Aeeshah

 

 

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Out to anchor:

John and I decided to keep our slip at Red Frog as a base and head out to anchor off and on for a few weeks. Basically having the best of both worlds. So our 1st choice was to head out to:

Monkey Island and surrounding area:

Monkey Island is near Isla Popa and consists of a couple of small mangrove isles/cays where a monkey rescue has been set up.

Basically, monkeys that have been taken from the wild as pets and then kept in cages or on chains are freed here. The monkeys have one isle for their day time freedom and in the evening they cross a hanging bridge back to where their night time feed and quarters are found. 

We anchored not too far away, just off a mangrove isle. We enjoyed the peaceful evening. And we did spot monkeys passing through their tunnel between the 2 islands. In the morning we explored in the dinghy by going through a canal between the main island of Popa and one of its smaller isles.

We found there was a small but busy village and farming community. The locals stared out at us, but waved back when we waved as we passed. There were some pretty bays on the outside.

Bluefields:

Was our next destination. This is a bay on the Panamanian mainland, about a mile across and five miles deep with hills of around 800ft climbing from its shoreline. We had been told it was a magnificent bay and were not disappointed. 

On the way there we passed the Zappadillas and were surprised by1st the ocean swell. We had not experienced any since arriving in July. There is a large gap in the reefs and the swell was rolling in. At the mouth of Bluefields we found the seas still rolling in and so proceeded to the end of the bay.

The bay is almost like a gorge as the middle is a good 30 feet deep, but the water shallows out well before the shoreline. The scenery is very beautiful, large rolling hillsides covered in massive trees with a few local homes along the shore. 

We soon had visitors arriving in cayucos, children, grannies, and others. Two teen girls and a kitten were all curious about Chico. They even plonked the kitten on the deck, but all Chico did was sniff the kitten. We gave them food for the kitten and cookies each. All staring at Aeeshah, quite cautiously at first, but after an initial “hola” they were all full of questions. John had previously, mistakenly, bought a case of cola, thinking they were his cervasa. These were a popular gift everyone loved getting a coke. The cookies too were readily accepted. In return we accepted bananas, green coconuts and hand made mesh bags. The villagers are very reserved folks, but ever so sweet and friendly once barriers are broken. One of the strangest visitors was a local motor boat with what looked like a family, they just cruised around us twice and took video with their phone. They seemed intrigued with the rigging.

On our first full morning we went in the dinghy and cruised around about a third of the bay. We passed many dwellings where folks would return our waves. Everyone going about their daily business doing laundry, fishing, etc.

In the bay itself there were always dozens of cayucos with mainly men or boys fishing. Further along the shoreline there were areas that had been cleared and we could see pastures with cattle.

However still the slopes behind were heavily forested, the scenery beautiful, and around each bend unexpected inlets and small bays. The rain started and so we pulled off to the side of a steep slope and sheltered under some trees.

We were able to continue along a bit further, but the rain became more persistent and chased us back to Aeeshah. In fact we decided that the reason the area was so lush is that part of the mainland seemed to attract plentiful rain showers. 

On our last day we went in the dinghy to the end of the bay, where a village was located. We had previously researched about the area and had been told by one of the Red Frog dock hands that there was a path leading to a lovely beach. On arriving at the village we went to what looked like a “public” dock. There John asked some teen girls about the dock. They just giggled as teen girls do, but a young fellow nearby answered that we could safely leave our dinghy there. We tied up and then set off along a concrete pathway. 

This pathway led through the village, up a very steep hill and then down into a valley of small farms. Now the land isn’t cleared for farming, but the bananas, cacoa, cassava, and other farmed plants are kept in their natural setting.

It was a very lush, green, and beautiful walk along this pathway. Occasionally there were small bridges where streams flowed beneath, and the pathway was quite slick with moss, but without that pathway we were sure it would be deep mud. 

Towards the end of the pathway we could see the beach in the distance, we passed through another small settlement and under some coconut palms to the beach. 

And what a beach it was!

It was/is a wild, huge, magnificent beach. The sea rolled in and huge waves crashed, we walked the beach towards firstly one direction to the very end. And then we walked the beach along the other direction, sometimes in the shade of coconut palms or the hillside.

We had one fellow join us as we walked, he chatted to John. Explaining that if we continued onward we would get to the next settlement. We passed small rivers that ran across the beach and into the sea.

Children were fishing in one of the small rivers, proudly displaying the small fish they had caught. Reaching the bend in the beach we could see it continued again into the distance, but we needed to return so we left that stretch for next time.

We walked back and met the young man John had spoken to at the dock. He walked back with us chatting with John.

At the dock were 3 children with huge bundles of bananas, they needed a ride down the bay to another settlement and were awaiting a water taxi. It was quite unbelievable that they had carried those bundles of bananas.

Back we traveled the next day 25 miles to the Red Frog anchorage for the night. And then back into the marina for just under a week. When there an absolutely massive super yacht entered. Its name is Dragonfly,

the owner according to Google is the founder of Alphabet, the co- founder of Google and the 10 richest man in the world. 

At Red Frog this time we spent a few days catching up, laundry, provisioning, had a walk, attended yoga and next we knew we were heading back out. 

1st stop was the south-side of Isla Solarte.

We anchored in two different anchorages, both off mangrove cays. Both anchorages were very peaceful. We explored in the dinghy, going in and out of mangroves bays and around mangrove cays. There were few settlements and just a few expat homes, not really much happening.

We didn’t find any landing areas to get ashore and go for a walk. 

Our 2nd stop was: Saigon Bay.

Here we used the grocery store dock so we could again stock up on provisions. And we walked into Bocas to recharge our phones. Nothing exciting.

3rd stop was: The shoreline near Starfish beach

Again a very pleasant anchorage, this time not surrounded by mangroves, but with the mainland mountains in the distance. We went in the dinghy to explore the shoreline and then along to Starfish beach. 

As it’s name implies there are many starfish in the water at Starfish beach, but it is also a lovely palm tree lined beach where many come to relax and there are plenty of food concessions to be found. We had previously visited, but got there on an ATV we rented. It is a very lovely location.

4th stop, Red Frog Marina again

The weather was predicted to be a little nasty for a few days so we decided to head back to Red Frog for a week or so. Getting back to the marina we were able to enjoy the regular walks.

Sloth hunting, which we are quite inept at now. Bird watching, which depends on how well hidden the birds are at the time.

Monkey spotting had been going well with them showing themselves to us on a daily basis. And seeing Red Frogs, I was happy to see one croaking!

With the windier weather came much bigger seas. The seas were roaring, rolling in at 10 – 12 foot, and at high tide rolling right up to the treelined. In the summer months it had been hard to believe that the massive Red Frog beach could be covered by the waves rolling up it. It is of course quite spectacular watching these huge waves.

One lunchtime we went to Palmar as John needed the fish of the day.

Afterwards, we happened to be on the beach when a kite surfer was setting up. I could not believe he was attempting to kite surf in the waves that were hammering the beach. We stopped to watch, seeing us,

he asked John for help to launch his kite. And sure enough off he went. In the time we watched he managed to surf the length of the beach a few times, but it wasn’t a smooth ride.

It has been a wonderful January. We’ve enjoyed everyday together, and we are blessed with the life we live on Aeeshah.

“When we’re infused with either enthusiasm or awe or fondness … it changes what we see. It changes what we remember.” —  Rob Legato

 

 

 

PHOTO LINK—>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cf9dLVHiemebZxGr6

 

Christmas Eve:

Was the day after Gavin and family left. La Rosa was had a wonderful Christmas dinner which we throughly enjoyed. La Rosa is one of the Red Frog restaurants situated right above the beach.

It is a beautiful setting. The place was full for dinner. We selected the traditional turkey dinner, and what a wonderful meal! The stuffing was amazing, full of nuts and grains. Sangria was served with dinner and the dessert was Christmas cake and Egg Nog!

We really enjoyed the band that was playing, a family whose music was rhythmic with Spanish vocals. 

Bonfire at Red Frog:

We had a quiet Christmas morning followed by a lovely walk.

That evening we went to a bonfire we had been invited to attend. It was held at the side of the Red Frog beach where looking out at sunset was just lovely.

There were a few other cruisers, but mainly residents of the villas were there. All folks we had met during the last few months. It was a very nice evening. We shared nibbles, had a few drinks, chatted and enjoyed each other’s company.

A lovely way to end Christmas.

 

Walks and sights we see:

On one of our daily walks we were at the end of Red Frog beach when a couple from Holland started talking to us. They were going to attempt to continue the walk and try to get to Wizard Beach.

We decided to tag along and see what the path was like and how far we could get. The problem was we were both in flip flops and the path is reputed to be very muddy and rough.

We didn’t get far before I slipped and nearly planted myself in the mud which made me take off my flip flops and walk it bare footed. Continuing we then came to an area which required walking in the sea. I was not about to attempt that bare footed and so we gave up, but promised our selves to go another day when it was low tide, drier and with proper foot attire. 

During several of walks we came across troops of monkeys. There were quite a few of them, plus mothers with babies. We watched them and they watched us. One baby was very adventurous and came quite close to check us out.

The mother was not happy and soon followed to gather him up onto her back.

We have also become very good at sloth spotting, seeing several on most walks.

Seeing them is a daily occurrence. Still spotting birds is a challenge. However we see loads of beautiful butterflies.

 

Wizard Beach and on to Old Bank:

So, about 4 days after our first venture towards Wizard beach, on the eve of NeYear’s Eve we headed off again towards Wizard Beach. This time we equipped ourselves with walking sticks, water 1st aid and snacks and headed into the wooded area behind Red Frog Beach at the north west end.

The pathway was somewhat drier, but still quite muddy and slippery. Unfortunately, just as we were under the trees it started to drizzle. The bonus was the rain kept us cool. It was not as difficult as we had thought to get to Wizard Beach. It took about an hour along a path that was at times, uphill, downhill, with deep mud, along a beach, over rocks and fallen trees, but quite passable.

Wizard Beach was quite spectacular, even in the rain.

There were a few other adventurous folks there, but they were all much younger than us. We walked the entire length of the beach. It is much wider and longer than Red Frog beach, plus the surf is wilder.

We found what we thought was the pathway to Old Bank, and set off down it. Again this pathway was under the cover of trees, then through boggy, muddy, slippery, mucky areas where one had to tread very carefully.

Next there was a few steep, muddy uphill stretches and we came to cleared areas where there were large fields with cattle, plus what looked like farm huts.

Lovely lush fields were on either side of us as the path followed the ridge-line.

There were cattle grazing in the pastures, small farm huts in the shade of trees, hammocks strung, chatter from some cottages, we were emerging from the slippery, muddy, slopes.

We were both quite surprised by the way the island changed. When looking from the seaward side one would never imagine what the center was like.

Eventually we emerged into Old Bank, passing several homes along a pathway we joined the sidewalk that led us into Old Bank.

Old Bank is so wonderfully colorful. It is where the Afro-Carib population lives. Many ended up here generations ago during the old banana plantation days of American Fruit Company. Their culture and language are still Caribbean Island, lively, colorful, and bold. 

We returned to the same restaurant as our previous visit and again had a great fish and chip lunch. After lunch we walked the sidewalk to the other end of town. Passing many homes where children played and ladies were busy with laundry or such.

Again just so very colorful.

New Year’s Fireworks:

After much thought about whether I was able, or capable, of staying awake?? I suggested to John we get a hotel room in Bocas town for New Years night. He thought it was a great idea, Vista Mar was booked the day before New Year.

There were two reasons for going into Bocas town for New Years, the 1st was restaurant Omm and the second was Chinese fireworks.

We arrived at Vista Mar around 3:00pm, finding our room to have a terrific little porch to sit out on with view out over the north anchorage. In the evening we walked to Omm. This is an Indian restaurant that serves great tasting curries, proper Indian ones.

There we enjoyed a very nice dinner of chicken Tikka Masala, samosas and garlic nan together.

After which we sauntered back to our room….the town didn’t look any closer to a major fireworks display than it did earlier. By then I only had 3 hours to stay awake…..well that 3 hours passed dreadfully slow. I played games on my phone, something I rarely do, but it kept me awake.

Finally it was time to head into town to see the famed fireworks. Surprisingly still shops were open, and the only difference was there were lots of people about, but no barriers, yes a few police at the end of the main road, but not really any semblance of a fireworks about to begin. We made our way up to the area where the bigger grocery stores were located.

There we could see something being set up in the middle of the street. It looked like a long swirling red cable, or a fat red snake that swirled along the road for a few hundred feet. There was definitely an air of expectation felt from the crowd that had now gathered on either side of the road, when from the far end the snake had been lit and began to explode as it ran along. By the time the explosions got to the end where we were the sound was deafening, so bad it made me feel dizzy! Sickerly loud!

It stopped and then the fireworks erupted from the middle of the street. Massive explosions, rockets shooting into the air. There were 3 main locations outside the 3 bigger grocery stores. One display would last for 10 minutes or so then another, and another and so on it went for over an hour.

The smoke was all around, the ash fell all over, this was a fireworks display like no other. The story is that the grocery stores compete each New Year for the best display. It’s a matter of pride, so cost is not spared. The fireworks are imported directly from China and set up as only they know how.

Returning to Red Frog Marina the next day, as we walked through town we saw the empty fireworks boxes. Piles of them in front of the Supermarkets. John, being curious, lifted one and found they are heavy, and must be weighted at the bottom. Guessing this is what stops them from falling when fired….

And of course we had just wonderful New Year blue skies.

Promise yourself to be so strong that nothing can disturb your peace of mind.                                                                

Look at the sunny side of everything and make your optimism come true.                                                               

Think only of the best, work only for the best, and expect only the best.                                                                       

Forget mistakes of the past and press on to the greater achievements of the future.                                                      

Give so much time to the improvement of yourself that you have no time to criticize others.                                                     

Live in the faith that the whole world is on your side so long as you are true to the best that is in you.  Christian Larson

 

 

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Chico woes:

Our Chico was feeling poorly, just not really eating, he hadn’t passed a bowel movement in over a day, he was not running about at all, just not himself. Naturally I was just terribly worried about him. We were about to take him into the vet when we were told that Dr Gloria was coming to the marina to visit all of the dogs. This was wonderful, we went and waited in the laundry/lounge/shower area.

Dr. Gloria checked him, squeezed him and was very concerned. As he is so big she was worried it could be his liver, or his kidneys or a blockage. She injected him with antibiotics and pain medication.

We were instructed to give him laxatives, watch him closely and if nothing passed and there was no improvement then to take him into her on Monday. 

Monday came and despite doing everything we were instructed to Chico was still not well. Into Bocas we went on a water taxi, next a taxi ride to Dr Gloria’s. There she found he was terribly dehydrated and Chico was put on a drip for hydration. Plus he had blood taken to check his health. After a few hours of waiting we were told, his blood work was good, his major organs were therefore working fine, phew! Next step was an enema. We were to leave him and return before 5:00pm for the results. Naturally it was not a good day we were just so worried….. Finally we received the results and John brought Chico home. What was it?

Well, he was plugged up with grass, a whole mess of grass. Why? Well, sometime before when we were at Catamaran Marina he was know to chew grass. So as we had been at anchor for some months and in areas where grass is scarce, I had started to pick him handfuls whenever we went for a walk. He was just so happy to burry him face in the grass and chew on it, I got in the habit of having a vase of it by the sink in the galley. Apparently, Chico had over eaten the grass, which apparently was very course, therefore causing this huge plug. Dr. Gloria said no more grass!!

At Red Frog Marina

Being back in the marina meant walks everyday and many sightings of sloths and monkeys too. Red Frog marina and surrounding area is just wonderful for daily hikes. 

Family visiting

We were waiting with anticipation the arrival of our son Gavin, his wife Katie and our lovely Granddaughters, Lily and Evie. We had been asked to make many plans as they love being active. The girls don’t do boredom….

The arrival day: 

Out to the Red Frog Resort and Marina reception dock we went to meet the arrival of their water taxi from Isla Colon. Gavin and family had flown into Panama the day before, overnighted in Panama City and then got the Copa flight to Bocas Del Torro. The flight itself is quite thrilling as the plane is a small prop job.

Off the panga they all came, hugs all around and then into reception. There they check into their Jungle Lodge and received their complimentary fruit drink.

John and I had rented a golf cart for 24 hours so we could carry the supplies up the hill to their lodging, plus to be able top show them around. The girls thought that this golf cart was our car! The Jungle Lodge was near the top of the main steep hill. A very nice three bedroom place with 3 floors, full kitchen lounge and lovely view.

Katie stayed and unpacked getting everything organized. We all went for a small tour around the lanes, passing the villas and down hill to the Point end of the Red Frog beach. As usual the beach looked wonderful and when leaving we showed them their 1st sloth.

The girls were very impressed. On a little further and Gavin said “Hey Dad stop!” He had spotted monkeys. There were indeed a small troop of monkeys, the White Faced Capuchin. We all were thrilled to see the monkeys, especially as they had only been at Red Frog but an hour. The girls were amazed to watch the monkeys swinging and leaping tree to tree then across the road where we were watching.

Next stop was the marina and Aeeshah to see our home and to meet Chico. Again, Lily and Evie were totally intrigued by what they saw, just amazed that we did actually live on a boat. Also to see that there were many others living on sailboats, even families.

The final stop for the day for us all, including Katie was the Palmar restaurant at red Frog beach. Here we had drinks and a delicious dinner. The girls happily played on the swings or along the beach area near where we sat for the evening.

Off to Nivida Bat Cave and lunch at Old Bank:

Lonely Planet describes this cave tour as: “One of Bastimentos’ most fascinating natural wonders, Nivida is a massive cavern with swarms of nectar bats and a subterranean lake. The cave lies within the borders of the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos and half the fun is getting here”

We were picked up at the Red Frog reception dock by our panga driver along with his son. A fellow called Jim joining our family group for the outing. And off we zoomed towards our destination. Just past the Red Frog anchorage we spotted dolphin splashing and playing. Our driver slowly approached and the dolphin put on quite the display.

The dolphins frolicked in the water at the bow of the panga delighting Evie and Lily. The driver then sped up and the dolphin chased us around and around in circles leaping, racing and splashing in the wake from the boat. Literally racing in the wake, we all were totally entertained. And then they were gone and off we zoomed over to the well hidden entrance that was to lead us to Nivida bat Cave. 

This journey along the canal in the mangroves really was wonderful, the reflections amazing! I for one just love reflections. Along and along we very slowly cruised, until amazingly Lily spotted a sloth hanging right next to us over the water.

And it was a mother sloth with a little baby hanging onto her. She sipped water and then slowly climbed back up the mangrove stem she hung from. Well spotted Lily! Along and along we slowly putted until we came to a rough looking landing spot. There we climbed ashore and headed to a local’s home.

There we met our guide, changed into suitable shoes and water gear because, yes, we were going to get wet in the cave! There were adorable kittens playing in the muddy yard, chickens running around and a very rural home.

However Lily and Evie never questioned the circumstances, they simply enjoyed a hammock that was hanging at the side of this scene….it showed the adaptability of the children. 

Off we hiked down a trail through the trees and jungle on a muddy path. Now to start with both girls were concerned with the mud, and getting the yucky mud on themselves. However this soon changed and the mud became fun!

I know Gavin was amazed by the size of the trees and the abundance of the varieties of plants. The pure beauty of the jungle always amazes me.

Reaching the cave we were given a headlamp and were able to put any necessary items in a dry bag, before heading down into the depths of the cave. 

Right after entering one can see the bats by the hundreds hanging above. As we moved along there were some bats flying above us having been disturbed by the headlamps. We carefully walked in water along a narrow tunnel that was just over our heads too. There were limestone formations and gleaming rocks, we all had to feel our way with careful steps as the ground was very uneven.

The girls did remarkably well, needing some assistance, but totally entertained by this new environment. Katie did tell me she was somewhat scared, well terrified, but she swallowed her fear and continued underground.

We reach an area which was a natural swimming pool with a waterfall at the end where we could swim across the pool to stand under the waterfall.

And, yes, everyone swam across to the waterfall. The water was very chilly from being underground, I believe everyone was quite chilled, Evie was even a shade of blue.

On our way out we found that one of the dogs had followed us underground, and we found many hidden large spiders clinging to the sides. The girls were not phased by the spiders, just intrigued.

Carefully we climbed back out, and made our way back to the base. On the way back Lily and Evie delighted in getting muddy, slipping and sliding in the muddy areas, really enjoying getting totally muddy!

Back at the base we hosed off our muddy feet, dried off, and put on dry clothes.

I had thought we could buy lunch from the locals, but was told not that day. So our driver and his son said they could take us somewhere for lunch.

We all clambered back into our panga and off we cruised enjoying the mangrove reflections back to the open water.

We were taken to Old Bank for lunch. Old Bank is the little town at the northern end of Bastimentos. Locals refer to Old Bank simply as Bastimentos. Most of the town’s residents are West Indian descendants and many speak Guari-Guari, a local language that mixes English, Creole and Spanish. Guari-Guari is fascinating to hear but almost impossible to understand, even though it’s a derivative of English…. It’s actually a bit similar to the Bermudian accent.

Here we had lunch at the most delightful restaurant. It was colourful, airy and looked right over the harbour.

After ordering we went for a stroll around the surrounding area, which was primarily along a sidewalk. Old Bank is wonderfully colourful, full of character, quaint with odd quirks of individualism.

Lunch for me was fish and chips and it was very satisfying, I totally enjoyed the food. 

Back to Red Frog arriving in the mid afternoon, we were able to use the golf cart to take everyone back up the hill to their jungle lodge. Just before leaving I spotted one of the huge yellow crickets. The girls were fascinated by such a big bug.

Walk to Polo beach; Red Frog beach

We decided to enjoy the beaches and area around Red Frog therefor we set off mid-morning with snorkel gear, swim suits etc for Polo beach. Polo beach has relatively calmer waters and is supposed to be ok snorkeling. Gavin was keen to snorkel and see what is was like compared to Bermuda. 

It’s a nice walk getting there, quite scenic, unfortunately the sun hidden behind cloud. However for the sake of girls it was good it wasn’t a really sunny day.

At Polo Papa and the girls enjoyed the shallow waters while gavin and Katie went for a snorkel. After a while Katie climbed out of the water saying she found the current too strong and asking me if I had seen Gavin.

I said I had last seen him heading along towards the distant mushroom rocks. Well, we all looked for his head in the surf, but to no avail, he was out of sight. I stayed with the stuff while they walked down the beach aways where they finally found him climbing out of the water. He had been swept along in the current and instead of trying to fight it he went with it as far as the mushroom rocks and then headed ashore. 

Gavin, Katie and myself then went for a stroll along the pathway under the trees to the next beach while Papa and the girls splashed about in the shallows.

As it was past lunch time we headed off to Red frog beach and Nacho Mommas for lunch. It’s about a 30 minute walk and everyone was quite happy to arrive and relax in the beach chairs with a cold drink and the wonderful tacos.

Meanwhile the girls were again off to enjoy the surf. Papa and Gavin were quite happy to go and play in the surf too. This beach is more a surfer’s beach.

Gavin was very keen to get Lily and Evie adept in the surf so they get to enjoy body surfing. And, really after the couple of hours they spent in the surf they became quite comfortable with the waves crashing and the surfs constant movement. 

 

Aeeshah day out

Again there was an overcast day, but the decision was made to take Aeeshah out regardless. John and I readied her, Katie, Gavin and the girls arrived and off we went. 

I guess we did about an hours cruise, across the Red frog anchorage, down the canal through the mangrove islets around and back, anchoring in the Red Frog Anchorage. 

There we all enjoyed a swim. The girls jumping off  Aeeshah and the dinghy. Gavin took Katie and the girls for a cruise around the mangroves passed the local village.

Next was a barbecued hot-dog lunch, plus water melon. The girls enjoyed looking around our boat home. They were still fascinated by how we live on a boat. Meanwhile Chico laid low, not being used to children he finds them a bit scary. 

The highlight I think was when Papa took the Lily and Evie starfish hunting. And they found 10 starfish. Here in Bocas the very large starfish are quite common. They live in the shallows. Of course John also took the girls on a spin about the anchorage too.

We decided to leave Aeeshah at anchor as we needed a few hours to set her up dockside.

Visit Up the Hill chocolate farm:

Their description: “Welcome to Up in the Hill! We are a family-owned organic chocolate farm and Eco lodge located on Isla Bastimentos in Bocas del Toro, Panama. We started our farm in 2002, and since then we have grown into a fully functioning permaculture farm, producing cacao, chocolate, coconut oil, fruits, herbs and coffee, to name a few. With the production of our farm’s natural resources came the making of our own line of 100% natural body products and also our delicious farm to table coffee shop menu.” 

Another over cast day, but we all set out to have fun. Arriving at Old Bank we followed the sign, up the hill on a pathway to our destination. I guess we walked uphill and across the hilltop under trees, passing homes and gardens for about 20 minutes until we came to a gate welcoming us to Up the Hill. Once there we found a very rustic setting under shady trees. We were welcomed by Javier and his wife while we awaited the arrival of 2 other guests for the tour. 

The tour itself was wonderful. We followed pathways, downhill, over streams, uphill, under trees, ferns and through the farm which is set within a natural setting in that all plants, insects and animals are welcome. Everything is left to coexist, thus there are no chemicals or artificial means used. 

We learnt about 2 differing types of bamboo and their uses, coconuts and their palms, cassava, the calabash, Mayan spinach, various ginger and turmeric plants and roots, differing bananas, orchids, berries, Jack-fruit, seeds, flowers, plants, trees and more.

We tasted, felt and enjoyed an abundance of smells and tastes. We saw a tiny boa that one of the family’s sons brought from the chicken house to show us. We were shown many differing tiny frogs, some the red frog others pale yellow and others greens.

And of course we were shown the cacoa plants, the pods and even the flowers. All of which contribute to the making of chocolate. We were also proudly shown the farm’s coffee plants which took many years of trial and error to grow and perfect.

Evie and Lily were happy to spend a few minutes jumping on the family’s trampoline! 

Then it was time for our lunch and what an amazing lunch. It comprised of many of the plants we had seen. Mayan spinach, coconut in a soup, bananas with chocolate, bananas dried, Cassava strips and just so much more.

All very delicious. Meanwhile we were given a demonstration of the cacoa process by Javier. He also gave us a taste test, 1st we had a taste of a very, very, sour lemon/orange.

Then we waited a minute and popped a red berry into our mouths and chewed, following with the same lemon/orange. The difference was extraordinary! The same very sour lemon/orange was now amazingly sweet.

Why? The berry was Stevia. Lily and Evie were most impressed and gobbled the sour lemons/oranges as the taste was wonderful!

It was time to leave so back down the hill we went, the girls enjoying the muddy paths, so different from their 1st encounter with muck mud.

Dolphins; Zappordillas, Coral cay

We ended up doing our trip on a day that was forecast to be sunny, but was yet again overcast. However on reflection it was just as well as Im sure the girls and Katie would have been burnt. 

The park is described as: “two islands, ringed by golden sand beaches and coral reefs teeming with life, fall inside of the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park. Its famous crystalline waters and golden sands are ideal for snorkeling and diving during the right months. Otherwise, the water may be a bit cloudy and has a current on the seaside. These islands are also essential ecological sites for the critically endangered Hawksbill sea turtles that nest on their shores.”

We were taken from the Red Frog dock, the 1st stop being to watch the dolphins in the same area we had previously watched them. I guess the dolphins understand they need to show off for the tour boats as sure enough the dove, jumped and splashed around us.

Next was a brief stop at Coral cay to arrange our lunch and then off to the Zappordillas. The crossing was a bit rough as the surf was up, but we still flew across the waves out 20 or so minutes to the islets. They are indeed surrounded by sand and palm trees. Evie was in the water before anyone even realized, so after a false start we set off to find a good swim area for us.

We followed an inland pathway to the end of the the island and found the beach all but deserted. This end faced the other island with reef in-between. The surf was quite rough between the islands, but where we set up it was just a nice surf coming ashore.

We all swam, the girls agin really enjoying the surf. We ate sandwiches we had brought,

swam some more and then headed back to the pick up point/dock. The island itself is very much a tropical isle with coconut palm trees, hermit crabs and white sand, but it is also well used.

After leaving we went back to Coral cay to the restaurant where the girls enjoyed a frozen fruit drink and the hammocks. The next stop was to snorkel at Coral cay reefs. Gavin, Katie and the girls went in. They weren’t in for long as they found there to be a strong current running, plus the water was murky as if from coral spawn and the reef was nothing special. Gavin said it was very different from Bermuda reef, nice but not spectacular.

Bocas Town, final surf time

Our next and final family day was spent by a taking a panga ride into Bocas town.

John and I had a few things to pick up and they wanted to have a look around. We had a pleasant lunch of sushi as Lily and Evie love sushi.

Then back to Red Frog we went – they all went zip-lining while we returned Aeeshah to the dockside.

Our last evening was very nice. We went to Palmar for dinner and Gavin, John and the girls went swimming in the surf.

The girls just adore the surf now!  

I asked Gavin, Katie and the girls for a “review”and was pleased by what I was sent:

Hi Ma,

We all had a great time and enjoyed the range of activities. The girls loved all of the wildlife and adventure. They need to be kept busy and there was never a dull moment. It was also very educational for them to see different cultures, creatures and habitats. We got very lucky spotting some of the animals and insects. 

I think the most exhilarating moment for everyone was the bat cave. The numerous beaches were also a hit and I was very proud of how well the girls  handled the surf. My favorite activity was the cocoa farm, it was very interesting and even though a bit much for the girls I think they too enjoyed the different plants and fruits. 

Lastly the people of Panama were wonderful. I was surprised by the different towns, cultures and background of each group of people and how they existed separately but also functioned well together. 

“Love grows by giving. The love we give away is the only love we keep. The only way to retain love is to give it away.”  Elbert Hubbard

“The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. Eleanor Roosevelt

 

PHOTO ALBUM ->> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FF82nsrvDQMoNH5S6

Thanks!

For all the rain, but really we have had enough now. The area had been suffering from a terrible drought. There was no water in the town, laundry couldn’t be done, the locals were protesting, a state of emergency was declared for the region and huge water trucks were sent in to deliver water.

And then it rained, and rained, and rained. We felt overjoyed to start with, our laundry went in to be done, we filled our tanks with rain water instead of using the water maker, everyone was relieved. But now it has been two weeks of rain and really enough is enough. 

Then, finally the sun peeked out. 1st for a few hours and then for a near full day. By this time we were back at the Red Frog anchorage and so took full advantage of the weather.

We walked to the beach, seeing sloths along the way. We strolled the beach and had a wonderful lunch at Macho Mommas. Their fish tacos are just amazing, John goes for the fish and chips.

After lunch we took the trail back to the look out area at the end of the beach

and enjoyed watching the surge crashing on the rocks. On our way back we spotted the Red Frogs and sloth.

Flat batteries 

Meanwhile, our batteries arrived from Panama City. The old ones were nearly 5 years old when they started to fade and before long they faded and died. It meant we were using the generator for hours in the morning and hours in the evening. Plus with the lack of sunshine, due to all the cloudy rainy days the solar array just wasn’t doing it.

We arranged to have Bocas Marine bring them in. John was really happy, he got them installed in a few hours and voila!! Lots of power, plus staying power as they are new. 

Dead Fridge = big inconvenience

Coincidentally our fridge was unable to maintain power. John was sure it was connected to the batteries, then he decided it was fuses that needed replacing and then it too died. That was a sad day when our fridge died, as the freezer was full of food too.

We were then reliant on bags of ice to try to keep everything chilled, needless to say that barely works. This also meant we had to be anchored near the town, which is far from ideal. The refrigeration fellow was busy, we waited a week for him to get back to us and come, but didn’t even hear back from him. Finally, just as we were giving up and had ordered a new fridge, we heard back from him. He had a second hand circuit board which should work in the fridge.

The next day we finally met up in Bocas town, got the part, John carefully installed it and, YES! The fridge started and has continued to work. 

Anchored off Bocas town

All this time we were anchored in the Bocas town south anchorage. This is not a good anchorage, the holding is poor and the water taxis zoom right through, usually 4 of them just before and just after the hour. But, we needed to be near our ice source and close to town for the repair man. However on the plus side there were lovely views across the bay towards the mountains.

Beautiful sunsets, bright early mornings, cloud displays in the distant mountains and approaching weather to watch. 

What else to do around Bocas town?

Most, if not everyday, we did a walk around the town, seeing what there was new or happening up and down the streets. One day we stopped and watched the ferry loading up.

There are no roads or bridges here from the mainland, everything and person arrives by water, (or some, not many, by air). The ferries are quite large and carry, people, livestock, foods, delivery trucks, tankers, container trucks, basically everything.

The container trucks and such have very little room to maneuver when going back aboard the ferry. We spent about half an hour, hanging out with some local men, watching the ferry reload, a bit like a game of Tetris.

Chico 

One of the days we took Chico ashore in his carrier and set off to the local vet. Dr. Gloria was very young and knowledgeable. She gave Chico his shots without too much trouble and then strongly recommended he go on a diet for obese cats. He’s in danger of many health issues, diabetes, bone issues, joint issues, liver problems…….

Of course I said YES! It’s a special formula, plus a liquid medication. He is only allowed 70g of food a day. We bought a little scale to get the amount right and so far he seems happy and healthy enough. Hopefully this time we see some results, cause at 24lbs he really is too heavy.

Red Frog anchorage

Being back in the Red Frog anchorage, life is once again peaceful.

The local empanada girl comes by around 7:30am to sell us pollo empanadas, which we have for lunch. The holding is great, hardly a water taxi do we see,

there’s a lovely breeze, life is back to normal. 

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM –>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/GyF8rA1HvrYhXBAA9

John and I continued to enjoy our walks around Red Frog. We both love walking the Red Frog beach especially in the early morning as there are so few folks about.

The lane to Polo Beach had been blocked off, supposedly to stop golf carts, but we just walked through the mud and onward to the beach.

We ventured as far as Polo Beach and even met Polo. The walk was quite warm, as normal, but we cooled off with a refreshing swim once at the far end of Polo Beach. It was lovely, not a soul about and the scenery is always amazing.

Lunches were enjoyed at Macho Mamas, after a walk along the beach.

Many other times climbing to the heights of Red Frog via the pathways, its lovely and shaded and never anyone about.

A treat is spying a large troop of monkeys. We still find it challenging spotting sloths in the trees. The yellow grasshoppers are fewer now, all these kept us busy on our daily morning walks.

At anchor

However the time had come to leave Red Frog Marina and head out to explore anchorages. We said our – see you laters to our marina friends and motored off to the Red Frog anchorage.

I should mention that there has been little wind in the area since we have been here, so sailing isn’t really an option, yet.

The Isla Colon anchorages

Anchoring in the south anchorage off the Bocas town meant we could stock up on essentials. However the anchorage is like a freeway of water taxis, they zoom right through the anchorage, so, we did our shopping and left the next morning. Next time we go to town we will anchor in the north anchorage.

The holding in both anchorages is not the best and as said the water taxis fly right through, even at night without any lights. These anchorages are just for getting supplies. 

Dolphin Bay, 

also known as Laguna Bocatorito is a lagoon between the Island of Cristobal and a peninsular with an irregular shape extending from mainland Panama. The lagoon extends for about 4 miles, is surrounded by mangroves which in turn, attract an abundance of small fish and crustaceans which makes it a perfect habitat for dolphins.

These dolphins are the Bottlenose variety, and are unique as they share a particular genetic trait. 

We anchored the first night at the eastern part between several mangrove cays. It was very peaceful with only a few water taxis passing, nothing like the dozens in the Bocas anchorage. And, yes, we did spot many Dolphins. 

For our next several nights we were anchored in the southern part of the huge Dolphin lagoon. On our way across we were followed by several Dolphins that played at racing Aeeshah off the bow as we motored along. 

In the anchorage it was incredibly peaceful with virtually no water traffic. The waters were normally dead calm, affording amazing reflections.

Each day we would set off to explore the shoreline. Slowly cruising in the dinghy past the small indigenous Ngabe settlements, waving to the friendly children.

Enjoying the peaceful surroundings, looking for birds, crocodiles, dolphins enjoying the scenery.

Greenacres caoco farm tour:

Near where we were anchored was the Greenacres Caoco Farm. We called the number posted and arranged a visit. It was halloween and when we arrived there were decoration hanging all around ….

The property is lovely, the gardens are beautifully kept, the forested area with the large Almendro trees was left in its natural state to encourage the growth of these majestic trees.

The owner Gary, and his helper Elmer showed us around. Gary introduced us to many edible local plants all of which tasted surprisingly good. The names of which I do not remember.

He helps the locals with sustainable local plant farming by planting and encouraging them to grow and eat the local plants and not rely on what the town stores offer for sale by way of Western foods. (That are generally not nutritious)

 Gary also has a replanting of forest trees program where he supplies the saplings of the Almendro tree to reforest where these trees have been felled. These particular trees are the main life givers of the jungle. Many, many animals, insects, and plants rely on them for homes. And as we know all life is inter connected.

Gary showed us his Caoco trees and the fruit. We sampled the pulp, plus he had us crunch the beans. Previously I had always spat the beans out, but amazingly they tasted quite nice, however I still prefer the pulp.

There are differing types of the plant which produce differing colored pods and each produces a differing flavor. He showed us that in the discarded bean pods, where there was water held due to the rain, were little green frogs hiding away. he said these ones were the same as the the red frogs, but had developed their own special color trait.

And of course there are sloths hanging from the branches of the trees.

Gary’s Cacoa bean set up is very basic. There is the drying rack where each month the newest batch of beans are set to dry in the sunshine.

There are his homemade machines all in a small shed where his entire production takes place. 

It was a lovely walk back to his home through the lush gardens.

At the house there were a selection of treats for us to sample, chocolate tea, nibs, chocolate with coconut and with a ginger peanut butter mix, plus 2 different chocolate cream rum shots to enjoy.

Gary also has a few Green parts that he has rescued. I asked to see them and so we went to where they are kept. These were babies when he found or got them. Ideally he would like to rehabilitate them to the wild.

Both John and I felt slightly buzzed from the pure chocolate, a very nice feeling. I rated the visit to Green Acres as excellent.

Celebrations in Bocas del Toro

November is full of holidays/ celebrations in Panama and especially Bocas. These are celebrations of history, heritage and independence.

The main way the locals in Bocas celebrate is by having drumming and rhythmic band competitions plus marches and Fiestas Patrias. Unfortunately the weather was uncooperative for some of these days, so we never got to see many.

However, one morning we did see the speeches at the start of a parade. Everyone was dressed up in their uniforms waiting to start. Apparently it is an honor to be part of the march, only the special are chosen or earn the privilege.

The best in the class at school, the honor students, the important are chosen, but everyone wants to so the completion is fierce all through the year. And they practice all year. The rest of the folks are spectators who stand and cheer them on. On the final day they have an epic parade, which we missed due to rain, but despite this we could hear the bands all the way from the Red Frog anchorage. 

Hiking Isla Carenero

It was my birthday and when asked what I wanted, I stated, 1stly not cooking for a whole day, and secondly a good walk somewhere new. So a plan was laid, breakfast at JJs, walk around Isla Carenero, light street food for lunch and a Mediterranean take out dinner.

Breakfast at JJs was as usual excellent! I just love their Breakfast sandwich. From there we went and caught/got a water taxi to: 

Carenero Island

Carenero Island (in Spanish: Isla Carenero) is a long and forested island located just a few hundred meters east of Isla Colón. The name of the island comes from the nautical term careening, which means to lean a ship on its side for repairing or scraping its hull.

There are no roads on the island, just tracks mainly leading from one place to the next or around the fringe of Carenero. We got a water taxi from Bocas town on Isla Colon to a dock along the south shore. And basically set off in the easterly direction.

It proved to be a lovely walk. The path runs alone the shoreline which is lined with palm trees and mainly sandy beach. The day was a bit over cast when we started and as usual we were accompanied by a couple of local dogs. 

On the inside we could see thick mangrove swampy area which also had massive trees with huge roots twisting and winding all over the swamp. I found these trees and roots quite fascinating.

Plus there were hundreds of crabs and hermit crabs scurrying along getting on with their daily business. 

Often water ways drained from the swampy inland to the beach and we climbed along logs or rustic walkways. At the eastern end there was a look out point and the option to cut the walk short by heading along a path across the swamp, we chose to carry on.

The next part of the trail along the northern shore became rougher with several slopes to scramble up, roots to climb through and cliffs to climb down, but all easily done. Still looking out across the water the views were lovely especially as the day brightened up.

Further along we passed a few newish homes obviously foreign owned as they had privacy signs, gates, fences and barbed wire. One had even tried to block the path with barbed wire and a feeble fence.

From there around to the western shore the path lead in front of pretty homes and lodges, leading all the way to the small settlement where the locals live.

We were a bit disappointed by the trash around the settlement, everywhere trash had been dropped and left.

Back along the southern shore the views were stunning as the sun was out fully from behind the clouds and the morning was now hot. We waited at the dock and got a passing water taxi back to town.

Back at the boat we were going to move to a deeper anchorage away from the town when we discovered we had lost the depth, speed and direction instruments. hummm! It had to have been the lightening the night before. Very disappointing as we had just replaced to old set with this new one. And it meant we had to return to the Red Frog anchorage where we had recorded depth soundings.

So just like that my Birthday was over. However, John has subsequently put the old electronics back in and we have our depth, wind and direction again

Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte

From the Red Frog anchorage we took the dinghy across to Hospital Point and hiked on Isla Solarte aka Nancy cay.

When we arrived we found that there is no dock just the trees at the beach to leave the dinghy tied to. Nobody was about and we found that the buildings are in a private grounds area.

Never mind we set off to find the old cemetery. This whole area was used by the United Food Company from 1899-1920 for their banana plantation workers. However a blight killed off most of the bananas they were growing and several workers died from Yellow Fever and Malaria, thus the cemetery.

After following a few different paths we found the cemetery under some very large shady trees, a lonely place indeed. We decided to continue on the same path as it headed down island and it proved to be just wonderful.

Most of the way we were accompanied by 2 sweet little dogs who found us. The path wove uphill through  forested slopes, downhill through muddy areas, past a few distant local homes where chickens ran from us.

The trees were huge, keeping us shaded the whole way. We finally reached a fork in the path both directions leading downhill towards opposite shores and decided we should head back.

We had been along this path for over an hour and really needed to get back and check our dinghy. It was just as wonderful heading back. All was fine we said goodbye to the dogs and dinghied back along the shoreline.

The shoreline was quite lovely too with shallow reefs and the forested island behind.

I really feel that for me the over all theme of this past month has been reflection, in so many aspects of the month there has been reflection, of my life, on beliefs, of others and in the daily views around me.

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM >>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/gDKqjjNfvUjrtMX18

Off to Panama City 

We had a few odds and ends to do in Panama City, plus we had missed celebrating John’s 70th Birthday so we decided to turn the trip into a road adventure.

From Bocas we flew to Albrook where we once again stayed in the Wyndham Albrook mall hotel. This hotel is attached to the enormous mall and close to Albrook airport making it really convenient. 

Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo

Our first day trip was into Panama City to Casco Antiguo, also known as Casco Viejo, this area is the fabulous old city of Panama. UNESCO has recognized the old city’s cultural and architectural importance and listed Old Town as a World Heritage Site.

A walking tour with Conrad

 I was thinking we would do a self guided walking tour. We had an online map and figured we would follow along. Our first stop was where the taxi dropped us at the:

Iglesias Casco Antiguo,

a church, which was founded in 1609 and appeared interesting to look around. The relics, statues and painting were obviously incredibly old.

After the church we were trying to find our way to the next site when an older gentleman stopped us and offered a tour. We were hesitant, but he was persistent and persuasive. So that was how we hooked up with Conrad for the morning’s street tour. He really knew his history and the stories of the city and characters that it was renowned for.

We walked onto the Iglesia de san Jose with its Golden Altar,

not solid gold but carved mahogany covered with gold leaf. Again a magnificent church.

Next stop was the Iglesia de la Company de Jesus which is essentially just ruins of what was in 1641 built as Jesuit monastery, apparently in 1767 the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the Colonies and the church was abandoned.

All along the way we walked along narrow quaint alleys and streets listening to Conrad’s stories which were interesting and numerous.

Passing various museums, churches, government buildings,

the French embassy,

along Calle 5 where venders were selling Panamanian mementos, the mollas were beautiful.

From the top of the old city walls we could gaze over the Pacific Ocean,

below us a rocky beach and various seabirds rested.

There’s a magnificent vista of the sky-scraper-pocked skyline of the modern business zone across the water.

We passed the Plaza de Francia walked along to Las Bovedas. A row of nine vaulted spaces called bóvedas, or “the vaults” these originally functioned as a Spanish dungeon and later as a jail, storehouse and offices. Conrad had gruesome stories about these vaults. 

Conrad took us into a Panamanian hat store where they made and sold these special hats. Again he had much to tell and explain to us. 

Passing by Casa Gongora, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asis which is now the Ministry for Home Affairs,

the Plaza Bolivar and Parque Bolivar, all the time dear Conrad was explaining the history and telling stories, too numerous to tell.

In the distance we could hear the rumble of thunder, it was lunch time, we could tell Conrad was tired, he didn’t want lunch with us so was paid him well, thanked him profusely and went to the restaurant he recommended.

Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum

After a wonderful lunch we visited the Museo de Canal, the Panama Canal museum. It was surprisingly large and gave the full history of the area starting way before in pre Columbian times.

The history is really, horrible, the people, the workers were not treated well, especially black folks. Overall the Americans were harsh, unfair, task masters. 

There was a section that was from National Geographic which dealt with the pollution of plastic which was horrific!

Off to El Valle de Anton

For our 2nd full day we had arranged to pick up a car at the Albrook airport for 10:00am and by 10:30 we were on the Pan-American Highway out of the city. This is the main artery from North America to Central America and Panama.

We were headed to El Valle de Anton where we had the Eclipse hotel booked. Using our Google navigator we easily exited the city, crossed the Panama Canal on the famous Panama Canal bridge

and before we knew it we were turning off onto a small country lane towards El Valle de Anton, but to me it didn’t make sense as according to my info we were still some many miles away from El Valle de Anton. Anyway we drove along the lane to check out our hotel as that’s where is was located.

Seeing the Eclipse Hotel as we passed it looked like a very nice place, but it was too early to check in so we decided to drive on towards where google maps indicated El Valle was to be found.

We followed our Google map driving guide into the mountains. The scenery was stunning driving down the increasingly narrow lane. We reached an “intersection” ….straight ahead, left or right? Our driving guide said straight ahead, so off we went.

This was a very steep lane that turned into an unpaved track, but with no room to turn, deep, ditches on either side we had to keep going, up and up, around and about sharp bends. Finally, reaching a dead end at the Laguna – Lake, oh and camping site. I jumped out to take a photo when a young couple climbed up the path from the lake.

We said hello and then John proceeded to turn the car around. That was when they called out to us…..we had a very flat front tyre. Probably from all the off road driving we had just done. The couple were from Venezuela, had relocated to Panama and were out looking at property.

He helped John with the tyre and then they drove slowly in front of us all the way down. I think they were perturbed to find 2 old, dears, out in the middle of nowhere….

We backtracked down the track and then tried the right turning. This too proved to be a dead end, just leading to farmlands. Back down again we went this time stopping at Eclipse, our hotel, to check in and leave our bags. The lady there told us where to go along the PanAmerican highway to get our punctured tyre fixed, so off we went.

By now it was well past lunch, too late for lunch we had a few tangerines. The tyre place was only a few miles down the PanAmerican highway. The tyre was fixed within 20 minutes and only cost $11.

Back to Eclipse we headed.

This hotel was miles away from where we had hoped to be, but it was just lovely. Out in the middle of nowhere, with excellent views of the Pacific ocean in the distance and mountains on the other side of the building. Plus they served great food for dinner and breakfast too.

The next morning we set off to find El Valle de Anton, guessing it must be down the left hand turning. (Of course we could have gone via the PanAmerican highway, but didn’t)

This left hand bend led up to wonderful countryside. It was absolutely beautiful with the farmland and the mountains, streams and rivers.

Yes, again the lane was narrow, with ditches on either side and very steep at times, with sharp bends, but again with very little traffic. We both thoroughly enjoyed the journey and found El Valle.

El Valle de Anton 

The town of El Valle is beautiful! It is situated in the crater of an extinct volcano, surrounded by mountains. The feel was almost alpine.

Our first stop was the butterfly farm: Butterfly Haven.

Here we took a tour, first learning all about different species of butterflies and moths. We saw the caterpillars, then the chrysalises. After which we entered the breeding and flying zone, an enclosed garden. We both loved the Owl Eyed moths.

Their markings are so realistically like an eye it’s just incredible. The Blue Morpho  butterflies are very beautiful when flying flashing their blue inner wings, but when they land their exterior wing colour is a mix of brown markings.

There were glass butterflies with clear wings, red butterflies, green ones, yellow ones, just so many different types and sizes. We both were well entertained.

I had various sites in mind for our next stops, but by sheer accident we ended up at the Piedra Pintada entrance site. This is where there is a huge rock with hieroglyphics….not knowing that this was also the trail head for the Sleeping Indian Woman hike,

La India Dormida.  

La India Dormida which translates into The Sleeping Indian Girl, is a mountain ridge that’s shaped like a sleeping woman’s body. You can easily see the resemblance when looking at it from El Valle de Anton (not so much when you’re actually on top of the mountain).

Anyway, oblivious to the distance or difficulty, off we trekked with just my camera and a bottle of water…..  I did wonder why the group of teens ahead of us had two bottles of water each with them. Seeing all these teens with their teacher escorts I was pleased that they headed off leaving the trail quiet and empty for us. However we came across them at the large rock, Piedra Pintada and figured we would go a bit further and see the famous rock when we returned. 

Up and up we hiked and climbed, the pathway was very slippery at times as small streams crossed it. We passed many lovely waterfalls, everything was millions of tones of green. The group of teens and their teachers passed us hurrying up the trail. …

Still the trail continued, steeper with boulders to climb over and slippery mud. Up and up we followed, we caught up with one of the teachers and a few of the slower students, so we ended up chatting and hiking together for aways.

The few folks coming down kept telling us how much further we had, 45 minutes at least, oh half an hour. Finally we came to a vista where we could see just how high we had climbed. Like WOW! The view was wonderful,

John asked me if I wanted to head down, “hell no!” Not after investing all that energy I wanted to reach the top. So on I slogged, John found it easier, my thighs were in pain with all the steep climbing. Plus I was wondering how the heck I was gonna get down?? 

Finally, we broke out of the trees and onto the ridge line, what a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.

The path then followed the ridge line, it was still a bit steep with sheer drop offs, but we could see ahead and around us.

We followed the rocky ridge line path all the way to the top of the Sleeping Indian Woman. And what a magnificent view! It was magic!

We enjoyed the top peak.

Admiring the views, looking across the valley.

Seeing all the mountains around us, cooling off in the breeze.

It was then time we headed down as we could see the clouds heading in across the valley.

The downward trek was tough! I had to be very careful not to slip and fall, but again the scenery was magical. The rain did arrive, but this just made the greens greener.

The school group bombed ahead so John and I had the pathway to ourselves. It was one of the best hikes ever!

And when we came across the large rock, Piedra Pintada nobody was there so we enjoyed it by ourselves.

Piedra Pintada is a giant rock, the largest of the petroglyphs and sculptures found in the Anton Valley dating back to pre-Columbian times, possibly about 8,000 years ago. 

So…2 and 1/2 hours after we started we emerged from the starting point, 2:30pm.

Here is a local myth told about the Sleeping Indian Girl:

Flor del Aire was the daughter of Urraca, the most successful Chief in Panama fighting against the Conquistadores. It was her misfortune to fall in love with one of the Spanish soldiers. Yavari, one of the strongest fighters of her tribe, vied for her affection. When she did not return his love, in despair, he jumped to his death from a mountain top before the Princess’ eyes. In sorrow Princess Flor del Aire left her home and never saw the Spaniard again.
She crossed mountains and valleys bitterly weeping over her fate. Above the beaches of the Caribbean she fell dead looking back at the beloved mountains where she had been born. The mountains were so touched by this sad love story they decided to form the shape of the Princess, and that is how the India Dormida arose.

Based on Presbitero José Noto, De Historia

We drove into the town parked up and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Then off we went to visit the local market. Which we enjoyed walking around, seeing and buying fruits, and a few local crafts.

Next stop Boca Chica

Having spent 2 nights in Eclipse Hotel near El Valle we were set to drive to a hotel I had booked in Boca Chica. The main objective that day was to cover some road miles and perhaps see a Pacific beach. We drove the Pan American highway and except for turn offs for large resorts we never saw any turn offs suggesting a beach.

Plus, we realized we had many miles to cover. After the turn off towards Bocca Chica we encountered miles and miles of roadworks, plus delays.

At Bocca Chica, I was quite surprised to find that I had booked us into a home stay…..after previous experiences we normally avoid home stays.

We met the owner who was very nice, she explained that they fostered dogs and cats. At present they had 5 dogs and 5 cats living in the home. They started fostering during covid. We were given a bedroom and offered breakfast for the next morning.

So off we went to stretch our legs and look around Bocca Chica. It’s really just a very small, rural, fishing village set in an inlet behind an island. We saw the fishing boats, and walked the village’s 2 lanes, went to the local “grocery store” which was very tiny, had a lobster dinner in a nice, little restaurant, and that was Bocca Chica.

Boquete

Our next destination was the famous Boquete, we set out after a very nice breakfast that the lady of the house cooked us. The day was bright but as we drove the clouds began to set in and the drizzle began to fall. This was the beginning of the side effect from hurricane Julia that was nearing and then passing Central America. 

 

Boquete is a small town on the Caldera River, in western Panama. The surrounding Chiriquí Highlands are home to coffee plantations and the Barú Volcano National Park, to the west. Highlights in the park include the towering Barú Volcano and Los Quetzales Trail, which offers sightings of the elusive quetzal bird. North of town, the Bajo Mono Loop drive has expansive views of the forest. All of which we hoped to see, but…..

Arriving in Boquete in the rain we found a parking spot and went for lunch and a warm drink, yes it was cold! I was freezing, the temperature was now 66 degrees Fahrenheit, all I had on were shorts and a sleelessT shirt. We pulled out the fleeces, in fact I wore a sweater and a fleece, and set out to enjoy a very nice lunch. 

Our hotel in Boquette was lovely, set in the highlands around the town, with a river running right through the gardens. Our room was wonderful so we really didn’t mind spending the rest of the day hanging out in the room, keeping warm and dry. Later going for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant and having an excellent meal.

In the morning the rain was unrelenting, it was just pouring down in torrents. Oviously our plans changed, we did the best we could to see what we could in the pouring rain.

First we bought umbrellas. We took a drive around the town, drove into the mountains for a few miles, stopped at a few bridges to watch the flooding rivers.

We walked through Boquete looking at shop windows, had lunch, got quite wet and returned to our hotel room.

We awoke to a wonderful blue sky the next morning.

The drive to Changuinola

It was time to drive to Changuinola to return the car to Avis. We needed to arrive by 1:00pm and we had 208 kilometers to drive. We really didn’t have time to stop for pictures so I clicked out the window trying to get a few good shots as the passing countryside was beautiful.

The road was narrow and windy, up into the mountains, passing farmland, rivers and gorges. As we climbed the clouds were gathering in the highlands.

As we descended  the farms changed from cattle to banana plantations and we could see the Caribbean sea between the tops of the mountains. In fact the whole flavor of the country side change from mountain to Caribbean shoreline.

Once at Changuinola we returned the car, got a taxi to Almirante and then a water taxi to Isla Colon followed by another back to Red Frog Marina. It was a wonderful trip, which we intend to repeat sometime in the future.

 

PHOTO ALBUM——>>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZdRAX3FMqrtjeizR8

Bocas Del Toro again

John and I flew via Atlanta, back to Panama City. There we booked into a brilliant hotel Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall, which was attached to the Albrook Mall and next to Albrook airport, very convenient for us.

We had most of the afternoon and then the next morning to visit the mall and get a few odds and ands that we needed. This mall is huge, and contains absolutely everything one could possibly need. The best buy was some hiking sandals for us both!

The flight back to Bocas took an hour. It’s a smaller plane with only about 30 passengers.

We flew over the Panama Canal, across to the Bocas del Toro archipelago right over Red Frog beach and swooped down onto Isla Colon.

After getting our baggage we sent off down the road dragging the bags behind us, through town and to the panga dock that serves Red Frog. Within 10 minutes we were at the dock of the marina and down to our Aeeshah. Don, Pam and Chico were aboard waiting for us.

Pam and Don stayed at Selina for a few days and spent the days with us.

We enjoyed several walks around Red Frog, a great breakfast and a lunch at La Palmer by the beach. And then they were gone ……

Life has been very much back to normal for us. 

We have continued and more or less finished a few boat chores we had lined up. John had the water maker seals to redo, a new water pump to install and the engine to bleed as it was air locked and secured the new solar panels.

Me, I’ve had the sewing repairs of canvas, (yet to do), the laundry of curtains etc, the cockpit to de-mold and set up, overall boring chores. Plus I had an infected spider bite which gave me hell….

We have been walking the trails everyday, up the slopes, down the paths, along the beaches around and about. 

Blue fluorescent bees, Turquoise butterflies, huge yellowy, brown crickets

As for what we have seen, the theme this month are insects; many huge grass-hoppers are just everywhere. They are quite magnificent, intricately designed with bright yellow, green and brown bodies, but bright red wings when they fly.

Blue bees, yes bright blue bees; apparently called Mason bees buzzing around 2 particular manholes.

And turquoise butterflies swarming around fluffy white blossoms in tall trees. Brilliant Red Dragon flies

Once again the birds are wonderful, so many and such varieties. From tiny little humming birds to bigger Montezuma oropendola, which are my favorite. 

An American pygmy kingfisher that alighted on a rock right next to me.

And bigger still the Black hawks and raptures.

It seems like we see sloths so very easily now. Everyday I look up and voila there is another looking down at me. One of our 1st beach walks we saw a sloth in the trees just behind the beach.

Another time there was a sloth hanging by its 2 hind legs eating off another tree while being upside down. Then there are the sweet shy ones that just sneak a peek at us down below where they chill. 

There was one beach walk that we came across a very unusual character. He was dress just like Tarzan in a brown loin cloth, had long blond dreads and had a machete he was using to chop coconuts.

We stopped and chatted. He was breakfasting off the coconuts he had cut down, was from Bosnia and seemed to imply he lived in the wilds.

Everyday we set out wondering what we might see or who we might meet while enjoying the scenery and wonders of Red Frog.

An ATV adventure on Isla Colon.

We went for an ATV adventure on Isla Colon. We hired from a place that rents electric bikes and ATVs…. Flying Pirates.

Our venture started off following the roadway down the center of the island. The road was in a very poor state, it couldn’t have been rougher, all loose rocks, huge potholes.

We traveled through what looked like some farmland, some forested areas with small rivers and some excavated areas. Overall a pretty ride.

At the end of the track we can to the shoreline of Boca del Drago, a small settlement where we parked and set off on foot.

Following the shoreline we walked a track, here the scenery was quite lovely, palm tree lined beach.

Past a few mangrove areas where you had to get over a rickety bridge and climb around some obstacles.

After about 20 minutes you come to Starfish beach. This is a well know tourist attraction, but we were lucky in that there were few tourists that day.

At a shoreline table we ordered lunch and a pineapple fruit drink form the food huts.

The fruit drink was exquisite, just wonderful. Our lunch of fish, rice plantains and coleslaw was very good too. 

After our lunch we set off back the way we had came, along the shoreline.

Then back onto the ATV and back down the hellish road. 

As we still had time when we reach where we had started we rode passed the rental place, and onto Playa Bluff. This “road” followed the shoreline and was sandy.

At some stages we had to literally ride through the water or on the beach. The scenery was very pretty, with long beaches and tall tall coconut palms.

On return we could see and hear an approaching thunderstorm approaching. However we were back at Aeeshah before any serious rain fell. 

 

 

Photo album—>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/vxDKgHCwTYxFyCFm9

It was time to travel back to Bermuda.

A year had passed since we had been home, which was longer than usual. 

Our friends Don and Pam arrived from the Rio Dulce, to care for Aeeshah and Chico.

For the first few days after their arrival we showed them the necessary know-how’s aboard Aeeshah. Being cruisers themselves they had plenty of experience with sailboats, but all boats are different. Plus they got to reacquaint themselves with Chico and learn his preferred routine.

We rented a golf cart and toured the entire Red Frog area. Doing this we had fun exploring all the lanes and tracks around the area. The highlights being Polo beach and finding 4 sloths in one area, oh and a cavern.

Bye bye Panama hello Bermuda

Off we went, our 1st flight aboard a small plane left Bocas and took us across Panama to Albrook airport, Pamama city.

There we taxied across the city to a hotel near Tocumen International airport. The next day we flew from Tocumen to Atlanta where again we spent a night and finally the following day we flew home. 

The near month in Bermuda whizzed by

As usual we had maintenance to be seen to, part of the Airbnb to paint, repairs to be done, power washing, mending, patching, sorting, and just so much to keep us very busy. There were doctor appointments, daily John drove Chrissie to work and picked her and Quest up, so in exchange we used her car. 

Kate’s place needed a few rooms painted, and we had May during the day instead of her going to summer camp.

We did some fun things with Missy May, going to Dockyard and having ice-creams,

building and painting Blue bird boxes for our woodland reserve,

plus the usual painting and drawing. Plus there was Jesse to feed some evenings.

One late afternoon we both walked the railway trails to the stable and fed old Jesse. He’s just as lovely as always.

Fern Island camp

One of the last weekends was the Fern Island camp. This time John and I did not spend the night. We went out Thursday with Gavin, Lily, Eve and May to set up the camp.

John cutting the grass, Gavin setting up the camp, then putting up tents,

the girls playing and swimming and me watching them, making sure all is good.

Friday out we went again,

this time there were Gavin, Katie, Lily, Eve, and Amy their dog; John and I with May and Quest, plus Ruben, Chrissie’s beau. Gavin and family were there for the weekend. Meeting us there were Kate and Josh arriving on Josh’s jet-ski, plus Sean and 2 of his girls, and Cloe their dog.

We had a fun day, the children swam about 80% of the time.  The rest of the time they explored all over Fern while the dogs bombed about.

The themes this year seemed to be jumping in from atop Gavin’s flying bridge, hanging out on the rocks and paddle boarding.

The kids also conned Josh into jet ski rides.

When you are talking about 6 children that ride for 10 minutes each, that was a lot of jet ski running about. Daniel and his two girls arrived later in the afternoon, Josh decided, no more jet ski rides. 

Saturday we were back to Fern, this time Chrissie came and Daniel’ s wife Melody plus the new puppy.

At this stage there were more children and dogs than adults. Everyone had a wonderful time, the kids were nonstop action,

swimming, paddle boarding, snorkeling, jumping off where-ever while most of the adults relaxed and looked on. Except Katie who did paddle board excursions around Fern.

Quest’s 5th Birthday

Another Saturday Quest had his 5th Birthday party at Gavin’s house. Again this year it was a family affair. We were really happy to see Rhianna there as we hadn’t seen her due to her being away with her Mom.

Plus Ethan popped by in the police car, this meant that for the first time in years all 6 of our grandchildren were present at the same time. Of course I had to line them up and take photos and it was like herding cats.

Then there was a slip’n slide to ride,

the pool to swim and jump in,

lots of chatting and catching up with extended family,

hot dogs and burgers to eat, birthday cup-cakes with Beyblades being the theme.

and presents, and so much more.

What a busy afternoon!

Earl passed by

We were visited by hurricane Earl the week before we left. He actually turned into a non event. It did blow a bit and the surf was up and ploughing ashore.

John and I took a trip to the cliffs above the Warwick coves and watched the surf.

The next day at Gavin’s place we saw an enormous bolder that had been turned and shifted by the seas. The power of the ocean is awesome.

Then before we realized it was time to return to Aeeshah and Chico. 

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/oAwPiQt9gG1GjafE9

Red Frog, Bocas Del Toro, Panama

John and I have really enjoyed our time here in Red Frog Marina, Bocas Del Torro. We get out almost daily and walk or ride our bikes around the many trails and paths.

We have an uphill trek. This takes us up a steep hill, passed different villas, (homes owned by expats, but they call them villas). Under tall trees that shade the lane nicely so it’s cooler than the blazing sunshine. We scan the trees for sloths and birds. We know where one sloth lives and usually can spot him.

The birds are harder to see, we hear them all around us but so far have only easily spotted the parrots. One day we did see a whole flock of green parrots and often we see vultures swooping over the jungle. Along the top of the hills we enjoy the views.

Next we follow overgrown pathways to the bottom. And choose which way we return to the marina. 

Another trek is along the Oceanside lane which connects to a rough track behind the beaches all the way to Polo beach.

Polo beach is wonderful. Protected by reefs the waters are much calmer. The palm trees shade the beach which is normally deserted. There is a fellow who sells coconuts and coconut water to visitors from a “stand”, but we have not see him yet. 

Along Polo beach we walk and then cut onto a pathway that leads behind the beach coming out onto a lovely cove and a small lagoon. The whole area is gorgeous! 

We also ride our bikes along the seaward trails. These trails are very bumpy, not that it bothers John.

After one ride we stopped at Macho Mamas for lunch.  After a long rough bike ride we both have a good appetite. 

Going to Macho Mamas for lunch is always a treat! The tacos are the best ever.

Plus sitting looking out over the beach is always fun. 

Much of our time has been spent getting Aeeshah ready for our departure. There was the entire boat, inside and out to clean. Every cupboard, cubby, box, nook and cranny had to be cleaned, debugged, sorted and repacked.

Then the toilet plumbing acted up, that nasty task had to be seen to by John. Yep, he had to take it apart, de-bung it and put it back again. I think that was the nastiest job.

My hardest job was the cockpit. It took a full day to clean, demold and prep the cockpit. That was hot work being out in the midday heat. Meanwhile we have paper wasps that are determined to live under the solar panels attached to the arch. Chico enjoys watching them. I think he now prefers them to birds. 

We went into Bocas town several times a week to stock up on cat food and litter.

The water taxi leaves Red Frog at 10:00am and then returns at 1:00. We have now become accustom to the town and know where most things can be found. It really is a nice, quiet town, clean and artsy. 

Our friends Don and Pam arrived at Red Frog as arranged. They stayed at Selina a very nice hostel on the island, for their first few days.

We spent the time teaching them about Aeeshah and of course Chico. Plus we went and had some fun. Our first day outing with them was along the lane to the beach.

We spotted the sloth and some Red Frogs along the way. It was a drizzly day but still the scenery at the beach was outstanding.

We checked out the lookout, then walked the beach to Macho Mamas for a taco lunch. Again the fish tacos were wonderful. 

The next day we hired a golf cart and headed out to see as much as the lanes around Red Frog allowed. 

All the way up the steep hill lanes we went, stopping to check out the “villas” and the views. We all agreed that the small homes that look out over the hillside and the sea are rather tempting.

We traveled all of the hillside lanes then took a track that John had ridden, but I had never seen. This lane was narrow, winding over undulating hills through the jungle.

The trees were just amazing! The birds we could hear made screeches and calls none of us had ever heard. Halfway along we had to carefully maneuver the golf cart under a fallen tree.

Further along we stopped to look at some caves.

The colors of the caves walls with the lichen and mosses were just lovely. And hanging down from above were very dramatic vines.

At the end of the lane we found the squatters home by the beach that we had walked to from Polo beach. I was quite disturbed by a poor dog that looked like it was starved.

We headed back down the lovely lane and off towards the beach for lunch.

This day we went to the other beach restaurant, at Palmar beach lodge. Here we all enjoyed a wonderful lunch while looking out over the beach.

From lunch we rode the golf cart to Polo Beach. Described as one of the most beautiful stretches of beach on Isla Bastimentos, this secluded section of coastline is ringed by a gorgeous coral reef, keeping the water calm and providing one of the most optimal environments in Bocas del Toro for snorkeling. As is usual we were nearly the only ones enjoying Polo Beach.

It is only accessible by a jungle hike, a golf cart ride down a very rough track or direct shoreline access by boat during calmer seas. The beach gets its name from an infamous “Polo” character who left the norms of life to make this stretch of land his home for years on end.

Apparently he can still be spotted occasionally in the area. We all enjoyed a stroll along the beach and then following the jungle pathway to the very end part of Polo beach.

The beach, the sea and shoreline along with the jungle makes for stunning scenery. 

Traveling back to the marina in our golf cart we stopped to see if we could find “our” sloth, the one and only we had found. Sure enough he was there.

Then we spotted another in the same tree, a much smaller one hidden away in the tree top. One of the security staff stopped and pointed out another across the lane….then another, making a total of four. This was high excitement for us, but it became all the more interesting when, low and behold….one climbed a palm tree by the side of the lane.

Then she/he climbed out onto the fonds overhanging the lane……grasped just a tiny branch of a tree across the lane….and believe it or not crossed over to that tree, effectively crossing the lane without going on the ground.

Sloths can move moderately fast when they wish to as he/she was across within 5 minutes, and sitting in the other tree grinning down at us. It was just amazing!

I love this area of Bocas del Toro!

We also headed into the town on the water taxi to show Don and Pam where to find the odds and ends they might need. We enjoyed a stroll around the whole town.

Don loved the fire station with its old fire engine. They both agreed that the town is delightful.

And then came the next morning when we had to leave Aeeshah and Chico to travel homeward. Pam and Don, who we have known for many years were moving on to Aeeshah to boat-sit and cat-sit while we flew home. We lugged our bags to the end of the dock to get the water taxi into Bocas. They climbed aboard Aeeshah with their 2 back packs. We arrived at Isla Colon, walked through the town to the airport, dragging our bags. There we boarded our flight to Panama City.

The flight took us over the Bocas Del Toro region. Even from the air the region is lovely. 

Landing at Albrook airport we caught a taxi to a hotel near Topumen International Airport.

2 days later we were home in Bermuda.

 

“In the midst of my skeptical, cynical, often pessimistic nature exists a slender capacity to believe, if only temporarily, in a guiding, unseen power, and whenever this happens, I go with it. That’s what inspiration is. You don’t get it from the gods. You make it.”

—  Jeffrey Eugenides

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zD2A96MHxoaxwxLm9

Passage to Panama

Our first 26hrs we covered 150 miles – day and night: Friday till Saturday

2nd day, 52hrs = 300 miles – day and night Saturday till Sunday 

3rd day, Sunday at 8:30 pm we reached 355miles, we stopped at Isla de Providencia for an overnight rest. (Had to go in at dark, but we had been there before so we had the waypoints)

4th day Monday, 08:00 until Tuesday 12:00; 480 miles behind us, getting closer

5th 24 hours, Tuesday until Wednesday morning at 05:00; 560 miles covered, just a few to go.

Wednesday, June 29th at 1:30pm we finally arrived in Bocas Del Torro, Panama. It took us: 5 days to cover 600 miles.

From leaving Marathon, Florida on May 13th till arriving in Bocas Del Torro June 29th; we traveled 1600 miles; that was an incredible journey.  

We have all agreed we have travelled enough for now, we need a rest. It can be very tiring.

Overall the passage was a mixed bag filled with some heavy seas, more light seas, some lightning and thunder from the distant tropical storm, more fair conditions, the calms that follow rough, winds ranged from 0 knots to 35 knots, but mostly we enjoyed10 knots to 15 knot breezes. We sailed a good 2/3 of the passage and motor sailed the rest. The only visitor was an enormous dragonfly which hitched a ride one night. I called him dragon, his wings sounded just like we had a drone aboard in the cockpit, but honest it was a dragonfly.

We came upon fields and fields of sargasso seaweed. The weed was so deep that if the engine was running we would wait till we cleared it and we had to reverse the engine to shed our load off the prop.

We also hit what we assumed was a log one night. We were smoothly sailing along when there was a big thud. John looked out, but saw nothing as it was too dark. However as soon as we arrived and were in the dinghy we could see the damage to the bow. The bottom paint on the bow was taken off right down to the fiberglass!

We sailed into Bocas Del Toro in the late morning of an overcast day. We were in our 1st new area, region, since pre-covid, an exciting new destination with new beginnings for us. Entering slowly the scenery looked amazing. Palm lined sandy white beaches, mountains in the back ground, and mostly uninhabited.

After finally finding an anchoring spot in the north anchorage we set off ashore to check in.

Finding the authorities was fairly easy, as they are right next to the ferry stop. In Panama you 1st see the Port Captain, who was a very pleasant lady. Here the authorities fill out most of the paperwork, which was also a pleasant surprise.

 2nd was the agricultural/health person. He was mainly interested in Chico, and photographed many of Chico’s documents and passport pages. Never even asked about covid.

Then came the immirgration guy accompanied by the customs fellow. More paperwork for them and we were checked in. Lastly we applied for our cruising permit, which takes a while to be processed. 

Bocas town

It was off to explore the town and figure out where everything was located. Basically Bocas town is one wide Main Street, Calle 3RA. Parallel to it runs smaller calles and across the calles you have the avendidas. The town is definately centered around the tourist, it is colourful and at night it sounds very lively.

There are several, well many grocery stores, all are very well stocked, most food items are available. 

There’s Johnnys bakery which sells baked goods and serves other excellent foods too. We had a wonderful sandwich there, a tuna panini, which they call just a tuna sandwich. 

There several large well stocked general stores/hardware stores which means that John is extremely happy. 

And very importantly excellent fresh produce stalls or venders. 

Another very nice cafe that we found is called JJ’s at Bocas Blended. There we found we could get an excellent breakfast plus use their dock for our dinghy, buy ice and dispose of trash.

Red Frog Marina

After nearly a week we headed over to Red Frog Marina, on Isla Basimentos, where we had a booking. Neither of us had any idea what to expect.

We were given a brilliant dock space, basically nearly at the end of the furthest finger pier, in other words way out at the end.

The manager took us on a mini tour around the resort in his golf cart. The place is huge!! Lots of walking to do. Both of us were very pleasantly surprised by the whole marina, resort etc set up. It really is quite self contained. As Marina guests we have use of all the facilities at no extra cost.

There’s a good laundry, a marina grocery store, nice bathhouse, good security and everything is well maintained and clean. The staff are all friendly and helpful, the dock where we are is too far out for Chico to roam into the jungle. In other words we are very happy with Red Frog.

We have taken several walks around some of the Red Frog property and some of the lanes that meander through, around and about.

At the beaches where we have wandered we enjoyed the sound of the surf crashing, the emptiness, the open space.

The surf attracts surfers as it is long rolling waves that eventually crash ashore there. Behind the 1st beach, called Red Frog, there are 2 small restaurants that serve the Selina hostel.

We have only tried 1 of them for breakfast and a lunch, both of which were very good. Afterwards we strolled along the beach, back along the lane to the marina. 

A bit further along the lane is the Red Frog resort beach club, which we have the use of too. We haven’t been here but have walked past and it looks very nice.

Further along still, from the beach club, is another quite wild stretch of beach with lovely shady trees from the jungle that lines the shore.

Still further along the lane is another area of beach that seems to be sheltered from the surf by a reef line and small isles that run along the shoreline. Here it might be possible to snorkel.

This scenery is wild, extreme and just wonderful. We haven’t ventured further along the trail yet as usually by this time the sun is overhead and getting hotter by the minute.

The other trails lead uphill between the villas that have been built in the jungle or are being built, some sold and some for sale. Along these lanes in the trees we have seen sloths hanging.

Did you know that Panama’s jungles are home to 3 of the 6 types of sloths, one of which, the Pygmy three toed sloth, is endangered. The other two types found here are the Brown Throated sloth and Hoffman’s sloth. Here are 10 incredible facts about sloths: (some of which we were told to me by the marina manager)

1. Without sloths there would be no avocados. …
2. Sloths are three times stronger than us. …
3. They poop a third of their body weight in one go. …
4. Sloths are blind in bright daylight. …
5. They are faster in water than on land. …
6. It takes sloths 30 days to digest a leaf….
7. They can starve to death on a full stomach…
8. Sloths can fall 100 feet without being injured….
9. No-one knows how long they live for….
10. They prefer to eat the leaves of the cecropia tree aka Trumpet tree/Guarumo which is a canopy tree.

We have found that spotting sloths in the trees is really quite challenging, darn hard, as they don’t move or make any noise. 

One evening we were lucky enough to meet a sloth who was crossing the lane. Very very slowly he/she was pulling himself across to the other side. We stayed and watched, plus made sure he/she was safe.

We have also spotted Red Frogs along the damp banks of the lanes as we stroll along. They too are quite fascinating, but much easier to see. Fun facts about the Red frog: 

It is not as poisonous as some of its cousins and is not a threat to humans. 

It subsists on a diet of ants that dine on poisonous plants, providing the red frog its protective skin toxin. 

Males attract females with a loud quick chirp.  

And then there is also the vast area that surrounds Bocas.

Hundreds if not thousands of cays, isles, mangrove lagoons and bays. We have only ventured out in the dinghy once. We found it incredibly beautiful slowly putting around the waterways nearby.

We are both amazed by the area we have moved to. Everyday we have been seen such beauty.

It exceeds our expectations. And we are so very blessed to be in Bocas Del Torro.

To do the useful thing, to say the courageous thing, to contemplate the beautiful thing: that’s enough for one man’s life……TS Eliot

You cannot help but learn more as you take the world into your hands. Take it up reverently, for it is an old piece of clay, with millions of thumbprints on it…… John Updike