dismantaling, tearing out the old, meeting and organising with the kitchen designer. Selecting tiles, kitchen cabinetry new appliances etc. Plus setting up and starting with the tiler, the plumber etc…..

Before we knew it we were headed again to the airport to fly back to Aeeshah in the Rio Dulce.

For our return we had a PCR covid test, had to submit it to get a Guatemalan travel visa. (Nothing was needed for the USA). We flew from Bermuda, overnighted end in Atlanta, flew out early arriving in Guatemala at 12:15

we were out of the airport within 15 minutes and into our drivers car for the drive back. By 7:00pm we were back on Aeeshah, exhausted, but very happy to be back.

“It seems to me we can never give up longing and wishing while we are thoroughly alive. There are certain things we feel to be beautiful and good, and we must hunger after them.”— George Eliot

Sent from my iPad

 

 

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Traveling back to Bermuda

Traveling back to Bermuda was naturally complicated due to covid. We needed to get a PCR test no more than 7 days ahead of the day of travel, but could only submit it 3 days before. As there weren’t any available in the Rio we traveled to Guat city, easily got our test with a negative result.

The test was submitted and we were granted our travel permission. Meanwhile we spent time around the city picking up odds and ends for family at home. 

Our flight home was in two legs – the first flight in the early afternoon was to Atlanta. There we spent the night at the airport Raddison. The next day we were homeward bound. I must say spending full days with masks on is tiresome, but doable. 

Once in Bermuda we were put through the check in process after being questioned about our covid tests. We had a yellow band attached to our right wrists. This warned that we were travellers with 14 days of security. It also warned that to remove the band could mean a hefty fine or imprisonment.

Next after baggage claim we were tested in a tented area just off the airport arrivals. Everybody was very professional and obviously well trained.

Our first 4 days we had to stay within our property and away from everyone. We waved to family from our fence line, and exchanged greetings. If we needed anything we just asked our daughter and she left it in the laundry area for us.

The 4 days passed fairly quickly. On day 4 we went for our next covid test. This took place in Hamilton at the old Perrot Post office. When we arrived there was quite a line, all socially distance on premarked circles.

We moved forward steadily until we were inside. There we had to pass hold our IDs up to a clear screen where the official on the other side then produced our info sheet. This we then passed to the person that tested us. The whole process was very efficiently and professionally done, everyone fully clothed in protective gear.

We then had to return home and await our results, which arrived by email that evening – negative. 

For the next 4 days we were allowed to go to the store, go for walks and such, but we were not allowed within close proximity to other folks. Again, it really wasn’t that restrictive as we could go for lovely walks and get on with all we had to do.

Next was our day 8 testing. Again off to the Perrot Post office and the same process. Once again we were negative, however now we could mix with our family or friends, within our “bubble”.

Life became more or less normal for us as we just abided by the same regulations as everyone else. We visited with our son, Gavin and caught up on everything. We spent time with our daughters, grandchildren and life per normal.

Our last test was on day 14, at which time we could remove our yellow bands. Everyone wears masks while out and about and there is social distancing everywhere, but that’s normal now.

Wonderful walks along the beaches and dune/parkland

We took wonderful walks along the beaches and dune/parkland near our home. Many days our grandson Ethan came along with Winter our daughters dog.

Sometimes our daughters Kate and/or Chrissie with their children May and Quest joined us. And then some days we went on our own. 

One walk was to go along the Tribe road #7 near our house, cross Southshore road and head left above Longbay Beach on the cliffs/dunes.

Then cut down to Longbay beach and walk back the length of it. That way we could allow Winter to run free as there was nobody around.

Another excellent walk was with Ethan and Winter. We continued from Longbay Parkland to Astwood park and cove.

We walked the cliff tops above a hidden beach, then climbed down an old rough path to the beach. This is the beach where many years ago the film The Deep was filmed.

The old elevator shaft and such that was used is now nonexistent. Walking the beach we saw that the recent hurricanes had really smashed the cliffs causing quite a bit of damage, in fact the cliff top is not really safe having been undercut.

From this hidden bay we continued along the shoreline and beach as far a Southside another beach/parkland. Across the Southshore Road we hiked uphill, cutting down to the old railway right of way along it back home.

Other top walks were with our daughters and their children, Ethan and Winter following the pathways of the dunes/ parkland behind the coves, Stone-hole, Jobsons etc all the way to Horseshoe Bay while stopping along the way to explore the beaches, hillsides, rocks, cliffs and pathways. We are very fortunate to live so close to such a wonderful part of Bermuda.

Then there horses to feed, meals to be cooked, chores we needed to attend to, maintenance, etc….

Christmas Day, Boxing Day

Christmas preparations, cooking and shopping took up parts of my days. Again this year I made mince pies. Chrissie made sausage rolls. We both prepared the feast for Boxing Day. We had Christmas Eve at home, Christmas morning for the first part was upstairs in Chrissie’s exchanging gifts.

We all then drove to Kate’s where we again exchanged gifts and enjoyed time together. The afternoon found us all at our son,

Gavin’s house where we exchanged gifts, enjoyed being together and had an excellent Christmas dinner together.

After dinner the adult kids and grandchildren had fun with Katie’s karaoke “machine”. Katie loves to sing and she is very good. Everyone else was entertaining to watch and listen to, they had a blast. Quest was quite the star!

Unfortunately due to a restriction on the amount of people that can gather our eldest 2 grandchildren could not be there, but they had a wonderful time at their Mom’s house. Rhianna came to visit after Christmas and we enjoyed her visit.

Boxing Day we hosted the family upstairs at our home. With so many young ones it was a very busy, noisy but fun evening. Chrissie and I had done all the cooking, well not the cassava pie…. 

Before we knew it Christmas was all over and New Years was not even an occasion this year. However we ordered a wonderful Indian meal! 

 

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The words to describe November are “wet, rain, rain rain, rising waters, muddy, smelly, tedious”. On the bright side we did have some sunny days and many happy moments. 

Eta

It all started on November 3rd, with hurricane Eta a cat 4 hurricane.

She brought us incredibly rains for over 3 days. The country was put into a state of emergency, people were missing, massive landslides took out rows of homes, all the bridges were washed away, the roads were not passable, and the rivers rose for over a week, flooding everything near them.

Our little casa which was right on the side of the river was just inches from being flooded when finally the water stopped rising. The waters were rushing, full of debris and quite smelly.

There ended up being nowhere to walk outside as all of the walkways were underwater plus as they are wooden they were very slippery. We could still get the dinghy under the bridge built in the dock and so brought it right up to our door. 

Evening cruise to Lake Isobel

The next week, we went on an evening cruise to Lake Isobel on Taylor’s catamaran Cat Tails. Gordon and Gillian gave us a ride over to Catamaran Marina in their launcha.

Before going to Cat Tails we cruised up to Casa Tabano to see how it was fairing in all the high water. It still had several inches before it would have flooded.

The cruise was a fun evening, and a welcome break. We had all taken along drinks and snacks  which were enjoyed while we sat and chatted enjoying the hazy sunset. 

Walks were limited

We managed a few walks one of which was on my birthday. Pam and Don came along with us, as everywhere was wet and mucky, we chose a route that circled through Fronteras, under the bridge, up over the top of the bridge and back down through Fronteras.

This was followed by lunch at Sun Dog an eatery on the shore of the rio. After a great lunch we went back to Monkey Bay Marina for a stroll around and popped over to Catamaran to visit with friends 

Another Sunday, which was another of our few dry days, John and I walked from Ram Marina, across the bridge and all the way to the Castillo, where we hired a launcha to deliver us back to Ram.

It was a lovely walk, not very hot but sunny. I always manage to see lovely sights, the farmland, the birds, flowers along the way.

Our launcha ride was fun. Our driver was very sweet, he treated us like real tourists, slowing and stopping for photos, pointing out different sites, explaining in Spanish all about our route. John didn’t want anyone to see us, he felt embarrassed acting like a tourist in our own backyard so to speak. 

Aeeshah boatwork

Our life continued as per normal, the river started to recede: During this time I would go with John in the mornings to Aeeshah, do boat-work and then pass the afternoons sewing or such in the casa. John was still in the process of putting the mast and boom back together again.

He worked with Saul to finish the rudder fiber glassing. Which was finally completed and is an amazing piece of craftsmanship. John also oversaw the bottom of the boat being painted. First the water line was raised by 4 inches then painted, but before the last coat could be applied we had our second category 4 hurricane Iota. 

However at the very end of the month the bottom was finally completed. The carpenter Walter came and made us a wonderful back to our bed. The new shaft came all the way up through the very top of our bed. He made a false headboard – It looks wonderful!

Iota

2 weeks after Eta we had Iota, which was actually a category 5 hurricane when she first slammed into Central America. Its winds reaching 250km/h. By the time she reach the Guatemala and the Rio Dulce area she was of tropical storm strength, bringing massive rains.

Rain like nobody can imagine, for days it rained non stop. Now, the river had only just gone down about 12 – 14 inches from its record breaking flood waters due to Eta. So, in no time the river was rising, rising rising. We became really concerned, on the second evening, we had just inches left before the water would be coming in the door.   news link: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/04/world/americas/guatemala-hurricanes-mudslide-migration.html 

The fellows at Punta Bonito came and raised the fridge and stove onto concrete blocks. I took everything off the floor and put it all on the stools or tables just leaving things like Chico dirt crate which needn’t be moved – so I thought. 

Our power went off, we were relying on headlamps, and it was deep, deep, dark, black. Off to bed we went, at 2:00am I stepped out of bed and into water which was a good 2 inches deep. OMG I was not impressed! I splashed off to the bathroom, climbed back into bed with a towel for my wet feet and told John I really wasn’t happy, I suggested we should head out for the boat at Ram. He said, to relax, he was sure everything was fine, that he was tired and needed the sleep. 

Well, I was awake for the rest of the night. By 4:00am the water was about 4 inches deep inside our Casa, Chico was between us, looking quite concerned. 

At 6:00am I couldn’t handle it any more, I woke John and said we need to get out of here. The water was about 6 inches deep inside even Chico’s litter crate was floating around inside, yes, there was even a current inside!! 

The escape from flood waters

Now it is not easy to pack up essentials in the dark, with a headlamp while wading in water and trying to keep everything dry. John went and bailed the dinghy cause it had been raining non stop so it was full of water. I got all the electronics into a backpack inside trash bags, got Chico’s carrier ready, and put as many valuables in a bag. We intended to take them first then return for the rest. Meanwhile the fellow – Lobes – who is part owner and in charge of Punta Bonito came. He was so very sad, didn’t know what to say or do, he was loosing his place but also felt for us too. 

Just getting to the dinghy was very difficult, because you could not see where the walkway and docking began or ended, you had to just try to stay between where the posts stuck up a bit out of the water. We left with Chico and the main valuables in the pouring rain just as it was getting daylight. Over to Ram we rode dodging the debris in the swirling river flood waters. At Ram the water had also make its way over the gas station docks. We tied off the dock and hurried to Aeeshah. We were all soaked Chico included. Poor guy didn’t have his litter crate, but I set him up with water and food. We had a quick cup of tea and returned to the casa. 

The water was even higher and anything that had been on the bottom shelves was now floating, tinned cat food included. There was a distinct odour of sewage. The water held all kind of debris. I worked as rapidly as was possible to fill bags with our clothes etc. John then put the bags in trash bags and loaded them into the dinghy.

He went off with the next load and left me to continue. It was still quite dark inside the casa as the heavy clouds and tree cover let little light inside, but by the light of a headlamp I managed to stuff everything into bags and then trash bags. Gillian arrived from their casa across from us. She and Gordon were also trying to save all of their possessions. They had stored many boat items, cushions, awnings, etc in their casa in preparation for their boat to be hauled. Luckily the men helped them get everything into one of the big catamaran’s docked in front. 

John arrived back from taking the second load, folks had helped him carry/trolley our possessions to the boat. We said goodbye to Gillian and headed to Ram with the last load. 

Our cockpit was filled with everything all inside many trash bags. The only casualty was Chico’s litter crate which suffered a cracked side. We were very fortunate! The locals were not, many lost their homes and all of their possessions. It was a very sad time along the rio. By the end of the day we both realised we had not cleaned our teeth that morning as we had been so frantic to move, and so busy getting everything stowed.

Gillian told me a few days later she had a bad foot infection. It was from walking in the dirty water, fortunately she had antibiotics which controlled the infection. The water was and is absolutely disgusting, but nobody had any choice but to walk in and through the flood waters. 

The river continued to rise, it came to a record breaking height. Never before had it risen to such a level. Everybody tried to help the local population in anyway possible. The area was a disaster zone. Just going for a walk over the bridge some days later the visual was very disturbing. Looking down from the bridge, homes and businesses flooded out by many feet of water. Refugees and flood victims bathing in the dirty river water, there was nowhere else.

A small family truck passes with mama and papa in front and crammed in the back are their girls, a mattress, toys, possessions saved from the flood waters. Below the bridge I hear a cat crying and crying, looking I see a kitty atop a wall with nowhere to go. Until one sees a disaster zone there are no words strong enough to describe ….. But never, never, through all of this did we see or hear the locals give up, complain, moan, shout, show their dispare they just soldiered on making the best of their bad situation. 

Many charities were instrumental in helping. There was a kitchen set up to feed thousands daily, Eric from Los Amantes was the chef. Casa Guatemala went full out getting supplies out to the locals.

They worked tirelessly even after being flooded out of their headquarters. Donations arrived daily, everything from food, blankets, cloths mattresses, as much was needed.

Gillian and Gordon visited and told of how they had secured a very nice casa at Tortugal Marina, on a hill! And they were willing to take Chico. Chico seemed to like his new home and promised to be good.

It was a real strain keeping him in the boat, plus we decided to head home. There was nothing we could do in the Rio, I booked our flights, an Airbnb in Guatemala, and made travel plans. Within a week we had a driver take us to Guatemala City. Along the way we saw just some of the terrible damage from the rushing river waters.

There we had a very nice Airbnb inside the Veranda Suites Hotel.

We visited Blue Medical and had our PCR tests, “negative for covid 19”, sent them off and received our travel documents.

We were homeward bound.

“All we have is all we need. All we need is the awareness of how blessed we really are.”

— Sarah Ban Breathnach

“Making the absolute best of ourselves is not an easy task. It is a pleasurable pursuit…but it requires patience, persistence, and perseverance.”

— Sarah Ban Breathnach

 

Aeeshah refit continued

Photo album link——>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FkuGZUdYM6DhFyFU6

Aeeshah was moved to the outside world and then put on display to all those who were interested in getting their boats recoated, painted and beautified. She was shown to quite a few potential Ram clients. Our friends on N’Aimless are now getting N’Aimless tarted up too.

Meanwhile we have been hard at boat work. 

I had the interior to get back together, cleaned, organised and readied to be lived in again. I must say it was a massive effort. Every nook and cranny, cupboard, shelf, floor, etc had to be washed, cleaned of fibreglass dust, polished and redone. Yes, the boat was sealed off, but that dust literally seeps in through any crack. I found fibreglass dust even inside cupboards! I even cleaned all the brass on board. Phew! I was mightily relieved when that job was finished. Well, I am almost finished, as the aft cabin still needs a final fix up and clean. 

My next challenge was trying to get what was still being stored inside, for example dock lines, rigging, mast parts, stowed so it wasn’t piled in the way of our being able to get around. Finally I was onto the extra chores, little fixes, cockpit cleaning. 

We had Nery come and reattach the vinyl to the ceilings. It had been unattached so the workers could unbolt all the deck fitting – for example rails, stansions, cleats and such. He did a wonderful job, it’s all back perfectly. Nery is also working on a new dinghy cover – chaps for our dinghy.

John had a slight mishap with the dinghy. He was returning with a pizza for dinner, miscalculated the turn into our dinghy corral and tore the side open on a exposed piece of metal. Therefore the dinghy had to go for a repair job which took a week. We had a loaner “dinghy” which was like a tiny tub.

Anyway to avoid further punctures we will dress the dinghy in new chaps. John was mightily relieved to get our fixed dinghy back. The cover should arrive soo.

Refit stage 2

The second biggest job after the gelcoat and painting of the hull was to have the rudder shaft remodified. We already had our welder Caesar making the shaft in his welding workshop. He too is an amazingly knowable fellow.

Why?:

It never was a long, shaft therefore it was not really strong enough for heavy weather sailing at sea.

Our main worker became Saul, who is a fibreglass expert. He was tasked with recreating the rudder shaft – the hole, in Aeeshah for the new rudder shaft.

He started by chiseling and grinding out the old shaft and delrin bushing. While doing this he discovered to his and John’s horror that at the top under the removed fibreglass there was rotten wood. So the job grew…all of the rotten wood extended through the stringers. These are the “arms” which hold the rudder in place. He along with his worker Noel chiseled out all this rot, then using a special technique they epoxied hard wood fitting it expertly into the stringers, completely fixing the entire rudder area. 

Our welder Caesar delivered the newly modified rudder, its stock lengthened by 3 feet of stainless steel round bar, which he had crafted. All of this took over three weeks, but the work is excellent and done to perfection.

The shaft hole was remodelled to be the perfect fit for the new rudder shaft. Everything had to be completely perfect to a thousandth of a inch.

This took much work on Saul’s part. He worked until it was perfected. Admittedly I was getting fed up waiting for the rudder job to be completed. Finally it was judged absolutely perfect!

The cutlas bearing arrived and was put on by the project manager Chris. John cleaned and polished up the propeller plus all the surrounding bits were checked.

The mast foot was made by our welder, it arrived and John was very impressed. John then put it into place ready for our newly redone mast.

John dressed the mast, that is he put everything back on the mast. I helped at one stage, the threading of the electrical wires down the conduit inside the mast.

He normally could only work on it in the afternoons as it was then shaded in that area where it was suspended. Yes, it is still darn hot here, most days temperatures in the 90s.

Our buddies Pam and Don did some varnish work for us. They did a wonderful job on our entrance steps and the cockpit table and cup holder, all of which had been very worn and now look better than new. 

Other activities:

With the still, windless, hot, humid weather we did not walk as much as previously. We did fewer walks over the bridge.

Tijax walk

We took a Sunday off and along with Pam and Don we went to Tijax for a hike. Tijax Hacienda Hotel and Ecolodge has over a 400 acres of trails some of which for a fee we could walk. None of us had hiked in the wilds for many months as we had been not allowed to. 

It was a wonderful day, sunny but not scorching. The trail took us along walkways through the mangroves to the car park where we unlocked the gate to the trails. Across a hanging platform, over marshy grasslands to a slow uphill path which led to the little Museo.

There we read about different plants, animals and fossils.

From there we kept to a trail which took us through the jungle. As always the jungle was lush, green and silent except for the occasional bird and the buzz of mosquitoes.

We had a few challenges from downed trees which we climbed over, as we had missed the detour signs.

Emerging from the jungle we were faced with the rubber plantation and the pathway continuing uphill to the tower – our goal.

At the tower you climb several flights of steps and emerge on the roof to look out over the Rio Dulce to your south, west and east and Belize in the distant north.

We all enjoyed the views for a while and then set off down and along the return path.

This one led us to the suspended canopy bridges that hang around 30 feet above the jungle.

They are quite long and allow you to really see the canopy in its glory.

Back down we hiked to the downhill pathway, over the marshlands, over the mangroves and into the main hotel area. It was an excellent, several hours out enjoying the countryside.

After Tijax we went to Catamaran for a delicious lunch, a wander around and a chat with friends. An excellent day off, the first we had had in nearly a month.

Our other activities have been, grocery shopping, visits to Catamaran, and exploring our new area.

Our new home:

Our Casa sits on the river edge so we can motor right up in our dinghy. It’s a small place, a studio but quite adequate for our needs.

The entire place and all the furniture were made by the fellows who work here. Their craftsmanship is brilliant! I would love to have some of the furniture at home.

Behind where we stay at Punta Bonito there is a tributary. We went along it in the dinghy and found it to be very pretty, amazingly so, as it is just behind Fronteras. 

Chico finds our new place to be a big cage, so he tells me. He literally climbs the walls. Spending his time staring out longingly watching the birds. He watches the humming bird that visits every morning with a passion in his eyes!

He can’t wait to get back to Aeeshah and Catamaran Marina. Hopefully in just a few weeks we will be ready to splash and off to our marina home. 

“It’s in our chasing that dream that we become the people we only dream of.”— Sanya Richards-Ross

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.