Aeeshah

 

PHOTO LINK —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6GNBCazKniKArnP6

Isla Mujares to Marathon Florida

Both John and I were keen to leave Isla Mujares. We had enjoyed our time there, and touched base with other friends who were also there. It was time to head out. A weather window was opening, giving us 3 – 4 days of favorable winds followed by yet another norther/front. Neither one of us wanted to go through another front/norther in Isla Mujares anchorage.

During the previous front we had dragged at night, been awoken by Jim our neighbour, had to reanchor. Then John had to stay in the cockpit all night while the wind raged looking out for other dragging boats while worrying about ours. Followed by one and a half days of staying aboard due to bad winds, dragging again and reanchoring. (Dragging with 200ft of chain out in 15 ft of water tells how bad the holding was) We were well ready to leave. 

The passage:

Heading out were a number of other folks that we knew. 2 boats headed to Cuba, 1 boat to Bimini, Bahamas, another headed to Tampa Florida and us to Marathon. 

The first day out was a Sunday it was the regular getting used to the sailing routine again. The Sunday night was very challenging. We had headed towards the Cuban coast as it was supposed to be more sheltered. However this was not the case and the winds were way stronger than predicted, the seas much larger and very testy. It was not a good nights sail. The following day Monday, made up for it by being everything we could have asked for. Followed by a wonderful Monday night in which to cross the Gulf Stream again. The next day Tuesday was again a lovely day sail for half the day and then a bit of a plough up wind to our anchorage in the Marquesas Keys.

After a wonderfully calm night’s sleep we set off for another anchorage 30 odd miles away and again enjoyed a calm evening and restful sleep. 

The following morning we headed to Marathon where Boot Key harbour marina is located. There wasn’t a lot of wind so we were motor sailing. Then an alarm went off! It was one of the smoke detectors from the engine compartment. Umm, John decided we could continue as it seemed not to be too bad….Chico became anxious, meowing, not happy at all. The smoke became worse and we had to stop and drop the anchor. There we were just off 7 Mile Bridge about an hour away from Marathon, stuck.

We tried Sea Tow, but to no avail. John decided to see what he could do. The smoke was coming from a newly blown hole in the exhaust. He got some special epoxy he had, had me undress it and squeeze it into shape while he dressed the hole. Then he put a piece of rubber held in place with a hose clamp over the top as well. We fired up the engine and limped towards the bridge, under and out the other side then down the channel towards Boot Key Harbour.

The marina appointed mooring # O4 as ours. We lucked out in being able to land on it fairly quickly. This is the biggest mooring field in the whole USA, with 400 moorings and a good scattering of anchored boats around the edges. 

Ashore we went and registered, got all our handy info plus goody bag. It was definitely a very different temporary home for us, compared with what we have had for the past many years.

We had to get a taxi up to the airport and get ourselves checked in, which proved to be easy. These days one has to register online well before entering the United States and then finish off at an airport. Surprisingly, no mention was made of covid or vaccinations….

What do we do in Boot Key, Marathon?

The tasks started, the chores, the ordering, the maintenance all the reasons why we were in the middle of the Florida Keys.

Off to a grocery store, for us Publix. After not being in an American grocery for many years it was quite overwhelming, just miles of selection/items, so many choices for so many similar items can prove to be quite tiring. 

John made good friends with Amazon. He ordered numerous boating needs: solar panels, wiring, water maker needs, etc.

A few days of car hire:

On our 3rd day we hired a car from Enterprise and set off to get our soda stream gas canisters. John has our soda stream rigged so we can use massive gas canisters which last many months.

Of course being away from any proper facility to refill we had gone without for quite sometime. Here in the Keys we knew to go to Air-Gas as this was where we originally obtained them 5 years previously. It is located near Key West so after getting the new gas canisters we visited Key West.

We were fortunate to be able to find a parking lot and then headed off for a walk around and lunch in Key West. The walk along the front was very much as it was years before. Still packed with visitors of all types, tarpon being fed from the docks, pelicans lingering nearby.

Large custom built flying bridges above sleek looking fishing boats, the old tourist schooner waiting tourists, the open air seafood restaurants dockside, yes, just as it always was – Key West. After lunch we went to return to the car park and realized we had forgotten where it was located…..never mind after a bit of a turn around a few blocks we found our jeep and we retraced our journey to Marathon.  

Day two with the car we sped to Homestead to visit a mall and a Walmart….. We had a list of items we needed to replace on Aeeshah. This was a confusing excursion for us as 1st locating the shops then finding what we wanted/needed in huge shops required patience and endurance.

Most days have comprised of us riding our bikes, for exercise going to usually to either Home Deport, Publix or West Marine where we get what we need for the days projects or food. It’s a good ride and keeps us somewhat fit, especially when we ride against the wind. 

Friends Alex and Dave arrived on their boat Banyan. We had fun catching up with them and going to a local seafood restaurant for lunch one day.

Key West excursion

Believe it or not but I had managed to get not 1, not 2, not 3 but 4 flat tires on my front wheel. Each right by the value! John decided that it was the cheap Chinese inner tubes we had purchased. When friends said they were heading to Key West on the public transit we jumped at the idea, as the closest place to buy inner tubes was in Key West.

7:30am we were at the bus stop and alighted the bus, nearly 2 hours we arrived downtown Key West.

Our companions: Roy and Madeline off Mistril and Lucy and Rosaire off Ma Blonde were there on different missions so off we all set in differing directions.

The bike store was easy to find as we had been there 5 years previously. With new inner tubes tucked away in our bag we set off to the nearest site to visit. 

The Key West Graveyard

We had visited years before, but it was well worth walking through again. Interesting dedications to those passed, lovely iguannas and lizards, quaint signs and lovely shady lanes.

Duval Street 

Was our next stop. This street would never fails to interest just about anyone. It has character, quaintness, arts, entertainment, culture and oh, so much more. For me the highlights were the art galleries.

I adore the unusual, especially where the textures and colors are extreme. Of course there are also the people to watch with their eccentricities, and then wonderful differing architecture to be found. We managed to walk both sides, I loved it.

Lunch was next

We had arranged to meet up, this ended up being the Waterfront Brewery, where John and I landed after Duval Street as it was shady and the AC was blasting out. Yep, they had AC blasting out onto the walkway. Fish and chips was the popular choice at lunch. The fish was Mai Mai and was very good!

John and I set off to West Marine, while the others went back to exploring Key West. However, no sooner than we reached West marine than we heard from them, they were all headed to the bus stop ….. it was too hot, time to head back. John and I completely agreed, we were quite happy to head back to Marathon. 

When we arrived we had: 

– A stove whose oven door had broken off in rough seas, a new one was ordered and delivered.

– A water pump and pressure switch which was barely functioning, a new one was ordered and installed.

– The old VHF had died months previously, a new handheld VHF arrived.

– A starter motor which barely started the engine, a new one was ordered and has been installed.

– The exhaust with its hole has been dismantled, taken apart and the new exhaust ordered, delivered and is now installed after many weeks by John

– John’s iPhone which was more or less dead and my phone which did not have 5G so wouldn’t work here; both have been replaced.

– My wonderful Mac Pro computer of barely 2 years old stopped working. Apparently the motherboard was shot. It was repaired, but meanwhile I have a reconditioned iMac pro to work with.

– John has ordered and received 3 new solar panels and all the connections. – To replace the 10 year olds that are not efficient any more.

– We had a few stitches needed in the mainsail near the clew, plus the track had corroded. I stitched and we ordered a new track, which is ready to be added.

– My eyes have been tested and my new glasses are here. 

– The water maker maintenance kit has arrived.

– A new chart plotter is installed alongside the old.

– The water heater sprang a leak a new one arrived.

– And a few other incidental items are here and are completed.

All this accomplished in just over a month and now we are looking towards the Bahamas….. 

 

Photo Album —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/J4jZNiAb2h1hKPrZ7

 

After a great sail back with La Favorita from Lighthouse Reef Atoll, via Turneffe were we anchored off Blue Creek, we arrived and anchored in Cay Caulker. 

Along the way we had taken photos of each others boats and tried to catch fish. No fish just seaweed was caught, but the photos were good!

Cay Caulker

This cay is a favourite of many. It’s sandy streets lined with gaily, painted, businesses and homes is delightful place to walk around.

You just never know what you might see with its laid back atmosphere. 

Cay Caulker being a touristy place offers all the regular attractions, diving, swimming with rays and sharks, fishing, etc., at one end of the cay — the northern end — is an area called the Spit. We enjoyed walking there to just to look out over the lovely, clear, turquoise, waters and to people watch the many tourists. 

Walks towards the southern end of the cay past all the differing homes, small guest cottages and tiny shops brings you to the airstrip.

It is referred to as an airport, but really it only hosts the small planes of Tropic Air and Mayan Airlines.

Follow this by a walk back along the shoreline along a rough track that serves as a “roadway” for even golf carts, but mainly pedal bikes. I enjoyed capturing the differing birds we would see. 

One walk we took we followed this shoreline pathway past the airstrip, past the shoreline homes and guest cottages, through the mangrove area at the southern end.

Previously this area was quite undeveloped, but we found many new residences and construction underway for more. To me this was most disappointing as the swampy salt marsh was being destroyed. The birds were still there amongst the trash, building  equipment and what remained of the salt marsh, but their habitat was destroyed. 

 Foods: 

Chinese, sweet and sour chicken, fry jacks and fresh fish were the wonderful dinners we enjoyed.

Ever since we have 1st visited we have enjoyed take outs from Yummy, Yummy a Taiwanese take out/restaurant. So it was lovely to be able to enjoy them again.

And Fry Jacks we had to have some before we left. The dock we used daily was the fisherman’s dock, so we were often around when fish was being cleaned.

And of course we had to buy some for ourselves and Chico. One fellow cleaning his catch spoke of how he free dove to 60 odd feet to secure his catch. Each day after our walks we would indulge in a freshly made watermelon juice. It was very refreshing! We took a bottle of the freshly made orange juice to share for lunch.

Cay Caulker was a delightful place to end our time in Belize.

We had been waiting and waiting for a good weather window for our passage to Isla Mujares. We were going to sail with Tom and Kristie on La Favorita. The general consensus was that we would anchor off San Pedro for the night, check out and leave in the morning.

San Pedro, Ambergrise Cay

San Pedro anchorage is not wonderful. The holding is poor, the water is just about deep enough for our drafts and it is to windward, off of the busy town. However the idea was that it would save us all 4 or 5 hours sail up the outside. So we anchored up and took turns going ashore, checking out and whatever while we watched each other’s boats.

San Pedro is a crazy busy town, the roadways are jammed packed with golf carts, bikes and taxis. Folks walking hither and tether with very little sidewalk, one needs your wits about you at all times.

Tom and Christie had checked out first, we followed, checked out and bought some goodies from the French pastry shop for our trip.

Passage to Isla Mujares

Off we set, through the San Pedro cut, which was terribly rough. The seas were rolling in, we were motoring hard into the huge surf getting a good lot of spray over Aeeshah for the 1st time in 3 years. Outside in the open water the seas eventually settled into a normal pattern, we were headed northward towards Isla Mujares, Mexico.

The passage was not pleasant. It was far windier than expected with winds between 15 – 25kts. The seas were between 6 – 10 feet and from differing directions due to the current and wind conflicting. But, with the help of a 3kts current we traveled at an average speed of 7.5kts and arrived in Cozumel after just over 24 hours.

At Cozumel we anchored off of the Port Captain’s dock, just to the north away from a designated snorkel area. Chico was very happy to find dead flying fish on deck all for him to eat, yummy!

The sea there is amazingly clear. It must be due to the Gulf Stream current that runs through at a good 3kt clip. In fact though the wind was blowing at about 15kts from the southeast the current kept us firmly pointing its direction. Where we were anchored the airplanes were flying over head to land ahead of us, good for plane spotting too.

Across to Isla Mujares we headed early the next morning. There was a lovely sunrise!

Arriving in the early afternoon, the 50 odd mile sail was again accelerated by the strong current, 230 miles approximately from where we started.

Isla Mujares, Mexico

We had last been in Isla in 2017, so we’re quite familiar with where and what to do.

The next day was a Friday and so we started the check in process. And what an ordeal that was……

The 1st person to see us was the Dr. He was pleasant, filled out forms, answered questions everything was completed in a hour.

2nd was the Agricultural fellow, who was a right pain. We spent the rest of the day till 4:30 dealing with him. He became hung up on parasites. Firstly, he made us go and get Chico, he looks at him and all his documents plus passport, then sends us to a vet.

We get a taxi to the vets eventually arriving after the taxi driver mistakenly took us to the Dophinarian, then the Rescue animal centre. There finally at the vet, Chico is checked, admired, photographed as they had never seen such a handsome cat. We get a glowing medical certificate as everything is perfect. Are told all that was necessary was his rabies shots which were present and recorded in his passport.

Go back to the boat to drop Chico off. Back to the office to the Agricultural guy, who looks at the certificate, and all the documents again, shuffles them and says something about parasites.

Well, that was midday, there we sat for the rest of the afternoon while he “checked” something, then left with all our documents, telling us to wait. I was most irritated, pissed right off….… He returned with our documents at 4:30, hands them back with no explanation, not diddly squat.

The only good that happened was the customs guy was with him and he processed us within 5 minutes and didn’t ask to board Aeeshah.

We had to finish the check in on the Monday by seeing the Port Captain. Now we expected, maybe a few hours…….took until 3:00pm. Again, we filled out forms, waited, were told to return at 1:00pm, then waited and waited. Finally after 2 full days of waiting in a small hot office we were checked in.

The first weekend brought a Northerly. This one was quite strong, winds of up to 37kts. The anchorage is not a good one, holding is not reliable and there are many cruising boats.

The only good part about this front was it arrived in the daylight hours. Our friends on La Favorita and on Latitude both dragged. Both of them were fighting the weather for several hours. And as it turned out both had windless issues which made it even more challenging for them. We were really blessed as we stayed put. 

Isla Mujares is a very colourful isle. The Mexican architecture, the street art — murals, the unusual carvings and small decorations that you find are fantastic. Every walk you do you can find a treasure. 

We have had many walks around the town area. (However what I do find disconcerting are the number of people, (maskless). From spending over 2 years in quite isolated areas where if you do go out you have to be masked up, then entering crowds of tourists hussleing along the streets, I found it to be unsettling, almost like I’ve developed a phobia.I need to get used to what is normal life.

Cancun for the day

We decided to cross to Cancun for the day. Why? Well believe it or not John wanted to visit the big mall. The Mall Las Americanas. The biggest around. He was desperate for new t-shirts and shorts. Off we went on the ferry. Then by taxi to the mall. There we wandered around around for 4 hours or so. Yes, we did purchase a few items, but not much. It was all just a bit overwhelming.

Punta Sur

We invited Derick and Carol to come along to the southern end of Isla Mujares, Punta Sur. This point of land is noted historically as an important Mayan “ruin”  and  also as a beauty spot, understandably it is also very popular with the tourists. 

Isla’s history dates back over 1500 years when it was part of the Maya province of Ekab. The island served as the sanctuary for the goddess Ixchel, the Maya goddess of the moon, fertility, medicine and happiness.

For the Mayans their Temple for worship of the goddess Ixchel was located at the South point of the island. The temple has disappeared long ago but there are remains of the ruined lighthouse. They used the rocks piles at the point as their lighthouse. The light from torches were shown through holes in the walls, which could be seen by the navigators at sea. As the Maya also came to the island to harvest salt from the salt lagoons. Nowadays there is a new lighthouse that shines.

We set off early for us at 9:30 catching the bus from just near Oscars. This is a hop on, one fee, bus that circulates the Isla. We all hopped off near Punta Sur and walked along to the park. The views are just wonderful looking out from the cliffs above the sea.

There are modern day statues their to commemorate and pay tribute the Mayan Goddess  Ixchel. At one there was a Shaman performing a ritual or blessing. The folks were dressed in Mayan types of clothes and seemed to be leaving foods/tributes beneath the statue to the goddess Ixchel of the moon, fertility, medicine and happiness.

We headed right out to the tip of the point where the ruins of the lighthouse are located enjoying the views along the way. 

After which we followed the steps and pathways that go below the cliff and trail along the waters edge. 5 years ago when we last visited these pathways and trails were in much better shape, but since then they have had a hurricane and obviously there was some damage that has not been repaired while other pathways have been changed completely from before.

It was quite exciting at times along the sea side pathway trying to dodge the breaking waves while crossing the broken path. 

The colours are just stunning. And as most folks don’t risk going along these lower paths there were fewer people about. When we had been beneath the cliff face we saw about half a dozen police with big guns pointing out to sea.

In the distance we could see a patrol boat following some people trying to swim to shore. We overheard folks saying that they were migrants from Cuba that had been ditched from a boat. Whether that was true, who knows, we never saw them get ashore nor if the boat managed to pick them up in those rough seas. By the time we finished with our cliff side walk and shoreline pathway all was gone. 

Punta Sur is a lovely, lovely point. 

We left and awaited a bus for our return trip. However we had no idea where it would take us. As it turned out we were taken all the way into the town. Let off on one side of a roundabout only to board again and continue back all the way to Oscars. 

Each day we have tried walking a different area or route

and I think we have now just about exhausted our options.

Around the large pond, along the lanes in the town, along the walkway leading along the east side of town, around the airstrip, just all over the isle.

Another favourite was when we walked again with Derick and Carol all the way from Punta Sur along the cliff tops that run in front of the houses on the east side to about halfway down the isle.

It was a lovely sunny day, a hot one, so we set off early. The views were wonderful and the iguanas numerous. Yes, iguanas living in the cliffs above the seas, crouching on the rocks below, running along jagged edges.

There seemed to be families of them. Large males bobbing their heads at smaller females with small juveniles looking on. I think the folks living in the neighbouring houses feed them as we saw fruit peel and coconut halves left near where they were found.

After a good way along the east shore past some pretty beaches we crossed the road to have a look at the cemetery.

Here as in many Central American counties the dead are put in tombs that are adorned to pay tribute to the departed.

It is always interesting to see the various personalities attached to the different tombs.

Still further along in our walk was a wonderful display of murals. The murals are depictions of differing aspects of life here in Isla Mujares. Plus they reflect the Mayan beliefs and culture still very much alive.

Another excellent morning walk followed by lunch at Oscars.

John and I revisited the cliffs along the eastern shore and continued to walk along the shoreline and pathway. It again was just beautiful!

We also visited the little cemetery in the town. We were just passing when on a daily outing and so popped in. Again the cemetery made for interesting browsing. 

We have seen some crazy sights…..The craziest is overloaded tourist boats. Not just one or two but dozens! They just pile these cats with people and then off they go.

We have had a few bad weather days and nights. At this time of year the region is blasted by northers that bring high winds and of course lower temperatures. We don’t mind the low temperatures but the winds are very stressful.

The first norther was as mentioned during our first weekend. The second was worse. It started during the evening, went through the night and continued the next day. The winds didn’t go as high just between 25 – 30kts, but they were persistent. Again boats dragged, one was a catamaran that was anchored just behind us.

They had arrived, dropped the hook, gone off to the beach and we don’t think they even checked in. The boat just took off down the anchorage, hitting a monohull then a dock of a marina and all the time nobody was topside. Plus at the same time others were dragging through the anchorage. The reason being, the bottom is turtle grass on top of thin sand. We have been ok so far, but we do have a near 200ft of chain out. I am just hoping to leave before the next northerly. It’s time to move on again. 

 

PHOTO ALBUM above water :–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/SVTEyy3yZ2bJTguZ6

Below water–>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZFwhYJdpaptrAGaA

Off to Lighthouse Reef 

Lighthouse Reef Atoll, is an atoll 70 km from the mainland of Belize. One of the four found in this part of the world.

We were ready for adventure after nearly 2 weeks of Northerly fronts….the warmer weather was returning, the easterlies were forecast and we were looking at least a good 10 days of settled weather.

A bucket list destination was the Great Blue Hole and Half Moon Cay. 

From the Reserve we set off for SouthWater, arrived after an easy crossing and anchored up for the night. Along with us was another sailboat, La Favorita, with Kristie and Tom aboard. We had met them at the Reserve and they too thought Lighthouse Reef would be an interesting destination. 

Our crossing from SouthWater Cay Cut to Lighthouse reef was not a comfortable one. It is always difficult to reach Lighthouse reef as from most vantage points it is a matter of having winds and seas against you. On this day the wind was supposed to stay easterly but it kept switching to northeasterly and so we were close hauled and having seas breaking on the bow too. Finally after 7 hours the 37 miles were behind us and we crossed the outer reef where the water is deep enough and anchored off Long Cay. 

This area is totally exposed except on our eastern side where the cay sheltered us. The seas are clear, clear turquoise with the seas crashing on the distant shallow reef. 

Snorkels along the reef:

In the 5 days we were there we snorkelled 5 times off of the outer reef in area, close by where we were anchored. 

Each time we explored a different section and each time it was a wonderful and exciting snorkel. The corals were amazing and abundant. The seas often were breaking over the stag horn corals and with the sunlight shining through it is beautiful.

The fish life was very varied and abundant. Numerous colourful  reef fish, Snappers, Yellow tail grunts, smaller turquoise fishes, Angel fish and so many more to be seen. 

Flamingo Tongues were numerous on the sea fans and whips.

Practically every snorkel I saw a shark, now, I do not mind the Nurse sharks,

but the afternoon snorkel when I met with a Black tip reef shark I was not so happy.

First I saw a big Pompano then I saw this large reef shark approaching from just off my left side. Not quite believing what I saw I decided to alter my course and head further to my left, but sure enough about 5 minutes later I saw it circling up towards me from the reef ahead to my right.

It was quite large, and intimidating as it had altered its course and was edging towards me. I allowed myself to drift backwards while watching the shark. Soon it was out of sight again and I was feeling a wee bit nervous and thought it best to return to the dinghy. Meanwhile, I had no idea where John was, other than he was towards the deeper water where Tom and Kristie were also snorkelling.

Walks and dinghy rides around Long Cay:

We went ashore via the dock on our side of Long Cay and followed the shaded trail towards the resorts. The trail winds through mangroves and trees right across the cay.

The mosquitoes and no-see-ums  are plentiful to say the least, even with bug repellent we served as lunch to many of them. There are a few small resorts, the 1st one we passed is purely a dive resort and very rustic. Set in the mangroves and trees I would not stay there, just too many biting insects. The next resort is now shut, and in need of repair.

The third resort is called Itza Resort. Itza is colourful, also rustic and charming. It offers snorkelling, diving, fly fishing, fishing and numerous other water sports.

When we arrived all the guests were away for the day and it was quiet. We met with the manager Elvis, had a chat and asked about the trips to Half Moon and the Blue Hole.

Making tentative arrangements, We also managed to hook onto the resort’s wifi for a weather forecast and emails. 

There were a few trails which took us along raised platforms to the shoreline further along and a beach which I enjoyed walking along and seeing a native iguana sunning on a log. The cay is very beautiful.

Back at the dock we set off in the dinghy to explore the shoreline. Much of which was mangroves, with occasional coconut palms and tiny beaches.

At one are there was a longer beach where we saw a creek draining from a large inland lagoon.

There was a pair of nesting osprey who were quite anxious for us to leave the area.

After walking the beach we dinghied along to the end of Long Cay. Such a lovely wild cay.

John and I along with Tom and Kristie were very keen to visit both the Blue Hole and Half moon Cay. We negotiated with Elvis, the manager of Itza Resort, reaching an agreement of setting out at 6:30 from our boats, getting to the Blue Hole well ahead of all the commercial boats that arrive from the mainland.

Snorkelling there, the next stop being another snorkel site along the outer barrier reef, followed by a stop at Half moon Cay, a snack, a visit to the Red Footed Boobie and Frigate bird colony and the Lighthouse and ending up with a final snorkel, before returning around 1:00pm. 

We were up very early that day, in fact before the sun so we got to see the sun rise.

Elvis picked us up from our boats which saved us having to take the dinghies all the way to the resort on the other side of Long Cay. The other 2 guests, Kristie and Cristie, yes, two more Kristies climbed aboard and off we went towards the Blue Hole.

Photo below borrowed from internet.

The Blue Hole Natural Monument comprises a gigantic underwater sinkhole surrounded by a ring of coral in the sparkling, shallow waters of the Lighthouse Reef Atoll. The Great Blue Hole, the monument’s principal attraction, is roughly 1,000 feet (300 meters) across and over 400 feet (120 meters) deep. It is the largest geological formation of its kind in the world. This collapsed cave system was likely formed above ground 10,000 years ago. Great Blue Hole is so large it can even be seen from space. Made famous by world-renowned underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau, this remarkable site is on the bucket list of virtually every scuba diver in the world. 

The Blue Hole snorkel:

Arriving at the Blue Hole around 7:30am meant the sun wasn’t that high in the sky so it was pretty hard to distinguish the outer rim. However once in the water it was obvious where the hole was, as it was a deep blue expanse, a bottomless blue, quite beautiful. 

The reef surrounding was amazing! Incredibly full of life, the water with pristine clarity.

There were every type of corals, hard and soft, some I had never seen before, all in pristine condition.

Very diverse, with lovely sponges, sea whips and fans, reef fish of all types, file fish, trumpet fish, cow fish, snappers, hine, Angel fish, just to name a few.

We swam around the entire rim which took just over a hour. It was wonderful but we were all cold, poor Kristie was just blue. 

Off we whizzed to our next snorkelling site.

Snorkel along Lighthouse reef:

This was a completely different reef environment, being the inside of the barrier reef.

The water was amazingly clear, but on the shallow side with a stronger current running.

The reef wasn’t as covered with corals, but more the smaller anemones and soft corals were swaying in the swell. The fish were there but hiding out in the crevasses, surprisingly some were quite large.

I was amazed by a large grouper which a followed for a while also an enormous ray which had been hidden under the sands until I started watching and the ray glided off. 

As we neared Half Moon Cay there were grass beds. These were again quite shallow, but as the ground undulated outward so we began to see large schools of fish, the size of sardines, thousands of them rushing by as we swam.

Beyond them we could spy very large barracudas — the guide Jeff pointed out a shark, a hammerhead, I never saw it but a few of the others did. As we approached the dock and beach there were again rays lounging in the sands and gliding over the grass beds.

Half Moon Cay:

Half Moon Cay was established as a wildlife protected site in 1924. The island got its name from it’s crescent like shape and together with the white sand, it looks like the moon in the clear turquoise waters. Half Moon Cay was established as a wildlife reserve and protected site in 1924. In 1981 it became the first Marine protected area in Central America under the Belize National Park system Act. The Southern part of the island serves as a nursery for the loggerhead, hawksbill, and green turtles which nest there between May and November. Half Moon Cay Natural Monument is also part of the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System World Heritage Site which was established on December 4, 1996.

Half Moon is gorgeous, the perfect Sandy cay with palm trees and turquoise waters.

We had swam from the reef, across the grass beds and to the beach and dock where the boat, our gear and Elvis was waiting for us. Elvis had snacks ready: warm breakfast burritos, sliced cantaloupe, muffins and water. We all consumed the food in a hurry as we were famished after the few hours spent in the cool water.

Right after our snack John and I set off to walk to the Red Footed Boobie and Frigate Bird colony found at one side of the cay. 

The most famous inhabitants of this Half Moon Cay are its Red-footed Boobies which nest in the Ziricote thicket at the western end of the cay. Also nesting are the magnificent Frigate Birds.

It was a wonderful walk there firstly through a grove of coconut palm trees and then through the Ziricote thicket. On the way we saw a poor, dead Frigate bird that was being consumed by hermit crabs, I never knew they feasted on dead animals. 

Atop of the platform we were amazed by all the nesting birds spread out as far as the eye could see.

Swooping in the skies above, doing their mating dance and calls,

attending to young, and just so busy they didn’t give us so much as a glance.

We enjoyed watching them for a good while and then set off for Honeymoon beach at the end of the pathway and cay. It too was a very scenic beach

Returning along the same path we headed out for the old lighthouses at the other end of Half Moon cay.

The present one is just a tower, which had an osprey’s nest atop. The old one lies in the sea with the building just a ruin. 

The cay was a wonderful place to visit, I did wish I had more time there.

Next destination was another snorkel, in completely different environment.

Snorkel on the outside reef

This snorkel was in deeper water as it was outside the barrier reef. The water was not as clear as the tide was returning. However we did see an enormous turtle with a remora on its back.

Also in the distance was reef shark, while gliding below us and around us some huge barracudas, in the sandy water and over the grass beds rays were gliding by.

This was John’s favourite snorkel, for me it was the least favourable, but still very good.

Returning to Itza Resort I enjoyed a refreshing  club soda and started to warm up. It was a very successful day. 

In the morning we set off, along with La Favorita to Turneffe for the night. The following day we headed to Cay Caulker having a wonderful, fast sail….

We each took pictures of each other’s boats. Again no one caught any fish. Oh well, maybe next time.

“People often say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I say that the most liberating thing about beauty is realizing that you are the beholder.” — Salma Hayek

 

PHOTO ALBUM–>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/H8DVpViwoR5HNo4b6

 Placencia

After Ethan left we decided to get what we needed, by way of fuel, propane, foods etc and head further north in Belize.

We scurried off to renew our permission to be in Belize at the Customs, Immigration and Port Authority offices in Big Creek. Taking the the Hokey Pokey, then a taxi, it’s a right pain….(In Belize you have to check in with these folks every month)

Two days of stocking up and we were all set….…Meanwhile:

Our water maker had a problem — needed a new impeller. We now rely on the water maker, so John ordered one to be flown in, supposedly quickly. Then the weather forecast was grim….…Two large northers were forecast to arrive one after the other. 

Added to the fact that Aeeshah was in need of a good cleaning, the dinghy needed a repair job and I had a ton of laundry to do. So…

We decided to go to the Reserve, into the marina for what we needed to do: to use the laundry, to wait for the ordered parts and to enjoy riding our bikes — for the 1st time in nearly 5 years. 

3 days after Ethan left on the 3rd we arrived at the Reserve Marina to stay for 2 weeks. 

This is a very unusual area and place. 

The whole area is under litigation due to a massive ponzy scheme that of course collapsed. https://www.ftc.gov/enforcement/cases-proceedings/x040009/ecological-fox-llc?fbclid=IwAR1swBeIUmONEh9P_1EwLswyQ8HZ6CusJJNwhjT6vmnEKXDq2U8rLyF1TQE However the basic set up for the estates/homes remains, plus, meanwhile, there are some very nice residences that were built.

Riding our bikes and exploring

Getting back on our bikes was wonderful! We had had them serviced in the Rio, so they were in marvellous condition. Both of us love to ride and explore off track and at the Reserve there was 14,000 acres of possibility.

We had miles and miles of Sandy tracks and road ways to choose from, plus other tracks that cut through the swampland and trees. Nearly every morning for the 2 weeks we set off for a ride, usually for an hour and a half or longer.

I believe we followed every possible track and roadway, some leading to nowhere others leading to homes built way out in the sticks and still others leading to watery canals.

We saw wild pigs,

groups of coatimundis,

prints left in the mud by a jaguar,

many, many wonderful birds of differing types

all sorts of lovely flowers, plants and more,

plus all kinds of varying scenery, but not many vehicles or people.

Bike riding gives you such a sense of freedom and adventure.

Chico enjoyed a daily walk along the docks and usually running back made for good exercise for him.

Chores, repairs, work:

Laundry was done, John patched and repaired the dinghy, oil changes were done, vacuuming, cupboards tidied, every area reorganised. Each day we worked and played. 

We had to pop down to Placencia to pick up our parts from the airport. Taking advantage of this last visit there to indulge in our favourite treats and to purchase a last few supplies.

The biggest excitement at the Reserve Marina was when this antiquated tug arrived to take this huge yacht that had been held/stuck at the marina for 3 years off to Belize City. Some wondered if it was possible to move it, but they had it under tow in no time.

It was time to head out for a grand adventure — a bucket list destination: Lighthouse reef, The Blue Hole and Half Moon Cay.

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience –  Eleanor Roosevelt

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/wRJu9ZW68FioZwjT6

Underwater PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/maHDfoQdL4NBLTNq7

SouthWater Cay

Leaving Sapordilla we headed out to SouthWater cay for the night and had another lovely snorkel. Ethan and John headed out the cut again to the deep water. I enjoyed all the shallower corals and fish. This time the water was a bit warmer, but still 45 minutes was our limit. 

Glover’s Atoll – Ethan’s Birthday

Through the cut to the open ocean at SouthWater we then headed towards Glover’s atoll. It was Ethan’s Birthday and our gift was a return visit to Glover’s. (When he was 10 we had visited on a diving holiday, he had always wanted to return.)

The passage over to Glovers was average, some sailing and some motor sailing the wind was just not quite strong enough. The rods were out, but with all the seaweed we never got a bite. We did see more dolphins playing off of our bow, quite a large pod with small young ones. Ethan enjoyed watching them from the bow. We have seen dolphin in nearly every anchorage and on every passage in the last few weeks, but Ethan reported this was by far the largest family pod.

Entering Glover’s through the break in the reefs on the south east we anchored off of the 1st cay. There is a luxury resort there that looks to be finally finished on this cay. They do not welcome cruising boats and they do not look in our price range. 

That afternoon John and Ethan went for a dinghy about, reminiscing old memories from our previous visit.

For Ethan’s birthday evening he opened a bottle of bubbly on the bow during the sunset which he then shared with Papa. We had barbecued steak for dinner – (Excellent Guatemalan steak which we had saved)

The following morning we dinghied to the second cay where the Marisol resort is located. Unfortunately it was closed so all the staff were away.

We were allowed to walk around and enjoyed visiting the cay where we had 1st taken Ethan when he was 10 and learnt to dive.

Just about everything was still the same, the gaily painted chalets, the coconut lined walkways, the shallow reef on the outside, and the shady coconut groves, our chalet overlooking the reef, all was just as we had last seen and remembered.

However at the far end of the cay the tiny resort there has changed ownership. It is now an eco resort specialising in students and young adults that seek adventure without luxury. (The small cabanas are tented not air conditioned)

Off to snorkel the reef. We started with one large reef in the morning where again the fellows concentrated on the deep water.

They looked for rays and tarpon. I was more interest in the lovely corals and fish, though I did see tarpon in the distant depths. 

Again in the afternoon we snorkelled at yet another large reef. This time I was amazed by a large shark that swam up over the reef, nearly right up to me. It then looked at me, and turned to glide by, I would estimate it was approximately 6-8 ft, a large nurse shark.

Further along I met up with Ethan who was following a large ray, I told him where the shark was located and he actually did manage to find it, now snoozing below a ledge in the reef.

Next morning was time to leave Glover’s and head back as again a front was due to visit in a few days.

Crossing to SouthWater Cay we once again trawled for fish, hoping to get a nice Jack or Mahi Mahi for dinner. However the sargassum seaweed is rampant, just masses of it again this year. Then just as we were about to sail through the SouthWater Cut we had a strike.

Ethan, was coached by Papa as to how to bring the fish in. It turned out to be a small Barracuda. We don’t eat Barracuda due to the chance of cigiterra so the guys released it……..Ethan was most relieved it wasn’t hurt.

We stopped at Blue Ground Range for the night and enjoyed another beautiful sunset. Crossing to the Sapodilla Lagoon the next morning. 

Sapordilla Lagoon – The Range/Reserve

In the lagoon was where we anchored to be protected for the newest front that was approaching. I took advantage of the marina laundry, Ethan and I took advantage of the marina wifi, and we all enjoyed walks around the Reserve looking for wildlife like coatimundis and birds like the swallow tailed fly catchers. 

John took out his drone and along with Don and Ethan tried to fly it.

However they had a few technical problems. After 2 days the weather was fine for us to head out to the reef and cays again.

We again enjoyed a fairly good sail across, but only caught seaweed.

SouthWater Cay and Tobacco Cay

SouthWater was our 1st stop. The weather was quite amazing, dead calm with glassy seas. We had a magical snorkel along the cut and out to the outside of the reef and cay.

The water was amazingly clear and warmer than usual. Ethan and John snorkelled nearly the whole of the outside reef. I snorkelled the deep and the shallows, the elk horn coral beds were huge, normally you cannot get close due to the swell but that day I could snorkel right up to and over them. It was a wonderful afternoon snorkel. 

In the later afternoon John and Ethan flew the drone off of the boat. This was a 1st, normally it is flown from land. The flying went really well mainly as there was no wind and the scenery there is gorgeous.

The next morning it was off to Tobacco Cay. Ethan was very happy to reel in a Spanish macheral, his 1st good eating fish.

We found our old sandy patch to anchor in. The sand holes are few and far between at Tobacco cay. The rest of the holding is not very good being grass beds.

We dinghied to the far side of the cut where we snorkelled. The whole of Tobacco cut and the reefs around are amazing for the corals and fish you see.

We had an excellent hour in the water. Again I spent my time between the deeper reef and the shallow reef. Here the reef nearly sticks out of the water and the swell rolls right over the reef.

Therefore one has to be very careful. In the deeper water of the cut there was a large school of big tarpon. John and Ethan followed them plus the numerous rays.

That evening it was fresh fish for dinner. Ethan was amazed by the size of the barracuda that stalked the side of the boat after the fish was cleaned and the blood and guts put in the water. The following day we were going to snorkel the other side of the cut, but the weather was iffy, the wind was up so we decided to head back to Placencia. The passage back was a mix of sail and engine, but quite interesting as we chose a different route through the cays and not down the main channel. 

Placencia 

At Placencia I was very happy not to have to cook dinner. Instead we could get a take out dinner of the local fish and chips one night, the Belizean pizza the second night and Ethan’s final night Fry Jacks…..no not the fish, a Belize speciality dish…..pic below.

We also were able to walk about and get a few gifts for Ethan to take back to his brother and sisters. Have a few last ice creams at Tooty Fruity and enjoys the sights and sounds.

Ethan leaves

Ethan had a long journey home via Miami over 2 days of travel. We managed to get his covid testing done in time plus get all the necessary travel documents submitted. Travel these days is a right pain! Unless of course you sail. We went with Ethan to the airstrip and saw him off. It was sad seeing him leave. When people leave there is always a void left behind.

“Change is the essence of life.”  —  Anatole France

“The consequences of your life are sown in what you do and how you behave.” —  Tom Shadyac

 

The photo album for the post is here–>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3nG8MPEeNSuNAbz6

The underwater photos are here–>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/bh98gPcjxmXuqGrE9

Aeeshah has finally left Guatemala, but I am sure we will return one day. It was with mixed feelings saying goodbye on the dock and leaving our berth, sad, but exciting too.

The Leaving

We headed straight downriver, across the lake and down the canyon/gorge towards Linvingston.

As always it was a magical journey, just incredibly beautiful. 

In Livingston our agent Raul was ready for us. Once he had taken our passports, and had a tuk-tuk drop us off at the Clinic for our covid tests he said to meet at 2:30 to receive our zarpe. As expected our tests were negative and we headed to lunch. It was a very mediocre hamburger lunch. Reminder to self: don’t eat there again. Livingston was very busy with New Year visitors, businesses were doing well.

As soon as we had our documents we headed back out to Aeeshah, pulled the anchor and headed for the bar – mouth of the river. When ever leaving the Rio Dulce most sailboats need to take into account the high tide. Normally folks aim for the full or the new moons when the tide is at its highest; otherwise you have to be hauled across by a launcha with a line attached to your mast – not fun! The normal tide does not offer enough depth to get over the bar at the mouth of the river. It was December 29th and we were headed for the high of the new moon. On this day we never saw less than 5″ under the keel. It was a smooth exit for us!

Over to Tres Puntas we headed where we spent a calm peaceful night. Just after dawn we headed to Punta Gorda. 

Punta Gorda, Belize

Again the conditions were benign. Anchoring off the village we dinghied ashore, tied up at the Port Authority dock and were met by an official. He directed us to a picnic table to await the health personal. Overall the check procedure took just 2 hours.

Never had we had such a calm, easy check out, overnight, crossing and check in to Belize.

Our first evening was spent at an anchorage just outside New Haven. It was lovely to be back out at anchor.

Placencia

Placencia was our port of call the next day. There we went ashore and reacquainted ourselves with the village. Our walk of choice was to head from Yolli’s towards the village dock, down the World’s Longest Sidewalk, then circle back to the village via the roadway. Nothing had changed, Placencia was just as lovely as always. 

Our son Gavin contacted us and proposed that Ethan come and join us for a month before he starts the Police Academy. We jumped at the opportunity to have Ethan visit. 

Ethan visits

Ethan arrived on the 8th January. He flew to Placencia from Belize city on a Maya plane. It is always a thrilling experience flying on those little planes. We met him at the airstrip and headed back to Aeeshah. 

The next 2 days were spent getting Ethan settled and making sure we were stocked up for a few weeks out in the cays. He had been to Placencia twice before with us.

We stocked up on all the foods we would need, plus more. Walked around the village, revisited all the familiar sites, enjoyed special foods like Flat Jacks and Italian ice-creams and were soon ready to leave.

Pelican Cays

First stop was the Pelican Cays. We were actually on our way to Blue Ground Range, but the wind turned to right on the nose and meant we were ploughing upwind so Pelican Cays it was, and just as well as the wind really increased. This is a deep anchorage of 60 feet or so.. There is an option to use a mooring that belongs to Hideaway Cay, but these were taken so anchoring behind the cays for protection was our only choice. There ended up being several other boats at anchor, all charter cats, one of which ended up next to us…….

Well during the night around 1:00am the wind rose, it must have been blowing over 25ks at least. John was in the cockpit checking our position when he watched the neighbouring cat drag by. Nobody aboard was aroused, they must have been deep asleep. The cat stopped behind us and nowhere near the reef, lucky for them and us. Fortunately by the morning it was good enough for us to head to Blue Ground Range. 

Blue Ground Range

There we anchored, had lunch and went for a dinghy ride around. It was quite breezy, but the anchorage offers wonderful protection from the winds. 

The previous few years while locked down in Belize, Blue Ground had been our safe place. We are very familiar the surrounding mangrove cays. In other words we know our way around. The area is large and consist of numerous cays and canals between them. I was happy to see the ospreys were again nesting.

Right down to the furthest cay we travelled, not seeing anyone else. At the furthest end of the Range there is an old, camp where a Dutch fellow used to hang out. It’s the site of where someone at some time tried to start a resort.

The place has been vandalised even more since we last visited.

Again, looking across towards the fishing camp there wasn’t a soul about, not even a dog. From there we went past the fishing camps and saw they too were deserted.

The old guy that was always outside his hut fixing nets wasn’t around either. Back at the boat we swam in the chilly water, getting out into the freezing northerly wind brrrrr it was cold!

The following morning we headed ashore to explore another cay, really to show Ethan what the cay had to offer. Really we were passing time, waiting for the winds to lay down.

This cay has a small salt pond, a few palm trees, lots of old reef and plenty of plastic trash that has washed in. A very sad, sad, pile of man made rubbish.

SouthWater Cay

Arriving at SouthWater cay we dropped anchor in a sandy area off the northern end of the cay. The cay looked as lovely as always, gaily painted wooden buildings, palm tree lined beach and turquoise seas.

The weather continued to look threatening. However it was calm enough behind the cay. And we know from past experience that in the sand holes the holding is excellent. Plus it cleared as quickly as it came, just fickle weather.

We snorkelled the reef along the side of the cut in the reefs to the deep.

The corals and fish were as lovely as ever. The stag horn coral on the outside is abundant. I enjoyed using my new underwater camera, experimenting with it to see what I could capture.

Honestly, 45 minutes was as long as any of us could handle as the water is  quite cool in January.

The next morning we went ashore to walk around Southwater.

There are several small resorts, some catering to diving holidays, some to fly-fishing and some to just relaxing. It really is a very pretty cay. This year it was much busier, tourism looks to be doing much better.

We then went off to snorkel the far side of the cut leading to the deep water.

The barrier reef surrounds Belize with several cuts that lead from the shallower water to the depths outside of many hundreds of feet. The cuts make for the best snorkelling as the water is crystal clear. I totally enjoyed my snorkel! The guys went off to the deep water,

I was snorkelling between the deep reef and the shallower reef as the light for my camera was better. Plus I find the corals just lovely. That day I was especially happy as I found a shark sleeping under a ledge of the reef. 

Sapordilla Lagoon – The Range/Reserve

We decided to head into the lagoon at Saporilla as there was another northerly heading our way, bringing cold winds and rain.

The land area at Sapordilla is called the range or reserve has been in the Belizean courts for some years. It was a grand scheme that fell flat when the money disappeared; another ponzie scheme. However there are a few large homes and there is the marina.

We can walk on the property, buy a few supplies in the marina store, buy fuel and use the showers and laundry. All of this makes it a very handy destination when the weather is unfavourable, but we anchor out in the lagoon as Chico could get up to so much mischief there. 

I enjoy walking around the reserve as there are loads of differing birds to see and animals. This time we saw a hawk, many song birds of differing colours and a coatimundis aka a coati. It was foraging in the long grasses and was quite shy of us. 

Hopkins and Sette River area

Our friends Michael and Rene off Sea Mist were in the marina and had the use of a friend’s car. They volunteered to take us grocery shopping and for a tour around the Hopkins and Sette River area.

 

We set off at 10:00ish heading 1st out of the Reserve. The driveway is 7 miles long and as is usual for Belize unpaved. The Reserve really is a massive area, 14,000 acres.

The roads to Hopkins are really quite plain, flat, lined with marshlands but it was pleasant to be driving out and about. In Hopkins we scouted for grocery stores, found one and shopped. Found another for further groceries and finally found a veg and fruit shack.

We enjoyed a very nice lunch of fish and chips at …….  Then it was off for a leisurely drive along the Sette River track and back to the Reserve.

 

Our last month?

PHOTO Album —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/KF67CW62tnjByBfr6

Our time in Guatemala has been coming to an end….Or so we think. We have enjoyed our last few weeks just doing the regular routine of yoga 3 times a week,

walks along the pipeline trail, when the weather permitted,

river travel to an from where ever we go, meeting friends for Taco Tuesday lunch and preparing for Christmas. 

We met up with friends Janet and Chris to walk the trails at Tijax. This is another Marina and hotel, difference is that it also has a rubber plantation and walking trails up to a look out on top of the hill. It’s a very pleasant walk, starting off on over hanging platforms through the mangroves where their cabanas are found.

From there you take the “park” entrance and walk another hanging platform over the swampy area before the hillside to the small museum.

The museum is small and offers information about the natural life found in the area. Next we walked through the jungle, uphill and downhill, over streams, and sawn logs until we reached the hilltop.

Ahead was the rubber plantation and further uphill the lookout, called Torre de Shaman.

From the lookout we had a grand view out over the Rio and across the forested expanses to Belize. 

The path returns via another direction where you cross several long hanging walkways in the jungle canopy.

Only two at a time can cross the walkways. The treetops are lovely, looking down I even spied a beautiful purple orchid.

After these hanging walkways we once again joined the pathway downhill and back to the Marina. It was a wonderful morning walk, lots to see and wonderful scenery.

A friend had bought a small, old marina and we were invited to go and have a peek at it.

It was the day he took over the property and it had been sitting neglected for quite a while. He has intentions of setting up a repair business there.

The place has lots of potential, he is young and talented so we are sure he will do well. – Best wishes Chris!

 

We had become so entrenched with the local community that we were invited to a baby Zaida’s christening and to waitress Dianna’s wedding. We didn’t make it to the Christening, but contributed towards her future.

John went with a group from Catamaran to Dianna’s wedding. He reported back that it was very nice but a one time only event for him. Everyone said they had an enjoyable time.

We put up our Christmas decorations and readied for Christmas. The 1st seasonal event was the staff party which was organised by several fellow cruisers here at Catamaran.

It was a fun happenstance with tamales, (the traditional Christmas food here), and cakes for feasting. We presented the staff with a tin of cookies and a gift of cash each.

Next there was a raffle of gift cards for the local grocery store La Torre. It was a fun afternoon for all. 

The next Christmas event was the Christmas Day breakfast of Eggs Benedict  which was made by Chris a fellow cruiser who is a chef.

The eggs and fruit served were amazing! We sat with Derick and Carol and had a lovely breakfast. 

At  5:00pm we had the cruiser Christmas Day dinner.

This was turkey, stuffing, mash potato and gravy dinner that was made by a group of 6 or so cruisers and accompanied by side dishes and desserts made by everyone. We again sat with Derick and Carol, and had a lovely evening. 

Several of us at the marina had been feeling poorly. Out of 8, 5 tested negative and the other 3 didn’t test. We were all certain it was a cold circulating. Luckily for me Jessica who owns a canvas shop volunteered her local recipe for a cold. She gave the ingredients and instructions to Trish who promptly made up the potion. I inhaled the hot fumes, drank a bit of it and continued to inhale and drink. For me it was like a miracle I felt soooo much better.

Recipe for cold

Cinnamon, tiny piece of ginger and lemon grass. Add cinnamon and ginger to a liter of boiling water then add lemon grass, cut up into pieces. Boil for 2 minutes. Inhale steam, drink some and store the rest in the fridge.

We were surprised on our last evening by a going away cake and well wishes at the pool bar. It was lovely of everyone to come and wish us good bye.

We will sorely miss the Rio Dulce, Catamaran and all of our wonderful friends, local and imported cruisers. We do feel we will be back, but who knows when? Chico will be heartbroken to leave his only land home the wonderful Catamaran Marina.

“People are opportunities. The gift is in the interaction and the connection with another person, whether it lasts forever or not.”  – Colleen Seifert

“I believe that when you stop renewing, and are no longer open to change and the possibilities that continually unfold, you stop being alive and are just getting through the years.” – Oprah

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>.     https://photos.app.goo.gl/WsG3SduXwScnnVzS8

Possibly our last month in Rio Dulce?? We are not sure…..

Prepping to leave

We had/have just a few things to organise before we left Guatemala. As we have plans for travel further afield this year we needed our insurance updated. For this we planned to meet our surveyor near his home in Cayo Quemado.

We motored down river and went to Texas Mike’s place for dinner. John having his favourite, chicken fried steak, which is actually fried pork in a crust of breadcrumbs with gravy. He assures me it tastes great.

Well, our surveyor never came and we couldn’t get ahold of him, so back to Catamaran we went. He eventually arrived some days later….And yes, we have our survey. It’s actually brilliant.

Visit to Grutas El Encanto

With our Catamaran family of friends we went to Grutas El Encanto for the day. It is actually what it’s name implies grottos/caves that have an underwater stream where you can enter and explore.

The guide takes you deep underground where he tells you all about the stalactites, stalagmites and other cave phenomenon.

I didn’t do the underground exploration as I had a few open sores on my feet and that water is not the cleanest. However John went, was the camera man and reported it was interesting, there were a lot of bats flying about and some of the group covered themselves with mud for beauty purposes……

We, Steve and I, the ones who didn’t go, explored around the grounds and chatted.

Once everyone was back, cleaned up and dried we all had a delicious lunch. I loved the nachos! 

Birthday time

We always celebrate birthdays at the marina. But I dislike fuss, plus I prefer to do something, usually a trip or an adventure. This year, the weather was somewhat rainy and we really had spent so many days away I opted for a very low key birthday. We had a walk around Fronteras.

It is such a colourful little town, always lots of action, noises, music, folks buzzing about their daily business, selling every imaginable item, full of colour of every flavour…. Around the back lanes, under the bridge and then down the main streets where there is virtually no room to move due to all the people and traffic.

That day I looked for a new bag to carry my camera. I found a good one in one of the stores off the main street. One of the stores, where it seems absolutely everything can be found, as it crammed floor to ceiling with merchandise.

My second desire was to visit Mega Paca, this is the huge second hand merchandise chain in Guatemala. There I found some nearly new sleeveless shirts. After which we had a very nice lunch at a cafe.

Returning to the marina Muriel surprised me with a wonderful carrot cake. So, I had to share, and took slices to the pool bar for everyone to enjoy.

Mavi’s birthday was celebrated with a surprise party at the pool bar. She is the manager of the hotel and marina. We have known her for many years. It was a lovely celebration with the staff and cruisers enjoying the foods and drinks together for an hour. 

Walks on pipeline

With the slightly cooler temperatures we once again started our pipeline walks. The pipeline actually runs from Mexico all the way through, across the Rio and to Purto Barrios.

The roadway/track that runs along side it for a ways runs from a village near Fronteras all the way to Esmirelda, a village across the river from the marina.

There, many of the plantation workers live, plus there are many very luxurious homes of the extremely wealthy. For example the owner of Gallo beer and Tiago cellular companies…..folks with helicopters, mega motor yachts and such.

This little roadway can be very bumpy with huge potholes being created when we get heavy rains, plus deep mud in the hollows. So we were not really surprised to find that the roadway was being resurfaced, using brand new equipment. 

I enjoy this roadway as it is normally very quiet with just the rubber plantation or palm oil plantation folks about. This means you can often spot birds.

Another walk we enjoy is out of Fronteras towards the Castile/Castle. We enjoy this road on Sunday’s when there is less traffic.

The dreaded mining company uses the El Estor branch of this roadway for trucking their mining spoils. Huge trucks of ore lumber by at quite a dangerous rate.

The drivers are amused when blowing/blasting their horns on passing, stirring up dust and expelling fumes. On Sunday’s there is much less traffic.

We pass the cocoa plantation, a palm oil plantation and then do the circuit through the village by the Castile. Again there is lots to see….. 

On another day, we enjoyed a nearly traffic free walk. This one through Fronteras and over the bridge, under and back with virtually no traffic as there were demonstrations.

The folks here demonstrate by blocking the roads to all traffic. This really annoys many people, but gets the attention of the necessary departments. This Demonstration was concerning the mining companies. They are guilty of much of the environmental destruction in the area, poisoning part of the lake, and rivers, destroying the lands, taking ownership of the land that is rightfully the indigenous folks property. The trucks tear up the roads, drive dangerously and disregard the locals. They are owned, not by Guatemalans, but Russians, Ukrainians and believe it or not the Swiss. They do not care about Guatemala, just the mining rights. Lately, the story is that they have bribed a government official in order to “explore” an entire mountains side. Hopefully the locals get their way and those folks are stopped. 

Zaida’s baby

One day John, Derek and I went with Steve to see Zaida and her baby. Zaida is one of the Catamaran workers who we have known for years. Her babe is called Zaida too, she’s very little being just 5lbs when she was born.

We were welcomed and seated inside. Steve held the baby and we all were treated to mosh. Mosh is an oatmeal drink, made from oats. It is very nutritious and its milky flavour very nice. Zaida also showed us the pottery she paints and then sells.

Our plans keeps shifting due to the covid situation and the difficulty getting in and out of countries. However, we hope to leave near the end of December. Sailing through Belize, maybe stopping at isla Mujares, but landing in Marathon, Florida. Once there we intend to buy a few necessary odds and ends for Aeeshah. Leaving there we would hope to go to the Bahamas, before heading to Panama. But who knows what will be………

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/w5xQsdkhQB2QTKQq9

Tuesday

The day’s main task was to sell cattle. The buyer and extra crew arrived by 9:00.

The men had been out and rounded up the waiting cattle that had been in the field next to the house, herding them into the field by the corral.

They drove them into the pen by the corral. The mud was nearly as deep as some of the cattle stomachs, one went down and was dragged out by a lasso around the neck, poor guy, looked busted, but he did get up again.

The cattle were then herded into the next corral which led to the chute. Through the chute, they were pushed/encouraged/prodded along to the gate.

We were right there, Jack using the electronic wand to read the numbers. John writing the numbers, (each bull has a tag attached to it’s ear with all it’s information there); my job was to read out all the numbers: the bull’s number, identification and weight. 

The bulls needed to be over 900lbs or close to it to sell. We went through just over 100 bulls during the morning and from them there were just under 2 truck loads, they needed 16 bulls per truck.

The largest from the group were found by their tag numbers, lassoed, added to the group until they had 32 bulls the average weight of 906lbs.

Those rancheros were amazing! Their riding skills the best ever, they were like one with their hoses. The horses nimble and so fluid. One ranchero had his dog with him. The dog was nearly as good as the ranchero. he really knew his stuff!

Those poor bulls were off to market.

The next step for the cattle buyer and the men was to herd the sold 32 head of cattle through the jungle path up the mountain to the awaiting trucks from there they headed to market – Guatemala City.

We did hear one of the trucks got stuck in mud…… (I learnt that most of the cattle are trucked from Central American countries, eg Guatemala, El Salvador and trucked through Mexico. Fattened up on corn grain imported into the US. Shot full of growth hormones then slaughtered as American beef).

While Jack finished off the sale we went out on the ATV, to find his special walking stick he had left behind the previous day. We used the 3 wheeler again, went through the gate, across the very soggy field that was getting quite churned up by the bulls,

through another gate, an even muddier field all the way to the creek. There we retrieved the stick, and headed back.

After our lunch Jack and John went off on the same cross country ATV machine to follow the border out to where the excavator guy, Jose was digging ditches for drainage.

This is actually a full time job. So far 35 kilometres of ditch has been dug to drain the fields. They had quite a time, getting stuck and unstuck in the mud, both of them were covered in mud after.

 Me, I tidied up, read, wrote and got ready to make dinner. When John and Jack returned they took the big excavators out for exercise,

John drove a huge excavator into one of the fields, around and back, his 1st ever experience driving a huge excavator. (It had been used previously to make/excavate Jack’s airstrip.)

Wednesday

Today we were injecting bulls with dewormer, (that one that some folks are taking for covid lol) and other necessary meds, weighing them, recording their tags and registration numbers. We needed to complete a minimum of 200 head of cattle.

Now, we arise everyday with the sun, yep, Jack’s making coffee before 6:00am. The men go out before 7:00am to round-up  the day’s 200 odd bulls.

The first 100 odd were brought to the outer corral. They then are herded, pushed, prodded through into the second corral where the chute is located. This can take several rounds of trying to get them into the corral, bulls are not the most cooperative of animals.

Into the chute the first 10 or so go.

This can be a very unpredictable situation, the bulls jump on each other, crush each other, push, shove, rear, go backwards, somehow manage to turn half around, get their legs stuck in the bars, just so many possible scenarios.

Fortunately, there were only a couple of ugly situations where they got into impossible situations and by lunch just one poor little white bull with a broken leg, who had to be put down. 

The rancheros directed the bulls into the shoot then climbed the sides, injecting them with 3 different medications. The bulls really did not like getting injected.

My job was checking and reading the electronic recorder numbers to John. 1st the bulls number, 2nd his weight, and 3rd the last 4 digits of his registration. John’s task to find the number on the list, check it, write the weight and check the registration.

Meanwhile Jack used the wand to get the number from the red ear tag and when I pressed record he opened the chute gate, staying out of the bulls way. 

We did two shifts, one hundred plus in the morning, had lunch, then back out into the hot sun and did a second shift of over another one hundred – total of 226. Many of these were the younger, newer bulls which were more difficult we were told.

Then it was back to the house, for John and I a nice cup of tea. Following which John and Jack went off to start up tractors and I had a wonderful shower getting rid of all the bull dust and dirt aka BS.

Thursday

The main objective was to finish the herd, injections, tag, registration count and weight taking – of about 230 more bulls to do. As per yesterday the rancheros drove the rest of the herd in to the corrals.

 

This morning there seemed to be less fuss. I was told it was because most of these were older, and so had been through the process a few times.

All went well until we had one crazy physio bull. He got right up to the end of the chute, just before he was to enter the weigh bay he forced his head around, flipped up and got half way over the bars at the top. He was standing on the others and the sides of the bay.

He crashed down on a couple of others, was facing the wrong way, tried to charge out past all the others, of about 8 of them, causing a right pile up of bulls, with him on top, being unpredictable and dangerous. Believe it or not the rancheros got the ones beneath him out and down the chute to us, we read their info and weight and released them. Next the men forced the mad bull backwards down the chute into the weigh bay where he was finally read, weighed and released….… Everyone rancheros included got well out of the way when he was released.

The readings and weighing did go faster meaning that we were finished the 130 odd by 11:30 doing as much in the morning as took us all day the day before — easier cattle.

Our total was 438, making 12 unaccounted for. Jack had 800, but had sold off half over the year.

The afternoon was a quiet one, Jack paying off the men, checking his airstrip. John doing odd jobs, me getting packed up, watching for birds

and gazing out across the ranch watching the weather move in. The clouds approached from the northwest, gradually covering the sky,

the wind rose, the temperature dropped by about 15 degrees, the rain never fell.

Friday

The next morning started at about 4:30, I think……we had been told there would be an early start. I heard voices outside, the workers, Jack ground his beans in the kitchen area in the bathroom, (off the sleeping area is a bathroom with an added counter and small gas cooker for Jack’s morning coffee). We took that as a sign to get up. Then we were told to put our stuff outside ready to go....I nearly didn’t even get to use the bathroom or get dressed. John went down to make breakfast, so he never got to use the bathroom as it was locked up. We gobbled breakfast, washed up, everything was put away and out we went to the skiff.

Meanwhile a hog had walked past with a few men and was being put into a kayuko.

It was a very hasty goodbye to the ranch, the stuff was loaded, stacked in the skiff with a tiny bit of room for us. By 7:00 we were headed out. 

The passengers this day were ourselves, Jack, Juan again, Lucy his wife and 4 of her prized turkeys. 

Back down the canals, past the kayuko with the pig,

through the next 2 canals and out onto the river. The journey was just as beautiful on the return. Birds galore, in fact John and I saw a Questrel in the air above us, it’s long distinctive forked tail below it.

Once back at the ramp it was a reverse of when we arrived. Unpack the launcha, fuel up the gas containers, load up the jeep and off we go.

Back down the humpy, bumpy road towards Fronteras and Aeeshah.

It was one of the best trips ever. I just adored my time at Jack’s ranch….why? I love living simply, in wide open spaces surrounded by nature, able to observe all of the wonders around me.

Sitting on the top porch, watching the birds, the workers, the sheep, bulls, dogs, clouds, trees and the changing weather was wondrous for me.

John too loved the space, the totality of the space, but surrounded by jungle, mountains and the river with the sound of howler monkeys to fall asleep and wake up to.

Humankind has not woven the web of life. We are but one thread within it. Whatever we do to the web, we do to ourselves. All things are bound together. All things connect. 

Chief Seattle

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>> Off to Jack’s Ranch Pt1 — https://photos.app.goo.gl/w6Wszr3v93vUkSvy5

I found out we were going to Jack’s ranch 3 days before we headed out, and then knew virtually nothing of what to expect. All I heard was that, John had been chatting with Jack at the pool bar and expressed interest in his ranch, so an invitation was extended. The only other info I was given: it’s like camping and it’s work. Plus I needed wellington boots. Luckily for me Muriel and Tuddy had some for me to try out. 

Sunday

Off to La Torre we went to meet Jack, me with mixed expectations.

The journey to Jack’s ranch for me, was magical. We met Jack at La Torre for 10:00am. He told us what we might need in the way of foods, snacks, drinks and extras…not much really, as the jeep was already fully loaded with supplies. After which we hit the trail, heading down the main road out of Fronteras towards Belize.

This road wanders through settlements, past small farms and homes. It’s a very beaten way with deep potholes from the mining trucks, which Jack tried to avoid, often having to dodge across the road, around large trucks and slower traffic. 

Arriving at a muddy, potholed track, which we followed to the end where we saw the river. Jack’s man Juan had brought the river boat, a flat-bottomed skiff to pick us up, plus all the gear Jack had brought. I did sort of wonder how we all and it all was going to fit.…

Before we set off the propeller had to be changed on the skiff, as Juan had had a few mishaps and so the one on the skiff was all bent up.

Next we unloaded the jeep, Juan retrieved numerous empty gas containers from the skiff, which were then put in the jeep and off we drove to fill them with fuel.  Meanwhile Juan had to load everything into the skiff. Once we returned to the skiff we finished loading up with the fuel, climbed in and we were off down river. 

To the right was Guatemala, to the left Belize. There was absolutely nothing but thick dense jungle on the Belize side, while at first there were pastures and fields with a few trees on the Guatemalan side.

We saw virtually nobody else, just 2 kayuckos with solitary fishermen.

Further on there were no buildings, or homes of any type on the either side, just jungle.

It was very much the middle of nowhere. We sped along for 24 miles down river to get to Jack’ place taking about 1 1/2 hours.

However well before we got to the turn off, Jack said the property line began. He has 3,300 acres, but farms/ranches only 1/3 of it and the rest is jungle.

So, we suddenly swooped to the right, and into this small canal we shot, still at full speed. This canal was narrow with trees and mangroves along the side with their branches above creating a green tunnel.

After a few minutes we swooped into another bend and down another canal, this one as beautiful but with less foliage to dodge. Jack told us the  United Fruit Company, (now Chiquita Brands International), originally dug the ditch back in the 1960s.

Still further along while still going full speed we turned again, this ditch was cleared of the trees on either side and had been excavated by Jack and his men……it was the canal leading to the farm. There in the distance we could see the farm buildings.

The country side is just breathtakingly beautiful. Birds of numerous types swooping all around, the green of the fields, the elegant tall trees, the wooden farm buildings with the mountains behind, blue sky just behind all paint a surreal picture out in there in the middle of nowhere. 

We settled in, I made sandwiches for lunch, we made beds, packed foods away and got acquainted with where we would be bunking for the next 5 days.

Yes, it was very rustic, frugal but also functional. 

I just found the surroundings astoundingly beautiful and a feast for my eyes. Just sitting on the porch watching the birds swoop by, the turkeys wandering past, the sheep and cattle grazing was pure entertainment.

But we were to be off, out on the ATV buggy, Jack on front, John driving and me sitting behind, zooming through the fields, through the long water soaked grass.

Yep, the fields look wonderful, but they are water logged, thus the canals that run along the edges. Now at first riding along was nerve wracking, as I knew John had never driven this type of contraption before and here I was just perched on the back. We had to stop at barb wire gates to enter fields then we went up the sides of the fields onto the ramps above the drainage canals. 

Why were we doing this? Apparently, not for entertainment, we were out going along these boundary lines looking to see if there were any problems. Jack was observing work that had been completed and work that needed to be completed.

For example dredging to drain the fields of as much water as possible or clearing the weeds from the grass for the cattle. At one huge hole in the mud we became stuck, we finally got going again, but John lost his nerve and Jack took over driving.

Riding along the top of these ridges was mighty scary at first, as you have deep mud to the right and deep muddy water at the bottom on right, neither way do you want to fall.

We did one whole borderline and then went back and headed to the creek.

Well, just before the creek we got really stuck deep in the mud. Jack dug in deep with the throttle, the wheels spun and finally we were out of the mud hole, but me being on the back was covered in black mud, just covered! Even some on my camera, but I knew to leave the mud, let it dry and hopefully shake it off. It was to be my initiation to the mud of Jack’s ranch.

Back at the ranch, I managed to shed the boots, drop the clothes and climb into the shower to rid myself of all the mud. 

Dinner is early so that we avoid the mosquitoes and have some light. We ate on the front porch and then retired upstairs for the rest of the evening. Reading, gazing out across the fields, chatting and relaxing were the evening pastimes.

Monday

What a morning!! …… Up at daylight with the birds, lovely sunrise, howler monkeys crying in the distance from the mountains, sheep bleating and turkey gobbling all around.

Scrambled eggs and toast to eat and tea for me, coffee for them before we hit the trail. The men – rancheros arrived and went off to drive a herd of cattle back to the nearby fields to ready for weighing for market. 

As soon as the men and 100 head of cattle returned we were off. The objective was to go by the skiff to the other farthest corner of the property, then to walk the boundary lines back. Sounded fairly normal, straight forward however I was wearing Wellington boots for the first time ever. 

The skiff took us slowly along the canal of the southern boundary. Jack and Juan discussing work to be done, changes to make etc. All the time there were numerous birds flying and swooping past. Across the fields you could see all types of birds, some I’d never seen before, like a huge Wood Stork.

Along the sides of the canal, water lilies grew and thousands of crabs crawled along with huge insects into the grasses to hide.

And then we were at the corner where we climbed onto the muddy bank.

Now those fields look like lovely green pastures that one could gallop a horse across, but they are not. They are full of water, which makes deep mud in the hollows. They have stumps, rotten logs, deep holes, boulders and snakes.

You have to pick your feet up high, pulling the boots out of mud while stumbling over the long grass, logs and boulders all of which are wet. Damn hard work! All the while following the group, trying to keep up plus take a few pictures, in the sweltering hot sun, not a stroll in the park, more a slog in the mud. 

We followed the boundary line of barbed wire, “field” to the one side and jungle to the other. Again this was a reconnaissance mission for Jack, checking the state of the fields, checking the work that had been accomplished through the month, looking for what needs to be completed. Here his main concern was the state of the grass.

This grass was cane grass which had grown head height and had gone to seed. Also the weed that was growing between was not good. Well, it didn’t take me long to feel tired. It was still early, 8:30, but getting just so hot. I kept up pretty well, but could tell I wouldn’t be able to continue all morning. (Found out later the temperature was in the low 90sF) We saw a few of Jack’s water buffalo in the distance. And I learned they can be dangerous too.

There was a whistle and a call, the group of workers that were out spraying had found a fallen bull. Oh, the poor animal, it’s leg had slipped into a hole and broken. It couldn’t get up and was in so much pain, his eyes were glazed in pain. The decision was made that the butcher was to be called, Mr Bull was to be put down and his meat sold. (Apparently he went for about $210 he was about 600lbs in weight.) 

Off again we trudged, the terrain became muddier from the streams running off the mountains, they called them creeks and under ground rivers.

Crossing streams, creeks whatever, my boots would get so stuck nearly to the knee that I thought I’d never get free. The mud just sucks you down, then you loose your balance and if your not careful down you go. I never fell, but many times I needed assistance to get out of the mud. 

Jack’s objective was to walk the border, climb to the ridge, look out, climb down, walk the rest of the boundary back. However, he had also arranged for one of the fellows to bring a skiff down one of the canals, to walk across and meet us incase we needed to go back with him.

By this time I’d had enough and over heating, all my water gone. It was getting close to 10:30 and I’d had enough……so I jumped at the chance to return.

John too was exhausted, told me he was shattered, he chose to return, but Jack went on, he needed to see the boundary. 

The walk to the skiff was still challenging. Believe it or not we had to retrace some of out tracks and then walk the edge of another muddy canal crossing several very muddy ditches. But Jose, who was with us would help me across all the obstacles.

The sight of the skiff was very comforting indeed, I could not have continued much further.

John too was very tired, we just sank onto the hot ,muddy, seats and enjoyed the breeze as we drove home along canals to the ranch.

Enjoying the magnificent scenery all around us. Just amazingly beautiful, wild, free…

Once there we both downed a cold coke and rested our tired bones. 

John had to take the 4 wheel drive back out to meet Jack along the boundary at the creek.

I literally just dropped my boots, shed my clothes and stood under the cold shower, that cold water felt so good. 

The afternoon was much quieter. John and Jack worked on the mule, fitting a system for spraying the fields. I relaxed, read, wrote, tidied up and watched them working on the mule. 

Evening again was quiet, early dinner of soup and delicious tortillas that Maria had made followed by a game of Rummikub.

We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. 

Mike Robbins

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience

 Eleanor Roosevelt