Cayo Campos

Posted on April 24, 2018 by

 

PHOTOS LINK –>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/IQRPWM6RTnXcImKp1 

Next stop Cayo Campos

This time we set off we followed a route along the inside of the reef to the south of the cays towards our destination. There were several lovely looking anchorages along the way, but the wind was blowing strongly from the south and we needed a northerly anchorage for the night and then a southerly anchorage for the following night as another northern was going to be bearing down towards us. So we motor sailed along the crystal clear waters of the inside where you would swear the water only a few feet deep.

Canalizo Aguarsiente and Acopio anchorage

Canalizo Aguarsiente was the channel we took between the cays and allowed us to pass from the southern Caribbean side to the Golfo de Batsbano side of the cays. The channel again looks so shallow, but is in fact quite deep enough. It had a wicked current running through which must keep it clear of silt. Once on the Golfo de Batsbano side of the cays we carefully followed given tracks and waypoints to the area know as Acopio, which is near a fishing station. There we dropped anchor and spent a lovely quiet evening and night.

The plan was to move after breakfast to the anchorage off of Cayo Campos, however when we went to shift the anchor there was a problem. We were stuck to the bottom as the chain and anchor had snagged to “something”. Luckily for us we have dive gear, so John put on the equipment and went below. He found we were wrapped around an old mooring weight in the form of an engine. After freeing us we were then off down the short channel to the southwestern side of Cayo Campos.

Cayo Campos

This cay is known for its large population of monkeys. Apparently the monkeys were put there as part of a research project. The population has grown, the research project is over and so there are rangers stationed there to feed the monkeys daily. The cay is truly beautiful, just the perfect beach with palm tree and hut for the rangers. We were anchored right in front in the beautiful clear water.

We went ashore and introduced ourselves to the rangers, of which there were three very friendly men. They told us about the pathways to walk to the different beaches and that the monkeys were fed at 3:00ish.

We had a short walk to one of the beaches on the south side, which was mainly lined with mangroves, but it was very pretty.

The cangrejo monkeys

We went ashore for the monkey feeding. One of the rangers brought out a large tub of what looked like large yellow pellets. He then called what sounded like “Noël! Noël!” and from the mangroves at the edge of the bay monkeys started to approach the pellets he tossed. There were probably over a hundred monkeys, not all at once but in separate groups/tribes.

They would take turns to come close and gather the pellets, stuffing them into their cheeks. Occasionally arguments and small fights broke out. Some of them seemed to sit at the side and watch, others had a drink of water from the trough,

the young chased each other and scampered up the coconut trees while a few were chased away at sat at a distance watching all that was going on. We watched the monkeys for an hour or so before heading back to the boat.

 

Southern beach walk

Early the next morning we set off ashore, said hello to the rangers and started down the track towards the large Playa – beach that runs all along the south coast. The path led inland and then cut across and up to a casuarinas grove, which we had seen behind the beach.

When we approached we found pools of green water within the grove, almost as if some caverns had collapsed and filled with either rain or sea water, maybe both. The area was quite different than any I had ever seen.

We wound our way around the ponds and out onto the beach where we headed towards the east – away from where the boat was anchored at the western end of the cay.

This beach was gorgeous, huge, sweeping off into the distance and we set off to find the end point. The top regions were covered in all sorts of litter and shells, beachcomber’s paradise, so I kept finding myself drawn to the lines and piles of debris. I found a little stuffed red bear, a small pink bunny, net floats and numerous shells and this was without really raking through the whole area.

Along the shoreline in the shallows were quite a few string rays hiding while above soared numerous birds, vultures, sea birds and osprey to name a few. We finally rounded the distant point only to see another in the distance, so off we set again to find the end. We finally did get to an area, which was close to the end of the island, but could not continue as the mangroves took over. John did try and sank up to his thighs in the quicksand type mangrove sludge.

We headed back along the way we had passed, but once we reached the casuarinas grove where we had entered the beach we decided to continue along the beach and shoreline to the western end and the camp where the dingy was located.

The beach narrowed and became rockier and then the mangroves were to the waterline so it meant wading along the shoreline. John tried to cut across a sand bar to wade away from the mangroves and again found the soft sinking muck sinking to his hips this time. Again there was a ton of sea trash thrown up, just everything imaginable, the plastic packing found in packages being just enmeshed in the seaweed, really very sad for the sea life.

This walk took over 5 hours, we arrived back just before 3:00pm in need of a swim to cool off, but we both had a wonderful time hiking the shoreline of Cayo Campos.

Around the Cayo

Living under our boat all the time we were anchored was a very large barracuda. He was an odd fish as he would dart out and try to eat the scrapes of our food; normally this breed catches fish to eat. John and I thought he was probably ill or elderly, anyway we called him Barney. He stayed with us right up till we left.

Another day we dingied to the neighboring island hoping to find the mangrove channels to the other side. We ended up just cruising the shoreline and then visiting the large sandbar in the bay where we were anchored and where a good number of cormorants were each day.

The sandbar was really quite large and most of the surrounding area was quite shallow. The colours of the bay across the water were just amazing, such clear blues and turquoises, so beautiful.

On our final day we had hoped to spend the day snorkeling, but the wind was blowing off the reefs and the currents were running strong so we went for another beach romp.

This time we took the dingy over the shallows to the southern beach where the shoreline was sheltered, hauled it up and set off. I spent most of my time looking through all the beach trash for shells and sea beans.

We both had another look at the ponds and still could not really understand how they had been formed. John found a message in a plastic bottle, but it just gave a name and date, no other information.

That evening the rangers gave us 4 coconuts as we had given them some fishing lures to trawl with. They normally trawled each day for their fish dinner.

We left Cayo Campos after several wonderful days enjoying the area immensely.

I’ll walk where my own nature would be leading: It vexes me to choose another guide. – Emiliy Bronte

 This journey has always been about reaching your own other shore, no matter what it is. – Diana Nyad

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Off to the Rosario Cays

Posted on April 24, 2018 by

 

PHOTOS LINK —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/5SKDdMUK8S66rEFw2

Cayo Guano del Este again

From Cienfuegos we set off to spend time in the southern cays of Cuba. We left Cienfuegos and headed to Cayo Guano del Este where we hoped to spend a quiet night. It was a long downwind sail and we arrived finding just one other sailboat.

However after going below for dinner around 7:30 when we went back up into the cockpit we found we were surrounded by 7 catamarans, charterers and they were nearly all partying aboard. Then the wind rose and we were stuck in the middle of drunken charterers on catamarans with guts of 30 knots. Not a good position for us, but little we could do, so John slept in the cockpit with the drag alarm on and ready to spring into action. He reported the next morning that the noisy partying continued till the early hours, and he slept very little. We were well away from there at daybreak.

Cayo Largo briefly

We stopped at Cayo Largo for the night so that we could dingy into the marina and grab a few minutes of wifi. We didn’t check with the Guarda Fronteras as it was pointless and luckily we got a half hour of wifi without any issues.

Rosario Cays

Early in the morning we were off to the Rosario Cays via the outside route. It was a fairly good downwind sail arriving at the Cayo Del Rosarios in the afternoon we carefully made our way in through the reef. The anchorage area is very large, but it took us a while to find an area that was deep sand, the rest was shallow sand over reef or just reef.

This anchorage is just wonderful. Inside the reef so not rolly, with a great breeze and far enough off shore to stop mosquitoes. A short while later the Cuban park rangers crossed from the neighboring island – Cayo Cantiles where their camp is located. Their mission was to sell us lobsters. They were not interested in the rum, just wanting 5 CUC ($5.00) per lobster. John bought 2 for dinner. These guys said no photos, guess, as they are the park rangers, they just loved Chico. In fact the following day they arrived with more lobster for us but free fish for Chico’s dinner. They also invited us to cross to visit Cayo Cantiles, which we never had time to.

The following days we spent exploring the area. We dingied all along the shoreline of Cayo Rosario passed the mangroves stopping to pull the dingy onto the beach. There we walked and beach combed the shoreline which we both love doing.

We took the dingy between the shallow reef and the shore all the way to a wonderful beach in another bay on the other side of the Cay. There again we walked and explored, John had his bathing suit on and swam, and I just jumped into the water to cool off clothes and all. The water was just wonderful, crystal clear, with wonderful blues and turquoises, just exquisite.

In the afternoons we snorkeled. The reef was lovely, full of corals and fish. There were live conch, fish we rarely see and of course huge barracudas, which were too friendly and came too close.

We did see a few other boats, but on the whole we were all alone in the Cayo Rosario anchorage. It was a memorable and wonderful few days.

You have no control over how your story begins or ends. But now, you should know that all things have an ending. Every spark returns to darkness. Every sound returns to silence. Every flower returns to sleep with the earth. The journey of the sun and moon is predictable. But yours, is your ultimate art. – Suzy Kassem

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Trinidad for the day

Posted on April 16, 2018 by

 

PHOTO LINK –>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/SuVkT1K3OL1uhtMo2

Trinidad

Our visit to Trinidad was arranged when we were in Cienfuegos. There was a guy that we met on one of our first daily walks towards the town just along the roadway from the marina. His name was Dario and he ran a “taxi” to where ever you wished to visit. So we arranged to meet his driver in the morning at 9:00am in front of the marina. 9:00 came and went, John went looking for Dario when finally he arrived with our driver in an old 1947 red American Chevrolet and his pushbike strapped in the boot. He explained the late arrival with, “This is Cuba…”

So we were off, 1st we drove around to 2 hostels to pick up the other passengers. Heading out of Cienfuegos there were the driver, John and I in the front with a guy from Spain and a German couple in the back.

LAND CRABS

The drive started off just heading along a 2-lane roadway passing by countryside and farmland. We noticed that there were quite a few land crabs on the roadway. There were too many for the driver to avoid and so the car was crunch crunching the crabs.

I knew that land crabs migrate to the sea once a year on about the same days each year. It is a migration to breed in the sea, they then return to the land. We just happened to be travelling at the very time the land crabs were migrating to the coast.

As we continued so the numbers of crabs increased. Believe it or not but there were a few cars with flat tires due to the pinchers and the old worn tires being punctured, our driver even stopped to check one of the tires. The smell of squashed crabs was very unpleasant, the sound was just terrible.

Crabs, Rancheos and cattle

and then ahead we saw rancheros blocking the roadway. The rancheros were herding a large herd of cattle and required us to drive onto the verge and let them pass; we really did not need a herd of cattle stampeding towards us. The driver pulled off the side, squishing more and more crabs and we all alighted from the taxi, rather we fell out the doors as we were so packed inside. It gave us a chance to photograph the crabs and also watch the rancheros herd the cattle past. And then we were off again. The roads were still thick with crabs but as we drew closer to Trinidad, which is further inland, the crabs dwindled in numbers.

Trinidad

Trinidad is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, being one of Cuba’s oldest, most complete towns. Its history dates back to 1494 when the Spanish settlement was first established. There is an air about the town that “time has frozen” with its narrow cobbled streets, red tiled roofs, mix of gaily painted pastel buildings with the older locals chatting and sit in doorways watching the passage of tourists.

We were dropped off on an outer street, as no vehicles drive into the main part of the town. From there we made our way to the:

Plaza Mayor

This is the heart of old Trinidad and is surrounded by the cathedral and old colonial mansions with balconies overlooking the square while in the center is a fenced garden. We chose to enter the:

Iglesia de la Santisima Trinidad

This is the town’s main church, which is quite typical of other Spanish churches with many altars, and shrines that are very ornate. A Dominican friar donated many of them in the 1900s that wanted to liven up the church.

Ermita de la Popa and the Loma de la Vigia

Was our next stop. This sits above the town and is really just a ruin, but in front there is a wonderful view looking out over the whole of Trinidad.

The walk there and back was interesting too as we passed through the local neighborhood where the locals seemed to spend much time greeting the tourists that wandered by.

We found a wonderful café type restaurant for lunch and enjoyed bite to eat before heading off again. The first stop was:

Museo de la Lucha Contra Bandidos.

This building has a yellow and white trimmed bell tower, which was part of the eighteenth – century church and convent known as Iglesia and Convento de San Francisco de Asis.

The building also houses the museum whose displays cover the history of the revolutionary conflict of the 1950s, the central theme is – post 1959 fight against counter revolutionary groups – the bandidos…..the Bay of Pigs era foreign funded rebels.

We both found this display very educational and the photos compelling.

We climbed the bell tower up and up old rickardy wooden stairs all the way to the bell tower at the top. There the view was wonderful with the town and countryside stretching away for miles into the distance.

The alleyways and byways

 

Were just charming. I believe John and I wandered every nook and cranny possible, just looking at the architecture, the locals or peeping into windows where the interiors were just as charming.

We wandered to the Plaza Santa Ana

Which is the plaza where many of the locals shop. It’s quite dreary compared to the rest of Trinidad, but there is the Carcel Royal, the old military prison – housing the shops and bars and Iglesia Santa Ana an old derelict church. Here John was also able to renew our cash supply at the Cadeca.

Ride back

Was fast and furious. We met our driver just after leaving the Plaza Santa Ana. He did not have any other fares so he set off and kept up a crazy speed all the way to Cienfuegos. Again the countryside was lovely, surprisingly the crab migration was down to just a trickle of crabs crossing the road, but the roads were covered in a thick layer of squashed crabs.

Trinidad was a wonderful place to visit and we had an excellent day.

The extraordinary is waiting quietly beneth the shin of all that is ordinary. – Mark Nepo

 

 

 

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Cienfuegos

Posted on April 13, 2018 by

 

PHOTOS LINK —->> https://photos.app.goo.gl/C3L6Qze3oHBCq7bN2

And on to Cienfuegos

The sail to Cienfuegos was a long all day passage that was mostly unmemorable, few ships, no fish caught, mainly comfortable and only a few other sailboats, which were following us.

Before entering the channel towards Cienfuegos we could look out across the waters of the Golfo de Cazones towards the Bay of Pigs and see the nuclear plant in the distance. This area is all classified as a no go zone and has been so since the Americans invaded back in the 1960s.

When going into the bay where Cienfuegos is situated we travelled down the long channel which passed homes of fishermen along the waterside, the huge “Bienvenidos Socialista” sign painted on the seawall above which I could see the Guarda with his binoculars trained on us and the old fortress – Castillo Jagua to the left. We crossed the waterway of the harbour and headed towards the marina where we had to check in with the Guarda and keep the boat whether at anchor or dockside. It was evening by the time we were anchoring up when we received a message via the vhf that the dock master required all vessels to go alongside.

Well, the wind had picked up; the other boats that had been following us had arrived so it was a chaotic half hour while we all eventually managed to get along a dock space. By the time the dock master had boarded Aeeshah, completed his paperwork, John gone to the 2 offices to do yet more paperwork, even having to recall the last 5 countries visited, it was dark, but oh no! We had to then go and anchor, just incase the dock space was needed, just us not the other boats. I was not impressed, so out we went after 14 hours of sailing and messing around with authorities to anchor in the dark in an unknown anchorage. Oh, and we had to pay $.30 per foot per night just for the anchorage.

Anyway it worked out and we finished the evening with dinner and drinks tired but, relaxed. (A new crew and dock-master took over a day later and he did not require any boats along side. The officials plus drug dog all went in the dock-masters little white speedboat out to the arriving boats:-)

Marina Marlin

The Marina Marlin is where we had to land the dingy before going ashore; they do not have a dingy dock, we had a choice of landing it on the rocky beach or along the concrete dockside, which had no fenders. We opted for the dockside. John had to drop me on the rocks first as the dock was too tall for me to climb up, so needless to say it comes across as a really shabby arrangement. To get wifi we would then walk to the park area about half a mile away where there was a public wifi hot spot. However on the plus side the marina did have a small shop selling basic supplies even eggs and bread.

Cienfuegos

The marina is situated just outside in an area called Punta Gorda so we would walk into the main part of town, Pueblo Nuevo, to wander around and get our supplies.

Pueblo Nuevo,

the main part of town was worn, busy, and tired looking, seedy in places, but also charming, another world,

and we always enjoyed seeing all that was going on. We found the panaderia – bakery easily and bought breads that were excellent.

To exchange our sterling and Euros we wanted to go into the Cadeca, moneychangers, but after finally finding it – was shut, but a Cuban fellow spoke to us and explained he could change our money for a good rate. So we dealt with the illegal moneychangers on the street, we both felt like drug dealers doing an underhanded deal.

The market took us a few days to find, mainly as our directions were not clear, but we had bought some produce from the few roadside carts available.

When we did find it the market on the Saturday, it was not very well stocked, there was little variety and so we got what we could and decided to go back the following week when fresh produce was due to arrive. However when returning the Wednesday we found even less choice. So we just got what we could. I feel that the average Cuban must be quite deprived for good fresh produce.

Parque Jose Marti

The center of Cienfuegos is a square called Parque Jose Marti Where when we visited we found that a fiesta was in progress.

It was a fiesta celebrating books; sort of what I think is a book fair. The families were very excited to look at the books and educational posters for sale, carefully selecting books or posters with the alphabet or such to buy with the children of all ages who were really happy to receive a new book, poster or to play with a balloon, so very different from the child in the average country.

There was a children’s musical skit being performed with lots of smiling faces all around. The buildings around the square were the older historical buildings, which had been well maintained.

 

The architecture was lovely to look at. We enjoyed looking around the cathedral, “Catedral de la Purisima Concepcion” which was a classic.

Punta Gorda

We visited the point at the end of Punta Gorda where we visited the really lovely Palacio de Valle. This wonderful building is striking to look at. There is a Moorish/Indian architectural look too much of the exterior design with turrets, carved windows, and arches. Inside it is lavishly decorated with mosaic floors, a marble staircase and detailed arches to name a few of the extras.

 

There we took a self-guided tour that included a Monito on the terrace of the roof and was highlighted by the excellent view from the top tower looking out over the bay.

In the same Punta Gorda area we visited the park at the end point La Punta that looked out across the bay. We walked passed other interesting hostels and homes along the shore side, enjoying the walk and the lovely day.

Cienfuegos is a very handy point from which to visit inland areas in Cuba. It’s a fun place to people watch, to see more of the Cuban way of life. They are a very happy people.

You can safely leave the boat and easily travel. We met a fellow called Dario who runs an unofficial taxi stand. He was able to arrange for us a “taxi” to and from Trinidad, which was where we really hoped to visit. And so for our last day in Cienfuegos we went to Trinidad.

You can’t connect the dots looking forward; you can only connect them looking backwards. So you have to trust that the dots will somehow connect in your future. You have to trust in something – your gut, destiny, life, karma, whatever. This approach has never let me down, and it has made all the difference in my life. – Steve Jobs

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Cayo Largo and Cayos Dios – Cayo Sal and Cayo Guano Este

Posted on April 10, 2018 by

 

PHOTO LINK –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/C3L6Qze3oHBCq7bN2

Cayo Largo and Cayos Dios – Cayo Sal and Cayo Guano Este

We did a 38-hour passage to Cayo Largo from Maria Gorda,

leaving at 05:00 hours, not my favourite time to leave. Overall it was a good passage, we could have used more wind but the current wasn’t against us, the seas were average and we were comfortable.

Cayo Largo

Cayo Largo was where we needed to be on the 4th March, to renew our visas. We arrived on the 3rd in the evening and anchored, not going ashore to the Guarda Frontera, as we were both needing rest.

Visa renewal

We chose to anchor in the inner bay area, which was totally sheltered, quiet and calm. The next morning we went in the dingy, tied up to the dock at the marina and looked for the Guarda Frontera office.

The renewal process was painless, totally easy and as he told up our visas were good until midnight we were in plenty of time. First we had to go to the bank and purchase two 20 stamps and two 5 stamps, and return. These are visa stamps, which are officially attached to your visa. In the bank we found that there were 2 lines, but one dealt with the 5 stamps and 1 dealt with the 20 stamps, and no they could not pass them between, you have to go from one line to the next. So leaving passports, stamps and all with the Guarda we set off to find wifi and have a look around.

Cayo Largo was again not what we had expected. The whole Cayo is for tourists and caters to tourists, no locals live there, the locals are just staff that work on a monthly basis. The marina area where we were just deals with sailboats, charters, diving, water excursions etc. There are a few very basic tiendas – shops with souvenirs, sodas and snacks, no foods or supplies that cruisers need. The tourists staying in hotels along the beach are further down the Cay and are transported by little trains. Coaches transport the staff. There is an airport where the tourists enter and leave. It impressed us as being quite regimented without the average tourist realizing that it is so. We sat next to the restaurant area and did our online business and emails.

The inside anchorage was where we were anchored and despite it being some way from the marina we had been informed that we would need to pay $.30 per foot per day. This did not go down well with either of us, so we determined to have a look around and leave as soon as possible.

We explored the bar near the anchorage. It is a lovely bar at the end of a wonderfully long beach.

The water was gorgeous, the colours just stunning and with conchs and starfish right up to the shoreline. We landed the dingy and walked the beach area enjoying the lovely scenery.

Mangrove channels

Later that day we set off to find the fuel dock, which was located in a mangrove lagoon near the small, port where supply boats land.

The reflections along the shoreline were just perfect for photography, so very symmetrical. The fuel dock, when we found it was locked off and looked to be little used. John decided we could do without the hassle of getting fuel. We continued along the mangrove channels and found that it was just lovely.

There were wading birds all around, clear waters in which countless fish swam, rays gliding by, reflections all around from the sunny still day. The water was flowing through between the mangrove isles, schools of large Jacks flew past, parrotfish grazed below, and other reef fish were around the corals, a very healthy area.

Cayo Iguana 

Heading back to the boat we ventured towards a cayo where we had seen tourist boats stop, plus where I had seen what looked like a white cliff. Approaching the cay the water shallowed into lagoon type bay surrounded by bars, so we got out and dragged the dingy across the shallows to the beach.

Straight away we were approached by dozens of iguanas, all sizes, some creeping up and some running up to greet us. The visiting boats must feed them, as they seemed to expect food from us. It really was quite a sight being surrounded by dozens of iguanas. We walked along the cay and could see how the iguanas had burrows in the soft sandstone cliff. John found that inland was infested with mosquitoes, so there was probably a salt pond there.

Los Dios Cays

Leaving Cayo Largo we sailed for the Los Dios Cays. These are a small group of cays that are the finals cays of the southern chain situated right on the edge of the deep water. The passage took us first in the deep water off the bank of reef and then we cut into the shallows to seek calmer waters.

The shallows are just beautifully clear; you feel for sure that the boat will hit the bottom, but its deep, just that the crystal clear waters give the illusion of being shallow.

Cayo Sal

Cayo Sal was our stop for the day. This is literally just a very narrow, long rock isle with about 7 palm trees trying to survive. The surrounding reef is amazing and we really wished to return to snorkel.

We were the only boat, that evening I looked out and saw what appeared to be an apparition, a small wooden boat was approaching, sure enough out of nowhere appeared a small wooden fishing boat with 4 Cuban guys, an ancient engine bellowing smoke and awash in the bilges dozens of lobsters and silk snappers. These were a very happy group of fishermen, they wanted rum for lobsters. Plus they asked if we had any spare flippers as theirs were falling apart. So we traded a pair of fins and a small bottle of rum for 8 lobsters, however we only took 4 as we just could not manage the rest. The guys were very happy. They were also very impressed with Chico; he was very impressed with their fish and lobster.

Cayo Guano Del Este

We were supposed to sail to Cienfuegos, but instead pulled into the last cay in the chain. This anchorage is supposedly just a day anchorage, or a night anchorage in dead calm conditions. The weather looked great, the lighthouse on the cay and the beautiful crystal clear waters were just too tempting to pass by.

So we anchored, it was just 9:00am, and we had a full day to enjoy the cay. There were already 2 other boats in the anchorage, a chartered catamaran and a mono cruiser like us. I was very happy to see the dingy from the other cruiser’s boat go to the shore a be greeted by the lighthouse keeper, so not long later we were off ashore too.

The lighthouse

Upon reaching the rocky shoreline the keeper and his assistant were there to help us ashore and to greet us. The keeper William and his helper Frank were very sweet. They let us roam around and even climb up the lighthouse.

The view from the top was awesome, just spectacular looking out across the reefs.

We roamed all the way along the inside shore to the eastern point and then all along the outside shore back to the lighthouse. It was a great hike.

The young helper Frank showed us how he had a fishing rod but had lost all his hooks so we returned with some fishhooks and some chocolate kisses I had on board. Then they gave us this root vegetable, a very strange looking brown tuber sort of like a bulb. Anyway William explained to me how to cook it, which I did that night and it was very nice, reminds one of a potato.

The afternoon we went in the dingy along the inside shoreline, looking at the rocky shoreline and the few weathered inlets. We stopped and snorkeled, the water was clear, the reefs wonderful and fish of all types and sizes everywhere. Another lovely day.

 

That evening about half a dozen chartered catamarans appeared and anchored in the same anchorage. It was suddenly crowded and no longer peaceful. The wind rose and started blowing too strongly for comfort. Our night’s sleep was not restful. John was up most of the night watching out for dragging catamarans. However all was fine and we were off at sunrise for Cienfuegos.

“Life can be found only in the present moment.” —  Thich Nhat Hanh

 

 

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Capo San Antonio to Maria Gorda

Posted on March 11, 2018 by

 

PHOTO LINK à> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HM9H3v9Z4n07Fsg63   Maria Gorda

 

Capo San Antonio to Maria Gorda

Having enjoyed our time at Capo San Antonio and meeting several fellow cruisers we left for a day sail around the Cape. We had waited for the weather to calm as we had been told the winds and seas can be vicious with the currents strong making for a very difficult passage east. We were fortunate as our crossing was relatively smooth; John had chosen the weather window well.

The cape itself is just a bare, rocky, cliff coast. We did see the bus running along the only road atop of the cliffs and a ship wrecked off the formidable looking shoreline.

The previous day/night one of the other sailboats had left we were happy to see them as soon as we arrived. Chris and Jess came out to “catch up” and were then off in their dingy. Then that evening the weather changed, we had much welcomed rain and also thunder and lightening.

 

The bay itself is huge with a beach running along the shoreline on the side we were on. The water just crystal clear, turquoises, aquamarine blues in every direction, just lovely. We had to pick up a buoy, as the area is a marine park so we were attached to one of the dive buoys and could easily see the reef below.

We headed ashore to the resort and dive center to “check in “ with the Guarda Frontera and to get some wifi connection for emails. The resort looks to be well established as a dive center. It was also relatively busy with guests. Again there were cats roaming around, kittens scrounging food, a nice bar area and comfortable looking accommodations.

A small cruise ship arrived for part of one day. Its passengers too were taken on the dive boats to snorkel and dive. It is definitely a destination I would recommend.

Our first day was spent taking the dingy along the shoreline towards the mouth of the bay along the beach and cliffs. The scenery was just wonderful, wild, untouched and untamed. We were able to pull the dingy onto a beach past the cliffs in an area where I doubt many folks ever get to see.

There we walked the beach. I was very contented to wander looking for shells, driftwood and sea glass. All of which I was able to find amongst the seaweed and sponges that had washed ashore. John strode out ahead and was soon in the distance. Thus the morning passed with us beach combing and very happily exploring the shoreline.

The afternoon we took the dingy to one of the dive buoys tied up and snorkeled the reef.

It was exquisite, the corals numerous and varied, schools and schools of fish of many varieties. We both saw fish we had never seem before and even rare species not usually seen for example hamlet and grouper. However the water is still chilly being February, so after an hour or so we had to get out.

The next day we enjoyed first exploring another area of the beach, near what looked to be an abandoned marina area. The inland area is densely forested with a palm tree species and other shrubs. Above the beach area is a long “wall of old gray, rocks that looks as if someone had build a wall.

However you realize that it’s the sea that has built the wall of rocks. The rocks have rolled and been thrown ashore over time with the high seas.

A walk towards the cliffs was very different as along this stretch the beach was more reef and so we waded in the shallows. It was just a lovely walk along the shoreline.

We both loved this beautiful area of Cuba and hope to return. After just a few days we needed to head out to Cayo Largo as our visa renewal was due. So we did a 184 passage straight to Cayo Largo.

“This world is but canvas to our imaginations.”  ― Henry David Thoreau

 

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From Hemingway to Capo San Antonio

Posted on February 25, 2018 by

 

 

 

PHOTOS LINK à> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xla7O3Sp3jIl6bUm2

Our intension had been to spend only a few days in Hemmingway Marina, but that turned in 5 days. Chico was a huge star there, so many folks wanted to see him and photograph him. He seemed to enjoy the celebrity status.

February 12th we said goodbye to our friends on Kestrel, who we had originally met in Brunswick, Georgia in late October. Then we went to the customs immigration dock and had paperwork sorted, received our dispatch papers and they checked boat again. The two young lady officials, came aboard, had a look and then wanted to hold and photograph Chico. So finally we set off for our first anchorage Bahia Honda.

Bahia Honda

This was a very protected anchorage in a large mangrove lagoon. Nearby there was an old shipyard that appeared to still be active, but also had several rusted ship hulks nearby.

We had a very quiet evening and only saw a couple of fishermen the next morning, they waved as they passed.

Cayo Levista

 

Cayo Levista was our second anchorage and my favourite. On this Cayo there is a small eco resort, plus there is a Guarda Frontera there daily. So we started by checking in with the Guarda. which is a must in Cuba. After which there was time to have a quick peek at where we were.

The beach on the other side was just magnificent! The resort looks lovely, beautiful place to stay. We were anchored just off of the resorts dock area and surprisingly there were no mosquitoes despite the nearby mangroves.

The following day we set off to explore the Cayo. First walking through the resort to the beach we then set off towards the eastern end of the Cayo. Here the beach wound along the coast and when the mangrove area started there was a pathway that we took continuing towards the end, which was a huge sandbar.

There we walked to the bitter end. There was an old wooden pier, which John went towards and suddenly sank up to his upper thigh in what had appeared to be sand, but was actually silt. At the time it was quite hilarious, but for a child could be quite dangerous.

At the center of the sandbar was an old palm thatched bar area where we stopped for a while just enjoying the day.

Back towards the beach we wandered and then proceeded to walk nearly to the other end along the beach. There were so many Portuguese Men of War washed ashore along the beach, some shells but few birds.

The afternoon we took the dingy and headed westwards along the mangroves. The lagoons were lovely, the water so clear, and finally I saw birds amongst the trees, herons, pelicans and a frigate bird.

We found one lagoon area, which was actually on the other side of the beach we had walked along in the morning. So we paddled the dingy ashore, pulled it up on the beach and walked along the stretch of beach we had missed in the morning, not a soul was in sight.

Upon returning to the dingy, surprisingly enough there was a cruising sailboat dropping anchor just outside the lagoon. They were as surprised to see us, as we were them. They had arrived from the same direction as us, but are headed to Mexico.

Cayo Restinga del Palo

Was our next evening anchorage. This passage was the one where John caught an enormous Wahoo.

We had had 2 barracuda strikes, which we released, and then, just as we were getting ready to head into the anchorage the rod went ziiinnnngggg!!! It took quite a long time to clean being about 40 – 45lbs of fish, but after filleting and all we had 3 large bags of fish for us and 1 for Chico. He was a very happy cat with all the fresh fish and blood.

 

The anchorage was behind a small Cayo and a sand bar, luckily it was not too windy so we did not bounce about too much. We never did go ashore, but left next morning to outside the reefs and round Cayo Jutias past the lighthouse to our next anchorage.

Punta Alonso de Rojas.

We had good reason not to fish that day as we were over stocked with Wahoo. When rounding Cayo Jutias there were many strong currents and whirlpools where the sea was disturbed and in these were just hundreds of Portuguese Men of War. I had never seen anything like that, there were just hundreds of them. Arriving at Punta Alonso de Rojas we found it to be another mangrove anchorage. We had a swim and enjoyed a quiet evening.

Cayo Buenvista

Was our next anchorage. Along the way there we accidentally came across a couple of fishermen. Accidentally because I was below deck and John was distracted by his book when he heard shouts. We had sailed nearly alongside them in their little fishing boat. They were very happy to have us drop by and asked if we would like to buy some la langosta aka lobster from them for 3CUC. Well despite having a ton of fish John felt we should buy 2. Then he went to find his wallet, well as we hadn’t used money for a number of days he couldn’t find it, so he ended up trading a couple of his T shirts. That evening we really did enjoy the lobster grilled on the barbeque.

Ensenada de San Fransisco

Was our next anchorage for the evening. This was an enormous bay again surrounded by mangroves with not a building, light or sign of human inhabitants in sight. Later we did have a fishing vessel drop anchor near us. It was one of the larger vessels and had a crew of 4 who would dive from the small rowboat that they also had with them.

2 of the crew came across in the rowboat. This time it was Red Snappers that they had for us and they wanted rum. Well we explained we really did not need fish, but they could have one of John’s small rums he had bought to trade with. They were nice fellows who chatted with John, just interested in where we were from and such. Once again Chico was a big hit!!

Marina Gaviota, Los Morros, Cabo de San Antonio Peninsula

We decided to head into this marina, which is at the end of the Cabo de San Antonio Peninsula. Arriving mid-afternoon when the wind was blowing quite strongly we found that the dock lies more or less south – north facing and the wind blows eastwardly mostly so the waves break along the eastern stretch of dock space, leaving the westward side for docking. It was quite a challenge to get the boat secured to the dock, but without mishap and with the assistance of several folks we were secured. The dock can only hold 3 boats, it is small, very rough concrete with gas pumps and construction in progress, well maybe not progressing, but sitting waiting to be to be finished.

We “checked” in again and found that there was indeed wifi so we could use our cards, plus a very nice little eatery and so booked a dinner. The food was very good, but American prices are not.

The other boats were 1 that left the next morning for Mexico and the other with 2 Americans, one originally from India and the other from Hawaii, whom we ended up having a very nice dinner with. Then a day later at around 8:00pm another small boat arrived from Belize with 4 aboard, 2 from Sweden, 1 from France and a Canadian. So then the dock was full again. We actually were getting used to the rough dock and surroundings by the 2nd day.

Peninsula de Gaunahacabibes

John off loaded the bikes and we rode along the only road towards the small hotel. This hotel caters to people visiting the Peninsula de Gaunahacabibes. This peninsular is almost entirely a national forest park, with just the 1 small roadway in and out and the 2 very small “hotels” for tourists who like to bird watch or hike in the forest looking for wildlife. There are no ATMs, shops, fuel stations, houses or anything – it is a very isolated peninsular and marina that we were staying in.

That day we rode to the small hotel, which looked to only have a few workers there. We walked to the hotel beach, which is long and beautiful, we saw wild pigs, many birds but little else. 

On the way back we took another little dirt path and rode through the brush to the end of the point where the beach stretch as far as one could see.

Around the area

Another day we walked the long beach opposite the marina dock out to the point. This beach was covered in seaweed and such, few shells and surprisingly less plastic than usual.

Having stayed for a few days at this outpost was quite interesting in that it showed a bit of how life works here, or rather the structure of how life is set up for the locals. Everyone has a specific job. Take for instance the fellow who fills the jerry jugs with fuel. Every morning he arrives on the workers bus, he and he alone is allowed to cart the fuel jugs down the dock and fill them. To buy fuel – he is called for and he alone can only do that job. The marina staff do not do anything other than their own work, even though there are obviously many maintenance jobs waiting to be seen to, thats not their job. No they sit and play dominos, and that’s just the way it is here. We have noticed a complete lack of incentive, guessing that’s because living here you just have to accept your lot in life.

Faro Roncali lighthouse

Another day we rode past the little hotel for a further 2 miles to the lighthouse. There we saw the workers homes, and the guarda watching the shoreline. The lighthouse itself – Faro Roncali – was built in 1849, but is not open to visitors. We enjoyed the views from the cliff and headed back.

On the way back we stopped along the shore, walked out along the beach, John even jumped in to cool off and we stopped to look at some workers retrieving honey from bees. There were about a dozen or so people, like an extended family group. They had a large truck filled with barrels, which they were storing the honey in. Just off the road they had a fire burning, using the smoke to calm the bees, they were extracting the honey. The group was very friendly, offered us honey, but didn’t want any photos, which was a shame. Anyway they must be the Cuban honey gathers, as everyone has a job special to them only.

It was an enjoyable ride and again no traffic, few people, just birds and pigs – I saw the national hummingbird that’s the size of a bee.

A couple of nights before we left we had another excellent dinner. The waitress Boomboom convinced John he had to eat at the marina again. We had a wonderful lobster dinner.

Then the day before we were due to leave it was Gary’s 69th birthday and Vanoo arranged a small lunchtime “party, which was just excellent The marina made some lovely food and a chocolate cake. We all toasted Gary and then dung in to the food.

The weather is nearly perfect for us to round the Capo to the southern side of Cuba where we will head to Cayo Largo.

“People are opportunities. The gift is in the interaction and the connection with another person, whether it lasts forever or not.”  – Colleen Seifert

At the height of laughter, the universe is flung into a kaleidoscope of new possibilities.”

—  Jean Houston

 

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Hemingway Marina, the nearby village, Casablanca and Havana again

Posted on February 22, 2018 by

 

 

PHOTOS LINK –>> 1st https://photos.app.goo.gl/CCac11M0117AzcT33  The village and Hemingway Marina

2nd https://photos.app.goo.gl/PEpm1jZUDld0W4LE2  Casablanca and Havana

Hemingway Marina and the local village

The day following our 1st visit to Havana John and I rode around the marina. It is of an unusual design comprising of 4 long deep channels. The outside being just a rocky shore with a large seawall.

We rode to the very end of the marina where the entrance to Marina Hemingway is located.

There we saw a couple of sailboats that looked like they had recently been rescued from the rocks. Not sure if they are there as a warning of the entrance or for lack of any where to put them or any means of getting them there.

The sea is often rough due to the winds that predominately blow eastwards down the shore. It was a pleasant ride, but as it was a hot day we were dripping with sweat.

The afternoon we set off to walk around the village and check out a seafood restaurant that our taxi driver had recommended.

So out the marina, over the bridge and turning right we entered the village. We needed to ask the way to the tiny restaurant, finally finding it at the end of a narrow lane between homes and at the end where we had to ring the buzzer of a large door to be admitted to the restaurant.

We ordered some ceviche to share and sat on the porch over looking the small fishing port and boats. The ceviche was excellent, not sure what fish had been used but it was very good and a large portion. From there we wandered the tiny streets making our way to the shoreline. There we saw fishermen cleaning fish, the boats were made of Styrofoam strapped together in the shape of a boat.

Off of a large breakwater there were a few windsurfers. They must be excellent at their sport as the conditions were very windy and rough and without easy access to the shore it is not a coastline for amaturers.

Casablanca and 2nd visit to Havana

Our 2nd visit to Havana was on a Saturday and the whole atmosphere was different but very enjoyable. This time the children were not in school and were playing on the streets, families were relaxing and congregating in the alleys, mothers were shopping and family groups were out for the day.

Once again we caught a taxi into Havana. This driver was speedy as in like a racing driver he even had us strap into our seatbelts in the back seats!

We alighted at Castillio del la Real Fuerza which we had previously visited on our last visit and made our way through the plazas and narrow lanes to the

Cross Bay ferry for Cassablanca.

Along the way we stopped at a small plaza where venders were selling old, old books and antiques. Most of the books were political in theme and many of the antiques were old currency, stamps, commemorative medals and such. It was really interesting almost like an out doors museum.

The Cross Bay ferry was small, ancient and quite crowded, there seemed to be many young folks heading to Cassablanca.

It was interesting looking at the buildings along the harbour for example the Sacra Catedral Ortodoxa Rusa – the Orthadox Russian cathedral next to the old port, quite sad to see the deterioration of the docks.

Upon reaching Casablanca we followed the crowd up the hill noting that most of them headed towards the gates of Castillio de los Tres Reyes del Morro aka El Morro.

Our first destination was the massive statue of Christ upon the hilltop – El Cristo de La Habana. It is made totally of marble and was erected just before the take over of Cuba by Castro. Our reason to visit was for the views of Havana across the waterway. The view was excellent and the statue really awesome in its size.

Our second destination was El Morro and again my reason to visit was for the view and to see the old fortifications.

We entered the huge gates and again noted all the folks heading the same way, thinking it must be some sort of pilgrimage or such. Inside the gates the walls rise to a great height around you, realizing they were built between 1589 – 1630 makes them even more impressive. How did they ever cut the huge stones and them haul them into place?

We followed along and up a rampart where there was a small opening to El Morro. Inside there was just a huge crowd of young people. Unfortunately I needed the banyo, well that proved to be a most unpleasant experience as the line was long, the smell very horrible and the conditions nasty.

We headed to the top of the ramparts and walked along enjoying the amazing view across to Havana.

The majority of the others were in the lower areas of the fortifications and it appeared to be some sort of fair, or festival for the young. Long story short we walked the ramparts, enjoyed the views and headed back to the Cross Bay ferry.

Havana again

Once back on the other shore we set off to explore areas of Havana we had not see previously.

“Ah…Havana, city of jarring paradoxes and unfathomable contradictions where seductive beauty sidles up to spectacular decay and revolutionary iconography is juxtaposed with sun, sea, sand, sex and a diluting slice of austere socialism. There’s fascinating history here, wrapped up in erudite museums and foresighted restoration projects, and tremendous music too, from gritty street rumba to kitschy cabaret.

But Havana’s greatest allure is its street theater, the raw snippets of everyday life that go on all around you: the mother in rollers and the baseball-playing schoolkids, the wandering troubadours and the cigar-smoking doctor trying to jumpstart his 1951 Plymouth. The attraction is the authenticity. Habaneros (the people of Havana) don’t just survive: they duck and dive, scheme and dream, create and debate, but most of all, they live – with a rare passion.” – Lonely Planet

Once again we were totally absorbed by watching life unfold around us in this amazing city.

Our starting area was Plaza Vieja – Old Havana with its restored porlicoed buildings and its cobbled streets we wandered.

We did enter the Convento de Santa Clara de Asis and admire the architecture and artwork. Plus at the Plaza de la San Fransisco we visited the Convento de San Fransisco de Asis which was a Franciscan friar missionary school built in 1739 where we had a marvelous view from the upper floors over the plaza.

From plaza to plaza we explored the streets and alleyways of Havana until we were exhausted and headed home in an old taxi of American heritage, from which we could see the road through holes on the floor driven by a father and son. Another thoroughly enjoyable day in Havana.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

How we pay attention to the present moment largely determines the character of our experience and, therefore, the quality of our lives. Sam Harris

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Onto Marina Hemingway and Havana

Posted on February 11, 2018 by

 

PHOTOS LINK –>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/rfE9L6eXImFc2tbs1

Cayo Blanca

We were at Cayo Blanca for a few hours before we sailed to Marina Hemmingway. The water was just beautiful! However the main purpose was to get the boat ready for the 80 odd miles over night to Havana. The passage was a wonderful one. The only slight worry were the numerous little lights shinning on the water. They were actually lights from floating fishing lines attached to wooden crosses and a light, the Cuban fishermen’s night fishing tactics.

Marina Hemingway

Arriving at Marina Hemingway we were once again boarded by very young, mini skirted, officials wearing fishnet stockings. The young ladies filled out numerous paper work, looked through the boat and were very impressed with Chico, taking photos of our boy. Then we were off to channel 1 the dock where we were helped to tie up, hooked up with power and visited by the vet and agricultural fellows, who again couldn’t get enough of Chico. Yes Chico has proven to be a star here, folks actually visit us to see him and take pictures of him or with him, just crazy…..

Marina Hemmingway – 10 2018-02-09 00:33UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=23.088203&lon=-82.500472 Sent via Iridium GO!

Into Havana

Our friends on Kestrel were also on dock 1 and they asked if we wanted to share a taxi into Havana the next day, so nice and early we were Havana bound via a taxi – a 1957 automobile!

We drove the 9 miles to Havana mainly along the front enjoying every bit of the journey, as it was so very different. There we disembarked at the Museo de la Revolution agreeing to meet there at 4:30.

 

There are no words to adequately describe Havana. It is the most amazing city we both have ever visited. It is vibrant, colourful, seducing you to wander the streets and alleyways for miles with the sites forever changing. Everywhere there is just too much to see.

 

Yes, it is simply too hard to describe Havana in few words. From the moment we set foot out of the old American car/taxi we felt as if time stood still in this place, that we had somehow traveled through a time capsule and landed in a beautiful yet chaotic and extremely poor city 50 years ago.

“No one could have invented Havana. It’s too audacious, too contradictory, and – despite 50 years of withering neglect – too damned beautiful. How it does it is anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the swashbuckling history still almost perceptible in atmospheric colonial streets; the survivalist spirit of a populace scarred by two independence wars, a revolution and a US trade embargo; or the indefatigable salsa energy that ricochets off walls and emanates most emphatically from the people. Don’t come here with a long list of questions. Just arrive with an open mind and prepare for a long, slow seduction.” – Lonely Planet

After being dropped at the Museo de la Revolucion John and I wandered for hours, our route taking us firstly across the Monumento a Maximo Gomez towards the Castillio de San Salvador de la Punta There we could see across the entrance to Havana’s harbour to the lighthouse and Casa Blanca on the other side. There were quaint fishing boats heading back to port from fishing the scene was lovely.

We then crossed the Parque de los Martires and onto Paseo de Marti with its centre pedestrian walkway. Both side were lined with such interesting buildings where people where on porches, hanging clothes, or just gossiping. Everywhere we turned there was another story being played out. And some this was how the day continued for us.

 

We found Havana an enchanting and intriguing city. It is like no other place we have been. To say it is unique is an understatement, because its individuality is seen everywhere. I saw everyday sights, which never failed to surprise me. There were roosters, dogs, and cats roaming the streets, black smoke spewing from the old American cars, young boys on rollerblades holding on to buses and flying down main streets.

 

There were kids playing baseball with sticks and bottle caps, climbing the church gates to enter the grassy grounds to play. Laundry hanging and ladies gossiping from balconies that were near collapsing and opposite them amazingly crafted buildings having been lovingly restored. On and on sites were ever changing, every corner we turned we were surprised.

We wandered down alleys, across plazas just glued to the scenes around us, such an amazing city and nation of people.

 

Some of he highlights were simple: watching the school children play with the stilted performers and then watching them play in the park old fashioned games,

seeing the fishermen catching Jacks right out of the harbour, an old lady relaxing on the balcony way above the street, seeing the numerous happy people on the streets strolling back from work are just a few example of what made our first day in Havana special for John and myself.

Our return to the marina was again in an old fashioned American car that had been restored. The young fellow who drove us was charming and obviously very proud of his country. We all were exhausted!!

You’re worried about how you’re going to feel at the end of your life? What about right now? Live. Right this minute. That’s where the joy is at. :- Abigail Thomas

Travel is more than the seeing of the sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living:- Miriam Beard

 

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Marathon to Veradero Cuba, Feb. 2018

Posted on February 9, 2018 by

 

PHOTO LINK——>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdN8BMxzKqhCPVJi1  

Crossing to Cuba

Well we crossed to Cuba arriving yesterday, February 2nd morning. The passage was not fun, one of the worse, the weather was predicted to be 10-15 knots and instead was a steady over 20 knots with highest gust being 27 knots. Add that to opposing Gulf Stream current and we got a very nasty ride. I got sick, poor John had to do it all…. Anyway it wasn’t a long passage just 18 hours and we arrived in Marina Gaviota in Varadero……  08 2018-02-02 16:53UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=23.190940&lon=-81.126317

We found the navigation charts to be very accurate when we were approaching the marina. The officials were excellent; they were waiting at the dock to help tie us up! There were a few officials involved, the doctor and the customs, both ladies were young professional and very attractive. They were very thorough, really checked all our documents reading everything, taking pictures of passport pages, boat papers just everything. Then we separately had walk across the dock into the customs house, which was very modern and just empty. There they photographed us and checked the passport again. After that the agricultural fellow and vet came onboard and checked our food and the vet checked Chico and his passport and health certificates. The vet was concerned that Chico’s shots were due in March of this year, so he arranged for him to be visited again the next day to get his rabies shot, costing us only $10! Anyway we were very impressed.

Marina Gaviota

The marina was built for 1,000 boats and there are just 6 of us here on our pier, so lots of spare dockage inside the marina. It’s new with all the facilities plus it is very inexpensive, $26 per night all-inclusive electricity, water and marina facilities. Attached to the marina is a small shopping tourist area, which caters to all the guests in the hotels. The entire peninsula caters to tourists with the Playa Blanca, one of the best beaches in the Caribbean stretching all along the outside shore.

Our first full day was miserable weather and we just walked around the hotel/plaza area, bought our Internet cards and exchanged some money. There are 2 currencies here, the one for the tourist and the one for locals. The local money buys much more, so that’s what we need to get next time.

We also used our bikes and rode around checking the rest of this end of the peninsular. We found there is not much to see as the facilities are all signed – No Passé – and have “guards”.

Cuba – cars

I think one of the most striking things you notice when you arrive in Cuba are the cars. They are mainly the very old from back in the 1900s. Most are just beautifully maintained. John has been just fasinated by all of them.

Veradero

On Sunday, February 4th we went on the bus to Verenaro the main centre for the tourist area found at the end of the peninsular on the mainland. To get there we got the Tourista bus, which is a double decker bus wit the top being open – natural air conditioning. The ride in and back was very interesting, passing all the many resorts, which are government run. They are beautifully maintained, manicured grounds with lovely architecture. I would imagine quite luxurious to stay in with all the extras.

Once in Veradero we walked towards Santa Marta the closest local village. We walked along the main road and the waterway to get to the marina – Darsnia where we planned to stay for a few days. Upon reaching the marina we found it to be quite adequate and with its close location to the village we thought exploring the area would be fun.

Back to Valadero we walked and found a restaurant for lunch. Ordering sandwiches, as  after showing us the menu that was what we were told all they had, no papa frias, aka French fries, no hambergesas, just cheese, ham and cheese and tuna sandwiches. My tuna sandwich I think was actually sardine and really wasn’t very impressive.

After lunch we strolled the streets and stopped to look at the beach and crafts. The beach Playa Blanca was amazing! Miles long with crystal clear water and fine white sand this beach really is rated as one of the best and you can see why, as it really looks it.

The crafts in the market were also impressive. The artwork – paintings were colourful and excellent plus there were many crafts that we had never seen before, wooden toys, cars and hats made from soda and beer cans, wonderful woodcarvings and excellent leatherwork, but no we didn’t buy anything.

Change of plans:

Our plan as mentioned was to sail to Darsinia And stay at the marina however when checking out of Veradero we were once again inspected by the officials and told it was not possible to go there unless we gave them our frutas/fruit. Reason/excuse being that Darsinia did not have an incinerator for our trash. Anyway what ever the fact or truth is we could not go there.

So it was plan B……go to Cayo Blanca, and outside Cay and get ready to sail over night to Havana and Marina Hemmingway. Cayo Largo was a beautiful anchorage, the sea crystal clear, turquoise and full of life. From there we set sail at 3:30 for Havana.

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience

Eleanor Roosevelt

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