Waiting to get to Bonaire, crossing and enjoying Bonaire

 

PHOTO LINK –>>  St Croix, awaiting weather window

IMG_6297We are still here in St Croix

awaiting a weather window to cross to Bonaire and Curacao. How long has it been? Well we arrived in St Croix April 22nd and it’s May 13th. Finally we think that this Friday 15th will be the magic day as all looks good for the weather to moderate.

As previously noted in last month’s rambles, we started off in IMG_6296Fredrickstad where we enjoyed a week, met some new friends and walked the byways. Our new friends are Pam and Andy off of Grace. They are new to the cruising world having just left St Thomas where they had purchased Grace and spent 5 months getting her ready to cruise. Pam is an artist who would spend time ashore painting, lovely, small, oil paintings of the landscape. So fellow cruisers if you see Grace, give Pam and Andy a shout.


 

IMG_5930Christiansted instead

The weather started to blow from the IMG_5936southeast and as this causes an uncomfortable roll in Fredickstad so we decided to go to Christiansted instead. There we anchored in our usual area off of Gallows Bay, thinking it would be for just a short while, but here we still are to be found.

Many odd chores have been accomplished. John has fitted a new IMG_6314electrical 12-volt outlet in the cockpit for his IMG_6299iPad and iPhone so he can now charge and use them while underway. He has installed a new bilge pump, we now have 5 installed.

He put a new water pump in the engine; a new through hole in the lazaret/garage as the other was cracked, and accomplished many other odds and ends. We purchase IMG_62982 full sets of scuba gear ready for the diving in Bonaire. Meanwhile I worked on all my IMG_6302photos, website pages, sewing repairs, tidying cupboards and such, and also did odd repair jobs.

Most days we would get off the boat and walk somewhere, be it around the town, to the shops or just through the small grungy parkland next to the anchorage.The highlight of the walk in the park was finding a wild peacock with a beautiful plumage, just sitting in a tree.


ChicoIMG_6319

IMG_6338passed the time in his usual fashion, being very involved with the engine work by insisting on checking the engine compartment, climbing into any new opening, grabbing any loose bits to roll them down the drains or to fly over board. Yes, his favorite game is to pick up loose receipts, post its, anything small and light, (even $ notes of any value). He carries them usually onto the deck and enjoys chasing them while they fly off in the breeze. Invariably these objects end IMG_6339up in the water, he then looks over the side, shrugs his shoulders and proceeds to go down below to root around for IMG_6330more. He has stripped the notice board, been caught with a $5 note and lost most of his toys. I normally look for feathers when we go ashore and bring them back for him to let fly. This just makes his day!! As mentioned if the object is round he will play golf. He learned some time ago how to pull up the mesh over the drains in the cockpit with his front claws. He then taps the round object around the cockpit until, ooooppps into the hole it goes. IMG_6329He will then proceed to stick his leg down, peer down and look almost proud of his accomplishment. One evening we had friends onboard. The guy Joe IMG_5947who opened a bottle of red wine gave the cork to Chico to play with, well before I even finished telling him what would happen Chico had that cork down the drain hole! Gone just like that! No one there could believe their eyes.

IMG_5952Anyway John put a halt to that game by screwing the mesh to the hole.

Our first Friday night in Christiansted was a IMG_5945Jump Up.

This was to kick off the International Captain Morgan Ironman 70.3 that was being held. “The swim begins on the beach at the Hotel on the Cay and IMG_6055follows a large triangular course. It’s a loop through Christiansted Harbour with a finish at the wharf area. The crowning feature of this race is the IMG_6057legendary climb on the bike course, appropriately named “The Beast.” Once you’ve conquered it, you’ll never look at a hill the same way again. This race offers 30 qualifying slots for the IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship.


 

IMG_5953IMG_5966We went to the Jump Up and met up with Pam, Andy and Joe for a short while. We walked the streets, watched a pan band, the fire dancers, the Mocko Jumbies. We enjoyed a roti and John had his favorite drink, rum with freshly squeezed cane juice, I enjoyed vodka with freshly poured coconut milk. It was a fun evening.

IMG_5968IMG_5987IMG_6013

 

 

 

 

 


 

IMG_6107Captain Morgan IronmanIMG_6117

We watched the Captain Morgan Ironman race on the Sunday, well we missed most of the swim as they started at 6am and although they were swimming not far from the boat it really was not easy to see. Anyway we followed the bikes and the runners. It was unbelievable how fast the professionals were! I have never seen IMG_6147IMG_6057anything like it. They bike like maniacs, jump off barefoot at a run pushing the bike to the enclosures area to grab shoes and dress and are off at a full paced run. The winner was Matt Chrabot from USA; he completed it in 04:09:57 and was in way ahead of the second placed fellow Richie Cunningham also from USA. These guys weren’t even tired when they finished!!IMG_6154


IMG_6184We hired a carIMG_6188

A really fun day was when we hired a car and did an island tour. 1st heading to

Salt River Bay

where we hoped to visit the remains of a fort and a village, but all we found was a car park, a beach, a National Park sign IMG_6197and lots of trash.IMG_6272

Our route then took us along the North Shore scenic road. There are some lovely beaches and the view from the road across the bays was excellent. Cane Bay was very beautiful.

The Treball Trail and Tide Pools

IMG_6256Upon reaching the very end of the road we found the Turtle IMG_6235Bay Beach Resort where you can get access to the famed Tide Pools. The guard at the gate directed us to the pathway called The Treball Trail. This trail actually starts behind the car park above the resort. It winds its way uphill, downhill along ledges above cliffs and finally comes out at a rocky beach. The trail is 2.7 miles long and we took 50 minutes to IMG_6221reach the rocky beach. It is a very enjoyable trail to hike as it is shaded and has some fantastic viewpoints where you can IMG_6228see the shoreline for miles.

At the rocky beach, which itself is just beautiful, wild and rough, we walked to the far end wondering where are these tide pools?  John disappeared across the rugged rocks at the end and around the corner, when I finally caught IMG_6230up I found him floating in a beautiful lagoon/tide pool. It took little encouragement for me to strip off and join him.IMG_6201

The pool was wonderfully refreshing after our hike. We were fortunate to be the only ones at the pools, we had passed a few groups that were hiking back from the pools and we had the pools all to ourselves. After our dip we IMG_6193set off back the way we had come making the return 2.7 miles in just 42 minutes, quite a fast pace considering the rugged terrain and steep up hills.

 

Point UdallIMG_6277

From the tide pools we drove to IMG_6292Fredricksted for lunch, having a very nice lunch in Polly’s. After lunch we drove towards the eastern end of St Croix. The road leads right to the very end of the island along the northern shoreline. It is all wild scrubland and small sandy bays, quite lovely. At the very end we found Point Udall, which marks the easternmostIMG_6287 point in the United States. We could see that there were some great hiking trails at this end of St Croix, but the day was getting late and we were quite tired so back to the boat we headed.

 

 

IMG_6316


Crossing to Bonaire

PHOTO LINK —>> Crossing to and in Bonaire

IMG_2656After checking out in the morning we started out on our passage to Bonaire at 2:00pm 15/05/15, but only made it as far as Fredricksted, St Croix. Why? We both agreed that it was better to wait one day as John felt the weather for our arrival there would be more settled on the Tuesday than the Monday. Plus there was very little wind, which would mean a very slow start to a long trip.

Fredricksted

Fredricksted is a lovely anchorage, that evening there was a jazz concert ashore so we IMG_2687IMG_2904were able to spend the evening enjoying the sounds of music from the shore while reading and relaxing.

Off we sped from Fredericksted at 12:00 16/05/15. We had gone ashore in the morning and stretched our legs, enjoyed the waterfront and had a brunch at Polly’s. It is a very nice restaurant on the sea front.

1st 24 hours

I was just pleased that the first day was out of the way. I hadn’t been sick, but nor had I IMG_6346been comfortable. The beginning was relatively easy with steady IMG_6350winds and moderate seas. The evening brought swells that were more behind us and winds that were lighter plus a current against us so it was slow and very uncomfortable rolly polly, like being in a washing tub and not a wonderful start.

John relieved me early for his midnight to 4am shift and then he let me have another extra hours rest. That was lovely of him as really sleep was neither easy nor deep. He had snoozed through the time, as it was so quiet, so he said. What he meant was there were no ships. There was just nothing about. The first ship was spotted at noon today, so 1 ship in 24 hours. There have been some birds, lots of flying fish, but no whales or Dolphins.IMG_6395

2nd 24 hours

Passed quicker and seemed much better. I felt only tired and supposed that is to be expected. My 8pm – 12am shift again was cut short by John coming up around 11:30pm. I was very relieved as my eyes kept shutting. The shift went well, only 1 ship that passed IMG_6352very quickly some 3 miles off our bow. I listened to my audio book “The Stolen Dog” which as books go is ok, but for something to do other than read it is great. Once I had gone below the weather deteriorated so that it was much rougher and windier for John. I was being thrown around on the bed, but being so tired I slept even while being tossed around. At one stage I was thrown across the “bed” but just went back to sleep. Poor John had a hard night watch as he had to try to be comfortable, stay awake and monitor everything too.

Today was a lovely day. From when John called me at 5:30, (he let me sleep longer again), IMG_6354through the morning it was a peaceful sail. The seas were about 4-5 feet and the wind averaging 15-20 knots. We just slid through the water. It meant John got a good rest for most of the morning. We only have 80 odd miles to go! Yippee!!

IMG_63573rd, 24 hours

These 24 hours were even easier. The night watch for me was a breeze, I listened to my audio book looked out and time flew by. I had smooth seas and wind of 15 – 20 knots, which on a beam reach is very smooth. The weather later on that last night was at times very windy on John’s watch and he had to reef the jib. However I slept through it all, as it was smooth, fast sailing. Actually John had to tryIMG_6353 to slow the boat down as the speed reached 9.3 knots.

We could clearly see Bonaire at dawn and arrived at the perfect time. Our sail into the Kralendijk Harbour was amazing, smooth and fast we were attached to the mooring by 10:00am. Remembering what a HUGE obstacle this crossing represented to me as I had never done more than 2 nights in a row…..well not any more……I’m up for anything now, well nearly anything.



Kralendijk Bonaire

IMG_6361Bonaire is very different from what I expected. The main Harbour isIMG_6359 where you get a mooring and the only place. There is no anchoring, as it is all National Park Reserve. The water is clear, clear, clear, crystal clear. The moorings are just off of the front which runs along the shoreline of Kralendijk. The bottom is all sandy and at about 50 feet from shore the reef starts, its quickly slopes off to deep blue where the reef wall runs all around Bonaire. Kralendijk harbour is one long sea front where IMG_6384there are colorful homes, restaurants, stores and such. The swim clubs practice right there along the shoreline in the Harbour. One IMG_6380can see Parrotfish swimming along the shoreline reefs on the front, sea birds of all types flying, baitfish jumping and all right around and in the mooring field.

The feel of the island so far is very European, it is Dutch, with a distinct Spanish/Venezuelan influence, but there is a distinct French flavor IMG_6381IMG_6388too. Plus you have the West Indian mix added as well which makes a real potpoui. The food reflects this with amazing breads, cheeses, ice creams, wines, savory sausages, meats and your regular peas and rice and cassava dishes too. The little stores are so very European to look at, but colourfully Spanish and Caribbean.

We have managed to explore a small part of the town, walked to the all-important grocery IMG_6386IMG_6368store, checked out the marina area and made inquiries about diving. We are both very impressed with Bonaire. The only negative is the dust. It is a dry, dry, island with winds normally blowing over 20k and blowing directly onto the mooring field sooooo, ruddy/bloody dust is constantly collecting everywhere. However this is a minor inconvenience in life, we tell IMG_6407IMG_6403ourselves.

We are looking forward to our summer explorations of Bonaire.

I had been experiencing a problem with one of my teeth and so visited a local Dental Clinic. Amazing, the consultation, x-ray, with super modern equipment and young staff only cost $49.00. Then the 2 prescriptions were and added $11.79. Just incredible I would be paying a good 4xs that at home! Anyway as my jaw was too sore to dive we hired a scooter for the day.IMG_6430IMG_6400

IMG_6455

IMG_6433IMG_6410


IMG_6459 Scooter for the DayIMG_6463

We headed south, (flat side of island), along the “roadway” that took us by the salt pans. This salt operation is massive!! It has to be seen to be believed. There are huge ponds that are systematically farmed/raked for salt. The salt is then in massive piles ready to be exported on IMG_6464ships overseas. The salt farming was started way back in the 1600s when everywhere was totally dependent on salt to preserve food. The Dutch started the saltpans in Bonaire after they were driven out of Venezuela by the Spanish.

Bonaire was known as the White Hell as the criminals; rebelliousIMG_6471 and or runaway slaves were punished by being sent to Bonaire. These slaves would have to stand in the concentrated salt water with bare feet all day working the saltpans. After a full day’s IMG_6508work in their salty wet clothes they then crawled into primitive, self-made huts of leaves. Upon looking sat the sparse foliage John and I couldn’t imagine what they had used. It truly was HELL! The stone slave huts, which still stand today, IMG_6509were only built 13 years before the IMG_6487abolition of slavery in 1863. Looking at those huts for the 1st time I was truly saddened to think people had to live/survive in them.

The salt ponds/pans were divided into sections and each section had an obelisk of a IMG_6500IMG_6496different colour on the shoreline in order to be identified by the approaching ships. They were the colours of the Dutch flag, red, white and blue. The obelisks too still stand today. The slave women would crouch down while 2 males lowered a fully laden basket of salt upon their heads. These women then had to walk along narrow planks of a platform to the waiting IMG_6544IMG_6552ship. There 4 men would be required to raise the basket onto the ships deck. Incredibly the women used to sing, “Man pa maket’i Maria” which translated means: Give a hand to the basket of Maria. It is now a lullaby.

The salt ponds/pans today are owned and run by Cargill an American company IMG_6537IMG_6564they stretch for miles, way off into the IMG_6573distance. Their colours vary from beige/mustard, pink, to white to pale bluish hues, starkly contrasting to the deep turquoise and blues of the sea close by.

IMG_6586IMG_6577Wild flamingosIMG_6584

We stopped to see the wild flamingos whenever we saw them in the salt ponds along the way. They are wild and Bonaire protects them, this is reflected in their numbers, which have steadily increased. Flamingos really are beautiful to see in the wild wading in the shallow waters or IMG_6565soaring overhead.IMG_6535

IMG_6525Lac Bay

Further along the southwestern shore is an area reserved for the kite boarders. They were out there flying around on and above the water. There must always be action cause it is sooo windy here, all IMG_6606IMG_6593the time. Riding along the eastern shore we reached an area called Lac Bay. This is a shallow bay where the wind surfers practice their sport. Again the wind surfing athletes were flying around. This area also has a large mangrove IMG_6589IMG_6588reservation, which is managed by the park service.

We cut across the island and went for lunch in Kralendijk. Driving across the interior there is just the occasional “homestead” set back in the thorny, dusty, dry wilderness. I for one could not live there.


Washington-Slagbaai ParkIMG_6616

IMG_6630After a very nice lunch along the front we set off again this time for the northern end where the “highlands” are seen in the distance.

We rode along the western shoreline, which took us along a very narrow lane, right at the rocky shoreline. It is quite lovely, really more like a IMG_6628desert landscape, cactus, thorny plants and brush, a rocky hillside riddled with caves with the beautiful IMG_6642turquoise sea at its other side.

We reached the end of the line at BOTEC, an oil storage facility where we could see 2 massive oil tankers were either dropping off or picking up oil. This northern end has the Washington-Slagbaai Park.

The highland peaks reach about 800 feet. There are also massive IMG_6644IMG_6647salt pond lakes. We could not enter as you would need a jeep or truck to deal with the tracks, but we could look across the area and it was amazing. Such a contrast of colours, textures and incredibly wild, quite surrealistic. Again we saw flamingoes, there were all types of birds everywhere I even saw a pair of the local parrots. The park is alive with wildlife despite it being so dry and IMG_6655IMG_6657IMG_6661inhospitable for people. We could see excellent hiking trails and look forward to exploring further this summer.


RinconIMG_6672

IMG_6682Rincon was the next brief stop. This is the original settlement and has the old architecture from days gone by. Again looking at the “homesteads” and “farms” which they are said to be, I could not imagine chipping out a life there. They farm goats, cactus for liquor and aloe. It must be an incredibly hard way of life.

We had an excellent day touring Bonaire. There is still more to see when we return

IMG_6681Diving at Klein BonaireIMG_6679

Finally we, rather I, had my 1st dive with the new gear. We took the dingy to Klein Bonaire loaded with our gear. It was a rough crossing and not to be repeated on windy days. Really we need to take Aeeshah. I admit I was very nervous as putting on allll that gear in the rocking, rolling, bouncing dingy is quite challenging.

IMG_6630IMG_6640Anyway geared up we went in and it was fabulous. The water is so clear, visibility is IMG_6689brilliant, and the corals are abundant, flourishing and plentiful. All types and colours of fish were to be seen. The dive sites start off of the sandy shallows by the beach, about 10 – 15 feet and then slopes steadily down to deep depths off a wall which reaches 200 – 300 feet. It really is quite amazing!! I enjoyed the dive tremendously and am looking forward to more. And there are 100s of dive sites all around Bonaire and Klein Bonaire. Lots to be done this summer.

IMG_6391

“The greatest boundaries that we face in our lives are very often the ones we ourselves create in our minds.  – Ellyn Spragins

“Change is the essence of life.”  – Anatole France

 

Posted in Weather | 1 Comment

Vieques; Chrissie & Ivan visit; heading south….

 

 

Isla De Vieques

PHOTO ALBUM CLICK HERE —->> Isla De Vieques

IMG_5276Our time in Vieques started off at Punta Arenas – Green Beach,IMG_5277

at the western end of the island. It was a beautiful shoreline with long stretches of beaches and reefs in clear, clear water. We went ashore with Jo and John and walked along the trails and beaches paddling in the water. IMG_5286IMG_5290Definitely somewhere to visit again one day.

IMG_5295IMG_5300


IMG_5314Sun Bay – Sombe Beach

Our second anchorage was Sun Bay next door to the IMG_5317town of Esperanza.

Once again we went ashore this time we walked around the town, found a grocery store and resupplied. We saw a very cool way to gamble on the horses: There was IMG_5335this table that spun and on it where model horses all lined up with numbers, the guy spins the wheel round go the horses, you put you $$$ on the numbers you want andIMG_5333 Voila….horse races!! We then had an ice cream while sitting under the palm trees by the beach watching the activity.

Later we took another walk along the trails to see how IMG_5341far away the luminescence bay was located. We never did find out, but we did visit IMG_5345other lovely beaches along the way.


Essenda Honda

IMG_5349Our final stop at Vieques was the anchorage at IMG_5352Essenda Honda,

which is a massive “hurricane” hole. It is a nearly enclosed bay completely surrounded by mangroves, to get in you wind your way through the reefs and find a very peaceful, beautiful, resting spot.

John believed he knew from his Google maps where a roadway was located, off we set to find and follow the road. This involved first finding a way to access the IMG_5354shoreline. Our best bet was to paddle across the shallows by the reef, which we did, tying the dingys to the mangroves.

Once on terra firma we started clambering across the rocks and along the cliffs towards where we thought we would be parallel with the roadway. John from Out of Africa had to drop out as he only had crocs on his feet and crossing the rocks was quite dangerous. Well we 3 reached where we thought the roadway would be a short distance inland. So then we had to bush whack our way up a steep, thorny hillside and the rain IMG_5358started. Not to be deterred by rain, we continued IMG_5362finally finding the remains of what was maybe once some sort of pathway. John tried in both directions to find us a way through, but the thorns were too much even for him and we had to admit defeat. By that stage we were all soaked, but pleasantly cooled IMG_5365off for our return trek to the dingy and back to the boats.DSC03610


St Thomas

We sailed to St Thomas the next day and anchored IMG_5404in Charlotte Amalie

where we stocked up for a few days in the Virgins. Our intention was to go as far as Deadman’s Bay, Peter’s Island with John and Jo and then to return to meet Chrissie and Ivan who were visiting with us. However this was not what happened, we encountered several problems and had to return after 2 hours of sloughing into winds and seas towards our destination.

IMG_5429Problems were:IMG_5379

  1. Broken throttle cable – which turned out to be that the throttle cable had come adrift from the engine.
  2. Auto Pilot not working – which turned out to be another bolt that had sheared off and also worn its bedding away. John has fixed that for once and all so he hopes.
  3. An engine that would not start – turned out to be a loose wire shorting out.

IMG_5419All these issues took John nearly three days to repair after he bought the parts and solved their puzzling issues. Long story short, we now have a better than new auto bolt in re drilled hole, new attachment for the throttle to the engine and loose wires are tidied and out of way.IMG_5408

IMG_5402We did visit Hassell Island once to walk to the ruins at the harbour side and to enjoy a swim from the beach. At the top where the old radio/signal station was located there was great view of the entire harbour and surrounding area.

Then we visited the other side to do a dingy clean. That was a major job!! Plus then I had to repair all the worn and IMG_5421IMG_5423shredded areas of the cover which was a whole 2 day job. Oh well, the dingy looks 100% better now.IMG_5427


Chrissie and Ivan’s visit

PHOTO ALBUM CLICK HERE–>> Chrissie & Ivan visit St John, BVIs and St Thomas

IMG_5433Caneel Bay, (Honeymoon Beach) and Cruz Bay, St JohnIMG_5436

We decided to avoid the horrible upwind grind that needs to be taken between Charlotte Amalie and Cruz Bay by heading there during light winds and being in place ready for the arrival of Chrissie and Ivan. Which we did the day before they arrived.

IMG_5437On their arrival date we set off across to St Thomas and the airport via the ferry and the bus to meet the flight.

It was very exciting meeting Chrissie and Ivan neither of them had IMG_5439visited Aeeshah or the Caribbean area before. I had prepped them for their visit with the news like: that showers were a quick rinse off with cold water hose on the aft deck and Chrissie had told me that Ivan was not too sure about this as he was used to 20 minutes warm showers. So we were also wondering what their reaction to the whole cruising scene would be.

P1030108The taxi from the airport drove back via Skyline Drive, which took us P1030117right over the high hills above Charlotte Amalie. It was very impressive, but the sheer drop offs were a new thrill for Chrissie.

We finally returned to the boat around 6pm just in time for a swim, shower and drink before dinner. All went well.

IMG_5446IMG_5448The next day we dingied into Cruz Bay and did a hike along the Lind Point Trail, the Caneel Hill Trail and the spur trail, all being a loop, checking out the scenery and the look out on the point. The view was beautiful!

Back in Cruz Bay we sauntered around the small colorful shops, picked up a IMG_5452IMG_5460P1030142few odds and ends and had a delicious ice cream.

IMG_5467There is an island –Henley Cay, off of Caneel BayDSCN0673 where we had snorkeled some years before. In the afternoon we dingied over to the island and snorkeled the reef there. It was just as gorgeous as it had been years before. We saw turtles, a shark, many fish of all types and coral galore. DSCN0687DSCN0677DSCN0659

 

 

 

 

It was a lovely afternoon.


IMG_5471Great Harbour Jost Van DykeIMG_5481

The following morning we headed towards Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands. We got a spot in Great Harbour not far from the beach and had lunch before heading ashore to explore. After 1st exploring Foxy’s shop we IMG_5477wandered down the front along the beach stopping to see the various interesting sights. Then finished up IMG_5504by having a swim off the beach before heading back to Aeeshah. Dinner that night was at the famous Foxy’s Bar and Restaurant. I really enjoyed my fresh tuna dinner. It was a fun evening.

IMG_5531


IMG_5510Benures Bay, Norman IslandIMG_5505

Off we sailed the next morning towards Norman Island and anchored in Benures Bay, which was a new anchorage for John and me too. The bay is huge and spectacular. The water a lovely, turquoise blue. After lunch we dingied around P1030246DSCN0740and then snorkeled around the shoreline. John was directed to climb the mast for a photo shoot of our couple sun bathing on the deck. The sunset was picture perfect, another lovely day.

IMG_5527


P1030252Virgin Gorda, Prickly Pear anchorageIMG_5542

It was a longer sail to Virgin Gorda the next morning, but we made excellent time, as the wind direction was perfect. Chrissie and Ivan enjoyed sitting ahead of the mast and sun bathing while gliding along under sail.

IMG_5543We anchored off of Prickly Pear Island, had lunch IMG_5537and went ashore to check our the Bitter End Yacht Club. We strolled the pathway along the shoreline and enjoyed looking at how the other half lives. Off we went afterwards across the bay to Leverick Bay to the local village to visit the grocery store. There we found most of what we wanted before crossing the sound for another wet ride back.

IMG_5568IMG_5571The next day was also spent enjoying Virgin Gorda. We went in the dingy around the other side of Prickly Pear Island where we could look across at Necker Island, owned by Sir Richard Branson. We also walked along the beaches of Prickly Pear, beach combing and poking through the treasures of low tide finding shells for Chrissie to take IMG_5586home. We swam and returned to Aeeshah for a IMG_5588barbeque dinner.

P1030324


IMG_5686The BathsIMG_5652

The following morning we moved down the coast of Virgin Gorda to the anchorage near the Baths.

The Baths are famous for the large, granite, rock DSCN0773DSCN0782formations above and below the surface of the water. John and I had visited nearly 10 years ago and were looking forward to visiting again. It really is a fun area to explore, through the tunnels, tight spaces; under rocks and in caves one can go. We enjoyed the Baths exploring above water and then snorkeled from the far end at Devil’s Bay all through the rock formations, large pools where shafts of light play and shine DSCN0819DSCN0825DSCN0850down the deep crevices through the tunnels we swam and back to the dingy. It really is absolutely stunning snorkeling in this area!


Deadman’s Bay, Peters Island

P1030475After lunch we moved along to Deadman’s Bay, P1030472Peters Island. This is another spectacular palm tree lined bay. It has a resort on its shores, which in no way impedes the natural beauty. Again Ivan and Chrissie were impressed with the scenery. Here we had a barbecue and a wonderful evening, Ivan enjoying John’s rum punch while swinging in the hammock watching the sunset.

IMG_5690


IMG_5703Salt Pond Bay, St JohnIMG_5713

The morning arrived and after breakfast we were off this time to Salt Pond Bay, St John.

Now Chrissie and Ivan said there was no way we could beat the last few bays and anchorages, but when we pulled into Salt Pond Cay IMG_5724they were truly impressed. It is a spectacular bay, IMG_5722tucked right in behind the reefs for protection, ringed by lovely beach and with St John’s high, hills behind with hardly a building in sight.

We decided we needed to pick up a few groceries and I thought I could see IMG_5709signs of civilization on the slopes above so we set off ashore to walk and investigate. We followed the pathway from the beach and found the road. This we IMG_5707followed as it steadily wound uphill. The further we went the further we saw we had to go, up and up and up.

Finally at the crest of the hill we saw what looked like IMG_5710a cafe. It turned out to be The Tourist Trap, a very small eatery serving lobster sandwiches, smoothies, cold drinks and a few T-shirts.IMG_5715

By this time we were all needing refreshment and directions to the nearest grocery store. Well a lady called Jenny who runs the place was very obliging; she served wonderful drinks and Mango smoothies and directed us to catch the bus to the Calabash grocery store some miles away.

IMG_5727John and I were lucky to get the bus – Vitram, that was just passing, (they are normally very rare, few IMG_5731and far between) while Ivan and Chrissie recuperated before their downhill return to wait on the beach for up. Our bus ride was like a roller coaster ride; the lady driver was flying round the tight bends and laughing about it, crazy! The Calabash turned out to have all IMG_5734we needed, we thanked a very bored cashier, I think we had been her only customers for some time, and crossed the road when low and behold a bus – Vitram, appeared. Our lucky IMG_5740day, we jumped aboard and were back at the beach with our supplies before we knew it finding Chrissie and Ivan enjoying its waters and shade.

The next day was spent enjoying Salt Pond Bay. We IMG_5755took a hike in the morning along the Ram’s Head Trail to the cliffs at the headland. It is a most spectacular hike that starts off along the shoreline, goes over the hill to the next bay which is a rocky, pebbledIMG_5743 bay, then up the hillside to the edge of the cliffs – Ram’s Head, where you climb to the edge of the headland. The views are stunning, the breeze just wonderful and only a few IMG_5756other people were around. It was another excellent morning.

IMG_5759

 

IMG_5767

 

 

 

 

 

P1030438IMG_5799IMG_5785

That afternoon we snorkeled in the bay. Again the snorkeling was excellent. We had a barracuda, which had been hanging, around the boat when we first arrived and we were told by another crushing boat his name was Barny. Well Barny the Barracuda was a big boy and really friendly. There was also a turtle, which kept coming up, and saying “hi” to us. Chrissie as Terry named him. Anyway while snorkeling I saw not only Barny and Terry, but also a fantastic display of corals and many colorful reef fish, mainly on the small side but very pretty. John spotted another Barracuda, which must have been Barny’s Dad as this one was massive, just idling away by some sea whips. Again it was a wonderful afternoon. We all loved Salt Pond Bay.

IMG_5805


 

P1030450The morning saw us leaving for Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas.

We had a nice sail there going past the other side of IMG_5818Christmas cove, past an island called Little St. James. It had a very, very, fancy estate built on it with its own Egyptian style temple too. Being curious we looked up who owns it. Well this fellow, he’s a multi billionaire, international, wheeler and dealer in all sorts of nonsense, even been in prison. It explained the security in the golf carts watching us sail by.

IMG_5826In Charlotte Amalie there were no cruise ships so Ivan and Chrissie lucked out, quiet shops! We had lunch at Wendy’s as they wanted fast food and to be IMG_5819honest John and I couldn’t remember when we last had it. They visited Kmart and such shops to get what they wanted, and then that evening we had dinner at the Purple Turtle Restaurant.

IMG_5829Their last full day arrived, we all we into the old town and wandered the venders stalls, checked out the shops, strolled around and ended up having a great lunch at Jen’s Place. Very good food and the IMG_5828service had a sense of humor. John had a roti, he was in bliss! Chrissie and Ivan couldn’t get over the number of jewelers and watch shops as one whole street is lined with them. We did have to wonder if it made any sense to open so many of the same kind of IMG_5840shop down one street ??? Chrissie was very impressed with the venders who were selling black market MK bags. So impressed she had Ivan buy her a bag and a purse! Apparently they are just as good as the real thing, only fake, which nobody else will know.

IMG_5835The afternoon we moved Aeeshah around to the bay next to the airport so we could make the 5am arrival time they had been told to make. Yep, the plane left at 8am, but they were told to be there 3 hours ahead. Unfortunately this anchorage got a fair bit nasty during the night, the seas came up and the roll came in and we had a IMG_5841P1030358short, rough, night’s sleep. Then as we were preparing to dingy ashore to the beach it started to rain. However it was a short shower and other than Ivan wetting his socks on the deck; all the luggage and us were landed safely ready to hike to the airport. It proved to be a short walk and we were there just after the arrival time, but low and behold hardly anyone else was there. The gates were not opened until 6 am, at which time we said a sad farewell and strolled back to Aeeshah.


I asked Chrissie and Ivan for some feed back about their holiday, in the form of a questionnaire and here it is:

Okay here is our completed questionnaire…..

1. What was your first impression of the Virgins?

We were both in awe with its beauty! (Made me think of Bermuda as more of a pancake!) Also the water was stunning….such a deep vibrant blue!

IMG_5606

  1. What did we enjoy most while on board Aeeshah?

The sailing was great! Neither of us had experienced sailing like that so it was a real treat. Infact I enjoyed the sailing so much that I continued to “sail” on land for quite a while after leaving Aeeshah.

P1030168

  1. What did we find the most difficult to adjust to while living on the boat?

I think for me it was figuring out how to flush the toilet…I managed to bust two, yes two toilet handles in under 48hrs after my arrival. Ivan’s was sleep…he had no problem falling asleep, it was the staying asleep that was tricky for him.

P1030166

  1. What did we enjoy the most while ashore?

Being able to experience the culture and way of life in each location we visited. Every place we stopped at was different from each other so it was always exciting and picturesque. The hikes we got to do were all very beautiful…. Especially the one to the “Tourist Trap”!

P1030220

Intermission—– you realize these are loaded questions right?——

  1. What will we never forget?

Oh geeeez, that is tough to narrow down there are quite a few;

-Barry the Barracuda (pet barracuda for two days).

-Getting wet on the dingy every time we went somewhere.

-Tourist Trap.

-Toilet trouble.

-Mom’s toilet plunger laundry technique!

-Realizing Mom and Dad had a forth child (Chico)…..Dad I have seen a new side of you!

-Chico’s reaction to landing a fish on the boat.

-Hearing about Joe and John 10 times a day.

P1030284

  1. What were our favorite excursions/ places?

Oh the Baths for sure, sublime beauty above and below the sea.

DSCN0850

  1. What did we think of the cruising lifestyle?

We were surprised by the amount of people doing the same kinda thing we didn’t realize that there was such a community of cruisers. It’s a really cool way of living….so free…love it, but you must be gutsy!

P1030275

 

  1. What did you find surprising about the lifestyle?

Lol….how quickly you adjust to going long periods of time without a real shower!! Oh and how mom could make such good meals in such a tiny kitchen!!!!!

P1030312

9. What do you miss?

Ivan misses the sunrises and cocktail time (dad’s rum punch). And I miss the relaxation and not having to cook! Lol

P1030314

– Hands down our trip was amazing…unforgettable for sure. Both the U.S. Virgins and the British Virgins were exquisite; we both want to join you again for another adventure! I have some pretty cool parents….we wanna be like you when we grow up. XO

IMG_5531

We left that bay ASAP and motored around to the Crown Bay side where it was calm and we picked IMG_5844up a mooring. John crashed out for a few hours, I tidied up and chilled. IMG_5854Later we set to work on laundry.

Since then we have completed the entire stocking up, cleaning up, refueling, filling up with water and repairs in preparation for the crossing to Bonaire.


Fredrickstad, St Croix.

IMG_5850At present we are back in Fredrickstad, St Croix. This is a wonderful empty IMG_5851anchorage. The beach is 4 miles long, the town is delightfully quaint, the people very friendly and is just the place to wait for a weather window to sail south.

Already we have hiked along the shore side road to the North coast. It was about 4 miles each way and quite lovely. The trees in some areas were just enormous, they must be at least 200 years old. There are ruins of IMG_5858IMG_5860plantations all along the way.

Plus some very unusual compounds. 5 compounds in total that are spread out until the road ends. The signs say, “National Guard section 63 (I think) Weapons of mass destruction & Medical unit” on the 1st gate. Plus all the compounds have signs saying No Trespassing, surveillance cameras, etc…..  Plus these places do have dozens of security cameras, razor wire, barbed wire chain link fences, all the grounds are manicured, but for IMG_5867IMG_5852most of them, there is not a soul in sight! Just a IMG_5888IMG_5921jeep or two. Made me think that these must be some big secret interrogation quarters or debriefing centers or such like. Plus they are in along an unheard of lane, in the middle of nowhere on an IMG_5913IMG_5911obscure US island ……..maybe we have been watching too much of the Homeland series?

We wait now to head to the ABC islands where we will spend the next several months. New territory is exciting! We are sad to say goodbye to our friends, but know we will meet again.

IMG_5846

For the breath of life is in the sunlight and the hand of life is in the wind. …. Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair. – Kahill Gibran

We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. – Mike Robbins

Posted in Noonsite | Leave a comment

St. John, St Thomas, Culebra, Culebrita and Puerto Rico

   PHOTO ALBUM CLICK HERE —->> St John, US Virgins St John The sail to St John from St Croix was memorable because John caught a lovely Mai Mai. He was very happy with the catch and so was Chico. Once … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | Leave a comment

Amazing Saba & Colourful St. Croix

  AMAZING SABA PHOTO LINK—–>>Amazing Saba We finished up most of our planned jobs and as the weather was forecast to be quite mild, (which is unusual for the time of year); we decided to try to visit Saba. We … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | Leave a comment

New Year in St Bart’s, followed by St Maarten

  PHOTO LINK——>> Antigua to St Maarten, January  Before leaving Antigua we went for one last hike, a short one from Piegon beach over the hillside and ridge to Nelsons Dockyard. We went with Gail and Eric and as we … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | Leave a comment

Antigua for the Christmas Season

   From Dominica to Antigua for the Christmas season. PHOTO LINK—->>Dominica, the Saintes and Antigua Dominica We stayed just a few days in Dominica. It was as charming as ever. We had a few walkabouts, met a few folks, shared … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | 1 Comment

Heading northward

  PHOTOS:—>>Union Island, Bequia, St Lucia and northwards we go  2nd set of PHOTOS:—–>>>Martinique  Martinique has been our new home for quite a few days now and we love it. But first our travels here: Union Island Upon arriving at Union … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | Leave a comment

Trinidad to Grenada

  PHOTOS click here —–>>Trinidad and Grenada heading north For some of our last days of our time in Trinidad we hired a car. We were then able to finish provisioning plus visit a few places we wanted to see. … Continue reading

Posted in Noonsite, Weather | 1 Comment

Adventure, fun and work in Trinidad

PHOTO link ——->> Trinidad for September Introducing svAeeshah’s ships cat Chico: We have a new crewmember his name is Chico. He was on FB in Trinidad, as he needed a home. He was lucky enough that two young men drove him … Continue reading

Posted in Weather | Leave a comment

Tobago, family fun and back to Trinny

  Photo Link——>>Tobago, family and back to Trinny John finally arrived back at 5ish. He had waited 1&1/2 hours for a bus, which never arrived, so he had “caught” a ride in a maxi taxi to Scarbourgh at a cost … Continue reading

Posted in Weather | Leave a comment