Aeeshah

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/wRJu9ZW68FioZwjT6

Underwater PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/maHDfoQdL4NBLTNq7

SouthWater Cay

Leaving Sapordilla we headed out to SouthWater cay for the night and had another lovely snorkel. Ethan and John headed out the cut again to the deep water. I enjoyed all the shallower corals and fish. This time the water was a bit warmer, but still 45 minutes was our limit. 

Glover’s Atoll – Ethan’s Birthday

Through the cut to the open ocean at SouthWater we then headed towards Glover’s atoll. It was Ethan’s Birthday and our gift was a return visit to Glover’s. (When he was 10 we had visited on a diving holiday, he had always wanted to return.)

The passage over to Glovers was average, some sailing and some motor sailing the wind was just not quite strong enough. The rods were out, but with all the seaweed we never got a bite. We did see more dolphins playing off of our bow, quite a large pod with small young ones. Ethan enjoyed watching them from the bow. We have seen dolphin in nearly every anchorage and on every passage in the last few weeks, but Ethan reported this was by far the largest family pod.

Entering Glover’s through the break in the reefs on the south east we anchored off of the 1st cay. There is a luxury resort there that looks to be finally finished on this cay. They do not welcome cruising boats and they do not look in our price range. 

That afternoon John and Ethan went for a dinghy about, reminiscing old memories from our previous visit.

For Ethan’s birthday evening he opened a bottle of bubbly on the bow during the sunset which he then shared with Papa. We had barbecued steak for dinner – (Excellent Guatemalan steak which we had saved)

The following morning we dinghied to the second cay where the Marisol resort is located. Unfortunately it was closed so all the staff were away.

We were allowed to walk around and enjoyed visiting the cay where we had 1st taken Ethan when he was 10 and learnt to dive.

Just about everything was still the same, the gaily painted chalets, the coconut lined walkways, the shallow reef on the outside, and the shady coconut groves, our chalet overlooking the reef, all was just as we had last seen and remembered.

However at the far end of the cay the tiny resort there has changed ownership. It is now an eco resort specialising in students and young adults that seek adventure without luxury. (The small cabanas are tented not air conditioned)

Off to snorkel the reef. We started with one large reef in the morning where again the fellows concentrated on the deep water.

They looked for rays and tarpon. I was more interest in the lovely corals and fish, though I did see tarpon in the distant depths. 

Again in the afternoon we snorkelled at yet another large reef. This time I was amazed by a large shark that swam up over the reef, nearly right up to me. It then looked at me, and turned to glide by, I would estimate it was approximately 6-8 ft, a large nurse shark.

Further along I met up with Ethan who was following a large ray, I told him where the shark was located and he actually did manage to find it, now snoozing below a ledge in the reef.

Next morning was time to leave Glover’s and head back as again a front was due to visit in a few days.

Crossing to SouthWater Cay we once again trawled for fish, hoping to get a nice Jack or Mahi Mahi for dinner. However the sargassum seaweed is rampant, just masses of it again this year. Then just as we were about to sail through the SouthWater Cut we had a strike.

Ethan, was coached by Papa as to how to bring the fish in. It turned out to be a small Barracuda. We don’t eat Barracuda due to the chance of cigiterra so the guys released it……..Ethan was most relieved it wasn’t hurt.

We stopped at Blue Ground Range for the night and enjoyed another beautiful sunset. Crossing to the Sapodilla Lagoon the next morning. 

Sapordilla Lagoon – The Range/Reserve

In the lagoon was where we anchored to be protected for the newest front that was approaching. I took advantage of the marina laundry, Ethan and I took advantage of the marina wifi, and we all enjoyed walks around the Reserve looking for wildlife like coatimundis and birds like the swallow tailed fly catchers. 

John took out his drone and along with Don and Ethan tried to fly it.

However they had a few technical problems. After 2 days the weather was fine for us to head out to the reef and cays again.

We again enjoyed a fairly good sail across, but only caught seaweed.

SouthWater Cay and Tobacco Cay

SouthWater was our 1st stop. The weather was quite amazing, dead calm with glassy seas. We had a magical snorkel along the cut and out to the outside of the reef and cay.

The water was amazingly clear and warmer than usual. Ethan and John snorkelled nearly the whole of the outside reef. I snorkelled the deep and the shallows, the elk horn coral beds were huge, normally you cannot get close due to the swell but that day I could snorkel right up to and over them. It was a wonderful afternoon snorkel. 

In the later afternoon John and Ethan flew the drone off of the boat. This was a 1st, normally it is flown from land. The flying went really well mainly as there was no wind and the scenery there is gorgeous.

The next morning it was off to Tobacco Cay. Ethan was very happy to reel in a Spanish macheral, his 1st good eating fish.

We found our old sandy patch to anchor in. The sand holes are few and far between at Tobacco cay. The rest of the holding is not very good being grass beds.

We dinghied to the far side of the cut where we snorkelled. The whole of Tobacco cut and the reefs around are amazing for the corals and fish you see.

We had an excellent hour in the water. Again I spent my time between the deeper reef and the shallow reef. Here the reef nearly sticks out of the water and the swell rolls right over the reef.

Therefore one has to be very careful. In the deeper water of the cut there was a large school of big tarpon. John and Ethan followed them plus the numerous rays.

That evening it was fresh fish for dinner. Ethan was amazed by the size of the barracuda that stalked the side of the boat after the fish was cleaned and the blood and guts put in the water. The following day we were going to snorkel the other side of the cut, but the weather was iffy, the wind was up so we decided to head back to Placencia. The passage back was a mix of sail and engine, but quite interesting as we chose a different route through the cays and not down the main channel. 

Placencia 

At Placencia I was very happy not to have to cook dinner. Instead we could get a take out dinner of the local fish and chips one night, the Belizean pizza the second night and Ethan’s final night Fry Jacks…..no not the fish, a Belize speciality dish…..pic below.

We also were able to walk about and get a few gifts for Ethan to take back to his brother and sisters. Have a few last ice creams at Tooty Fruity and enjoys the sights and sounds.

Ethan leaves

Ethan had a long journey home via Miami over 2 days of travel. We managed to get his covid testing done in time plus get all the necessary travel documents submitted. Travel these days is a right pain! Unless of course you sail. We went with Ethan to the airstrip and saw him off. It was sad seeing him leave. When people leave there is always a void left behind.

“Change is the essence of life.”  —  Anatole France

“The consequences of your life are sown in what you do and how you behave.” —  Tom Shadyac

 

The photo album for the post is here–>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3nG8MPEeNSuNAbz6

The underwater photos are here–>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/bh98gPcjxmXuqGrE9

Aeeshah has finally left Guatemala, but I am sure we will return one day. It was with mixed feelings saying goodbye on the dock and leaving our berth, sad, but exciting too.

The Leaving

We headed straight downriver, across the lake and down the canyon/gorge towards Linvingston.

As always it was a magical journey, just incredibly beautiful. 

In Livingston our agent Raul was ready for us. Once he had taken our passports, and had a tuk-tuk drop us off at the Clinic for our covid tests he said to meet at 2:30 to receive our zarpe. As expected our tests were negative and we headed to lunch. It was a very mediocre hamburger lunch. Reminder to self: don’t eat there again. Livingston was very busy with New Year visitors, businesses were doing well.

As soon as we had our documents we headed back out to Aeeshah, pulled the anchor and headed for the bar – mouth of the river. When ever leaving the Rio Dulce most sailboats need to take into account the high tide. Normally folks aim for the full or the new moons when the tide is at its highest; otherwise you have to be hauled across by a launcha with a line attached to your mast – not fun! The normal tide does not offer enough depth to get over the bar at the mouth of the river. It was December 29th and we were headed for the high of the new moon. On this day we never saw less than 5″ under the keel. It was a smooth exit for us!

Over to Tres Puntas we headed where we spent a calm peaceful night. Just after dawn we headed to Punta Gorda. 

Punta Gorda, Belize

Again the conditions were benign. Anchoring off the village we dinghied ashore, tied up at the Port Authority dock and were met by an official. He directed us to a picnic table to await the health personal. Overall the check procedure took just 2 hours.

Never had we had such a calm, easy check out, overnight, crossing and check in to Belize.

Our first evening was spent at an anchorage just outside New Haven. It was lovely to be back out at anchor.

Placencia

Placencia was our port of call the next day. There we went ashore and reacquainted ourselves with the village. Our walk of choice was to head from Yolli’s towards the village dock, down the World’s Longest Sidewalk, then circle back to the village via the roadway. Nothing had changed, Placencia was just as lovely as always. 

Our son Gavin contacted us and proposed that Ethan come and join us for a month before he starts the Police Academy. We jumped at the opportunity to have Ethan visit. 

Ethan visits

Ethan arrived on the 8th January. He flew to Placencia from Belize city on a Maya plane. It is always a thrilling experience flying on those little planes. We met him at the airstrip and headed back to Aeeshah. 

The next 2 days were spent getting Ethan settled and making sure we were stocked up for a few weeks out in the cays. He had been to Placencia twice before with us.

We stocked up on all the foods we would need, plus more. Walked around the village, revisited all the familiar sites, enjoyed special foods like Flat Jacks and Italian ice-creams and were soon ready to leave.

Pelican Cays

First stop was the Pelican Cays. We were actually on our way to Blue Ground Range, but the wind turned to right on the nose and meant we were ploughing upwind so Pelican Cays it was, and just as well as the wind really increased. This is a deep anchorage of 60 feet or so.. There is an option to use a mooring that belongs to Hideaway Cay, but these were taken so anchoring behind the cays for protection was our only choice. There ended up being several other boats at anchor, all charter cats, one of which ended up next to us…….

Well during the night around 1:00am the wind rose, it must have been blowing over 25ks at least. John was in the cockpit checking our position when he watched the neighbouring cat drag by. Nobody aboard was aroused, they must have been deep asleep. The cat stopped behind us and nowhere near the reef, lucky for them and us. Fortunately by the morning it was good enough for us to head to Blue Ground Range. 

Blue Ground Range

There we anchored, had lunch and went for a dinghy ride around. It was quite breezy, but the anchorage offers wonderful protection from the winds. 

The previous few years while locked down in Belize, Blue Ground had been our safe place. We are very familiar the surrounding mangrove cays. In other words we know our way around. The area is large and consist of numerous cays and canals between them. I was happy to see the ospreys were again nesting.

Right down to the furthest cay we travelled, not seeing anyone else. At the furthest end of the Range there is an old, camp where a Dutch fellow used to hang out. It’s the site of where someone at some time tried to start a resort.

The place has been vandalised even more since we last visited.

Again, looking across towards the fishing camp there wasn’t a soul about, not even a dog. From there we went past the fishing camps and saw they too were deserted.

The old guy that was always outside his hut fixing nets wasn’t around either. Back at the boat we swam in the chilly water, getting out into the freezing northerly wind brrrrr it was cold!

The following morning we headed ashore to explore another cay, really to show Ethan what the cay had to offer. Really we were passing time, waiting for the winds to lay down.

This cay has a small salt pond, a few palm trees, lots of old reef and plenty of plastic trash that has washed in. A very sad, sad, pile of man made rubbish.

SouthWater Cay

Arriving at SouthWater cay we dropped anchor in a sandy area off the northern end of the cay. The cay looked as lovely as always, gaily painted wooden buildings, palm tree lined beach and turquoise seas.

The weather continued to look threatening. However it was calm enough behind the cay. And we know from past experience that in the sand holes the holding is excellent. Plus it cleared as quickly as it came, just fickle weather.

We snorkelled the reef along the side of the cut in the reefs to the deep.

The corals and fish were as lovely as ever. The stag horn coral on the outside is abundant. I enjoyed using my new underwater camera, experimenting with it to see what I could capture.

Honestly, 45 minutes was as long as any of us could handle as the water is  quite cool in January.

The next morning we went ashore to walk around Southwater.

There are several small resorts, some catering to diving holidays, some to fly-fishing and some to just relaxing. It really is a very pretty cay. This year it was much busier, tourism looks to be doing much better.

We then went off to snorkel the far side of the cut leading to the deep water.

The barrier reef surrounds Belize with several cuts that lead from the shallower water to the depths outside of many hundreds of feet. The cuts make for the best snorkelling as the water is crystal clear. I totally enjoyed my snorkel! The guys went off to the deep water,

I was snorkelling between the deep reef and the shallower reef as the light for my camera was better. Plus I find the corals just lovely. That day I was especially happy as I found a shark sleeping under a ledge of the reef. 

Sapordilla Lagoon – The Range/Reserve

We decided to head into the lagoon at Saporilla as there was another northerly heading our way, bringing cold winds and rain.

The land area at Sapordilla is called the range or reserve has been in the Belizean courts for some years. It was a grand scheme that fell flat when the money disappeared; another ponzie scheme. However there are a few large homes and there is the marina.

We can walk on the property, buy a few supplies in the marina store, buy fuel and use the showers and laundry. All of this makes it a very handy destination when the weather is unfavourable, but we anchor out in the lagoon as Chico could get up to so much mischief there. 

I enjoy walking around the reserve as there are loads of differing birds to see and animals. This time we saw a hawk, many song birds of differing colours and a coatimundis aka a coati. It was foraging in the long grasses and was quite shy of us. 

Hopkins and Sette River area

Our friends Michael and Rene off Sea Mist were in the marina and had the use of a friend’s car. They volunteered to take us grocery shopping and for a tour around the Hopkins and Sette River area.

 

We set off at 10:00ish heading 1st out of the Reserve. The driveway is 7 miles long and as is usual for Belize unpaved. The Reserve really is a massive area, 14,000 acres.

The roads to Hopkins are really quite plain, flat, lined with marshlands but it was pleasant to be driving out and about. In Hopkins we scouted for grocery stores, found one and shopped. Found another for further groceries and finally found a veg and fruit shack.

We enjoyed a very nice lunch of fish and chips at …….  Then it was off for a leisurely drive along the Sette River track and back to the Reserve.

 

Our last month?

PHOTO Album —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KF67CW62tnjByBfr6

Our time in Guatemala has been coming to an end….Or so we think. We have enjoyed our last few weeks just doing the regular routine of yoga 3 times a week,

walks along the pipeline trail, when the weather permitted,

river travel to an from where ever we go, meeting friends for Taco Tuesday lunch and preparing for Christmas. 

We met up with friends Janet and Chris to walk the trails at Tijax. This is another Marina and hotel, difference is that it also has a rubber plantation and walking trails up to a look out on top of the hill. It’s a very pleasant walk, starting off on over hanging platforms through the mangroves where their cabanas are found.

From there you take the “park” entrance and walk another hanging platform over the swampy area before the hillside to the small museum.

The museum is small and offers information about the natural life found in the area. Next we walked through the jungle, uphill and downhill, over streams, and sawn logs until we reached the hilltop.

Ahead was the rubber plantation and further uphill the lookout, called Torre de Shaman.

From the lookout we had a grand view out over the Rio and across the forested expanses to Belize. 

The path returns via another direction where you cross several long hanging walkways in the jungle canopy.

Only two at a time can cross the walkways. The treetops are lovely, looking down I even spied a beautiful purple orchid.

After these hanging walkways we once again joined the pathway downhill and back to the Marina. It was a wonderful morning walk, lots to see and wonderful scenery.

A friend had bought a small, old marina and we were invited to go and have a peek at it.

It was the day he took over the property and it had been sitting neglected for quite a while. He has intentions of setting up a repair business there.

The place has lots of potential, he is young and talented so we are sure he will do well. – Best wishes Chris!

 

We had become so entrenched with the local community that we were invited to a baby Zaida’s christening and to waitress Dianna’s wedding. We didn’t make it to the Christening, but contributed towards her future.

John went with a group from Catamaran to Dianna’s wedding. He reported back that it was very nice but a one time only event for him. Everyone said they had an enjoyable time.

We put up our Christmas decorations and readied for Christmas. The 1st seasonal event was the staff party which was organised by several fellow cruisers here at Catamaran.

It was a fun happenstance with tamales, (the traditional Christmas food here), and cakes for feasting. We presented the staff with a tin of cookies and a gift of cash each.

Next there was a raffle of gift cards for the local grocery store La Torre. It was a fun afternoon for all. 

The next Christmas event was the Christmas Day breakfast of Eggs Benedict  which was made by Chris a fellow cruiser who is a chef.

The eggs and fruit served were amazing! We sat with Derick and Carol and had a lovely breakfast. 

At  5:00pm we had the cruiser Christmas Day dinner.

This was turkey, stuffing, mash potato and gravy dinner that was made by a group of 6 or so cruisers and accompanied by side dishes and desserts made by everyone. We again sat with Derick and Carol, and had a lovely evening. 

Several of us at the marina had been feeling poorly. Out of 8, 5 tested negative and the other 3 didn’t test. We were all certain it was a cold circulating. Luckily for me Jessica who owns a canvas shop volunteered her local recipe for a cold. She gave the ingredients and instructions to Trish who promptly made up the potion. I inhaled the hot fumes, drank a bit of it and continued to inhale and drink. For me it was like a miracle I felt soooo much better.

Recipe for cold

Cinnamon, tiny piece of ginger and lemon grass. Add cinnamon and ginger to a liter of boiling water then add lemon grass, cut up into pieces. Boil for 2 minutes. Inhale steam, drink some and store the rest in the fridge.

We were surprised on our last evening by a going away cake and well wishes at the pool bar. It was lovely of everyone to come and wish us good bye.

We will sorely miss the Rio Dulce, Catamaran and all of our wonderful friends, local and imported cruisers. We do feel we will be back, but who knows when? Chico will be heartbroken to leave his only land home the wonderful Catamaran Marina.

“People are opportunities. The gift is in the interaction and the connection with another person, whether it lasts forever or not.”  – Colleen Seifert

“I believe that when you stop renewing, and are no longer open to change and the possibilities that continually unfold, you stop being alive and are just getting through the years.” – Oprah

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>.     https://photos.app.goo.gl/WsG3SduXwScnnVzS8

Possibly our last month in Rio Dulce?? We are not sure…..

Prepping to leave

We had/have just a few things to organise before we left Guatemala. As we have plans for travel further afield this year we needed our insurance updated. For this we planned to meet our surveyor near his home in Cayo Quemado.

We motored down river and went to Texas Mike’s place for dinner. John having his favourite, chicken fried steak, which is actually fried pork in a crust of breadcrumbs with gravy. He assures me it tastes great.

Well, our surveyor never came and we couldn’t get ahold of him, so back to Catamaran we went. He eventually arrived some days later….And yes, we have our survey. It’s actually brilliant.

Visit to Grutas El Encanto

With our Catamaran family of friends we went to Grutas El Encanto for the day. It is actually what it’s name implies grottos/caves that have an underwater stream where you can enter and explore.

The guide takes you deep underground where he tells you all about the stalactites, stalagmites and other cave phenomenon.

I didn’t do the underground exploration as I had a few open sores on my feet and that water is not the cleanest. However John went, was the camera man and reported it was interesting, there were a lot of bats flying about and some of the group covered themselves with mud for beauty purposes……

We, Steve and I, the ones who didn’t go, explored around the grounds and chatted.

Once everyone was back, cleaned up and dried we all had a delicious lunch. I loved the nachos! 

Birthday time

We always celebrate birthdays at the marina. But I dislike fuss, plus I prefer to do something, usually a trip or an adventure. This year, the weather was somewhat rainy and we really had spent so many days away I opted for a very low key birthday. We had a walk around Fronteras.

It is such a colourful little town, always lots of action, noises, music, folks buzzing about their daily business, selling every imaginable item, full of colour of every flavour…. Around the back lanes, under the bridge and then down the main streets where there is virtually no room to move due to all the people and traffic.

That day I looked for a new bag to carry my camera. I found a good one in one of the stores off the main street. One of the stores, where it seems absolutely everything can be found, as it crammed floor to ceiling with merchandise.

My second desire was to visit Mega Paca, this is the huge second hand merchandise chain in Guatemala. There I found some nearly new sleeveless shirts. After which we had a very nice lunch at a cafe.

Returning to the marina Muriel surprised me with a wonderful carrot cake. So, I had to share, and took slices to the pool bar for everyone to enjoy.

Mavi’s birthday was celebrated with a surprise party at the pool bar. She is the manager of the hotel and marina. We have known her for many years. It was a lovely celebration with the staff and cruisers enjoying the foods and drinks together for an hour. 

Walks on pipeline

With the slightly cooler temperatures we once again started our pipeline walks. The pipeline actually runs from Mexico all the way through, across the Rio and to Purto Barrios.

The roadway/track that runs along side it for a ways runs from a village near Fronteras all the way to Esmirelda, a village across the river from the marina.

There, many of the plantation workers live, plus there are many very luxurious homes of the extremely wealthy. For example the owner of Gallo beer and Tiago cellular companies…..folks with helicopters, mega motor yachts and such.

This little roadway can be very bumpy with huge potholes being created when we get heavy rains, plus deep mud in the hollows. So we were not really surprised to find that the roadway was being resurfaced, using brand new equipment. 

I enjoy this roadway as it is normally very quiet with just the rubber plantation or palm oil plantation folks about. This means you can often spot birds.

Another walk we enjoy is out of Fronteras towards the Castile/Castle. We enjoy this road on Sunday’s when there is less traffic.

The dreaded mining company uses the El Estor branch of this roadway for trucking their mining spoils. Huge trucks of ore lumber by at quite a dangerous rate.

The drivers are amused when blowing/blasting their horns on passing, stirring up dust and expelling fumes. On Sunday’s there is much less traffic.

We pass the cocoa plantation, a palm oil plantation and then do the circuit through the village by the Castile. Again there is lots to see….. 

On another day, we enjoyed a nearly traffic free walk. This one through Fronteras and over the bridge, under and back with virtually no traffic as there were demonstrations.

The folks here demonstrate by blocking the roads to all traffic. This really annoys many people, but gets the attention of the necessary departments. This Demonstration was concerning the mining companies. They are guilty of much of the environmental destruction in the area, poisoning part of the lake, and rivers, destroying the lands, taking ownership of the land that is rightfully the indigenous folks property. The trucks tear up the roads, drive dangerously and disregard the locals. They are owned, not by Guatemalans, but Russians, Ukrainians and believe it or not the Swiss. They do not care about Guatemala, just the mining rights. Lately, the story is that they have bribed a government official in order to “explore” an entire mountains side. Hopefully the locals get their way and those folks are stopped. 

Zaida’s baby

One day John, Derek and I went with Steve to see Zaida and her baby. Zaida is one of the Catamaran workers who we have known for years. Her babe is called Zaida too, she’s very little being just 5lbs when she was born.

We were welcomed and seated inside. Steve held the baby and we all were treated to mosh. Mosh is an oatmeal drink, made from oats. It is very nutritious and its milky flavour very nice. Zaida also showed us the pottery she paints and then sells.

Our plans keeps shifting due to the covid situation and the difficulty getting in and out of countries. However, we hope to leave near the end of December. Sailing through Belize, maybe stopping at isla Mujares, but landing in Marathon, Florida. Once there we intend to buy a few necessary odds and ends for Aeeshah. Leaving there we would hope to go to the Bahamas, before heading to Panama. But who knows what will be………

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/w5xQsdkhQB2QTKQq9

Tuesday

The day’s main task was to sell cattle. The buyer and extra crew arrived by 9:00.

The men had been out and rounded up the waiting cattle that had been in the field next to the house, herding them into the field by the corral.

They drove them into the pen by the corral. The mud was nearly as deep as some of the cattle stomachs, one went down and was dragged out by a lasso around the neck, poor guy, looked busted, but he did get up again.

The cattle were then herded into the next corral which led to the chute. Through the chute, they were pushed/encouraged/prodded along to the gate.

We were right there, Jack using the electronic wand to read the numbers. John writing the numbers, (each bull has a tag attached to it’s ear with all it’s information there); my job was to read out all the numbers: the bull’s number, identification and weight. 

The bulls needed to be over 900lbs or close to it to sell. We went through just over 100 bulls during the morning and from them there were just under 2 truck loads, they needed 16 bulls per truck.

The largest from the group were found by their tag numbers, lassoed, added to the group until they had 32 bulls the average weight of 906lbs.

Those rancheros were amazing! Their riding skills the best ever, they were like one with their hoses. The horses nimble and so fluid. One ranchero had his dog with him. The dog was nearly as good as the ranchero. he really knew his stuff!

Those poor bulls were off to market.

The next step for the cattle buyer and the men was to herd the sold 32 head of cattle through the jungle path up the mountain to the awaiting trucks from there they headed to market – Guatemala City.

We did hear one of the trucks got stuck in mud…… (I learnt that most of the cattle are trucked from Central American countries, eg Guatemala, El Salvador and trucked through Mexico. Fattened up on corn grain imported into the US. Shot full of growth hormones then slaughtered as American beef).

While Jack finished off the sale we went out on the ATV, to find his special walking stick he had left behind the previous day. We used the 3 wheeler again, went through the gate, across the very soggy field that was getting quite churned up by the bulls,

through another gate, an even muddier field all the way to the creek. There we retrieved the stick, and headed back.

After our lunch Jack and John went off on the same cross country ATV machine to follow the border out to where the excavator guy, Jose was digging ditches for drainage.

This is actually a full time job. So far 35 kilometres of ditch has been dug to drain the fields. They had quite a time, getting stuck and unstuck in the mud, both of them were covered in mud after.

 Me, I tidied up, read, wrote and got ready to make dinner. When John and Jack returned they took the big excavators out for exercise,

John drove a huge excavator into one of the fields, around and back, his 1st ever experience driving a huge excavator. (It had been used previously to make/excavate Jack’s airstrip.)

Wednesday

Today we were injecting bulls with dewormer, (that one that some folks are taking for covid lol) and other necessary meds, weighing them, recording their tags and registration numbers. We needed to complete a minimum of 200 head of cattle.

Now, we arise everyday with the sun, yep, Jack’s making coffee before 6:00am. The men go out before 7:00am to round-up  the day’s 200 odd bulls.

The first 100 odd were brought to the outer corral. They then are herded, pushed, prodded through into the second corral where the chute is located. This can take several rounds of trying to get them into the corral, bulls are not the most cooperative of animals.

Into the chute the first 10 or so go.

This can be a very unpredictable situation, the bulls jump on each other, crush each other, push, shove, rear, go backwards, somehow manage to turn half around, get their legs stuck in the bars, just so many possible scenarios.

Fortunately, there were only a couple of ugly situations where they got into impossible situations and by lunch just one poor little white bull with a broken leg, who had to be put down. 

The rancheros directed the bulls into the shoot then climbed the sides, injecting them with 3 different medications. The bulls really did not like getting injected.

My job was checking and reading the electronic recorder numbers to John. 1st the bulls number, 2nd his weight, and 3rd the last 4 digits of his registration. John’s task to find the number on the list, check it, write the weight and check the registration.

Meanwhile Jack used the wand to get the number from the red ear tag and when I pressed record he opened the chute gate, staying out of the bulls way. 

We did two shifts, one hundred plus in the morning, had lunch, then back out into the hot sun and did a second shift of over another one hundred – total of 226. Many of these were the younger, newer bulls which were more difficult we were told.

Then it was back to the house, for John and I a nice cup of tea. Following which John and Jack went off to start up tractors and I had a wonderful shower getting rid of all the bull dust and dirt aka BS.

Thursday

The main objective was to finish the herd, injections, tag, registration count and weight taking – of about 230 more bulls to do. As per yesterday the rancheros drove the rest of the herd in to the corrals.

 

This morning there seemed to be less fuss. I was told it was because most of these were older, and so had been through the process a few times.

All went well until we had one crazy physio bull. He got right up to the end of the chute, just before he was to enter the weigh bay he forced his head around, flipped up and got half way over the bars at the top. He was standing on the others and the sides of the bay.

He crashed down on a couple of others, was facing the wrong way, tried to charge out past all the others, of about 8 of them, causing a right pile up of bulls, with him on top, being unpredictable and dangerous. Believe it or not the rancheros got the ones beneath him out and down the chute to us, we read their info and weight and released them. Next the men forced the mad bull backwards down the chute into the weigh bay where he was finally read, weighed and released….… Everyone rancheros included got well out of the way when he was released.

The readings and weighing did go faster meaning that we were finished the 130 odd by 11:30 doing as much in the morning as took us all day the day before — easier cattle.

Our total was 438, making 12 unaccounted for. Jack had 800, but had sold off half over the year.

The afternoon was a quiet one, Jack paying off the men, checking his airstrip. John doing odd jobs, me getting packed up, watching for birds

and gazing out across the ranch watching the weather move in. The clouds approached from the northwest, gradually covering the sky,

the wind rose, the temperature dropped by about 15 degrees, the rain never fell.

Friday

The next morning started at about 4:30, I think……we had been told there would be an early start. I heard voices outside, the workers, Jack ground his beans in the kitchen area in the bathroom, (off the sleeping area is a bathroom with an added counter and small gas cooker for Jack’s morning coffee). We took that as a sign to get up. Then we were told to put our stuff outside ready to go....I nearly didn’t even get to use the bathroom or get dressed. John went down to make breakfast, so he never got to use the bathroom as it was locked up. We gobbled breakfast, washed up, everything was put away and out we went to the skiff.

Meanwhile a hog had walked past with a few men and was being put into a kayuko.

It was a very hasty goodbye to the ranch, the stuff was loaded, stacked in the skiff with a tiny bit of room for us. By 7:00 we were headed out. 

The passengers this day were ourselves, Jack, Juan again, Lucy his wife and 4 of her prized turkeys. 

Back down the canals, past the kayuko with the pig,

through the next 2 canals and out onto the river. The journey was just as beautiful on the return. Birds galore, in fact John and I saw a Questrel in the air above us, it’s long distinctive forked tail below it.

Once back at the ramp it was a reverse of when we arrived. Unpack the launcha, fuel up the gas containers, load up the jeep and off we go.

Back down the humpy, bumpy road towards Fronteras and Aeeshah.

It was one of the best trips ever. I just adored my time at Jack’s ranch….why? I love living simply, in wide open spaces surrounded by nature, able to observe all of the wonders around me.

Sitting on the top porch, watching the birds, the workers, the sheep, bulls, dogs, clouds, trees and the changing weather was wondrous for me.

John too loved the space, the totality of the space, but surrounded by jungle, mountains and the river with the sound of howler monkeys to fall asleep and wake up to.

Humankind has not woven the web of life. We are but one thread within it. Whatever we do to the web, we do to ourselves. All things are bound together. All things connect. 

Chief Seattle

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>> Off to Jack’s Ranch Pt1 — https://photos.app.goo.gl/w6Wszr3v93vUkSvy5

I found out we were going to Jack’s ranch 3 days before we headed out, and then knew virtually nothing of what to expect. All I heard was that, John had been chatting with Jack at the pool bar and expressed interest in his ranch, so an invitation was extended. The only other info I was given: it’s like camping and it’s work. Plus I needed wellington boots. Luckily for me Muriel and Tuddy had some for me to try out. 

Sunday

Off to La Torre we went to meet Jack, me with mixed expectations.

The journey to Jack’s ranch for me, was magical. We met Jack at La Torre for 10:00am. He told us what we might need in the way of foods, snacks, drinks and extras…not much really, as the jeep was already fully loaded with supplies. After which we hit the trail, heading down the main road out of Fronteras towards Belize.

This road wanders through settlements, past small farms and homes. It’s a very beaten way with deep potholes from the mining trucks, which Jack tried to avoid, often having to dodge across the road, around large trucks and slower traffic. 

Arriving at a muddy, potholed track, which we followed to the end where we saw the river. Jack’s man Juan had brought the river boat, a flat-bottomed skiff to pick us up, plus all the gear Jack had brought. I did sort of wonder how we all and it all was going to fit.…

Before we set off the propeller had to be changed on the skiff, as Juan had had a few mishaps and so the one on the skiff was all bent up.

Next we unloaded the jeep, Juan retrieved numerous empty gas containers from the skiff, which were then put in the jeep and off we drove to fill them with fuel.  Meanwhile Juan had to load everything into the skiff. Once we returned to the skiff we finished loading up with the fuel, climbed in and we were off down river. 

To the right was Guatemala, to the left Belize. There was absolutely nothing but thick dense jungle on the Belize side, while at first there were pastures and fields with a few trees on the Guatemalan side.

We saw virtually nobody else, just 2 kayuckos with solitary fishermen.

Further on there were no buildings, or homes of any type on the either side, just jungle.

It was very much the middle of nowhere. We sped along for 24 miles down river to get to Jack’ place taking about 1 1/2 hours.

However well before we got to the turn off, Jack said the property line began. He has 3,300 acres, but farms/ranches only 1/3 of it and the rest is jungle.

So, we suddenly swooped to the right, and into this small canal we shot, still at full speed. This canal was narrow with trees and mangroves along the side with their branches above creating a green tunnel.

After a few minutes we swooped into another bend and down another canal, this one as beautiful but with less foliage to dodge. Jack told us the  United Fruit Company, (now Chiquita Brands International), originally dug the ditch back in the 1960s.

Still further along while still going full speed we turned again, this ditch was cleared of the trees on either side and had been excavated by Jack and his men……it was the canal leading to the farm. There in the distance we could see the farm buildings.

The country side is just breathtakingly beautiful. Birds of numerous types swooping all around, the green of the fields, the elegant tall trees, the wooden farm buildings with the mountains behind, blue sky just behind all paint a surreal picture out in there in the middle of nowhere. 

We settled in, I made sandwiches for lunch, we made beds, packed foods away and got acquainted with where we would be bunking for the next 5 days.

Yes, it was very rustic, frugal but also functional. 

I just found the surroundings astoundingly beautiful and a feast for my eyes. Just sitting on the porch watching the birds swoop by, the turkeys wandering past, the sheep and cattle grazing was pure entertainment.

But we were to be off, out on the ATV buggy, Jack on front, John driving and me sitting behind, zooming through the fields, through the long water soaked grass.

Yep, the fields look wonderful, but they are water logged, thus the canals that run along the edges. Now at first riding along was nerve wracking, as I knew John had never driven this type of contraption before and here I was just perched on the back. We had to stop at barb wire gates to enter fields then we went up the sides of the fields onto the ramps above the drainage canals. 

Why were we doing this? Apparently, not for entertainment, we were out going along these boundary lines looking to see if there were any problems. Jack was observing work that had been completed and work that needed to be completed.

For example dredging to drain the fields of as much water as possible or clearing the weeds from the grass for the cattle. At one huge hole in the mud we became stuck, we finally got going again, but John lost his nerve and Jack took over driving.

Riding along the top of these ridges was mighty scary at first, as you have deep mud to the right and deep muddy water at the bottom on right, neither way do you want to fall.

We did one whole borderline and then went back and headed to the creek.

Well, just before the creek we got really stuck deep in the mud. Jack dug in deep with the throttle, the wheels spun and finally we were out of the mud hole, but me being on the back was covered in black mud, just covered! Even some on my camera, but I knew to leave the mud, let it dry and hopefully shake it off. It was to be my initiation to the mud of Jack’s ranch.

Back at the ranch, I managed to shed the boots, drop the clothes and climb into the shower to rid myself of all the mud. 

Dinner is early so that we avoid the mosquitoes and have some light. We ate on the front porch and then retired upstairs for the rest of the evening. Reading, gazing out across the fields, chatting and relaxing were the evening pastimes.

Monday

What a morning!! …… Up at daylight with the birds, lovely sunrise, howler monkeys crying in the distance from the mountains, sheep bleating and turkey gobbling all around.

Scrambled eggs and toast to eat and tea for me, coffee for them before we hit the trail. The men – rancheros arrived and went off to drive a herd of cattle back to the nearby fields to ready for weighing for market. 

As soon as the men and 100 head of cattle returned we were off. The objective was to go by the skiff to the other farthest corner of the property, then to walk the boundary lines back. Sounded fairly normal, straight forward however I was wearing Wellington boots for the first time ever. 

The skiff took us slowly along the canal of the southern boundary. Jack and Juan discussing work to be done, changes to make etc. All the time there were numerous birds flying and swooping past. Across the fields you could see all types of birds, some I’d never seen before, like a huge Wood Stork.

Along the sides of the canal, water lilies grew and thousands of crabs crawled along with huge insects into the grasses to hide.

And then we were at the corner where we climbed onto the muddy bank.

Now those fields look like lovely green pastures that one could gallop a horse across, but they are not. They are full of water, which makes deep mud in the hollows. They have stumps, rotten logs, deep holes, boulders and snakes.

You have to pick your feet up high, pulling the boots out of mud while stumbling over the long grass, logs and boulders all of which are wet. Damn hard work! All the while following the group, trying to keep up plus take a few pictures, in the sweltering hot sun, not a stroll in the park, more a slog in the mud. 

We followed the boundary line of barbed wire, “field” to the one side and jungle to the other. Again this was a reconnaissance mission for Jack, checking the state of the fields, checking the work that had been accomplished through the month, looking for what needs to be completed. Here his main concern was the state of the grass.

This grass was cane grass which had grown head height and had gone to seed. Also the weed that was growing between was not good. Well, it didn’t take me long to feel tired. It was still early, 8:30, but getting just so hot. I kept up pretty well, but could tell I wouldn’t be able to continue all morning. (Found out later the temperature was in the low 90sF) We saw a few of Jack’s water buffalo in the distance. And I learned they can be dangerous too.

There was a whistle and a call, the group of workers that were out spraying had found a fallen bull. Oh, the poor animal, it’s leg had slipped into a hole and broken. It couldn’t get up and was in so much pain, his eyes were glazed in pain. The decision was made that the butcher was to be called, Mr Bull was to be put down and his meat sold. (Apparently he went for about $210 he was about 600lbs in weight.) 

Off again we trudged, the terrain became muddier from the streams running off the mountains, they called them creeks and under ground rivers.

Crossing streams, creeks whatever, my boots would get so stuck nearly to the knee that I thought I’d never get free. The mud just sucks you down, then you loose your balance and if your not careful down you go. I never fell, but many times I needed assistance to get out of the mud. 

Jack’s objective was to walk the border, climb to the ridge, look out, climb down, walk the rest of the boundary back. However, he had also arranged for one of the fellows to bring a skiff down one of the canals, to walk across and meet us incase we needed to go back with him.

By this time I’d had enough and over heating, all my water gone. It was getting close to 10:30 and I’d had enough……so I jumped at the chance to return.

John too was exhausted, told me he was shattered, he chose to return, but Jack went on, he needed to see the boundary. 

The walk to the skiff was still challenging. Believe it or not we had to retrace some of out tracks and then walk the edge of another muddy canal crossing several very muddy ditches. But Jose, who was with us would help me across all the obstacles.

The sight of the skiff was very comforting indeed, I could not have continued much further.

John too was very tired, we just sank onto the hot ,muddy, seats and enjoyed the breeze as we drove home along canals to the ranch.

Enjoying the magnificent scenery all around us. Just amazingly beautiful, wild, free…

Once there we both downed a cold coke and rested our tired bones. 

John had to take the 4 wheel drive back out to meet Jack along the boundary at the creek.

I literally just dropped my boots, shed my clothes and stood under the cold shower, that cold water felt so good. 

The afternoon was much quieter. John and Jack worked on the mule, fitting a system for spraying the fields. I relaxed, read, wrote, tidied up and watched them working on the mule. 

Evening again was quiet, early dinner of soup and delicious tortillas that Maria had made followed by a game of Rummikub.

We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. 

Mike Robbins

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience

 Eleanor Roosevelt

 

PHOTO Album—>>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/vhU6xpMHaqDaHVn9A

Tales from the month

Upon our arrival in Guatemala our driver William was there waiting and ready to go, 6 hours later and we were back in Fronteras and over, via Steve’s launcha, to Catamaran Marina and our Aeeshah. Chico was up at the bar, typical social cat that he is….

Life was pretty much back to normal within the first day. Getting Aeeshah sorted and cleaned, grocery shopping, walking around the island and such.

House sitting

We had agreed to care for Vickle and Jim’s dog Flaca and their lovely home while they went to the US for a few weeks. Their place is down river from Catamaran at the end of a tributary.

They have built it from scratch. Everything was transported there by water as there are no roads. There is a tiny airstrip behind the park that is behind their property and a few neighbours.

John’s day

John would leave daily to get to Catamaran early to feed the cats, Ginger and Tuk Tuk and of course our Chico. He would have his morning coffee with the regulars and then get to task on Aeeshah.

His time was spent preparing the cabin’s wood work for revarnishing. 1st, Stripping, sanding and filling the woodwork, which made a big dusty mess. Following was a clean up and then the varnishing of everything.

He finished within 10 days or so, the woodwork looks lovely! He moved on to a few other boat jobs.

Jen’s typical day

Meanwhile my routine………..

consisted of taking Flaca for a walk along the walkway that runs through the area where Vickie and Jim live. We would bird watch, sometimes squirrel hunt,

other times look for butterflies, exotic birds and of course plane spot if one was landing or taking off. 

Next we would have breakfast, I would tidy up and Flaca would sleep. I managed to get all of the sewing repairs completed, plus a new gas tank cover made and alterations to other boat awnings completed. 

Meanwhile I started a new project, scanning old photos. The scanner is a very good photo scanner and as most gadgets nowadays it is complicated, with so many variations and settings that it took me about three days just to figure out the basic software. However I started scanning and have learnt to use the auto settings for now as they bear good results and are easy. My objective is to scan all the old family photos….

John would often return for lunch and then head back to Catamaran for the afternoon returning again in the early evening. I would resume with my projects and head out for a late afternoon,  or early evening stroll with Flaca.

We observed many different birds, Green Parrots, hummingbirds, migrating Orioles, Kiscadees and  so many others, wonderful reflections, odd impressions…… 

On the few days that Chico the ground’s man and Maria the housekeeper came to the house John and I would head out to do our shopping or to visit Catamaran. 

On my second day at Vickie and Jim’s I was asked, along with Chico the ground’s man, to attend to a funeral. A friend of Vickie called Kathie had lost her best friend and he needed to be buried. The launch arrived with Kathie, a little girl and her Dad from the marina where they live, plus the casket with Cotta inside. After some debate an appropriate spot was found, the hole dug and Cotta buried.

One night just after falling asleep we were awakened by a large bang, and then the power died. John went and put on the small generator so the fans would work. The next morning there was a dead possum under one of the utility poles. Poor possum was electrocuted, thus the power outage. By the afternoon a vulture had arrived.

On one of our last days at Flaca’s place we saw a very funny sight. One of the monkeys from the neighbour’s property was walking around as if he owned the place. meanwhile the folks from there were all swimming in the river…..

Steve had a birthday celebration and Zaida was given a baby shower,

Catamaran had a Friends of Rio Dulce River sale of second hand items to raise cash for the many good causes the charity pursues. John helped to set up and sell the goods. Plus we had our first Mexican Train Dominoes game since July.

Those were the few social happenings as many folks are still away.

And before we knew it we were back at Catamaran……

“I don’t have to be perfect. All I have to do is show up and enjoy the messy, imperfect, and beautiful journey of my life. It’s a trip more wonderful than I could have imagined.” 

Kerry Washington

 

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/K3U5Kuce1iz9X47u6

Fern Island camp 

Camping at Fern Island has been a family tradition since approximately 1985. Back then we would pack up the children, our animals, supplies, tents and food heading off to Fern Island for a few weeks of camp. It was a very rustic camp originally, now there is a toilet, be it a hand pumped toilet. Plus inside has new mattresses on the bed frames, there is a great barbecue and a gas burner stove for cooking. We used to cart out our own barbecue, small camp stove and propane tank.

Gavin, our son, runs/organises the camp these days. John went out on the Thursday to help Gavin mow the grass, set up and prep for us all to arrive.

John and I went out on the Friday, taking our granddaughter May and Grandson Quest with us to stay till Saturday night.

The children were literally bursting with excitement, Gavin Katie, Lily and Eve picked us up at Darrell’s wharf, Chrissie waving goodbye from the dock. She and Quest had just been cleared from nearly a month of quarantine, she was looking forward to a break and he was needing his cousins to play with. 

• Across to Fern we sped.

Already at Fern were, Audrey, Sean and their 3 girls, Melody and her 2 girls plus 2 friends. To arrive later were Daniel, Stuart and his daughter. Yes, it was a camp of mainly children.

Ours, May, Quest, Eve and Lily were hungry as it was lunch time. After quickly dropping our bags inside we had a pizza lunch.

At Fern, time is spent swimming,

watching the children and chatting/reminiscing…. The time passes quickly, soon it was dinner – platters of sushi.

Evening playtime followed and then bed in a tent.

John and I had 1 tent and facing us we had May and Quest in the other tent. The children were perfectly happy in the tent and fell off to sleep.

Later, I found sleeping on a sleeping bag on the ground to be gruelling! Just dreadful, plus several of the others, including John were still up, chatting and enjoying their drinks, their voices kept me awake too. It was a night that I decided was not to be repeated…and I was itching throughout the night, found out in the morning I had ants crawling on me too, thus the itching. The kids were up at 1st light, John had a heavy head and I was exhausted. 

We enjoyed breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon in a burrito.

The kids were happily fishing, playing games, colouring, and reading stories 

and then it was time to head off down to the dock for more swimming.

Chrissie arrived with Ruben, Kate arrived with Fabio and a friend.

Soon it was time for lunch after which most folks went off on Gavin’s boat to go and do some cliff jumping while we stayed with Chrissie and Kate and their friends.

Once again swimming between the dock and pontoon.

Plus they played with a few jet skis that had been left behind. After hours in the water everyone enjoyed relaxing around the camp, the kids watching iPads and the adults chatting…..

Everyone had a wonderful afternoon! 

Dunes and beaches

John and I enjoy walking along the dunes that are behind the beaches near our home. It’s a beautiful walk. The summer heat does make the walk challenging, but the sea breeze helps to make it more comfortable.

We walk along the dune as far as Horseshoe Bay and then back along the trails above the coves to Warwick Long Bay.

Hurricane Larry 

Came towards the island bringing high seas and raging surf.

We went to Gavin’s home at different times to sea gaze. The property sits on a peninsular by Devonshire Bay and so you get a really good feel for the surf that rolls in. It was vicious, unrelenting surf, crashing into the shore, rolling over the walls, constantly thundering seas.

One gets mesmerised standing and watching so that when a wave crashes close by it surprises you back to the present. Larry kicked up the seas, passed and became a memory.

September is a birthday month 

There was Gavin’s 44th, (unbelievable my little boy is that age); Quest’s 4th, where has time gone? And John’s 69th, damn we are clocking up the years…..

There was a small birthday celebration for Quest’s birthday at Gavin and Katie’s house. The pool is where the grandchildren wanted to be.

The girls, Lily, May and Evie are all excellent swimmers, Quest is learning. Katie had bought a slip and slide.

It was set up on the hillside near the pool. Well, it was a tremendous hit! The girls just went full out slipping and sliding. They would take a full run at the slide, dive down on it and shoot to the bottom.

I could not imagine what would have happened to me if I had tried that….but, Kate, Katie and Gavin had turns too….It really looked uncomfortable for an adult skidding to a stop on the grass at the end.

Everyone had a fun filled afternoon. 

Time to get back to our Aeeshah and Chico

Covid had started to rampage through Bermuda again. The numbers were rapidly rising, getting a leaving test was challenging, but we managed to get our negative PCR and were on our way home to Aeeshah.

“In family life, love is the oil that eases friction, the cement that binds closer together, and the music that brings harmony.” –Friedrich Nietzsche

“Other things may change us, but we start and end with the family.” –Anthony Brandt

 

PHOTO ALBUM >>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/s6yzFsJwrAozKjJ68

Out and about visiting various places

We still had a few days to stay at Gavin’s place, the girls were off with Edna, Gavin and Katie were working and as Chrissie and Quest were in quarantine we had the use of her car and free time, which is rare for us.

Hog Bay Park

Our first outing was to Hog Bay Park. At Hog Bay Park there are 32 acres of quiet, unspoiled rural land. A network of trails lead around the park where were able to follow the trails past agricultural fields,

woodlands, a lime kiln, and down the steep hillside to a lovely shoreline.

Along the shoreline the seas were a beautiful, turquoise, we then climbed upward again, back towards the fennel lined over grown trails.

Why the name “Hog Bay”? As the story goes, mariners in the 17th century dropped hogs off in this area in the hope that they’d provide a perpetual source of bacon and ham for sailors shipwrecked on Bermuda’s treacherous coral reefs. The hogs are long gone and Hog Bay, (where hogs were particularly plentiful), is now called Pilchard Bay.

We found the trails to be very over grown, but this had benefits as there were butterflies, bees and insects everywhere. I wondered if the farmer was letting the pathways by the fields go wild, to encourage pollination for the crops grown near them so they are then “organic”.

West end Dockyard and Whale Bay

We took our Granddaughter May out with us on the following day of wandering about. Our first destination was Dockyard.

Royal Naval Dockyard

“Built by Royal decree to defend British superiority on the seas, the Royal Naval Dockyard is today a resplendent place of discovery. Within the walls of this nineteenth century fortress, where troops once marched, there are now lawns, flower lined lanes, fine dining and a quaint Clocktower Mall. Where once all was war readiness, now exists an invitation to adventure. Cruise ships dock, visitors swim with dolphins, snorkel at theSnorkel Park, explore the historic National Museum of Bermuda.”

We just walked about looking at the sailboats, the Spirit of Bermuda, which the Bermuda Sloop Foundation created as a purpose-built sail training vessel that now evokes the seagoing traditions of Bermuda while providing a safe, effective, and comfortable platform for Bermudian youth.

We ended up at a very nice eatery, the Bonefish Bar and Grill having a delicious lunch of fish sandwiches. Well we thought so, but May was just interested in coloring, I think she was past being hungry, plus we had earlier given her a doughnut.

Next stop was Whale Bay Fort

Bermuda is home to many old British forts, Whale Bay Fort & Battery overlooking West Whale Bay Beach was Originally built in the mid-1700s.

The fortress once had powerful, 12-ton cannons to protect the island from invaders. The cannons are long gone, but you can still explore the fort and battery, including sturdy stone walls, troop barracks and underground storage rooms. 

We parked up and ascended the hill to the fort. Here we explored the walls, grounds and tunnels. The view was lovely. May was impatient to swim, so we soon went down to change and walk to the beach. 

Whale Beach normally offers a calm, scenic escape with craggy cliffs surrounding a stretch of Bermuda’s classic pink sand. However on that day there was a tropical storm Henri lurking off shore this meant there was a surf running. We all had a lovely swim, May especially enjoying the big surf with Papa. 

Whale Bay beach got its name as it was near the island’s whaling grounds in the 18th century. Whaling is long gone from Bermuda and the whales themselves are returning each spring, to Bermuda. I swam too, the water was as wonderful as ever.

Back at Gavin’s place the surf was powering ashore, salt spray filled the air, and the wind was blowing steadily as Henri circled around Bermuda.

Across the bay we could spy some young fellows “surfing” attempting to ride the surf. Rather dangerous as those seas can take the strongest down.

By the morning the weather was flattening out and John and I set out for yet another day of adventure.

Our first stop was Flatts.  

Flatts was a sleepy fishing village located in Hamilton Parish halfway between Hamilton City and the town of St. George, basically it is a through way now. There are beautiful pastel colored houses, regal palm trees, and lovely turquoise waters.

Under Flatts bridge the waters of Harrington Sound rush to the sea. Harrington Sound itself is almost entirely surrounded by the Bermuda mainland, and is only open to the sea at this inlet. The water is fast moving, carrying water in and out from the Harrington Sound as the tide ebbs and flows.

John and I went for a look under the bridge, often rays can be see in these waters.

We could see the bright red of the sponge growing along the rocks, but no rays that day. (You can find more than 100 types of sponge in the waters of Harrington Sound).

St David’s

Next stop was the very eastern end of Bermuda. We hadn’t visited St David’s for many years and I had a real hankering for a visit. This is the eastern most edge of Bermuda, known as St David’s Head which comprises of Great Head and Little Head Parks. 

The entire area spans across some 24 aces. David’s Battery is also found here. It was built in 1910 and went through several transformations from a small gun platform to a formidable fort that was built to defend the Narrows Channel that leads to St. George’s Harbor. 

There are still two 9.2 inch and two 6 inch caliber Breech Loader guns mounted in the battery. The guns were constructed in UK and the largest ever mounted in Bermuda. They had a range of 7 miles and could easily stop enemy ships coming close to Bermuda back in the day. However, they never had to be fired against any enemy attacks. In fact, the sound from such gunfire was so loud that the neighboring residents complained and the guns were seldom fired even for practice drills.

We really enjoyed walking through the park, looking at the guns, and over the cliff at the Head.

We followed the overgrown pathway down the cliff face to the small lookout platform below, there the seas were just so wild and beautiful. 

Back at the top we looked at the Figurehead Memorial, a lifeboat monument that stands to commemorate all the Bermudians lost at sea.

As we were in the area we drove to the St David’s lighthouse. This Lighthouse stands on the highest point on the Eastern tip of the island standing 208 feet above the sea level.

It sends its beam out 20 miles to sea. It was built in 1879 mainly to provide signals to the ships so that they didn’t come too close to the hidden reefs in the Bermuda waters. And to this day it serves as a beacon for mariners.

Clearwater and Cooper’s Island

An incredibly beautiful area of Bermuda is Clearwater and Cooper’s Island. This was our next stop. The area is famous for its quiet beaches and walking trails.

Clearwater is the first of these beaches. It has good public facilities, a restaurant and playground. 

Next to Clearwater beach is Turtle Bay Beach. This is where we parked the car. This beach has a wonderful smaller stretch of sands with interesting rock formations fringing. As you look out from the shore, you will see dark patches of turtle grass on the sea bed which provide feeding grounds for turtles and fish.

This is not a natural beach though. It is an artificial manmade beach which was created at the time of land reclamation in the mid 1900s. The land reclamation was done to build the nearby U.S Naval Air Station which was operational until 1995.The entire Cooper’s Island was then a restricted area. After the U.S closed its base, it was opened up to the public.

We walked down along Cooper’s Island Road where the beautiful Long Bay is found, we had a 250 meters beach all to ourselves. The scenery is just stunning and on this day it was spectacular.

The next beaches located close by are Annie’s Bay, Well Bay, Fort Hill Bay and Soldier Bay.

They all are picturesque beaches, which we visited after an easy stroll along the old roadway and adjoining pathways.

At the very end of the pathway you can gaze out to sea, the view never grows old, it is always awesome!

Most of these beaches are excellent for snorkeling, but that would have to be saved for another time.

As we were leaving we passed the NASA Tracking Station, it is really all that is left of the Americans in Bermuda and is said to be:

“The NASA Tracking Station at Cooper’s Island, Bermuda is a critical component of NASA’s monitoring of current and future missions, including the use of launch vehicles, which are designed to deliver satellites and rockets into orbit and supplies to the International Space Station.” Of course this area is restricted.

By this time it was early afternoon and we both were  very hungry, so it was off to St Georges.

By this time it was early afternoon and we both were  very hungry, so it was off to St Georges.

Once there we bought food from the deli, sat on a shaded bench in the town square and enjoyed our picnic lunch.

Devonshire with May

May came to Gavin’s for a morning, so we took a walk to Devonshire Bay. Of course we took Amy too. Devonshire Bay has a sheltered beach area, a slipway for the fishermen, a park and an old fort. This fort was built by the British in the 1750s. The park has been renamed Mary Prince Park after Mary Prince, the enslaved Bermudian who gained her freedom, wrote a book and became a hero of the abolitionist movement in Britain.

Our walk was peaceful and quiet under the shade trees. The views through the trees was lovely. Then May wanted to walk Amy…..and Amy decided to walk May.

It was decided that May would jog back instead.

We had a wonderful few days out and about in Bermuda.

“People often say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I say that the most liberating thing about beauty is realizing that you are the beholder.”

— Salma Hayek

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ykb5yhJw3HzzXmdv8

Our last week in Rio Dulce and Guatemala was quite hectic. I did the usual pre trip preparations making sure all was readied on Aeeshah and for Chico. Plus getting all the online applications for travel arrangements sorted, confirming what used to be simple easy trip plans and such. 

John went with Steve, Muriel, Tutty and the rest of the team on a Friend’s of Rio Dulce mission. They were to tear down and build a home for grandparents and the three young children in their care. He returned tired, filthy but very happy to have been able to help.

I also enjoyed my continued walks around Catamaran Marina, discovering that cormorants have blue eyes.

In the city

Our drive into the city was as usual with Otti tours, William being our driver and it was a quick, easy drive. Straight after arriving at our hotel we went to Blue Medical where we had our PCR tests for travel. Thank goodness the results arrived about 4 hours later. I then submitted them to the Bermuda Travel Authority for our travel permits.

To travel home we had to have applied with a clear PCR test no more than 3 days before and no less than 24 hours before. This makes the timing of traveling quite challenging. John received his within 6 hours, but mine didn’t arrive until nearly 24 hour later. Basically we were at Guatemala Airport on our way to Atlanta before I finally received my Travel permit! 

Atlanta airport was an unbelievable mess of humanity. They had shut one terminal so we had to walk to another, along with hundreds of others, queuing up in corridors, then packed into a large arrivals hall with hundreds of folks. The USA really doesn’t get the whole idea of how contagious covid is….. We are vaccinated, but I bet many others there weren’t and there were many not wearing their masks over their noses…..

Our over night in Atlanta passed quickly and then we were on our way home to Bermuda. Flying into Bermuda one passes over the beautiful reefs and turquoise waters before glimpsing the island’s spread out before you.

It is always wonderful to fly in. The airport was amazingly organised, you show your covid documents, pass down immigration lines, collect bags, pass through customs no declaration line and out to the testing line. There you leave your bags aside, go into the testing area, have a PCR and then out of the terminal. Overall it didn’t even take 1/2 an hour, and everyone has a mask on, everything is clean and there is no crowding. 

To Gavin and Katie’s home

Gavin picked us up and took us back to the apartment which is attached to his and Katie’s home. There we awaited our all clear from the landing test, which came via an email the next morning stating negative. We did have to have tests on days 4 and 10, but again this took 10 minutes, was painless and negative. 

Caring for Lily and Evie

At Gavin and Katie’s home we stayed until August 21st when our last guests left our Airbnb. Our early arrival was planned so that we could care for our granddaughters Lily and Evie while Gavin and Katie travelled to a friend’s celebration weekend in Charleston.

So, we had one full day with them learning the ropes and then they left. We were very fortunate to have the help of Edna the Nanny for the first 2 days.

For the most part all went well, we all went for the day 4 covid test, into Hamilton, (the girls had been in California before we arrived).

We did a walk to Devonshire Bay and the fort, sucking Honey Suckle along the way,

they played, swam in the pool, our daughter Kate visited with our granddaughter May,

everyone played and the days passed. John even took the girls to a birthday party

while I cleaned our Airbnb.

Before we knew it Katie and Gavin returned, did their isolation for results, received negative results and took over again. 

Now everyone must be wondering what about Chrissie and Quest, where were they?

Unfortunately, Quest’s pre school was shut due to a covid outbreak. This was just before we arrived, so poor Quest and Chrissie along with our grandson Ethan who lives with them were quarantined for 2 weeks. Now this might seem extreme, but 12 days into the quarantine Chrissie who is vaccinated lost her sense of smell and taste, felt very ill and tested positive. They were then quarantined for a further 12 days! All of this came about due to a family who arrived back in Bermuda and the parents sending their child to school instead of quarantining. We all felt so sad forChrissie, Quest and Ethan as they were missing out on all the cousin fun.