Aeeshah

 

PHOTO ALBUM ->> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FF82nsrvDQMoNH5S6

Thanks!

For all the rain, but really we have had enough now. The area had been suffering from a terrible drought. There was no water in the town, laundry couldn’t be done, the locals were protesting, a state of emergency was declared for the region and huge water trucks were sent in to deliver water.

And then it rained, and rained, and rained. We felt overjoyed to start with, our laundry went in to be done, we filled our tanks with rain water instead of using the water maker, everyone was relieved. But now it has been two weeks of rain and really enough is enough. 

Then, finally the sun peeked out. 1st for a few hours and then for a near full day. By this time we were back at the Red Frog anchorage and so took full advantage of the weather.

We walked to the beach, seeing sloths along the way. We strolled the beach and had a wonderful lunch at Macho Mommas. Their fish tacos are just amazing, John goes for the fish and chips.

After lunch we took the trail back to the look out area at the end of the beach

and enjoyed watching the surge crashing on the rocks. On our way back we spotted the Red Frogs and sloth.

Flat batteries 

Meanwhile, our batteries arrived from Panama City. The old ones were nearly 5 years old when they started to fade and before long they faded and died. It meant we were using the generator for hours in the morning and hours in the evening. Plus with the lack of sunshine, due to all the cloudy rainy days the solar array just wasn’t doing it.

We arranged to have Bocas Marine bring them in. John was really happy, he got them installed in a few hours and voila!! Lots of power, plus staying power as they are new. 

Dead Fridge = big inconvenience

Coincidentally our fridge was unable to maintain power. John was sure it was connected to the batteries, then he decided it was fuses that needed replacing and then it too died. That was a sad day when our fridge died, as the freezer was full of food too.

We were then reliant on bags of ice to try to keep everything chilled, needless to say that barely works. This also meant we had to be anchored near the town, which is far from ideal. The refrigeration fellow was busy, we waited a week for him to get back to us and come, but didn’t even hear back from him. Finally, just as we were giving up and had ordered a new fridge, we heard back from him. He had a second hand circuit board which should work in the fridge.

The next day we finally met up in Bocas town, got the part, John carefully installed it and, YES! The fridge started and has continued to work. 

Anchored off Bocas town

All this time we were anchored in the Bocas town south anchorage. This is not a good anchorage, the holding is poor and the water taxis zoom right through, usually 4 of them just before and just after the hour. But, we needed to be near our ice source and close to town for the repair man. However on the plus side there were lovely views across the bay towards the mountains.

Beautiful sunsets, bright early mornings, cloud displays in the distant mountains and approaching weather to watch. 

What else to do around Bocas town?

Most, if not everyday, we did a walk around the town, seeing what there was new or happening up and down the streets. One day we stopped and watched the ferry loading up.

There are no roads or bridges here from the mainland, everything and person arrives by water, (or some, not many, by air). The ferries are quite large and carry, people, livestock, foods, delivery trucks, tankers, container trucks, basically everything.

The container trucks and such have very little room to maneuver when going back aboard the ferry. We spent about half an hour, hanging out with some local men, watching the ferry reload, a bit like a game of Tetris.

Chico 

One of the days we took Chico ashore in his carrier and set off to the local vet. Dr. Gloria was very young and knowledgeable. She gave Chico his shots without too much trouble and then strongly recommended he go on a diet for obese cats. He’s in danger of many health issues, diabetes, bone issues, joint issues, liver problems…….

Of course I said YES! It’s a special formula, plus a liquid medication. He is only allowed 70g of food a day. We bought a little scale to get the amount right and so far he seems happy and healthy enough. Hopefully this time we see some results, cause at 24lbs he really is too heavy.

Red Frog anchorage

Being back in the Red Frog anchorage, life is once again peaceful.

The local empanada girl comes by around 7:30am to sell us pollo empanadas, which we have for lunch. The holding is great, hardly a water taxi do we see,

there’s a lovely breeze, life is back to normal. 

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/GyF8rA1HvrYhXBAA9

John and I continued to enjoy our walks around Red Frog. We both love walking the Red Frog beach especially in the early morning as there are so few folks about.

The lane to Polo Beach had been blocked off, supposedly to stop golf carts, but we just walked through the mud and onward to the beach.

We ventured as far as Polo Beach and even met Polo. The walk was quite warm, as normal, but we cooled off with a refreshing swim once at the far end of Polo Beach. It was lovely, not a soul about and the scenery is always amazing.

Lunches were enjoyed at Macho Mamas, after a walk along the beach.

Many other times climbing to the heights of Red Frog via the pathways, its lovely and shaded and never anyone about.

A treat is spying a large troop of monkeys. We still find it challenging spotting sloths in the trees. The yellow grasshoppers are fewer now, all these kept us busy on our daily morning walks.

At anchor

However the time had come to leave Red Frog Marina and head out to explore anchorages. We said our – see you laters to our marina friends and motored off to the Red Frog anchorage.

I should mention that there has been little wind in the area since we have been here, so sailing isn’t really an option, yet.

The Isla Colon anchorages

Anchoring in the south anchorage off the Bocas town meant we could stock up on essentials. However the anchorage is like a freeway of water taxis, they zoom right through the anchorage, so, we did our shopping and left the next morning. Next time we go to town we will anchor in the north anchorage.

The holding in both anchorages is not the best and as said the water taxis fly right through, even at night without any lights. These anchorages are just for getting supplies. 

Dolphin Bay, 

also known as Laguna Bocatorito is a lagoon between the Island of Cristobal and a peninsular with an irregular shape extending from mainland Panama. The lagoon extends for about 4 miles, is surrounded by mangroves which in turn, attract an abundance of small fish and crustaceans which makes it a perfect habitat for dolphins.

These dolphins are the Bottlenose variety, and are unique as they share a particular genetic trait. 

We anchored the first night at the eastern part between several mangrove cays. It was very peaceful with only a few water taxis passing, nothing like the dozens in the Bocas anchorage. And, yes, we did spot many Dolphins. 

For our next several nights we were anchored in the southern part of the huge Dolphin lagoon. On our way across we were followed by several Dolphins that played at racing Aeeshah off the bow as we motored along. 

In the anchorage it was incredibly peaceful with virtually no water traffic. The waters were normally dead calm, affording amazing reflections.

Each day we would set off to explore the shoreline. Slowly cruising in the dinghy past the small indigenous Ngabe settlements, waving to the friendly children.

Enjoying the peaceful surroundings, looking for birds, crocodiles, dolphins enjoying the scenery.

Greenacres caoco farm tour:

Near where we were anchored was the Greenacres Caoco Farm. We called the number posted and arranged a visit. It was halloween and when we arrived there were decoration hanging all around ….

The property is lovely, the gardens are beautifully kept, the forested area with the large Almendro trees was left in its natural state to encourage the growth of these majestic trees.

The owner Gary, and his helper Elmer showed us around. Gary introduced us to many edible local plants all of which tasted surprisingly good. The names of which I do not remember.

He helps the locals with sustainable local plant farming by planting and encouraging them to grow and eat the local plants and not rely on what the town stores offer for sale by way of Western foods. (That are generally not nutritious)

 Gary also has a replanting of forest trees program where he supplies the saplings of the Almendro tree to reforest where these trees have been felled. These particular trees are the main life givers of the jungle. Many, many animals, insects, and plants rely on them for homes. And as we know all life is inter connected.

Gary showed us his Caoco trees and the fruit. We sampled the pulp, plus he had us crunch the beans. Previously I had always spat the beans out, but amazingly they tasted quite nice, however I still prefer the pulp.

There are differing types of the plant which produce differing colored pods and each produces a differing flavor. He showed us that in the discarded bean pods, where there was water held due to the rain, were little green frogs hiding away. he said these ones were the same as the the red frogs, but had developed their own special color trait.

And of course there are sloths hanging from the branches of the trees.

Gary’s Cacoa bean set up is very basic. There is the drying rack where each month the newest batch of beans are set to dry in the sunshine.

There are his homemade machines all in a small shed where his entire production takes place. 

It was a lovely walk back to his home through the lush gardens.

At the house there were a selection of treats for us to sample, chocolate tea, nibs, chocolate with coconut and with a ginger peanut butter mix, plus 2 different chocolate cream rum shots to enjoy.

Gary also has a few Green parts that he has rescued. I asked to see them and so we went to where they are kept. These were babies when he found or got them. Ideally he would like to rehabilitate them to the wild.

Both John and I felt slightly buzzed from the pure chocolate, a very nice feeling. I rated the visit to Green Acres as excellent.

Celebrations in Bocas del Toro

November is full of holidays/ celebrations in Panama and especially Bocas. These are celebrations of history, heritage and independence.

The main way the locals in Bocas celebrate is by having drumming and rhythmic band competitions plus marches and Fiestas Patrias. Unfortunately the weather was uncooperative for some of these days, so we never got to see many.

However, one morning we did see the speeches at the start of a parade. Everyone was dressed up in their uniforms waiting to start. Apparently it is an honor to be part of the march, only the special are chosen or earn the privilege.

The best in the class at school, the honor students, the important are chosen, but everyone wants to so the completion is fierce all through the year. And they practice all year. The rest of the folks are spectators who stand and cheer them on. On the final day they have an epic parade, which we missed due to rain, but despite this we could hear the bands all the way from the Red Frog anchorage. 

Hiking Isla Carenero

It was my birthday and when asked what I wanted, I stated, 1stly not cooking for a whole day, and secondly a good walk somewhere new. So a plan was laid, breakfast at JJs, walk around Isla Carenero, light street food for lunch and a Mediterranean take out dinner.

Breakfast at JJs was as usual excellent! I just love their Breakfast sandwich. From there we went and caught/got a water taxi to: 

Carenero Island

Carenero Island (in Spanish: Isla Carenero) is a long and forested island located just a few hundred meters east of Isla Colón. The name of the island comes from the nautical term careening, which means to lean a ship on its side for repairing or scraping its hull.

There are no roads on the island, just tracks mainly leading from one place to the next or around the fringe of Carenero. We got a water taxi from Bocas town on Isla Colon to a dock along the south shore. And basically set off in the easterly direction.

It proved to be a lovely walk. The path runs alone the shoreline which is lined with palm trees and mainly sandy beach. The day was a bit over cast when we started and as usual we were accompanied by a couple of local dogs. 

On the inside we could see thick mangrove swampy area which also had massive trees with huge roots twisting and winding all over the swamp. I found these trees and roots quite fascinating.

Plus there were hundreds of crabs and hermit crabs scurrying along getting on with their daily business. 

Often water ways drained from the swampy inland to the beach and we climbed along logs or rustic walkways. At the eastern end there was a look out point and the option to cut the walk short by heading along a path across the swamp, we chose to carry on.

The next part of the trail along the northern shore became rougher with several slopes to scramble up, roots to climb through and cliffs to climb down, but all easily done. Still looking out across the water the views were lovely especially as the day brightened up.

Further along we passed a few newish homes obviously foreign owned as they had privacy signs, gates, fences and barbed wire. One had even tried to block the path with barbed wire and a feeble fence.

From there around to the western shore the path lead in front of pretty homes and lodges, leading all the way to the small settlement where the locals live.

We were a bit disappointed by the trash around the settlement, everywhere trash had been dropped and left.

Back along the southern shore the views were stunning as the sun was out fully from behind the clouds and the morning was now hot. We waited at the dock and got a passing water taxi back to town.

Back at the boat we were going to move to a deeper anchorage away from the town when we discovered we had lost the depth, speed and direction instruments. hummm! It had to have been the lightening the night before. Very disappointing as we had just replaced to old set with this new one. And it meant we had to return to the Red Frog anchorage where we had recorded depth soundings.

So just like that my Birthday was over. However, John has subsequently put the old electronics back in and we have our depth, wind and direction again

Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte

From the Red Frog anchorage we took the dinghy across to Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte aka Nancy cay.

When we arrived we found that there is no dock just the trees at the beach to leave the dinghy tied to. Nobody was about and we found that the buildings are in a private grounds area.

Never mind we set off to find the old cemetery. This whole area was used by the United Food Company from 1899-1920 for their banana plantation workers. However a blight killed off most of the bananas they were growing and several workers died from Yellow Fever and Malaria, thus the cemetery.

After following a few different paths we found the cemetery under some very large shady trees, a lonely place indeed. We decided to continue on the same path as it headed down island and it proved to be just wonderful.

Most of the way we were accompanied by 2 sweet little dogs who found us. The path wove uphill through  forested slopes, downhill through muddy areas, past a few distant local homes where chickens ran from us.

The trees were huge, keeping us shaded the whole way. We finally reached a fork in the path both directions leading downhill towards opposite shores and decided we should head back.

We had been along this path for over an hour and really needed to get back and check our dinghy. It was just as wonderful heading back. All was fine we said goodbye to the dogs and dinghied back along the shoreline.

The shoreline was quite lovely too with shallow reefs and the forested island behind.

I really feel that for me the over all theme of this past month has been reflection, in so many aspects of the month there has been reflection, of my life, on beliefs, of others and in the daily views around me.

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM >>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/gDKqjjNfvUjrtMX18

Off to Panama City 

We had a few odds and ends to do in Panama City, plus we had missed celebrating John’s 70th Birthday so we decided to turn the trip into a road adventure.

From Bocas we flew to Albrook where we once again stayed in the Wyndham Albrook mall hotel. This hotel is attached to the enormous mall and close to Albrook airport making it really convenient. 

Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo

Our first day trip was into Panama City to Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo, this area is the fabulous old city of Panama. UNESCO has recognized the old city’s cultural and architectural importance and listed Old Town as a World Heritage Site.

A walking tour with Conrad

 I was thinking we would do a self guided walking tour. We had an online map and figured we would follow along. Our first stop was where the taxi dropped us at the:

Iglesias Casco Antiguo,

a church, which was founded in 1609 and appeared interesting to look around. The relics, statues and painting were obviously incredibly old.

After the church we were trying to find our way to the next site when an older gentleman stopped us and offered a tour. We were hesitant, but he was persistent and persuasive. So that was how we hooked up with Conrad for the morning’s street tour. He really knew his history and the stories of the city and characters that it was renowned for.

We walked onto the Iglesia de san Jose with its Golden Altar,

not solid gold but carved mahogany covered with gold leaf. Again a magnificent church.

Next stop was the Iglesia de la Company de Jesus which is essentially just ruins of what was in 1641 built as Jesuit monastery, apparently in 1767 the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the Colonies and the church was abandoned.

All along the way we walked along narrow quaint alleys and streets listening to Conrad’s stories which were interesting and numerous.

Passing various museums, churches, government buildings,

the French embassy,

along Calle 5 where venders were selling Panamanian mementos, the mollas were beautiful.

From the top of the old city walls we could gaze over the Pacific Ocean,

below us a rocky beach and various seabirds rested.

There’s a magnificent vista of the sky-scraper-pocked skyline of the modern business zone across the water.

We passed the Plaza de Francia walked along to Las Bovedas. A row of nine vaulted spaces called bóvedas, or “the vaults” these originally functioned as a Spanish dungeon and later as a jail, storehouse and offices. Conrad had gruesome stories about these vaults. 

Conrad took us into a Panamanian hat store where they made and sold these special hats. Again he had much to tell and explain to us. 

Passing by Casa Gongora, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asis which is now the Ministry for Home Affairs,

the Plaza Bolivar and Parque Bolivar, all the time dear Conrad was explaining the history and telling stories, too numerous to tell.

In the distance we could hear the rumble of thunder, it was lunch time, we could tell Conrad was tired, he didn’t want lunch with us so was paid him well, thanked him profusely and went to the restaurant he recommended.

Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum

After a wonderful lunch we visited the Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum. It was surprisingly large and gave the full history of the area starting way before in pre Columbian times.

The history is really, horrible, the people, the workers were not treated well, especially black folks. Overall the Americans were harsh, unfair, task masters. 

There was a section that was from National Geographic which dealt with the pollution of plastic which was horrific!

Off to El Valle de Anton

For our 2nd full day we had arranged to pick up a car at the Albrook airport for 10:00am and by 10:30 we were on the Pan-American Highway out of the city. This is the main artery from North America to Central America and Panama.

We were headed to El Valle de Anton where we had the Eclipse hotel booked. Using our Google navigator we easily exited the city, crossed the Panama Canal on the famous Panama Canal bridge

and before we knew it we were turning off onto a small country lane towards El Valle de Anton, but to me it didn’t make sense as according to my info we were still some many miles away from El Valle de Anton. Anyway we drove along the lane to check out our hotel as that’s where is was located.

Seeing the Eclipse Hotel as we passed it looked like a very nice place, but it was too early to check in so we decided to drive on towards where google maps indicated El Valle was to be found.

We followed our Google map driving guide into the mountains. The scenery was stunning driving down the increasingly narrow lane. We reached an “intersection” ….straight ahead, left or right? Our driving guide said straight ahead, so off we went.

This was a very steep lane that turned into an unpaved track, but with no room to turn, deep, ditches on either side we had to keep going, up and up, around and about sharp bends. Finally, reaching a dead end at the Laguna – Lake, oh and camping site. I jumped out to take a photo when a young couple climbed up the path from the lake.

We said hello and then John proceeded to turn the car around. That was when they called out to us…..we had a very flat front tyre. Probably from all the off road driving we had just done. The couple were from Venezuela, had relocated to Panama and were out looking at property.

He helped John with the tyre and then they drove slowly in front of us all the way down. I think they were perturbed to find 2 old, dears, out in the middle of nowhere….

We backtracked down the track and then tried the right turning. This too proved to be a dead end, just leading to farmlands. Back down again we went this time stopping at Eclipse, our hotel, to check in and leave our bags. The lady there told us where to go along the PanAmerican highway to get our punctured tyre fixed, so off we went.

By now it was well past lunch, too late for lunch we had a few tangerines. The tyre place was only a few miles down the PanAmerican highway. The tyre was fixed within 20 minutes and only cost $11.

Back to Eclipse we headed.

This hotel was miles away from where we had hoped to be, but it was just lovely. Out in the middle of nowhere, with excellent views of the Pacific ocean in the distance and mountains on the other side of the building. Plus they served great food for dinner and breakfast too.

The next morning we set off to find El Valle de Anton, guessing it must be down the left hand turning. (Of course we could have gone via the PanAmerican highway, but didn’t)

This left hand bend led up to wonderful countryside. It was absolutely beautiful with the farmland and the mountains, streams and rivers.

Yes, again the lane was narrow, with ditches on either side and very steep at times, with sharp bends, but again with very little traffic. We both thoroughly enjoyed the journey and found El Valle.

El Valle de Anton 

The town of El Valle is beautiful! It is situated in the crater of an extinct volcano, surrounded by mountains. The feel was almost alpine.

Our first stop was the butterfly farm: Butterfly Haven.

Here we took a tour, first learning all about different species of butterflies and moths. We saw the caterpillars, then the chrysalises. After which we entered the breeding and flying zone, an enclosed garden. We both loved the Owl Eyed moths.

Their markings are so realistically like an eye it’s just incredible. The Blue Morpho  butterflies are very beautiful when flying flashing their blue inner wings, but when they land their exterior wing colour is a mix of brown markings.

There were glass butterflies with clear wings, red butterflies, green ones, yellow ones, just so many different types and sizes. We both were well entertained.

I had various sites in mind for our next stops, but by sheer accident we ended up at the Piedra Pintada entrance site. This is where there is a huge rock with hieroglyphics….not knowing that this was also the trail head for the Sleeping Indian Woman hike,

La India Dormida.  

La India Dormida which translates into The Sleeping Indian Girl, is a mountain ridge that’s shaped like a sleeping woman’s body. You can easily see the resemblance when looking at it from El Valle de Anton (not so much when you’re actually on top of the mountain).

Anyway, oblivious to the distance or difficulty, off we trekked with just my camera and a bottle of water…..  I did wonder why the group of teens ahead of us had two bottles of water each with them. Seeing all these teens with their teacher escorts I was pleased that they headed off leaving the trail quiet and empty for us. However we came across them at the large rock, Piedra Pintada and figured we would go a bit further and see the famous rock when we returned. 

Up and up we hiked and climbed, the pathway was very slippery at times as small streams crossed it. We passed many lovely waterfalls, everything was millions of tones of green. The group of teens and their teachers passed us hurrying up the trail. …

Still the trail continued, steeper with boulders to climb over and slippery mud. Up and up we followed, we caught up with one of the teachers and a few of the slower students, so we ended up chatting and hiking together for aways.

The few folks coming down kept telling us how much further we had, 45 minutes at least, oh half an hour. Finally we came to a vista where we could see just how high we had climbed. Like WOW! The view was wonderful,

John asked me if I wanted to head down, “hell no!” Not after investing all that energy I wanted to reach the top. So on I slogged, John found it easier, my thighs were in pain with all the steep climbing. Plus I was wondering how the heck I was gonna get down?? 

Finally, we broke out of the trees and onto the ridge line, what a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.

The path then followed the ridge line, it was still a bit steep with sheer drop offs, but we could see ahead and around us.

We followed the rocky ridge line path all the way to the top of the Sleeping Indian Woman. And what a magnificent view! It was magic!

We enjoyed the top peak.

Admiring the views, looking across the valley.

Seeing all the mountains around us, cooling off in the breeze.

It was then time we headed down as we could see the clouds heading in across the valley.

The downward trek was tough! I had to be very careful not to slip and fall, but again the scenery was magical. The rain did arrive, but this just made the greens greener.

The school group bombed ahead so John and I had the pathway to ourselves. It was one of the best hikes ever!

And when we came across the large rock, Piedra Pintada nobody was there so we enjoyed it by ourselves.

Piedra Pintada is a giant rock, the largest of the petroglyphs and sculptures found in the Anton Valley dating back to pre-Columbian times, possibly about 8,000 years ago. 

So…2 and 1/2 hours after we started we emerged from the starting point, 2:30pm.

Here is a local myth told about the Sleeping Indian Girl:

Flor del Aire was the daughter of Urraca, the most successful Chief in Panama fighting against the Conquistadores. It was her misfortune to fall in love with one of the Spanish soldiers. Yavari, one of the strongest fighters of her tribe, vied for her affection. When she did not return his love, in despair, he jumped to his death from a mountain top before the Princess’ eyes. In sorrow Princess Flor del Aire left her home and never saw the Spaniard again.
She crossed mountains and valleys bitterly weeping over her fate. Above the beaches of the Caribbean she fell dead looking back at the beloved mountains where she had been born. The mountains were so touched by this sad love story they decided to form the shape of the Princess, and that is how the India Dormida arose.

Based on Presbitero José Noto, De Historia

We drove into the town parked up and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Then off we went to visit the local market. Which we enjoyed walking around, seeing and buying fruits, and a few local crafts.

Next stop Boca Chica

Having spent 2 nights in Eclipse Hotel near El Valle we were set to drive to a hotel I had booked in Boca Chica. The main objective that day was to cover some road miles and perhaps see a Pacific beach. We drove the Pan American highway and except for turn offs for large resorts we never saw any turn offs suggesting a beach.

Plus, we realized we had many miles to cover. After the turn off towards Bocca Chica we encountered miles and miles of roadworks, plus delays.

At Bocca Chica, I was quite surprised to find that I had booked us into a home stay…..after previous experiences we normally avoid home stays.

We met the owner who was very nice, she explained that they fostered dogs and cats. At present they had 5 dogs and 5 cats living in the home. They started fostering during covid. We were given a bedroom and offered breakfast for the next morning.

So off we went to stretch our legs and look around Bocca Chica. It’s really just a very small, rural, fishing village set in an inlet behind an island. We saw the fishing boats, and walked the village’s 2 lanes, went to the local “grocery store” which was very tiny, had a lobster dinner in a nice, little restaurant, and that was Bocca Chica.

Boquete

Our next destination was the famous Boquete, we set out after a very nice breakfast that the lady of the house cooked us. The day was bright but as we drove the clouds began to set in and the drizzle began to fall. This was the beginning of the side effect from hurricane Julia that was nearing and then passing Central America. 

 

Boquete is a small town on the Caldera River, in western Panama. The surrounding Chiriquí Highlands are home to coffee plantations and the Barú Volcano National Park, to the west. Highlights in the park include the towering Barú Volcano and Los Quetzales Trail, which offers sightings of the elusive quetzal bird. North of town, the Bajo Mono Loop drive has expansive views of the forest. All of which we hoped to see, but…..

Arriving in Boquete in the rain we found a parking spot and went for lunch and a warm drink, yes it was cold! I was freezing, the temperature was now 66 degrees Fahrenheit, all I had on were shorts and a sleelessT shirt. We pulled out the fleeces, in fact I wore a sweater and a fleece, and set out to enjoy a very nice lunch. 

Our hotel in Boquette was lovely, set in the highlands around the town, with a river running right through the gardens. Our room was wonderful so we really didn’t mind spending the rest of the day hanging out in the room, keeping warm and dry. Later going for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant and having an excellent meal.

In the morning the rain was unrelenting, it was just pouring down in torrents. Oviously our plans changed, we did the best we could to see what we could in the pouring rain.

First we bought umbrellas. We took a drive around the town, drove into the mountains for a few miles, stopped at a few bridges to watch the flooding rivers.

We walked through Boquete looking at shop windows, had lunch, got quite wet and returned to our hotel room.

We awoke to a wonderful blue sky the next morning.

The drive to Changuinola

It was time to drive to Changuinola to return the car to Avis. We needed to arrive by 1:00pm and we had 208 kilometers to drive. We really didn’t have time to stop for pictures so I clicked out the window trying to get a few good shots as the passing countryside was beautiful.

The road was narrow and windy, up into the mountains, passing farmland, rivers and gorges. As we climbed the clouds were gathering in the highlands.

As we descended  the farms changed from cattle to banana plantations and we could see the Caribbean sea between the tops of the mountains. In fact the whole flavor of the country side change from mountain to Caribbean shoreline.

Once at Changuinola we returned the car, got a taxi to Almirante and then a water taxi to Isla Colon followed by another back to Red Frog Marina. It was a wonderful trip, which we intend to repeat sometime in the future.

 

PHOTO ALBUM——>>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZdRAX3FMqrtjeizR8

Bocas Del Toro again

John and I flew via Atlanta, back to Panama City. There we booked into a brilliant hotel Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall, which was attached to the Albrook Mall and next to Albrook airport, very convenient for us.

We had most of the afternoon and then the next morning to visit the mall and get a few odds and ands that we needed. This mall is huge, and contains absolutely everything one could possibly need. The best buy was some hiking sandals for us both!

The flight back to Bocas took an hour. It’s a smaller plane with only about 30 passengers.

We flew over the Panama Canal, across to the Bocas del Toro archipelago right over Red Frog beach and swooped down onto Isla Colon.

After getting our baggage we sent off down the road dragging the bags behind us, through town and to the panga dock that serves Red Frog. Within 10 minutes we were at the dock of the marina and down to our Aeeshah. Don, Pam and Chico were aboard waiting for us.

Pam and Don stayed at Selina for a few days and spent the days with us.

We enjoyed several walks around Red Frog, a great breakfast and a lunch at La Palmer by the beach. And then they were gone ……

Life has been very much back to normal for us. 

We have continued and more or less finished a few boat chores we had lined up. John had the water maker seals to redo, a new water pump to install and the engine to bleed as it was air locked and secured the new solar panels.

Me, I’ve had the sewing repairs of canvas, (yet to do), the laundry of curtains etc, the cockpit to de-mold and set up, overall boring chores. Plus I had an infected spider bite which gave me hell….

We have been walking the trails everyday, up the slopes, down the paths, along the beaches around and about. 

Blue fluorescent bees, Turquoise butterflies, huge yellowy, brown crickets

As for what we have seen, the theme this month are insects; many huge grass-hoppers are just everywhere. They are quite magnificent, intricately designed with bright yellow, green and brown bodies, but bright red wings when they fly.

Blue bees, yes bright blue bees; apparently called Mason bees buzzing around 2 particular manholes.

And turquoise butterflies swarming around fluffy white blossoms in tall trees. Brilliant Red Dragon flies

Once again the birds are wonderful, so many and such varieties. From tiny little humming birds to bigger Montezuma oropendola, which are my favorite. 

An American pygmy kingfisher that alighted on a rock right next to me.

And bigger still the Black hawks and raptures.

It seems like we see sloths so very easily now. Everyday I look up and voila there is another looking down at me. One of our 1st beach walks we saw a sloth in the trees just behind the beach.

Another time there was a sloth hanging by its 2 hind legs eating off another tree while being upside down. Then there are the sweet shy ones that just sneak a peek at us down below where they chill. 

There was one beach walk that we came across a very unusual character. He was dress just like Tarzan in a brown loin cloth, had long blond dreads and had a machete he was using to chop coconuts.

We stopped and chatted. He was breakfasting off the coconuts he had cut down, was from Bosnia and seemed to imply he lived in the wilds.

Everyday we set out wondering what we might see or who we might meet while enjoying the scenery and wonders of Red Frog.

An ATV adventure on Isla Colon.

We went for an ATV adventure on Isla Colon. We hired from a place that rents electric bikes and ATVs…. Flying Pirates.

Our venture started off following the roadway down the center of the island. The road was in a very poor state, it couldn’t have been rougher, all loose rocks, huge potholes.

We traveled through what looked like some farmland, some forested areas with small rivers and some excavated areas. Overall a pretty ride.

At the end of the track we can to the shoreline of Boca del Drago, a small settlement where we parked and set off on foot.

Following the shoreline we walked a track, here the scenery was quite lovely, palm tree lined beach.

Past a few mangrove areas where you had to get over a rickety bridge and climb around some obstacles.

After about 20 minutes you come to Starfish beach. This is a well know tourist attraction, but we were lucky in that there were few tourists that day.

At a shoreline table we ordered lunch and a pineapple fruit drink form the food huts.

The fruit drink was exquisite, just wonderful. Our lunch of fish, rice plantains and coleslaw was very good too. 

After our lunch we set off back the way we had came, along the shoreline.

Then back onto the ATV and back down the hellish road. 

As we still had time when we reach where we had started we rode passed the rental place, and onto Playa Bluff. This “road” followed the shoreline and was sandy.

At some stages we had to literally ride through the water or on the beach. The scenery was very pretty, with long beaches and tall tall coconut palms.

On return we could see and hear an approaching thunderstorm approaching. However we were back at Aeeshah before any serious rain fell. 

 

 

Photo album—>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/vxDKgHCwTYxFyCFm9

It was time to travel back to Bermuda.

A year had passed since we had been home, which was longer than usual. 

Our friends Don and Pam arrived from the Rio Dulce, to care for Aeeshah and Chico.

For the first few days after their arrival we showed them the necessary know-how’s aboard Aeeshah. Being cruisers themselves they had plenty of experience with sailboats, but all boats are different. Plus they got to reacquaint themselves with Chico and learn his preferred routine.

We rented a golf cart and toured the entire Red Frog area. Doing this we had fun exploring all the lanes and tracks around the area. The highlights being Polo beach and finding 4 sloths in one area, oh and a cavern.

Bye bye Panama hello Bermuda

Off we went, our 1st flight aboard a small plane left Bocas and took us across Panama to Albrook airport, Pamama city.

There we taxied across the city to a hotel near Tocumen International airport. The next day we flew from Tocumen to Atlanta where again we spent a night and finally the following day we flew home. 

The near month in Bermuda whizzed by

As usual we had maintenance to be seen to, part of the Airbnb to paint, repairs to be done, power washing, mending, patching, sorting, and just so much to keep us very busy. There were doctor appointments, daily John drove Chrissie to work and picked her and Quest up, so in exchange we used her car. 

Kate’s place needed a few rooms painted, and we had May during the day instead of her going to summer camp.

We did some fun things with Missy May, going to Dockyard and having ice-creams,

building and painting Blue bird boxes for our woodland reserve,

plus the usual painting and drawing. Plus there was Jesse to feed some evenings.

One late afternoon we both walked the railway trails to the stable and fed old Jesse. He’s just as lovely as always.

Fern Island camp

One of the last weekends was the Fern Island camp. This time John and I did not spend the night. We went out Thursday with Gavin, Lily, Eve and May to set up the camp.

John cutting the grass, Gavin setting up the camp, then putting up tents,

the girls playing and swimming and me watching them, making sure all is good.

Friday out we went again,

this time there were Gavin, Katie, Lily, Eve, and Amy their dog; John and I with May and Quest, plus Ruben, Chrissie’s beau. Gavin and family were there for the weekend. Meeting us there were Kate and Josh arriving on Josh’s jet-ski, plus Sean and 2 of his girls, and Cloe their dog.

We had a fun day, the children swam about 80% of the time.  The rest of the time they explored all over Fern while the dogs bombed about.

The themes this year seemed to be jumping in from atop Gavin’s flying bridge, hanging out on the rocks and paddle boarding.

The kids also conned Josh into jet ski rides.

When you are talking about 6 children that ride for 10 minutes each, that was a lot of jet ski running about. Daniel and his two girls arrived later in the afternoon, Josh decided, no more jet ski rides. 

Saturday we were back to Fern, this time Chrissie came and Daniel’ s wife Melody plus the new puppy.

At this stage there were more children and dogs than adults. Everyone had a wonderful time, the kids were nonstop action,

swimming, paddle boarding, snorkeling, jumping off where-ever while most of the adults relaxed and looked on. Except Katie who did paddle board excursions around Fern.

Quest’s 5th Birthday

Another Saturday Quest had his 5th Birthday party at Gavin’s house. Again this year it was a family affair. We were really happy to see Rhianna there as we hadn’t seen her due to her being away with her Mom.

Plus Ethan popped by in the police car, this meant that for the first time in years all 6 of our grandchildren were present at the same time. Of course I had to line them up and take photos and it was like herding cats.

Then there was a slip’n slide to ride,

the pool to swim and jump in,

lots of chatting and catching up with extended family,

hot dogs and burgers to eat, birthday cup-cakes with Beyblades being the theme.

and presents, and so much more.

What a busy afternoon!

Earl passed by

We were visited by hurricane Earl the week before we left. He actually turned into a non event. It did blow a bit and the surf was up and ploughing ashore.

John and I took a trip to the cliffs above the Warwick coves and watched the surf.

The next day at Gavin’s place we saw an enormous bolder that had been turned and shifted by the seas. The power of the ocean is awesome.

Then before we realized it was time to return to Aeeshah and Chico. 

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/oAwPiQt9gG1GjafE9

Red Frog, Bocas Del Toro, Panama

John and I have really enjoyed our time here in Red Frog Marina, Bocas Del Torro. We get out almost daily and walk or ride our bikes around the many trails and paths.

We have an uphill trek. This takes us up a steep hill, passed different villas, (homes owned by expats, but they call them villas). Under tall trees that shade the lane nicely so it’s cooler than the blazing sunshine. We scan the trees for sloths and birds. We know where one sloth lives and usually can spot him.

The birds are harder to see, we hear them all around us but so far have only easily spotted the parrots. One day we did see a whole flock of green parrots and often we see vultures swooping over the jungle. Along the top of the hills we enjoy the views.

Next we follow overgrown pathways to the bottom. And choose which way we return to the marina. 

Another trek is along the Oceanside lane which connects to a rough track behind the beaches all the way to Polo beach.

Polo beach is wonderful. Protected by reefs the waters are much calmer. The palm trees shade the beach which is normally deserted. There is a fellow who sells coconuts and coconut water to visitors from a “stand”, but we have not see him yet. 

Along Polo beach we walk and then cut onto a pathway that leads behind the beach coming out onto a lovely cove and a small lagoon. The whole area is gorgeous! 

We also ride our bikes along the seaward trails. These trails are very bumpy, not that it bothers John.

After one ride we stopped at Macho Mamas for lunch.  After a long rough bike ride we both have a good appetite. 

Going to Macho Mamas for lunch is always a treat! The tacos are the best ever.

Plus sitting looking out over the beach is always fun. 

Much of our time has been spent getting Aeeshah ready for our departure. There was the entire boat, inside and out to clean. Every cupboard, cubby, box, nook and cranny had to be cleaned, debugged, sorted and repacked.

Then the toilet plumbing acted up, that nasty task had to be seen to by John. Yep, he had to take it apart, de-bung it and put it back again. I think that was the nastiest job.

My hardest job was the cockpit. It took a full day to clean, demold and prep the cockpit. That was hot work being out in the midday heat. Meanwhile we have paper wasps that are determined to live under the solar panels attached to the arch. Chico enjoys watching them. I think he now prefers them to birds. 

We went into Bocas town several times a week to stock up on cat food and litter.

The water taxi leaves Red Frog at 10:00am and then returns at 1:00. We have now become accustom to the town and know where most things can be found. It really is a nice, quiet town, clean and artsy. 

Our friends Don and Pam arrived at Red Frog as arranged. They stayed at Selina a very nice hostel on the island, for their first few days.

We spent the time teaching them about Aeeshah and of course Chico. Plus we went and had some fun. Our first day outing with them was along the lane to the beach.

We spotted the sloth and some Red Frogs along the way. It was a drizzly day but still the scenery at the beach was outstanding.

We checked out the lookout, then walked the beach to Macho Mamas for a taco lunch. Again the fish tacos were wonderful. 

The next day we hired a golf cart and headed out to see as much as the lanes around Red Frog allowed. 

All the way up the steep hill lanes we went, stopping to check out the “villas” and the views. We all agreed that the small homes that look out over the hillside and the sea are rather tempting.

We traveled all of the hillside lanes then took a track that John had ridden, but I had never seen. This lane was narrow, winding over undulating hills through the jungle.

The trees were just amazing! The birds we could hear made screeches and calls none of us had ever heard. Halfway along we had to carefully maneuver the golf cart under a fallen tree.

Further along we stopped to look at some caves.

The colors of the caves walls with the lichen and mosses were just lovely. And hanging down from above were very dramatic vines.

At the end of the lane we found the squatters home by the beach that we had walked to from Polo beach. I was quite disturbed by a poor dog that looked like it was starved.

We headed back down the lovely lane and off towards the beach for lunch.

This day we went to the other beach restaurant, at Palmar beach lodge. Here we all enjoyed a wonderful lunch while looking out over the beach.

From lunch we rode the golf cart to Polo Beach. Described as one of the most beautiful stretches of beach on Isla Bastimentos, this secluded section of coastline is ringed by a gorgeous coral reef, keeping the water calm and providing one of the most optimal environments in Bocas del Toro for snorkeling. As is usual we were nearly the only ones enjoying Polo Beach.

It is only accessible by a jungle hike, a golf cart ride down a very rough track or direct shoreline access by boat during calmer seas. The beach gets its name from an infamous “Polo” character who left the norms of life to make this stretch of land his home for years on end.

Apparently he can still be spotted occasionally in the area. We all enjoyed a stroll along the beach and then following the jungle pathway to the very end part of Polo beach.

The beach, the sea and shoreline along with the jungle makes for stunning scenery. 

Traveling back to the marina in our golf cart we stopped to see if we could find “our” sloth, the one and only we had found. Sure enough he was there.

Then we spotted another in the same tree, a much smaller one hidden away in the tree top. One of the security staff stopped and pointed out another across the lane….then another, making a total of four. This was high excitement for us, but it became all the more interesting when, low and behold….one climbed a palm tree by the side of the lane.

Then she/he climbed out onto the fonds overhanging the lane……grasped just a tiny branch of a tree across the lane….and believe it or not crossed over to that tree, effectively crossing the lane without going on the ground.

Sloths can move moderately fast when they wish to as he/she was across within 5 minutes, and sitting in the other tree grinning down at us. It was just amazing!

I love this area of Bocas del Toro!

We also headed into the town on the water taxi to show Don and Pam where to find the odds and ends they might need. We enjoyed a stroll around the whole town.

Don loved the fire station with its old fire engine. They both agreed that the town is delightful.

And then came the next morning when we had to leave Aeeshah and Chico to travel homeward. Pam and Don, who we have known for many years were moving on to Aeeshah to boat-sit and cat-sit while we flew home. We lugged our bags to the end of the dock to get the water taxi into Bocas. They climbed aboard Aeeshah with their 2 back packs. We arrived at Isla Colon, walked through the town to the airport, dragging our bags. There we boarded our flight to Panama City.

The flight took us over the Bocas Del Toro region. Even from the air the region is lovely. 

Landing at Albrook airport we caught a taxi to a hotel near Topumen International Airport.

2 days later we were home in Bermuda.

 

“In the midst of my skeptical, cynical, often pessimistic nature exists a slender capacity to believe, if only temporarily, in a guiding, unseen power, and whenever this happens, I go with it. That’s what inspiration is. You don’t get it from the gods. You make it.”

—  Jeffrey Eugenides

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zD2A96MHxoaxwxLm9

Passage to Panama

Our first 26hrs we covered 150 miles – day and night: Friday till Saturday

2nd day, 52hrs = 300 miles – day and night Saturday till Sunday 

3rd day, Sunday at 8:30 pm we reached 355miles, we stopped at Isla de Providencia for an overnight rest. (Had to go in at dark, but we had been there before so we had the waypoints)

4th day Monday, 08:00 until Tuesday 12:00; 480 miles behind us, getting closer

5th 24 hours, Tuesday until Wednesday morning at 05:00; 560 miles covered, just a few to go.

Wednesday, June 29th at 1:30pm we finally arrived in Bocas Del Torro, Panama. It took us: 5 days to cover 600 miles.

From leaving Marathon, Florida on May 13th till arriving in Bocas Del Torro June 29th; we traveled 1600 miles; that was an incredible journey.  

We have all agreed we have travelled enough for now, we need a rest. It can be very tiring.

Overall the passage was a mixed bag filled with some heavy seas, more light seas, some lightning and thunder from the distant tropical storm, more fair conditions, the calms that follow rough, winds ranged from 0 knots to 35 knots, but mostly we enjoyed10 knots to 15 knot breezes. We sailed a good 2/3 of the passage and motor sailed the rest. The only visitor was an enormous dragonfly which hitched a ride one night. I called him dragon, his wings sounded just like we had a drone aboard in the cockpit, but honest it was a dragonfly.

We came upon fields and fields of sargasso seaweed. The weed was so deep that if the engine was running we would wait till we cleared it and we had to reverse the engine to shed our load off the prop.

We also hit what we assumed was a log one night. We were smoothly sailing along when there was a big thud. John looked out, but saw nothing as it was too dark. However as soon as we arrived and were in the dinghy we could see the damage to the bow. The bottom paint on the bow was taken off right down to the fiberglass!

We sailed into Bocas Del Toro in the late morning of an overcast day. We were in our 1st new area, region, since pre-covid, an exciting new destination with new beginnings for us. Entering slowly the scenery looked amazing. Palm lined sandy white beaches, mountains in the back ground, and mostly uninhabited.

After finally finding an anchoring spot in the north anchorage we set off ashore to check in.

Finding the authorities was fairly easy, as they are right next to the ferry stop. In Panama you 1st see the Port Captain, who was a very pleasant lady. Here the authorities fill out most of the paperwork, which was also a pleasant surprise.

 2nd was the agricultural/health person. He was mainly interested in Chico, and photographed many of Chico’s documents and passport pages. Never even asked about covid.

Then came the immirgration guy accompanied by the customs fellow. More paperwork for them and we were checked in. Lastly we applied for our cruising permit, which takes a while to be processed. 

Bocas town

It was off to explore the town and figure out where everything was located. Basically Bocas town is one wide Main Street, Calle 3RA. Parallel to it runs smaller calles and across the calles you have the avendidas. The town is definately centered around the tourist, it is colourful and at night it sounds very lively.

There are several, well many grocery stores, all are very well stocked, most food items are available. 

There’s Johnnys bakery which sells baked goods and serves other excellent foods too. We had a wonderful sandwich there, a tuna panini, which they call just a tuna sandwich. 

There several large well stocked general stores/hardware stores which means that John is extremely happy. 

And very importantly excellent fresh produce stalls or venders. 

Another very nice cafe that we found is called JJ’s at Bocas Blended. There we found we could get an excellent breakfast plus use their dock for our dinghy, buy ice and dispose of trash.

Red Frog Marina

After nearly a week we headed over to Red Frog Marina, on Isla Basimentos, where we had a booking. Neither of us had any idea what to expect.

We were given a brilliant dock space, basically nearly at the end of the furthest finger pier, in other words way out at the end.

The manager took us on a mini tour around the resort in his golf cart. The place is huge!! Lots of walking to do. Both of us were very pleasantly surprised by the whole marina, resort etc set up. It really is quite self contained. As Marina guests we have use of all the facilities at no extra cost.

There’s a good laundry, a marina grocery store, nice bathhouse, good security and everything is well maintained and clean. The staff are all friendly and helpful, the dock where we are is too far out for Chico to roam into the jungle. In other words we are very happy with Red Frog.

We have taken several walks around some of the Red Frog property and some of the lanes that meander through, around and about.

At the beaches where we have wandered we enjoyed the sound of the surf crashing, the emptiness, the open space.

The surf attracts surfers as it is long rolling waves that eventually crash ashore there. Behind the 1st beach, called Red Frog, there are 2 small restaurants that serve the Selina hostel.

We have only tried 1 of them for breakfast and a lunch, both of which were very good. Afterwards we strolled along the beach, back along the lane to the marina. 

A bit further along the lane is the Red Frog resort beach club, which we have the use of too. We haven’t been here but have walked past and it looks very nice.

Further along still, from the beach club, is another quite wild stretch of beach with lovely shady trees from the jungle that lines the shore.

Still further along the lane is another area of beach that seems to be sheltered from the surf by a reef line and small isles that run along the shoreline. Here it might be possible to snorkel.

This scenery is wild, extreme and just wonderful. We haven’t ventured further along the trail yet as usually by this time the sun is overhead and getting hotter by the minute.

The other trails lead uphill between the villas that have been built in the jungle or are being built, some sold and some for sale. Along these lanes in the trees we have seen sloths hanging.

Did you know that Panama’s jungles are home to 3 of the 6 types of sloths, one of which, the Pygmy three toed sloth, is endangered. The other two types found here are the Brown Throated sloth and Hoffman’s sloth. Here are 10 incredible facts about sloths: (some of which we were told to me by the marina manager)

1. Without sloths there would be no avocados. …
2. Sloths are three times stronger than us. …
3. They poop a third of their body weight in one go. …
4. Sloths are blind in bright daylight. …
5. They are faster in water than on land. …
6. It takes sloths 30 days to digest a leaf….
7. They can starve to death on a full stomach…
8. Sloths can fall 100 feet without being injured….
9. No-one knows how long they live for….
10. They prefer to eat the leaves of the cecropia tree aka Trumpet tree/Guarumo which is a canopy tree.

We have found that spotting sloths in the trees is really quite challenging, darn hard, as they don’t move or make any noise. 

One evening we were lucky enough to meet a sloth who was crossing the lane. Very very slowly he/she was pulling himself across to the other side. We stayed and watched, plus made sure he/she was safe.

We have also spotted Red Frogs along the damp banks of the lanes as we stroll along. They too are quite fascinating, but much easier to see. Fun facts about the Red frog: 

It is not as poisonous as some of its cousins and is not a threat to humans. 

It subsists on a diet of ants that dine on poisonous plants, providing the red frog its protective skin toxin. 

Males attract females with a loud quick chirp.  

And then there is also the vast area that surrounds Bocas.

Hundreds if not thousands of cays, isles, mangrove lagoons and bays. We have only ventured out in the dinghy once. We found it incredibly beautiful slowly putting around the waterways nearby.

We are both amazed by the area we have moved to. Everyday we have been seen such beauty.

It exceeds our expectations. And we are so very blessed to be in Bocas Del Torro.

To do the useful thing, to say the courageous thing, to contemplate the beautiful thing: that’s enough for one man’s life……TS Eliot

You cannot help but learn more as you take the world into your hands. Take it up reverently, for it is an old piece of clay, with millions of thumbprints on it…… John Updike

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM click  —>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/cJcerRXVDJRJjUSx5

George Town, Bahamas

George Town is the hub for many cruising boats in the Bahamas. We arrived late in the cruising season and so not many boats still remained in Georgetown. At the height of the season there can be up to 700 boats, …… I’d guess maybe 50 were there with a few like us arriving and then others leaving most days. Our plan was to get the laundry done, pick up some much needed diesel, gas, fresh produce and move on. 

Anchoring under the monument in the bay known as Monument beach. The weather was closing in, gone were the clear sunny skies. There was 2 areas of tropical disturbance, both of which were sending cloud over our way. 

Most days we made a very rough 1.2 mile crossing in the dinghy to Georgetown from our anchorage. There you enter Lake Victoria via the dinghy cut and tie up at the dinghy dock. We would usually walk around Lake Victoria just for the exercise, looking at what ever there was to see.

Next, would be a stop at the grocery for a few supplies, fill some jugs with diesel, load up and return to Aeeshah. (For first few days there wasn’t any diesel to buy as believe it or not, there was none on the island.)

Everything arrives by small freighters of which arrive daily, unload and dispense to the few stores and fuel stations. While being a hub for cruisers Georgetown is still very small compared to most towns outside the Bahamas. 

The first real bit of excitement was when we heard from friends, Hattie and Phil that they were a few days behind us and we’re going to make an effort to catch up. They had set out from Florida, were about a 100 miles from us on their new catamaran Drishti. Sure enough 2 days later they arrived and anchored up nearby. 

We had a lovely evening catching up with each other. The next day we went firstly, to hike up to the monument. Tying off a small dinghy dock on the beach we set off towards a pathway through the trees. Well, that was a very short lived hike, the mosquitoes bombed us out.

They were dreadful, they literally chased us off the beach as we zoomed away in dinghies. (And that was with repellant on) The alternative plan was to go Georgetown together. Both for supplies and a walk about plus for them to check out, they are headed to Grenada. Georgetown was mainly all closed, it was a Labour Day Holiday. 

The following day Hattie and Phil set sail for Grenada and the day after, June 5th, we set off for an over night to

Crooked Island.

The passage to Crooked Island was a mixed bag. We started off with a good wind direction and speed, evening came and the wind died down to 5 – 10kts.

Next I could see encroaching lightening around us with the rumble of thunder. By the time we reefed the jib, blam! The wind hit us at over 30kts. The thunder increased, lightening flashed all around. We watched it morphing on the radar, however, it was mainly situated behind us and within an hour the weather was all behind us. Until, finally, we were back to virtually no wind, typically not at all what the forecast had predicted. We later saw that what had hit us was the tail end of Tropical Storm Alex. We both wondered how Hattie and Phil were out there on Brishti.

Arriving at Crooked Island in the early morning the Bird Rock lighthouse stood out in the distance.

The main island looked intriguing, very few buildings, long stretches of beach and crystal clear waters. We both looked forward to exploring, once John got some sleep. 

The book told us: “Crooked Island and Acklins are enclosed in a shallow lagoon known as the Bight of Acklins. They were permanently settled by the Loyalists in the late 1780’s who set up over 40 cotton plantations.” Some of these cotton plants still grow wild along the roadside.

The overcast skies continued to linger and there was a swell starting to roll into the bay where we were anchored. When John arose we decided to go for a short exploration of the area. Our first stop was the settlement, Pitt’s Town which was a mile or so south of us. We pounded down the bay on the dinghy and to where we thought there was a dinghy dock.

Well it was the most unusual entrance cut in the rock that we entered, along with the surge, surfing the dinghy through around a bend and into a little “anchorage” well more like a place to leave a boat.

We didn’t see a soul, there were a few cars, and a dog resting under one…. Down the lane we strolled, nobody about. Passing a few homes and what used to be a gas station until we came to an area where it looked like a dock was being built. Crooked Island has among its ruins the building said to be the first Post Office in The Bahamas which is located at Pitt’s Town.

I believe we did find it. After a short stroll we headed back to the dinghy. Back out the small boat canal into the bay we headed to the lighthouse which was a few miles away. 

Meanwhile we had seen big sports fishing boats out about a mike in the deep water and we had watched a trawler type of vessel called Sea Hunter towing a center console, which in turn was towing 2 smaller boats into the bay. It was quite a strange set up…..the men were then diving under the trawler doing goodness knows what, all very odd. Then another boat zoomed up stopping near the trawler and one of the men on the speed boat took photos of the trawler and its accompanying boats, really unusual behavior. 

Out at the Bird Rock Lighthouse, unfortunately it was not possible with the wind direction to land the dinghy. Plus the skies were still hazy from Sahara dust, I imagine in good weather this lighthouse is quite a wonder to behold. Construction of the lighthouse started in 1866, and it became operational in 1876.

 We enjoyed viewing it from the dinghy and hope to be back one day to climb it.

On the way back to the boat we could see what appeared to be a marina where there wasn’t supposed to be one, must newly built. We could see the fishing towers of sports fishing boats. Making a short detour, off we headed to check out what we could see.

Entering another man-made canal we found, sure enough a brand new marina with 9 huge sports fishing boats! Within a few minutes a fellow in a little van appeared at what looked to be a fuel dock. John asked him if he had diesel for sale, which he did. 

Back at Aeeshah the seas were now rolling in, the swell was getting a bit much, Aeeshah was facing the seas, but if we turned it would be a very unpleasant sideways roll. Time to leave…. We had a quick a lunch, John hurried off to get the diesel and gas. As soon as he was back out we headed aiming for an anchorage further south that was supposed to be sheltered. 

We had been out about an hour, maybe 5 miles away, when I spotted what looked to me to be a drifting dinghy. As we were motoring John swung the wheel and we headed over. It was quite a surprise to find a bale, a white plastic covered bale with a red target sign on both sides and blue line around it. Just by chance we were towing the dinghy; (we never tow the dinghy, but this day there had been too much of a roll to pull it up). John insisted he had to hook the bale and haul it into the dinghy cause, as he said he can’t not a least have a look, can he? Of course he then has to cut the edge to see what it might contain…. Sure enough dope/weed! He estimated the bale weighed about 80lbs, maybe more, the contents were exceedingly compacted so that the weed was a solid mass.

It appeared that the bundle was made up of many blocks. Anyway, I was a nervous wreck, bad juju, bad Kama messing with someones dope …. I was worried about the odd trawler we had watched with all its attending smaller power boats. I turned off the AIS, we left everything in the sea, and haul assed towards our anchorage. 

The bay we entered was off the very tip of Crooked Island, behind Long cay. The entire shoreline was void of any buildings or trace of mankind, it was wild, beaches and a rough bolder strewn coastline with a few caves. Perfect for a few days exploring. 

Acklins Island

By the morning we had a wind blowing right into the anchorage and a current running out so, it was rolly, not comfortable. We headed to yet another anchorage, this one on Acklins, called, Jamacia Bay.

Acklins, like Crooked Island, once had cotton plantations, now there is just shrub, its back to how it was before man arrived. 

Again we were in a massive bay lined by beaches backed by wild expanses with no humans around.

We spent 2 nights there, spending the days exploring the shoreline by dinghy or by foot and snorkeling the reef. Another place we would love to return to one day. 

On June 9th off we sailed to Great Inagua, another overnight passage, this one was quite mellow.

We passed Castle Island, which has an old lighthouse which would be fun to explore and then we were away to Great Inagua.

Great Inagua

 We anchored just north of the little settlement of Matthew Town.

This island is 40 miles long by 28 wide, has a population of 1,000 and is famous for its, salt industry. (Which according to local history was started by Bermudians) The Morton salt company now has its production here, all of its salt comes from Great Inagua.  There’s also a flock of over 50,000 flamingoes that live in the salt ponds of the large national park area. We hoped to be able to see both the salt and flamingoes.

On going ashore we found the only landing area to be in the little enclosed harbour. It was more of a ship’s dock even though the locals referred to it as a marina. After asking some fellows at the dock where customs an immigration were located we set off down a hot, shrub lined lane. We had only gone about a 100 yards when a jeep stopped and the driver asked if he could give us a lift. He said he could tell we were tourists heading to check out as nobody but tourists walked. Checking out was completed in 5 minutes and we were off walking back….this time no vehicles passed. 

Finding a grocery store was our next challenge. The buildings were few and well spread out with several ruins between them. John had it in his mind to have lunch somewhere.

Well, we walked in the midday heat around to where there was supposed to be a restaurant only to find it was shut down. Back at the little grocery we bought what we could find in way of our needs, which was very little and then headed back to the port.

In the port was an unusual looking sailboat. It looked to be homemade out of tree trunks and branches, with all sorts of bits and pieces for sails etc. We asked a fellow on the dock about it and sure enough it was a Haitian trader. He crosses over to trade fruit and vegetables for supplies.

The weather was much clearer and the sea and skies wonderful blues and green the following morning. There had been a few other cruisers at anchor the previous day but they had all left for Jamacia. They had mentioned taking their dinghies along the shore to the lighthouse restaurant.

We planned to do chores then head along the shoreline to this restaurant for a nice lunch. I did have my suspicions about where we would land the dinghy as it was windy and rough, but off we set. Yes, it was rough, the shoreline very rocky with waves rolling ashore, plus it was quite a ways away.

We could see the lighthouse restaurant and we passed right under the lighthouse but could not see anywhere to land a dinghy. There was a cut through the shore which John just had to try but it was just a sluice for the salt ponds.

Back to the settlement we rode. At the Harbour we found the supply boat was in and being unloaded. Well, everybody seemed to be there or coming and/or going all 1000 of the inhabitants.

Apparently Saturday is supply boat day and a day everyone looks forward to. We were in a quandary, we wanted to go to the Lighthouse restaurant, but had no transport.

There we were discussing what to do when up rolls a man in a jeep. He asks us if he can be of assistance, so we explain and he offers to drive us down there. Off we rode with Dennis. He dropped us off, in we went and were told they were shut as it was supply day!

Ok plan B was to visit the lighthouse. 

This was an intriguing property with several outhouses that were occupied. Asking a fellow cleaning fish on the porch of one building about the lighthouse.

We were told to go ahead climb it, just be mindful of the missing steps. Wow! The view was stunning! Plus with the sun out the colors of the sea was nearly unbelievable. 

Dennis had left his number with us, we gave him a call and he came again to transport us back. Along the way he asked if we wanted to try somewhere else for lunch, which of course we did and so he headed to an outer area of the settlement.

There we went inside a bar. It was wonderfully air conditioned, TVs were soundlessly playing UFC fighting, no one else was there.

We sat at the bar and all enjoyed a fish and chip lunch. Dennis told us about himself and we told him about us. He’s a lobster fisherman when the season is open and a handyman when it’s closed. He also told us of a big drug bust that had just happened at Crooked Island the previous day.

How it involved 2 cops and suspected cartel. (we looked at each other, knowing that what we stumbled on was part of that). What a lovely guy, Dennis was.

Back at the supply dock everyone was still hussleing. We said our goodbyes and headed back to Aeeshah. 

Passage to Port Antonio Jamacia.

We had 2 overnights ahead of us, approximately 250 miles to reach Jamacia. The start of the passage, the first few hours were the roughest we had with over 2 meter seas and winds of up to 25 knots. We took several large waves over the side as they broke on us and I just hunkered down in the cockpit doing my puzzles and reading. The wind dropped and with it the sea laid down somewhat, from then on it was a very calm, easy passage to Jamacia.

There was huge swaths of Sargasso Sea weed, fields and fields of it. Plus we had a unique visitor, a beautifully colored hawk! We arrived offshore about 05:00 on June 14th, we could both smell the perfumed scent of flowers on the early morning breeze. Our port of entry was Port Antonio on the north eastern side of the island. This port has large clearly marked entrance to East  harbour.

Port Antonio

One must do all the formalities of entrance at the Errol Flynn marina. We had chosen to anchor in the marina’s anchorage, but we were told to take Aeeshah along side. So along side we went where we were visited by all the authorities. 1st we had the 3 health and veterinarian ladies, (2 were trainees). I filled out paperwork and answered questions while we all sat in the cockpit, along with Chico in his cat box. The ladies were lovely, quite curious about our lifestyle and Chico.

John took them on their inspection through Aeeshah showing them all they needed to see from the meat in the freezer to the valves in the head. Next we had customs and immigration, a man and a lady. Again, we sat in the cockpit, me filling out forms, chatting answering questions, again very nice folks. She was most interested in Chico as her Auntie has 8 cats. They too did an inspection through Aeeshah. All paperwork completed, we were given ours and our instructions for while we were in the country.

For the next several days we enjoyed Port Antonio, plus did our laundry etc

John and I were very impressed with the marina, the town, the scenery and the people. We spent time each day roaming about the streets, looking at all the sites. Obviously the town it typically Caribbean, rich in colour and very lively.

During our 1st outing we were approached by a number of folks, but one fellow stuck by John. He was called Jeff and insisted he show us the market and where to buy this and that. He practically begged John to meet him for a drink of rum at Roots 21 at 5:00pm. And said he would have a big bag of mangoes for us. (He didn’t think we had been given a fair deal for mangoes in the market).

Anyway, off John goes at 5:00pm, meets Jeff who has a load of mangoes and they walk to the bar.

However this bar ends up being way down the end of the bay. John has his few rums, gets us a take out dinner plus buys Jeff dinner and then returns in a taxi. Well, from then on every day Jeff would be outside the marina 1st thing in the morning to attach himself to us. Where ever we went Jeff went, even in the grocery store. We would try to sneak out at different times, but, oops, there’s Jeff, ….. He was harmless, just wants $1,500US sent to him from his buddy John. I have now told John, no more friends with street folks!!

Another fellow, Bobby, a rasta fisherman who was probably in his 50s but looked like being in his 90s met up with us at the marina gates. Says he can get us any fish, tuna, dolphin (Mai Mai), lobster, crab etc any type. So I, just asked about the crabs, like what type and how would you cook them? Bobby says, “just boil me up mam, just boil en up” Now I never asked for any, but the next morning while I’m doing laundry John is hailed by Bobby shouting to him from outside the marina gates. Believe it or not Bobby has a huge bag of live crabs. John paid $30 for them Bobby was well happy.

John then spent all morning boiling up these crabs, and then de-shelling them. Sure enough, just like I thought crabs only have meat in their legs, so he could have just boiled the legs, but as they were live….

Each day we would visit the Coronation bakery and/or the Tastee Patty Express to buy Jamaican pattys for lunch and spice cakes for breakfast. The beef pattys are amazing! Then each evening John visited the Portland Jerk Center where he ordered dinner. For him it was either the jerk chicken or the goat curry with peas n rice and for me, the sweet and spicy chicken…..the food was excellent. 

The characters we saw around the town were extraordinary too, basically you have to see them to believe they exist. I would have loved to take some photos, but felt it would be kind of rude. Maybe once I get more familiar with Jamaican culture. 

Unfortunately the weather was quite overcast and we had periods of showers so the countryside was more hidden behind cloud and rain than not. We did some exploring in the dinghy and did get some glimpses of the mountains. Jamaica looks to be a wonderful country to explore. 

Ocho Rios

 Off to Ocho Rios we headed on the 18th, June. The whole day was a wonderful downwind sail. The winds did gust as high as 26 knots, but with downwind it was smooth sailing. Entering the harbour was easy, but once inside it was chaotic and crowded.

The bay has a long beach with hotels behind. There were at least 3 power boats that were towing floats with up to 4 persons on each, all were racing wherever. A large barge type ship was anchored in the middle, several tourist cats were anchored off the beach while a few other were cruising with tourists aboard, while music was blaring from different establishment on shore and cats cruising the harbour.

Thank goodness this was just going to be an overnight stop. There were even weddings taking place on the beach. Well most boat operators packed up by 6:00pm except the cats which cruised around and around the harbor for several hours blaring their music. On the plus side the music wasn’t nasty, but enjoyable.

Next day it was goodbye Ocha Rias and off to Montego Bay, Mobay as it is affectionally called. The passage there was horrible, we had huge seas and strong winds admittedly from behind but still a nasty ride. The highest gust reaching just over 30 knots. I was very happy to finally reach Mobay. We anchored outside the main harbour just off the city at the other end from the airport runway. In the morning we had to go into the Yacht Club to register with customs and immigration officials.

Again they were wonderful, the nicest officials ever. Heather at the Yacht club called us a taxi and off we went to stock up, (as we expected to leave the following day).

The store we were taken to stock up was a massive shopping center, Mega Mart. Of course we were able to buy ample supplies. Our driver also took us to get pattys and more goat curry for John.

 

As said the plan was to leave the following day, but John didn’t like the look of the weather we would be facing further south, so we decided to stay a few more days. 

The Yacht Club is a very comfortable facility. We were able to use their dinghy dock and all other amenities for just a small sum per day. We dinghied around the Mobay harbour and walked around the area near the marina.

On our last day we had a few hour tour of Montego Bay city. Willy was our driver, a very nice, knowledgeable fellow. 

We drove through the produce market, which was huge with an outdoor area and indoor area too. All types of fresh produce for sale.

Next, to the craft market for a look at a few vendors’ mechandise. There were plenty of colourful items for sale. 

Along Barnet Street, through all the traffic winding down one way streets to the cobblestoned Sam Sharp Square. Sam Sharp was a freedom fighter, a slave who rebelled for his freedom. He was jailed in what is called the cage and finally hung in the center of the square in the gallows. He is a National hero in Jamacia.

Off and along the Hip Hop stretch to the end of Dead End Beach, stopping on the way to look out across the bay from a popular restaurant and bar, which was also a facility that sells Herb aka marijuana.

Up a hillside to look across the bay from another facility. It was a wonderful view of the whole of Montego Bay Area.

We stopped for a tour of the St. James Parish church. This church is an eighteenth century church in Montego Bay. It was started in 1774 at a time when the town was increasing in importance as a centre for trade and the number of merchants was growing. I has been here that the visiting Queen of England has worshiped during her visits to Jamacia. All of the mahogany furnishings, plus the organ and the many marble carvings are the originals. 

Lastly a drive through a few neighborhoods and stopping for bananas and mangos.

Finally taking us to buy more curry goat for John’s dinner. I chose barbecued chicken, this time with pumpkin rice which was delicious. 

The next day was the beginning of our travels. 

 

Negril

Off to Negril,  June 23rd 686 miles to go. Negril is on the western end of Jamacia. It is a large, beautiful bay. We anchored here to prep Aeeshah for the upcoming passage.

The following morning, 24th June we left Jamacia  and headed to Panama. At the start of this journey we had left Florida in May, on Friday 13th. That was a total of 1018 miles done between Florida and Negril, Jamacia in the previous 6 weeks. We just had 584 to go…..5 to 6 days?

 

 

 

 

Photo album link:—   https://photos.app.goo.gl/PAAnGvtxSU1Eyt6T6

Five weeks after arriving we checked out of Marathon Florida. It had been a much needed stop to get many replacement items for Aeeshah. 

Off to the Bahamas, on on

After a final stocking up at Publix we let go of the mooring buoy and motored out of Boot Key mooring field heading due east-northeast towards Bimini, Bahamas.

The crossing was a dead calm, afternoon and night crossing. It was amazingly calm out there. 

Bimini

Arriving at Bimini we first checked out anchoring on the outside, but soon gave up that idea. It was the weekend and it was quite busy with large power boats racing around, mega yachts swinging on moorings, jet skis and super large fishing boats coming and going. Up the channel we went, towards the basin at the end. Well the channel was a real experience, the gun-boats, (bullet shaped power boats, usually painted a metallic gray or black), with their 4 or 5  450hp engines were not observing any slow down signs, or no wake signs, they were charging up and down the channel.

The fancy fishing boats too were plough along pushing water, causing large wakes, the channel was a chaos of boats. We just carried on down the channel and found at the end an area to anchor amongst 3 other sailboats. We had what looked like small townhouses with dock space and a marina on one side of us and old tugs in a dredging yard on the other side. Good enough for us to anchor for the night.

After a cup of tea off we went to check in. We knew we had to find Big Game Marina, Alice Town for our check in. We dinghyed along the shore, found what looked like the town docks, pulled the dinghy up a rocky beach and proceeded to walk along the road.

Sure enough we found Big Game and the customs check in. Being as we were both quite tired and dealing with brain fog due to lack of sleep, checking in on their computer was quite challenging. In all fairness it probably is quite easy for the average person and the officials were very patient and helpful. Next was immigration, (we were supposed to visit 1st, but we got it backwards), anyway again the folks there were very helpful and friendly.

Off to find a SIM card, we found the Digicel place shut. So, we asked a sweet old lady in a store. She sold us 2 SIM cards, but didn’t have any data or phone on them. So John went to the gas station, got a few dollars put on the cards and we were set. Back at the boat we set them up and we’re back online. 

The night was a very peaceful one. The morning started off slowly, until we spotted a huge barge being dragged by a tug into where we were anchored.

In less than a few minutes I had the anchor up, John had the engine going, and out we went, back down the channel. 

Straight out we headed. Neither of us were properly dressed, but out we went heading to our next anchorage at Gun Cay.

Gun Cay

We anchored in the anchorage on the inside of the cay in gorgeous turquoise waters. It was absolutely stunning!

We enjoyed a quiet afternoon and then a lovely swim. John made water, filling the tanks right up. Then while swimming he cleaned a good part of our filthy bottom. (Being in Marathon our bottom was quite dirty with growth); we shared the water with a massive, friendly, barracuda and a huge remora that just ignored us. 

In the morning we went exploring Gun Cay first by dinghy along the shoreline and then on foot. There was much evidence of previous hurricane/storm damage.

Parts of the shoreline where there was supposed to be a Honeymoon beach was now baron and rocky with large piles of debris pushed well into the brush-line. The rugged shoreline was obviously very weathered, but somehow attractive.

We walked the spine of the island until the brush grew too thick to comfortably continue then back to the dinghy to head to the lighthouse. Trying to beach the dinghy was impossible as the shore was just rock.

So we dropped the anchor and tied off the shore before making our way towards the lighthouse. I’m not sure of the history of this lighthouse, but it certainly was old and not really maintained.

Climbing up the stairs was dicey, everything appeared to be rusted and rotted out, but up we went for the view. 

Back at the boat it was time to head off across the Bahamas Banks.

Crossing the Bahamas Banks

We had decided to take 2 days to cross and spend the night anchored in the middle of the banks. Sailing across is surreal, the waters glassy clear turquoise at just 12 – 15 feet it can feel as if one is just hovering above the sandy bottom. The clouds, sky, and sea, are all shades of turquoise blue for as far as one can see.

We did see a few other boats crossing, the motor boats we could hear miles before we saw then. That night we left the magenta line where most travel and anchored off half a mile in slightly shallower 10ft water.

Out in the middle of nowhere with turquoise waters surrounding us. It was a very calm night, there was a slight slop and a good breeze which made for a restful sleep. As soon as we awoke at dawn we were off, heading the rest of the way across the Bahamas Banks.

Chub Cay in the Berries 

was where we had decided to head to for our next anchorage. This cay has a large private marina which is described as being exclusive. Apparently one can go ashore at a fee of $100. As we approached the shores of Chub Cay there were once again quite a few large fishing boats, probably returning from a days charter. Turning into the channel to the marina, off to the side was a recommended anchorage. However there were a few Catamarans sitting right in the middle, plus the channel was somewhat busy with large fishing boats, smaller motor boats and a barge exiting…..we decided this was not the place for us. 

Frazer Hog Cay

We turned and headed down the shoreline towards another anchorage at Frazer Hog Bay.

There we found a lovely, quiet scenic anchorage where we anchored up for the night. The night was blissfully quiet with a lovely breeze and still, still waters.

In the morning we decided to head to Nassau.

Nassau

The crossing to Nassau was over dead calm waters that were wonderfully calm reflecting the large white cumulus clouds in the distance…..not at all suitable for sailing it was a motoring day.

The entrance to Nassau for us was the western entrance at Hog Bank, past the lighthouse and towards the hotels and cruise ships. On this day there was just 1 cruise ship in port.

Towards the bridges we headed passing the busy fishing, coastal supply ships and the other commercial docks. On our other side was the huge Atlantis complex sort of an oxymoron of a contrast.

We anchored up in one of the anchorages prepared to tolerate the traffic of tourist boats, go fast boats, fishing and supply boats so that John could go ashore for fuel…..to replace what we had used.

The night was actually very calm and quiet. So with our new fuel supply, which we hoped not to have to use we set off for one of the Exhuma Islands.

 Exhumas – Norman’s cay

Our first stop was at Norman cay. We had been there 11 years before. The cay was where the drug cartel had in days gone by been centered, their crashed airplane can still be seen in the waters. 

The Norman cay we found has now a marina for mega yachts, big mega yachts.

The pond that had been at the eastern end has been dredged, and has a channel leading in for these huge boats and a smaller channel leading out for the currents and tide.

Believe it or not but there are literally hundreds of mega yachts, we have been so surprised by the number. (a local lady told us they came during covid and never left)

We anchored off the beach on the outside of the marina. The area is very beautiful, but the weather was overcast and so the sea wasn’t its brightest turquoise.

We spent a day exploring the area around Norman cay. The offshore little cays were gorgeous.

We enjoyed walking on many and wading in the shallows. However private signs were posted all over. Again, it had never been like that is the past.

Waderwick wells

The wind was back to its regular pattern of ESE at 15 – 20kts and we decided to head to Waderick Wells where we could await lighter winds as the direction was not favorable. So we had a slow motor day with much of is being in pounding seas. However we did arrive at Waderwick wells where we were assigned mooring ball number 16, a wonderful spot at the end of the field. 

Waderwick Wells is part of the Exumas National Park. It is an area of extreme beauty. A jewel! The colors of the water, mixes of turquoise and blues, with white sandy beaches and rugged shoreline make it very popular too. 

We spent 3 nights there totally enjoying our days. Our sail track had been having issues and John was concerned about future possible problems.

So we took advantage of being in a relatively sheltered mooring field and took it down and replaced it with the new one we had purchased in the US. It proved to be an easier job than we thought.

On our 1st afternoon we set off to do the hike to Boo Boo Hill.

We took the track called the “Causeway” that runs across the rocks at the edge of the mangroves and ends a the causeway bridge.

Sounds quite simple but it’s actually quite tricky and requires attention to to your footwork. The scenery was wonderful, the Mocking birds were singing, and it was a lovely day.

Once at the bridge, we traversed the rocks to the other side and climbed the rocky trail to the top.

The view was stunning. We could see far and wide across the island.

Going downhill one really needed to be mindful of where you stepped. There were many, many sink holes and rocks to climb around, across or over.

And then we were again up a steep slope and onto the Hutia Highway, turning to the left for Boo Boo Hill in the distance. The view once we reached the top was absolutely, wonderful, just stunning!

The outside of the island the seas were up due to the winds and they were pounding ashore.

We admired the view and headed off along the cliff tops towards Boo Boo Hill.

Before Boo Boo Hill is a monument that faces out to sea dedicated to a couple that were well known locally.

There is also a large bench which is a comfortable place to sit and look out to sea. The view amazing!

At Boo Boo Hill you find a mass of memorials in the form of boat signs, homemade tokens, reformed objects all a remembrance of those that passed through….ours is there somewhere in the pile from 10 years ago.

The view was stunning looking out over the whole cay. Down the hillside we trekked looking over the cliffs at the blowholes and then down the other side towards the mangrove flats.

This way takes one through the shallow waters of Banshee Creek

and back to the beach where the dinghy awaited us.

Our next adventure the following day took us

along the same trail initially and then we took the right branch towards the other end of the cay.

It was another hot, dry, day with wonderful blue skies with puffy white clouds.

Again the views from the cliff tops were spectacular.

The beaches wild, the pathways were marked with cairns and a paint mark but were not well trodden. We made it as far as the old wall and then headed back.

This time taking what was called the Shady Tree Trail

through the trees and palms in the lowland. Finally back along the Causeway to our dinghy at the beach. 

Waderwick Wells is a gem, a wonderful area to visit.

Staniel Cay

Was our next stopping point. We were only able to move in small jumps as the winds were blowing in the constant direction of where we wanted to go, as usual. As per usual it was a motor sail to Staniel cay.

 At Staniel cay we opted for a nearby anchorage, at Big Majors Spot which is where the swimming pigs are to be found. 

Once again there were dozens of mega yachts, go fast boats and large powerboats anchored and moving about. Such a change from 10 years ago. 

We headed into Staniel cay to get a few supplies and have a walk about. Once there we tied off the dinghy area and enjoyed a walk about.

When away from the marina area one finds a quiet narrow, windy lane, with very few vehicles.

We wandered along the narrow lanes visited a shop, The Pink Grocery store, bought a few bits and the walked back to the marina where the tourists were petting huge nurse sharks.

Next day we started off by doing a repair to the mainsail. A baton fitting had been shaken loose from when we had the old sail track. We were again pleased with our repair and headed ashore to the Yacht Club for lunch. 

Lunch was excellent, fish with Asian slaw, plus not expensive. We wandered for a walk about and picked up a few other supplies from the little grocery before we headed back. 

Back at the boat we got into our bathing suits and headed first into the pig beach to see the swimming pigs. There was just one other boat feeding the pigs, we stayed back, watched and took photos. These pigs are adorable, obviously well fed and cared for as they are the “stars” of the area.

The locals have someone watching over them due to problems in the past. From there we  dinghied about checking out the lovely beaches, turquoise waters, rugged shoreline and rushing water through the cuts.

We ended with a refreshing swim at one of the little bays. (Neither of us wanted to swim off the boat as there was a huge shark hanging about. It was a nurse shark but still…..)

Black Point 

was our next destination. As said, little hops was all we could do, until we had favorable winds, but time we have. Black Point is another small settlement, although it is referred to as the second largest.

The bay is very large and shallows out to the beach. Ashore we found the settlement delightful. There was a lane along the shore that we followed to and past the beach

and then we followed a trail over the headland to look out over the sound – Beautiful waters as usual.

We strolled the same lane through the settlement, past the school, the church, the police station

and to a restaurant, Emerald Sunset View where we had another great fish lunch with gulls looking on. 

The locals have a basket weaving center and store, unfortunately it was closed. But we could see many local women and men weaving outside their homes.

I spoke to one lady, who told me she learned from her parents and was using a marsh palm. She was incredibly quick with her hands, as fast and nimble as knitting needles.

Little Farmer’s cay

Still awaiting favorable winds we headed off to an anchorage near Little Farmer’s cay. Arriving by noon meant we had time in the afternoon to explore the area.

The cruising guide/navionics mentioned a cave to explore. We set out in the dinghy to check it out and the cut that passes out to the Exhuma Sound. We need to head through a cut in order to be on the outside of the Exumas to enter Georgetown.

The cut looked very straight forward, basically following the channel made by the current around and about and then out. The seas through the cut were just crystal clear, incredibly beautiful, with a very strong current running.

Off we went to find the trail to the cave.

Anchoring off one of the beaches we waded ashore and basically followed the beach and the old foot prints to where there was a cairn marking a pathway inland.

The trail was the usual mix of rocks to climb, sandy path, and then a mangrove swampy area.

John as normal disappeared ahead while I stopped every so often to take pictures. I arrived at a lovely horseshoe shaped beach on the other of the island…..but no John?

So I figured he had ended up at the cave…. After wandering the beach a bit I could see him way up a hillside in the shrubbery. I whistled to him, We waved and he found his way to the beach. Sure enough he had found the cave.

We roamed the beach and rocks for a bit and then headed to the cave. The cave was interesting, the regular limestone cave, of which there must be dozens hidden away.

Back to the beach and dinghy we slogged, it was so incredibly hot, no breeze, everything dry and toasty hot, like traipsing across a semi dessert.

I could definitely do with a swim to cool off.

We needed to access the Exhuma Sound in order to enter Georgetown. In order to do this one must power the boat through a cut to the sound. This can be quite intimidating as the tide, ocean flow/current’s huge volume of sea water through the cuts is pretty awesome.

We headed off to Farmer’s Cut early in the morning anticipating a slack tide. However upon arriving we could see the tide was already flowing inwards.

Wow, what an exit, Aeeshah powered against the massive current for over half and hour. We took a wave over the bow, it washed right down the whole boat and unfortunately a hatch wasn’t properly secured so we had water below too. Out of the current we navigated towards Georgetown on Great Exhuma.   

 

PHOTO LINK —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6GNBCazKniKArnP6

Isla Mujares to Marathon Florida

Both John and I were keen to leave Isla Mujares. We had enjoyed our time there, and touched base with other friends who were also there. It was time to head out. A weather window was opening, giving us 3 – 4 days of favorable winds followed by yet another norther/front. Neither one of us wanted to go through another front/norther in Isla Mujares anchorage.

During the previous front we had dragged at night, been awoken by Jim our neighbour, had to reanchor. Then John had to stay in the cockpit all night while the wind raged looking out for other dragging boats while worrying about ours. Followed by one and a half days of staying aboard due to bad winds, dragging again and reanchoring. (Dragging with 200ft of chain out in 15 ft of water tells how bad the holding was) We were well ready to leave. 

The passage:

Heading out were a number of other folks that we knew. 2 boats headed to Cuba, 1 boat to Bimini, Bahamas, another headed to Tampa Florida and us to Marathon. 

The first day out was a Sunday it was the regular getting used to the sailing routine again. The Sunday night was very challenging. We had headed towards the Cuban coast as it was supposed to be more sheltered. However this was not the case and the winds were way stronger than predicted, the seas much larger and very testy. It was not a good nights sail. The following day Monday, made up for it by being everything we could have asked for. Followed by a wonderful Monday night in which to cross the Gulf Stream again. The next day Tuesday was again a lovely day sail for half the day and then a bit of a plough up wind to our anchorage in the Marquesas Keys.

After a wonderfully calm night’s sleep we set off for another anchorage 30 odd miles away and again enjoyed a calm evening and restful sleep. 

The following morning we headed to Marathon where Boot Key harbour marina is located. There wasn’t a lot of wind so we were motor sailing. Then an alarm went off! It was one of the smoke detectors from the engine compartment. Umm, John decided we could continue as it seemed not to be too bad….Chico became anxious, meowing, not happy at all. The smoke became worse and we had to stop and drop the anchor. There we were just off 7 Mile Bridge about an hour away from Marathon, stuck.

We tried Sea Tow, but to no avail. John decided to see what he could do. The smoke was coming from a newly blown hole in the exhaust. He got some special epoxy he had, had me undress it and squeeze it into shape while he dressed the hole. Then he put a piece of rubber held in place with a hose clamp over the top as well. We fired up the engine and limped towards the bridge, under and out the other side then down the channel towards Boot Key Harbour.

The marina appointed mooring # O4 as ours. We lucked out in being able to land on it fairly quickly. This is the biggest mooring field in the whole USA, with 400 moorings and a good scattering of anchored boats around the edges. 

Ashore we went and registered, got all our handy info plus goody bag. It was definitely a very different temporary home for us, compared with what we have had for the past many years.

We had to get a taxi up to the airport and get ourselves checked in, which proved to be easy. These days one has to register online well before entering the United States and then finish off at an airport. Surprisingly, no mention was made of covid or vaccinations….

What do we do in Boot Key, Marathon?

The tasks started, the chores, the ordering, the maintenance all the reasons why we were in the middle of the Florida Keys.

Off to a grocery store, for us Publix. After not being in an American grocery for many years it was quite overwhelming, just miles of selection/items, so many choices for so many similar items can prove to be quite tiring. 

John made good friends with Amazon. He ordered numerous boating needs: solar panels, wiring, water maker needs, etc.

A few days of car hire:

On our 3rd day we hired a car from Enterprise and set off to get our soda stream gas canisters. John has our soda stream rigged so we can use massive gas canisters which last many months.

Of course being away from any proper facility to refill we had gone without for quite sometime. Here in the Keys we knew to go to Air-Gas as this was where we originally obtained them 5 years previously. It is located near Key West so after getting the new gas canisters we visited Key West.

We were fortunate to be able to find a parking lot and then headed off for a walk around and lunch in Key West. The walk along the front was very much as it was years before. Still packed with visitors of all types, tarpon being fed from the docks, pelicans lingering nearby.

Large custom built flying bridges above sleek looking fishing boats, the old tourist schooner waiting tourists, the open air seafood restaurants dockside, yes, just as it always was – Key West. After lunch we went to return to the car park and realized we had forgotten where it was located…..never mind after a bit of a turn around a few blocks we found our jeep and we retraced our journey to Marathon.  

Day two with the car we sped to Homestead to visit a mall and a Walmart….. We had a list of items we needed to replace on Aeeshah. This was a confusing excursion for us as 1st locating the shops then finding what we wanted/needed in huge shops required patience and endurance.

Most days have comprised of us riding our bikes, for exercise going to usually to either Home Deport, Publix or West Marine where we get what we need for the days projects or food. It’s a good ride and keeps us somewhat fit, especially when we ride against the wind. 

Friends Alex and Dave arrived on their boat Banyan. We had fun catching up with them and going to a local seafood restaurant for lunch one day.

Key West excursion

Believe it or not but I had managed to get not 1, not 2, not 3 but 4 flat tires on my front wheel. Each right by the value! John decided that it was the cheap Chinese inner tubes we had purchased. When friends said they were heading to Key West on the public transit we jumped at the idea, as the closest place to buy inner tubes was in Key West.

7:30am we were at the bus stop and alighted the bus, nearly 2 hours we arrived downtown Key West.

Our companions: Roy and Madeline off Mistril and Lucy and Rosaire off Ma Blonde were there on different missions so off we all set in differing directions.

The bike store was easy to find as we had been there 5 years previously. With new inner tubes tucked away in our bag we set off to the nearest site to visit. 

The Key West Graveyard

We had visited years before, but it was well worth walking through again. Interesting dedications to those passed, lovely iguannas and lizards, quaint signs and lovely shady lanes.

Duval Street 

Was our next stop. This street would never fails to interest just about anyone. It has character, quaintness, arts, entertainment, culture and oh, so much more. For me the highlights were the art galleries.

I adore the unusual, especially where the textures and colors are extreme. Of course there are also the people to watch with their eccentricities, and then wonderful differing architecture to be found. We managed to walk both sides, I loved it.

Lunch was next

We had arranged to meet up, this ended up being the Waterfront Brewery, where John and I landed after Duval Street as it was shady and the AC was blasting out. Yep, they had AC blasting out onto the walkway. Fish and chips was the popular choice at lunch. The fish was Mai Mai and was very good!

John and I set off to West Marine, while the others went back to exploring Key West. However, no sooner than we reached West marine than we heard from them, they were all headed to the bus stop ….. it was too hot, time to head back. John and I completely agreed, we were quite happy to head back to Marathon. 

When we arrived we had: 

– A stove whose oven door had broken off in rough seas, a new one was ordered and delivered.

– A water pump and pressure switch which was barely functioning, a new one was ordered and installed.

– The old VHF had died months previously, a new handheld VHF arrived.

– A starter motor which barely started the engine, a new one was ordered and has been installed.

– The exhaust with its hole has been dismantled, taken apart and the new exhaust ordered, delivered and is now installed after many weeks by John

– John’s iPhone which was more or less dead and my phone which did not have 5G so wouldn’t work here; both have been replaced.

– My wonderful Mac Pro computer of barely 2 years old stopped working. Apparently the motherboard was shot. It was repaired, but meanwhile I have a reconditioned iMac pro to work with.

– John has ordered and received 3 new solar panels and all the connections. – To replace the 10 year olds that are not efficient any more.

– We had a few stitches needed in the mainsail near the clew, plus the track had corroded. I stitched and we ordered a new track, which is ready to be added.

– My eyes have been tested and my new glasses are here. 

– The water maker maintenance kit has arrived.

– A new chart plotter is installed alongside the old.

– The water heater sprang a leak a new one arrived.

– And a few other incidental items are here and are completed.

All this accomplished in just over a month and now we are looking towards the Bahamas…..