Aeeshah

PHOTO LINK —>> A quick visit to Curacao

We departed Bonaire and had a rolly 6-hour downwind sail to Curacao. We had left at 9am and we entering the entrance at 3:00pm.

Willemstad harbour

The entrance to Willemstad harbour is unique as it is a channel the Sint Anna Bay, which separates the Punda on one side and Otrobanda on the other side. The Sint Anna Bay, leads into the large natural harbour called the Schottegat, as well as the Scharloo and Pietermaai Smal quarters, which are across from each other on the smaller Waaigat harbour. There is a pontoon bridge at the entrance, which opens upon request. This is a huge pontoon bridge, is moved by what almost appears to be a large outboard engine.

After calling and requesting the pontoon bridge be opened we motored through and looked for customs and immigration. We had been informed by a cruising guide, which was the only info we had that in Curacao we first must check in with customs and immigration, plus get an anchoring permit by trying up at the main docks where the ships also go.

Checking in process/ordeal

So we looked and figured we would try the port authority dock 1st. No, not there, we were sent across the Chanel. We went across the Chanel and tied up to a disgusting ships dock. There we finally found immigration where we checked in. Upon leaving they mentioned that we might have to move Aeeshah as an oil tanker was arriving soon. Not seeing any oil tanker we walked along the Chanel side, as directed by the cruising guide, to the pontoon bridge, over it and down the other side to customs. There we were nearly finished when a call came in telling John he had to move the boat for this tanker. So out he goes leaving me to finish the process. I quickly followed him about 5 minutes later and had just crossed over the pontoon bridge to the other side when I saw him in Aeeshah coming down the Chanel. He signaled to me to walk along a bit where he would pick me up. John pulled in just behind the Scientologist Cruise ship: Fairwinds. This made coming along side number 3 times in an hour a record for us. John then set off up the dock to get our anchoring permit. Well it was 4:30 and they had already shut for the day.

We decided to head to Curacao Marine and go dockside for the night. Then the port authority called on VHF to tell us we had to stand by for the tanker that was approaching down the Chanel. We were directed stay along side until the all clear was given, this was a right nuisance, we wanted to get to Curacao Marine before it shut too.

So there we sat alongside the ships dock while a massive tanker pulled into customs, a great big tug pulled up right off our stern, huge freighter came down the Chanel being towed by a tug, pilot boats and tugs went by, more ships passed, on and on and not a word said to us. So we decided that would be our dock for the night. It was too late to proceed, we already had nasty black tire marks on Aeeshah’s port side and so we stayed the night on the Curacao customs dock. During the night the Scientologist cruise ship left, the cable ship left and so did the tanker. It is a very busy port. We were ready to leave dockside by 8:00am John called the Port Authority, they gave the all clear and we motored around the corner to

Curacao Marine.

We had booked a dock space for the month that we were away and they were ready for us. The dock space is not very large and we do hang off the stern and the bow does loom over the dock, but it is floating. The marina does have good wifi, security, services, excellent showers, but no laundry just a laundry service.

We deceived to hire a car so that we could get Chico to the pet hotel, “Pets and Cats”, do laundry, pick up supplies and drive to the airport. Into Willemstad we walked and hired from Budget a great car at an excellent rate.

Meanwhile Chico was being Chico the boat brat/cat. We had him harnessed and tethered to the boat but he slipped out of the harness 3 times. The second time John found it hanging off the side like he had fallen between boat and dock. Each time his slipped off we would frantically hunt for him. Each time he was on the neighbours boat checking it out like he owned the place. He wouldn’t let them pick him up to bring him back, he basically hissed at them like he was saying “Hisssofff!!! I’m doing what I want!!” They said they were fine with his antics, but by the third time we could tell it was a bit much. So he was confined down below or had to be supervised on deck. This meant I couldn’t get anything done.

So the day after we arrived Chico went with us to the pet hotel.Pets and Cats

The hotel is situated towards the other end – northern end, of the island in the middle of nowhere. We were quite hesitant as we drove through the scrub land passed dilapidated properties looking very inhospitable, then there was the place, looked nicely kept, but in the middle of the bush and cactus…….the owner Bryan greeted us and we went in the gate and WOW!! Its divided into areas for different animals. Chico is of course with the cats. Their building is a cottage it has an open wired in front garden with birdbath, tree limbs, gravel and various plants. Then in the open-faced building is a couple of rooms set up just for cats. Brightly painted boards/ladders run up and down to the ceiling where there are walkways and perches. There are toys, balls, containers for climbing in, beds, more branches to climb and a feed station. Really an excellent set up. At present there are 16 cats, but you hardly even see 6 – 8 of them as they are all tucked away on the perches, in the hides or on walkways.

I put down his cat box, opened the front, he tentatively started to climb out, some cats went to say hello, he told them to back off, but no really unfriendly hiss of cry. In fact he crept out and ended up exploring, never even bothered with us and when we left he seemed to be trying to play with one of the cats. The cats there vary from a Bengal, to a Mancoon, a water cat from Belgium and the regulars like Chico. We were happy to leave him and know he will have a fun time.

We had many chores to do before leaving; laundry alone took me half a day, as we had to find a laundry, which seems to be a rare find in Curacao. There are many dry cleaners and people seem to take their clothes there, which is very different to what we are used to. Well we tracked down a nice laundry, and got all the covers and other large boat items, bedding and clothes washed. We stocked up with all we need for our return with Ethan and Rhianna. We washed all the Bonaire dust off everywhere from rigging to decks to inside surfaces etc. We repaired, cleaned, stored and managed to get everything completed.

A quick drive around Curacao

On the Sunday before we left we took the day off and drove

to see some of the island. We found that it is an extremely dry, arid, rugged but low-lying terrain. The flora is mainly all the cactus and thorny plants one can imagine in type and size. It would be impossible to trek overland as the vegetation is formidable.

The shoreline is also formidable, rough and rocky. The few beaches we did drive to were down tracks over private property. The property owner charges a rate for you to use their access tracks. We could understand this, as there is upkeep, plus the people need some sort of income from the use of their property.

We checked out the Spanish Waters area where we will return to with the boat later in the summer. It looked very sheltered and nice.

We were both surprised by the amount of trash along the road/tracks. Many of the homes as well seemed to be drowning in mounds of trash, vehicles rusting out, appliances dumped and such. Or maybe there are many people in Curacao that are hoarders and can’t seem to get rid of anything? Maybe they do not realize how bad fit is for the environment that they depend on to treat it as a dump?

We are looking forward to visiting the ostrich farm, caves, aloe and cactus farms, the 2 national parks and all the forts and museums.

Overall Curaçao is very different from any other island we have visited. Maybe the closest to its type is Trinidad with all of the industry and oil, oh and trash. But Curacao is even more a hodge podge mix of so many cultures and types. There are over 55 different nationalities here. It is very colourful, lively, historically rich, but modern too.

We are both impressed with Willemstad, the architecture is wonderfully designed, colourfully painted. It has a wonderful market, alleyways everywhere, and very interesting shops selling everything imaginable I am looking forward to exploring when we return.

Bermuda

We arrived in Bermuda on the evening of June 2nd and then left for the UK on the 6th. Those few days back home were hectic to say the least. We had appointments of all sorts to sort out, family to visit with and just so much to try to catch up on.

Visit to the UK

PHOTO LINK–>> Visit to the UK

This visit to the UK was from the 6th to the 14th of June, but only 6 of those days were spent actually there as we had to fly via Boston, then a red eye to Heathrow going there and coming back we flew a red eye to JFK and back to Bermuda. To say it was an ordeal getting back is an understatement! JFK is a nightmare when arriving at 00:00 their time – 5:00am UK time. First we were delayed getting off the plane and then secondly faced with an hour and a half in the visitor’s line. Now that made us absolutely deadbeat and too late to go through to departures. So we had the delight of crashing out in the arrivals hall, on the hard cold floor for hours. Honestly we stretched out beside a window near the entrance along with all the other forgotten folk.

We had a lovely time in the UK. The major reason for going was John’s Dad Dick was very ill. He had fallen, hit his head and consequently suffered a bleed aka a stroke. The other reason to visit was John’s brother Alan was turning 60.

It was quite shocking at first visiting Dick as he had been so active and with it at the ripe old age of 93 and now he was bed bound, very weak, dreadfully tired, awfully skinny and quite unhappy. This was especially difficult for John, but he felt he was very Blessed to be able to visit with him. We spent time each morning and some afternoons with Dick and actually found that he was improving as each day passed. However maybe we were just adjusting to him?

Alan’s 60th Birthday was celebrated with an enjoyable evening at a Steak House. Alan’s family, wife Pat and daughter Harry were there too, plus John’s sister Lynda and her hubby Pete. It was a fun night! Just 2 of us were not yet 60 year olds.

John and I tried to have a walk each day. One day we walked in the grounds of the hotel we were staying at and along the bridle paths nearby. The hotel was called De Venues at Theobald’s Park and it was just wonderful except for the lousy wifi. It had been a stately home or estate home back in its heyday, and is now excellent accommodation. John just loved the buffet breakfast where he could get the full breakfast with large mushrooms.

Another day we went with Alan and Pat while Pat walked her Doggie Trails dogs. She runs a dog boarding and walking business and that day she had their own 2 plus 4 or 5 others. We walked around the grounds, woods and meadows of Trent Park where I used to go to college. Again it was another lovely sunny day and such a lovely walk.

London

We went into London and did urban hiking. We literally walked to as many sites as we could get to within the time we had, starting off by leaving Piccadilly heading to Charring Cross, along the River Thames all down Southside, back across the Millennium Bridge to St Paul’s Cathedral, back through Charring cross to Hyde Park, St James Park, passed the site for the Queens Birthday Parade to Buckingham Palace, where we saw Prince Charles arriving being escorted by all sorts of security.

By then it was time to head back as we were so very foot sore from pavement pounding. It had been a hot, (for England) day, very sunny and just lovely seeing all the architecture, sites and different types about.

We drove to Helen and Martins new house, (my niece and hubby), on the Friday afternoon and enjoyed seeing the countryside where they live, their lovely new house and having an excellent pub dinner too.

We managed a visit to Sean another brother and spent some time catching up one morning.

On the last day Sue and Brian, (John’s older sister and partner) drove back early from their Devon holiday to see us. This was a short visit but again excellent to get to spend time with them. It was a very enjoyable if quick visit to the UK and John is so very happy to have seen his Dad and all the rest of the family.

Chico 

We heard from Chico several times while we were away. He was having a grand time at his hotel. He had made friends, loved the toys and was getting along fantasticlly with the owner.

Bermuda again

LINK TO PHOTO ALBUM—>> Back in Bermuda

John and I had from the 15th of June until the 1st of July to complete 101 different projects back home in Bermuda. These ranged from painting the exterior of the house, to getting doctor visits for my Dad and us, to vets visits, to visiting our lawyer, to power washing …. The list seemed endless, however we really did complete nearly all the 101 tasks.

John was the main house painter. He also had some help from Ethan and then Ivan took 2 days from work too, plus Chrissie, Kate, Taze and I also pitched in at different times. It was not just a simple paint over, but the walls had to be scraped, cracks patched, dry lock applied and in areas 2 coats of blue applied. I’d say we are 80% finished and the place looks 100% better. It will be finished when we return.

My doctor appointments were multiplied when I had to undergo extra tests, but all went well and I was cleared for flight. After I arranged to return in August for more follow up testing, uck!! My Dad’s doctor appointments were a test of patience and endurance on my part. The main necessity was getting his ears cleaned and the hearing aids tuned/overhauled. This proved difficult, as he was not being cooperative, but again just before I left success was achieved and he can nearly hear …… Hurray!!

Katie had a Birthday celebration. As a family we gathered at Gavin and Katie’s place for a lovely barbecue and get together. The cake was extra special, as was made of iced donut balls from Glaze – the kids of all ages loved it.

We had a wonderful time at one of the Warwick coves one Sunday afternoon. Again we met there as a family group, had a lovely picnic lunch and enjoyed the beach, swimming in the surf and sunning on the sands. It truly is such a beautiful island home, beautiful Bermuda.

That evening we went to the Sea Breeze Restaurant at Elbow Beach with Chrissie, Ivan, Kate and Jae. There we had excellent selection of tapas and sushi and drinks overlooking another fabulous beach. It was a wonderful day and evening.

We met with friends Sue, Richard, son Mark and girlfriend Claire for an excellent curry at the best curry place ever, House of India. The food was amazing as always and we had an excellent time catching up after two years.

A few evenings before we left we had friends and family to the house for the annual gathering. It was excellent being able to catch up with those we had not seen for a year or two. A good evening was had by one and all.

So we again said goodbye to Bermuda, friends and family, but next time we return it will be for much longer. We realize we need to spend some time at home, we have a grand baby arriving, the family feels neglected and the property needs tending to. A special thanks to Katie who supplied Admiral’s Club passes for our 7 hour layover in Miami Airport. The kids/teens were very happy as seen here.

“Then followed that beautiful season…Summer…  Filled was the air with a dreamy and magical light; and the landscape lay as if new-created in all the freshness of childhood.”  – Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, from “Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie”

“Wherever we want to go, we’ll go. That’s what a ship is, you know. It’s not just a keel and a hull and a deck and sails. That’s what a ship needs. But what a ship is, what it really is, is freedom.” author unknown

PHOTO LINK –>>  St Croix, awaiting weather window

We are still here in St Croix

awaiting a weather window to cross to Bonaire and Curacao. How long has it been? Well we arrived in St Croix April 22^nd and it’s May 13^th. Finally we think that this Friday 15^th will be the magic day as all looks good for the weather to moderate.

As previously noted in last month’s rambles, we started off in Fredrickstad where we enjoyed a week, met some new friends and walked the byways. Our new friends are Pam and Andy off of Grace. They are new to the cruising world having just left St Thomas where they had purchased Grace and spent 5 months getting her ready to cruise. Pam is an artist who would spend time ashore painting, lovely, small, oil paintings of the landscape. So fellow cruisers if you see Grace, give Pam and Andy a shout.

Christiansted instead

The weather started to blow from the southeast and as this causes an uncomfortable roll in Fredickstad so we decided to go to Christiansted instead. There we anchored in our usual area off of Gallows Bay, thinking it would be for just a short while, but here we still are to be found.

Many odd chores have been accomplished. John has fitted a new electrical 12-volt outlet in the cockpit for his iPad and iPhone so he can now charge and use them while underway. He has installed a new bilge pump, we now have 5 installed.

He put a new water pump in the engine; a new through hole in the lazaret/garage as the other was cracked, and accomplished many other odds and ends. We purchase 2 full sets of scuba gear ready for the diving in Bonaire. Meanwhile I worked on all my photos, website pages, sewing repairs, tidying cupboards and such, and also did odd repair jobs.

Most days we would get off the boat and walk somewhere, be it around the town, to the shops or just through the small grungy parkland next to the anchorage.The highlight of the walk in the park was finding a wild peacock with a beautiful plumage, just sitting in a tree.

Chico

passed the time in his usual fashion, being very involved with the engine work by insisting on checking the engine compartment, climbing into any new opening, grabbing any loose bits to roll them down the drains or to fly over board. Yes, his favorite game is to pick up loose receipts, post its, anything small and light, (even $ notes of any value). He carries them usually onto the deck and enjoys chasing them while they fly off in the breeze. Invariably these objects end up in the water, he then looks over the side, shrugs his shoulders and proceeds to go down below to root around for more. He has stripped the notice board, been caught with a $5 note and lost most of his toys. I normally look for feathers when we go ashore and bring them back for him to let fly. This just makes his day!! As mentioned if the object is round he will play golf. He learned some time ago how to pull up the mesh over the drains in the cockpit with his front claws. He then taps the round object around the cockpit until, ooooppps into the hole it goes. He will then proceed to stick his leg down, peer down and look almost proud of his accomplishment. One evening we had friends onboard. The guy Joe who opened a bottle of red wine gave the cork to Chico to play with, well before I even finished telling him what would happen Chico had that cork down the drain hole! Gone just like that! No one there could believe their eyes.

Anyway John put a halt to that game by screwing the mesh to the hole.

Our first Friday night in Christiansted was a Jump Up.

This was to kick off the International Captain Morgan Ironman 70.3 that was being held. “The swim begins on the beach at the Hotel on the Cay and follows a large triangular course. It’s a loop through Christiansted Harbour with a finish at the wharf area. The crowning feature of this race is the legendary climb on the bike course, appropriately named “The Beast.” Once you’ve conquered it, you’ll never look at a hill the same way again.“ This race offers 30 qualifying slots for the IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship.

We went to the Jump Up and met up with Pam, Andy and Joe for a short while. We walked the streets, watched a pan band, the fire dancers, the Mocko Jumbies. We enjoyed a roti and John had his favorite drink, rum with freshly squeezed cane juice, I enjoyed vodka with freshly poured coconut milk. It was a fun evening.

Captain Morgan Ironman

We watched the Captain Morgan Ironman race on the Sunday, well we missed most of the swim as they started at 6am and although they were swimming not far from the boat it really was not easy to see. Anyway we followed the bikes and the runners. It was unbelievable how fast the professionals were! I have never seen anything like it. They bike like maniacs, jump off barefoot at a run pushing the bike to the enclosures area to grab shoes and dress and are off at a full paced run. The winner was Matt Chrabot from USA; he completed it in 04:09:57 and was in way ahead of the second placed fellow Richie Cunningham also from USA. These guys weren’t even tired when they finished!!

We hired a car

A really fun day was when we hired a car and did an island tour. 1st heading to

Salt River Bay

where we hoped to visit the remains of a fort and a village, but all we found was a car park, a beach, a National Park sign and lots of trash.

Our route then took us along the North Shore scenic road. There are some lovely beaches and the view from the road across the bays was excellent. Cane Bay was very beautiful.

The Treball Trail and Tide Pools

Upon reaching the very end of the road we found the Turtle Bay Beach Resort where you can get access to the famed Tide Pools. The guard at the gate directed us to the pathway called The Treball Trail. This trail actually starts behind the car park above the resort. It winds its way uphill, downhill along ledges above cliffs and finally comes out at a rocky beach. The trail is 2.7 miles long and we took 50 minutes to reach the rocky beach. It is a very enjoyable trail to hike as it is shaded and has some fantastic viewpoints where you can see the shoreline for miles.

At the rocky beach, which itself is just beautiful, wild and rough, we walked to the far end wondering where are these tide pools?  John disappeared across the rugged rocks at the end and around the corner, when I finally caught up I found him floating in a beautiful lagoon/tide pool. It took little encouragement for me to strip off and join him.

The pool was wonderfully refreshing after our hike. We were fortunate to be the only ones at the pools, we had passed a few groups that were hiking back from the pools and we had the pools all to ourselves. After our dip we set off back the way we had come making the return 2.7 miles in just 42 minutes, quite a fast pace considering the rugged terrain and steep up hills.

Point Udall

From the tide pools we drove to Fredricksted for lunch, having a very nice lunch in Polly’s. After lunch we drove towards the eastern end of St Croix. The road leads right to the very end of the island along the northern shoreline. It is all wild scrubland and small sandy bays, quite lovely. At the very end we found Point Udall, which marks the easternmost point in the United States. We could see that there were some great hiking trails at this end of St Croix, but the day was getting late and we were quite tired so back to the boat we headed.

Crossing to Bonaire

PHOTO LINK —>> Crossing to and in Bonaire

After checking out in the morning we started out on our passage to Bonaire at 2:00pm 15/05/15, but only made it as far as Fredricksted, St Croix. Why? We both agreed that it was better to wait one day as John felt the weather for our arrival there would be more settled on the Tuesday than the Monday. Plus there was very little wind, which would mean a very slow start to a long trip.

Fredricksted

Fredricksted is a lovely anchorage, that evening there was a jazz concert ashore so we were able to spend the evening enjoying the sounds of music from the shore while reading and relaxing.

Off we sped from Fredericksted at 12:00 16/05/15. We had gone ashore in the morning and stretched our legs, enjoyed the waterfront and had a brunch at Polly’s. It is a very nice restaurant on the sea front.

1st 24 hours

I was just pleased that the first day was out of the way. I hadn’t been sick, but nor had I been comfortable. The beginning was relatively easy with steady winds and moderate seas. The evening brought swells that were more behind us and winds that were lighter plus a current against us so it was slow and very uncomfortable rolly polly, like being in a washing tub and not a wonderful start.

John relieved me early for his midnight to 4am shift and then he let me have another extra hours rest. That was lovely of him as really sleep was neither easy nor deep. He had snoozed through the time, as it was so quiet, so he said. What he meant was there were no ships. There was just nothing about. The first ship was spotted at noon today, so 1 ship in 24 hours. There have been some birds, lots of flying fish, but no whales or Dolphins.

2nd 24 hours

Passed quicker and seemed much better. I felt only tired and supposed that is to be expected. My 8pm – 12am shift again was cut short by John coming up around 11:30pm. I was very relieved as my eyes kept shutting. The shift went well, only 1 ship that passed very quickly some 3 miles off our bow. I listened to my audio book “The Stolen Dog” which as books go is ok, but for something to do other than read it is great. Once I had gone below the weather deteriorated so that it was much rougher and windier for John. I was being thrown around on the bed, but being so tired I slept even while being tossed around. At one stage I was thrown across the “bed” but just went back to sleep. Poor John had a hard night watch as he had to try to be comfortable, stay awake and monitor everything too.

Today was a lovely day. From when John called me at 5:30, (he let me sleep longer again), through the morning it was a peaceful sail. The seas were about 4-5 feet and the wind averaging 15-20 knots. We just slid through the water. It meant John got a good rest for most of the morning. We only have 80 odd miles to go! Yippee!!

3rd, 24 hours

These 24 hours were even easier. The night watch for me was a breeze, I listened to my audio book looked out and time flew by. I had smooth seas and wind of 15 – 20 knots, which on a beam reach is very smooth. The weather later on that last night was at times very windy on John’s watch and he had to reef the jib. However I slept through it all, as it was smooth, fast sailing. Actually John had to try to slow the boat down as the speed reached 9.3 knots.

We could clearly see Bonaire at dawn and arrived at the perfect time. Our sail into the Kralendijk Harbour was amazing, smooth and fast we were attached to the mooring by 10:00am. Remembering what a HUGE obstacle this crossing represented to me as I had never done more than 2 nights in a row…..well not any more……I’m up for anything now, well nearly anything.

Kralendijk Bonaire

Bonaire is very different from what I expected. The main Harbour is where you get a mooring and the only place. There is no anchoring, as it is all National Park Reserve. The water is clear, clear, clear, crystal clear. The moorings are just off of the front which runs along the shoreline of Kralendijk. The bottom is all sandy and at about 50 feet from shore the reef starts, its quickly slopes off to deep blue where the reef wall runs all around Bonaire. Kralendijk harbour is one long sea front where there are colorful homes, restaurants, stores and such. The swim clubs practice right there along the shoreline in the Harbour. One can see Parrotfish swimming along the shoreline reefs on the front, sea birds of all types flying, baitfish jumping and all right around and in the mooring field.

The feel of the island so far is very European, it is Dutch, with a distinct Spanish/Venezuelan influence, but there is a distinct French flavor too. Plus you have the West Indian mix added as well which makes a real potpoui. The food reflects this with amazing breads, cheeses, ice creams, wines, savory sausages, meats and your regular peas and rice and cassava dishes too. The little stores are so very European to look at, but colourfully Spanish and Caribbean.

We have managed to explore a small part of the town, walked to the all-important grocery store, checked out the marina area and made inquiries about diving. We are both very impressed with Bonaire. The only negative is the dust. It is a dry, dry, island with winds normally blowing over 20k and blowing directly onto the mooring field sooooo, ruddy/bloody dust is constantly collecting everywhere. However this is a minor inconvenience in life, we tell ourselves.

We are looking forward to our summer explorations of Bonaire.

I had been experiencing a problem with one of my teeth and so visited a local Dental Clinic. Amazing, the consultation, x-ray, with super modern equipment and young staff only cost $49.00. Then the 2 prescriptions were and added $11.79. Just incredible I would be paying a good 4xs that at home! Anyway as my jaw was too sore to dive we hired a scooter for the day.

Scooter for the Day

We headed south, (flat side of island), along the “roadway” that took us by the salt pans. This salt operation is massive!! It has to be seen to be believed. There are huge ponds that are systematically farmed/raked for salt. The salt is then in massive piles ready to be exported on ships overseas. The salt farming was started way back in the 1600s when everywhere was totally dependent on salt to preserve food. The Dutch started the saltpans in Bonaire after they were driven out of Venezuela by the Spanish.

Bonaire was known as the White Hell as the criminals; rebellious and or runaway slaves were punished by being sent to Bonaire. These slaves would have to stand in the concentrated salt water with bare feet all day working the saltpans. After a full day’s work in their salty wet clothes they then crawled into primitive, self-made huts of leaves. Upon looking sat the sparse foliage John and I couldn’t imagine what they had used. It truly was HELL! The stone slave huts, which still stand today, were only built 13 years before the abolition of slavery in 1863. Looking at those huts for the 1^st time I was truly saddened to think people had to live/survive in them.

The salt ponds/pans were divided into sections and each section had an obelisk of a different colour on the shoreline in order to be identified by the approaching ships. They were the colours of the Dutch flag, red, white and blue. The obelisks too still stand today. The slave women would crouch down while 2 males lowered a fully laden basket of salt upon their heads. These women then had to walk along narrow planks of a platform to the waiting ship. There 4 men would be required to raise the basket onto the ships deck. Incredibly the women used to sing, “Man pa maket’i Maria” which translated means: Give a hand to the basket of Maria. It is now a lullaby.

The salt ponds/pans today are owned and run by Cargill an American company they stretch for miles, way off into the distance. Their colours vary from beige/mustard, pink, to white to pale bluish hues, starkly contrasting to the deep turquoise and blues of the sea close by.

Wild flamingos

We stopped to see the wild flamingos whenever we saw them in the salt ponds along the way. They are wild and Bonaire protects them, this is reflected in their numbers, which have steadily increased. Flamingos really are beautiful to see in the wild wading in the shallow waters or soaring overhead.

Lac Bay

Further along the southwestern shore is an area reserved for the kite boarders. They were out there flying around on and above the water. There must always be action cause it is sooo windy here, all the time. Riding along the eastern shore we reached an area called Lac Bay. This is a shallow bay where the wind surfers practice their sport. Again the wind surfing athletes were flying around. This area also has a large mangrove reservation, which is managed by the park service.

We cut across the island and went for lunch in Kralendijk. Driving across the interior there is just the occasional “homestead” set back in the thorny, dusty, dry wilderness. I for one could not live there.

Washington-Slagbaai Park

After a very nice lunch along the front we set off again this time for the northern end where the “highlands” are seen in the distance.

We rode along the western shoreline, which took us along a very narrow lane, right at the rocky shoreline. It is quite lovely, really more like a desert landscape, cactus, thorny plants and brush, a rocky hillside riddled with caves with the beautiful turquoise sea at its other side.

We reached the end of the line at BOTEC, an oil storage facility where we could see 2 massive oil tankers were either dropping off or picking up oil. This northern end has the Washington-Slagbaai Park.

The highland peaks reach about 800 feet. There are also massive salt pond lakes. We could not enter as you would need a jeep or truck to deal with the tracks, but we could look across the area and it was amazing. Such a contrast of colours, textures and incredibly wild, quite surrealistic. Again we saw flamingoes, there were all types of birds everywhere I even saw a pair of the local parrots. The park is alive with wildlife despite it being so dry and inhospitable for people. We could see excellent hiking trails and look forward to exploring further this summer.

Rincon

Rincon was the next brief stop. This is the original settlement and has the old architecture from days gone by. Again looking at the “homesteads” and “farms” which they are said to be, I could not imagine chipping out a life there. They farm goats, cactus for liquor and aloe. It must be an incredibly hard way of life.

We had an excellent day touring Bonaire. There is still more to see when we return

Diving at Klein Bonaire

Finally we, rather I, had my 1^st dive with the new gear. We took the dingy to Klein Bonaire loaded with our gear. It was a rough crossing and not to be repeated on windy days. Really we need to take Aeeshah. I admit I was very nervous as putting on allll that gear in the rocking, rolling, bouncing dingy is quite challenging.

Anyway geared up we went in and it was fabulous. The water is so clear, visibility is brilliant, and the corals are abundant, flourishing and plentiful. All types and colours of fish were to be seen. The dive sites start off of the sandy shallows by the beach, about 10 – 15 feet and then slopes steadily down to deep depths off a wall which reaches 200 – 300 feet. It really is quite amazing!! I enjoyed the dive tremendously and am looking forward to more. And there are 100s of dive sites all around Bonaire and Klein Bonaire. Lots to be done this summer.

“The greatest boundaries that we face in our lives are very often the ones we ourselves create in our minds.  – Ellyn Spragins

“Change is the essence of life.”  – Anatole France

PHOTO link ——->> Trinidad for September Introducing svAeeshah’s ships cat Chico: We have a new crewmember his name is Chico. He was on FB in Trinidad, as he needed a home. He was lucky enough that two young men drove him … Continue reading →