Aeeshah

 

PHOTOS HERE —>>       https://goo.gl/photos/Gfn54RPAtNboHLXY7

Here we are at the end of September. It is hard to believe another summer has passed. Our September has been quite a mix; with friends we travelled down the Rio aboard Jacques’s lovely 65 foot Fleming trawler to spend a long weekend in Texas Bay. We explored different branches/tributaries of the Rio, went on a day trip to Quirigua an ancient Mayan site, celebrated John’s Birthday and enjoyed several nights out with friends. Plus we had the boat pulled at the beginning of the month, moved into a cabana at Catamaran, worked daily on Aeeshah completing much essential work and had time to enjoy late afternoons in the pool with our buddies at Catamaran. So overall we have been quite busy.

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Texas Bay aboard Atlantic Ranger:

Jacques invited us and Diana and Lane to join him for the weekend at Texas Bay. He had never been, wanted to run his engine, plus there was a lady he was to meet when there.

 

 

 

Anyway, off we set one gorgeous Saturday morning. It really was a magnificent day, the sky deep blue with a few lovely cloud formations, the water was calm and so reflected the sky and mountains, the distant shores were a mix of deep greens from the vegetation on the mountain slopes.

We were one of a number of cruising boats heading into Texas Bay for the weekend as Texas Mike was having a going away dinner on Saturday night and then a big barbeque on the Sunday to celebrate the opening of his new restaurant across the bay. After anchoring we set off to explore the bay, Diana and Lane in the kayaks and John and I with Jacques in the dingy. We enjoyed motoring along the narrow canals through the mangroves, past the homes of the local folks and out to the lake. Most of the weekend was spent this way, exploring by dinghy or kayak, swimming, relaxing aboard Atlantic Ranger listening to Jacques collection of music videos. It as all very enjoyable!

The evening spent at Texas Mike’s was fun as we also met up with other friends and chatted. The food was excellent, both at Texas Mikes and aboard Atlantic Ranger. The local Mayans came around selling their exquisite woven baskets. We each bought a few. Others bought coconut buns, which were great for breakfast. We travelled back on the Monday after all of us having had a wonderful weekend.

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India:

Aeeshah was pulled up at RAM marina at the beginning of the month. We moved into one of the cabanas at Catamaran, one called India. India is a wonderful place to stay. It is at the end of the dock from where we kept Aeeshah.

 

 

 

So now we just leave the dingy alongside the dock outside India. The inside is all varnished wood, even the ceiling. There is a great ceiling fan, AC and quite adequate furnishings. So we are quite comfortable, far more so than if we had tried to stay on the boat in the boatyard and after the work that has been done to Aeeshah, it really would have been near impossible to stay on her for some of the days……more of that later.

Chico was totally confused!

We locked him in India and set off with the boat to RAM, returning much later in the day. Upon being let out Chico walked quickly along the dock towards where Aeeshah his home, had been that morning. He literally looked over the edge of the whole empty dock space as if he thought we had hidden the boat under the dock. Then he promptly jumped onto Lane and Diana’s boat – Dreamsfloat – which was along the other-side of the same dock, as if he wanted to move onboard. Poor fellow he was quite confused. However this only lasted for a short period and he is now very accustomed to living in India and having the whole island at his disposal. To date he has caught and brought in 3 rats, 2 dead and 1 alive, which I promptly chased out of India. He loves being out in the evening and early morning. He visits the pool each late afternoon to watch us as we “swim” and chat with everyone else. He has made friends with all the workers, cruisers and many of the hotel guests. He has even learnt how doors are opened and tries to do the doorknob twist with his paws. Chico is a very adaptable, happy fellow!

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Quirigua Visited:

Quirigua is one of the major testimonies to the Mayan civilization and a visit to this ancient Mayan site was announced on the cruisers net one morning. Fortunately it was scheduled for a day we were free from boat work. A bus was hired for all who wanted to go and we travelled in relative air-conditioned luxury to Quirigua

Quiriqua is completely different from what most people would consider to be a Mayan site. Instead of the iconic tall pyramids, Quirigua has stelaes, – tall stone carvings that have stood for over 1,300 years.

“The monuments, called stelae, contain hieroglyphic texts describing significant calendar dates, celestial events such as eclipses, passages of Maya mythology and political events, as well as important social and historic events to the development of the city.  Not only does this text give a better understanding of the rise and fall of Quirigua, but also describes the span of time between 426 AD to 810 AD making it possible to reconstruct parts of Mayan history. During its brief time of erecting stelae, Quirigua was one of only two cities to regularly erect monuments marking the end of five-year periods.”

The area has been inhabited since approximately 400 BC, which is considered the late pre-classic age of the Mayans. The people who settled in Quirigua are believed to have come from Tikal. At the center of Quiriqua is the Great Plaza, around the Great Plaza, the Ceremonial Plaza and the Plaza of the Temple.

You can see the acropolis, which is perfectly intact and right across from it you can see the sleeping quarters of the city’s rulers. The people of Quiriqua were famed for their jade works. For reasons, which are not clear, Quiriqua entered a period of decline. It is really known at what time this occurred, maybe it was due to the arrival of the European conquerors, or the control of the jade route had been taken over by others more powerful. The city of Quirigua has retained its ruins and vestiges of dwellings but was taken over by the jungle until being “discovered” and restored.

We started the tour with the basic history of Quirigua and then we followed our guide around the plazas, acropolis and the different stelae, of which there are many. The most important monument is Stelae D. It is also the most intact stelae because it was found toppled on the ground. The figure depicted in Stelae D is King K’ak Tilw Chan, who was the “kings of kings” in Quirigua. His claim to fame was his defeat of the rival city of Copan (in Honduras).

The carvings are quite amazing in their intricate details. Plus when you imagine the work that went into detailing the stone it is really incredible! To me one of the amazing features was the ancient tunnel, or underground system of caves and tunnels which apparently leads for miles and miles below the earth to other areas of Guatemala. The Mayans used this as an underground roadway, but it is now sealed off as the drug trafficers had been using it for smuggling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We toured the site for several hours and I enjoyed all of the tour despite the intense heat of the day and being surrounded by jungle with little breeze.

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River tributaries:

John and I had little to do when the boat was 1st hauled and so we explored a few of the river’s tributaries.

 

 

 

We dinged up and explored the areas hoping to find the howler monkeys, which we could occasionally hear. Alas, we never did see the monkeys, but we did find cattle and saw some lovely countryside. Oh and we saw many, many birds.

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John’s Birthday:

Arrived and we were deep into boat work, doing a full working day, so we had thought we would leave any celebration to later sometime.

 

 

 

Well thanks to our friend Peter, who saw the Face book birthday message, a celebration was arranged. Everyone was waiting for John, in the pool, when we returned from working at RAM.

 

It was arranged that we would all then head off to Sundog for an evening of music and dinner. Sundog had several cruisers playing music and singing. The music was songs from the past plus many with a western flavor, quite enjoyable. We all had a good time and John had his Happy Birthday after all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have since enjoyed other musical nights at Sundog with other friends, 2 of which we 1^st met 5 years previously and set out across the Gulf Stream with them.

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Aeeshah hauled:

Aeeshah was hauled on September 2nd and work commenced immediately. All at once we had the mechanic, carpenter, gel coat person, rudder expert, etc looking at what was to be undertaken.

 

It was decided that the bottom had to be striped of all the paint. Why? Well there were multiple layers of paint from multiple years of paint application.

 

 

 

 

 

 

John knew we had a few “blisters” – areas where the bottom was softer due to water. So the first step was sand blasting the bottom. This took several days, and boy

is it messy….. muck was everywhere, but as a result it was found we had many more blisters than John had determined.

Apparently many years before Aeeshah must have had areas patched, but who ever did it did not patch correctly. So the whole lot had to be redone – ground out, left to dry and then re-patched.

The grinding out of the areas took several days. Then they used a device that could read/sense the water within these areas. Of course they read in the red at first. We then had to wait for these areas to “dry” – get into the green.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well nearly a month later and finally our bottom was all more or less in the green zone. The next step was filling the holes; they

were then ground flat and sanded smooth. Next came the sealer coats – 3 of them. Followed by more smoothing by hand sanding, then the bottom coats were applied, 1, 2 and 3. From there comes the new lines at the water line and the sides.

Finally we get to the polishing and lastly the waxing. All this work was by the marina workers who are really incredible in their standard of workmanship and stamina. We have never see such a high standard of work performance!

Meanwhile, Walter – the carpenter created a new worktop to go onto of the stove. He created and erected a new shelf unit. It is made of teak, intricately detailed, stained and varnished so it looks like an original part of the boat.

Walter then rebuilt the cupboard unit under the sink in the aft head. Due to water damage it had begun to fall apart aka rot. His finished work is just amazing! It is made of proper wood and looks the same but, better than the original. Even the Formica is totally matching.

Finally Walter built steps to fit onto our ladder. It had previously had just stainless rungs, which I felt were quite slippery and dangerous. Again he did an exemplary job. In my book Walter is the best carpenter.

The rudder had been dropped and was to be refitted with the same bushing, but this time around our mechanic advised affixing it with fiberglass.

The engine mounts were to be replaced by him too, but John went ahead and did the job, as he needed work. John also replaced the aft head plumbing, a dreadfully smelly, disgusting job, but it had to be done as it was totally clogged up. Plus John did numerous other maintenance jobs that had been left.

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile I repaired and remade canvas/sunbrella pieces. Many zips needed replacing and seams needed re-stitching. We also had new dingy chaps made, (cover for dingy), but the canvas man we chose took quite a while to get started and even longer to finish. He did do a great job though.

And we had the anchors and chain re-galvanized too!

Our intention is to get the cockpit cushions covered, plus a cover made for the entire bow, but we will go to another canvas man for those jobs. As of writing now we are very close to being back in the water with Aeeshah.

There are only moments. Live in this one. The happiness of these days. – Kate Millett

I am sure there are other versions of happiness, but this one is mine. – Lynsey Addario

 

PHOTOS part 1 CLICK HERE —>>  https://goo.gl/photos/P51pEgM1AZsj2wAYA

PHOTOS part 2 CLICK HERE —>> https://goo.gl/photos/SqmH1hAqnivmiWQs7

As mentioned: when we arrived back at Catamaran Chico was straight off the boat and into the gardens. Following him were Ethan and Rhianna to the pool. We have a daily routine by which the people that are staying in catamaran all meet up in the pool at 3:30 onwards. There we relax and enjoy conversation. Then it was off to the restaurant for some delicious pizza.

 

 

 

The following day poor Rhianna had the dreaded stomach bug that usually is attributed to eating something disagreeable. We were not sure if it was the pizza or that she swallowed pool water.

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Casa Guatemala

Ethan and Re had brought with them some clothing that was to be donated to a worthy cause; I decided it was time to deliver everything. So off Ethan and I set for a place down the river called Casa Guatemala, a home for needy children. Upon arriving we were greeted by the staff in the administration building by the dock. They had limited English and so called a volunteer – Kimmy – who spoke English. We were thanked for the donation and asked if we wanted to have a look around.

The home is for 250 children who come from Mayan families that live in the nearby mountains and are unable to support them. By that these families are termed as ones that are living with absolute poverty. The home feeds them, educates them, and trains them with crafts and trades. Teaches them how to farm, cook, and have most practical skills they need for a successful life back with their families. Most of the children travel back to their families for holidays. They ranged in age from 4 – 14 and were 1/2 girls and 1/2 boys. The children were on break time from their lessons when we visited. They were all quite happily playing or chatting, some little boys were making jewelry form natural objects, and others were helping in the kitchen or with the younger children. Ethan and I were impressed.

The next day when Rhianna was feeling much better John and she bought a sack of tortia flour, rice and black beans. They then delivered the food and had a tour too. Again they were very impressed with Casa Guatemala.

 

Rhianna said, “Pappa and I went to the market and picked up some rice, beans and flour for the orphanage kids. When we went the kids were all watching a movie. We had a look around their cabins and where they slept. It was cool to see how people who don’t have much live. They came over and asked us our names and where we were from. They seemed pretty fascinated by my teeth. (Re has braces)

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Rio Dulce Bridge

The next outing we ventured was a walk over the Rio Dulce Bridge. John and I had been and found it enjoyable. Off we went up the bridge, only to stop just 100 feet up as we could see a parade assembling below. There appeared to be beauty contestants of differing ages atop a truck that was decorated with flowers. There were several bands of teens playing instruments and again all different music, clowns and various other groups of people assembled. After peering down on the entertainment for 5 minutes we set off again over the bridge. It really is a very nice walk with great views across Rio Dulce.

Down the other side we went to Mar Marina and then Backpackers Hostel where we had a refreshing Lemonada. The walk back was less entertaining but still good.

 

 

 

 

Rhianna: “ Today was very exhausting. We walked across the biggest bridge!”

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Boqueron canyon (El Boqueron), on Lago de Izabal

The Río Sauce cuts through the landscape creating the impressive Cañón El Boquerón, or so I read and thought – another outing for us. We got another collective mini bus out of Fronteras and along with our buddy Peter set off to explore this canyon/gorge. This particular collective driver must have been trying to see how many people he could fit in, as the maximum total should be 11, but we ended up with 21 passengers!! Plus one guy on top. It was just crazy, folks hanging out the door and the driver was paying more attention to his phone than the road. Anyway we survived.

Arriving at the river we found that one of the locals will paddle you upstream for about 800 m where I had heard you could swim with the current all the way down the canyon. However as there had been so much rain from the hurricane in northern Guatemala/Belize the river was flowing very fast and was carrying debris – not ideal circumstances. The paddle upriver through the gorge was lovely and quite spectacular.

It’s a deep canyon with lots of old man’s beard and vines hanging down, strange rock formations with differing colouring line the shoreline cliffs. There are supposed to be Howler monkeys, but not that day. We climbed out the canoe into the fast flowing river and clambered up and over the rocks and boulders. The water was lovely and cool. None of us were really prepared for a swim, but we all ended up in the water just soaking ourselves. It was a fun experience, but would have been better a outing when the water was clearer and less of a torrent.

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Finca Xobel

As we couldn’t travel to Belize, we devised a new plan …. A few days spent at place located in a semi remote location. The name of the place: Finca Xobel, which was located near Poptun, on the road to Tikal. We set off early on the 7:30 launcha from Catamaran. We walked with our large backpacks to Bruno’s and had another delicious breakfast and then headed to the bus. We did the usual wait for a bus to arrive and much to our disappointment there was standing room only!! 2 hours later we finally arrived at our destination. It wasn’t so bad as at least we could look out the windows with this bus. The countryside was lovely, lush green fields, rounded hillocks and the local farms passed by as we travelled.

At a checkpoint nearing the end of the ride, Rhianna and I secured a vacated seat at last and the driver asked where we were headed. Consequentially he then stopped the bus at the end of the driveway for Finca Xobel, our destination. From there we had just a 10-minute walk to the eco resort.

Finca Xobel advertises itself as “We are an eco friendly hotel and campground located in the foothills of the Mayan mountains at an elevation of 600 Meters. We are in the northern region of Guatemala, less than 5 kilometers south of the town of Poptún, in a unique setting of pine forest and jungle.”

 

 

 

 

 

We were not disappointed the grounds were just beautiful! We passed fir forested pastures where horses were grazing on such green lush grass. Re was particularly excited as she had been promised horse riding. Unfortunately the clouds were moving in and there was the usual rumble of thunder. We were checked into our tree house – Jupiter. It contained 2 double beds with mosquitoes nets and a pull out single bed, small but adequate. The porch had a hammock and some rudimentary furniture. A rustic accommodation for our 4-day stay.

We had a very nice lunch and then took a walk around the grounds, which are awesome! There is a natural swimming hole – pond I’d call it – after our walk we went for a refreshing swim. It really is refreshing as the swimming hole is fed by a stream that runs across the property the water is quite cool. Dinner was an excellent buffet.

 

Our horse ride was at 9:00 the next morning. Rhianna was very excited. We had an excellent ride of 2 hours through the pine forest, across lush grassy fields and up hillsides, through streams and some jungle.

 

 

My horse chose his own route, so I left him to it and just took photos. Of course he stopped to have a bite to eat as well and then we would do a bit of a trot to catch up. We all mainly walked, but did some trotting and Re got to do a short canter, which really pleased her.

 

 

Re said: “This morning we went on a very long nice horse ride through the hillsides. My horse was Bronzo. Bronzo was a beautiful chestnut, but naughty. He would come to a halt every 5 minutes and then trot to catch up.”

After returning to the tree house we found tics! John who had worn shorts had them in his legs, I had them crawling on my trousers and Re seemed to escape the tics. Anyway as we’re practiced in tic removal we were well able to rid ourselves of the varmints.

That afternoon we had signed up for a cave tour. There were a group of 3 French-Canadian female back-packers who were also coming along too. Not really knowing what was in store for us we were given 2 guides and set out towards the pine forest again. We were told the pathways had not been used in a while and this proved to be true. We hiked through waist high grass, down very muddy lanes and up slippery slopes for an hour and finally on the side of a hill we arrived at a cave entrance. It was a magnificent cave! There were massive columns, stalactites and stalagmites throughout.

We had to climb down inside and move carefully from cavern to cavern around crystal clear pools of water and through mucky floors – which I thought was probably a mix of bat droppings too.

Some of the caverns were several stories high and at one point you could look down on an underground river that runs through the cave.

Rhianna responded: “ The cave was soooo big! Ethan and I were intimidated by the cave spiders”

Very few folks get to see this cave as it is on

private land, so it was quite untouched. For an hour we explored the cave system and then back we hiked to Fincal Xobel. We were all covered in mud, our shoes were just caked, what a mess we all were, but it had been great fun!

 

We had another relaxing evening in our tree house and another excellent dinner that evening.

Next morning we were booked to go to what were called River Pools. The driver pulled up in a Land Rover in we piled and off we drove to an area near Popgun – Las Conchas waterfalls – where the river flowed over rapids that formed pools. It was another beautiful area.

We all enjoyed swimming in the refreshingly cool water. It left you feeling so ultra clean after an hour or so. I enjoyed exploring the river’s shore taking photos. The other 3 were trying to slide down the rapids, which was fine for them as they were wearing shorts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Re said, “Papa and Ethan of course had to go and try and slide down them. I went to give it a try and of course that didn’t end well.”  We spent the entire morning there and then our driver took us back to Fincal Xobel.

Our last afternoon was spent relaxing and wandering around the lovely grounds of Fincal Xobel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then it was back to Rio Dulce for the last days of Ethan

and Rhianna’s visit. Unfortunately for Ethan and myself one of those days was spent suffering from the dreaded stomach bug. Their last days in Rio Dulce were spent catching up on their schoolwork and such, plus they enjoyed the pool daily and had another movie night. This movie night was aboard Peter’s boat. We all shared pizza, chicken and salad followed by the movie “Solo around the Americas” by Matt Rutherford. It was a great night.

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Antigua

We were off to spend a few days in Antigua before Ethan and Rhianna flew back to Bermuda. Only problem being John was now ill with the dreaded stomach bug and he had it bad. So the three of us set off alone on Monday August 15th on the 8:00am bus for Antigua via Guatemala City. After the bus ride down the teens were dreading the return journey, but as it turned out it was easy peasy.

 

We arrived in Antigua after 2 buses and 1 taxi ride to our hotel. We were staying in Uxlabil Galeria, which is an eco hotel. It was really an old, old, home that had been converted into a small 9-room hotel. Our room was on the top floor, had an open covered porch outside our door, which led to the roof. The view from the roof was amazing! Ahead we had the Volcan de Agua and around the other peaks. Our bathroom also looked out towards the volcano. We were all very happy with the room.

 

 

 

 

The three of us set off to stretch our legs and get aquatinted with Antigua. We found our hotel was ideally situated, just up from the Iglesias La Merced and not far from the Parque Central – the main square. Antigua is just delightful; its lanes are still original with the large cobblestones. The buildings too are untouched from when they were originally built.

 

Antigua is at an elevation of 5,029 feet (1,533 meters). The old city is known for its magnificent setting at the base of the surrounding volcanoes. Its spring like climate means that the weather is very comfortable. This was noted by Ethan who said he could walk all day in the Antigua climate.

 

 

Having been the capital of the former captaincy general, Antigua was once the most important seat of Spanish colonial government between Mexico City and Lima, Peru. It was founded as Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala in 1527 and it was destroyed by an eruption that swept down from the slopes of Volcán de Agua 

(“Volcano of Water”). The village that became reestablished on the site came to be called Ciudad Vieja (“Old City”). Antigua is noted chiefly for the ruins of colonial edifices, many of which were churches and monasteries that make it a museum of Spanish colonial history and an UNESCO World Heritage site.

 

 

 

For our first day in Antigua and as I was alone with the teens, I felt I needed to be somewhat imaginative to keep them “entertained” so decided on a walking tour, which I turned into a “hunt” or “ navigate our way to the different sites like a treasure hunt”. I’m sure if I’d said Nana wants to visit all the ruins, churches and such they would have revolted, however the “hunt” for our trail worked really well.

We set off by getting a taxi to Cerro de la Cruz. Cerro de la Cruz provides fan excellent view looking south over town toward Volcán de Agua. The prominent cross at the head of the lookout point is devoted to the Antigua’s patron saint. Ethan and Rhianna were very impressed with the view; they both said it was awesome!

 

 

We left and walked down the wooded pathway back towards the old city. I was a bit apprehensive as there had been some muggings along this path, so we timed our decent with a large group of fairly fit looking folks.

 

 

From the bottom we followed our Lonely Planet route. Instructions said: “At bottom turn right, down a cobbled street. You’ll come to a basketball court backed by the ruins of Iglesias de la Candelabra.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we were told to go left along a high yellow wall to glimpse the Templo de Santa Rosa de Lima a small church on private grounds.

 

From there we were directed to: Converto Capuchinas, with its unique tower, a convent that cared for orphans and women in the 1700s but was badly damaged in the volcanic explosion.

 

 

The Iglesia El Carmen, and the handicraft market were our next stops.

Followed by, Converto de Santa Teresa and Iglesias y Converto de Santa Clara just a few of the convents and churches all kept in excellent condition.

 

 

It was nearing lunchtime we were close to Iglesias de Nuestra Señora de La Merced, which is close to our hotel. This church and monastery was not as badly damaged by the volcanic eruption. We wandered around the old monastery and then into the church. It really is a magnificent church.

Ethan applied some Holy water on Rhianna’s head, both were somewhat uncomfortable wandering around the church, not being used to churches they found it unnerving, – so they said.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a lunch break we hit the trail again. Walking to the Calle Del Arco and under Arco de Santa Catalina, which was built as part of the 17th century Convent of Santa Catalina Virgin and Martyr, was for “imprisonment”, which means that its nuns avoided contact with people of the city in general. They could walk over the arch/bridge from the convent to the church without having any contact. It again is a lovely street with the quaint buildings, shops and vendors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end there is the Parque Central where we were instructed to ascend to the balcony of the Palacio del Ayuntamiento to see the square from above. From there we walked the square seeing the Catedral de Santiago and various other historic buildings. It was then time to return to our hotel to meet John, who had felt well enough to travel that day to Antigua.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next day we explored the lanes and alleyways on our way to the market.

 

 

 

 

 

Just expecting a regular market we were surprised by its size. It is a huge market where you can find absolutely everything and anything. We spent the rest of the morning walking the tiny alleyways between the different vendors looking at the rich variety of produce and merchandise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afterwards we found our way via several alleyways to the craft market. Here we all enjoyed looking at the beautiful crafts for sale. The textiles are just wonderful. The workmanship is excellent. I just loved all the colorful fabrics, masks and bags.

 

 

 

 

John took Ethan and Rhianna to the airport at 4:30am the next morning, it was time for them to head home. Afterwards we enjoyed Antigua for a few hours and then headed into Guatemala City for our bus back to the Rio the following day.

 

 

 

 

 

“The question is not what you look at—but how you look and whether you see.” – Henry David Thoreau

 

PHOTOS link here –>> https://goo.gl/photos/9DkRP97tDkXSgcPP7

Grand teens in Guatemala for a month:

After carefully planning and booking the hotels and buses we set off for Guatemala City to meet Ethan and Rhianna for their annual summer vacation with us. The bus was leaving at 9:30, but we got the 7:30 launcha from Catamarans’ into the town and had breakfast at Bruno’s. Plus the swap meet was on at Bruno’s and John wanted to see what was on offer. Turned out, nothing of much value was at the swap meet.

On the bus we had seats at the front, but this makes little difference to being able to look out as the front windows, (except where the driver sits), are curtained closed. I found it quite claustrophobic with only a side window to look out. Anyway we were off. This is quite a long ride for someone who rarely travels by bus, but you soon settle in. The first half was through farming areas with crops of various types and cattle. There was a movie to watch, American movie in Spanish some sort of comedy, which John seemed to like. I just gazed out the window at the passing scenery. After 2 & 1/2 hours we stopped at a lay by with a canteen where we could purchase all types of foods, which smelt and looked great. Off again we went towards Guatemala City, this section of the drive was into and up the mountains where we could see that areas of extensive road work and mining was taking place. Finally we arrived in Guatemala City finding we had to change busses from our big one to a smaller one, as they do not allow the larger busses in the city. Then it was a taxi to the hotel…. 6 hours of travel for about 200 miles, whew!

The next morning we visited a Guatemala City Wal-Mart to see what was there. When we were riding in a taxi back to our hotel there was: BANG! An explosion and smoke rising on the left side of the taxi as he swerved across the road. No it wasn’t a gunshot. More or less instantly a cop appeared, the taxi driver tried his best to move the car just reaching the curb where he apologized and waved down another taxi for us, apparently John said the left front brake had seized, over heated causing the wheel to seize and us to skid.

Off we went in another taxi to meet Ethan and Rhianna at the airport arrivals. Their plane was early, we discovered that at Guatemala airport nobody but the travelers can enter, so we had to wait for them outside on the sidewalk. We waited and waited; it seemed hundreds of passengers with their baggage poured out, but no Rhianna and Ethan. After an hour and the airport appearing near empty we finally saw them. They told us that one of their bags had been lost and the lady in charge of lost luggage, Sandra, would not let them through till it was located, which it finally was in Miami. They then arranged for the bag to be flown in that night and delivered to our hotel. Finally they were through and we dropped their only bag off – it actually contained clothes for donation to an orphanage. We all went for a walk and spent the rest of what was left of the day at a nearby mall, of course they did enjoy a Big Mac there.

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The next morning we caught the 9:00am bus to Rio Dulce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

At about an hour from Guatemala City we encountered a hold up. This was in the mountains – where they were doing some “road works” and mining. Well the hold up lasted 3 hours! Our bus literally sat more or less in the same spot for 3 hours! There was time to watch 2 cruddy movies, which were played in Spanish, (I read and watched all the traffic squeezing past and cutting in line ahead). Now in Guatemala road works means pushing anything not wanted off the edges of the roads and down onto the slopes below. While mining seems to mean digging up everywhere, with no retaining walls or such. Huge diggers and equipment just working or parked precariously on huge mounds of soil or massive boulders. So above us we had the mining around us we had road works and traffic. The traffic was mainly made up of massive trucks, as there are no trains all produce is carried by road. Oh and the roads are single lane, but as Ethan noted here the 18 wheeler drivers seem to have an uncanny knack for squeezing passed and making 2 lanes into 3. Another notable point was there were venders wandering up and down in and out of the traffic selling foods, cold drinks, snacks and such. So this indicates that these traffic hold ups are the norm.

Finally we moved off and then the rain arrived, torrential rain and we had trees in the road to get around. When finally we were in Rio Dulce, (in the rain), we managed to secure a ride on a launcha – that’s a river taxi – arriving at last at Catamaran at 8:00pm. It was a long tedious day. Rhianna: “We had the longest ever bus ride of my life, and the longest I will probably ever have”.

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Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce

The next day we spent introducing Ethan and Rhianna to Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce. Their reaction was complete surprise to what they saw, it really is quite an incredible “town” you could see just about anything at anytime. Re said: “It was very unexpected. Cars – not afraid to hit anyone. Trucks – carrying cows, around dozens in each truck. Motor bikes – carrying children around of any age, some even driving the bikes!” Re was freaked out by all the guns the rancheros and that the security people were carrying. Now she doesn’t even look twice, Ethan said he was shocked by how vibrant and colorful the town is, “its better than watching a movie as its the real thing.”

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Castillo San Felipe

Castillo San Felipe was where we first went exploring. This is a Spanish colonial fort at the entrance to Lake Isobel.

 

 

Lake Izobel is a large 25/5 miles lake at the head of the Rio Dulce. The fort was strategically situated at the narrowest point on the river to protect the Spanish ships against marauding pirates. The Spanish used the Castillo de San Felipe for several centuries, during which time it was destroyed and looted several times by the pirates. We dingied there – it is 2.5 miles from Catamaran Marina. We had an excellent morning exploring this wonderful, well-preserved Castillo, which is also a World Heritage site.

Rhianna: “Today was so much fun! We went to a very large fort, with many caves within it. The fort had an underground entrance to the prison which we went and explored. It had many large towers mainly where the cannons were placed.” After which we went to Sundog for a very tasty lunch.

 

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Finca Paraiso

Friday I had planned for us, along with a friend Peter to get a collective – that’s a small mini bus that travels a route picking up and dropping off the locals – to go to Finca Paraiso, our first adventure. We had breakfast at Bruno’s where we leave the dingy, found the correct collective, by walking the street and asking, squeezed in and were off. The driver let us off and pointed to the lane to follow.

There some little girls ran up from a village by the river with some coconuts. They very quickly used their large sharp knives to hack the top open, popped a straw in for us. We “bought” 2 for 10Q – $1.50. They were chilled and very refreshing, only Ethan dared to have a sip.

Down the lane through the trees we hiked and found the falls. Rhianna: “We went to a super cool waterfall! One side of the waterfall was pouring out the coldest water ever and the other side was pouring out the hottest water ever!”

Finca Paraiso is a unique place. There is a hot river spring, which runs and meets a cold/normal river; they merge at the falls, which drop 12m into a turquoise pool below. So under the falling water there can be warm to hot water, then just off a ways you get cold water. Plus you can go under the falls to a small caves where it’s steamy. The area is very scenic. There were only us 5 plus a few other folks there,  we had a wonderful morning swimming, playing in the falls and climbing the rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most days we go off to purchase our different foods. The teens have such differing reactions to the town. Ethan finds it very entertaining and interesting while Re seems quite intimidated by the sites and smells. We stocked up on what we hoped would be enough foods for our trip down the Rio Dulce.

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Our trip down the Rio Dulce.

Texas Bay was our first destination down the river. John and I had found it incredibly beautiful when we stopped in there several weeks prior. Ethan’s reaction was it was a lovely, peaceful, place with wonderful scenery. Re reported: “The scenery was quite incredible!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our friend Jacque had loaned us 2 kayaks, which were just wonderful to paddle around the narrow canals and the waterways of the area. We all explored and toured the numerous mangrove tunnels, lily ponds, small lakes and neighborhoods of the whole area which covers several squares miles at least.

Rhianna: “When we went for a kayak ride down the river I had a massive spider fall down onto the kayak. After screaming Papa knocked it off.”

 

 

 

The locals and some forigners have their homes right in the mangroves. I couldn’t live like that as I’d be a meal for the mosquitoes, but they seem unaffected by the no-see-ums and mossies. There is a small bar and restaurant there run by an American and his local wife. We went for dinner on our second night and despite the bug repellant I was bitten all over my feet and legs by the beasts. Re also was bitten, but I seemed to be the main meal. No I’d never live in or around the mangroves.

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Agua Caliente

Close to Texas Bay is the hot sulphur springs and limestone caves. We dingied to the area through the mangrove canals on our second day and had a tour. It is located just as the walls of the gorge reach the lake of El Golfette. Now the pathway leads uphill through the jungle to a small cave entrance. Here our guide showed us the way deep into the network of limestone caves and passages. Some places we climbed right under having to nearly crawl, other places were narrow and we had to squeeze by. He showed us stalactites, stalagmites and columns explaining in Spanish how they are formed. Re and Ethan were able to translate much of what he said and John and I really did pick up much of the explanation too. The guide showed us where the tunnel leads to a huge chamber, where there are fossils and took a picture of us there. Then he finished up by showing us the bats hanging at the entrance.

From there we went to the hot spring, which is referred to as a sauna. Again we trekked through the jungle to a cave entrance. Here only a few at time could enter, so I went in with Ethan and Rhianna. Well it was as hot as hell! Instantly you are covered in sweat, just melting, dripping, unbelievably hot. The teens climbed down the ladder to the hot water pooled below and found it boiling. They quickly exited; I stayed and climbed down with John to feel the water. It’s only hot on the surface and then cold underneath, thus forming all the steam billowing upwards. When I exited the cave it was into what felt like air conditioning even though the temperature was in the 90s. Apparently I looked like I had been swimming, I was that wet. Rhianna: We went to the hot springs today and into caves where there were bats. In the caves we followed the pathways and had a ton of fun. Just below the caves there were hot springs. The hot springs were so hot that I had to leave straight away!

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Down the gorge…

We had an excellent several days in Texas Bay, but there was no wifi. Yes, the teens survived without using their phones. Our plan had always been to get to Livingstone for July 30th, stay the night, ride the high tide across the bar and head to Belize for a short visit and to snorkel the reefs. We enjoyed a wonderful trip through the gorge. Both Rhianna and Ethan were as in awe of the journey as everyone is who makes it. It really is just incredibly beautiful and absolutely amazing to do the trip on a sailboat with the gorge at your sides.

Arriving in Livingstone we had a signal! But the news was not good. Unfortunately forming off the Eastern Caribbean area were 2 questionable areas. One of which did just today, 5 days later pass over Belize and skirted southern Guatemala. The trip was called off. Showing them the weather charts, explaining the outcome of what could happen they accepted the news that the Belize trip not possible.

Livingstone

 

We visited the town of Livingstone, which again is a very different place. Livingston is noted for its unusual mix of Garifuna people’s and their traditions. All the black communities living on the Caribbean coast of Central America are commonly called Garifuna or Black Carib, or as they refer to themselves, Garinagu.

Re had her hair braided. We were followed all through the town, to the playas and encouraged by a very large lady to get Re’s hair braided. What started off as just 2 braids turned into a full head weave. “Cause she has too much hair for two” she told us. Anyway Re had wanted her hair done for the past few years and now it has happened, looks lovely and she is much cooler. Rhianna: Livingstone is a very lively place, and I guess thats where its name came from. Today I got my hair braided into 8 braids. It looks very nice. We went through the markets and picked up a few groceries.” 

We had an excellent lunch, explored all over the town, showed the teens the local laundry, which shocked them, went back to the boat and headed back up river.

 

 

 

Our last night we anchored off a small island at the beginning of the Golfete Lake.

It was lovely and peaceful. Again we were visited by children in dugouts they had baskets and little carved boats for sale. Ethan had bought one beautiful basket at Texas Bay. He bought his sister another lovely basket, I chose another and John purchased a boat. The craftsmanship is amazing and at only 20Q apiece they are amazingly inexpensive. We gave the children a lolli pop, each which seemed to make them very happy.

Back at Rio Dulce we tied up at Catamaran. No sooner than we touched the dock Chico was off the boat, onto the dock and heading off. His attitude was one of, “thank goodness that trip is over now let me enjoy myself”. We enjoyed getting our ton of laundry cleaned and stocking up on fresh supplies. Believe it or not one half of their visit was nearly over!

 

 

How we pay attention to the present moment largely determines the character of our experience and, therefore, the quality of our lives. – Sam Harris

Not only is your story your truth, your story is going to be the platform and the foundation for everything that’s getting ready to happen in your life.  – DeVon Franklin

 

PHOTOS HERE –>>  Up the Rio Dulce, Guatemala or https://goo.gl/photos/n9c9pUZjJMq7x6Ax7

On July 3rd we were headed to Rio Dulce along with a group of 4 other boats, Dutch, Canadian and American folks we had met in Utila. Why all together? We all needed the same super high tide of the 4th July 06:45 hours in order to pass over the bar that is at the Rio Dulce’s mouth.

This was an over night passage that took us just 20 miles off the Honduras coast. John and I plus the Dutch boat Rafiki gave the reefs off of Utila a wide berth. We had been told that while the charts show depths of 100feet they were not accurate.

Two of the other boats chose to sail into the sun and through the reefs/banks off the Utila coast – why? Because they were foolish and sure enough one of them hit a reef. They were momentarily on the reef and then, luckily for them released with minimal damage.

The passage for us was more or less a straightforward downwind sail that went well arriving off the coast of Guatemala around 5:00am. The seas had been very rough and it seemed everything inside the boat was thrown around; there was a big mess below. The wind was up to 30knots and blowing into where we were, but we tucked in and anchored off Cabo Tres Puntas ready for our 4th July early morning assault of the Rio Dulce bar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a restful day and night we arose in time to motor across towards the Rio’s entrance. As it got closer we could see Livingstone the settlement on the side with the entrance to the river behind. Nothing is ever as one imagines. To me the Rio and immediate area looked much larger than imagined.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had been given way-points, (co-ordinates), of the best line of approach and way to cross over the bar. As we lined up and followed the points the depth got more and more shallow, it was like tucking our tummy in to squeeze over a fence. The depth went to 0.00 and stayed there with the depth alarm sounding for a good 4 minutes and then it got deeper and deeper again. We were over!

 

 

 

 

Along with all the boats we set off with. Two other boats that arrived a later and did not seem to follow the same tracks got stuck on the bar, but with a coordinated effort between them freed themselves and did eventually cross.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our agent Raul came out to us along with the authorities. It was very easy entering the country all we had to do was hand over our documents and sign a few papers. After about three minutes they left for the next boat leaving instruction to visit Raul’s office for our finalized paperwork.

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Livingstone is quite unlike anywhere else we had traveled to, this largely Garifuna town is fascinating in itself. The town Livingstone is called ‘Buga’ – mouth – in Garifuna, for its position at the river mouth.

 

 

Unconnected by road from the rest of the country it does however have cars and trucks that have arrived via barges and are just used in Livingstone to drive around the few streets delivering goods. They say that if everyone is on the road in their vehicles at the same time there is a halt in the movement of traffic as the roads are totally jammed. Boat transportation has to be quite good here as it is the only form of transport and you can get up river, to Belize, the cays and Puerto Barrios with a minimum of fuss. We enjoyed walking around exploring the few streets taking in the colourful sites and buying wonderful fruit.

Once our paperwork was cleared we up anchored and headed towards the entrance of the river gorge.

 

 

 

           

Every hurricane season hundreds of cruisers check into Guatemala and make the trek to the hurricane-safe environment the river provides. This year I am told 1,200 boats/cruisers are somewhere on this river. Now we too were 1 of these cruising boats heading up river.

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John and I really feel that few cruising experiences are more stunning than a trip up the riverfrom Livingston. Cliff walls of limestone 500 feet tall flank the gorge sides whittled away by the Rio’s water flow over millions of years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trees of numerous types have taken root on the rocky cliffs with first one and then the other reaching higher and higher upwards to gain the light of the sun.  Thick vines and tendrils from some trees plummet in the opposite direction to the water.  On every other tree branch, huge bromeliads and purple orchids spring outward.  White herons dot the deep green foliage as they bob lazily on limbs; cormorants air their wings and rest atop sunken logs. It is quiet, but for the sound of the birds singing, breathtakingly beautiful, mystifying and inviting.

Looking across the water against the dramatic backdrop, you can spot fishermen quietly huddled in their Cayucos (dugout canoes), some others of them standing to throw nets, while others of them are tucked under the bottom canopy of overhanging branches.  They lower and raise hand-fishing lines connected to something that will float, a piece of Styrofoam or a plastic bottle.  Patiently they wait in the hopes of catching a perch or better yet a Robalo. Then a river taxi will fly by carrying visitors up or down river to their destinations.

As we slowly made our way up the Rio around the bends and u turns we took photos and videos trying to capture the magnificence of our surroundings. Our journey from the mouth to Texas Bay where we stopped for the night was about 10 miles and took us just over 2 hours, but time seemed to fly as it was quite the incredible journey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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At Texas Bay we were again surprised by being able to wind our way into a secluded almost lagoon type anchorage – it was like being anchored in a large pond. There we found a number of friends anchored too, Steve and Anna on Bad Kitty and Rian and Rob on their friend Jeff’s boat. Everyone was there for the promised celebration of dinner and fireworks at the Texas Bay bar.

 

 

John and I explored in the dingy the surrounding canals and mangrove areas connecting to the main river and tributaries. Again it was just incredibly beautiful, all the different trees, flowers, butterflies, dragonflies, vines hanging down into the water, the water lilies along the surface and all reflected on the water’s surface. For a photographer there is a feast of images!

The indigenous people have dark, raven, hair and the warm caramel skin of the Mayan heritage.  When passing their thatched wooden homes that are built on stilts over the water, they are hesitant to openly gesture or gawk. However once you smile and wave in their direction, they respond in kind. The children appear to be very happy playing, swimming and fishing in the Rio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sailboat Rafiki that we had traveled with from Utila arrived and together we enjoyed the evening at the Texas Bay bar. As it was a special occasion a pig had been roasted. It was delicious! Fireworks went off in spurts, the local children were totally enthralled by the firework display. It was a great 1st evening on the Rio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Off we went the next morning, from Texas Bay the journey changes as you cross El Golfete a 9 nautical mile long lake. The morning we crossed the lake was a perfect sailing breeze/wind. So up went the jib and off we sailed smoothly across the flat surface of the lake. Just incredible to think we were way inland in Guatemala sailing across a lake.

 

 

 

Towards the end of the lake we curved in our passage around a few islets, down a dogleg and arrived in Rio Dulce marina zone. The marinas are on both sides of the river with the large Rio Dulce Bridge with the town of Fronteras at the end and El Relleno at the other. Under the bridge and on the other side are several more marinas and finally Lago de Izabal/Lake Isobel.

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We chose to anchor in Ensenada Nana Juana, which is the area where several of the larger marinas – RAM Marina and yacht club and Nana Juana – can be found. Our reasoning was that we needed to check the area and the marinas before we decided where to base our

 

 

 

selves. We had been advised by friends about the different marinas, but we needed to see for ourselves if there was one that would suit Chico, plus have faculties for Ethan and Rhianna who were soon to arrive for a month.

Off to visit the town we went and what a surprise it is when you first arrive. The town of Fronteras AKA Rio Dulce lives up to its name and is a real “frontier” town with stalls selling every imaginable item, spilling over the pavement and into the road. Along the narrow roadway, (just 1 lane in each direction with plenty of potholes), travel giant articulated trucks, jostling with little 3-wheel “Tuc Tuc” taxis, bikes loaded with 4 plus passengers, old cars and mini vans serving as collective buses. The stereos blare music, and there are people of every type everywhere. It is a town that is always entertaining to visit, as there is just so much to watch, really anything and everything could and does happen in Fronteras. John and I were well impressed. What a vibrant place to spend several months!

Next we visited several marinas along the river. There are stores, restaurants and marinas, which can only be reached from the river. We were impressed with all the marinas we visited. The marina we had previously been thinking of staying at was on the other side of the bridge. We decided that there was just no chance of a breeze in that area, many of the others seemed to have masses of mosquitoes, which I am reluctant to have around if avoidable. We chose Catamaran Hotel and Marina as our base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Catamaran Hotel and Marina is just wonderful! Our friends Gillian and Gordon off N’Aimless had recommended this marina and it really is the best one for us. We have a side tie, it’s quiet, with lovely gardens, a pool that is partly shaded in the afternoon, a bar, restaurants, cabanas over the water and most importantly is safe for Chico to wander around, (all for only $200 a month).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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John and I also dinged to town and walked to and over the Rio Dulce bridge one morning. Which incidentally, I believe the US Army Corp. of Engineers were contracted to build. They did a magnificent job. The view from the top is spectacular looking down and out across the Rio in both directions. Of course, in true Guatemalan fashion, vendors have set up shop at the top selling all sorts of drinks and eats. Tour buses and cars stop for tourists to take photos. Can you imagine the authorities allowing that on a freeway or motorway bridge? We loved the views and happened upon Steve and Anna strolling across the bridge too.

 

 

 

Meanwhile John had employed 3 fellows to polish the stainless steel on Aeeshah. These young men were very inexpensive to hire, worked for less than 2 full days, polished the stainless until it was like brand spanky new. Even the inside of the barbecue was shining like new. It was just amazing!

Before we knew it the time had arrived to travel to Guatemala City to meet Rhianna and Ethan arriving July 18th.

 

“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.”  – William Arthur Ward

“If you are lucky enough to find a way of life you love, you have to find the courage to live it.”  – John Irving

 

PHOTOS HERE–>>  Utita, Honduras Bay islands

Utila

Was just a half-day sail away from Roatan and we had a lovely sail there. In Utila we 1st anchored away from the main Harbour as our cruising guide had suggested. That was not good info as the bay had wind and seas coming right into the bay with us backing on the reef. Yes, lovely location but risky.

 

 

 

We moved the next morning to Puerto Este – East Harbour. Steve on catamaran Bad Kitty had warned us that the holding was not good – he had dragged. Sure enough later in the afternoon just when the wind blew up to 39knots our anchor dragged. It was action stations, me on the bow in the wind and rain getting the snubber off the anchor chain, John at the helm trying to keep us into the wind. He said it was tough as the wind really had us and we were just whipping along sideways. Anyway we got ourselves re-anchored and secure again, we hoped.

Utila is a delightful island. Its main and only town is Puerto Este – East Harbour. We had an access dock at Bush’s Grocery store, which was excellent for supplies too.

We explored the town and part of the shoreline over the bridge. The town is full of interesting family stores selling everything you could need. A quaint, tidy, colourful place to explore.

 

 

 

The shoreline beyond the bridge is rugged as the waves pound ashore there. We could see that there were many new homes being built. They looked to be for the upper income bracket, and still appeared to be on the market. A nice place to live but very exposed to the weather.

 

 

 

 

 

Pumpkin Hill and Robinson Crusoe

Off we set one morning on an impromptu hike. We had hoped to whale shark watch, but there was no trip on so in bathing suits and flip-flops we headed across island to check out Pumpkin Hill and to see Robinson Crusoe’s look out.

It is said that Robinson Crusoe was ship wrecked on Utila and that that is where the story comes from, so Utila is known as the Robinson Crusoe Island. Anyway our walk to Pumpkin Hill turned out to be a track through marshy, forested farmland. And before long we had clouds of mosquitoes all around us. Being true sports we kept going, I used small branches with leaves to try to swish away the mosquitoes, but really to little effect.

The walk turned out to be quite long, 1 hour 30 minutes to get there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was the shoreline with a beach and again it was pretty. We sat had an orange and then headed to the lookout. This was the only high point on the island, Pumpkin Hill.

 

 

 

There was a good view across the whole island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the walk back my tactic was speed, figuring the faster I was the fewer bites I would get. Well we made it back in 45 minutes, but we were both well bitten and I was very over heated with sore feet and chaff.

 

 

 

 

 

Our one wish was to go whale shark watching. So everyday we would check if a trip was going out. Finally, just as we had given up we received a call to go at 9:00am that day, our last day in Utila. So off we went in the boat with our guide. There was a young teen girl Andeara and her granddad, Pedro with us.

Our guide headed out to the north side of Utila. The seas were quite rough as the wind was up and blowing 15 – 20K. Our young captain watched for the tell tale signs of whale sharks – birds swooping in flocks above the water and feeding on bait fish with tuna feeding too. We spotted the birds swooping and followed them for quite some time while they fed on the baitfish, but no whale sharks were there to feed that day. Off we went to the shallow reef to snorkel instead.

The snorkeling was brilliant! Utila’s reefs are in excellent condition with wonderful corals and numerous fish of all types and sizes. It was a good half-day out even if we never saw a whale shark. There is always next time and we both want to go back to Utila again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    It was time to head to Rio Dulce Guatemala!

 

 

 

“Envisioning our hopes provides a path, as luminous as a beam of moonlight. Once you’ve visualized what you wish, an inner road is being cobbled for you to follow.”  Chris Downie

 

 

PHOTOS HERE–>> Guanaja, Honduras Bay islands  

Sunday June 19th, we are leaving Guanaja after arriving in the morning of Tuesday June 14. We both would love to have been able to stay longer on this extra special island, but will have to return one day. It is definitely one of the most unique places we have visited.

 

 

 

Guanaja

is quite a large mountainous island, with peaks of about 1200ft, surrounded by reef and cays with fabulous beaches. Unlike other Caribbean islands Guanaja has fir trees, the endemic Guanaja  Pine covers most of the slopes. The population totals around 10,000, unbelievably 8,000 of those people live on a single cay.

Bonacca Cay,

which is around 100 acres, and found in the main Harbour. On this cay they have built a labyrinth of a town. The buildings around the outer edge being on stilts over the water, but up to 3 stories high. Running through the town are narrow walkways, alleyways and canals. In some instances the family transport – boat – is “parked” right under the house. Apparently the isle used to be 2 Cays, but they have merged into one as the population has grown. There are very few people living on the large main island of Guanaja. Why is this? Well according to the locals there is a nasty sand fly that bites and makes life uncomfortable, so they choose to live in a labyrinth of buildings on Bonacca.

John was quite skeptical concerning a dreaded biting insect, until he by the second day, was covered in large, very itchy, uncomfortable bites. Normally I am the one that the mosquitoes and no-seeums feast on, but not this time. Our neighboring boat, Landmark, with Colin and Anne were also eaten by this bug. They said it looked like a small flying flea like bug; I never saw it and luckily never suffered its bites.

Immigration and Port Authority

Ashore we went on the afternoon of our arrival, to the immigration fellow first, no problem, two minutes later we had our 90 days and were on our way to Port Authority – aka Customs. There we were faced with needing 2 photo copies of everything plus a picture of the boat. (Yeah-1st place we have ever heard that wanted a picture of our boat.) So off we went, back out to the boat and print a picture of Aeeshah, we could only print in black and white though. Meanwhile having found an ATM, for cash, a internet place that sold SIM cards, plus the grocery store that did copies of our documents, we returned to the Port Captain. Picture was – “no good, need colour print! Go to Internet place and print a colour print.” Soooooo, off we go, get the colour print. By then it was later in the afternoon, I was shattered from lack of sleep, we were both well fed up. We get the colour print, go back and “no! Picture no good! Need picture of boat here!” Then he announces that he is off to measure a ship, so by then I/we had had enough, I left the colour print on his chair and we headed back to Aeeshah.

The next morning we returned to the Port Authority where he said he needed to go out to our boat with his phone to take the picture himself. So John runs him out to the boat where the Port Captain takes 2 pics of the boat. Back ashore he tells us to return again the next day for our paperwork. Returning the next day, we had only a few more hoops to jump through, 1st more of the same questions for John for still more papers. Then he opens a door off the main room, calls us through, we find ourselves in a back room corridor, where he asks for money for the photo copies…….so in the end it’s all about a “donation” to the Port Captain. John gave him 100 L….. (About $5.00), he was very happy, said our papers were perfect, we could go anywhere, “gracias amigo!” and we were free. We found each cruiser had a different story to tell, different papers, different pictures, different donations to make.

 

 

Bonacca

Throughout our checking in time we had plenty of opportunity to learn our way around the Bonacca, it is quite a puzzle/maze of narrow lanes, alleyways, stores and houses. Everywhere was neat and tidy, painted and well organized. Everyone was very friendly and helpful, quite a lovely town, so interesting to wander around.

 

 

 

 

 

Sandy Bay

Our anchorage was a bay called Sandy Bay and was a good 10-minute fast dingy ride away from Bonacca, the wind was blowing a good 15 – 20kts while we’re were there so each dingy ride was a wet affair. However we managed to travel about each day.

 

 

 

Guanaja

The big island of Guanaja is split into two by a narrow canal. Heading through this canal on each side are mangroves, at the end we found the lee shore where there were more wonderful beaches and coves.

 

 

 

 

 

We dinged along the shoreline, stopped at a beach to walk, found a trail and followed it inland a short ways.

The vegetation again is quite different as the main local tree is a pine, which gives the slopes a unique appearance. Not wanting to leave the dingy on a beach unlocked we didn’t venture far, but could see lovely hiking in the mountains.

 

 

Back along the coast we stopped at what we thought was a lighthouse. We climbed the cliff and walked up to the “lighthouse” which was someone’s home. They were not home but a big sign said Welcome! There looked to be good walking trails behind and I wanted to go back the next day to explore.

 

 

 

Mi Casa Too

We went for the best meal ever at Mi Casa Too, a colourful restaurant on the hill across from the anchorage. Anne and Colin came with us; we landed the dingy on a dock, walked the steep hill to Mia Casa Too and found it to be just lovely. It is very brightly, but discreetly decorated with solid wooden furniture, a wide balcony with looks right out over the anchorage and Harbour. There is a wonderful breeze and the music is great. I had Lionfish and it was one of the

best fish dinners ever. To go with the fish was a crisp green salad, coconut, wild rice, and breadfruit fries. The best meal I’ve had in years. Everyone agreed the food was excellent; the evening was fun and one that will be remembered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hike the slopes

Off we set to explore the lee shore again, hoping to hike the slopes. We stopped at a beach near the lighthouse. Upon reaching the lighthouse we found that it was occupied. The couple was the caretaker and his sister, they invited us in to climb to the top and check the view. The view was lovely looking down on the bay and across to the forested slopes. We asked for directions to the top and set off.

It was a hot, tough, climb. Many of the slopes are covered in pine trees; the fallen pine needles make a very slippery slope for climbing. We got to the top of the 1st mount, but another loomed ahead, we got to the top of the second mount, another was ahead,

 

then to the top of the third mountain, but still couldn’t see the other side clearly, so up we climbed along the ridgeline to the tallest peak which looked out over both shores.

 

 

 

We enjoyed the view, had a snack and water and set off down for a challenging downward climb. The views were worth it, the scenery was lovely, but it was very, very hot.

 

 

 

 

We meant to zoom up a few bays for a refreshing snorkel, but dingy had other ideas……. engine decided it didn’t want to zoom, it just wanted to run walking pace.

 

 

So we jumped in the water and had a swim, cleaning up all the scratches from the hike to the top. Then of course the wind had risen so we had a very slow dingy ride back, into the wind, with big seas, which took 1 hour 40 minutes, as opposed to 15 minutes at our regular fast dingy ride.

 

 

 

The time spent in Guanaja was excellent! We are going to return and spend at least a month there sometime soon.

The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. – Eleanor Roosevelt

 

 

PHOTOS —>> Hobbie Cays, Honduras  OR  here:  https://goo.gl/photos/FRSKnqZnmnnwq6AT6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hobbies Cays

was our destination after Providencia. These cays are a part of the Honduras Bank. They are found about 50 miles off the coast of the northeast Honduras coast. The Hobbies are uninhabited and rarely do people visit.

 

 

 

Our plan was to leave Providencia after lunch on Wednesday, in order to be able to buy fresh produce in the morning. However there was no fresh produce in the stores – it was due in on Friday. So off we sailed following our friends Anne and Colin on Landfall towards the Hobbies. Our other friends, Steve and Anna on Bad Kitty were set to leave the next morning.

This passage was a 2-night passage taking us passed the Quita Sueno banks to our east heading north-northwest passes the Nicaraguan Banks and cays. Overall it was an excellent passage for most of the time. We were sailing in seas of 4 – 6 foot seas with winds that were normally 15 – 20 knots.

 

 

 

 

The sky and sea are the brightest mixes of blue and dolphins were playing alongside the boat for over an hour at one stage. We had a rolling following sea of which we were surfing at approximately 6-knots. Life was good, weather fine, but we would be in the Hobbies too soon, early hours of the morning. We were traveling way too fast and would have reached the cays by 01:00 so John, who was on watch, had to slow Aeeshah down, which, is not easy. He hove to and basically we were drifting for several hours off shore.

Finally at around 06:00 we could see well enough to make our way around and through the protecting reef of the Hobbie Cays and into what we hoped would be a calm anchorage. Now before we went in the seas/swell were as said 4 – 6 feet with white caps on top and wind was blowing up and over 20 knots.

 

 

 

 

 

So I was very skeptical as to whether this would be a calm secure anchorage out in the middle on nowhere, 50 odd miles from the nearest land. Once we rounded the reef and drew closer to the little island/cay and into the shelter, the swell disappeared and we were left with a good anchorage with a fantastic breeze.

 

 

We arrived at 07:30 Friday, and stayed until 08:00 on the Monday, in what was one of the most idyllic spots we have ever been privileged to visit. The water in the Hobbies is crystal, turquoise, blue. The bird life around is wonderful. The peace and quiet with just the sound of the surf on the reef is lulling, soothing.

John went for a rest as he had been up much of the night while I tidied up. Around 10:00 Bad Kitty showed up and then an hour later Landfall arrived.

Our first day there John and I went ashore the little island/cay. From afar it had looked as if there were fortifications or some sort of Monrovian structures, (as Colin described them) across the low-lying isle. However I guessed they were pots of some sort, which they proved to be crab or lobster pots, by the 1,000s stacked up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We managed to anchor the dingy in the shallows close to the island and wade shore. The isle was covered in sea birds of every type nesting and roosting. Where there weren’t pots there were Boobies, young Frigate birds, gulls, sand pipers just so many types of sea birds. We followed the shoreline around mindful not to disturb the nesting birds, which would just sit and look apprehensively as you passed. The young frigates were standing up straining to look for the adult birds for food.

The Boobies and terns were swooping in to feed young. It was amazing!! Unfortunately the pots were defiantly interfering with the birds. With pots stacked 10 high and at least 15 deep it formed a huge mound like structure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dinged around to the shallow reef and walked around and out to the reef line. The barrier reef stretches for miles. Again it was amazingly wonderful! Gorgeous to look at! The colors were wonderful!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That night the wind started to blow quite strongly and weather moved in. However we were all safe in the anchorage. We had winds up to and over 30 knots for most of the night and all the next day. Nobody ventured out that day; we hunkered down and did odds and ends.

The following day – Sunday – dawned brightly. The winds had dropped, but the seas beyond the reef were still roaring, so we decided to stay another day. Bad Kitty felt that as they have a catamaran they could go ahead and sail to Guanaja.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along with Anne and Colin we headed out to the barrier reef. There it was low tide and we left the dingy in the shallows.

 

 

 

We all enjoyed exploring along the reef a ways, Anne and Colin walked to the island via the reef line and John and I had a wonderful snorkel. We both agreed it was the best snorkel we have had in ages. There were so many fish of different types, hogfish which we never see anywhere but Bermuda, beautiful reef fish, I saw a massive sting ray and Barracuda, the shallow reefs were full of life.

We all had a wonderful late morning early afternoon adventure with nobody around for many miles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John and I were very tempted to stay in the Hobbies, but plans were beckoning and the weather was good so off we set for Guanaja.

 

“Nothing ever goes away until it teaches us what we need to know.” ― Pema Chödrön

“The very least you can do in your life is to figure out what you hope for. And the most you can do is live inside that hope. Not admire it from a distance but live right in it, under its roof.”

 

 

PHOTOS HERE–>> San Andres to Providencia, Colombia  OR HERE https://goo.gl/photos/3Xt1rivx4GYdKQBf9

As I write this reflective piece for the blog I am sitting in the cockpit while we sail across the Honduras Banks towards the Hobbies. The sky and sea are the brightest mixes of blue and dolphins have been playing alongside the boat for an hour now. We have a rolling following sea of which we are surfing at approximately 6knots. Life is good, weather fine and we should be in the Hobbies too soon, early hours of the morning and will have to hove too and wait for 1st light.

On route to Providencia we were sailing with Colin and Anne on their sailboat Landmark. The whole morning was a very quiet sail until I spotted a whale, then a pod of whales, plus we had dolphin swimming along with us.

We had arranged to take photos of each others boats, so in the middle of the “photo shoot” ziiiinnnggg!! the rods sound out the alert of fish on line. Down with the camera, John to the rods, Jen to attend to Chico and the wheel. It looked to be 2 great fish, but unfortunately the 1st broke the line and the 2nd slipped the hook. Chico looked at John with a very disdainful look. Meanwhile Colin on Landmark was “shooting” the boat and fishing. Then just before we started to head in ziiiinnnggg!! again. this time we caught a small tunny – Chico was very happy, next we caught a big barracuda which John released.

 

Meanwhile back to our time in Providencia. We spent 9 days there and really enjoyed all of everyday.

Our first walk took us along the shoreline of Isla Santa Catalina towards Morgan’s Head, but stopped at the fort, Fort Aury. The walk takes you over the charming foot bridge called Lovers Lane (Puente de los Enamorados), and right along the shoreline where a there is a well laid path of pavers decorated with symbols of plants.

 

 

 

 

To one side you look out over the shallows to the very attractive anchorage with the village in the background. On the other side are small local homes ranging from traditional wooden to new concrete design. Most homes being gaily painted with pretty gardens, others being more the working home of the fisherman or the laundress. Between the homes run pathway towards the hills or mangroves areas with crabs and lizards scuttling around. It was a lovely walk, but being the afternoon it was hot as in the direct sun with little shade.

At the end of the path we climbed a steep stairway to the statue of what I assume is the Virgin Mary that looks out over the anchorage and village. There we enjoyed the shade below the statue with the lovely breeze that was blowing and admired the magnificent view of 360 degrees. It really is a spectacular island. Above the statue was the remains of Fort Aury. We clambered up the hillside to the cannons, which were pointed out over the Harbour and agreed it was too hot to venture any further along the pathway.

We followed the path back to the bridge and then continued on in the other direction under the shade of the mangroves. Again the pathway was interesting, at the end we found a sign telling us it was the site of where Protestants were burned and pirates were hung in the 1800s. An odd mix to hang and burn?

 

 

Back on the boat we changed into bathing suits and went snorkeling off Morgan’s Head. Named after the famous pirate Henry Morgan who sailed these waters. This is a very scenic area of Isla Catalina the shoreline being covered in

 

 

 

 

 

 

coconut palms, the water crystal clear with the coral reef shining through. The snorkeling here was average. We did see many reef fish, schools of Jacks and Fry, a very large Barracuda and a good assortment of juvenile fish, but there was much algae which we assumed meant the water was just too still and hot. We headed around Isla Catalina in the dingy rounding the whole island on our way back to the boat. It is a very photogenic area.

 

 

 

One day, along with Colin and Anne off of svLandfall, we hired a mule. Setting off clockwise around the island, (there is only one road around the island). We stopped off first of all at an amazing looking bus stop in the shape of a octopus. (We noticed later that all the bus stops are of unique design). This also was the entrance to one of the popular beaches. We walked down to the beach where we found a hut and some locals selling local music and trinkets. We ended up buying a CD and a pair of Lionfish fin earrings, which are quite unusual. The beach was empty but looked to be a popular spot. The 2-story hut was the home of the entrepreneur who lived there supplying drinks and trinkets to visitors. This structure was quite a colourful structure made from what looked like painted driftwood.

Next stop was for mid morning coffee for the coffee drinkers. We found a lovely hotel with a grassy terrace by the water where we were served – coffee for 3 and a sour sap fresh juice for myself. There we looked out at the divers setting off from the beach and chatted. Refreshed we stopped at Southwest Bay nick named the

horseracing beach. Once down on the beach one could see why it was used for the traditional horse racing being wide and totally flat.

 

 

 

We drove on and found ourselves at the other end of Southwest beach where again we walked this time watching the fishermen that were cleaning a huge catch of red snapper on a boat just off the beach.

By this time it was lunchtime and again we pulled off the road and followed a lane down to a beach – Bahia Manzanillo. Here we found a palm tree lined beach with an interesting bar/eatery. It was called Roland’s Place and when we first walked up Roland the owner was lying in his hammock swinging comfortably behind the bar. He saw potential customers and quickly jumped from his hammock and into action.

Here we sat under the palm trees at a table and ate pan-fried fish with yucca and coconut rice, while watching birds eating from a coconut drink that had been left. It was a splendid meal!

 

 

Heading off again we continued along the shore stopping to look out at the viewpoints and the scenery. The homes that we saw were mainly quaint wooden traditional homes where one could see the various owners had taken much pride in their property. It was a lovely drive around Providencia.

 

 

 

 

Another day we set out in the morning and walked back along the shoreline towards Morgan’s Head. As it was morning the walk was far cooler and we passed the Virgin Mary on the hillside and the fort.

Taking the pathway down to Fort Bay and up the other side following the trail all the way to Morgan’s Head. This is a wonderful walk, the scenery being just lovely. All along the way we found mango trees dropping ripe mangoes. John was thrilled to be able to pick up and eat ripe mangoes as he walked. On the return journey we collected a pile of mangoes, which we later picked up, from the beach where we stacked them.

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch that day we snorkeled off the reef along Morgan’s channel. The snorkeling was good in areas and then disappointing in other areas. Unfortunately there is much coral bleaching and there looks to be large areas of damaged reef, maybe by boats.

 

 

Our friends Colin and Anne had directions to Pablo Escobar’s home on Isla Catalina. (Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria was a notorious Colombian drug lord whose cartel, at the height of his career, supplied an estimated 80% of the cocaine smuggled into the United States.) They had walked there and said it was a good walk, so borrowing the directions we set off one morning. The route was written in pencil on a scrap of paper directing us 1st to take the pathway just after the green restaurant on your right. Follow it for 5 minutes to the T-junction, head right continuing for 8 minutes to the Y junction, etc. The pathway starts out as a concrete path then quickly changes to a regular trail through the trees. It was an excellent walk.

The pathways connected and crossed the island, passing along the coast and then tracking uphill along an old stone walkway that was well overgrown to a wreck of what must have once been a splendid house on the hill. The property over looks the bay below and the whole island, but being so overgrown what once must have been excellent views were now glimpses through the trees. I would say it was a 2 story home with evidence of at least 2 bathrooms, an outlook from the roof area and a living/kitchen onto porch space, plus there was a pool. It must have been a lovely secluded, private home. We explored and can now say we visited Pablo Escobale’s home in Providencia.

We collected mangoes on the way back to make mango chutney. The trail had again been one with dozens of mango trees with hundreds of ripe mangos. John was in mango heaven! So now we make mango chutney.

 

Our last day in Providencia we went with Colin and Anne plus two other couples to climb the peak. Which is 1,000 feet tall.

Our guide Hawkins aka Horseman met us at the dock at 7:00am to head to the trailhead. Hawkins is a naturalist; he eats nothing produced, canned or packaged, only fresh foods, and fish. He used to eat iguana when he was a child, but gave that up. His other name is Horseman as he has the most horses on the island and his horses are some of the racers.

 

 

We started at the trailhead with Hawkins telling us about the birds and the various medicinal plants. He continued throughout the walk to point out the lizards, birds and plants and to tell us their uses. Plus he gave us a history of the area/island and background on the island.

Hawkins was a brilliant guide; the way he cut a coconut and opened it with his machete/cutlass was truly masterful. We ate mangoes as well as the coconut along the way.

The trail itself is fairly comfortable walking with a few steep inclines, but as it was shady and we had cloud cover it wasn’t too hot. We wound our way to the top, which as expected had an amazing view across 360-degree view across the island and the seas beyond.

If it had been a sunny day the view would have been stunning, but it was pretty special anyway. Hawkins is at present reestablishing another way to head back, but for now we had to head back the same way. Making the whole trek 14 kilometers long. It was a highly recommendable hike; Hawkins is a brilliant guide and ambassador for Providencia.

Our time was up on Providencia, but we hope to head back to that wonderful island.

Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius

 We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. – Mike Robbins