A Roatan tour and a week in Cayos Conchinos

 

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Roatan tour 

I flew back to Roatan where John was awaiting my return. He had hired a car for a few days to enable us to get a few supplies and to be able to tour the island. We set off the following day towards the eastern end of the island.

The main roadway is for the most part paved but when you branch off for the smaller lanes they are all dirt, rocky and in some cases washed out.

We bumped our way east to just past Camp Bay Village where we encountered gates and a private sign. Assuming that was the end of the road we made our way westward stopping along the way at various settlements and beaches. 

Our main problem was that signs are practically non existent, so we had to just guess if the small turn offs were for certain places by looking at the gps on the phone.

I believe we visited Camp Bay village and beach, Paya Bay, Diamond Rock, Punta Gorda and Pollitily Bight. All of these settlements and beaches were very scenic, quiet and friendly.

We then headed westward to view the lighthouse on top of Difficulty Hill and drive back via Flowers Bay.

It was a lovely tour of Roatan.

Cayos Conchinos

A few days later we headed back to Cayos Conchinos. We had a lovely sail over, were relieved to see 2 sailboats leaving – which meant a mooring should be available – and our friends on First Light at anchor there. 

The Cayos Conchinos or Cochinos Cays are made up of two small islands – Cayo Menor and Cayo Grande, and 13 more small coral cays. They are situated 30 kilometers northeast of the northern shores of Honduras. They are reputed to be exquisite! 

“The two Hog Islands, the 13 tiny coral cays and the seas around them comprise a marine reserve – it’s illegal to anchor on the reef, and commercial fishing is prohibited. Consequently, the reefs are pristine and the fish abundant. Diving and snorkeling are excellent around the islands, with black coral reefs, wall diving, cave diving, seamounts and a plane wreck. The islands are also known for their unique pink boa constrictors and the strength of the local Garifuna culture.” – Lonely Planet

As we had previously purchased a month pass to the area we didn’t have to pay the parks folks when they arrived. They didn’t seem as friendly this time, and again told us the park regulations.

The next day we went in the dinghy to circuit the island adjacent to the anchorage – Cayo Menor. This is the isle where the Smithsonian has an institute situated to study the area.

-“Cayos Cochinos are one of the most important parts of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, and its environment and waters have been protected as an ecological marine reserve since 1994. There is a very rich flora and marine life that cover an area of almost five hundred square kilometers. Commercial fishing, as well as fish trapping, is forbidden within the marine park. However, local Garifuna inhabitants have permission to fish only with hand lines. In some specially designated areas qualified local Garifuna fishermen can also catch lobsters.”

 However they had allowed the TV Survivor series to set up camp and play their games on this isle. (Apparently there were 10 contestants left).

As we started to round the first rugged point we saw a lovely beach and spotted a “survivor” wading in the shallows while others lurked in the palm trees.

The island’s reefs looked lovely, the scenery was rugged and wild but it was windy so the seas were quite rough. We passed another Survivor camp area, where they looked to be restocking and then a palm thatched construction which was where they do their tribal councils.

The institute was at the other end of the island which we just saw from the distance on our way back.

Off to the Lighthouse

The next adventure was when we set off on the main island to find the trail to the lighthouse and along the ridge line. We had a general idea of where the trail started and so leaving the dinghy on the beach we walked towards the area where the water carriers went.

The water carriers are men who came daily to the area with many plastic bottles to fill with water from the well. They then load the water into their small canoes and paddle the full load out to the outer cays where they live with no water source. We had been told that the trail head was near the well. 

Upon arriving at the well we met one of the water carriers filling his many containers. John helped him carry some of the heavy jugs to the beach and then we set off. 

Well we looked and looked, followed all sorts of paths and did not find the trail head. Returning to the beach we met Bill and Bunny, who said they were visiting and that Bill knew where the path was as he had already been up to the lighthouse. 

So off we set again following Bill. Anyway long story short, Bill didn’t find the trail, so John set off ahead to bush-wack and find the trail. Bill set off on a slightly different route, I was really struggling on the steep, rocky, slippery slope that was covered in all kinds of foliage and goodness knows what else.

Bunny was sort of following me, but finding it very hard going too. In the end John said he found the trail, but we had lost him and each other and had to shout just to go in the direction of his voice. I finally made it to where John was and collapsed with my water bottle vowing to never do that again.

Bill finally emerged and John had to head off to find Bunny. She says he saved her life, she had slid backwards, done head plants into the earth and was done in, but with John’s help she made it to the trail. She also confessed to having a heart condition! We also found we had overshot the trail by 100s of feet, and had to back track to the lighthouse!

Finally we made it to the lighthouse, John and I climbed to the top. Now it’s not an ordinary lighthouse climb, it is just a cylinder shaped metal tube with enough room for an attached metal ladder to the top, where you climb out the hole at the top and down onto a rusty platform, then around the platform to another short ladder up to the final platform at the top.

The climb is really tiring as all you have are your arms clinging to the ladder and there’s no resting place, but the view from the top was well worth it. You can see all around the beautiful Cayos Conchinos. Now the lighthouse also sways so I took my shots and did not hang around up top. 

Once back on the path we took the trail heading to where Bill said they were staying, he assured us it was a wide and much easier way, so off we went….

We emerged just above a few of the small homes and followed Bill and Bunny to where they were staying. This was a beautiful home, which was apparently owned by a group of business/property investors. There we had a cold drink and said our good byes.

Wonderful snorkeling…

Most of the days we were in the Cayos Conchinos we snorkeled in different areas and once John dove.

The reef all around the Cayos Conchinos are spectacular.

The corals, fish, and sea life is plentiful and the water just crystal clear.

The outer cays

We went one morning to visit the outlying cays of which there are 13, but we only passed 7. We started with the one where the water carriers come from everyday. I believe it is called Chachahuate and is a Garfuna settlement whose inhabitants come from Nueva Armenia, Jutiapa. Some say they were exiled out there others say they choose to be there. Anyhow the Garfuna live in small thatched huts on the small sand cay with a few palm trees.

They are allowed to fish with hand lines but otherwise rely on what comes over in the supply boats.

The next cays we passed in the dinghy were small too, but most had trees, some had grass and homes which were fancy and I imagine owned by the wealthy. All in all the cays are lovely too.

We were invited to the home which Bill and Bunny were staying  for dinner. There we enjoyed a very nice dinner a few drinks and the company of the visitors.

The correct trail to Lighthouse

Practically our last adventure was to head back to the lighthouse via the route we took to get down. Then to find the path we “missed” the first time around. It was just a matter of the steep uphill to the ridge line, then along the same path which leads through some attractive forested slopes.

This time I actually saw lizards and hermit crabs, unfortunately we still never saw the famous Rosy Boa that is resident. 

At the lighthouse we didn’t climb just continued passed and followed the wide pathway down the steep forested slope to the beach.

We found that the path came out on the other side of the well from where we were looking, so we missed it from lack of scouting about.

It was a very pleasant hike, took just over an hour as opposed to our 4 hour thrashing about up the steep forested slopes the first time.

The week in the Cayos Conchinos went quickly, we both fully enjoyed ourselves and vowed to return someday.

“Your life is your story, and the adventure ahead of you is the journey to fulfill your own purpose and potential.” — Kerry Washington

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Roatan, Cayos Conchinos, Bermuda and Roatan again

 

PHOTO ALBUM—>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/1GqCKC41mkx5mTNGA

Leaving Guanaja:

Sailboat hits reef….

So leaving Guanaja we had a relatively good sail across to French Harbour/Cay on Roatan. Upon the way we were told that just the previous night at around midnight a sailboat had hit the reef.… its name was Fred Again. This was one of the boats that had been in Guanaja with us. They had arrived late afternoon and had been invited to join the group of us cruisers going to Mia Cassa Too for dinner.

John had gone down the path from Mia Cassa Too to show them the way up to the restaurant. The story the captain told that night was that the four with him were friends of his daughter who were helping him to sail up from Panama to Belize where he would need to be by the 11th February to meet up his daughter. At the time we thought it was a bit odd as the 11th was only a few days away. Our friend who has much experience in the Bay Islands offered the captain, Robert, information about the area, which he just shrugged off.

The next morning was a wet one with several showers. We saw the crew on Fred Again standing in the rain and washing, rinsing clothes and other items by which time it was close to noon. John took the dingy over to them to tell them where the office was located for immigration etc, to bid them farewell and ask what their plans were. They said they were checking in and then headed to Roatan. He really didn’t think they meant that day.

As said, we left Guanaja early the following morning and as we approached French Cay we heard over the net that Fred Again had sent off the evening previously and sailed right up on the reef off of French Cay and Fantasy Island Resort. We could then see on our AIS that they hit close to midnight doing 4.5 knots. We both couldn’t figure how that could happen as they were a good 1/2 mile from the entrance, plus nobody would attempt the entrance at night, so we speculated that maybe someone fell asleep at the helm? We saw Fred Again as we anchored in the anchorage, sure enough it was high and dry, it had obviously been driven up onto the reef. That afternoon they were busy salvaging their gear off Fred Again, but:

We watched as evening approached local boats anchored a short distance from Fred Again, we saw as dusk fell they crossed and climbed aboard using flashlights and proceeded to break in and steal from the boat. At the same time these locals were all over the protected reef probably also taking lobsters. And no we did not get involved…..

Cayos Conchinos

We left a few days later fully stocked for a week or so in Cayos Conchinos – Pig Isles. These cayos are all totally protected by the parks.

There are about a dozen cays that make up the chain, some quite small and only really sand spits. There is a research station there that is linked to the Smithsonian Institute and National Geographic on the island referred to as “small pig”. We enjoyed a lovely sail over and to our delight found that nobody else was there. We picked up one of the 4 mooring buoys, and just after we did the guard and parks arrived to take our parks fee. It is actually cheaper to pay for a month than by the day and I am glad we did, plus asked for a receipt. We had a lovely swim and enjoyed the sunset.

The next day was stunning! Hardly a cloud in the sky, sunny but with a lovely breeze, the perfect day to explore. We started out by circling the main island in our dinghy. In the bay where we were there was also a few homes, obviously owned by wealthier folks and staffed by a few locals we could see. There was also a small dive resort, that appeared to have few if any guests.

 

We circled the isle clockwise past absolutely beautiful bays, beaches and over stunning shallow reef. On the far side of the island we saw the small local village where the locals are allowed to catch enough fish to sustain themselves, but none to sell. The island really is exquisite, we noted a few bays we intended to return to to snorkel. 

That afternoon we returned to the bay around the corner where we had seen a few dive buoys. There we tied the dinghy and went snorkeling.

It was a wonderful snorkel, the corals plentiful, the fish numerous with schools of all different species, even fry in the shallows being chased and herded by garfish. The day was just perfect!

The day finished with a perfect sunset, life was good….

The next morning I was awakened by messages to call home…..my Dad had died just hours earlier. He was 94 so it was not unexpected. We up anchored, set off and had a rough, horrible passage back to French Harbour. My daughter in law, Katie, kindly arranged my travel for the next day. 

In the early morning we used our hired car and got to the airport for my flight to Belize on Tropic Air. (We actually arrived before the airport opened) This was just one of the small prop planes, seating about 12 at a squeeze there were 5 of us aboard. The flight was great as I could see the reefs and then the jungle below. I then flew out of Belize to Miami where I connected to Bermuda arriving just after 11:00pm. 

Bermuda was stressful to say the least, but in just over a week I was able to leave.

Meanwhile in French Harbour John had a really rough time too. He had high winds every night, blowing up to 46 knots one night, he was up late most nights on anchor watch. However it passed without any major incidents. 

Once I returned we resumed our life aboard…….

“Change is the essence of life.”—  Anatole France

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Beautiful Guanaja!

 

 

PHOTO LINKS:- Album Guanaja  Part 1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/efrubyz28RSPu6VC9

                                                 Part 2    https://photos.app.goo.gl/94QhUxrb6jHuMmJr9

Our visit to Guanaja two and a half years previously had been quite brief, but at that time we were intrigued by the island. They say Christopher Columbus “discovered” Isla Guanaja on July 30, 1502, on his fourth and final voyage of discovery, so legend says. Columbus was met by large dugout canoes carrying 25 Mayan Indians in each and was quickly welcomed ashore. He found excellent water and noted that he had, “never tasted water of better quality.” The island was so covered in pine trees that Columbus initially named the island Pine Island.

We had a lovely sail from Port Royal to Guanaja, arriving in the mid afternoon we found just 2 other sailboats there and they looked like permanent residents. We went ashore to Hans’s place which was ahead of us in the anchorage. He seemed friendly and granted permission to us to use his “dock” to leave our dinghy the next day.

The Blue Dot Trail

The following day we left the dinghy and set off to find the blue dot trail which apparently would lead us towards the top of the island, past the water dam and around in a circuit of about a 3 – 4 hour hike.

As we left from Hans’s place we were joined by a very cute little brown dog, who we later found out his name was Bobby.

This cute little fellow accompanied us for our entire adventure often taking off to chase what ever he spied along the way. Well to start we had to find the trail, this took some hunting and some asking of the few folks we saw on our way.

Finally we were off uphill, on the blue dot trail. It was a lovely, but steep and rugged uphill climb. At stages ropes were tied to help pull oneself up the steepest, slippery party, but the way was shaded and the views downward were wonderful. 

Once up the steep side we reached the dam. This is the dam for the main water supply to the island. Guanaja is an unusual island as it has natural water springs. The water bubbles and flows from springs in the highland and supplies the people with wonderful, natural, pure water.

Onward and upward we were basically walking the ridge line from one top to the next and the next. We had to really hunt for the blue dots as the trail was very over grown from not being over used.

I found that the grasses that were covering the trail were a kind of razor/sedge grass and soon my bare legs were covered in fine cuts. So what with all the no-see-um bites from lower down and the razor cuts my legs were quite a mess – note to self – wear long socks or pants in future.

John was often way ahead as I would be distracted by the views and taking pictures at every turn. It was our first good hike for a very long time, and just so enjoyable scrambling about on the slopes. 

The trees on Guanaja are very unusual for the region as they are pine, a special pine that grows on Guanaja.

The whole island used to be thickly forested until hurricane Mitch blew through in 1998 at reportedly 200mph for 2 hours, when quite a number of the trees were stripped bare and lost. However the slopes have more or less re-forested and the pines are very much there again. 

After 2 hours we were at what was or seemed to be the highest point around. We had a choice either to continue and have faith that the trail would be a circuit as we had been told, or to retrace our steps. I chose to continue following the trail so onward we went gambling we were on the homeward route. 

Sure enough, we soon found that the route did swing towards the correct direction and we started a steep, downward slope arriving at the dam from the other direction.

Once at the dam we dangled our feet in the cool water and rested for a while. Once we were at the bottom we found the whole venture had taken us just under 4 hours which was a good time seeing as we had quite often lost the trail and had to hunt for it. 

Off to the waterfalls, La Casscada

The next big venture was to the waterfalls. To get there we had to travel by dinghy towards Bonacca where there is a canal that cuts from one side of Guanaja to the other. This canal is quite deep and lined by mangroves. Once through the canal we travelled up the shoreline towards Michael Rock.

Past Michael Rock we proceeded to hunt for the correct landing spot. We actually ended up nearly at Mangrove Bight at the other end of Guanaja. So we back tracked slowly along the shoreline looking for an outlet from a river as where there are falls there has to be a river and a river has a mouth. We spotted the small river mouth and believe it or not a rare sign announcing La Casscada – waterfalls. 

Off along what we took for the path beside the river we headed towards the falls. It was a lovely riverside trail, slippery in places, not very well marked and often we had to cross to find a way forward.

I just waded as trying to keep my feet dry seemed silly. We did reach an area which I believe they call the lower falls, but there we were confronted by huge boulders to get around with a drop below onto other boulders.

There was a line attached to use, but we both decided that the risk of injury out weighed the necessity of reaching the big falls. Maybe if there were others with us we would have ventured on, but we were a long way from the boat or help. So we enjoyed the lower falls and the adventure and headed back. 

On our way in the dinghy along the shoreline we enjoyed the scenery and stopped off at an old dock near the Columbus monument to walk the shoreline for a stretch and a snack in the shade of a tree.

You need to be careful where you sit in the wilds of Guanaja as we found out – there are ticks. John had spotted one on the little dog the previous day and then we both found a few on ourselves. 

Along the canal to the Western end.

Another great venture was when we again travelled through the canal to the other side and explored along the shore line of the western end. 

We firstly locked the dinghy to a tree of the first beach of the western end. Here we spotted a pathway and a sign announcing that the area was a reserve. Off along the path we trod, first facing a very rugged way up a washed out hillside path.

Finally at the top we found beautiful views, but another sign saying that the way ahead was private property.

John really wanted to continue, but in the other direction up to a ridge line along the top of steep hillsides to the highest point we could see in the distance. I just felt that as my legs were so beaten up from the razor grass that I did not want to go. Plus the whole plan had been to explore the shoreline. So back to the dinghy we headed. 

The shoreline here is very rugged in places and just beautiful. The reefs looked to be excellent for snorkeling, the water just crystal clear and turquoise blue.

Once we were further along the  West End Bay we walked along the 2 mile beach enjoying the sunny day.

Afterwards we had a snack lunch and returned down the canal to Aeeshah. 

Savannah Bight?

One of the days we tried to get to Savannah Bight via a pathway we had been told ran along the shoreline. We managed to walk as far as a small farm and then the pathway was blocked by the farmyard and rubble.

So we doubled back to the peninsular, past some very nice homes and looked along the shore for an alternative route, asked a local and concluded there is no path to Savannah Bight. So we decided to go in the dinghy along the shore to the settlement.

The dinghy ride was very lumpy as we were going into the wind, but after about half an hour we were there. And what was there? Not much, mainly fishing boats and large supply boats which were in the process of docking on the shoreline.

We decided to just cruise around and leave, there was just nowhere to land the dinghy anyway.

We cruised back along the shoreline enjoying the scenery.

Mia Cassa Too:

                         is a restaurant on the hill above the bay where the anchorage is located.

This restaurant serves the most delicious food and has wonderful views over the anchorage. We visited twice and both times had the Lion fish.

The view form there in the evening is lovely too, plus they have a hummingbird feeder. Unfortunately the hummingbirds proved to be quite camera shy.

Our second visit we were in the company of a number of other cruisers. 5 of which were off a boat that had just arrived. They left the following night and wrecked the boat on the reefs off French Cay…….but thats a story for the next blog to follow…….

Bonacca

Supply shopping is always an adventure because you have to take the dinghy across the anchorage to the town/island of Bonacca.

This is one of the strangest islands of all, most of the population live on it and it is a maze of buildings, sometimes compared to Venice.

There are no streets, and no cars or scooters, even bicycles are prohibited. Everyone walks along sidewalks, pathways down narrow alleyways. Many of the homes and businesses are on stilts out over the water some being three stories high. Just about everything you might need can be found in Bonacca if you are willing to look or ask. The locals all speak English, so it is easy to interact.

 Now why would the majority of the population live on this small island while there is a huge main island? Well, in days gone by the locals found that the no-see-ums, the biting bugs were just too vicious and plentiful on the main island.

And so they mainly inhabited the little sister island. And if you ever experience the bites of the no-see-ums that are on the main island you would agree.

Walking around Bonacca is like a test of directional navigation, it is not large, but set out like a winding maze of alleyways and water ways through and around the buildings. Supply boat day is the day to shop and the island is busy with the men using carts to deliver the goods and shoppers getting supplies while they last. 

Earthquake

One morning I arose around 6:30 or so, went into the head, just sat on the toilet when….. The whole boat sounded like it was hit by something. There was a rumbling sound and a sensation of a shaking. I went as fast as possible to the cockpit to see what the heck had happened …… there was nothing there. I was really puzzled, what had happened?

A while later I heard from a fellow cruiser that they had felt it and thought it was an earthquake. Sure enough when John awake and looked online he found it was a quake, not far from us, under the sea.

 Pelican Walk

Our last venture was to walk the shoreline from the anchorage to the other small settlement at Pelican Walk. This was a really fun walk.

We started following small pathways along the shoreline, past homes and abandoned buildings, sometimes even through a property. The pathway then climbed up at slope and continued along a shelf of a steep hillside above the water, one slip and on the rocks below you’d find yourself. 

Once down the path we were at the beginning of the settlement. Along Pelican walk we passed homes on the seaward side standing on stilts, guessing to avoid the bugs.

On the landward side we saw children and youths in uniform having left a school on the hillside.

We stopped to chat to folks and continued to what we think was the end as we could not continue any further without passing through gates.

On the way back we stopped along the pathway amongst some mangroves to chat to a fellow. Within all of 2 minutes we were slaughtered by the no-see-ums. 

Guanaja really is a beautiful, unspoiled treasure which I would happily visit again.

A Guanaja sunset

Go back? He thought. No, good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go! – JRR Tolkien

Like all explorers, we are drawn to discover what’s  waiting  out there without knowing yet if we have the courage to face it. – Pema Chodron

 

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A quick West End trip and visiting the Port Royal area

 

PHOTO ALBUM—>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/ds5NAzBHHvwyyVJG9

We arranged for us to go back to West End to meet up with Carol and Derick for a few days of snorkeling and such.

So off we left from Jonesville Bight using a strong westerly wind for a very swift sail through rough seas to West Bay. As it turned out Derick and Carol never ventured out that day as it was so rough and windy, but arrived the following day in nearly equally windy easterly winds.

West End

After we arrived we enjoyed a swim in the bay that was protected by the reef. However with the wind blowing into the bay we had some real rocking and rolling through the night. 

Another big reason for getting to West Bay was to get cash, groceries and laundry done. So first off we dropped off the laundry then we got a taxi to Elden’s to do a restocking. With chores out of the way we had a few fun days with Derick and Carol. We enjoyed a lovely lunch at a local restaurant and an evening together on Aeeshah catching up with news of mutual friends.

Walking to West End Bay

Off we set in the morning to walk the entire beach and waterside from West End “town” to the West Bay at the very end.

It is shady in the morning as it faces west and the scenery is lovely in the morning light. Plus the fun parts are scrambling over the rocks and trying to avoid getting wet feet. Past resorts some shuttered, some very modern all very well maintained with raked beaches. About two thirds of the way there you find a bridge that goes over a private boat canal. As the bridge is quite tall it affords quite a good view of the bay.

After the bridge you cut through various smallest  resorts along a small broad walk and then there you are at West Bay the hub of tourism.

This beach is just dedicated to making the average cruise ship passenger happy. It is enjoyable strolling along looking at everything on offer.

Derick was checking out the fly fishing opportunities, stopping every so often to watch the fish, or so he said. We had a grand time. 

Snorkeling was another fun afternoon. The reefs there are just lovely and the water very clear. Unfortunately I forgot to load my card in my go-pro so no photos that time

Off to Port Royal area

At the Eastern end of Roatan are a couple of very large bays: Old Port Royal and Port Royal. After them there are a few islands too, but we were bound for the bays. Our choice of anchorage was actually a mooring buoy off of Mango Creek Resort.

We did as usual and ran our own check to make sure it was secure and then doubled up with lines to the chain too. The other bonus of being off the resort and paying for a mooring is security. There is security both day and night. We could tell they checked us at night by the light that would regularly sweep across the boat. In such a lonely area this is very comforting.

This lovely resort is only accessible by water and when we arrived it was “shut” as the owners were away. However the friendly staff let us wander around and stretch our legs.

The large, manicured grounds were enjoyable to wander around, plus there were trails leading up into the highlands above – next time we will walk them. 

Dinghy trips around the bays

We spent each day we were in the anchorage traveling by dinghy to the far reaches of each bay. In the bay we were in we travelled to the end of Lime Cay Bight

where we found a trail at Conch Cay Point.

Following this we walked a distance along the shoreline – never saw another person, however there were some fancy homes looking down on us. 

Around Jenning’s Point and into Port Royal

we travelled the shoreline, again there were a few homes, some derelict, some for sale and a couple seemed occupied, but nobody about. The majority of the slopes were forested and we had planned to find a trail or 2, but everywhere looked very overgrown and bush hacking was not for us.

At Fort Cay where the old British fort is located we were unable to go ashore as it was posted private. 

The Cow and Calf islands are lovely rugged outposts where the water was crystal clear.

From Port Royal again in the dinghy we were able to pass through a canal into Old Port Royal.

This again is a massive bay however with even fewer signs of habitation.

There was a dredger that looked to be stored at the end of the bay and a very interesting looking wreck on the reefs.

A number of water taxis were crossing the bay taking folks to the next canal that actually leads to the very end of the island, the other side and the next island. We wanted to explore it , but felt it was time to move on. So we were off again ….

The flower is aware of the fact that it contains everything within it, the whole cosmos, and it does not try to become something else. – Thich Nhat Hanh

Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius

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Traveling around Roatan’s Bights

 

PHOTO Albums here —->>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pps3e6SCidiDqWpu7

 

French Cay area 1st

Aeeshah returned to French Cay area in the second week of January to meet friends Derick and Carol on Latitude who had sailed from the Rio. It was also about time we did some boat chores, stocking up and such. Derick and Carol arrived with no problems despite the higher winds and seas. We had a very nice evening aboard Latitude catching up.

Old French Harbour

John and I dinghied into Old French Harbour in search of a fuel dock. We also toured the Harbour while there. We both really like the traditional fishing boats of which Roatan seemed to have many, new and old.

The homes in Old French Harbor and the ones around the back area where we go to get to the grocery store are also quite a sight. On stilts over the water, built of wood and tin sheeting they often look unsafe lying at angles that suggest they are in need of greater support.

Many are gaily painted but surrounded by trash and grunge in the yards or under the wooden stilts they sit on. People sweep it off their porches, old cars, toys, ships just lay where they were last left rusting and decaying.

Anyway the rustic homes and fishing boats derrick and new make for interesting sights and photos as we pass by.

Snorkeling off Little French Cay

We went on the dinghy to the off reef sideoutside of Little French Cay where we tied to mooring buoys and went snorkeling. To say the reef is really, very, beautiful, is an understatement.

The corals are numerous and healthy, the fish are abundant with a wide variety of sizes and species. The water is very clear with great visibility. The reefs slants from the shore downward dropping off on a wall of several hundred feet not far from shore so the temperatures of the currents vary. 

We both enjoyed the different snorkels and Derick came along on one too. After which we stopped off shore from the tiger’s cages to visit with them. On Little French Cay they have a number of exotic animals, some of which are tigers. They look to be in good health, but must be bored in their empty cages.

In French Harbour 

we were able to take the shopping bus to Eldens, plus get our laundry done, then it was time to move on………..

Jonesville Bight 

We set off for new adventures, first stop being Jonesville Bight, just up the coast, bay that we were told was a popular destination with cruisers. A bight is an old English term for a long bay – as in wide at entrance and going in quite a distance.

It was just an hour away, we negotiated the entrance, between the reefs and anchored up on the northern side off Dry Point. In the afternoon we had a dinghy ride around the bay looking at the various areas and then stopped at the small marina/resort/bar across the bay called Trico. 

Trico Marina

This turned out to be a lovely place, quite new with guest accommodation, docking, a bar and restaurant plus excellent wifi. We met the folks running it, had a few drinks and information about the area.

Hiking around Jonesville Bight and Bodden Bight

For our first day we set off from Trico’s Dock through the property to the road for a good long hike. The roadway wound steadily uphill past areas where the foliage was being cleared for development.

The homes that had been built were lovely with brilliant views downhill looking out towards the sea. We really enjoyed the walk with the views changing to forested slopes and rugged farmland all steeply sloping downward.

We reached the main road and walked half a mile in both directions to gain views of the other shore. Most of the walk was somewhat shaded by the large trees that grew along the roadway. 

Dinghy ride To Hog Pen Bight and further

In the afternoon we set off in the dinghy to explore the bay’s/bights eastwards along the coast. We found that there were canals connecting the bay’s so you are able to stay inside the reef for an easier, less rough passage.

We passed inside of Jonesville Cay to the next bight Hog Pen Bight where there were homes, a few bars and small tiendas. The bight itself was quite similar to Jonesville with forested slopes and the structures mainly along the shoreline.

From Hog Pen Bight we followed another Chanel passed Carter Point on the inside and shallow reefs on the outside. This was a very scenic area with a few small resorts. 

Along further we passed under a small bridge, along a narrow stretch which was lined with homes, some of which were literally over the water and just held up with wooded posts.

The homes are again wooden gaily painted, very rustic, most having laundry hanging underneath along with trash. We were wondering about the waste water and sewage when suddenly someone must have flushed, or emptied the drain as a large amount of brown dirty waste water was expelled from under the home to the shallows below.

The end of the channel was Oak Ridge Harbour. Oak Ridge is one of the few towns in Roatan. It is the center for the shrimp boats and trade. There were many shrimp boats docked, both the old and the new. We had a quick look around the Harbour and then headed back.

 

Oak Ridge for groceries?

On another day we ventured back to Oak Ridge and went grocery shopping.

Leaving the dinghy at the water taxi stop we literally visited every tienda/grocery store. Yes, we did find most of what we needed, and it was very pleasant wandering around.

The town is mainly situated just along the shoreline, very rustic, the streets are kept clean of trash, and the locals are very friendly and helpful.

Dinghy to Calabash Bight 

On yet another venture we passed through Oak Ridge and along a canal to Fiddlers Bight and then Calabash Bight. Fiddler’s Bight was smaller bight with mainly fishing and shrimp boats while Calabash Bight was huge with a few homes and a small marina.

There were a few cruising boats there which looked like the owners had left them. The slopes are all steep and forested, a good area for a boat to shelter from bad weather.

Jonesville village walk

Our second walk was along the Jonesville village shoreline along a lane with rustic homes, tiny tiendas, and other gaily painted wooden buildings.

We soon left the village and were climbing the roadway past the forested slopes. This road offered less in the way of views other than the forested slopes and large grassy slopes for the cattle. Upon meeting the main road we had a look around and then headed back. It was a very quiet area and we were warned that there had been robberies.

Jonesville Point walk

This day we walked down the hill to the bay below the Trico marina. The lane heads downhill past homes and surprisingly a cemetery where the graves were all brightly decorated with plastic flowers.

Along further we crossed a bridge and discovered that the canal under the bridge led towards the mangroves and there was a local longboat touring with tourists. This of course gave us the idea of doing our own tour.

Past the bridge we walked following the rough road along the very pretty shoreside. We crossed another bridge followed the way up a very steep hill and then the track just petered out.

On the way back as we passed a construction site the workers called us over for fresh coconut. They topped the coconut so we could drink the water, which was delicious and then when we finished our nuts he chopped them in half, fashioned a coconut spoon so we could eat the white meat. It really was a yummy treat!

The canal to Carrib Point

Our final dinghy exploration was along the amazing canal that has been created between Jonesville Point and Carib Point Bight.

It leads you down a mangrove corridor passed a few homes and empties you into a mangrove lagoon.

From there you join another mangrove corridor which ends at an area the locals call the Blue Lagoon or Blue Hole.

It is an area where the sea filters over the reef and the bottom is sandy thus the water is a lovely shade of turquoise blue. Beyond there we found Carrib Point Bight. This is another large bight/bay. There we found expensive looking homes on one side while the other is just forested. 

 

We spent nearly a week in this area of Roatan and had a lovely time, met some more cruisers on other cruising boats, many very helpful, friendly locals and had some excellent walks plus we were safe through a strong northerly wind that blasted in for a few days of disturbed weather.

      

Why not live each day as if it were the first —> All Raw Astonishment!  – Linda Pastan

           

 

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Good bye Belize hello Roatan

 

PHOTO ALBUM LINK HERE–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xovLNA2TvRS1pk5r8

AND Underwater photos–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/6urmdbRr9rc1SjGz5

So what have we been doing during December? After Ethan left we waited for a nice high tide to get us over Porto Stuck the only possible channel south on the inside of the reefs and cays.

We sailed successfully passing over the shallows with the lowest water under the keel being approximately 2 inches and arrived at an anchorage in the Drowned cays. Louise and Gary also came with us and there we sheltered for a few days from a northener that blasted down. It gave us a chance to catch up with getting the boat back to travel mode and cleaning some locker space. 

We then set off for Placencia, stopping over night at Blue Ground Range where it is fairly sheltered from the winds.

Once in Placencia we again waited for another north wind to blow through and then checked out of Belize. We left Placencia and motor-sailed to Ranguna where we headed off to Utila.

Utila, Honduras

Our destination was Utila, Honduras which we reached after a very calm overnight motor sail and a lovely sunset and a brilliant sunrise just off Utila.

In Utila we checked into Honduras and had a walk around reacquainting our selves with the island. It had been about two and a half years since we had last visited Utila, but little had changed.

The streets are exactly the same, the same stores, same bakery, etc…. It is quite a charming islands and very much the backpacker diver destination. 

Helping Island Girl

That 1st evening while chilling in the cockpit with our cocktails we heard a commotion over the radio. Upon recognizing the voices and boat names we realized that there was a boat, Island Girl off shore in difficulty. We responded along with another boat in the anchorage, Haycon. John in our dingy and Brit and Sandy in their dingy set off in the dark off shore, in rough seas to assist. I stayed and monitored the radio while contacting a fellow ashore who raised some local help too. 

John told me that when they arrived at Island Girl she was floundering in rough seas, with no engine and a damaged inner foresail Bert the skipper was exhausted after struggling for many hours and was in real need of help. He and his wife Dorothy had left the Rio Dulce the previous day after crossing the bar. During the passage they had lost the engine, could not restart it and had encountered head winds. With little sleep, heavy seas, no engine and a damaged rig they were in real difficulty.

So Halcyon – Brit and Sandy, plus John boarded Island Girl and set about sailing her with the reefed jib into the entrance between the reefs and to the anchorage. Meanwhile I did manage to rouse some help from the land, a man called Richard heard the call and arranged for a friend to take his boat to the entrance between the reefs. As it turned out the vessel was not needed as John and Brit sailed it right in and dropped anchor with little difficulty. Everyone had just arrived from a day/ overnight passages and so by the time the rescue was over and some dinner was had our beds were just so welcoming.

We had planned to set off for Roatan the next morning, but decided to stay and see if John could do some sort of fix on Island Girls engine. We had a pleasant morning walk along Utilas Main Street this time towards the lagoon and then in the afternoon John set to on the engine.

What he found was what he expected, the fuel tank was full of gunk, that had grown while the boat had been laid up in the Rio Dulce. The seas being rough had stirred up the gunk which had vowel led the fuel which had bunked up the filters and clogged up the system. He cleaned the filters and ran the engine, but warned Bert that he needed to get the fuel changed and the tanks cleaned. Everyone was mighty relieved especially Bert and Dorothy as they had feared their engine was shot. 

Roatan

Off to Roatan we sailed on the 21st …. After a fast passage we arrived and entered French Harbour – the anchorage off of French Cay. There we found other cruisers boats including Halcyon. 

The few days before Christmas we spent visiting the wonderful grocery store- Eldons, where we could buy just about all the supplies we needed and hadn’t had in quite a while.

We explored in the dinghy, had a few walks around Fantasy Island and to the various nearby shops.

Plus we had a lovely Christmas Eve evening aboard Haycon along with other cruisers. 

Christmas Day

Christmas Day was another day of excellent weather. We had arranged with Sandie, Pam and Lynne to visit the iguana sanctuary. This was established years before when the iguana was threatened by the locals hunting them as food….I personally can not imagine being desperate enough to eat iguana meat.

Anyway a gentleman had rescued several species of iguana including the very rare mangrove iguana. Thus the iguana reserve.

We visited from their dock and it was free. We took all our vegetable and fruit scraps to feed them. Arriving at 8:30 meant that we arrived before the visitors and were free to roam around, in fact we were welcomed.

The iguanas were quite incredible, just all sizes and kinds and dozens wanting our scraps. Apparently there are 3,000 of them now. They do breed them and so the real bay ones are kept in a cage till they are safe to roam. We really enjoyed ourselves and it was a unique Christmas morning.

We enjoyed a quiet day and had a lovely Christmas get together at Fantasy Island marina tiki hut.

There we quite a few of us and everyone contributed several dishes to create a wonderful lunch.

After lunch John and I had a walk around the resort and a relaxing evening on Aeeshah. 

West End

We headed to the West End – an area in Roatan famous for its beaches, snorkeling and diving.

The sail was an easy and smooth along the shoreline, arriving in 2 hours, through the cut in the reefs, we went into the anchorage and found that there were no mooring buoys so we tried to anchor.

After 8 attempts we just dropped the anchor, knowing it was temporary and decided to attach our own lines to the mooring screws. We were told by Halcyon that the parks had been in the middle of renewing the buoys, the screws were in place in the few sand patches, marked by plastic bottles, so we attached our own lines, took Aeeshah and tied her up and finally we were secure – one and a half hours later! However it is a wonderful anchorage so the fuss was well worth it.

While in the West End we had a fabulous time. We snorkeled, had a few dives,

walks everyday around the area and along the shoreline to the very end.

Again we got together with Haycon for drinks on their catamaran, and drinks on ours, plus a Sunday afternoon playing Mexican Train dominoes.

The reefs are beautiful so the snorkeling and diving is excellent and just so easy. There are parks buoys one can tie the dinghy to and dive or snorkel from, the fish are plentiful, the corals numourous plus there were giant sponges- we both had a wonderful time. And of course the sunsets were amazing nearly every night we were there. 

We are the only ones who get to decide what our time and energy and our talents go to. – America Ferrera

There are no wrong turns only unexpectant paths. – Mark Nepo

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Ethan visits us

 

PHOTO ALBUM :—->>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/FTkCrSXUmVKM9uJZA

Ethan arrives:

Ethan our 19 year old Grandson, arrived when when we were on our last day of our Antigua adventure. We met him in Guatemala City and then travelled back to Antigua where he was surprised by how much he remembered of the old town.

Back to the Rio

Ethan travelled back to the Rio with all of us on the Litugua bus. The ride was painless, no traffic jambs, no accidents, no bridges down, just a normal boring ride. 

For the first few weeks we were quite busy getting the last few projects finished and preparing to leave the Rio.

Cabinets in our cabin and rigging

I had wanted cabinets in our cabin to put our personal items and clothing away out of sight. Finally we had found a fellow Carlos, and he arrived the day after we returned to take final details. Carlos actually spent most of that day measuring, cutting, sanding fitting the cabinets and then he took the pieces away to varnish and perfect. He was back later in the week with the finished products and took the morning to install them. Now, they are exactly what I wanted, maybe not quite the perfect stain/varnish, but they are structurally perfect. Finally I was able to stow all our clothes, electronics, bits and pieces securely away in the cabin. 

John had ordered a new back stay for our rigging. He had Ethan help him replace the old with the new. The back stay had been troubling him for a while, he was suspicious that perhaps it was compromised and sure enough when he looked at the old one of the strands of wire had broken. John and Ethan did a great job replacing the back stay.

Ethan spent some time at the pool too. So he kept busy with helping and relaxing. And popping into Fronteras with us.

John’s cataract surgery/appointment

John and Ethan went to Morales to get John’s cataract surgery/appointment. They left at 6:00 got the 7:00am collectivo and arrived for the 7:30 operation. John did not want to spend any nights there so after the operation they returned. The eye operation was once again a success, so John now has 2 perfect bionic eyes. That second eye had also just about become blinded by the cataract growth so again he finds the change in his sight just amazing. 

Walks 

We managed to squeeze in a few early morning walks. And these times we saw the water buffalo, plus they were harvesting the palm oil crop.

We had a week of tremendous rains, one night getting 8 inches! It was supposed to be the dry season, but someone hadn’t told the weather systems. The Rio can get a bit tiresome with so much rain as mold starts to grow as does the green algae.

For us it was time to leave, the full moon was just a few days away. We finished up our few unfinished deeds and needs and said goodbye – “see you soon” to our friends and left Catamaran on November 22nd.

Chico was not as concerned as I thought he would be. He had been wandering free on the island for months, everyone spoiling and fussing him and being able to be independent. All he did was a few meows of protest and when we anchored up at Texas Bay he walked around and around the deck looking for a way off the damn boat.

After leaving Catamaran we headed down river and across El Golfete to Texas Bay.

The previous week, as said, had been rainy and this was the 1st day with a decent forecast and so the sun was peeking out from behind the clouds. At Texas Bay we found there weren’t as many boats as we had thought. We anchored and then after lunch set off to dinghy around the mangroves.

Dinghy riding through the mangroves

There are numerous channels that lead to large enclosed lake type areas, there are water lilies, with birds running on their surfaces, vines hanging from the trees, spider lilies, massive mangroves, dense foliage and of course numerous birds calling, soaring, roosting and watching from above.

These waterways are just lovely to explore. We all exclaimed at the reflections, the air was still with no breeze and so the shores were perfectly mirrored in the water making for a total abstract appearance.

We never did go to Texas Mikes’ for Thanksgiving, for one thing they ate at 3:00pm and for the other my guts had been unsettled for a few days.

Checking out of Guatemala

Up at 5:30 the next day and off for Livingston we were.

Down the gorge of the river with its steep steep sides of dense foliage with early morning mist arising, past fishermen in dugouts casting their early morning nets or pulling the ones previously set. The river is always a treat to travel, just stunning.

Poor Ethan now had the bad stomach so he missed the down river gorge trip. In Livingston we anchored up and set off ashore to check out. Paperwork wasn’t as ready as promised apparently bad communication between Raul and his nephew was to blame. Anyway, we checked out, got back to the boat, hauled anchor and headed to the bar.

Crossing the bar:

This is always a tense time, one has to time ones crossing to coincide with the moon’s highest high tide. We had the 8:45 November full moon tide of 1.5 feet which was the best it had to offer. We had waypoints from friends that had crossed 6 weeks previously and we followed the course very carefully. The lowest we had was 00.00 under the boat, we did slow by a knot, but we must have slid over the sludge as we made it across.

Mangrove Cays and Frenchman’s Cay  

We headed towards Belize as the wind was blowing westerly Tres Puntas would not offer shelter. Our first destination Frenchman’s Cay turned out to also not be as sheltered as we had hoped so we went into Mangrove Cays and found a very sheltered anchorage. We were more or less protected from all sides should the weather come up. Ethan really felt quite sick and my intestines were still protesting, John decided that the water must be to blame. So he assembled the water maker, dumped all of what water we had and made fresh. By the next day we were both feeling much better.

Some exploring….

Again the next day we made water and then set off to see what we could see. We dinghied through the mangrove cays to Frenchman’s Cay where we landed the dinghy on the shallow beach.

The story of this cay is that an American had a house and a few animals on it. Living there for some years like Robinson Crusoe…… We walked the beach and found lots of sand fleas, heading up into the bushes was a small path we followed finding boggy mangrove areas, plenty of coconut trees, hermit crabs and more biting bugs.

We did not hang around, I cannot imagine living among those no- see- ums, mosquitoes, midges and sand fleas. We took the dingy around the island and crossed back to the boat, later having another short dinghy ride and then a swim.

Placencia

The next stop was Placencia, leaving Mangrove Cays at 9:30 or so we arrived in Placencia at just after 3:30 on the Sunday afternoon of November 26th. We stayed on Aeeshah until dusk and then went in the dinghy to Yolli’s Bar to use wifi and have a drink. There were several locals that we had previously met still there propping up the bar. It was then in to the neighboring Paradise Hotel for dinner. 

Checking into Belize

John went over to the dock master in the morning to start the process of checking us into Belize. After he returned we went ashore and walked to the Hoiky Pokey ferry which we caught to get to Independence, where we got a taxi to customs, immigration and health where we got our papers stamped and sorted.

Back at Placencia we went for an excellent lunch at Rick’s Cafe, the food was the best in a long time. We finished the day by getting our wifi, a load of groceries and plenty of fresh fruit and veg and finally a great swim off the boat.

Around Placencia

Tuesday dawned a lovely day. We went ashore after breakfast to walk and explore the town with Ethan. Placencia has an attractive shoreline and it is always pleasant to walk. There are always many crafts for sale, interesting buildings and people.

After a drink at the Tipsy Tuna, our favorite bar on the shoreline, we walked to the main road, stopping in shops for the last few items we would need for our trip. 

When we returned to Aeeshah we could see large clouds forming and approaching, sure enough the rain arrived turning the day into a cloudy, rainy late afternoon and evening.

Ranguna Cay

Off to Ranguna Cay in the morning leaving around 10:00am we arrived in the early afternoon. The wind increased and the sea got rougher on our way, sure enough windy rough weather was approaching. There we picked up a mooring buoy and secured for the night.

Then it was off for a snorkel despite the rough conditions we headed over to the reef to have a look.

Due to the rough waters the visibility over the shallows was very poor, however we did see a few sharks, loads of conchs, rays, and schools of jacks, so we were pleased we made the effort to go. The weather deteriorated until the wind was blowing up to and above 30ks, right through the night it howled, I was soooo very glad we were secured on a mooring.

Blue Ground Range and South Water Cay

The next day all was calm and off we headed to Blue Ground Range where we spent a peaceful night. The following day we arrived at South Water Cay early in the morning. This is a wonderful cay situated right on the edge of the reef and so we were off to snorkel for the morning. 

Off to snorkel

SouthWater Cay sits right on the barrier reef. It is a very beautiful cay covered in palm trees and with a few colourful buildings. We had visited here last in May. This time snorkeling at South Water was not quite as impressive, maybe because of the time of year but there were fewer schools of fish.

However I really enjoyed the corals on the reef and Ethan and John enjoyed going out to the deep blue reefs. That afternoon we again snorkeled, this time off of Carrie Cay across the cut. There we saw some large rays and more spectacular corals.

Long Cay

And then it was off to Long Cay. And again we saw dolphins swimming along side us as we sailed and motored. Plus we managed to catch a small tunny for Chico, it actually kept him with fresh fish for 5 days. 

Belize is full of wildlife! Long Cay was more of a convenient secure anchoring spot for the night than anything else, however we decided to dingy around and see what we could spy. Well the cay is 2 and 1/2 miles long and for some reason we went past a fishing camp, through a cut to the outside, and started up the rough, shallow outside shore and never stopped.

We just kept thinking that the next turn would be the “end of the cay”. However we did get to see a large group of manatees, Ethan was impressed with their size. Plus we saw all the lagoon entrances, many birds and a second fisherman’s camp. After an hours ride we had circumnavigated the whole of the cay.

Cay Caulker

The next morning was another early start this time for Cay Caulker, our final destination with Ethan. We headed out of the main channel into the deep blue, reason being to avoid Porto Stuck, the notorious shallows on the inside track.

Plus on the outside we could thrall and perhaps catch some Mai Mai or tuna, however we had strikes and near misses but not a fish was hooked that day. However the sail was brilliant, doing 8 knots at times we made excellent time. It was a bit hairy surfing over the reef and through a narrow cut back to inside the reef, but all went well and we were in Cay Caulker just after 2:00.

Once we arrived and anchored up we headed ashore to stretch our legs, have a look around, pick up a few supplies and of course…..to get the best ever Chinese dinner. We go to Yummy’s on the Main Street, the food is always freshly made and I love their Sweet and Sour Chicken. Again we were remembered and received a warm welcome. 

Ethan’s first day in Cay Caulker we walked about and showed him a good bit of the island. It really is a mini paradise especially for the young and adventurous backpackers. When he saw the tiny airport he suggested he fly to Belize City for his return. It’s easier and nearly the same price as the ferry and taxi, plus a heck of a lot quicker and nicer. So into the tiny office we went and booked his flight.We arranged for him to do the Shark Ray trip, the following day. This is actually a trip that takes you to numerous sites, provides food, drink and rum swizzles at the end. 

The next morning we said “see you later” to Ethan and off he went, while John and I did a long walk around the southern end of the cay. We then spent the day doing various chores, when low and behold our friends, Louise and Gary arrived on their catamaran in the anchorage. Later in the afternoon they headed ashore with us to look around and to meet Ethan from his tour. We had a very pleasant happy hour at a beach bar and were in place to meet Ethan’s boat. Ethan reported that he had a wonderful day! And saw loads of large sharks and rays.

Ambergris Cay

Louise and Gary joined us the next day as we went on the ferry to Ambergris Cay to rent a golf cart and tour the cay.

We all squeezed onto the golf cart and set off towards the northern end which is all parkland and reputed to be full of birds. The “road” turned from tarmac to sand and rock once we were a few miles out of the town so it became quite a bumpy ride. Along the shoreline for most of the way there were empty resorts either being built, or had been built which to me is very odd. Who would want to stay way out there with nothing around? Still further we found the road ran just behind the beach. 

Unfortunately for Belize they have had a massive amount of sargassum seaweed end up on their shores, nobody seemed to know why this has happened this year, but there it lies. The seaweed is lying in mounds and rotting on all of the ocean facing beaches and it reeks, so what would have been lovely white beaches are now piles of rotting weed with trash mixed in.

This road ran along the top of what would have been a lovely beach and then we got to a point, next to yet another building site and it just disappeared! No more road, so we couldn’t get to the parkland to possibly walk a trail.

Secret Beach

Back we headed, however we branched off on what was another road/track that headed across island towards what was sign posted “Secret Beach”, it sounded intriguing. The track took us to the inside – western side of Ambergris. There we found a very touristy set up alongside a constructed beach area, obviously this was the answer to the seaweed if you were looking for a beach to cook on or swim from. We had a stroll around, checked the expensive prices, climbed back into our cart and headed back to town for lunch. 

There we found a nice beach front bar/ restaurant and had great fish lunches, all except Ethan., he had beef quesadillas. After lunch we had a drive passed the airport, stopped at a grocery store, returned our cart, bought a new battery. From a hardware store and headed back on the ferry. It was a pleasant day even with Ambergris being somewhat boring and it ended with a spectacular sunset!

Ethan leaves us

The following morning we were up early and headed to the airport for Ethan’s tiny plane to Belize city. It was sad to see him go, but we are sure he will return again.

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Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Day of the Dead and the Giant Kite Festival

 

PHOTO LINKS BELOW:-

1st, Visiting Antigua with friends

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5646D8ukDeJY1zae6  

2nd, Lake Atitlan, Panajachel, San Juan La Laguna and Santiago Atitlan

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VsBucmTzLmT3xPF87

3rd, Feria del Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite and All Saint’s Day religious rites and procession.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TtnKa2BTCAogBHeG8

Visiting Antigua with friends

Along with our friends Pam and Don we agreed to head to Antigua for an adventure. Pam and Don’s friends Tamera and Scott made all the arrangements for a group trip. Tamera had worked as a travel agent and was able to make the bookings, plus Scott speaks great Spanish so could communicate well with the people involved, so we were all set up. Davinia also joined our group, and on October 28th we all set off from Backpackers Hostel aboard our private mini bus to Antigua. 

The journey was uneventful, just a stop for lunch and so we arrived at our home for a week, “Posada La Revolution” at around 3:00pm.

The place we called home for a week was a 4 bedroom home that is let as an AirB&B.

I just loved its decor. Being owned apparently by a fellow with Cuban connections the house was full of Cuban memorabilia and antiques. 

After settling in we set off for a walk around the area to the town square. Antigua was just as we remembered it, just as charming and bustling with activity. 

The day after we arrived poor Don was very ill with a stomach bug so he was confined to bed. Scott, Pam and John and I went off to get some groceries for the place and to confirm our travel arrangements for the coming days. It certainly made life more comfortable having a kitchen at our disposal. For the rest of the day John and I just roamed Antigua

 Cerro De La Cruz – Cross of the Hill

was our first stop. This is about a 15 – 20 minute walk uphill and is really well worth it as the vantage point looks out over Antigua.

We also had a great view of the Volcán Agua – Volcano of Water and to the right Volcan de Fuego – Volcano of Fire, which had erupted recently in June and continues to puff smoke daily, plus next to it Acatenango Volcano – also known as Tres Hermanas (Three Sisters) volcano.

We were a bit late for the clear sky of the early morning, but still the view was just lovely and well worth the climb.

Roaming the streets…

Our walk about took us past the oh so many gorgeous buildings and had us wandering for several hours. Antigua was first established as the capitol in 1543 then in 1773 there was a disastrous major earthquake which damaged most of then capitol. This is why a number of the buildings have ruins as part of their structure.

Parque Central is the central point/park. The north-south roads are avenidas or avenues. And east-west roads are calles or streets. Therefore we find it fairly easy to navigate our way around due to the avenidas and calles.

Lake Atitlan 

Our group were up and out of the house for 5:30 the next day for our trip to Lake Atitlan. The lake is a beautiful volcanic lake in the western highlands of Guatemala. It is well known for its beauty with some saying it is the most beautiful lake in the world. The lake has three volcanoes:- Volcan Atitlan at 3,537m, Volcan Tomiman at 3,158m and Volcan San Pedro at 3020m that are on the edge of the lake making for stunning scenery.

The formation:

My research told me that there was a tremendous eruption of 85,000 years ago called Los Chocoyos, which expelled so much magma from below the earth’s crust that the surface terrain literally collapsed forming a huge, nearly circular hollow which then filled with water and formed the lake we have today. FYI:- (apparently ash from that explosion was found as far away as Florida and Panama).

Enroute:

To get to the lake there was  a drive of a few hours passing what looked like excellent farming land with fields full of numerous crops. Then there was a downhill run of several hundreds of feet, we were more or less off the slope and onto the flat when the brakes failed and our transport rear-ended an older gentleman on a motorbike. Oooops, within no time help arrived, the gentleman was assisted to his feet and our driver was being questioned. It appeared that luckily not much damage had been sustained.

We were at Panajachel, the launching point for the various launchas that taxi folks around the lake, where we were met by our guide and taken for breakfast and to our launcha. 

When we approached the lakeshore just looking out over the water with the clear, blue, morning skies reflecting in its surface and with the volcanoes in the background really was awe-inspiring. It is an area of great natural beauty.

Across the lake we went to the small town of San Juan. The inhabitants are the Tz’utujil and are known for and proud of their textiles. 

After off loading we tracked up hill through the village. Our first stop was a small art shop, then we entered a women’s cooperative selling fabrics.

There we had a demonstration showing the production of the beautiful fabrics from the picking cotton being  hand spun. The dyes are all from natural sources such as plants, whose sap saturate the raw cotton thread, which is then soaked in a banana sap bath. This banana bath sets the dyes.

It was just fascinating, simply amazing how even the full moon affects the color of some plant dyes making for a brighter color.

The lady then showed us how the weaving takes place, all by hand on looms of various sizes. The products are really superb, I purchased a lovely wrap/shawl which is double sided and in divine blues.

Up the hill we continued to the local medicine woman. Again it was fascinating to see all the herbal remedies for simply any type of ailment. 

Still further up the hill we found the church and had an excellent view of the village and lake below.

Santiago Atitlan

Our next stop was around the lake shore to Santiago Atitlan. The Lonely Planet guide book says: “Santiago Atitlán is the largest of the lake communities, with a strong indigenous identity. Many Atitecos, (as its people are known), proudly adhere to a traditional Tz’utujil Maya lifestyle. Women wear purple-striped skirts and huipiles embroidered with colored birds and flowers, while older men still wear lavender or maroon striped embroidered pants. The town’s cofradías (brotherhoods) maintain the syncretic traditions and rituals of Maya Catholicism. There’s a large arts and crafts scene here, too. Boatbuilding is a local industry, and rows of rough-hewn cayucos (dugout canoes) are lined up along the shore.” All of which we found to be true. 

Here we all got into 2 tuk-tuks, yes 3 per vehicle in the back, it was quite a squeeze. Off we went stopping first to visit an elderly lady who had marvelously woven and embroidered fabrics and items for sale. She then demonstrated how the local ladies wore their hair bound in a band that twisted around and around their heads, quite astonishing I thought. 

Then we went a bit further to see a local “shaman” performing rituals, I am sure they do, but this seemed a bit “put-on” for the visitors to me. 

Off we went again visiting a memorial to slain Mayans and then to a vantage point to view the volcanic peak across the bay. It was a lovely view so we did a group shot.

Next stop was lunch followed by a walk through the streets passed the shops and market venders downhill to our launcha.

Across the lake we travelled back to Panajachel.

This time the waters were a bit rougher, but the scenery just as spectacular with the afternoon sun and clouds that were moving in from the highlands.

Preparing the tombs and graves in Antigua

The following day we had no outings planed, however it was the 31st of October, yes halloween in North America, but here, in Guatemala this time of year is the lead up to – Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead – November 1st. A couple of days before Dia de Los Santos, families start to prepare the tombs and graves of the beloved to assure they look good for the big day, when the spirits of their loved ones return.

Many families spend time cleaning, painting, and decorating the graves with lively colors. By the time November 1st arrives the cemetery is adorned with everything from single roses to enormous wreaths. We wanted to visit the local graveyard and see the families preparing the sites.

We walked to the large graveyard in Antigua and as we approached we could see the approach road was lined with street foods and stalls selling trinkets even stalls set up for games.

When we entered the graveyard we were greeted by locals and given prayer cards. Further inside we could see that flowers abounded, families were cleaning, painting and sprucing up the grave sites and tombs.

Even the gold engraving was being refreshed on some tombs, there was a happy atmosphere as they converted the cemetery into a colorful garden.

In the background we saw Fuego puffing smoke while families prepared for the return of the spirits of the dead. I found the whole experience just fascinating…….

Antigua’s market

Then it was off to the market for a visit. We lucked out at the market, the stalls were fully stocked with absolutely every type of fruit and vegetable from mulberries, to plums, to fresh peas, all kinds of spices, herbs and nuts, just a feast for the eyes.

I just wish all places had such markets instead of plastic grocery stores. We bought very little, but wandered for a good while up and down the many aisles of stalls.

Iglesia de La Merced

We revisited a favorite ruins and church – Iglesia de La Merced is a baroque church and dates from the seventeenth century. It was established as a male monastery and suffered damage in the 1773 quakes. This damage remains and is where the old monastery stood.We walked along the second story for views of Antigua and down on the old fountains of the monastery. 

That evening we walked through Antigua looking at the various halloween festivities. To most folks it seemed like a good time to enjoy a night out dressed in costumes.

November 1st, Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead

November 1st, Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead, we had arranged to go with a guide to the Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite. Every year on November 1st, the people of Santiago and Sumpongo Sacatepéquez celebrate the Day of the Dead by flying giant colorful kites.

Sacatepéquez Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite

We arrived in Sacatepéquez in the morning and the town was already swarming with folks. Off we walked to 1st visit the famous cemetery. On this day, locals take their homemade kites to the nearby Sacatepéquez cemetery, to honor the departed. “The 3,000-year-old tradition of flying colorful kites on the Day of the Dead derived from various religious practices and locals believe it’s a way to communicate with the dead. They dress up in colorful clothes, clean-up the graves of their loved ones, cover them with colorful flower petals and even have picnics right there in the cemetery. It’s a happy celebration where people have fun and honor those who are no longer with them.” 

According to local legend, each November 1st evil spirits invaded the cemetery to disturb the good souls resting in there. The discomfort brought to the souls of the dead causes them to  rise and restlessly roam the streets and local homes. As this phenomenon persisted only on each “Day of the Dead”, the villagers decided to consult with the elders. The solution that was recommended by the elders, was to force the the intruders to leave by having a clash between pieces of paper in the wind. The elders advised that the impact of the wind against the paper takes away the bad spirits. For this reason, the locals spent hours making kites so the good spirits remain calm and they stop receiving unwanted visits from these bad spirits.

1st The cemetery at Sacatepéquez 

Arriving at the cemetery after squeezing in with the flow of people we could see that many grave sites were beautifully decorated and families were indeed enjoying time with each other. Some little boys were flying kites from a top of monuments, everyone was having a great time. 

Then we set off to join the flow of humanity heading to the kite festival where the giant kites were to be seen. It was just a human crush getting to the football field where the festival was taking place, but we all made it unscathed by pick pockets or such. 

The kites are an amazing sight! Just enormous, beautifully designed and created with great care. Known as “barilletas gigantes” in Spanish, the giant kites of Sacatepéquez are masterpieces.

They must take great skill and patience to complete as the detailed pictures are wonderful. Apparently months before the Kite Festival, teams of people begin work on the colorful kites that will bring them great honor and the respect of their peers.

The giant kites are made of cloth and paper tied to a bamboo frame, and features a colorful design, usually with a religious or folkloric theme. In recent years, designs have been hinting at the ever-growing corruption of the Guatemala government. Most of the kites we saw had messages for Mother Earth and caring for the natural world/environmental concerns.

The giant kites are brought to the Field near the cemetery in the morning, but they don’t take to the skies until dusk, when people have finished tending to the graves and enjoyed a good meal.

We however did not want to stay till evening and so after a few hours of watching and admiring the kites we set off back through the hordes of people to our van and Antigua.

El Fiambre

Once back we went to a wonderful restaurant close to our residence for lunch. Scott and Davinia ordered the famous dish of the day: El Fiambre.

This is a salad made with more than 50 ingredients that include vegetables, sausages, meats, fish, egg, and cheeses. It is usually eaten with the family gathered either at home or surrounding the tomb of a loved one. This dish takes about two days to prepare. The most common dessert is a sweet squash, sweetened with brown sugar and cinnamon, or sweet plums or chickpeas drenched in honey. Their salad – El Fiambre looked wonderful, but huge, and they only had the 1/2 dish.

The Escuela de Jesus procession

At 3:00pm there was to be an important procession from a nearby church that we were advised by Marco our guide, not to miss, as it was very special. Off we went a bit late, but we found a good vantage point along the street down from the church, Escuela de Jesus. 

The first thing we noticed was how everyone was dressed in black, some women had gold veils covering their heads, there were church persons dressed in various religious robes.

The atmosphere was somber, dark, serious, as we stood watching the procession slowly pass. There first approached folks forming lines along the route, again all in dark clothing, through them came others with large canisters billowing smoke, we guessed to ward off the evil spirits.

Then approaching slowly an enormous “float” made of wood and sculpture all being slowly carried or borne by lines of carriers.

They were proceeding at a steady slow pace to a very soulful dirge-playing marching band. The weight of the float must have been tremendous, the look on the faces of the bearers was of true suffering or deep concentration, maybe even prayer. It was absolutely incredible!!

I was very curious as to why and could only imagine they were atoning for sins. What I did find out was that the procession through the cobblestone streets of Antigua, marks the end of the Day of the Dead, All Saints and All Souls.The Roman Catholic Church: Escuela de Jesus, created the float with the lifeless body of Jesus being mourned by the Virgin Mary and the Angel Gabriel at hand.

It is borne by numerous men and women – the faithful – throughout the streets. It is carried down the cobblestone streets these numerous bearers, honoring the spirits of their ancestors, those who had suffered and died, and for those who still carry great burdens/sorrows. While the accompanying band plays somber music which are laments thus expressing mourning or grief, as would be appropriate at a funeral. They set off at the church at 3:00pm and continued until mid-night, finishing at the same church.

One of the most incredible processions, the atmosphere was all encompassing.

After that unforgettable scene we went back to the house for a excursion to Scotts friend’s place for a very nice pizza dinner.

Saturday found us going to Guatemala City where I got my hair cut, we picked up a few supplies and headed to the airport to meet Ethan, our Grandson. All went painlessly and by the afternoon we are back in Antigua with Ethan.

Sunday we all tracked to the bus and started our return journey.

It again was a painless journey. 1st to Guatemala City the to Rio Dulce.

We all were back by 6ish. Us to Aeeshah and Chico, from a perfectly wonderful week in Antigua and surrounding area.

Mere colour unspoiled by meaning, and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a thousand different ways. – Oscar Wilde

This journey has always been about reaching your own other shore, no matter what it is. – Diana Nyad

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Back on the Rio Dulce in Guatemala, October ’18

 

PHOTOS LINK BELOW 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNjV4yCsCD2arUcU7 

Returning to Aeeshah and Chico!!

John and I flew into Guatemala on 5th, October. We stayed overnight in the city in order to get the early morning Litegua bus back to the Rio. So by 9:30 we were well underway back to Aeeshah and Chico, both of which we were quite anxious to return to. 

I had been in contact with Chico’s minder Kevin who had reassured us he was “muy bien”. We had been reassured Aeeshah was fine by way of our friends who often shared his company at poolside.

Our dinghy however had suffered some damage. John had left it hanging from the arch, the heavy rain had filled it and a piece of plastic had plugged the drain, consequently the bottom had cracked. Moral of the story: Always haul our dinghy onto the deck and turn it over. Anyway, Kevin had rescued it and arranged for it to be repaired by a friend of his Carlos.

Well, the pictures of the repair looked excellent so we were also optimistically anticipating seeing a perfect repair. 

On arriving in Fronteras at just after 3:00pm we were able to get to the pick up dock for, Sledgehammer, Catamaran’s ferry. (Just a 5 hour bus ride was a record for us). Back at Catamaran everything was perfect, Aeeshah was somewhat moldy, but fine, Chico was lazily happy to see us and the dinghy look perfect.

Aeeshah’s bi-annual facelift

Getting ready for the cruising season was our priority. Aeeshah was hauled at Ram Marina. The workers power washed her and the hull looked great so it was just necessary to paint the bottom. John had anticipated spending his days sanding and then painting, but when he arrived in the morning the guys were already sanding and then the next day painting. It actually is/was so inexpensive to get them to do the work that it wasn’t worth his time. So he supervised, did a few chores and gossiped/shared knowledge with the other guys nearby.

And right at the last minute, just before Aeeshah was splashed our new name arrived and was applied. 

Meanwhile I stayed in our cabana doing canvas repairs. The main ones being the sail cover needing a new zip and restitching the dinghy cover. 

India again….

Our accommodation was once again in “India” a cabana right by the dock and waterside. It really is lovely, the only drawback is the lack of cooking facilities so it means relying on take outs or salads that I can make.

Chico just took full advantage of having lots of space to lounge about. Then he would stalk the lizards in the surrounding foliage with me having to encourage him to catch and release, which he accommodated. Actually he never kills his prey, he just presents it to us for us to return to the wilds. 

Walking…..

We managed to squeeze in a few walks, a couple to the area across the water from Catamaran where there is a track/lane that leads through the rubber and palm oil plantations.

It is a good hike as there are steep rolling hills, its very pretty, the occasional traffic being locals who are just so friendly and some wildlife in the form of water buffalo and pigs.

Another walk was to Castillo de San Felipe.

The castillo was first built in the 1500s by the Spanish and sits on the edge of Lago de Izabal in a lovely park.

The walk there was along the “main” road so there was traffic which made it not so pleasant. The walk around the lake shore was scenic and peaceful.

We then got a launcha back to Fronteras. 

More dinghy issues

One morning on the Revolution public holiday when the waters were very busy with the massive motorboats of the wealthy that were zooming about causing huge wakes, we were crossing over to Ram when we were slammed by one gigantic wake. CRACK!!:(( Was heard and felt by me as the newly repaired bottom cracked at a weak point where the repair had been made….what a pain! It was just a small crack, but a crack is a crack.

So we took the dinghy out of the water and John set about reinforcing the repair, plus putting in a handy bow shelf. He did an excellent job and we are hopeful that our dinghy wows are over. Carlos had done a great job, but it needed to be reinforced, made stronger on inside and outside. 

And then it was time for us to go on holiday to Antigua with a few friends to witness the All Saints Day/Day of the Dead celebrations and rituals, plus Ethan was arriving to join us for 6 weeks.

“Anything we have, we are only borrowing. Anything. Anytime.” ― Janet Fitch

“This world is but canvas to our imaginations.” ― Henry David Thoreau

 

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September: In Bermuda; walks, work, birthdays, boating and family times

 

PHOTOS LINK—>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SgK44qbd4csFEpkAA

Before we knew it we were into September

With so much to still get done before we returned to Guatemala and Aeeshah.

Renovations, work and sorting our space

Kate, Jae and May with their 2 cats moved out at the beginning of the month. Just 2 days later our painters moved in, and we had to strip and ready the rooms ahead of their progress.

In 5 days they were finished painting every room and all the woodwork. Then it was reorganizing and cleaning every item, corner, window, so on and so forth. We would start as early as we could and work all day. John borrowed our son’s van and made dozens of trip to the dump. I took several loads of stuff to be donated to charity.

Once we were nearing the end of that phase we needed to look for some furnishingsWe purchased what we could and have arranged for the rest to be imported. Just 2 days before we were due to leave we declared the place nearly finished. Our intensions are to open an AirB&B aka a holiday home. We both are happy with our results.

Month of birthdays

September was the month of birthdays, 1st we had Quest’s 1st birthday and his birthday party.

This party took quite a bit of getting organized by Chrissie, with our help, but when the it was held everyone had a fun time.

2nd we had our son Gavin’s birthdayAt that time we were staying with Gavin and Katie and that evening we had an excellent sushi dinner. The 3rd birthday was John’s, again being at Gavin and Katie’s house, but this time we indulged in an amazing Indian curry of several dishes.

Walks along the dunes

I had begun walking in the early mornings to get myself back to some level of fitness and to shed weight….Dr’s orders. So every other day I would head out, cut through the Tribe roads nearby and onto the dunes above the nearby beaches. 

It really is very beautiful along the dunes in Warwick. I could go eastwards walking the dunes above Longbay towards Astwood Park and then double back or take the lanes home again. Or I could go westwards above the Warwick coves and Horseshoe Bay and double back along the cliffs of the coves. 

Every and any direction is wonderful, plus as the dunes are hilly and sandy the trails do offer some challenge. In fact the local athletes run the trails to keep their fitness. The early morning was reasonably cool before the sun was fully blazing, plus there was hardly anyone around.

On Gavin’s boat to King’s Point in Somerset

One Sunday afternoon we went on Gavin’s boat to King’s Point in Somerset. There we spent a lovely afternoon playing with the 3 grandchildren that were there,

Lily, Eve and Quest. 

The weather was perfect as there was a nice breeze and the water temperature was refreshing rather than the tepid temperatures of mid summer.

Kate, Jae and May at their new cottage

Another late afternoon and evening we visited Kate, Jae and May at their new cottage in Somerset. They live in a cute, 300 year old pink cottage where they have a 3 acre garden. 

We sat in the garden while May and Quest played. It really was a lovely evening, a few drinks and snacks, a barbecue dinner followed by dessert. A great time was enjoyed by one and all.

Our time home in Bermuda was busy, but enjoyable, however we are both really happy to be back to Aeeshah and Chico.

 

The theme you choose may change or simply elude you, but being your own story means you can always choose the tone. It also means that you can invent the language to say who you are and what you mean. 

Toni Morrison

    

 

 

 

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