Aeeshah

 

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Back in Bocas 

Our return journey was just how we like it, straight forward, no complication.

Well other than John waking up with an incredibly swollen face. For some unexplained reason he had an allergy attack in his sleep, maybe he dreamt of bees. 

Our plan was to head off as soon as possible, but things did not go as planned. The propane regulator sprung a leak and drained us of propane before John realized what was happening. So we had to order a new regulator – 2 weeks to arrive, plus refill the propane tanks – 10 days to get them back. 

In the meantime we had several delightful walks:

our first walk was along our regular route upon which we has seen very little wildlife. I had just remarked to John that,

“It’s unusual that we haven’t seen much today.” 

When he grabbed my arm and said, “Snake!” 

Sure enough there was a huge black and yellow snake moving quickly along and up the bank towards the tree.

Grabbing my camera I managed to get a few quick shots of its length, but of course in a picture it doesn’t look very impressive. After slithering up the bank it quickly climbed around and up a tree. It positioned itself looking right out of the limbs at us,

while flicking its tongue in and out. Really it was fascinating to watch. A lovely creature, so attractively colored in yellow and black with such glossy scaly skin.

We watched it and it watched us for quite a while, until finally we moved off. 

One walk took us along a trail we had never walked before through the jungle and out to the Polo beach trail.

Again, the jungle was wonderful. Once we emerged I was so sweaty that I suggested we take a path to the beach where we stripped off and went for a swim.

The water was just lovely!

In another memorable walk we came upon a confrontation of monkeys.

There were quite a number in the trees having a full out fight, screaming at each other, jumping from branch to skinny branch, chasing each other. Next they jumped from the tree onto the open lane where we were, glared at us kept screaming, and ran off to the trees on the other side.

The Red Frog beach had changed its face again:

Gone were the huge surfing waves crashing up into the tree line. Where all the rocks and tree limbs had been exposed, there was now lovely white sand.

The beach had expanded and was just gorgeous.

We enjoyed a lovely walk with Yvette and her sweet dog Ungla, all the way to the far end of the beach. There we found the beach was covered in seaweed. Ungla also made friends with one of the local strays, they had a grand time chasing each other up and down and around the beach.

On our last walk:

We took Yvette and Ungla to show them our regular route, plus along the zip line trail to the top and down. Again we saw several troops of monkeys, they seemed quite interested in Ungla. 

Our regulator arrived, my glasses arrived and the propane bottles were finally back ……. It was time to move along.

Out to anchor:

First in the Red Frog anchorage where John cleaned the bottom. Next off to Saigon Bay where we had easy access to a dock at a grocery store so as to stock up with our essentials.

Also, we could walk to Vet Gloria to get Chico his special diet food for obese cats. Yes, he’s still trying to loose weight. 

The next morning we were able to walk into Bocas town and enjoy a wonderful breakfast at JJs.

I adore their breakfast sandwich. It’s also a pleasant walk along the lanes between all the colourful homes and businesses. 

The weather was looking great to head off shore towards Shelter Bay, where we planned to have Aeeshah hauled. We think tomorrow we will be underway……..

“Wherever we want to go, we’ll go. That’s what a ship is, you know. It’s not just a keel and a hull and a deck and sails. That’s what a ship needs. But what a ship is, what it really is, is freedom.”

 

 

 

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Nana and Papa’s Easter camp

Our 3rd week was a Nana and Papa camp for the Grandchildren May, aged 7 and Quest aged 5 both arrived before 8:00am, keen to have fun. I planned to keep them busy as occupied as possible.

Monday started off with some math activity workbooks that kept both John and I quite busy…. Then we headed off to feed Jessie, he is Kate and May’s horse.

Well, Kate’s horse really, she’s had him since she was 15, but May now counts him as hers. At the stable May was quick to get out the fork and wheel barrow while John did the feeding.

Quest and I filled the water barrel. After a couple of mornings May had Quest nearly trained picking up the poop with the rake too.

Fort Hamilton was our next stop: 

This fort is found atop a hill behind the city of Hamilton. From its border wall we had panoramic views of Hamilton Harbour. The kids enjoying the flag pole too??

The fort is a relic from the Victorian age. It was built by the British in 1870 to protect Hamilton, however the fort never saw any action.

There are massive, 18-ton artillery pieces which were never fired in defense of the city. Quest and May had a quick look at the huge guns but we’re far more interested in the tunnels that led to the moat.

The moat has been transformed into a lush garden. The kids followed the moat around and then we explored more of the underground passages and dungeons. 

Blue bird boxes

Upon returning home, after lunch there were the Blue bird boxes, that May and John had made together back in September, to put up.

Out came the ladder and all the necessary tools and up went the blue birds boxes. Climbing that ladder was such fun!

Tuesday, after our morning math activities and seeing to Jessie we headed off to the Botanical gardens:

Botanical Gardens

Botanical Gardens was established in 1898, and consists of 36 acres. Lots of space to exercise two energetic kids. These gardens have been a popular area to walk, play and relax. We started off parking centrally near the show ring and headed towards what used to be the aviary but, finding just empty neglected cages.

Further along we came across a few workers sitting having a break from their work. One of them happened to know some magic tricks which Quest and May were happy to enjoy. 

Off to the climbing trees we went. These are huge rubber trees that children just love to explore and climb.

Nearby was the maze, which John had a look around.

Our final stop was the sensory garden for the blind, with Braille signs fragrant blooms and herbs. Again we found it to be neglected, rather sad as it used to be lovely.

Hog Bay Level Park

In the afternoon we headed out to Hog Bay Level Park for a walk. Hog Bay Park is 32 acres of open space, which is mainly used by local farmers. 

Where does it get its name? Apparently back in the 17th century passing Mariners dropped hogs off in this area as a future food source should they become shipwrecked on Bermudas’ reefs.

Quest and May headed off along the side of fields and along the pathways, uphill and then downhill to the shoreline.

It wasn’t a particularly sunny day but Westside looked as lovely as ever. Back uphill we were all flagging, turning back along the sides of fields,

passing a derelict farm house where we looked for a ghost , but never saw one, and then to the car.

Wednesday was the regular math activities yet again, and seeing to Jessie. Our visit this day was the 

Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo. 

Located in Flatts Village, BAMZ is one of the world’s oldest aquariums, founded in 1926. It features hundreds of fish species, rescued sea turtles, harbour seals and a 145,000-gallon coral reef exhibit with sharks and black grouper. The zoo part has more than 300 birds, reptiles and mammals from islands around the world. Plus the Bermuda Natural History Museum which is found there has interactive exhibits for children and adults too.

This was a rainy day, so we were there with several other groups of children off of school, plus quite a few tourists.

We started in the Aquarium where I tried to ask Quest and May questions about each exhibit, both of them are quite knowledgeable about the fish species, corals etc. Plus we would hunt each tank to see where the creatures were hiding and match them with their names.

The museum Papa took over going around the exhibits, they enjoyed the interactive ones.

Out in the zoo area most of the animals and birds were tucked away out of the cold, rainy weather. The flamingos were huddled together, as flamboyant as ever.

In the afternoon we had to move into Gavin and Katie’s home to housesit and care for Amy. The kids loved the move as they had lots of space outside to play outside, plus May was particularly happy to enjoy riding all the bikes around the driveway.

Whales and a shoreline amble

Thursday after Quest and May arrived John had to head out, I was with them doing our regular math fun activities when ……. we saw whales from Gavin’s dining room glass door.

The kids flew out to the rocks to watch, I grabbed my camera and scurried behind them. Unfortunately all my camera caught was the beautiful blue swell….

When John returned we headed out for a long walk to the peninsular that can be seen across the bay from Gavin and Katie’s place.

It was a wonderful few hours walking the rocky shoreline, examining rock pools, finding shells and crab’s exoskeletons,

peering into rocky crannies, climbing the steep boulders at the end of the peninsular.

After all of our explorations the kids raced back along the rocks for lunch with no complaints of being tired. 

Kite making

The afternoon activity was kite making. Bermuda kites are a very special tradition. John built the frames and then together we taught May and Quest to paper the kites with tissue paper.

This is quite a delicate art, May found it way easier than Quest, who elected to do artwork instead.

We did quite well this first afternoon, managing to paper half of Quest’s kite. 

Exploring the East End

On Friday, we were off to the East end.

Gates Fort, was our 1st stop.

The kids were happy to clamber all over this tiny fort which sits right on the edge of St Georges Town Cut.

This is a channel that was created for ships to enter the St. George’s Harbor. 

Fort St Catherine, was our next stop.

Quest and May were excited to explore this fort with all of its displays, neither of them having been there before. Fort St Catherine was first built from wood in 1612.

This was replaced by a stone fort in 1614. It was one of a number of forts built immediately following the Virginia Company being given official sanction in 1612 for its possession of Bermuda, which it had occupied since the wreck of the Sea Venture in 1609. 

The fort was actually rebuilt five times, the last time at the end of the 19th century, by when Bermuda had become the premier base for the Royal Navy in the Western Hemisphere.

But Quest and May weren’t interested in that info, they enjoyed the displays showing life back in the day and all the large bullets/explosives displayed. 

Outside we walked around the entire perimeter from which there are some lovely views, (if you ignore the ugly hotel that was recently built).

Tobacco Bay was our stop for snack time.

This area is quite scenic with little bays and rock formations.

May and Quest were ravenous so they quickly ate their snacks and then headed off to clamber over the rocks.

The area is reputed as the backdrop for the Gunpowder Plot of 1775, in which Bermuda locals helped American revolutionaries steal a supply of British gunpowder from the Town of St. George. 

St Georges town was our next stop.

We started off walking along the dockside, across the little bridge and over to the stocks.

These are models of the real ones used back in the day of public humiliation for wrong doers. May and Quest enjoyed taking turn being stuck in the stocks. 

St. George’s is known for being the Bermuda’s first settlement. It is full of reminders of the past with its Colonial buildings around the central King’s Square

These include the 18th-century town hall. Nearby, the Tucker House Museum is a typical home from the 1700s, with displays of crystal, silver and period furniture. Other notable landmarks include St. Peter’s Church, founded in 1612.

We just strolled through the square making our way to the Supermarket to buy some much needed water. The kids were happiest to walk through a bubble machines bubbles! Yes, small things entertain them the best.

Off we drove to Southside for lunch,

and a playground. Quest and May devoured their lunches quickly and were soon playing on the equipment. So we figured it was time for a walk to Cooper’s Island Nature reserve. 

Just along the lane from Clearwater is the old deserted US Naval Air Station. The beaches here, believe it or not are both manmade beaches created by the U.S. Navy when Cooper’s Island was used as a U.S. Naval Air Station.

Since 1995, the area has become the Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve, and just inland from the beaches you find walking trails and a pond that are great for birdwatching. However our walk with Quest and May was along the remains of the little roadway above the beaches.

Stopping first at the old tower to look out from the top.  

Down and along the rest of the way to what is left of a breakwater. There the kids had fun examining what was in rock pools.

We went off looking for ice cream cones but found nowhere open, so I bought frozen chocolate fudge bars instead. 

Back at Gavin’s they enjoyed their fudge bars, rode bikes and there was just enough time to finish Quest’s kite as this was his last day with us.

Overall we had a terrific Nana and Papa Easter camp!

On the weekend we were able to go back to Langata to continue with our maintenance projects and then on Sunday afternoon we had few old friends come to Gavin’s fora get together. 

We actually hadn’t seen each other since before covid, so it was great to exchange news and catch up.

Week 4 our last week

On Monday, we just had May, as her school got a second week holiday.

Back to Langata we went where May helped Papa with the painting. And for much of the week each day was a home maintenance day with May helping. Plus we finished May’s kite!

Bluebird boxes had a pair of nesting birds!

Amazingly we saw that one of the Bluebird boxes had a pair of nesting birds residing within! I am sure the other boxes were also being used, but I just never had the time to walk in the woodlands and watch for them.

Good Friday

Every Good Friday, Bermudians of all ages fly kites, usually of traditional Bermudian type (though plastic, store-bought kites can be seen), These kites were originally flown to symbolize Christ’s resurrection, but nowadays it’s just a very important, fun family tradition. 

Our Good Friday was held at Gavin and Katie’s home. We all arrived around noon, and there were so many of us. The only grandchild missing was Rhianna, even Ethan came to fly kites. 

Most of Gavin’s friends are fellows whom we have known since they were children and now they were there with wives and their many children. Plus for me even a few of the wives I had taught when they too were young school girls. 

The kites were mainly flown by the Daddy’s, the Moms were chatting and watching while the many children enjoyed the hot tub and pool. Most of the kites were the traditional Bermuda kites. The two kites made with May and Quest were both flown. 

Bermuda kites are typically hexagonal, though larger ones, may be octagonal, or have even more sides. They are constructed from flat sticks we call kite sticks, arrayed like spokes of a wheel, with a nail at the axis. A string passes around the ends of the sticks, marking out the edges, and concentric strings are arranged inside of this, all contributing to the rigidity of the structure and creating the pattern. Colored tissue paper is glued into the spaces created between strings and sticks.

Using different colors, patterns are created. The kite has a single stick secured at one end to the axis, which rises at a shallow angle from the plane created by the other sticks. This stick, forms the head of the kite, thus the head stick. It extends considerably beyond the perimeter of the hexagon. It actually passes over the midpoint of one side of the hexagon, and a string creates a triangular shape from the corner at one side of the head stick, to its tip, and back to the opposite corner. Strips of paper are folded and glued along this string. A long, cloth strip tail is fitted to the kite via a loop of string at the bottom. This is the tail without which the kite would not be able to fly.

Good Friday is also a time for traditional Bermudian Good Friday special foods. For most of us there’s codfish cakes, hot cross buns, and Portuguese beans. At Gavin and Katie’s most folks had brought some of each dish. The lunch was delicious. And for several days after we enjoyed the same fare.

Wonderful Bermuda Good Friday 

“In the end nothing we do or say in this lifetime will matter as much as the way we have loved one another.”

— Daphne Rose Kingma

 

 

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Before we headed out

As usual we continued to enjoy Red Frog with our walks. The weather had been quite rainy so many of the walks were in the rain, under the trees.

John took up harvesting coconuts, they are so delish!

We saw our version of Tarzan on the beach again. And we ended our time in Bocas with a lovely evening and South African friends aboard their boat for dinner.

The challenge of getting home:

The 1st stage of our journey to Bermuda was the flight from Bocas airstrip to Panama City. We arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. We check in and then as we were check by immigration we were faced with a problem. Basically, we had been misinformed by the harbour authorities that we had 6 months in Panama, apparently that was false information. We only had 3 months, we were 3 months overdue to leave.

And they take this very seriously….we had to go into a tiny room with a female officer who took all sorts of weird info from us. Like, my mother’s name, (she’s been dead for 30 plus years) my height, weight, just such random info. They also needed the same crazy info from John, so that by the time we finished our plane had long gone. On the plus side the authorities were very nice and we were put onto a later flight.

In the city we had a good evening and restful night. We enjoyed breakfast and headed to the airport, everything going very well…..until we sat on the plane on the runway for over half an hour. This put us back by half an hour for our Miami flight. Miami airport was hellish. It was Spring Break weekend, festivals were on and the crowds in the airport insane. We had to get through Immigration, walking up and down those ridiculous long lines, stewing as time was passing. Then we had to get to baggage claim, (yes, even on connecting flights), where our bags were not found. We were told to go through without our bags, but the lines to pass via the safety checks had signs saying a 2 hour wait. We tried every which way to get ahead, we did all we could, but when we got to the gate the plane had left 10 minutes previously. And I found that my glasses were missing, somewhere in security???

But, I managed to find some magnifiers to make do with

To cut a long story short, we got rebooked for the next day and found a airport hotel, but we had no clothes, toiletries etc A very sweet receptionist at the hotel supplied 2 tooth brushes and packets of paste. The hotel was fine for sleeping at, but very basic so the next morning we headed to Miami airport to spend the day before our 6:42pm flight. In the airport we were able to find some basic toiletries, hairbrush, makeup and at last we felt half decent. 

In Bermuda, back home:

We had been assured our luggage would be in Bermuda waiting for us. Well after the flight we found, nope, no luggage, and they weren’t sure where it was located. It’s about then that you realize how much one relies on getting your bags ~ clean clothes for a start would have been nice. It was 11:00pm when we arrived at Langata, everyone was asleep, so we made do with what we could find tucked away. The next day AA still had no luggage news so we went off to Hamilton and purchased some only in Bermuda expensive necessities. Back home we walked in the door and what met our eyes, but our luggage! Apparently it had been to Charlotte, sent to Bermuda and delivered to us. Life was good!

Week 1

Our first week was spent with a few morning walks; walks to the dunes with Winter. She’s Chrissies very sweet dog who lives upstairs. 

Of course seeing family, was a priority, they were all working or in school, but some visiting was managed.

We started some chores, for example Ruben had his power washer going around the walkways and porches, John behind and in front moving whatever needed to move.

I cleaned and tidied cupboards, and all the areas our guests get into. Plus I had to empty our big walk-in cupboard for the carpet cleaners. As doing this entailed emptying a large cedar chest I found the old family bible.

This time I carefully went through it and was amazed to find it had listed births, marriages and deaths going back to the 1800s.

On the 1st Saturday we met up with our son Gavin and his two youngest Lily and Evie at Warwick Long Bay.

We had Quest, Mason and Winter with us, so there were 3 adults, 4 kids and a dog.

We started at Warwick Long Bay, close to where we live and headed along the rocks, bays, trails and dunes towards Horseshoe Bay. It was a really fun outing that the kids led at a quick pace.

They loved to climb as many rocky slopes as possible, run down and back again along all the trails, chase butterflies in the open spaces, hiding from each other and us.

Dash along the beaches, chase the surf and of course get splashed was fun too, Winter running right into the waves.

By about the time we reached the Bay Grapes on the dunes behind Horseshoe Bay they did show signs of slowing down so that the stroll back was at a sedate pace.

I am sure they all slept well that night! 

Week two 

John started the scraping, chipping and patching of our front wall. There was a nasty crack and he was determined to start the painting, but first the preparation had to be done.

I was trying to get on with the general maintenance, but my allergies were giving me hell which made cleaning difficult. However we both had made progress by the week’s end. 

May’s Mermaid party

May’s party was on that Saturday afternoon at Gavin’s house. Off we all went with our fingers crossed that the fine weather would hold for the afternoon.

And what a lovely afternoon it was…. May had several friends attend,

there were most of her cousins, uncle, aunties, grandparents, and others there.

The children had fun on the fun castle, enjoyed water balloons, riding bikes, playing on the swings and slide while the adults watched. It was a colourful, fun mermaid party.

(Following shortly will be Part 2 Nana and Papa Easter holiday camp with many outings and some surprises.)

I believe in one day and someday and this perfect moment called Now. – Jacqueline Woodson

 

PHOTOS —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/a6MRpfcyCqZvQax2A

La Loma Jungle Lodge and cocoa Farm tour:

I heard from a friend that there was an interesting tour available on Isla Bastimentos , not too far from Red Frog. After asking other friends if they were interested in the tour, I arranged for us all to visit.

Now La Loma is accessible only by boat, situated in the center of the Isla Bastimentos rainforest on a 55 acre property. It stretches from the mangrove shores of the Bahia Honda Bay, through tropical forest and groves of fruit trees, to the highest point on Isla Bastimentos.

Seven of us set off in 3 dinghies to La Loma. Arriving at an inconspicuous wooden dock we made our way along a pathway where we met Mr. Kelly our guide. He had his helper with him, his little dog Zoro. Further along the pathway we could see a very handsome rooster, whom Mr Kelly picked up and explained the rooster was his as well and a very good guardian.

We followed Mr Kelly through lush, gardens and orchards of fruit trees, stopping at a wide variety of plants, vines and fruit trees to taste and listen to all the information he told. There was also wide variety of birds and insects flying and flitting about us. 

The following is just a fraction of what we were told: 

The Lang Lang tree was in blossom with beautiful yellow blossoms, their heavenly aroma makes the flowers of these fragrant trees extra special, since they’re reputed to be a key ingredient in Chanel No. 5 perfume. 

Stopping at the seed pods of the Achiote Mr Kelly broke one open. Formed a bowel from a large leaf, put the seeds and some water in, stirred them around and amazingly we saw red dye come from the seeds. 

Annatto seeds, or achiote, give a unique color to local foods and add an exotic and healthy touch to recipes. Its health benefits are due to carotenoid antioxidants, which are good for the eyes and the immune system. Furthermore, the seeds can also be used for cosmetics and as a dye for dyeing fabrics.

Another plant we tasted was Buchu,

Buchu is a plant from South Africa. The leaf is used to make medicine. (A low growing herb)

Then there was Katuk. What is Katuk? 

Katuk (Sauropus androgynus) also commonly known as the star gooseberry or sweet leaf in English is a shrub. It is indigenous to Southeast Asia that is now cultivated in many other countries. It thrives in tropical climates in lowland rainforests where it grows between 4-6 feet. We sampled the leaves and ate the Berries which taste just like peas. Again a wonderfully fresh tasting plant.

There was a tree with a fruit hanging from it, that to me looked very similar to Sugar Apples aka Custard Apples, but they weren’t, they were:

BIRIBA

Also known as Rollinia deliciosa or Rollinia Soft, a yellow-skinned fruit when ripe, similar in appearance to Sugar Apples, but with more prominent spikes. 

Further along the trail Kevin picked a ripe biriba and we were able to enjoy a slice of this fruit, it was wonderful! The flesh is white to translucent, juicy, with an excellent sweet flavor. 

From a low growing bush like vine Mr Kelly picked an orange – green fruit. This was the: 

 Orinoco-apple, aka Cocona, aka Peach- tomato, also know as the naranjilla.

Cocona fruits are a popular food and medicinal fruit used mainly in the Amazon and several countries of South America. They are used for the preparation of several food products such as drinks, jams and milk shakes. 

Mr Kelly cut the fruit, offered us a taste, plus showed us how it is full of small seeds similar to the tomato. Its flavor was a sweet, sour flavor that was mildly acidic, not really pleasant. An acquired taste I guess….

We followed Mr Kelly around the gardens for nearly 2 hours sampling leaves, berries and fruits, smelling flowers how to make tattoos from certain leaves, and just enjoying the whole wonderful experience. Some of these were: Water pears, manzanna rojo, Pineapple, papayas, bananas of differing types from large red ones to small fig bananas, broad beans, other beans, and oh so many other plants and fruits.

Our last stop was in an enclosure which was or is used for the cocoa production. Mr Kelly had previously picked a cocoa pod for us and 1st we all indulged by sampling the raw pulp, which is a supremely wonderful taste. 

Mr. Kelly gave us a demonstration of the cocoa process they use at La Loma. He explained that the cocoa pod is picked, the large beans are taken from the inside and then set to dry in the sun. After which the husky outside of the bean is shucked off, but can still used as a tea.

The inside bean is crushed and can be used as nibs or is put through a grinder and out comes the cocoa paste. The pure rich cocoa paste is rolled into a ball at the end of production. So there are the dried beans, which have a wonderful rich chocolate flavor and then the paste which is the ultimate in dark chocolate flavor.

He next had a surprise for us:

Another memorable fruit, Miracle fruit/berries. He said to pop a red berry in our mouths, suck on it for several minutes and then retry the Cocona that we had found sour and acidic. Well after sucking the Miracle fruit the Cocona tasted quite wonderfully sweet. 

Miracle fruit/berries

The glycoprotein molecule present in this fruit binds to the taste buds when the fleshy part of the fruit is consumed and the miraculin blocks the receptors and activates sweet receptors, causing fresh, candy like taste in the mouth. However, this taste remains up to 30 minutes and vanishes after drinking water.

Our last trail with Mr Kelly led us up and up to the main building of La Loma.

Shaped like a large look out tower it has two floors. The view across the farm to the outlying bays was wonderful!

The upper floor has the restaurant where we were served a delicious lunch. The lunch contained many of the plants and seeds we had seen on the trails around the property. Everybody throughly enjoyed the lunch. 

The Bocas Regatta

Out to anchor we went, with every intention of exploring places yet to be seen. However as there was to be a Bocas Regatta and we happened to know a few of those boats. we went and anchored off of Solarte near the first marker aka turn point of the race. And then they were off, we listened to the radio and therefore knew which of the boats were approaching.

Many had their spinnakers flying and so were quite colourful. The first turn was quite exciting to watch as boats vied to be the ones to get the vantage around the marker without loosing points. We never saw the rest of the race as it was quite a distance away and when they rounded for the second lap everyone was quite spread out. Our friend from Red Frog marina, Louis on his boat Cirque won the race.

(Above the winning boat)

That evening the rain and wind arrived chasing us back to Red Frog marina.

Walks, walks and more 

It seemed like the rainy season had arrived in the dry season. We planned to go back out to anchor, but, everyday we had rain or showers. Being at anchor in the rain can be quite limiting, so we stayed in Red Frog. We actually have a new slip, one where we have much more room, where we are not right next to other boats. The marina continues to be busy and full with all sorts of arrivals. And yes, the mega yachts too.

Between or before showers we went for our walks. Visiting the beach and watching the constant erosion from the huge seas was a daily fascination. This time of year the seas are huge, rolling in from off shore. It really is amazing how the seas now roll to the very top of the beach, the waves are an average of 12 feet and one on top of the other.

The sands have been displaced, some huge tree trunks and branches have been exposed, and where water used to run, it is no more. The air is filled with salty breeze and the constant sound is the roar of the incoming seas.

To walk the beach one now walks right up near and under the tree line. If you walk along the surf-line you’ll be bombed by the surging surf. 

Flying John’s drone:

John hadn’t taken any drone pictures for a while, we headed to the La Rosa beach to fly the drone. Overall it was quite a successful flight. It didn’t last long as he was down a battery pack, but he got some good pics.

Handsome sloths, playful monkeys, exotic birds 

Forever on the look out for different wildlife we have seen a few eagles and hawks, many herons and egrets a handsome Kingfisher and more.

Of course we have daily sitings of sloths, we now see them along most of our pathways. They never fail to entertain us especially when they slowly move from branch to branch, hanging onto the thinnest of twigs, but never falling. 

Monkeys are always exciting to see and watch. We see the White Faced Capuchins along the trails here. They make some impossible jumps from one tree to another, just crazy to watch. And the mothers carrying their babies scurrying along the branches while the little one clings on.

There is one solo male which we often come across. He was sucking the nectar out of the Heliconia flowers aka Lobster Claw flowers one day.  It never gets boring watching the monkeys.

And then of course the lovely Red Frogs

For one beach walk we started at the La Rosa beach to see how far along the shoreline we could travel. It was very enjoyable walking up and along the upper beach looking at the Red Frog property from the beachside. Plus with the over hanging foliage it was also somewhat shady.

Again the scenery was wonderful. All was going excellently until I had a log roll unexpectedly in on and crash on my ankles. Luckily it only shaved the flesh off of one side of one foot. That put a damper on my walks for about a week.

Farm trip Oriba Cacoa 

A friend here at Red Frog invited us to go on another farm trip with her and a few others. We happily agreed, as we are always happy to see more of the area. Plus, I really enjoy learning about plants and animals. 

Off we set around 7:30 on the water taxi to Bocas. There we went to the shop front of the chocolate business, where we met a fellow who guided us to our ride to Almirante. The ride across on a water taxi to the mainland is always a squeeze, in that as many people plus whatever else can fit is shoehorned onto each water taxi which then goes full out top speed to Almirante.

This day was a rainy day and our seats were at the back. Not the place to sit. Almirante is a fairly large town on the Panamanian mainland. It is an export port for the Chiquita bananas. Everyday There are freighters loaded sky high with containers full of bananas. Plus off the docks hundreds of containers in the Chiquita compound. 

We had a minivan awaiting our arrival and were soon off to the village where we were to have our tour. 

Arriving there we were greeted by our guides, which we followed into a large reception area. We were told there are 7 tribes in Panama, the Ngäbe, of which these folks were are the largest of the groups. Permaculture is their system of farming on approximately 200 hectares, with 500 farming families, and it is an Almirante co-op.

The hosts outlined what we were going to do and see, then we were off. 

As said it was a rainy day, but really this didn’t interfere with our enjoying the area. As we walked we stopped by various plants. 

Their Chacara bags are made from the cabuya plant another local name is Peeta, (the older yellow leaves are used) it is a plant she told us is related to the pineapple plant. The long leaves are dried and stripped into twine, which is then dyed using dyes from other plants and finally woven into their Chacara bags. I find it quite incredible that from these long leaves something so intricate can be made, and by hand plus using colors that come from the dyes extracted from local plants.

Within the farming area there are 25 different types of bananas that range in size, colour and taste. All are used as food. 

All the plants we could see are found naturally together and are “farmed”. There is a use for all of them. For example the lemome, a sour citrus can be used as a natural mosquito repellent. 

Dasheen/taro root is used as a potato. It is one of the main foods in their diet. The leaves of the dasheen are used as a type of spinach, cooked up with garlic. 

We came to a small shelter where there were benches to sit, some ladies, and an open fire. This was where we we taught about the Ngobe Cacao production.

There are 70 types of cacao from red to orange to green to yellow pods they specialize in 3 main types on their farm, red, green and orange pods. Each taste slightly different.

They have a huge problem with a fungus that attacks the Cacoa plants. It started 45 years ago and there doesn’t seem to be a way to get rid of this fungus. 

Therefore they work very, very hard as there is a 85% loss each year. Everything is done by hand on this farm, absolutely no pesticides or any artificial means, and no machines are used or have ever been used. The Cacoa mosquitoes pollinate the flowers, and are essential to its production. Therefore the mosquitoes are valued.

In 2022 out of 50 participating countries they, this co-operative of farmers were placed 3rd in quality of chocolate. The co-operative normally have sold to Switzerland, But each year is a wait and see due to the international market. The Ngobe people and farmers get No government help or support from the Panamanian government. 

In 1977 Cacoa went for $7:00 per lb, now it is around .85c. This is a 60% loss, for a crop that is harder than ever to produce. Plus, other countries in the world now produce Cacoa, but they use pesticides, machines and other artificial means so there is tough competition in the market.

The Cacoa trees produce pods for 35 years. The pods take 15 days to ripen. They harvest the pods, take the beans out of the pods, (eating only a little the white flesh – which she called – the embryo and center the placenta). They then put it all along with with the beans in a mixture of plant material, (it looks like a banana leaf), the whole mIxture ferments to 50 degrees Celsius. As The embryo dies you get quality flavor. The beans dry for 90 days dependent on the weather. They can get 12 fruit to make 1/2 kilo of cocoa. 

Meanwhile during the talk we were treated to tasting the white pulp of the pods, which is delicious. We sampled the roasted beans, and a wonderful cocoa drink plus watched as the the roasted beans were crushed and ground into a paste. The stones used for the grinding are as old as forever….they have always used them. The paste had an amazing flavor of pure chocolate. 

After our demonstration we followed the pathway back to the reception hall where we were treated to lunch. The food was a traditional Ngobe dish, with locally raised chicken, the dasheen and taro root, plus the leaves of the dasheen cooked with garlic. It was served in calabash dishes and we used locally made utensils too. All a wonderful, delectable experience. 

“Moi moi” means “thank you” so after saying “moi moi” to our hosts we returned to Alimente and the water taxi back to Bocas Del Toro. 

John and I were curious about a distant beach: Playa Largo

Playa Largo, which is part of the National Marine Park. It is an important sea-turtle nesting area, attracting four species of endangered turtles from about April or May through September.

We had heard a little about this playa, and knew it was supposedly hard to reach. So, as my foot was much better, the weather was sunny and we had wanted a long walk off we set. 

We took the pathway that led above Playa Polo heading through the jungle, listening to all the birds enjoying the wonderful outdoors. At the end of this trail we crossed by what, we’ve been told is a squatters or a caretakers home and headed through the Rainbow Eucalyptus trees.

The trail continued through the jungle that bordered the seashore at times just above a small beach and at other times well into the jungle.

So we did our usual, trekking through muddy areas, climbing over or under fallen trees, brushing past vines, enjoying the adventure.

We emerged from the trail and found an amazingly beautiful beach. Massive waves crashed ashore, huge trees from the jungle over shadowed the upper beach, and it went on for as far as the eye could see.

We walked the beach as far as the 1st point, passing a fresh water pond on one side where I’m sure there must be crocs.

Just after the point was a wooden structure with a small veranda.

This must be where the turtle watchers camp during the turtle season. It was there we ate our snack and enjoyed some water. Afterwards we headed back along the beach and through the jungle.

Again enjoying the return walk, yes, tired but very happy to have seen playa Largo. Upon returning most folks were surprised we made it, but looking back it was a relatively easy walk.

Over all we did 18,631steps so just under 9 miles. Now we are planning a return to Playa Largo, but leaving earlier so we can trek the beach too.

We are thankful for another wonderful month in Bocas Del Toro, Panama and for all the lovely people we met this month and spent time with. Grateful for the wonders we witnessed while walking and exploring. We both make each day count.

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience

 Eleanor Roosevelt

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM—>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/VngjpYyb7kkh5DmT6

 

Out to anchor:

John and I decided to keep our slip at Red Frog as a base and head out to anchor off and on for a few weeks. Basically having the best of both worlds. So our 1st choice was to head out to:

Monkey Island and surrounding area:

Monkey Island is near Isla Popa and consists of a couple of small mangrove isles/cays where a monkey rescue has been set up.

Basically, monkeys that have been taken from the wild as pets and then kept in cages or on chains are freed here. The monkeys have one isle for their day time freedom and in the evening they cross a hanging bridge back to where their night time feed and quarters are found. 

We anchored not too far away, just off a mangrove isle. We enjoyed the peaceful evening. And we did spot monkeys passing through their tunnel between the 2 islands. In the morning we explored in the dinghy by going through a canal between the main island of Popa and one of its smaller isles.

We found there was a small but busy village and farming community. The locals stared out at us, but waved back when we waved as we passed. There were some pretty bays on the outside.

Bluefields:

Was our next destination. This is a bay on the Panamanian mainland, about a mile across and five miles deep with hills of around 800ft climbing from its shoreline. We had been told it was a magnificent bay and were not disappointed. 

On the way there we passed the Zappadillas and were surprised by1st the ocean swell. We had not experienced any since arriving in July. There is a large gap in the reefs and the swell was rolling in. At the mouth of Bluefields we found the seas still rolling in and so proceeded to the end of the bay.

The bay is almost like a gorge as the middle is a good 30 feet deep, but the water shallows out well before the shoreline. The scenery is very beautiful, large rolling hillsides covered in massive trees with a few local homes along the shore. 

We soon had visitors arriving in cayucos, children, grannies, and others. Two teen girls and a kitten were all curious about Chico. They even plonked the kitten on the deck, but all Chico did was sniff the kitten. We gave them food for the kitten and cookies each. All staring at Aeeshah, quite cautiously at first, but after an initial “hola” they were all full of questions. John had previously, mistakenly, bought a case of cola, thinking they were his cervasa. These were a popular gift everyone loved getting a coke. The cookies too were readily accepted. In return we accepted bananas, green coconuts and hand made mesh bags. The villagers are very reserved folks, but ever so sweet and friendly once barriers are broken. One of the strangest visitors was a local motor boat with what looked like a family, they just cruised around us twice and took video with their phone. They seemed intrigued with the rigging.

On our first full morning we went in the dinghy and cruised around about a third of the bay. We passed many dwellings where folks would return our waves. Everyone going about their daily business doing laundry, fishing, etc.

In the bay itself there were always dozens of cayucos with mainly men or boys fishing. Further along the shoreline there were areas that had been cleared and we could see pastures with cattle.

However still the slopes behind were heavily forested, the scenery beautiful, and around each bend unexpected inlets and small bays. The rain started and so we pulled off to the side of a steep slope and sheltered under some trees.

We were able to continue along a bit further, but the rain became more persistent and chased us back to Aeeshah. In fact we decided that the reason the area was so lush is that part of the mainland seemed to attract plentiful rain showers. 

On our last day we went in the dinghy to the end of the bay, where a village was located. We had previously researched about the area and had been told by one of the Red Frog dock hands that there was a path leading to a lovely beach. On arriving at the village we went to what looked like a “public” dock. There John asked some teen girls about the dock. They just giggled as teen girls do, but a young fellow nearby answered that we could safely leave our dinghy there. We tied up and then set off along a concrete pathway. 

This pathway led through the village, up a very steep hill and then down into a valley of small farms. Now the land isn’t cleared for farming, but the bananas, cacoa, cassava, and other farmed plants are kept in their natural setting.

It was a very lush, green, and beautiful walk along this pathway. Occasionally there were small bridges where streams flowed beneath, and the pathway was quite slick with moss, but without that pathway we were sure it would be deep mud. 

Towards the end of the pathway we could see the beach in the distance, we passed through another small settlement and under some coconut palms to the beach. 

And what a beach it was!

It was/is a wild, huge, magnificent beach. The sea rolled in and huge waves crashed, we walked the beach towards firstly one direction to the very end. And then we walked the beach along the other direction, sometimes in the shade of coconut palms or the hillside.

We had one fellow join us as we walked, he chatted to John. Explaining that if we continued onward we would get to the next settlement. We passed small rivers that ran across the beach and into the sea.

Children were fishing in one of the small rivers, proudly displaying the small fish they had caught. Reaching the bend in the beach we could see it continued again into the distance, but we needed to return so we left that stretch for next time.

We walked back and met the young man John had spoken to at the dock. He walked back with us chatting with John.

At the dock were 3 children with huge bundles of bananas, they needed a ride down the bay to another settlement and were awaiting a water taxi. It was quite unbelievable that they had carried those bundles of bananas.

Back we traveled the next day 25 miles to the Red Frog anchorage for the night. And then back into the marina for just under a week. When there an absolutely massive super yacht entered. Its name is Dragonfly,

the owner according to Google is the founder of Alphabet, the co- founder of Google and the 10 richest man in the world. 

At Red Frog this time we spent a few days catching up, laundry, provisioning, had a walk, attended yoga and next we knew we were heading back out. 

1st stop was the south-side of Isla Solarte.

We anchored in two different anchorages, both off mangrove cays. Both anchorages were very peaceful. We explored in the dinghy, going in and out of mangroves bays and around mangrove cays. There were few settlements and just a few expat homes, not really much happening.

We didn’t find any landing areas to get ashore and go for a walk. 

Our 2nd stop was: Saigon Bay.

Here we used the grocery store dock so we could again stock up on provisions. And we walked into Bocas to recharge our phones. Nothing exciting.

3rd stop was: The shoreline near Starfish beach

Again a very pleasant anchorage, this time not surrounded by mangroves, but with the mainland mountains in the distance. We went in the dinghy to explore the shoreline and then along to Starfish beach. 

As it’s name implies there are many starfish in the water at Starfish beach, but it is also a lovely palm tree lined beach where many come to relax and there are plenty of food concessions to be found. We had previously visited, but got there on an ATV we rented. It is a very lovely location.

4th stop, Red Frog Marina again

The weather was predicted to be a little nasty for a few days so we decided to head back to Red Frog for a week or so. Getting back to the marina we were able to enjoy the regular walks.

Sloth hunting, which we are quite inept at now. Bird watching, which depends on how well hidden the birds are at the time.

Monkey spotting had been going well with them showing themselves to us on a daily basis. And seeing Red Frogs, I was happy to see one croaking!

With the windier weather came much bigger seas. The seas were roaring, rolling in at 10 – 12 foot, and at high tide rolling right up to the treelined. In the summer months it had been hard to believe that the massive Red Frog beach could be covered by the waves rolling up it. It is of course quite spectacular watching these huge waves.

One lunchtime we went to Palmar as John needed the fish of the day.

Afterwards, we happened to be on the beach when a kite surfer was setting up. I could not believe he was attempting to kite surf in the waves that were hammering the beach. We stopped to watch, seeing us,

he asked John for help to launch his kite. And sure enough off he went. In the time we watched he managed to surf the length of the beach a few times, but it wasn’t a smooth ride.

It has been a wonderful January. We’ve enjoyed everyday together, and we are blessed with the life we live on Aeeshah.

“When we’re infused with either enthusiasm or awe or fondness … it changes what we see. It changes what we remember.” —  Rob Legato

 

 

 

PHOTO LINK—>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cf9dLVHiemebZxGr6

 

Christmas Eve:

Was the day after Gavin and family left. La Rosa was had a wonderful Christmas dinner which we throughly enjoyed. La Rosa is one of the Red Frog restaurants situated right above the beach.

It is a beautiful setting. The place was full for dinner. We selected the traditional turkey dinner, and what a wonderful meal! The stuffing was amazing, full of nuts and grains. Sangria was served with dinner and the dessert was Christmas cake and Egg Nog!

We really enjoyed the band that was playing, a family whose music was rhythmic with Spanish vocals. 

Bonfire at Red Frog:

We had a quiet Christmas morning followed by a lovely walk.

That evening we went to a bonfire we had been invited to attend. It was held at the side of the Red Frog beach where looking out at sunset was just lovely.

There were a few other cruisers, but mainly residents of the villas were there. All folks we had met during the last few months. It was a very nice evening. We shared nibbles, had a few drinks, chatted and enjoyed each other’s company.

A lovely way to end Christmas.

 

Walks and sights we see:

On one of our daily walks we were at the end of Red Frog beach when a couple from Holland started talking to us. They were going to attempt to continue the walk and try to get to Wizard Beach.

We decided to tag along and see what the path was like and how far we could get. The problem was we were both in flip flops and the path is reputed to be very muddy and rough.

We didn’t get far before I slipped and nearly planted myself in the mud which made me take off my flip flops and walk it bare footed. Continuing we then came to an area which required walking in the sea. I was not about to attempt that bare footed and so we gave up, but promised our selves to go another day when it was low tide, drier and with proper foot attire. 

During several of walks we came across troops of monkeys. There were quite a few of them, plus mothers with babies. We watched them and they watched us. One baby was very adventurous and came quite close to check us out.

The mother was not happy and soon followed to gather him up onto her back.

We have also become very good at sloth spotting, seeing several on most walks.

Seeing them is a daily occurrence. Still spotting birds is a challenge. However we see loads of beautiful butterflies.

 

Wizard Beach and on to Old Bank:

So, about 4 days after our first venture towards Wizard beach, on the eve of NeYear’s Eve we headed off again towards Wizard Beach. This time we equipped ourselves with walking sticks, water 1st aid and snacks and headed into the wooded area behind Red Frog Beach at the north west end.

The pathway was somewhat drier, but still quite muddy and slippery. Unfortunately, just as we were under the trees it started to drizzle. The bonus was the rain kept us cool. It was not as difficult as we had thought to get to Wizard Beach. It took about an hour along a path that was at times, uphill, downhill, with deep mud, along a beach, over rocks and fallen trees, but quite passable.

Wizard Beach was quite spectacular, even in the rain.

There were a few other adventurous folks there, but they were all much younger than us. We walked the entire length of the beach. It is much wider and longer than Red Frog beach, plus the surf is wilder.

We found what we thought was the pathway to Old Bank, and set off down it. Again this pathway was under the cover of trees, then through boggy, muddy, slippery, mucky areas where one had to tread very carefully.

Next there was a few steep, muddy uphill stretches and we came to cleared areas where there were large fields with cattle, plus what looked like farm huts.

Lovely lush fields were on either side of us as the path followed the ridge-line.

There were cattle grazing in the pastures, small farm huts in the shade of trees, hammocks strung, chatter from some cottages, we were emerging from the slippery, muddy, slopes.

We were both quite surprised by the way the island changed. When looking from the seaward side one would never imagine what the center was like.

Eventually we emerged into Old Bank, passing several homes along a pathway we joined the sidewalk that led us into Old Bank.

Old Bank is so wonderfully colorful. It is where the Afro-Carib population lives. Many ended up here generations ago during the old banana plantation days of American Fruit Company. Their culture and language are still Caribbean Island, lively, colorful, and bold. 

We returned to the same restaurant as our previous visit and again had a great fish and chip lunch. After lunch we walked the sidewalk to the other end of town. Passing many homes where children played and ladies were busy with laundry or such.

Again just so very colorful.

New Year’s Fireworks:

After much thought about whether I was able, or capable, of staying awake?? I suggested to John we get a hotel room in Bocas town for New Years night. He thought it was a great idea, Vista Mar was booked the day before New Year.

There were two reasons for going into Bocas town for New Years, the 1st was restaurant Omm and the second was Chinese fireworks.

We arrived at Vista Mar around 3:00pm, finding our room to have a terrific little porch to sit out on with view out over the north anchorage. In the evening we walked to Omm. This is an Indian restaurant that serves great tasting curries, proper Indian ones.

There we enjoyed a very nice dinner of chicken Tikka Masala, samosas and garlic nan together.

After which we sauntered back to our room….the town didn’t look any closer to a major fireworks display than it did earlier. By then I only had 3 hours to stay awake…..well that 3 hours passed dreadfully slow. I played games on my phone, something I rarely do, but it kept me awake.

Finally it was time to head into town to see the famed fireworks. Surprisingly still shops were open, and the only difference was there were lots of people about, but no barriers, yes a few police at the end of the main road, but not really any semblance of a fireworks about to begin. We made our way up to the area where the bigger grocery stores were located.

There we could see something being set up in the middle of the street. It looked like a long swirling red cable, or a fat red snake that swirled along the road for a few hundred feet. There was definitely an air of expectation felt from the crowd that had now gathered on either side of the road, when from the far end the snake had been lit and began to explode as it ran along. By the time the explosions got to the end where we were the sound was deafening, so bad it made me feel dizzy! Sickerly loud!

It stopped and then the fireworks erupted from the middle of the street. Massive explosions, rockets shooting into the air. There were 3 main locations outside the 3 bigger grocery stores. One display would last for 10 minutes or so then another, and another and so on it went for over an hour.

The smoke was all around, the ash fell all over, this was a fireworks display like no other. The story is that the grocery stores compete each New Year for the best display. It’s a matter of pride, so cost is not spared. The fireworks are imported directly from China and set up as only they know how.

Returning to Red Frog Marina the next day, as we walked through town we saw the empty fireworks boxes. Piles of them in front of the Supermarkets. John, being curious, lifted one and found they are heavy, and must be weighted at the bottom. Guessing this is what stops them from falling when fired….

And of course we had just wonderful New Year blue skies.

Promise yourself to be so strong that nothing can disturb your peace of mind.                                                                

Look at the sunny side of everything and make your optimism come true.                                                               

Think only of the best, work only for the best, and expect only the best.                                                                       

Forget mistakes of the past and press on to the greater achievements of the future.                                                      

Give so much time to the improvement of yourself that you have no time to criticize others.                                                     

Live in the faith that the whole world is on your side so long as you are true to the best that is in you.  Christian Larson

 

 

PHOTO Album–>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/SZKczKF1Z4AK12t99

 

Chico woes:

Our Chico was feeling poorly, just not really eating, he hadn’t passed a bowel movement in over a day, he was not running about at all, just not himself. Naturally I was just terribly worried about him. We were about to take him into the vet when we were told that Dr Gloria was coming to the marina to visit all of the dogs. This was wonderful, we went and waited in the laundry/lounge/shower area.

Dr. Gloria checked him, squeezed him and was very concerned. As he is so big she was worried it could be his liver, or his kidneys or a blockage. She injected him with antibiotics and pain medication.

We were instructed to give him laxatives, watch him closely and if nothing passed and there was no improvement then to take him into her on Monday. 

Monday came and despite doing everything we were instructed to Chico was still not well. Into Bocas we went on a water taxi, next a taxi ride to Dr Gloria’s. There she found he was terribly dehydrated and Chico was put on a drip for hydration. Plus he had blood taken to check his health. After a few hours of waiting we were told, his blood work was good, his major organs were therefore working fine, phew! Next step was an enema. We were to leave him and return before 5:00pm for the results. Naturally it was not a good day we were just so worried….. Finally we received the results and John brought Chico home. What was it?

Well, he was plugged up with grass, a whole mess of grass. Why? Well, sometime before when we were at Catamaran Marina he was know to chew grass. So as we had been at anchor for some months and in areas where grass is scarce, I had started to pick him handfuls whenever we went for a walk. He was just so happy to burry him face in the grass and chew on it, I got in the habit of having a vase of it by the sink in the galley. Apparently, Chico had over eaten the grass, which apparently was very course, therefore causing this huge plug. Dr. Gloria said no more grass!!

At Red Frog Marina

Being back in the marina meant walks everyday and many sightings of sloths and monkeys too. Red Frog marina and surrounding area is just wonderful for daily hikes. 

Family visiting

We were waiting with anticipation the arrival of our son Gavin, his wife Katie and our lovely Granddaughters, Lily and Evie. We had been asked to make many plans as they love being active. The girls don’t do boredom….

The arrival day: 

Out to the Red Frog Resort and Marina reception dock we went to meet the arrival of their water taxi from Isla Colon. Gavin and family had flown into Panama the day before, overnighted in Panama City and then got the Copa flight to Bocas Del Torro. The flight itself is quite thrilling as the plane is a small prop job.

Off the panga they all came, hugs all around and then into reception. There they check into their Jungle Lodge and received their complimentary fruit drink.

John and I had rented a golf cart for 24 hours so we could carry the supplies up the hill to their lodging, plus to be able top show them around. The girls thought that this golf cart was our car! The Jungle Lodge was near the top of the main steep hill. A very nice three bedroom place with 3 floors, full kitchen lounge and lovely view.

Katie stayed and unpacked getting everything organized. We all went for a small tour around the lanes, passing the villas and down hill to the Point end of the Red Frog beach. As usual the beach looked wonderful and when leaving we showed them their 1st sloth.

The girls were very impressed. On a little further and Gavin said “Hey Dad stop!” He had spotted monkeys. There were indeed a small troop of monkeys, the White Faced Capuchin. We all were thrilled to see the monkeys, especially as they had only been at Red Frog but an hour. The girls were amazed to watch the monkeys swinging and leaping tree to tree then across the road where we were watching.

Next stop was the marina and Aeeshah to see our home and to meet Chico. Again, Lily and Evie were totally intrigued by what they saw, just amazed that we did actually live on a boat. Also to see that there were many others living on sailboats, even families.

The final stop for the day for us all, including Katie was the Palmar restaurant at red Frog beach. Here we had drinks and a delicious dinner. The girls happily played on the swings or along the beach area near where we sat for the evening.

Off to Nivida Bat Cave and lunch at Old Bank:

Lonely Planet describes this cave tour as: “One of Bastimentos’ most fascinating natural wonders, Nivida is a massive cavern with swarms of nectar bats and a subterranean lake. The cave lies within the borders of the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos and half the fun is getting here”

We were picked up at the Red Frog reception dock by our panga driver along with his son. A fellow called Jim joining our family group for the outing. And off we zoomed towards our destination. Just past the Red Frog anchorage we spotted dolphin splashing and playing. Our driver slowly approached and the dolphin put on quite the display.

The dolphins frolicked in the water at the bow of the panga delighting Evie and Lily. The driver then sped up and the dolphin chased us around and around in circles leaping, racing and splashing in the wake from the boat. Literally racing in the wake, we all were totally entertained. And then they were gone and off we zoomed over to the well hidden entrance that was to lead us to Nivida bat Cave. 

This journey along the canal in the mangroves really was wonderful, the reflections amazing! I for one just love reflections. Along and along we very slowly cruised, until amazingly Lily spotted a sloth hanging right next to us over the water.

And it was a mother sloth with a little baby hanging onto her. She sipped water and then slowly climbed back up the mangrove stem she hung from. Well spotted Lily! Along and along we slowly putted until we came to a rough looking landing spot. There we climbed ashore and headed to a local’s home.

There we met our guide, changed into suitable shoes and water gear because, yes, we were going to get wet in the cave! There were adorable kittens playing in the muddy yard, chickens running around and a very rural home.

However Lily and Evie never questioned the circumstances, they simply enjoyed a hammock that was hanging at the side of this scene….it showed the adaptability of the children. 

Off we hiked down a trail through the trees and jungle on a muddy path. Now to start with both girls were concerned with the mud, and getting the yucky mud on themselves. However this soon changed and the mud became fun!

I know Gavin was amazed by the size of the trees and the abundance of the varieties of plants. The pure beauty of the jungle always amazes me.

Reaching the cave we were given a headlamp and were able to put any necessary items in a dry bag, before heading down into the depths of the cave. 

Right after entering one can see the bats by the hundreds hanging above. As we moved along there were some bats flying above us having been disturbed by the headlamps. We carefully walked in water along a narrow tunnel that was just over our heads too. There were limestone formations and gleaming rocks, we all had to feel our way with careful steps as the ground was very uneven.

The girls did remarkably well, needing some assistance, but totally entertained by this new environment. Katie did tell me she was somewhat scared, well terrified, but she swallowed her fear and continued underground.

We reach an area which was a natural swimming pool with a waterfall at the end where we could swim across the pool to stand under the waterfall.

And, yes, everyone swam across to the waterfall. The water was very chilly from being underground, I believe everyone was quite chilled, Evie was even a shade of blue.

On our way out we found that one of the dogs had followed us underground, and we found many hidden large spiders clinging to the sides. The girls were not phased by the spiders, just intrigued.

Carefully we climbed back out, and made our way back to the base. On the way back Lily and Evie delighted in getting muddy, slipping and sliding in the muddy areas, really enjoying getting totally muddy!

Back at the base we hosed off our muddy feet, dried off, and put on dry clothes.

I had thought we could buy lunch from the locals, but was told not that day. So our driver and his son said they could take us somewhere for lunch.

We all clambered back into our panga and off we cruised enjoying the mangrove reflections back to the open water.

We were taken to Old Bank for lunch. Old Bank is the little town at the northern end of Bastimentos. Locals refer to Old Bank simply as Bastimentos. Most of the town’s residents are West Indian descendants and many speak Guari-Guari, a local language that mixes English, Creole and Spanish. Guari-Guari is fascinating to hear but almost impossible to understand, even though it’s a derivative of English…. It’s actually a bit similar to the Bermudian accent.

Here we had lunch at the most delightful restaurant. It was colourful, airy and looked right over the harbour.

After ordering we went for a stroll around the surrounding area, which was primarily along a sidewalk. Old Bank is wonderfully colourful, full of character, quaint with odd quirks of individualism.

Lunch for me was fish and chips and it was very satisfying, I totally enjoyed the food. 

Back to Red Frog arriving in the mid afternoon, we were able to use the golf cart to take everyone back up the hill to their jungle lodge. Just before leaving I spotted one of the huge yellow crickets. The girls were fascinated by such a big bug.

Walk to Polo beach; Red Frog beach

We decided to enjoy the beaches and area around Red Frog therefor we set off mid-morning with snorkel gear, swim suits etc for Polo beach. Polo beach has relatively calmer waters and is supposed to be ok snorkeling. Gavin was keen to snorkel and see what is was like compared to Bermuda. 

It’s a nice walk getting there, quite scenic, unfortunately the sun hidden behind cloud. However for the sake of girls it was good it wasn’t a really sunny day.

At Polo Papa and the girls enjoyed the shallow waters while gavin and Katie went for a snorkel. After a while Katie climbed out of the water saying she found the current too strong and asking me if I had seen Gavin.

I said I had last seen him heading along towards the distant mushroom rocks. Well, we all looked for his head in the surf, but to no avail, he was out of sight. I stayed with the stuff while they walked down the beach aways where they finally found him climbing out of the water. He had been swept along in the current and instead of trying to fight it he went with it as far as the mushroom rocks and then headed ashore. 

Gavin, Katie and myself then went for a stroll along the pathway under the trees to the next beach while Papa and the girls splashed about in the shallows.

As it was past lunch time we headed off to Red frog beach and Nacho Mommas for lunch. It’s about a 30 minute walk and everyone was quite happy to arrive and relax in the beach chairs with a cold drink and the wonderful tacos.

Meanwhile the girls were again off to enjoy the surf. Papa and Gavin were quite happy to go and play in the surf too. This beach is more a surfer’s beach.

Gavin was very keen to get Lily and Evie adept in the surf so they get to enjoy body surfing. And, really after the couple of hours they spent in the surf they became quite comfortable with the waves crashing and the surfs constant movement. 

 

Aeeshah day out

Again there was an overcast day, but the decision was made to take Aeeshah out regardless. John and I readied her, Katie, Gavin and the girls arrived and off we went. 

I guess we did about an hours cruise, across the Red frog anchorage, down the canal through the mangrove islets around and back, anchoring in the Red Frog Anchorage. 

There we all enjoyed a swim. The girls jumping off  Aeeshah and the dinghy. Gavin took Katie and the girls for a cruise around the mangroves passed the local village.

Next was a barbecued hot-dog lunch, plus water melon. The girls enjoyed looking around our boat home. They were still fascinated by how we live on a boat. Meanwhile Chico laid low, not being used to children he finds them a bit scary. 

The highlight I think was when Papa took the Lily and Evie starfish hunting. And they found 10 starfish. Here in Bocas the very large starfish are quite common. They live in the shallows. Of course John also took the girls on a spin about the anchorage too.

We decided to leave Aeeshah at anchor as we needed a few hours to set her up dockside.

Visit Up the Hill chocolate farm:

Their description: “Welcome to Up in the Hill! We are a family-owned organic chocolate farm and Eco lodge located on Isla Bastimentos in Bocas del Toro, Panama. We started our farm in 2002, and since then we have grown into a fully functioning permaculture farm, producing cacao, chocolate, coconut oil, fruits, herbs and coffee, to name a few. With the production of our farm’s natural resources came the making of our own line of 100% natural body products and also our delicious farm to table coffee shop menu.” 

Another over cast day, but we all set out to have fun. Arriving at Old Bank we followed the sign, up the hill on a pathway to our destination. I guess we walked uphill and across the hilltop under trees, passing homes and gardens for about 20 minutes until we came to a gate welcoming us to Up the Hill. Once there we found a very rustic setting under shady trees. We were welcomed by Javier and his wife while we awaited the arrival of 2 other guests for the tour. 

The tour itself was wonderful. We followed pathways, downhill, over streams, uphill, under trees, ferns and through the farm which is set within a natural setting in that all plants, insects and animals are welcome. Everything is left to coexist, thus there are no chemicals or artificial means used. 

We learnt about 2 differing types of bamboo and their uses, coconuts and their palms, cassava, the calabash, Mayan spinach, various ginger and turmeric plants and roots, differing bananas, orchids, berries, Jack-fruit, seeds, flowers, plants, trees and more.

We tasted, felt and enjoyed an abundance of smells and tastes. We saw a tiny boa that one of the family’s sons brought from the chicken house to show us. We were shown many differing tiny frogs, some the red frog others pale yellow and others greens.

And of course we were shown the cacoa plants, the pods and even the flowers. All of which contribute to the making of chocolate. We were also proudly shown the farm’s coffee plants which took many years of trial and error to grow and perfect.

Evie and Lily were happy to spend a few minutes jumping on the family’s trampoline! 

Then it was time for our lunch and what an amazing lunch. It comprised of many of the plants we had seen. Mayan spinach, coconut in a soup, bananas with chocolate, bananas dried, Cassava strips and just so much more.

All very delicious. Meanwhile we were given a demonstration of the cacoa process by Javier. He also gave us a taste test, 1st we had a taste of a very, very, sour lemon/orange.

Then we waited a minute and popped a red berry into our mouths and chewed, following with the same lemon/orange. The difference was extraordinary! The same very sour lemon/orange was now amazingly sweet.

Why? The berry was Stevia. Lily and Evie were most impressed and gobbled the sour lemons/oranges as the taste was wonderful!

It was time to leave so back down the hill we went, the girls enjoying the muddy paths, so different from their 1st encounter with muck mud.

Dolphins; Zappordillas, Coral cay

We ended up doing our trip on a day that was forecast to be sunny, but was yet again overcast. However on reflection it was just as well as Im sure the girls and Katie would have been burnt. 

The park is described as: “two islands, ringed by golden sand beaches and coral reefs teeming with life, fall inside of the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park. Its famous crystalline waters and golden sands are ideal for snorkeling and diving during the right months. Otherwise, the water may be a bit cloudy and has a current on the seaside. These islands are also essential ecological sites for the critically endangered Hawksbill sea turtles that nest on their shores.”

We were taken from the Red Frog dock, the 1st stop being to watch the dolphins in the same area we had previously watched them. I guess the dolphins understand they need to show off for the tour boats as sure enough the dove, jumped and splashed around us.

Next was a brief stop at Coral cay to arrange our lunch and then off to the Zappordillas. The crossing was a bit rough as the surf was up, but we still flew across the waves out 20 or so minutes to the islets. They are indeed surrounded by sand and palm trees. Evie was in the water before anyone even realized, so after a false start we set off to find a good swim area for us.

We followed an inland pathway to the end of the the island and found the beach all but deserted. This end faced the other island with reef in-between. The surf was quite rough between the islands, but where we set up it was just a nice surf coming ashore.

We all swam, the girls agin really enjoying the surf. We ate sandwiches we had brought,

swam some more and then headed back to the pick up point/dock. The island itself is very much a tropical isle with coconut palm trees, hermit crabs and white sand, but it is also well used.

After leaving we went back to Coral cay to the restaurant where the girls enjoyed a frozen fruit drink and the hammocks. The next stop was to snorkel at Coral cay reefs. Gavin, Katie and the girls went in. They weren’t in for long as they found there to be a strong current running, plus the water was murky as if from coral spawn and the reef was nothing special. Gavin said it was very different from Bermuda reef, nice but not spectacular.

Bocas Town, final surf time

Our next and final family day was spent by a taking a panga ride into Bocas town.

John and I had a few things to pick up and they wanted to have a look around. We had a pleasant lunch of sushi as Lily and Evie love sushi.

Then back to Red Frog we went – they all went zip-lining while we returned Aeeshah to the dockside.

Our last evening was very nice. We went to Palmar for dinner and Gavin, John and the girls went swimming in the surf.

The girls just adore the surf now!  

I asked Gavin, Katie and the girls for a “review”and was pleased by what I was sent:

Hi Ma,

We all had a great time and enjoyed the range of activities. The girls loved all of the wildlife and adventure. They need to be kept busy and there was never a dull moment. It was also very educational for them to see different cultures, creatures and habitats. We got very lucky spotting some of the animals and insects. 

I think the most exhilarating moment for everyone was the bat cave. The numerous beaches were also a hit and I was very proud of how well the girls  handled the surf. My favorite activity was the cocoa farm, it was very interesting and even though a bit much for the girls I think they too enjoyed the different plants and fruits. 

Lastly the people of Panama were wonderful. I was surprised by the different towns, cultures and background of each group of people and how they existed separately but also functioned well together. 

“Love grows by giving. The love we give away is the only love we keep. The only way to retain love is to give it away.”  Elbert Hubbard

“The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. Eleanor Roosevelt

 

PHOTO ALBUM ->> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FF82nsrvDQMoNH5S6

Thanks!

For all the rain, but really we have had enough now. The area had been suffering from a terrible drought. There was no water in the town, laundry couldn’t be done, the locals were protesting, a state of emergency was declared for the region and huge water trucks were sent in to deliver water.

And then it rained, and rained, and rained. We felt overjoyed to start with, our laundry went in to be done, we filled our tanks with rain water instead of using the water maker, everyone was relieved. But now it has been two weeks of rain and really enough is enough. 

Then, finally the sun peeked out. 1st for a few hours and then for a near full day. By this time we were back at the Red Frog anchorage and so took full advantage of the weather.

We walked to the beach, seeing sloths along the way. We strolled the beach and had a wonderful lunch at Macho Mommas. Their fish tacos are just amazing, John goes for the fish and chips.

After lunch we took the trail back to the look out area at the end of the beach

and enjoyed watching the surge crashing on the rocks. On our way back we spotted the Red Frogs and sloth.

Flat batteries 

Meanwhile, our batteries arrived from Panama City. The old ones were nearly 5 years old when they started to fade and before long they faded and died. It meant we were using the generator for hours in the morning and hours in the evening. Plus with the lack of sunshine, due to all the cloudy rainy days the solar array just wasn’t doing it.

We arranged to have Bocas Marine bring them in. John was really happy, he got them installed in a few hours and voila!! Lots of power, plus staying power as they are new. 

Dead Fridge = big inconvenience

Coincidentally our fridge was unable to maintain power. John was sure it was connected to the batteries, then he decided it was fuses that needed replacing and then it too died. That was a sad day when our fridge died, as the freezer was full of food too.

We were then reliant on bags of ice to try to keep everything chilled, needless to say that barely works. This also meant we had to be anchored near the town, which is far from ideal. The refrigeration fellow was busy, we waited a week for him to get back to us and come, but didn’t even hear back from him. Finally, just as we were giving up and had ordered a new fridge, we heard back from him. He had a second hand circuit board which should work in the fridge.

The next day we finally met up in Bocas town, got the part, John carefully installed it and, YES! The fridge started and has continued to work. 

Anchored off Bocas town

All this time we were anchored in the Bocas town south anchorage. This is not a good anchorage, the holding is poor and the water taxis zoom right through, usually 4 of them just before and just after the hour. But, we needed to be near our ice source and close to town for the repair man. However on the plus side there were lovely views across the bay towards the mountains.

Beautiful sunsets, bright early mornings, cloud displays in the distant mountains and approaching weather to watch. 

What else to do around Bocas town?

Most, if not everyday, we did a walk around the town, seeing what there was new or happening up and down the streets. One day we stopped and watched the ferry loading up.

There are no roads or bridges here from the mainland, everything and person arrives by water, (or some, not many, by air). The ferries are quite large and carry, people, livestock, foods, delivery trucks, tankers, container trucks, basically everything.

The container trucks and such have very little room to maneuver when going back aboard the ferry. We spent about half an hour, hanging out with some local men, watching the ferry reload, a bit like a game of Tetris.

Chico 

One of the days we took Chico ashore in his carrier and set off to the local vet. Dr. Gloria was very young and knowledgeable. She gave Chico his shots without too much trouble and then strongly recommended he go on a diet for obese cats. He’s in danger of many health issues, diabetes, bone issues, joint issues, liver problems…….

Of course I said YES! It’s a special formula, plus a liquid medication. He is only allowed 70g of food a day. We bought a little scale to get the amount right and so far he seems happy and healthy enough. Hopefully this time we see some results, cause at 24lbs he really is too heavy.

Red Frog anchorage

Being back in the Red Frog anchorage, life is once again peaceful.

The local empanada girl comes by around 7:30am to sell us pollo empanadas, which we have for lunch. The holding is great, hardly a water taxi do we see,

there’s a lovely breeze, life is back to normal. 

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/GyF8rA1HvrYhXBAA9

John and I continued to enjoy our walks around Red Frog. We both love walking the Red Frog beach especially in the early morning as there are so few folks about.

The lane to Polo Beach had been blocked off, supposedly to stop golf carts, but we just walked through the mud and onward to the beach.

We ventured as far as Polo Beach and even met Polo. The walk was quite warm, as normal, but we cooled off with a refreshing swim once at the far end of Polo Beach. It was lovely, not a soul about and the scenery is always amazing.

Lunches were enjoyed at Macho Mamas, after a walk along the beach.

Many other times climbing to the heights of Red Frog via the pathways, its lovely and shaded and never anyone about.

A treat is spying a large troop of monkeys. We still find it challenging spotting sloths in the trees. The yellow grasshoppers are fewer now, all these kept us busy on our daily morning walks.

At anchor

However the time had come to leave Red Frog Marina and head out to explore anchorages. We said our – see you laters to our marina friends and motored off to the Red Frog anchorage.

I should mention that there has been little wind in the area since we have been here, so sailing isn’t really an option, yet.

The Isla Colon anchorages

Anchoring in the south anchorage off the Bocas town meant we could stock up on essentials. However the anchorage is like a freeway of water taxis, they zoom right through the anchorage, so, we did our shopping and left the next morning. Next time we go to town we will anchor in the north anchorage.

The holding in both anchorages is not the best and as said the water taxis fly right through, even at night without any lights. These anchorages are just for getting supplies. 

Dolphin Bay, 

also known as Laguna Bocatorito is a lagoon between the Island of Cristobal and a peninsular with an irregular shape extending from mainland Panama. The lagoon extends for about 4 miles, is surrounded by mangroves which in turn, attract an abundance of small fish and crustaceans which makes it a perfect habitat for dolphins.

These dolphins are the Bottlenose variety, and are unique as they share a particular genetic trait. 

We anchored the first night at the eastern part between several mangrove cays. It was very peaceful with only a few water taxis passing, nothing like the dozens in the Bocas anchorage. And, yes, we did spot many Dolphins. 

For our next several nights we were anchored in the southern part of the huge Dolphin lagoon. On our way across we were followed by several Dolphins that played at racing Aeeshah off the bow as we motored along. 

In the anchorage it was incredibly peaceful with virtually no water traffic. The waters were normally dead calm, affording amazing reflections.

Each day we would set off to explore the shoreline. Slowly cruising in the dinghy past the small indigenous Ngabe settlements, waving to the friendly children.

Enjoying the peaceful surroundings, looking for birds, crocodiles, dolphins enjoying the scenery.

Greenacres caoco farm tour:

Near where we were anchored was the Greenacres Caoco Farm. We called the number posted and arranged a visit. It was halloween and when we arrived there were decoration hanging all around ….

The property is lovely, the gardens are beautifully kept, the forested area with the large Almendro trees was left in its natural state to encourage the growth of these majestic trees.

The owner Gary, and his helper Elmer showed us around. Gary introduced us to many edible local plants all of which tasted surprisingly good. The names of which I do not remember.

He helps the locals with sustainable local plant farming by planting and encouraging them to grow and eat the local plants and not rely on what the town stores offer for sale by way of Western foods. (That are generally not nutritious)

 Gary also has a replanting of forest trees program where he supplies the saplings of the Almendro tree to reforest where these trees have been felled. These particular trees are the main life givers of the jungle. Many, many animals, insects, and plants rely on them for homes. And as we know all life is inter connected.

Gary showed us his Caoco trees and the fruit. We sampled the pulp, plus he had us crunch the beans. Previously I had always spat the beans out, but amazingly they tasted quite nice, however I still prefer the pulp.

There are differing types of the plant which produce differing colored pods and each produces a differing flavor. He showed us that in the discarded bean pods, where there was water held due to the rain, were little green frogs hiding away. he said these ones were the same as the the red frogs, but had developed their own special color trait.

And of course there are sloths hanging from the branches of the trees.

Gary’s Cacoa bean set up is very basic. There is the drying rack where each month the newest batch of beans are set to dry in the sunshine.

There are his homemade machines all in a small shed where his entire production takes place. 

It was a lovely walk back to his home through the lush gardens.

At the house there were a selection of treats for us to sample, chocolate tea, nibs, chocolate with coconut and with a ginger peanut butter mix, plus 2 different chocolate cream rum shots to enjoy.

Gary also has a few Green parts that he has rescued. I asked to see them and so we went to where they are kept. These were babies when he found or got them. Ideally he would like to rehabilitate them to the wild.

Both John and I felt slightly buzzed from the pure chocolate, a very nice feeling. I rated the visit to Green Acres as excellent.

Celebrations in Bocas del Toro

November is full of holidays/ celebrations in Panama and especially Bocas. These are celebrations of history, heritage and independence.

The main way the locals in Bocas celebrate is by having drumming and rhythmic band competitions plus marches and Fiestas Patrias. Unfortunately the weather was uncooperative for some of these days, so we never got to see many.

However, one morning we did see the speeches at the start of a parade. Everyone was dressed up in their uniforms waiting to start. Apparently it is an honor to be part of the march, only the special are chosen or earn the privilege.

The best in the class at school, the honor students, the important are chosen, but everyone wants to so the completion is fierce all through the year. And they practice all year. The rest of the folks are spectators who stand and cheer them on. On the final day they have an epic parade, which we missed due to rain, but despite this we could hear the bands all the way from the Red Frog anchorage. 

Hiking Isla Carenero

It was my birthday and when asked what I wanted, I stated, 1stly not cooking for a whole day, and secondly a good walk somewhere new. So a plan was laid, breakfast at JJs, walk around Isla Carenero, light street food for lunch and a Mediterranean take out dinner.

Breakfast at JJs was as usual excellent! I just love their Breakfast sandwich. From there we went and caught/got a water taxi to: 

Carenero Island

Carenero Island (in Spanish: Isla Carenero) is a long and forested island located just a few hundred meters east of Isla Colón. The name of the island comes from the nautical term careening, which means to lean a ship on its side for repairing or scraping its hull.

There are no roads on the island, just tracks mainly leading from one place to the next or around the fringe of Carenero. We got a water taxi from Bocas town on Isla Colon to a dock along the south shore. And basically set off in the easterly direction.

It proved to be a lovely walk. The path runs alone the shoreline which is lined with palm trees and mainly sandy beach. The day was a bit over cast when we started and as usual we were accompanied by a couple of local dogs. 

On the inside we could see thick mangrove swampy area which also had massive trees with huge roots twisting and winding all over the swamp. I found these trees and roots quite fascinating.

Plus there were hundreds of crabs and hermit crabs scurrying along getting on with their daily business. 

Often water ways drained from the swampy inland to the beach and we climbed along logs or rustic walkways. At the eastern end there was a look out point and the option to cut the walk short by heading along a path across the swamp, we chose to carry on.

The next part of the trail along the northern shore became rougher with several slopes to scramble up, roots to climb through and cliffs to climb down, but all easily done. Still looking out across the water the views were lovely especially as the day brightened up.

Further along we passed a few newish homes obviously foreign owned as they had privacy signs, gates, fences and barbed wire. One had even tried to block the path with barbed wire and a feeble fence.

From there around to the western shore the path lead in front of pretty homes and lodges, leading all the way to the small settlement where the locals live.

We were a bit disappointed by the trash around the settlement, everywhere trash had been dropped and left.

Back along the southern shore the views were stunning as the sun was out fully from behind the clouds and the morning was now hot. We waited at the dock and got a passing water taxi back to town.

Back at the boat we were going to move to a deeper anchorage away from the town when we discovered we had lost the depth, speed and direction instruments. hummm! It had to have been the lightening the night before. Very disappointing as we had just replaced to old set with this new one. And it meant we had to return to the Red Frog anchorage where we had recorded depth soundings.

So just like that my Birthday was over. However, John has subsequently put the old electronics back in and we have our depth, wind and direction again

Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte

From the Red Frog anchorage we took the dinghy across to Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte aka Nancy cay.

When we arrived we found that there is no dock just the trees at the beach to leave the dinghy tied to. Nobody was about and we found that the buildings are in a private grounds area.

Never mind we set off to find the old cemetery. This whole area was used by the United Food Company from 1899-1920 for their banana plantation workers. However a blight killed off most of the bananas they were growing and several workers died from Yellow Fever and Malaria, thus the cemetery.

After following a few different paths we found the cemetery under some very large shady trees, a lonely place indeed. We decided to continue on the same path as it headed down island and it proved to be just wonderful.

Most of the way we were accompanied by 2 sweet little dogs who found us. The path wove uphill through  forested slopes, downhill through muddy areas, past a few distant local homes where chickens ran from us.

The trees were huge, keeping us shaded the whole way. We finally reached a fork in the path both directions leading downhill towards opposite shores and decided we should head back.

We had been along this path for over an hour and really needed to get back and check our dinghy. It was just as wonderful heading back. All was fine we said goodbye to the dogs and dinghied back along the shoreline.

The shoreline was quite lovely too with shallow reefs and the forested island behind.

I really feel that for me the over all theme of this past month has been reflection, in so many aspects of the month there has been reflection, of my life, on beliefs, of others and in the daily views around me.

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM >>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/gDKqjjNfvUjrtMX18

Off to Panama City 

We had a few odds and ends to do in Panama City, plus we had missed celebrating John’s 70th Birthday so we decided to turn the trip into a road adventure.

From Bocas we flew to Albrook where we once again stayed in the Wyndham Albrook mall hotel. This hotel is attached to the enormous mall and close to Albrook airport making it really convenient. 

Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo

Our first day trip was into Panama City to Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo, this area is the fabulous old city of Panama. UNESCO has recognized the old city’s cultural and architectural importance and listed Old Town as a World Heritage Site.

A walking tour with Conrad

 I was thinking we would do a self guided walking tour. We had an online map and figured we would follow along. Our first stop was where the taxi dropped us at the:

Iglesias Casco Antiguo,

a church, which was founded in 1609 and appeared interesting to look around. The relics, statues and painting were obviously incredibly old.

After the church we were trying to find our way to the next site when an older gentleman stopped us and offered a tour. We were hesitant, but he was persistent and persuasive. So that was how we hooked up with Conrad for the morning’s street tour. He really knew his history and the stories of the city and characters that it was renowned for.

We walked onto the Iglesia de san Jose with its Golden Altar,

not solid gold but carved mahogany covered with gold leaf. Again a magnificent church.

Next stop was the Iglesia de la Company de Jesus which is essentially just ruins of what was in 1641 built as Jesuit monastery, apparently in 1767 the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the Colonies and the church was abandoned.

All along the way we walked along narrow quaint alleys and streets listening to Conrad’s stories which were interesting and numerous.

Passing various museums, churches, government buildings,

the French embassy,

along Calle 5 where venders were selling Panamanian mementos, the mollas were beautiful.

From the top of the old city walls we could gaze over the Pacific Ocean,

below us a rocky beach and various seabirds rested.

There’s a magnificent vista of the sky-scraper-pocked skyline of the modern business zone across the water.

We passed the Plaza de Francia walked along to Las Bovedas. A row of nine vaulted spaces called bóvedas, or “the vaults” these originally functioned as a Spanish dungeon and later as a jail, storehouse and offices. Conrad had gruesome stories about these vaults. 

Conrad took us into a Panamanian hat store where they made and sold these special hats. Again he had much to tell and explain to us. 

Passing by Casa Gongora, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asis which is now the Ministry for Home Affairs,

the Plaza Bolivar and Parque Bolivar, all the time dear Conrad was explaining the history and telling stories, too numerous to tell.

In the distance we could hear the rumble of thunder, it was lunch time, we could tell Conrad was tired, he didn’t want lunch with us so was paid him well, thanked him profusely and went to the restaurant he recommended.

Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum

After a wonderful lunch we visited the Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum. It was surprisingly large and gave the full history of the area starting way before in pre Columbian times.

The history is really, horrible, the people, the workers were not treated well, especially black folks. Overall the Americans were harsh, unfair, task masters. 

There was a section that was from National Geographic which dealt with the pollution of plastic which was horrific!

Off to El Valle de Anton

For our 2nd full day we had arranged to pick up a car at the Albrook airport for 10:00am and by 10:30 we were on the Pan-American Highway out of the city. This is the main artery from North America to Central America and Panama.

We were headed to El Valle de Anton where we had the Eclipse hotel booked. Using our Google navigator we easily exited the city, crossed the Panama Canal on the famous Panama Canal bridge

and before we knew it we were turning off onto a small country lane towards El Valle de Anton, but to me it didn’t make sense as according to my info we were still some many miles away from El Valle de Anton. Anyway we drove along the lane to check out our hotel as that’s where is was located.

Seeing the Eclipse Hotel as we passed it looked like a very nice place, but it was too early to check in so we decided to drive on towards where google maps indicated El Valle was to be found.

We followed our Google map driving guide into the mountains. The scenery was stunning driving down the increasingly narrow lane. We reached an “intersection” ….straight ahead, left or right? Our driving guide said straight ahead, so off we went.

This was a very steep lane that turned into an unpaved track, but with no room to turn, deep, ditches on either side we had to keep going, up and up, around and about sharp bends. Finally, reaching a dead end at the Laguna – Lake, oh and camping site. I jumped out to take a photo when a young couple climbed up the path from the lake.

We said hello and then John proceeded to turn the car around. That was when they called out to us…..we had a very flat front tyre. Probably from all the off road driving we had just done. The couple were from Venezuela, had relocated to Panama and were out looking at property.

He helped John with the tyre and then they drove slowly in front of us all the way down. I think they were perturbed to find 2 old, dears, out in the middle of nowhere….

We backtracked down the track and then tried the right turning. This too proved to be a dead end, just leading to farmlands. Back down again we went this time stopping at Eclipse, our hotel, to check in and leave our bags. The lady there told us where to go along the PanAmerican highway to get our punctured tyre fixed, so off we went.

By now it was well past lunch, too late for lunch we had a few tangerines. The tyre place was only a few miles down the PanAmerican highway. The tyre was fixed within 20 minutes and only cost $11.

Back to Eclipse we headed.

This hotel was miles away from where we had hoped to be, but it was just lovely. Out in the middle of nowhere, with excellent views of the Pacific ocean in the distance and mountains on the other side of the building. Plus they served great food for dinner and breakfast too.

The next morning we set off to find El Valle de Anton, guessing it must be down the left hand turning. (Of course we could have gone via the PanAmerican highway, but didn’t)

This left hand bend led up to wonderful countryside. It was absolutely beautiful with the farmland and the mountains, streams and rivers.

Yes, again the lane was narrow, with ditches on either side and very steep at times, with sharp bends, but again with very little traffic. We both thoroughly enjoyed the journey and found El Valle.

El Valle de Anton 

The town of El Valle is beautiful! It is situated in the crater of an extinct volcano, surrounded by mountains. The feel was almost alpine.

Our first stop was the butterfly farm: Butterfly Haven.

Here we took a tour, first learning all about different species of butterflies and moths. We saw the caterpillars, then the chrysalises. After which we entered the breeding and flying zone, an enclosed garden. We both loved the Owl Eyed moths.

Their markings are so realistically like an eye it’s just incredible. The Blue Morpho  butterflies are very beautiful when flying flashing their blue inner wings, but when they land their exterior wing colour is a mix of brown markings.

There were glass butterflies with clear wings, red butterflies, green ones, yellow ones, just so many different types and sizes. We both were well entertained.

I had various sites in mind for our next stops, but by sheer accident we ended up at the Piedra Pintada entrance site. This is where there is a huge rock with hieroglyphics….not knowing that this was also the trail head for the Sleeping Indian Woman hike,

La India Dormida.  

La India Dormida which translates into The Sleeping Indian Girl, is a mountain ridge that’s shaped like a sleeping woman’s body. You can easily see the resemblance when looking at it from El Valle de Anton (not so much when you’re actually on top of the mountain).

Anyway, oblivious to the distance or difficulty, off we trekked with just my camera and a bottle of water…..  I did wonder why the group of teens ahead of us had two bottles of water each with them. Seeing all these teens with their teacher escorts I was pleased that they headed off leaving the trail quiet and empty for us. However we came across them at the large rock, Piedra Pintada and figured we would go a bit further and see the famous rock when we returned. 

Up and up we hiked and climbed, the pathway was very slippery at times as small streams crossed it. We passed many lovely waterfalls, everything was millions of tones of green. The group of teens and their teachers passed us hurrying up the trail. …

Still the trail continued, steeper with boulders to climb over and slippery mud. Up and up we followed, we caught up with one of the teachers and a few of the slower students, so we ended up chatting and hiking together for aways.

The few folks coming down kept telling us how much further we had, 45 minutes at least, oh half an hour. Finally we came to a vista where we could see just how high we had climbed. Like WOW! The view was wonderful,

John asked me if I wanted to head down, “hell no!” Not after investing all that energy I wanted to reach the top. So on I slogged, John found it easier, my thighs were in pain with all the steep climbing. Plus I was wondering how the heck I was gonna get down?? 

Finally, we broke out of the trees and onto the ridge line, what a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.

The path then followed the ridge line, it was still a bit steep with sheer drop offs, but we could see ahead and around us.

We followed the rocky ridge line path all the way to the top of the Sleeping Indian Woman. And what a magnificent view! It was magic!

We enjoyed the top peak.

Admiring the views, looking across the valley.

Seeing all the mountains around us, cooling off in the breeze.

It was then time we headed down as we could see the clouds heading in across the valley.

The downward trek was tough! I had to be very careful not to slip and fall, but again the scenery was magical. The rain did arrive, but this just made the greens greener.

The school group bombed ahead so John and I had the pathway to ourselves. It was one of the best hikes ever!

And when we came across the large rock, Piedra Pintada nobody was there so we enjoyed it by ourselves.

Piedra Pintada is a giant rock, the largest of the petroglyphs and sculptures found in the Anton Valley dating back to pre-Columbian times, possibly about 8,000 years ago. 

So…2 and 1/2 hours after we started we emerged from the starting point, 2:30pm.

Here is a local myth told about the Sleeping Indian Girl:

Flor del Aire was the daughter of Urraca, the most successful Chief in Panama fighting against the Conquistadores. It was her misfortune to fall in love with one of the Spanish soldiers. Yavari, one of the strongest fighters of her tribe, vied for her affection. When she did not return his love, in despair, he jumped to his death from a mountain top before the Princess’ eyes. In sorrow Princess Flor del Aire left her home and never saw the Spaniard again.
She crossed mountains and valleys bitterly weeping over her fate. Above the beaches of the Caribbean she fell dead looking back at the beloved mountains where she had been born. The mountains were so touched by this sad love story they decided to form the shape of the Princess, and that is how the India Dormida arose.

Based on Presbitero José Noto, De Historia

We drove into the town parked up and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Then off we went to visit the local market. Which we enjoyed walking around, seeing and buying fruits, and a few local crafts.

Next stop Boca Chica

Having spent 2 nights in Eclipse Hotel near El Valle we were set to drive to a hotel I had booked in Boca Chica. The main objective that day was to cover some road miles and perhaps see a Pacific beach. We drove the Pan American highway and except for turn offs for large resorts we never saw any turn offs suggesting a beach.

Plus, we realized we had many miles to cover. After the turn off towards Bocca Chica we encountered miles and miles of roadworks, plus delays.

At Bocca Chica, I was quite surprised to find that I had booked us into a home stay…..after previous experiences we normally avoid home stays.

We met the owner who was very nice, she explained that they fostered dogs and cats. At present they had 5 dogs and 5 cats living in the home. They started fostering during covid. We were given a bedroom and offered breakfast for the next morning.

So off we went to stretch our legs and look around Bocca Chica. It’s really just a very small, rural, fishing village set in an inlet behind an island. We saw the fishing boats, and walked the village’s 2 lanes, went to the local “grocery store” which was very tiny, had a lobster dinner in a nice, little restaurant, and that was Bocca Chica.

Boquete

Our next destination was the famous Boquete, we set out after a very nice breakfast that the lady of the house cooked us. The day was bright but as we drove the clouds began to set in and the drizzle began to fall. This was the beginning of the side effect from hurricane Julia that was nearing and then passing Central America. 

 

Boquete is a small town on the Caldera River, in western Panama. The surrounding Chiriquí Highlands are home to coffee plantations and the Barú Volcano National Park, to the west. Highlights in the park include the towering Barú Volcano and Los Quetzales Trail, which offers sightings of the elusive quetzal bird. North of town, the Bajo Mono Loop drive has expansive views of the forest. All of which we hoped to see, but…..

Arriving in Boquete in the rain we found a parking spot and went for lunch and a warm drink, yes it was cold! I was freezing, the temperature was now 66 degrees Fahrenheit, all I had on were shorts and a sleelessT shirt. We pulled out the fleeces, in fact I wore a sweater and a fleece, and set out to enjoy a very nice lunch. 

Our hotel in Boquette was lovely, set in the highlands around the town, with a river running right through the gardens. Our room was wonderful so we really didn’t mind spending the rest of the day hanging out in the room, keeping warm and dry. Later going for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant and having an excellent meal.

In the morning the rain was unrelenting, it was just pouring down in torrents. Oviously our plans changed, we did the best we could to see what we could in the pouring rain.

First we bought umbrellas. We took a drive around the town, drove into the mountains for a few miles, stopped at a few bridges to watch the flooding rivers.

We walked through Boquete looking at shop windows, had lunch, got quite wet and returned to our hotel room.

We awoke to a wonderful blue sky the next morning.

The drive to Changuinola

It was time to drive to Changuinola to return the car to Avis. We needed to arrive by 1:00pm and we had 208 kilometers to drive. We really didn’t have time to stop for pictures so I clicked out the window trying to get a few good shots as the passing countryside was beautiful.

The road was narrow and windy, up into the mountains, passing farmland, rivers and gorges. As we climbed the clouds were gathering in the highlands.

As we descended  the farms changed from cattle to banana plantations and we could see the Caribbean sea between the tops of the mountains. In fact the whole flavor of the country side change from mountain to Caribbean shoreline.

Once at Changuinola we returned the car, got a taxi to Almirante and then a water taxi to Isla Colon followed by another back to Red Frog Marina. It was a wonderful trip, which we intend to repeat sometime in the future.