Aeeshah

 

PHOTOS LINK —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7oRouf9lbQpVQAp1

Isla Mujares, Mexico:

Our passage to Isla Mujares went well, just not as fast as we had hoped. By 05:00 we were only 30 odd miles away when we found the 2-knot current wanting to return us to Cuba. So, we did not get into Isla Mujares until 2:30pm, it was just crazy, we were so close and yet so far to go. The current increased our mileage by 34 or so miles, whereas the actual distance is 110 nm. we did 144nm.

We saved our checking in for the next day and just as well we did as it took from 9:30 till 3:00pm – about half an hour more than last time, luckily I took my kindle with me. Mexico must hold the world record for buerocratic BS. The amount of paperwork is quite astounding, 5 copies of everything, all stamped. First we had to visit the hospital a taxi ride away. Then walk to the paper store to get 5 copies of all the documents, back to the hospital, then back to the port captain’s, more paperwork, off to the bank to pay 1^st fee, back to port captain, see the health person, this official that official, off to the bank again, on and on.

This year the agriculture lady decided that Chico might have parasites, (he wasn’t there and his papers were all in order), so she called a vet. He made a certificate stating Chico was healthy and clear of parasites; with out even seeing him, we paid 300 pesoes. The Mexican system is without a doubt the craziest we have ever encountered. And you just have to sit, smile and tolerate the BS.

In the year since we had left Isla Mujares had a few changes, no longer was the port captain’s dock available to cruisers for anything but checking in and out. So most folks were using the beach or one of the bars. We used the beach and also a very nice bar called “Skulls Landing”. It’s new and the staff are helpful and friendly. We enjoyed several times we enjoyed a drink while using their wifi or met friends and had an evening drink.

We met and made new friends, Ginny and Stefan being the main ones. With them we travelled to Cancun one day to get odds and ends. As normal the weather was great, we caught the ferry across and the taxi to the Plaza Los Americana’s where we also had lunch. We checked another mall for the out door sandals I wanted and finished up at a few marine shops before returning on the ferry. It sure was a contrast to just a week prior in Cuba.

John and I mainly stocked up on what was needed aboard and within 3 trips we were pretty much ready to leave.

John was also kept busy helping different folks on different boats. He saved a boat that was dragging down the anchorage into others, he gave dingy rides to folks and their dog Spike whose dingy engine had failed and leant money to same couple who had also lost their cards; found a woman who for some reason unknown jumped off her boat at 10:00pm and disappeared, her husband put out a call for help and he managed to recover a catamaran that had dragged onto mud flats in the lagoon. John was everyones hero!

We enjoyed a couple of cruiser pizza nights at one of the marinas. Plus a few walk around Isla Mujares, but soon it was time to move on.

El Cid Marina and Resort:

Our next stop was a marina El Cid at Puerto Morelos about 30 miles southwards down the coast. Our main purpose for the marina was to get caught up with all our online business and to get the boat well cleaned up. Both of which we accomplished.

El Cid was a huge surprise; we knew it was a resort/marina, but not any of the details. The resort was quite amazing to me having never seen any place like it.

Well its quite the place! On the beach, with all sorts of water facilities, a huge dolphinarium, many large pools all with different themes and entertainment, several jacuzzis, outdoor massage areas, gym and spa, many different bar areas with entertainment, about 6 restaurants with all different types of foods, just absolutely everything and we had the use of the facilities.

However we didn’t have the eating options that the resort folks had, but could go to the buffet breakfasts, lunches and dinners for a nominal fee. It was fun just to walk around looking at the place and people watching; well we did do a few breakfasts but that was about all.

Around the marina resort property were mangroves ponds and small wildlife sanctuary areas. I enjoyed spotting several different quite rare birds, on several days a Anhinga, a Cuban bird, was resting and drying its wings,

a Tri Coloured Heron was visiting one pond one early morning

and in another under a small bridge were a few resident Mexican saltwater crocodiles, which I was able to photograph.

Chico had an unusual relationship with the birds at the marina, more so one particular bird. When he first went ashore – dockside about 10 or so birds of various types, Gackles, kiscadee and mocking birds came and started shrieking at him. Basically telling him to leave. They would bomb dive him and try to scare him back to the boat. He quite nonchalently walked the docks, chattered back and tried staring them down. Over the days most of the birds gave up, possibly they could see he was just not able to be of any harm.

One particular mocking bird never gave up, every time Chico was out of the boat, even in the cockpit the bird scolded him, saying, “tchach! tchach!”  Then he would dive bomb Chico, going closer and closer seemingly just to tease Chico. This made Chico quite frustrated and angry, he swished his tail, squatted down chattering back at the bird. The dockworker, George said it was like the cartoon Tom and Jerry except being a cat and a bird not a mouse; everyone was well entertained watching the pair.

 

Puerto Morelos:

Close to the marina was the little town of Puerto Morelos. We walked the mile and a half there twice to look around and to get what we needed aboard. It is a really small, quiet town.

Off we went towards Belize, making a few stops along the way. We did an overnight sail to:

Bahia del Espiritu Santo

This is a large shallow bay about 80 miles south of Puerto Morelos. We entered and followed the waypoints that we had from friends and Captain Freya’s book towards Owen Island. It took about 2 hours to follow the plotted route to the anchorage, this bay is just HUGE. Once we were behind Owen Island we dropped anchor and appreciated the quiet, solitude of the bay. John went to nap after being up most of the night and I started to tidy up from the previous night. Low and behold 1^st a small motorboat came into the bay and dropped a man and a ton of gear off on the beach. The boat left and the man appeared to be scouting the area while trying to ward off the bugs attacking him. Then a while later around the corner appeared about a dozen double kayaks with a few adults but mainly young teens aboard. Gone was our solitude, but we gained entertainment watching them set up a camp of tents, some of which had no tent poles, on a beach that was teeming with horseflies and mosquitoes. Anyway they appeared to be having a good time despite the discomforts.

We dingied around the area, walked a few beaches and were annoyed and bitten by the horse flies too.

The following day we moved out into the outer bay where we dropped the anchor in sand behind the reef. There we had a good breeze and fewer bugs. We spent the afternoon snorkeling and it was just wonderful! The reef was quite lovely with plenty of fish. Unfortunately there were quite large areas of stag horn coral that had died. This was in the shallows so I’m guessing global warming is to blame.

Cayo Norte, Chinchorro Bank

Was our next stop. We had a great 35-mile sail from Bahia del Espiritu Santo to Cayo Norte, on the Chinchorro Bank. The Chinchorro Bank is one of the four true atolls in our hemisphere. It is a kidney shaped platform reef that is about 9 miles wide at the widest area and 26 miles long. On it are several cays, Cayo Norte being the northern one. The Mexican government declared the Chinchorro Bank a Biosphere Reserve in 1996 in order to try to save this unique atoll’s natural and unique habitants.

 

The area is absolutely amazing. The water crystal clear, the cay beautiful and underwater is wonderful.

When we arrived we looked for the buoys that were supposed to be there for sailboats to use, but there were none. So we anchored in the grassy sandy area off of Cayo Norte. It was later in the day so we just had a swim and relaxed. The next morning we went ashore and met the Mexican marines that are stationed there. They were friendly fellows who allowed us to walk around the cay as long as I didn’t photograph them or their quarters.

The cay is very pretty. The marines filled out the required paperwork and came out to the boat for us to sign the documents while they videoed us signing, why? We haven’t a clue, maybe Mexican National Safety? Anyway they were very nice fellows who loved Chico and thought he was a puma.

The afternoon we spent snorkeling the reefs. We dingied to the northern edge and on the way across we saw a large nurse shark just basking on the sandy bottom.

The reefs were exquisite, amazingly alive with fish and corals of all types. We saw 2 more nurse sharks, areas of healthy stag horn coral, schools of all different fish. It was just the perfect area to snorkel.

The next day we enjoyed the morning and set off for another over night to Belize.

I want to see more of it. Travel. Discover. Wander and wonder. And let life itself be my great adventure. – Oprah Winfrey

 

 

 

PHOTOS LINK —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/5SKDdMUK8S66rEFw2

Cayo Guano del Este again

From Cienfuegos we set off to spend time in the southern cays of Cuba. We left Cienfuegos and headed to Cayo Guano del Este where we hoped to spend a quiet night. It was a long downwind sail and we arrived finding just one other sailboat.

However after going below for dinner around 7:30 when we went back up into the cockpit we found we were surrounded by 7 catamarans, charterers and they were nearly all partying aboard. Then the wind rose and we were stuck in the middle of drunken charterers on catamarans with guts of 30 knots. Not a good position for us, but little we could do, so John slept in the cockpit with the drag alarm on and ready to spring into action. He reported the next morning that the noisy partying continued till the early hours, and he slept very little. We were well away from there at daybreak.

Cayo Largo briefly

We stopped at Cayo Largo for the night so that we could dingy into the marina and grab a few minutes of wifi. We didn’t check with the Guarda Fronteras as it was pointless and luckily we got a half hour of wifi without any issues.

Rosario Cays

Early in the morning we were off to the Rosario Cays via the outside route. It was a fairly good downwind sail arriving at the Cayo Del Rosarios in the afternoon we carefully made our way in through the reef. The anchorage area is very large, but it took us a while to find an area that was deep sand, the rest was shallow sand over reef or just reef.

This anchorage is just wonderful. Inside the reef so not rolly, with a great breeze and far enough off shore to stop mosquitoes. A short while later the Cuban park rangers crossed from the neighboring island – Cayo Cantiles where their camp is located. Their mission was to sell us lobsters. They were not interested in the rum, just wanting 5 CUC ($5.00) per lobster. John bought 2 for dinner. These guys said no photos, guess, as they are the park rangers, they just loved Chico. In fact the following day they arrived with more lobster for us but free fish for Chico’s dinner. They also invited us to cross to visit Cayo Cantiles, which we never had time to.

The following days we spent exploring the area. We dingied all along the shoreline of Cayo Rosario passed the mangroves stopping to pull the dingy onto the beach. There we walked and beach combed the shoreline which we both love doing.

We took the dingy between the shallow reef and the shore all the way to a wonderful beach in another bay on the other side of the Cay. There again we walked and explored, John had his bathing suit on and swam, and I just jumped into the water to cool off clothes and all. The water was just wonderful, crystal clear, with wonderful blues and turquoises, just exquisite.

In the afternoons we snorkeled. The reef was lovely, full of corals and fish. There were live conch, fish we rarely see and of course huge barracudas, which were too friendly and came too close.

We did see a few other boats, but on the whole we were all alone in the Cayo Rosario anchorage. It was a memorable and wonderful few days.

You have no control over how your story begins or ends. But now, you should know that all things have an ending. Every spark returns to darkness. Every sound returns to silence. Every flower returns to sleep with the earth. The journey of the sun and moon is predictable. But yours, is your ultimate art. – Suzy Kassem

 

PHOTO LINK –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/C3L6Qze3oHBCq7bN2

Cayo Largo and Cayos Dios – Cayo Sal and Cayo Guano Este

We did a 38-hour passage to Cayo Largo from Maria Gorda,

leaving at 05:00 hours, not my favourite time to leave. Overall it was a good passage, we could have used more wind but the current wasn’t against us, the seas were average and we were comfortable.

Cayo Largo

Cayo Largo was where we needed to be on the 4^th March, to renew our visas. We arrived on the 3^rd in the evening and anchored, not going ashore to the Guarda Frontera, as we were both needing rest.

Visa renewal

We chose to anchor in the inner bay area, which was totally sheltered, quiet and calm. The next morning we went in the dingy, tied up to the dock at the marina and looked for the Guarda Frontera office.

The renewal process was painless, totally easy and as he told up our visas were good until midnight we were in plenty of time. First we had to go to the bank and purchase two 20 stamps and two 5 stamps, and return. These are visa stamps, which are officially attached to your visa. In the bank we found that there were 2 lines, but one dealt with the 5 stamps and 1 dealt with the 20 stamps, and no they could not pass them between, you have to go from one line to the next. So leaving passports, stamps and all with the Guarda we set off to find wifi and have a look around.

Cayo Largo was again not what we had expected. The whole Cayo is for tourists and caters to tourists, no locals live there, the locals are just staff that work on a monthly basis. The marina area where we were just deals with sailboats, charters, diving, water excursions etc. There are a few very basic tiendas – shops with souvenirs, sodas and snacks, no foods or supplies that cruisers need. The tourists staying in hotels along the beach are further down the Cay and are transported by little trains. Coaches transport the staff. There is an airport where the tourists enter and leave. It impressed us as being quite regimented without the average tourist realizing that it is so. We sat next to the restaurant area and did our online business and emails.

The inside anchorage was where we were anchored and despite it being some way from the marina we had been informed that we would need to pay $.30 per foot per day. This did not go down well with either of us, so we determined to have a look around and leave as soon as possible.

We explored the bar near the anchorage. It is a lovely bar at the end of a wonderfully long beach.

The water was gorgeous, the colours just stunning and with conchs and starfish right up to the shoreline. We landed the dingy and walked the beach area enjoying the lovely scenery.

Mangrove channels

Later that day we set off to find the fuel dock, which was located in a mangrove lagoon near the small, port where supply boats land.

The reflections along the shoreline were just perfect for photography, so very symmetrical. The fuel dock, when we found it was locked off and looked to be little used. John decided we could do without the hassle of getting fuel. We continued along the mangrove channels and found that it was just lovely.

There were wading birds all around, clear waters in which countless fish swam, rays gliding by, reflections all around from the sunny still day. The water was flowing through between the mangrove isles, schools of large Jacks flew past, parrotfish grazed below, and other reef fish were around the corals, a very healthy area.

Cayo Iguana 

Heading back to the boat we ventured towards a cayo where we had seen tourist boats stop, plus where I had seen what looked like a white cliff. Approaching the cay the water shallowed into lagoon type bay surrounded by bars, so we got out and dragged the dingy across the shallows to the beach.

Straight away we were approached by dozens of iguanas, all sizes, some creeping up and some running up to greet us. The visiting boats must feed them, as they seemed to expect food from us. It really was quite a sight being surrounded by dozens of iguanas. We walked along the cay and could see how the iguanas had burrows in the soft sandstone cliff. John found that inland was infested with mosquitoes, so there was probably a salt pond there.

Los Dios Cays

Leaving Cayo Largo we sailed for the Los Dios Cays. These are a small group of cays that are the finals cays of the southern chain situated right on the edge of the deep water. The passage took us first in the deep water off the bank of reef and then we cut into the shallows to seek calmer waters.

The shallows are just beautifully clear; you feel for sure that the boat will hit the bottom, but its deep, just that the crystal clear waters give the illusion of being shallow.

Cayo Sal

Cayo Sal was our stop for the day. This is literally just a very narrow, long rock isle with about 7 palm trees trying to survive. The surrounding reef is amazing and we really wished to return to snorkel.

We were the only boat, that evening I looked out and saw what appeared to be an apparition, a small wooden boat was approaching, sure enough out of nowhere appeared a small wooden fishing boat with 4 Cuban guys, an ancient engine bellowing smoke and awash in the bilges dozens of lobsters and silk snappers. These were a very happy group of fishermen, they wanted rum for lobsters. Plus they asked if we had any spare flippers as theirs were falling apart. So we traded a pair of fins and a small bottle of rum for 8 lobsters, however we only took 4 as we just could not manage the rest. The guys were very happy. They were also very impressed with Chico; he was very impressed with their fish and lobster.

Cayo Guano Del Este

We were supposed to sail to Cienfuegos, but instead pulled into the last cay in the chain. This anchorage is supposedly just a day anchorage, or a night anchorage in dead calm conditions. The weather looked great, the lighthouse on the cay and the beautiful crystal clear waters were just too tempting to pass by.

So we anchored, it was just 9:00am, and we had a full day to enjoy the cay. There were already 2 other boats in the anchorage, a chartered catamaran and a mono cruiser like us. I was very happy to see the dingy from the other cruiser’s boat go to the shore a be greeted by the lighthouse keeper, so not long later we were off ashore too.

The lighthouse

Upon reaching the rocky shoreline the keeper and his assistant were there to help us ashore and to greet us. The keeper William and his helper Frank were very sweet. They let us roam around and even climb up the lighthouse.

The view from the top was awesome, just spectacular looking out across the reefs.

We roamed all the way along the inside shore to the eastern point and then all along the outside shore back to the lighthouse. It was a great hike.

The young helper Frank showed us how he had a fishing rod but had lost all his hooks so we returned with some fishhooks and some chocolate kisses I had on board. Then they gave us this root vegetable, a very strange looking brown tuber sort of like a bulb. Anyway William explained to me how to cook it, which I did that night and it was very nice, reminds one of a potato.

The afternoon we went in the dingy along the inside shoreline, looking at the rocky shoreline and the few weathered inlets. We stopped and snorkeled, the water was clear, the reefs wonderful and fish of all types and sizes everywhere. Another lovely day.

 

That evening about half a dozen chartered catamarans appeared and anchored in the same anchorage. It was suddenly crowded and no longer peaceful. The wind rose and started blowing too strongly for comfort. Our night’s sleep was not restful. John was up most of the night watching out for dragging catamarans. However all was fine and we were off at sunrise for Cienfuegos.

“Life can be found only in the present moment.” —  Thich Nhat Hanh

 

 

 

PHOTO LINK à> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HM9H3v9Z4n07Fsg63   Maria Gorda

 

Capo San Antonio to Maria Gorda

Having enjoyed our time at Capo San Antonio and meeting several fellow cruisers we left for a day sail around the Cape. We had waited for the weather to calm as we had been told the winds and seas can be vicious with the currents strong making for a very difficult passage east. We were fortunate as our crossing was relatively smooth; John had chosen the weather window well.

The cape itself is just a bare, rocky, cliff coast. We did see the bus running along the only road atop of the cliffs and a ship wrecked off the formidable looking shoreline.

The previous day/night one of the other sailboats had left we were happy to see them as soon as we arrived. Chris and Jess came out to “catch up” and were then off in their dingy. Then that evening the weather changed, we had much welcomed rain and also thunder and lightening.

 

The bay itself is huge with a beach running along the shoreline on the side we were on. The water just crystal clear, turquoises, aquamarine blues in every direction, just lovely. We had to pick up a buoy, as the area is a marine park so we were attached to one of the dive buoys and could easily see the reef below.

We headed ashore to the resort and dive center to “check in “ with the Guarda Frontera and to get some wifi connection for emails. The resort looks to be well established as a dive center. It was also relatively busy with guests. Again there were cats roaming around, kittens scrounging food, a nice bar area and comfortable looking accommodations.

A small cruise ship arrived for part of one day. Its passengers too were taken on the dive boats to snorkel and dive. It is definitely a destination I would recommend.

Our first day was spent taking the dingy along the shoreline towards the mouth of the bay along the beach and cliffs. The scenery was just wonderful, wild, untouched and untamed. We were able to pull the dingy onto a beach past the cliffs in an area where I doubt many folks ever get to see.

There we walked the beach. I was very contented to wander looking for shells, driftwood and sea glass. All of which I was able to find amongst the seaweed and sponges that had washed ashore. John strode out ahead and was soon in the distance. Thus the morning passed with us beach combing and very happily exploring the shoreline.

The afternoon we took the dingy to one of the dive buoys tied up and snorkeled the reef.

It was exquisite, the corals numerous and varied, schools and schools of fish of many varieties. We both saw fish we had never seem before and even rare species not usually seen for example hamlet and grouper. However the water is still chilly being February, so after an hour or so we had to get out.

The next day we enjoyed first exploring another area of the beach, near what looked to be an abandoned marina area. The inland area is densely forested with a palm tree species and other shrubs. Above the beach area is a long “wall of old gray, rocks that looks as if someone had build a wall.

However you realize that it’s the sea that has built the wall of rocks. The rocks have rolled and been thrown ashore over time with the high seas.

A walk towards the cliffs was very different as along this stretch the beach was more reef and so we waded in the shallows. It was just a lovely walk along the shoreline.

We both loved this beautiful area of Cuba and hope to return. After just a few days we needed to head out to Cayo Largo as our visa renewal was due. So we did a 184 passage straight to Cayo Largo.

“This world is but canvas to our imaginations.”  ― Henry David Thoreau

 

 

 

 

PHOTOS LINK à> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xla7O3Sp3jIl6bUm2

Our intension had been to spend only a few days in Hemmingway Marina, but that turned in 5 days. Chico was a huge star there, so many folks wanted to see him and photograph him. He seemed to enjoy the celebrity status.

February 12^th we said goodbye to our friends on Kestrel, who we had originally met in Brunswick, Georgia in late October. Then we went to the customs immigration dock and had paperwork sorted, received our dispatch papers and they checked boat again. The two young lady officials, came aboard, had a look and then wanted to hold and photograph Chico. So finally we set off for our first anchorage Bahia Honda.

Bahia Honda

This was a very protected anchorage in a large mangrove lagoon. Nearby there was an old shipyard that appeared to still be active, but also had several rusted ship hulks nearby.

We had a very quiet evening and only saw a couple of fishermen the next morning, they waved as they passed.

Cayo Levista

 

Cayo Levista was our second anchorage and my favourite. On this Cayo there is a small eco resort, plus there is a Guarda Frontera there daily. So we started by checking in with the Guarda. which is a must in Cuba. After which there was time to have a quick peek at where we were.

The beach on the other side was just magnificent! The resort looks lovely, beautiful place to stay. We were anchored just off of the resorts dock area and surprisingly there were no mosquitoes despite the nearby mangroves.

The following day we set off to explore the Cayo. First walking through the resort to the beach we then set off towards the eastern end of the Cayo. Here the beach wound along the coast and when the mangrove area started there was a pathway that we took continuing towards the end, which was a huge sandbar.

There we walked to the bitter end. There was an old wooden pier, which John went towards and suddenly sank up to his upper thigh in what had appeared to be sand, but was actually silt. At the time it was quite hilarious, but for a child could be quite dangerous.

At the center of the sandbar was an old palm thatched bar area where we stopped for a while just enjoying the day.

Back towards the beach we wandered and then proceeded to walk nearly to the other end along the beach. There were so many Portuguese Men of War washed ashore along the beach, some shells but few birds.

The afternoon we took the dingy and headed westwards along the mangroves. The lagoons were lovely, the water so clear, and finally I saw birds amongst the trees, herons, pelicans and a frigate bird.

We found one lagoon area, which was actually on the other side of the beach we had walked along in the morning. So we paddled the dingy ashore, pulled it up on the beach and walked along the stretch of beach we had missed in the morning, not a soul was in sight.

Upon returning to the dingy, surprisingly enough there was a cruising sailboat dropping anchor just outside the lagoon. They were as surprised to see us, as we were them. They had arrived from the same direction as us, but are headed to Mexico.

Cayo Restinga del Palo

Was our next evening anchorage. This passage was the one where John caught an enormous Wahoo.

We had had 2 barracuda strikes, which we released, and then, just as we were getting ready to head into the anchorage the rod went ziiinnnngggg!!! It took quite a long time to clean being about 40 – 45lbs of fish, but after filleting and all we had 3 large bags of fish for us and 1 for Chico. He was a very happy cat with all the fresh fish and blood.

 

The anchorage was behind a small Cayo and a sand bar, luckily it was not too windy so we did not bounce about too much. We never did go ashore, but left next morning to outside the reefs and round Cayo Jutias past the lighthouse to our next anchorage.

Punta Alonso de Rojas.

We had good reason not to fish that day as we were over stocked with Wahoo. When rounding Cayo Jutias there were many strong currents and whirlpools where the sea was disturbed and in these were just hundreds of Portuguese Men of War. I had never seen anything like that, there were just hundreds of them. Arriving at Punta Alonso de Rojas we found it to be another mangrove anchorage. We had a swim and enjoyed a quiet evening.

Cayo Buenvista

Was our next anchorage. Along the way there we accidentally came across a couple of fishermen. Accidentally because I was below deck and John was distracted by his book when he heard shouts. We had sailed nearly alongside them in their little fishing boat. They were very happy to have us drop by and asked if we would like to buy some la langosta aka lobster from them for 3CUC. Well despite having a ton of fish John felt we should buy 2. Then he went to find his wallet, well as we hadn’t used money for a number of days he couldn’t find it, so he ended up trading a couple of his T shirts. That evening we really did enjoy the lobster grilled on the barbeque.

Ensenada de San Fransisco

Was our next anchorage for the evening. This was an enormous bay again surrounded by mangroves with not a building, light or sign of human inhabitants in sight. Later we did have a fishing vessel drop anchor near us. It was one of the larger vessels and had a crew of 4 who would dive from the small rowboat that they also had with them.

2 of the crew came across in the rowboat. This time it was Red Snappers that they had for us and they wanted rum. Well we explained we really did not need fish, but they could have one of John’s small rums he had bought to trade with. They were nice fellows who chatted with John, just interested in where we were from and such. Once again Chico was a big hit!!

Marina Gaviota, Los Morros, Cabo de San Antonio Peninsula

We decided to head into this marina, which is at the end of the Cabo de San Antonio Peninsula. Arriving mid-afternoon when the wind was blowing quite strongly we found that the dock lies more or less south – north facing and the wind blows eastwardly mostly so the waves break along the eastern stretch of dock space, leaving the westward side for docking. It was quite a challenge to get the boat secured to the dock, but without mishap and with the assistance of several folks we were secured. The dock can only hold 3 boats, it is small, very rough concrete with gas pumps and construction in progress, well maybe not progressing, but sitting waiting to be to be finished.

We “checked” in again and found that there was indeed wifi so we could use our cards, plus a very nice little eatery and so booked a dinner. The food was very good, but American prices are not.

The other boats were 1 that left the next morning for Mexico and the other with 2 Americans, one originally from India and the other from Hawaii, whom we ended up having a very nice dinner with. Then a day later at around 8:00pm another small boat arrived from Belize with 4 aboard, 2 from Sweden, 1 from France and a Canadian. So then the dock was full again. We actually were getting used to the rough dock and surroundings by the 2^nd day.

Peninsula de Gaunahacabibes

John off loaded the bikes and we rode along the only road towards the small hotel. This hotel caters to people visiting the Peninsula de Gaunahacabibes. This peninsular is almost entirely a national forest park, with just the 1 small roadway in and out and the 2 very small “hotels” for tourists who like to bird watch or hike in the forest looking for wildlife. There are no ATMs, shops, fuel stations, houses or anything – it is a very isolated peninsular and marina that we were staying in.

That day we rode to the small hotel, which looked to only have a few workers there. We walked to the hotel beach, which is long and beautiful, we saw wild pigs, many birds but little else. 

On the way back we took another little dirt path and rode through the brush to the end of the point where the beach stretch as far as one could see.

Around the area

Another day we walked the long beach opposite the marina dock out to the point. This beach was covered in seaweed and such, few shells and surprisingly less plastic than usual.

Having stayed for a few days at this outpost was quite interesting in that it showed a bit of how life works here, or rather the structure of how life is set up for the locals. Everyone has a specific job. Take for instance the fellow who fills the jerry jugs with fuel. Every morning he arrives on the workers bus, he and he alone is allowed to cart the fuel jugs down the dock and fill them. To buy fuel – he is called for and he alone can only do that job. The marina staff do not do anything other than their own work, even though there are obviously many maintenance jobs waiting to be seen to, thats not their job. No they sit and play dominos, and that’s just the way it is here. We have noticed a complete lack of incentive, guessing that’s because living here you just have to accept your lot in life.

Faro Roncali lighthouse

Another day we rode past the little hotel for a further 2 miles to the lighthouse. There we saw the workers homes, and the guarda watching the shoreline. The lighthouse itself – Faro Roncali – was built in 1849, but is not open to visitors. We enjoyed the views from the cliff and headed back.

On the way back we stopped along the shore, walked out along the beach, John even jumped in to cool off and we stopped to look at some workers retrieving honey from bees. There were about a dozen or so people, like an extended family group. They had a large truck filled with barrels, which they were storing the honey in. Just off the road they had a fire burning, using the smoke to calm the bees, they were extracting the honey. The group was very friendly, offered us honey, but didn’t want any photos, which was a shame. Anyway they must be the Cuban honey gathers, as everyone has a job special to them only.

It was an enjoyable ride and again no traffic, few people, just birds and pigs – I saw the national hummingbird that’s the size of a bee.

A couple of nights before we left we had another excellent dinner. The waitress Boomboom convinced John he had to eat at the marina again. We had a wonderful lobster dinner.

Then the day before we were due to leave it was Gary’s 69th birthday and Vanoo arranged a small lunchtime “party, which was just excellent The marina made some lovely food and a chocolate cake. We all toasted Gary and then dung in to the food.

The weather is nearly perfect for us to round the Capo to the southern side of Cuba where we will head to Cayo Largo.

“People are opportunities. The gift is in the interaction and the connection with another person, whether it lasts forever or not.”  – Colleen Seifert

At the height of laughter, the universe is flung into a kaleidoscope of new possibilities.”

—  Jean Houston

 

 

 

PHOTOS LINK –>> 1st https://photos.app.goo.gl/CCac11M0117AzcT33  The village and Hemingway Marina

2nd https://photos.app.goo.gl/PEpm1jZUDld0W4LE2  Casablanca and Havana

Hemingway Marina and the local village

The day following our 1^st visit to Havana John and I rode around the marina. It is of an unusual design comprising of 4 long deep channels. The outside being just a rocky shore with a large seawall.

We rode to the very end of the marina where the entrance to Marina Hemingway is located.

There we saw a couple of sailboats that looked like they had recently been rescued from the rocks. Not sure if they are there as a warning of the entrance or for lack of any where to put them or any means of getting them there.

The sea is often rough due to the winds that predominately blow eastwards down the shore. It was a pleasant ride, but as it was a hot day we were dripping with sweat.

The afternoon we set off to walk around the village and check out a seafood restaurant that our taxi driver had recommended.

So out the marina, over the bridge and turning right we entered the village. We needed to ask the way to the tiny restaurant, finally finding it at the end of a narrow lane between homes and at the end where we had to ring the buzzer of a large door to be admitted to the restaurant.

We ordered some ceviche to share and sat on the porch over looking the small fishing port and boats. The ceviche was excellent, not sure what fish had been used but it was very good and a large portion. From there we wandered the tiny streets making our way to the shoreline. There we saw fishermen cleaning fish, the boats were made of Styrofoam strapped together in the shape of a boat.

Off of a large breakwater there were a few windsurfers. They must be excellent at their sport as the conditions were very windy and rough and without easy access to the shore it is not a coastline for amaturers.

Casablanca and 2nd visit to Havana

Our 2^nd visit to Havana was on a Saturday and the whole atmosphere was different but very enjoyable. This time the children were not in school and were playing on the streets, families were relaxing and congregating in the alleys, mothers were shopping and family groups were out for the day.

Once again we caught a taxi into Havana. This driver was speedy as in like a racing driver he even had us strap into our seatbelts in the back seats!

We alighted at Castillio del la Real Fuerza which we had previously visited on our last visit and made our way through the plazas and narrow lanes to the

Cross Bay ferry for Cassablanca.

Along the way we stopped at a small plaza where venders were selling old, old books and antiques. Most of the books were political in theme and many of the antiques were old currency, stamps, commemorative medals and such. It was really interesting almost like an out doors museum.

The Cross Bay ferry was small, ancient and quite crowded, there seemed to be many young folks heading to Cassablanca.

It was interesting looking at the buildings along the harbour for example the Sacra Catedral Ortodoxa Rusa – the Orthadox Russian cathedral next to the old port, quite sad to see the deterioration of the docks.

Upon reaching Casablanca we followed the crowd up the hill noting that most of them headed towards the gates of Castillio de los Tres Reyes del Morro aka El Morro.

Our first destination was the massive statue of Christ upon the hilltop – El Cristo de La Habana. It is made totally of marble and was erected just before the take over of Cuba by Castro. Our reason to visit was for the views of Havana across the waterway. The view was excellent and the statue really awesome in its size.

Our second destination was El Morro and again my reason to visit was for the view and to see the old fortifications.

We entered the huge gates and again noted all the folks heading the same way, thinking it must be some sort of pilgrimage or such. Inside the gates the walls rise to a great height around you, realizing they were built between 1589 – 1630 makes them even more impressive. How did they ever cut the huge stones and them haul them into place?

We followed along and up a rampart where there was a small opening to El Morro. Inside there was just a huge crowd of young people. Unfortunately I needed the banyo, well that proved to be a most unpleasant experience as the line was long, the smell very horrible and the conditions nasty.

We headed to the top of the ramparts and walked along enjoying the amazing view across to Havana.

The majority of the others were in the lower areas of the fortifications and it appeared to be some sort of fair, or festival for the young. Long story short we walked the ramparts, enjoyed the views and headed back to the Cross Bay ferry.

Havana again

Once back on the other shore we set off to explore areas of Havana we had not see previously.

“Ah…Havana, city of jarring paradoxes and unfathomable contradictions where seductive beauty sidles up to spectacular decay and revolutionary iconography is juxtaposed with sun, sea, sand, sex and a diluting slice of austere socialism. There’s fascinating history here, wrapped up in erudite museums and foresighted restoration projects, and tremendous music too, from gritty street rumba to kitschy cabaret.

But Havana’s greatest allure is its street theater, the raw snippets of everyday life that go on all around you: the mother in rollers and the baseball-playing schoolkids, the wandering troubadours and the cigar-smoking doctor trying to jumpstart his 1951 Plymouth. The attraction is the authenticity. Habaneros (the people of Havana) don’t just survive: they duck and dive, scheme and dream, create and debate, but most of all, they live – with a rare passion.” – Lonely Planet

Once again we were totally absorbed by watching life unfold around us in this amazing city.

Our starting area was Plaza Vieja – Old Havana with its restored porlicoed buildings and its cobbled streets we wandered.

We did enter the Convento de Santa Clara de Asis and admire the architecture and artwork. Plus at the Plaza de la San Fransisco we visited the Convento de San Fransisco de Asis which was a Franciscan friar missionary school built in 1739 where we had a marvelous view from the upper floors over the plaza.

From plaza to plaza we explored the streets and alleyways of Havana until we were exhausted and headed home in an old taxi of American heritage, from which we could see the road through holes on the floor driven by a father and son. Another thoroughly enjoyable day in Havana.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

How we pay attention to the present moment largely determines the character of our experience and, therefore, the quality of our lives. Sam Harris