Tales from the Rio and house-sitting

 

PHOTO Album—>>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/vhU6xpMHaqDaHVn9A

Tales from the month

Upon our arrival in Guatemala our driver William was there waiting and ready to go, 6 hours later and we were back in Fronteras and over, via Steve’s launcha, to Catamaran Marina and our Aeeshah. Chico was up at the bar, typical social cat that he is….

Life was pretty much back to normal within the first day. Getting Aeeshah sorted and cleaned, grocery shopping, walking around the island and such.

House sitting

We had agreed to care for Vickle and Jim’s dog Flaca and their lovely home while they went to the US for a few weeks. Their place is down river from Catamaran at the end of a tributary.

They have built it from scratch. Everything was transported there by water as there are no roads. There is a tiny airstrip behind the park that is behind their property and a few neighbours.

John’s day

John would leave daily to get to Catamaran early to feed the cats, Ginger and Tuk Tuk and of course our Chico. He would have his morning coffee with the regulars and then get to task on Aeeshah.

His time was spent preparing the cabin’s wood work for revarnishing. 1st, Stripping, sanding and filling the woodwork, which made a big dusty mess. Following was a clean up and then the varnishing of everything.

He finished within 10 days or so, the woodwork looks lovely! He moved on to a few other boat jobs.

Jen’s typical day

Meanwhile my routine………..

consisted of taking Flaca for a walk along the walkway that runs through the area where Vickie and Jim live. We would bird watch, sometimes squirrel hunt,

other times look for butterflies, exotic birds and of course plane spot if one was landing or taking off. 

Next we would have breakfast, I would tidy up and Flaca would sleep. I managed to get all of the sewing repairs completed, plus a new gas tank cover made and alterations to other boat awnings completed. 

Meanwhile I started a new project, scanning old photos. The scanner is a very good photo scanner and as most gadgets nowadays it is complicated, with so many variations and settings that it took me about three days just to figure out the basic software. However I started scanning and have learnt to use the auto settings for now as they bear good results and are easy. My objective is to scan all the old family photos….

John would often return for lunch and then head back to Catamaran for the afternoon returning again in the early evening. I would resume with my projects and head out for a late afternoon,  or early evening stroll with Flaca.

We observed many different birds, Green Parrots, hummingbirds, migrating Orioles, Kiscadees and  so many others, wonderful reflections, odd impressions…… 

On the few days that Chico the ground’s man and Maria the housekeeper came to the house John and I would head out to do our shopping or to visit Catamaran. 

On my second day at Vickie and Jim’s I was asked, along with Chico the ground’s man, to attend to a funeral. A friend of Vickie called Kathie had lost her best friend and he needed to be buried. The launch arrived with Kathie, a little girl and her Dad from the marina where they live, plus the casket with Cotta inside. After some debate an appropriate spot was found, the hole dug and Cotta buried.

One night just after falling asleep we were awakened by a large bang, and then the power died. John went and put on the small generator so the fans would work. The next morning there was a dead possum under one of the utility poles. Poor possum was electrocuted, thus the power outage. By the afternoon a vulture had arrived.

On one of our last days at Flaca’s place we saw a very funny sight. One of the monkeys from the neighbour’s property was walking around as if he owned the place. meanwhile the folks from there were all swimming in the river…..

Steve had a birthday celebration and Zaida was given a baby shower,

Catamaran had a Friends of Rio Dulce River sale of second hand items to raise cash for the many good causes the charity pursues. John helped to set up and sell the goods. Plus we had our first Mexican Train Dominoes game since July.

Those were the few social happenings as many folks are still away.

And before we knew it we were back at Catamaran……

“I don’t have to be perfect. All I have to do is show up and enjoy the messy, imperfect, and beautiful journey of my life. It’s a trip more wonderful than I could have imagined.” 

Kerry Washington

 

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Fern Island camp, hurricane Larry, walks, birthdays in Bermuda

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/K3U5Kuce1iz9X47u6

Fern Island camp 

Camping at Fern Island has been a family tradition since approximately 1985. Back then we would pack up the children, our animals, supplies, tents and food heading off to Fern Island for a few weeks of camp. It was a very rustic camp originally, now there is a toilet, be it a hand pumped toilet. Plus inside has new mattresses on the bed frames, there is a great barbecue and a gas burner stove for cooking. We used to cart out our own barbecue, small camp stove and propane tank.

Gavin, our son, runs/organises the camp these days. John went out on the Thursday to help Gavin mow the grass, set up and prep for us all to arrive.

John and I went out on the Friday, taking our granddaughter May and Grandson Quest with us to stay till Saturday night.

The children were literally bursting with excitement, Gavin Katie, Lily and Eve picked us up at Darrell’s wharf, Chrissie waving goodbye from the dock. She and Quest had just been cleared from nearly a month of quarantine, she was looking forward to a break and he was needing his cousins to play with. 

  • Across to Fern we sped.

Already at Fern were, Audrey, Sean and their 3 girls, Melody and her 2 girls plus 2 friends. To arrive later were Daniel, Stuart and his daughter. Yes, it was a camp of mainly children.

Ours, May, Quest, Eve and Lily were hungry as it was lunch time. After quickly dropping our bags inside we had a pizza lunch.

At Fern, time is spent swimming,

watching the children and chatting/reminiscing…. The time passes quickly, soon it was dinner – platters of sushi.

Evening playtime followed and then bed in a tent.

John and I had 1 tent and facing us we had May and Quest in the other tent. The children were perfectly happy in the tent and fell off to sleep.

Later, I found sleeping on a sleeping bag on the ground to be gruelling! Just dreadful, plus several of the others, including John were still up, chatting and enjoying their drinks, their voices kept me awake too. It was a night that I decided was not to be repeated…and I was itching throughout the night, found out in the morning I had ants crawling on me too, thus the itching. The kids were up at 1st light, John had a heavy head and I was exhausted. 

We enjoyed breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon in a burrito.

The kids were happily fishing, playing games, colouring, and reading stories 

and then it was time to head off down to the dock for more swimming.

Chrissie arrived with Ruben, Kate arrived with Fabio and a friend.

Soon it was time for lunch after which most folks went off on Gavin’s boat to go and do some cliff jumping while we stayed with Chrissie and Kate and their friends.

Once again swimming between the dock and pontoon.

Plus they played with a few jet skis that had been left behind. After hours in the water everyone enjoyed relaxing around the camp, the kids watching iPads and the adults chatting…..

Everyone had a wonderful afternoon! 

Dunes and beaches

John and I enjoy walking along the dunes that are behind the beaches near our home. It’s a beautiful walk. The summer heat does make the walk challenging, but the sea breeze helps to make it more comfortable.

We walk along the dune as far as Horseshoe Bay and then back along the trails above the coves to Warwick Long Bay.

Hurricane Larry 

Came towards the island bringing high seas and raging surf.

We went to Gavin’s home at different times to sea gaze. The property sits on a peninsular by Devonshire Bay and so you get a really good feel for the surf that rolls in. It was vicious, unrelenting surf, crashing into the shore, rolling over the walls, constantly thundering seas.

One gets mesmerised standing and watching so that when a wave crashes close by it surprises you back to the present. Larry kicked up the seas, passed and became a memory.

September is a birthday month 

There was Gavin’s 44th, (unbelievable my little boy is that age); Quest’s 4th, where has time gone? And John’s 69th, damn we are clocking up the years…..

There was a small birthday celebration for Quest’s birthday at Gavin and Katie’s house. The pool is where the grandchildren wanted to be.

The girls, Lily, May and Evie are all excellent swimmers, Quest is learning. Katie had bought a slip and slide.

It was set up on the hillside near the pool. Well, it was a tremendous hit! The girls just went full out slipping and sliding. They would take a full run at the slide, dive down on it and shoot to the bottom.

I could not imagine what would have happened to me if I had tried that….but, Kate, Katie and Gavin had turns too….It really looked uncomfortable for an adult skidding to a stop on the grass at the end.

Everyone had a fun filled afternoon. 

Time to get back to our Aeeshah and Chico

Covid had started to rampage through Bermuda again. The numbers were rapidly rising, getting a leaving test was challenging, but we managed to get our negative PCR and were on our way home to Aeeshah.

“In family life, love is the oil that eases friction, the cement that binds closer together, and the music that brings harmony.” –Friedrich Nietzsche

“Other things may change us, but we start and end with the family.” –Anthony Brandt

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August adventures in Bermuda

 

PHOTO ALBUM >>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/s6yzFsJwrAozKjJ68

Out and about visiting various places

We still had a few days to stay at Gavin’s place, the girls were off with Edna, Gavin and Katie were working and as Chrissie and Quest were in quarantine we had the use of her car and free time, which is rare for us.

Hog Bay Park

Our first outing was to Hog Bay Park. At Hog Bay Park there are 32 acres of quiet, unspoiled rural land. A network of trails lead around the park where were able to follow the trails past agricultural fields,

woodlands, a lime kiln, and down the steep hillside to a lovely shoreline.

Along the shoreline the seas were a beautiful, turquoise, we then climbed upward again, back towards the fennel lined over grown trails.

Why the name “Hog Bay”? As the story goes, mariners in the 17th century dropped hogs off in this area in the hope that they’d provide a perpetual source of bacon and ham for sailors shipwrecked on Bermuda’s treacherous coral reefs. The hogs are long gone and Hog Bay, (where hogs were particularly plentiful), is now called Pilchard Bay.

We found the trails to be very over grown, but this had benefits as there were butterflies, bees and insects everywhere. I wondered if the farmer was letting the pathways by the fields go wild, to encourage pollination for the crops grown near them so they are then “organic”.

West end Dockyard and Whale Bay

We took our Granddaughter May out with us on the following day of wandering about. Our first destination was Dockyard.

Royal Naval Dockyard

“Built by Royal decree to defend British superiority on the seas, the Royal Naval Dockyard is today a resplendent place of discovery. Within the walls of this nineteenth century fortress, where troops once marched, there are now lawns, flower lined lanes, fine dining and a quaint Clocktower Mall. Where once all was war readiness, now exists an invitation to adventure. Cruise ships dock, visitors swim with dolphins, snorkel at theSnorkel Park, explore the historic National Museum of Bermuda.”

We just walked about looking at the sailboats, the Spirit of Bermuda, which the Bermuda Sloop Foundation created as a purpose-built sail training vessel that now evokes the seagoing traditions of Bermuda while providing a safe, effective, and comfortable platform for Bermudian youth.

We ended up at a very nice eatery, the Bonefish Bar and Grill having a delicious lunch of fish sandwiches. Well we thought so, but May was just interested in coloring, I think she was past being hungry, plus we had earlier given her a doughnut.

Next stop was Whale Bay Fort

Bermuda is home to many old British forts, Whale Bay Fort & Battery overlooking West Whale Bay Beach was Originally built in the mid-1700s.

The fortress once had powerful, 12-ton cannons to protect the island from invaders. The cannons are long gone, but you can still explore the fort and battery, including sturdy stone walls, troop barracks and underground storage rooms. 

We parked up and ascended the hill to the fort. Here we explored the walls, grounds and tunnels. The view was lovely. May was impatient to swim, so we soon went down to change and walk to the beach. 

Whale Beach normally offers a calm, scenic escape with craggy cliffs surrounding a stretch of Bermuda’s classic pink sand. However on that day there was a tropical storm Henri lurking off shore this meant there was a surf running. We all had a lovely swim, May especially enjoying the big surf with Papa. 

Whale Bay beach got its name as it was near the island’s whaling grounds in the 18th century. Whaling is long gone from Bermuda and the whales themselves are returning each spring, to Bermuda. I swam too, the water was as wonderful as ever.

Back at Gavin’s place the surf was powering ashore, salt spray filled the air, and the wind was blowing steadily as Henri circled around Bermuda.

Across the bay we could spy some young fellows “surfing” attempting to ride the surf. Rather dangerous as those seas can take the strongest down.

By the morning the weather was flattening out and John and I set out for yet another day of adventure.

Our first stop was Flatts.  

Flatts was a sleepy fishing village located in Hamilton Parish halfway between Hamilton City and the town of St. George, basically it is a through way now. There are beautiful pastel colored houses, regal palm trees, and lovely turquoise waters.

Under Flatts bridge the waters of Harrington Sound rush to the sea. Harrington Sound itself is almost entirely surrounded by the Bermuda mainland, and is only open to the sea at this inlet. The water is fast moving, carrying water in and out from the Harrington Sound as the tide ebbs and flows.

John and I went for a look under the bridge, often rays can be see in these waters.

We could see the bright red of the sponge growing along the rocks, but no rays that day. (You can find more than 100 types of sponge in the waters of Harrington Sound).

St David’s

Next stop was the very eastern end of Bermuda. We hadn’t visited St David’s for many years and I had a real hankering for a visit. This is the eastern most edge of Bermuda, known as St David’s Head which comprises of Great Head and Little Head Parks. 

The entire area spans across some 24 aces. David’s Battery is also found here. It was built in 1910 and went through several transformations from a small gun platform to a formidable fort that was built to defend the Narrows Channel that leads to St. George’s Harbor. 

There are still two 9.2 inch and two 6 inch caliber Breech Loader guns mounted in the battery. The guns were constructed in UK and the largest ever mounted in Bermuda. They had a range of 7 miles and could easily stop enemy ships coming close to Bermuda back in the day. However, they never had to be fired against any enemy attacks. In fact, the sound from such gunfire was so loud that the neighboring residents complained and the guns were seldom fired even for practice drills.

We really enjoyed walking through the park, looking at the guns, and over the cliff at the Head.

We followed the overgrown pathway down the cliff face to the small lookout platform below, there the seas were just so wild and beautiful. 

Back at the top we looked at the Figurehead Memorial, a lifeboat monument that stands to commemorate all the Bermudians lost at sea.

As we were in the area we drove to the St David’s lighthouse. This Lighthouse stands on the highest point on the Eastern tip of the island standing 208 feet above the sea level.

It sends its beam out 20 miles to sea. It was built in 1879 mainly to provide signals to the ships so that they didn’t come too close to the hidden reefs in the Bermuda waters. And to this day it serves as a beacon for mariners.

Clearwater and Cooper’s Island

An incredibly beautiful area of Bermuda is Clearwater and Cooper’s Island. This was our next stop. The area is famous for its quiet beaches and walking trails.

Clearwater is the first of these beaches. It has good public facilities, a restaurant and playground. 

Next to Clearwater beach is Turtle Bay Beach. This is where we parked the car. This beach has a wonderful smaller stretch of sands with interesting rock formations fringing. As you look out from the shore, you will see dark patches of turtle grass on the sea bed which provide feeding grounds for turtles and fish.

This is not a natural beach though. It is an artificial manmade beach which was created at the time of land reclamation in the mid 1900s. The land reclamation was done to build the nearby U.S Naval Air Station which was operational until 1995.The entire Cooper’s Island was then a restricted area. After the U.S closed its base, it was opened up to the public.

We walked down along Cooper’s Island Road where the beautiful Long Bay is found, we had a 250 meters beach all to ourselves. The scenery is just stunning and on this day it was spectacular.

The next beaches located close by are Annie’s Bay, Well Bay, Fort Hill Bay and Soldier Bay.

They all are picturesque beaches, which we visited after an easy stroll along the old roadway and adjoining pathways.

At the very end of the pathway you can gaze out to sea, the view never grows old, it is always awesome!

Most of these beaches are excellent for snorkeling, but that would have to be saved for another time.

As we were leaving we passed the NASA Tracking Station, it is really all that is left of the Americans in Bermuda and is said to be:

“The NASA Tracking Station at Cooper’s Island, Bermuda is a critical component of NASA’s monitoring of current and future missions, including the use of launch vehicles, which are designed to deliver satellites and rockets into orbit and supplies to the International Space Station.” Of course this area is restricted.

By this time it was early afternoon and we both were  very hungry, so it was off to St Georges.

By this time it was early afternoon and we both were  very hungry, so it was off to St Georges.

Once there we bought food from the deli, sat on a shaded bench in the town square and enjoyed our picnic lunch.

Devonshire with May

May came to Gavin’s for a morning, so we took a walk to Devonshire Bay. Of course we took Amy too. Devonshire Bay has a sheltered beach area, a slipway for the fishermen, a park and an old fort. This fort was built by the British in the 1750s. The park has been renamed Mary Prince Park after Mary Prince, the enslaved Bermudian who gained her freedom, wrote a book and became a hero of the abolitionist movement in Britain.

Our walk was peaceful and quiet under the shade trees. The views through the trees was lovely. Then May wanted to walk Amy…..and Amy decided to walk May.

It was decided that May would jog back instead.

We had a wonderful few days out and about in Bermuda.

“People often say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I say that the most liberating thing about beauty is realizing that you are the beholder.”

— Salma Hayek

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Last week on the Rio and Guatemala – first weeks in Bermuda

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ykb5yhJw3HzzXmdv8

Our last week in Rio Dulce and Guatemala was quite hectic. I did the usual pre trip preparations making sure all was readied on Aeeshah and for Chico. Plus getting all the online applications for travel arrangements sorted, confirming what used to be simple easy trip plans and such. 

John went with Steve, Muriel, Tutty and the rest of the team on a Friend’s of Rio Dulce mission. They were to tear down and build a home for grandparents and the three young children in their care. He returned tired, filthy but very happy to have been able to help.

I also enjoyed my continued walks around Catamaran Marina, discovering that cormorants have blue eyes.

In the city

Our drive into the city was as usual with Otti tours, William being our driver and it was a quick, easy drive. Straight after arriving at our hotel we went to Blue Medical where we had our PCR tests for travel. Thank goodness the results arrived about 4 hours later. I then submitted them to the Bermuda Travel Authority for our travel permits.

To travel home we had to have applied with a clear PCR test no more than 3 days before and no less than 24 hours before. This makes the timing of traveling quite challenging. John received his within 6 hours, but mine didn’t arrive until nearly 24 hour later. Basically we were at Guatemala Airport on our way to Atlanta before I finally received my Travel permit! 

Atlanta airport was an unbelievable mess of humanity. They had shut one terminal so we had to walk to another, along with hundreds of others, queuing up in corridors, then packed into a large arrivals hall with hundreds of folks. The USA really doesn’t get the whole idea of how contagious covid is….. We are vaccinated, but I bet many others there weren’t and there were many not wearing their masks over their noses…..

Our over night in Atlanta passed quickly and then we were on our way home to Bermuda. Flying into Bermuda one passes over the beautiful reefs and turquoise waters before glimpsing the island’s spread out before you.

It is always wonderful to fly in. The airport was amazingly organised, you show your covid documents, pass down immigration lines, collect bags, pass through customs no declaration line and out to the testing line. There you leave your bags aside, go into the testing area, have a PCR and then out of the terminal. Overall it didn’t even take 1/2 an hour, and everyone has a mask on, everything is clean and there is no crowding. 

To Gavin and Katie’s home

Gavin picked us up and took us back to the apartment which is attached to his and Katie’s home. There we awaited our all clear from the landing test, which came via an email the next morning stating negative. We did have to have tests on days 4 and 10, but again this took 10 minutes, was painless and negative. 

Caring for Lily and Evie

At Gavin and Katie’s home we stayed until August 21st when our last guests left our Airbnb. Our early arrival was planned so that we could care for our granddaughters Lily and Evie while Gavin and Katie travelled to a friend’s celebration weekend in Charleston.

So, we had one full day with them learning the ropes and then they left. We were very fortunate to have the help of Edna the Nanny for the first 2 days.

For the most part all went well, we all went for the day 4 covid test, into Hamilton, (the girls had been in California before we arrived).

We did a walk to Devonshire Bay and the fort, sucking Honey Suckle along the way,

they played, swam in the pool, our daughter Kate visited with our granddaughter May,

everyone played and the days passed. John even took the girls to a birthday party

while I cleaned our Airbnb.

Before we knew it Katie and Gavin returned, did their isolation for results, received negative results and took over again. 

Now everyone must be wondering what about Chrissie and Quest, where were they?

Unfortunately, Quest’s pre school was shut due to a covid outbreak. This was just before we arrived, so poor Quest and Chrissie along with our grandson Ethan who lives with them were quarantined for 2 weeks. Now this might seem extreme, but 12 days into the quarantine Chrissie who is vaccinated lost her sense of smell and taste, felt very ill and tested positive. They were then quarantined for a further 12 days! All of this came about due to a family who arrived back in Bermuda and the parents sending their child to school instead of quarantining. We all felt so sad forChrissie, Quest and Ethan as they were missing out on all the cousin fun.

 

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Back on the Rio Dulce

 

 

Photo Album: Back on the Rio Dulce ——>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6pDPYSTtPGLTfHn96

Once we had been back in Catamaran Marina for about a day it was as if we had never left….life was back to normal. Chico went out around 5:30am to prowl, John went to the breakfast bar for coffee, we listened to the net, we ordered bread from Irene, and we continued with boat chores each day……

We had all of the boat prep to work through, decks cleared – jugs, dive tanks, lines, etc and everything stored in the bodega. Water maker and generator serviced, our second dinghy engine sent in to be serviced, main engine oil change and cleaned, bilges cleaned, on and on….

The hardest by far was the dropping of the main and the jib, flaking them and getting them into the bodega. In fact the jib was a right pain as we had it down on the deck, flaked and folded, tied in a nice bundle, but when moving it to the dock the jib decided to go for a swim. We then had to get it out of the river, into the dinghy, over to a dock, into a wheel barrow and up to the tennis court to spread it and dry it out. By then it was near enough midday, super hot and unpleasant to work.

An evening at Casa Perico

There were new folks in the marina and there were folks leaving so an evening at Casa Perico was organised. This is a very nice German restaurant situated near Catamaran Marina down a tributary. It is very pretty and tucked right out of the way.

There were 17 of us, so the staff were hard pressed to keep track of the orders being out of practice due to covid. I was disappointed as my order was forgotten and then when it came it was pretty 2nd rate. Anyway we enjoyed the company after just returning

Incredible rains, mega thunder and lightening!

The weather has been mostly rainy. In fact over 5 of the days we had 17 inches of rain fall. When it rains it pours down, plus add the thunder and the lightening sometimes with wind and sometimes without. Most folks like the rainy season although it is humid, it’s not quite as hot as the sunny blue sky days. 

Walks….

Walking our pipeline trail has not really been an option with all the rainfall, but I have been making daily rounds, and arounds, of Catamaran Island and the grounds across the bridge.

The grounds are full of flowers, orchids, air-plants, bromeliads, tall trees of numerous types and of course birds, lizards, insects and so much more.

Every outing I spy another photo, something always catches my eye. We just love it here at Catamaran Marina.

Chico

Chico roams the grounds daily. He wakes me at dawn to let him out, yes everyday, then he is in and out all day. So far he has only returned with 2 birds, both unhurt, just brought back for our inspection. 

Wonderful fruits, and foods abound

When in the Rio we are especially lucky to be able to get the freshest fruits and vegetables in Fronteras. This year the produce is amazing and so abundant. We both enjoy trying different fruits, exotic ones that never make it to any supermarket.

Another treat is a young lady’s sourdough breads, buns, bagels and delicious fruity Kefir drink which she makes fresh weekly, we order and she delivers to Aeeshah. She started this enterprise during the dark days of covid last year and now she has quite a business going. 

 We also love to order fresh cheeses from another young woman who has started an exotic cheese trade. On a Friday we can purchase a mixed cheese platter which is fantastically savoury and varied.

Meeting friends 

Keeping up with our friends from Belize means we go to Los Amandes restaurant for lunch on Fridays

We have a catch up session and exchange news, info and enjoy each other company for a few hours. Then on Sunday’s a group of us play Mexican Train dominos here at Catamaran in the breakfast bar by the waterside. 

A visit to Casa Agua Azul and El Estor

Our Dockmaster  Steve, plus marina neighbours Muriel and Tuddy never left the Rio this season. They stayed and continued their work for their charity “Friends of Rio Dulce” which is also sponsored by Seven Seas Cruising. They have accomplished many amazing feats, helping rebuild a bridge to a village, refurbishing many schools that were flooded, supplying wheel chairs for local children, helping to fund much needed operations for needy locals and just so much more. They invited John and I to go to an orphanage for children that have been abused and so removed from those homes. 

It was a Saturday and we set off in Steves car heading out on the road to El Estor. I do not think saying the roads are rough with potholes is the apt description of the 1st portion of the road. This road had rainwater-craters, with thick mud, and debris. It is a portion of road that has been neglected and with the heavy mining trucks using it ….. We finally were on the better paved roadway and soon arrived at the orphanage. It is run by Blue Water Surrender and is called Casa Agua Azul found on the shores of Lake Izabal.

The house is a lovely bright yellow and set in very attractive grounds surrounded by a fence.

The children greeted us with hugs and then we were shown around by one of the caregivers. We spent a short while chatting with the children and enjoying their company before we headed out. 

Steve drove us to El Estor where we enjoyed a very nice lunch in one of the lakeside restaurants.  Just after lunch a young lady with a toddler on her shoulders came in and asked if we wanted to buy a rose that she had made. I thought they were very creative, made from a palmetto leaf and woven together.

El Estor is much larger and better laid out than Fronteras. It is also much quieter, mind you we only saw a small section.

The drive back was again an adventure. The scenery as always is wonderful, the fields, trees and road sides are so green from all the rains. And the rivers just overflowing!

“New couches”

Our couches were in need of a cleaning and as I have been fed up with the fabric they were upholstered in we decided to get them reupholstered.

We had Newy do the job for us and he really did a fabulous job! The whole job only took a few days too.

It’s been a busy, but a quiet month mainly spent at Catamaran as the pandemic is still raging. Now we are homeward bound.

“When we are in touch with the refreshing, peaceful and healing elements within ourselves and around us, we learn how to cherish and protect these things and make them grow. These elements of peace are available to us anytime.” —  Thich Nhat Hanh

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Goodbye Belize, hello Rio Dulce and Catamaran Marina

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>https://photos.app.goo.gl/YTR9zphSqQTN4NDc8

Upon returning to Placencia the very 1st place we visited was the Health Clinic to see if we could get covid shot number 2. It was just one day short of the 8 weeks and the nurse administered the shots giving us our covid freedom. Belize has been wonderful to us!

Our last few weeks

Our time in Belize was slowly coming to an end. We had enjoyed many wonderful days exploring the cays, snorkeling the reefs and walking the shores. 

The last two weeks were spent in Placencia. There was no wind most days, it was incredibly hot and nightly squalls were becoming a regular occurrence. In other words, there just wasn’t the wind to sail and neither of us felt bothered to motor anywhere.

A few more boats arrived bringing the total number of us to 6 in the anchorage. Compare this to the norm from before of 50 odd…..

We all visited the newly established Placencia Yacht Club for sun downers. It was very enjoyable catching up with friends and hearing news of others in the Bay Ialands. 

We enjoyed our last few:

Fry Jacks from Carmen’s

Sunday Barbecue at Yolli’s

Italian ice cream at Tutti Fruiti

Walks along the longest sidewalk

Off to check out

We were all off to check out on the morning of our last full day, June 21st. There were 4 boats leaving, Latitude with Derek and Carol, Rainbows End with Don and Pam, and Sea Mist with Rene and Michael, and us. We all caught the 7:30 Hocky Pocky to Big Creek and Pappy’s taxi to the Port Captain’s office.

There they had us fill out forms with info they already had, then sent us to the Immigration office which is down the road to get a paper stamped. Well what a fiasco at Immigration as they were awkward yet again. This time around demanding copies of boat papers. They stamped our paper that needed stamping, but wouldn’t stamp the passports and sent us to get a copy of the boat papers.

Back at Customs a very nice officer printed our boat papers and stamped the form sending us back to Immigration who finally stamped our passports, sending us back to customs to pay $50 and Port Authority to hand in our stamped paper to collect our exit document. This all took over 2 hours. Belize had said they were streamlining their system……

New Haven

The following morning we were off to New Haven. Sailing to New Haven was uneventful, but dreadfully hot. Even Chico complains about the heat when it’s blazing.

However the evening and the morning were distasteful as we were plagued by tabanos.

These dreadful insects literally attack you. Their bite is very nasty leaving a cavity which hurts and itches like no other.

Luckily I had the remedy at hand, fresh limes to rub on the bites to lessen the effects. Meanwhile John came up in hives, not from tabano bites but something he ate. It started around the waist and spread by morning he was covered in hives, his hands and face swollen. We could not think of what he had eaten to cause the out break. Away from New Haven we fled as soon as we were ready.

Tres Puntas

Next stop was Tres Puntas. Here we had planned to spend two nights, but that was not to be.  During the first night the weather came in with a furry. The wind blew, the thunder crashed and the lightning flashed, waves were coming over the bow. This started just after midnight and continued for several hours. So plans changed, we were up anchoring at 5:00am and off we sped to Livingstone enjoying a beautiful sunrise. 

Now normally the sand/mud bar at Livingstone is very challenging for us. In fact one time we had to be tilted over and dragged across. Well with the wonderful Strawberry full moon the tide was way up and at 7:00am at the highest tide we crossed without even smudging the bottom.

The regular fishing, shrimping boats were chugging back in with the usual following of birds, Livingstone looked the same, a somewhat grubby little town. Around 10:00am the authorities came and visited. As usual they were polite, friendly and cheerful.

Our details and documents were taken and we were to go to Raul’s office after 45 minutes to pick them up. Oh, and no covid test as we are vaccinated!

Up the Rio Dulce

Off we went up the Rio Dulce towards Cayo Quemado our destination for the next few days. The river journey is always spectacular! The birds, pelicans, egrets, laughing gulls, and other water birds are ever present, flying, swooping, roosting, floating on the water all around.

The sounds from the forested slopes of the shrilling ciacada, the chirping birds and crickets are amazingly loud.

The folks living along the river banks paddling around conducting their business on the river, the launchas whizzing past with the waving tourists out for the day all combine to make the journey magical. Nobody would ever tire of the ride along the Rio Dulce.

Cayo Quemado

At Cayo Quemado we opted to anchor on the outside for several reasons, better breeze, fewer bugs and better wifi. The day was still and the reflections were wonderful.

Pam and Don anchored on the inside. We were just exhausted from 2 nights of very little sleep so a quiet, early, night was had by one and all.

 

Latitude and Sea Mist arrived in the afternoon the following day. They had enjoyed great sailing weather and calm night anchorages. What a difference 24 hours makes…. 

John and I enjoyed revisiting the byways of Cayo Quemado. We went in the dinghy along narrow mangrove canals, enjoying the beautiful scenery.

The water lilies, the reflections, hovering dragonflies, and the mystic of what’s around the next bend make this a delightful experience once again.

That evening we all met at Texas Mike’s for dinner.

This is always an experience that is a bit like the Mad Hatters tea party, but in the evening with booze. It was a fun night as usual with interesting company.

Back at Catamaran 

Off we went to Catamaran the next morning. Arriving around noon we were soon all tied up, set up and off walking around the wonderful grounds.

Chico was soon prowling the grounds, enjoying love from his fans, and munching grass. Within a few days we were once again well established. We began all the regular end of season chores, met the new comers, enjoyed social time and daily strolls around the property. 

“The whole idea is not to figure out what you should do that will matter, but to make each thing you do reflect the values you want, because we don’t know what’s going to matter in the future.”

— Gloria Steinem

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Cay Caulker and the wonderful Glover’s reef

 

PHOTOS LINKS–>>

Cay Caulker to Glover’s reef and back to Placencia.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/fcWX6dQzCngKDtBM8

Under water at Glover’s reef:

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LPbi6DaYqmrCMDF66

Cay Caulker

Over the next few days we enjoyed walking the pathways of Cay Caulker, exploring the various little grocery stores trying to find supplies for the following weeks.

We managed to get our laundry done at the same place we had  always used, Marie’s laundry. We saw many of our old haunts and had another wonderful Chinese dinner.

Everyone wears their masks and socially distances, well that is nearly everyone. There is a happy, fun atmosphere. The various eateries are open, everybody is ready for business.

We really enjoyed our time in Cay Caulker, but we needed to move on. 

Ambergris Cay and San Pedro

It was time to re-up again. Belize is unusual in that every month you have to visit the authorities and renew your immigration, customs and port authority for both us and Aeeshah.

We had all decided to make a trip over to Ambergris Cay to accomplish this and also pick up a few bits and pieces we couldn’t get in Cay Caulker. Off on the ferry we sped for a fast half hour ride to San Pedro the small town on the cay.

Now Ambergris has a totally different atmosphere to Cay Caulker and Placencia, the place is usually a bee hive of activity. While it was busy it was nothing like it used to be.

We walked to immigration and customs by the airport and managed to finished with them rather quickly for Belize, just taking about 90 minutes. Then off we went via taxi to port authority at the very for end of nowhere at the end of Ambergris.

Back in town we had a really nice fish and chip lunch by the beach and then hit the streets.

Luck was on our side we managed to get everything we all wanted and returned to Cay Calker on the 3:00pm ferry.

Turneffe and Glover’s Reef

Our next destination was to be Lighthouse Reef followed by Glover’s reef, both are atolls off the Belize shores. We left Cay Caulker and headed first to Turneffe by way of Long Cay pass over the reef. Turneffe is also an atoll, but mainly made up of mangrove cays. We anchored off of Blue Creek for the night.

Next day the aim was to head towards Lighthouse, but the wind and seas were not in our favour, it was going to be a very rough passage heading right into the conflicting seas and wind. We all made the decision to head southwards to Glover’s Reef. 

This was a much easier angle, plus a quick passage. John and Chico were very happy when we had a strike, it turned out to be a large bull Mai Mai. These fish are so wonderfully colourful, just magnificent, I really felt awful having to kill the fish. However not one piece would be wasted.

Approaching Glovers the cays and the shallows looked like a paradise set in the turquoise waters, just stunningly beautiful. We anchored off of the Southwest cays the one where the Manta Resort is found. 

We had visited Belize 11 years previously along with our Grandson Ethan and Glovers was where we had spent a week diving and snorkelling so we were really looking forward to reuniting with the area.

The first place we visited was the cay where the Marisol Resort was and still is located. It is found on the cay just past where we were anchored. From our approach the place looked exactly as we remembered, just lovely.

There was one of the workers at the dive dock, he told us we were welcome to wander s it is an all inclusive resort. I asked if my dive master Mora was still working there and sure enough he was.

The fellow went off to call him and a short time later Mora came to say hello. As it turned out he had been stung/speared near his knee by a sting ray and was resting, but suffering from the poisoning. It was still great to see him after all this time. He really was a wonderful instructor.

We wandered the pathways to the other side of the cay, everything was as it had been, just beautiful and so peaceful. A wonderful place to stay.

After a good hour of reminiscing we set off to the nearby reef to snorkel.

Snorkelling Glover’s reefs

The snorkelling was/is excellent. We saw all types of corals and reef fish, plus large tarpon in the deeper waters and squid over the reef.

Many live conch and the molluscs crawling over the sands, Flamingo Tongues attached to the sea fans,…….and so much more.

The water was/is lovely and clear, plus the perfect temperature for snorkelling. Some of the best snorkelling I’ve done for quite a while.

Over the next several days we had many snorkelling trips to many of the closer reef. Each time it was just wonderful! We saw dozens of differing fish and corals, conchs and other shells. This area is a dream to snorkel!

Middle Cay

Another excursion was to Middle Cay where there is a research station run by Wildlife Conservation International. It was quite a long dinghy trip of 2 and 1/2 miles but the water was more or less flat calm as we were inside the reef.

On arrival we met Buck who welcomed us to visit. He was in charge of all maintenance for the place. Buck explained that they were a World Heritage site funded by the New York Zoo.

That visiting scientists conduct field studies, do research, closely monitor the reef environment and species living within the area. It is a park so the parks people have folks there, fisheries also. They do a 2 to 3 week shift while the scientists stay as long as necessary.

While he was explaining I was noticing loads of no-see-ums, I was going to get our bug repellent, but Buck offered his. John didn’t think he needed it….

We then met a visiting Brazilian scientist. She explained that she was there studying the tiny little reef fish the Goby. These are tiny reef fish with more than 2,200 species. They are a scaleless fish, typically elongated bodies with weak spines.

She said she was studying, not so much the ones you see acting as cleaners to the larger fish, but the ones that live in and around the tube sponges, on the corals. Her study was nearly complete and then she would be off somewhere else. The gobys they had kept in saltwater fed containers in the laboratory area. 

By this time John was itching and in need of the bug repellent. 

We then set off to walk around the whole cay. John hung onto the bug repellent…

The walk around was just lovely, very peaceful with peaceful view points over the sea and reef. However as we entered the more mangrove areas there were many more bugs. The no-see-ums were joined by the mosquitoes. These I found very annoying as they buzz around your face and ears. And they did make me hasten my stroll into a quick walk back to the breeze of the dock.

Overall it was a lovely visit to Middle Cay. I was hardly bitten, maybe 2 or 3 bites, but John was covered in bites which itched him for days and nights after. 

Another boat had joined us for the last few days, Latitude, with Derick and Carol.

We had a very nice late afternoon drink at the bar over the ocean at the Marisol Resort. Enjoying catching up on all that we all had to share. 

After nearly a week at Glover’s reef it was time to return to reality. Out there we had no wifi or data, no news, no emails, just our own reality. 

Leaving Glover’s we had rather rough seas as the wind was up, but soon we were in the protection of the land and reef. We headed into Blue Ground Range for the night and then the next morning heading off to Placencia. 

“The extraordinary is waiting quietly beneath the skin of all that is ordinary.”-  Mark Nepo

“This world is but canvas to our imaginations.” ― Henry David Thoreau

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Placencia to Cay Caulker, via Blue Ground range, Tobacco reef, Garbutt, Colson and Drowned Cays

 

PHOTO LINKS –>> Placencia to Cay Caulker

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GiFUn1EomUN1yKfb9

Tobacco Cay reef  https://photos.app.goo.gl/GiFUn1EomUN1yKfb9

 

Placencia

Once again our time in Placencia was punctuated with, fish and chips at Pickled Parrot on Friday, getting together at Rene and Michael’s housesit at Sailfish for a pot-luck and Sunday barbecues at Yolli’s.

It was very enjoyable to spend time with friends, have a delicious lunch and not have to cook that day, but we needed to move on……but first…

The weather had again become exceedingly hot and calm, a sure predictor of squalls and thunderstorms. Sure enough it came with its usual magnificent entry, it stormed for a night and day and then we were left with cooler, calm, breezes.

A friend of ours had some medical issues so we stayed in Placencia to help him. Then the morning he was leaving at 5:30 he ran aground, being a brown bar he was well and truly grounded.

Two local boats, plus Don and John in their dinghies went to the rescue.                                              After many hours he was finally freed.

Meanwhile we’d had our first boat issues for this season:

1st the head aka toilet stopped working. The problem was the usual, the pipes were clogged with hardened residue. Poor John took everything apart 3 times, used a snake several times, poured an acid down the tubes, and finally draino…..still the pipe was stopped up. We believe it is where the u-turn to the final stretch of pipe is located. Not wanting to have a possible major problem he closed off that head/toilet and I moved Chico out of his head which we have now taken over. 

2nd issue was the dinghy engines, both having problems at once. John managed to fix one and the other will be serviced back in the Rio.

3rd was our new mast light is not working. We need a calm day to get up the mast and check, till then we use the spreader lights at night.

Over all nothing too serious, but was 2 days of hard frustrating work for John. We counteracted all this by taking off, heading north, our first stop:

Blue Ground Range

During this passage John caught an Amber Jack, a nice dinner for Chico and us. It was also a lovely sail, smooth and fast all the way.

Our first morning was one of those dead calm, hazy, still, hot ones. We had spent much of our covid isolation time in Blue Ground last year and I wanted to ride the dinghy around all the familiar mangrove cays to see what had changed. 

Off we went taking the old route through the mangrove lanes. The reflections and blends of colour are always stunning as the water was calm and the skies were blue all over. We saw the old osprey nest, the osprey and the same fishing camps, the only change being virtually nobody about. 

When we came to the cay where a Dutch fellow had camped out last year we stopped to have a look around. Nobody was about, the place looked to have been deserted for many months.

We wandered about looking around the few huts that were built and along the pathways between them. The Dutchman had said there was a wild pig roaming about, but the pig must have left with the Dutchman. No doubt this place will deteriorate just like so many we see….fallen dreams.

Tobacco Range

The following day both us and Rainbow’s End with Pam and Don headed to Tobacco Range as we knew the weather was closing in again.

The few days had been still and the heat had climbed, the forecast predicted squalls and rain. In Tobacco Range you get near perfect shelter from every direction. Sure enough the weather closed in and we had a squally, rainy night.

Unexpectantly, the winds came from the south and banked around, it would have been very uncomfortable in most places, but other than being a bit too close to the mangroves we were fine. Of course there was the calm weather after squalls passed. We took the time to getting caught up on chores that needed doing, the never ending boat maintenance, the mast light was finally fixed. 

Man O War Cay

Plus we went in the dinghy to where the cormorants, frigate birds – aka man of war birds, and Boobies nest and roost, a small mangrove cay called Man O War Cay. It was quite shocking and very sad to see how little was left after the hurricane from the previous season.

Most of the mangroves were lying dead in the water, the ones that stood also looked more dead than alive, but many birds were still trying to call this cay home. Even being late in the season there were frigate chicks and the males were still puffing out their red throats to attract the females.

There were birds all over chattering, squeaking, soaring, nudging others for space, trying to make a home. We watched them for quite a while and both wondered why they didn’t move to the other cays that are covered in complete mangroves tree??

Tobacco Reef

We all, both boats, decided to stop at Tobacco Reef for a snorkel before heading out. So we up anchored and headed out to re-anchor on the inside of Tobacco Reef opposite Tobacco Cay. This is one of my favourite places to snorkel, it is always a stunning snorkel.

We left the big boats and took our dinghy and anchored in the sand off the reef line. Again it was an excellent snorkel. The reef here is so alive with all the differing corals and fish. I saw, rays, a nurse shark asleep by a reef, hogfish, red hind, huge schools of snappers and many more fish. The corals were magnificent! All the differing types of corals and with the crystal clear water it was a simply beautiful snorkel.

Garbutt Cay

We headed off to Garbutt Cay to anchor for the night. We had never anchored in this anchorage before and found it to be very rocky and deep. We went for a look around in the afternoon and could see that what was, or used to be, a tern rookery was now habited by a fishing shack.

There was another fishing shack on the adjacent cay, this one having people there. They were literally some of the first folks we had see since leaving days before. It must be a very rough life living out in the fishing shacks, no electricity, little water, no plumbing, little land mainly mangroves which are full of no-see-ums, horse flies and mosquitos. But saying that, the people looked and sounded happy with their lives.

Colson Cays

Was our next stop. The weather was still a bit unsettled, Pam on Rainbows End was unwell and we were not in a hurry to get anywhere. 

Again John and I set out in the dinghy to have a look around. We ventured into the lagoon of the cay we were anchored off, checked out the mangrove byways through it to the other side. 

Next, we set off to the neighbouring cay. We had previously visited there before and enjoyed snorkelling the blue holes and along the mangrove shoreline. To our surprise none of the shoreline we had previously see existed any more. The cay had been flattened, the mangroves destroyed, sand dredged, a retaining wall built, and a building was sitting towards one end.

Now the developers had destroyed a pristine cay but what they had built was shoddy, the wall was already subsiding in places so it looked like a wavy line and the building was crooked. What a mess!

There in the middle stood a lone tree with a large osprey nest atop it, and there not far away was one of the ospreys. Just a big, sad, destructive mess!

On our way back we saw the only fishing camp in the area, it was habited by a lone fisherman, but he had about six dogs who tried to swim out to us and then followed us along the shoreline.

Drowned Cays

Off we sailed the next day, opting for the inside channel as the winds were still up and showers around. At the Drowned Cays John and I once again went off in the dinghy to explore. The mangrove waterways were very, long and had quite strong currents running through them. Each waterway looks more or less identical, getting lost would be very easy. 

Cay Caulker

Was our next destination and marked the furthest north we would go. We needed to travel through the notorious Porto Stuck, so named for its shallows. Our timing was calculated so that we had the morning high at 7:00am to cross. The water was thin, but we made it with no worries.

We hadn’t visited Cay Cauker in three years and we’re looking forward to revisiting our favourite places. After lunch we all went ashore.

Cay Caulker is a colourful place. The streets are all sandy paths, there are no cars or motor bikes only a few golf carts and the old push bike to get around on.

We walked around enjoying the ambience, looking at all the sights, enjoying the exercise. We settled at the Lazy Lizard for a cool drink again just people watching.

Most of the folks were young enjoying the day in the sun. 

On our walk back we stopped at my favourite Chinese restaurant of all times, “Yummy’s” to get a take out.

At first the lady who had been there did not recognise me, but then I caught her doing a double take, staring, and exclaiming, “You’re back! Welcome back Mummy!” That evening I enjoyed the best sweet and sour chicken ever and as before it was enough food for 2 nights!

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An outing to Akte’Ilha Cacoa Farm, Nim Li Punit Mayan ruins and the Belize Spice farm and Botanical gardens

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfQa3wCyqZuvYx919

 

Renewing our paperwork

On returning to Planencia it was time for us to “re-up” in other words apply for another months stay in Belize.

We all went together, Rainbows End – Pam and Don; Latitude – Carol and Derick; plus us. 1st step is getting the 7:30am Hokey Pokey to Mango Creek.

There we were lucky to get Pappy as our taxi driver, lucky because we have used him before and he is well versed with the process. Off we drove through Independence to the Immigration office. We had all of our usual necessary papers, but the officer at the window wanted to see our bank statement….yep, a bank statement, he said, to prove to him we could support ourselves while in Belize. Of course there is no understanding on his part that the demand is an imposition into our privacy….. So after some quick online sleuthing we manage to get something from an American account on John’s phone. Go back to the window and it’s a different officer, who doesn’t want to see our finances. Just the boat papers of ownership are proof of assets to him!

Anyway got the month at Immigration at a cost of $200 each, up from $50 last year.

The next stop customs, was easy, a couple of stamps on our papers and off to Port Authority. Again, friendly, easy going staff quickly fill out our forms and we pay for another month.

Off we went back to the Hokey Pokey, zooming back to Placencia and in plenty of time to all meet for fish and chip lunch at Pickled Parrot.

Pappy had chatted to me during the drive telling me about a few places that he could take us to for a day’s tour. It sounded interesting so as a group we decided to head out with Pappy that Monday.

Mango Creek, Independence and the surrounding town area.

Pappy picked us up from the Hockey Pockey stop at Mango Creek and proceeded to drive around the town area of Independence showing us the schools, council meeting area, shops and such. We stopped at what had been the cruise ship stopping/shopping area which is all now closed and abandoned. Pappy used to have a stall there, hopefully one day the area will be able to open again.

We headed along the Punta Gorda road stopping at a friend’s little cafe/bar/farm,

Coleman’s Place.

Here we had a cold drink, chatted and had a look around. It is a very unique place that the fellow has built. Decorated with old bottles, antelope horns and other pieces which have been found in or around the river on the property.

There was a tub of cashew fruit for us to try and take home.

Not many folks realize that the cashew nut develops not on the inside but on the outside of the fruit. The fruit tasted extremely sweet, but had a funny dry texture. It can be squeezed and used as juice or in smoothies. Everyone loved the flavour of the fruit.

Coconut farms, bananas and the runway

Traveling along we stopped at Pappy’s farm that he is developing. His main crop will be coconuts. Pappy explained that most farms have changed or started to change from citrus to coconuts. They are in demand for coconut oil, milk, meat and husk, the tree is easy to grow, produces bountiful fruit and need little care. Further along the road we saw hundreds of acres of coconuts being farmed on huge commercial farms.

We stopped outside a banana plantation processing plant. Bananas are also in huge demand but require more specialized care. This processing plant was unable to open for us at that time, but we could see much of it from outside the gates.

Still further along Pappy told us the name for that section of road was “the runway” as it had and still could be used for drug planes. They fly in land on the runway, quickly unload and leave, the police keep watch and have managed to intervene with one flight. The fires that were burning along the roadsides had been deliberately lit to clear the undergrowth. Apparently instead of cleaning the roadside the folks responsible now just light fires.

Akte’Ilha Cacoa Farm

Was our next stop. This is a family owned organic farm that mainly grows Cacoa. Here we met our guide Ray, whose Dad had started the whole operation. We followed a pathway leading uphill, stopping along the way to listen to information about Cacoa and other trees and plants.

They have 3 main types of Cacoa growing on the farm that are used for their chocolate.

Cacoa trees produce their flowers and fruits along any part of the trunk or branch of the tree.

The flowers are very small and quite delicate, relying on pollination in order to become fruit. They keep the trees shorter in order to be able to harvest the Cacoa pods. Our guide broke open a ripe pod and offered us the soft white pulpy fruit inside. The while pulp covers the Cacoa beans and it tastes wonderful! Almost like a sweet vanilla flavor. Everyone had several samples of the fruit.

As we continued along the path Ray showed us many other plants and fruits explaining their uses. One was Alspice, the dry seed being used for seasoning, but also the leaf used for numbing sore gums.

Coffee beans, most of which had been harvested, the Craboo tree with its orange blossoms, which I had seen growing along the lanes in Placencia, it’s fruit being edible berries called Nance.

The Achiote fruit whose dried berries are used to make Recado paste, a red food coloring.

We were shown the spring, the water source for the farm, which runs downhill to their catchment. Near the spring he pointed out a palmetto covered in long sharp thorns, telling us this was the Akte Palm which grows all over the property. And the name of the spring is Ilha, thus the name of the farm is: Akte’Ilha.

Nearing the top we were given some Jipi Japa shoots to try. I had seen Mayans in Guatemala selling these shoots but never knew what they were for, now I knew, they are essentially similar to Palm Hearts. The lower white part tastes wonderful, they are a popular food source.

Once at the top of the hill we were able to look out across the whole area seeing all the way to the coast. Ray then pointed out how the trees and plants in the farm had been grown in layers affording shade to each other thereby growing in harmony.

On our way down he showed us one of the bigger shade trees and its fruit, the Jack Fruit. It is just enormous  and also grows right out of the trunk or branch of the tree.

Our guide, Ray told John how the farm extends right up into the Mayan mountains behind and that he and his brother had been up at 5am into the mountain harvesting corn they had growing. They then carried a load each in bags, which straps they had hung from their foreheads. On our return he showed us the bags, each were a good 100lbs!!

The next treat was seeing and helping to make chocolate. His wife had beans roasting on an small open oven inside one of the buildings.

Once the beans were roasted she showed us how the shells were shucked off.

She then took the pan outside and shook the pan so all the husks blew away.

Back inside the beans were smashed and next rolled into a paste. No water was added the paste simply formed from the dried beans themselves. Each of us could have a turn at this process.

From the paste, which is pure chocolate they add sugar to make the bars or use it to make nibs, small chocolate pieces, or their special chocolate drink.

This chocolate drink is like the Mayan champagne, reserved for special occasions, for example, an engagement. A jug of chocolate drink had been make for us to try, it was amazing!!

Just an excellent flavor and so refreshing. We all had several calabash cup fulls.

Off we drove to Nim Li Punit

This is an archaeological site that had been occupied by the Mayans from approximately AD400 till approximately AD800. We took ourselves around the site which was shaded by large trees. Pathways wound around the whole park area with informational boards telling a bit about each group of structures.

The ball court which was essential to most Mayan settlements was our 1st area.

E group which was where the Mayans provided a fixed location for observing the sun, moon and stars.

The Royal tombs where archeologists had found 5 bodies, sea shells, pottery, jade, sting ray spines and carved stone.

From the top of the site we had a lovely view across the area imagining ourselves standing where the ancient Mayans stood. The whole park area was very nice to walk around, being shaded and well maintained.

Belize Spice Farm and Biological Gardens

By this stage we were all starving …. And quite thirsty, so we were well pleased with the lovely resturant.

After our very nice lunch we had a quick look around the Spice shop and then loaded up into the wagon that was attached to a tractor for our Spice farm tour.

The tour starts off down the bougainvillea arches where we would stop intermittently to be informed about various plants growing along the way.

The most beautiful of flowers were growing in the lily ponds. These were Lotus flowers aka shower head water lilies. I had never seen them before and found the whole scene lovely.

Our guide picked one of the green shower heads seed pods and popped the white seeds out showing us they were also edible, quite tasty too.

There were the huge lily pads from China and other varieties of lovely waterlilies.

At another point along the archway there was the Blue Pigeon Pea flower (the Clitoral flower) from India which produces an edible pea.

The Red Passion Flower from Brazil, which is ornamental, the Sand Paper plant with a beautiful bunches of blue flowers, each pillar of the arch had a differing interesting plant/flower.

We then started along, and up, and down the many rows of specialized trees and plants all of which our guide gave us an enormous amount of info about each one.

The ornamental Golden shower, the very fragrant Ilang- Ilang (tree) used for perfumes both of which come from India, the Philippines south east Asia.

The teak trees which after harvest sprouts regrowth, to again grow another trunk.

The coconut trees, which produce a multitude of coconuts.

The nutmeg trees whose fruits hold the nutmeg which is a valuable crop.

Dragon Fruit from China, which blooms at night and are pollinated by bats.

Cardamom plants from India whose seeds produce the flavorful spice.

Turmeric roots and ginger roots both popular spices that are also very good for you. The differing bamboo where the iguanas were hiding.

The ornamental Silver Palmetto and Ponytail Palm, behind which stood a magnificent Mahogany tree, which are now quite rare.

There was a large area where vanilla was growing under the shade of teak trees. Vanilla is an orchid, this variety was the Flat Leaf Vanilla from Mexico.

The plant was attached and supported on a post, under teak trees for shade. It is very pampered crop as it is a very valuable crop. The reason for its value is that each blossom blooms only for 6 hours and in that time it has to be pollinated by the workers otherwise the vanilla bean does not develop.

Plus the bean must not be disturbed until it reaches maturity, at about 5 months later or else it stops growing. Our guide explained that he and other workers would be out and up and down the rows for hours every early morning for a few months during flowering season. 

The next area visited was again vines growing on posts under the shade of teak trees. This vine was the Black Pepper vine. I never realized that Black Pepper came from a vine. This crop is also a very labour intensive crop that is also valuable. John tasted the black pepper corns and found that they are extremely spicy.

We were back at the main building and restaurant area and it was time to head back to Independence. The day was wonderful, we were all very happy with the day Pappy had shown us. We drove back to the Hokey Pokey and were soon back in Placencia.

The flower is aware of the fact that it contains everything within it, the whole cosmos, and it does not try to become something else. – Thich Nhat Hanh

 

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Placencia to South Water and Tobacco Cays

 

PHOTO ALBUM:–>>Placencia to South water and Tobacco Cays
PHOTO ALBUM:–>>Underwater South Water and Tobacco cay 

 

Placencia

 After receiving our Astra Zeneca from the local clinic both John and I did not feel 100%. He woke the next day with a raging headache and feeling hung over. He actually wondered if he’d had too many beers the evening before. I felt jet lagged, like slow of mind and body like a real 65 year old. Neither of us did much that day, we just chilled. 

We were soon back into our morning walks, which are basically a big loop around Placencia. 

The weather had been incredibly hot, just soaring temperatures in the high 90s with hardly a breath of air, dust covered the cars and bushes, the sand on the lanes would burn through the soles of your flip flops to the underside of your feet, incredibly hot.

Then the burning started, yep once again this year they started burning the fields and roadsides. So the skies filled with smoke, the air was hot, still and smoky!

We were saved by the weather that moved in during one afternoon. The winds switched to the South blowing right into the harbour causing the seas to roll in too. John had been helping move our friend’s boat, but arrived back before it became too rolly. We moved d Aeeshah into the lagoon where it is always protected from all directions. The winds blew the horrible smoke inland while a thunderstorm started moving in from the north.

We could hear the thunder rumbling in the distance for ages, dark clouds rolled in and the whole weather situation switched up. Cool breeze became cool winds, the rumbling became much louder the lightening was flashing all around and the first rains for some weeks started to fall. The night fell and the weather continued, the winds rose to gusts of about 30 knots, by morning Aeeshah was nicely washed off, the temperature was cooler and a pleasant breeze blew. 

 

 

We enjoyed a few get-togethers with our friends off of Latitude and Rainbows end at Sunfish, the property Michael and Rere are sitting for. We did pot lucks for lunch which saved having to cook.

Local street foods are always great to eat. The Jacks and Stuffed Jacks are yummy. Plus the pies, small pies stuffed with meat are great.

After a week of stocking up, cleaning, and other chores finally the weather was looking good to head out to the outer cays. 

South Water Cay

Our destination for the week was SouthWater Cay and Tobacco Cay. 

We sailed the whole way to SouthWater and anchored in the deep sandy water off the reef. John had caught a large Cobia along the way, so the first task was cleaning the fish. Chico relishes these fish cleaning sessions, but he was a bit put out this time as he had to share.

The Frigate Birds arrived and swooped in for any scraps. These birds are amazing! Huge birds that fly and soar so gracefully, they cannot enter the water as their feathers are not water proofed with oils. Instead they have to secure the food from the surface or just under the surface with beak or claws.

Our days basically entailed snorkelling in the mornings and afternoons plus going in the dinghy along the inshore reefs. Basic, easy going fun times exploring together.

 

We enjoyed snorkelling through the deep cut between SouthWater and Carrie Bow Cay. There, in the depths of 15 – 20 feet, we could see a school of tarpon lazing below.

While on the outer reef there were forests of stag horn corals with the waves breaking over them. The fish were wonderful, many differing, colourful species gliding around the corals. 

Across the cut off of Carrie Bow Cay we snorkelled the shallower reef.

Again, it was a lovely snorkel. I saw schools of Sergeant Majors, Yellow Grunts, Snappers and more juvenile fish hiding amongst the corals and sea whips. 

When we motored in the dinghy along the inside, shallow reef there were always numerous rays gliding along. John likes to follow them in the dinghy. The rays always head to the very shallows where we can’t take the dinghy.

During one morning visit to South water Cay I spotted a pair of handsome Osprey in the casuarina trees. I was lucky enough to be able to walk right along the sand spit to just near the trees and watch them in the branches.

Tobacco Cay

After several days we moved along to Tobacco Cay. The snorkelling there is amazing! Through the deep cut between the cay and the reef of the other side, in the deep water, there were huge schools of tarpon.

Just too many to count, gliding along following each other in large circles along the sandy bottom. I followed a group of speckled rays gliding just above the reef area.

In this cut the reef is deeper but well flushed and healthy with all types of corals and reef fish. 

It was the full moon, the Pink Super Moon,at the time we were there so the tides were lower than normal.

One afternoon when the reef was exposed John and I ventured for a walk along the exposed reef. It is sort of like walking on the edge of the world….

The weather was and had been getting very windy which was making the evenings and nights a bit risky anchored out at the reef. So it was decided to head back to Placencia a day early. 

“The consequences of your life are sown in what you do and how you behave.”

—  Tom Shadyac

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