Aeeshah

PHOTO LINKS:- Album Guanaja  Part 1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/efrubyz28RSPu6VC9

                                                 Part 2    https://photos.app.goo.gl/94QhUxrb6jHuMmJr9

Our visit to Guanaja two and a half years previously had been quite brief, but at that time we were intrigued by the island. They say Christopher Columbus “discovered” Isla Guanaja on July 30, 1502, on his fourth and final voyage of discovery, so legend says. Columbus was met by large dugout canoes carrying 25 Mayan Indians in each and was quickly welcomed ashore. He found excellent water and noted that he had, “never tasted water of better quality.” The island was so covered in pine trees that Columbus initially named the island Pine Island.

We had a lovely sail from Port Royal to Guanaja, arriving in the mid afternoon we found just 2 other sailboats there and they looked like permanent residents. We went ashore to Hans’s place which was ahead of us in the anchorage. He seemed friendly and granted permission to us to use his “dock” to leave our dinghy the next day.

The Blue Dot Trail

The following day we left the dinghy and set off to find the blue dot trail which apparently would lead us towards the top of the island, past the water dam and around in a circuit of about a 3 – 4 hour hike.

As we left from Hans’s place we were joined by a very cute little brown dog, who we later found out his name was Bobby.

This cute little fellow accompanied us for our entire adventure often taking off to chase what ever he spied along the way. Well to start we had to find the trail, this took some hunting and some asking of the few folks we saw on our way.

Finally we were off uphill, on the blue dot trail. It was a lovely, but steep and rugged uphill climb. At stages ropes were tied to help pull oneself up the steepest, slippery party, but the way was shaded and the views downward were wonderful. 

Once up the steep side we reached the dam. This is the dam for the main water supply to the island. Guanaja is an unusual island as it has natural water springs. The water bubbles and flows from springs in the highland and supplies the people with wonderful, natural, pure water.

Onward and upward we were basically walking the ridge line from one top to the next and the next. We had to really hunt for the blue dots as the trail was very over grown from not being over used.

I found that the grasses that were covering the trail were a kind of razor/sedge grass and soon my bare legs were covered in fine cuts. So what with all the no-see-um bites from lower down and the razor cuts my legs were quite a mess – note to self – wear long socks or pants in future.

John was often way ahead as I would be distracted by the views and taking pictures at every turn. It was our first good hike for a very long time, and just so enjoyable scrambling about on the slopes. 

The trees on Guanaja are very unusual for the region as they are pine, a special pine that grows on Guanaja.

The whole island used to be thickly forested until hurricane Mitch blew through in 1998 at reportedly 200mph for 2 hours, when quite a number of the trees were stripped bare and lost. However the slopes have more or less re-forested and the pines are very much there again. 

After 2 hours we were at what was or seemed to be the highest point around. We had a choice either to continue and have faith that the trail would be a circuit as we had been told, or to retrace our steps. I chose to continue following the trail so onward we went gambling we were on the homeward route. 

Sure enough, we soon found that the route did swing towards the correct direction and we started a steep, downward slope arriving at the dam from the other direction.

Once at the dam we dangled our feet in the cool water and rested for a while. Once we were at the bottom we found the whole venture had taken us just under 4 hours which was a good time seeing as we had quite often lost the trail and had to hunt for it. 

Off to the waterfalls, La Casscada

The next big venture was to the waterfalls. To get there we had to travel by dinghy towards Bonacca where there is a canal that cuts from one side of Guanaja to the other. This canal is quite deep and lined by mangroves. Once through the canal we travelled up the shoreline towards Michael Rock.

Past Michael Rock we proceeded to hunt for the correct landing spot. We actually ended up nearly at Mangrove Bight at the other end of Guanaja. So we back tracked slowly along the shoreline looking for an outlet from a river as where there are falls there has to be a river and a river has a mouth. We spotted the small river mouth and believe it or not a rare sign announcing La Casscada – waterfalls. 

Off along what we took for the path beside the river we headed towards the falls. It was a lovely riverside trail, slippery in places, not very well marked and often we had to cross to find a way forward.

I just waded as trying to keep my feet dry seemed silly. We did reach an area which I believe they call the lower falls, but there we were confronted by huge boulders to get around with a drop below onto other boulders.

There was a line attached to use, but we both decided that the risk of injury out weighed the necessity of reaching the big falls. Maybe if there were others with us we would have ventured on, but we were a long way from the boat or help. So we enjoyed the lower falls and the adventure and headed back. 

On our way in the dinghy along the shoreline we enjoyed the scenery and stopped off at an old dock near the Columbus monument to walk the shoreline for a stretch and a snack in the shade of a tree.

You need to be careful where you sit in the wilds of Guanaja as we found out – there are ticks. John had spotted one on the little dog the previous day and then we both found a few on ourselves. 

Along the canal to the Western end.

Another great venture was when we again travelled through the canal to the other side and explored along the shore line of the western end. 

We firstly locked the dinghy to a tree of the first beach of the western end. Here we spotted a pathway and a sign announcing that the area was a reserve. Off along the path we trod, first facing a very rugged way up a washed out hillside path.

Finally at the top we found beautiful views, but another sign saying that the way ahead was private property.

John really wanted to continue, but in the other direction up to a ridge line along the top of steep hillsides to the highest point we could see in the distance. I just felt that as my legs were so beaten up from the razor grass that I did not want to go. Plus the whole plan had been to explore the shoreline. So back to the dinghy we headed. 

The shoreline here is very rugged in places and just beautiful. The reefs looked to be excellent for snorkeling, the water just crystal clear and turquoise blue.

Once we were further along the  West End Bay we walked along the 2 mile beach enjoying the sunny day.

Afterwards we had a snack lunch and returned down the canal to Aeeshah. 

Savannah Bight?

One of the days we tried to get to Savannah Bight via a pathway we had been told ran along the shoreline. We managed to walk as far as a small farm and then the pathway was blocked by the farmyard and rubble.

So we doubled back to the peninsular, past some very nice homes and looked along the shore for an alternative route, asked a local and concluded there is no path to Savannah Bight. So we decided to go in the dinghy along the shore to the settlement.

The dinghy ride was very lumpy as we were going into the wind, but after about half an hour we were there. And what was there? Not much, mainly fishing boats and large supply boats which were in the process of docking on the shoreline.

We decided to just cruise around and leave, there was just nowhere to land the dinghy anyway.

We cruised back along the shoreline enjoying the scenery.

Mia Cassa Too:

                         is a restaurant on the hill above the bay where the anchorage is located.

This restaurant serves the most delicious food and has wonderful views over the anchorage. We visited twice and both times had the Lion fish.

The view form there in the evening is lovely too, plus they have a hummingbird feeder. Unfortunately the hummingbirds proved to be quite camera shy.

Our second visit we were in the company of a number of other cruisers. 5 of which were off a boat that had just arrived. They left the following night and wrecked the boat on the reefs off French Cay…….but thats a story for the next blog to follow…….

Bonacca

Supply shopping is always an adventure because you have to take the dinghy across the anchorage to the town/island of Bonacca.

This is one of the strangest islands of all, most of the population live on it and it is a maze of buildings, sometimes compared to Venice.

There are no streets, and no cars or scooters, even bicycles are prohibited. Everyone walks along sidewalks, pathways down narrow alleyways. Many of the homes and businesses are on stilts out over the water some being three stories high. Just about everything you might need can be found in Bonacca if you are willing to look or ask. The locals all speak English, so it is easy to interact.

 Now why would the majority of the population live on this small island while there is a huge main island? Well, in days gone by the locals found that the no-see-ums, the biting bugs were just too vicious and plentiful on the main island.

And so they mainly inhabited the little sister island. And if you ever experience the bites of the no-see-ums that are on the main island you would agree.

Walking around Bonacca is like a test of directional navigation, it is not large, but set out like a winding maze of alleyways and water ways through and around the buildings. Supply boat day is the day to shop and the island is busy with the men using carts to deliver the goods and shoppers getting supplies while they last. 

Earthquake

One morning I arose around 6:30 or so, went into the head, just sat on the toilet when….. The whole boat sounded like it was hit by something. There was a rumbling sound and a sensation of a shaking. I went as fast as possible to the cockpit to see what the heck had happened …… there was nothing there. I was really puzzled, what had happened?

A while later I heard from a fellow cruiser that they had felt it and thought it was an earthquake. Sure enough when John awake and looked online he found it was a quake, not far from us, under the sea.

 Pelican Walk

Our last venture was to walk the shoreline from the anchorage to the other small settlement at Pelican Walk. This was a really fun walk.

We started following small pathways along the shoreline, past homes and abandoned buildings, sometimes even through a property. The pathway then climbed up at slope and continued along a shelf of a steep hillside above the water, one slip and on the rocks below you’d find yourself. 

Once down the path we were at the beginning of the settlement. Along Pelican walk we passed homes on the seaward side standing on stilts, guessing to avoid the bugs.

On the landward side we saw children and youths in uniform having left a school on the hillside.

We stopped to chat to folks and continued to what we think was the end as we could not continue any further without passing through gates.

On the way back we stopped along the pathway amongst some mangroves to chat to a fellow. Within all of 2 minutes we were slaughtered by the no-see-ums. 

Guanaja really is a beautiful, unspoiled treasure which I would happily visit again.

A Guanaja sunset

Go back? He thought. No, good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go! – JRR Tolkien

Like all explorers, we are drawn to discover what’s  waiting  out there without knowing yet if we have the courage to face it. – Pema Chodron

PHOTO ALBUM—>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/ds5NAzBHHvwyyVJG9

We arranged for us to go back to West End to meet up with Carol and Derick for a few days of snorkeling and such.

So off we left from Jonesville Bight using a strong westerly wind for a very swift sail through rough seas to West Bay. As it turned out Derick and Carol never ventured out that day as it was so rough and windy, but arrived the following day in nearly equally windy easterly winds.

West End

After we arrived we enjoyed a swim in the bay that was protected by the reef. However with the wind blowing into the bay we had some real rocking and rolling through the night. 

Another big reason for getting to West Bay was to get cash, groceries and laundry done. So first off we dropped off the laundry then we got a taxi to Elden’s to do a restocking. With chores out of the way we had a few fun days with Derick and Carol. We enjoyed a lovely lunch at a local restaurant and an evening together on Aeeshah catching up with news of mutual friends.

Walking to West End Bay

Off we set in the morning to walk the entire beach and waterside from West End “town” to the West Bay at the very end.

It is shady in the morning as it faces west and the scenery is lovely in the morning light. Plus the fun parts are scrambling over the rocks and trying to avoid getting wet feet. Past resorts some shuttered, some very modern all very well maintained with raked beaches. About two thirds of the way there you find a bridge that goes over a private boat canal. As the bridge is quite tall it affords quite a good view of the bay.

After the bridge you cut through various smallest  resorts along a small broad walk and then there you are at West Bay the hub of tourism.

This beach is just dedicated to making the average cruise ship passenger happy. It is enjoyable strolling along looking at everything on offer.

Derick was checking out the fly fishing opportunities, stopping every so often to watch the fish, or so he said. We had a grand time. 

Snorkeling was another fun afternoon. The reefs there are just lovely and the water very clear. Unfortunately I forgot to load my card in my go-pro so no photos that time

Off to Port Royal area

At the Eastern end of Roatan are a couple of very large bays: Old Port Royal and Port Royal. After them there are a few islands too, but we were bound for the bays. Our choice of anchorage was actually a mooring buoy off of Mango Creek Resort.

We did as usual and ran our own check to make sure it was secure and then doubled up with lines to the chain too. The other bonus of being off the resort and paying for a mooring is security. There is security both day and night. We could tell they checked us at night by the light that would regularly sweep across the boat. In such a lonely area this is very comforting.

This lovely resort is only accessible by water and when we arrived it was “shut” as the owners were away. However the friendly staff let us wander around and stretch our legs.

The large, manicured grounds were enjoyable to wander around, plus there were trails leading up into the highlands above – next time we will walk them. 

Dinghy trips around the bays

We spent each day we were in the anchorage traveling by dinghy to the far reaches of each bay. In the bay we were in we travelled to the end of Lime Cay Bight

where we found a trail at Conch Cay Point.

Following this we walked a distance along the shoreline – never saw another person, however there were some fancy homes looking down on us. 

Around Jenning’s Point and into Port Royal

we travelled the shoreline, again there were a few homes, some derelict, some for sale and a couple seemed occupied, but nobody about. The majority of the slopes were forested and we had planned to find a trail or 2, but everywhere looked very overgrown and bush hacking was not for us.

At Fort Cay where the old British fort is located we were unable to go ashore as it was posted private. 

The Cow and Calf islands are lovely rugged outposts where the water was crystal clear.

From Port Royal again in the dinghy we were able to pass through a canal into Old Port Royal.

This again is a massive bay however with even fewer signs of habitation.

There was a dredger that looked to be stored at the end of the bay and a very interesting looking wreck on the reefs.

A number of water taxis were crossing the bay taking folks to the next canal that actually leads to the very end of the island, the other side and the next island. We wanted to explore it , but felt it was time to move on. So we were off again ….

The flower is aware of the fact that it contains everything within it, the whole cosmos, and it does not try to become something else. – Thich Nhat Hanh

Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius

PHOTO Albums here —->>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pps3e6SCidiDqWpu7

French Cay area 1st

Aeeshah returned to French Cay area in the second week of January to meet friends Derick and Carol on Latitude who had sailed from the Rio. It was also about time we did some boat chores, stocking up and such. Derick and Carol arrived with no problems despite the higher winds and seas. We had a very nice evening aboard Latitude catching up.

Old French Harbour

John and I dinghied into Old French Harbour in search of a fuel dock. We also toured the Harbour while there. We both really like the traditional fishing boats of which Roatan seemed to have many, new and old.

The homes in Old French Harbor and the ones around the back area where we go to get to the grocery store are also quite a sight. On stilts over the water, built of wood and tin sheeting they often look unsafe lying at angles that suggest they are in need of greater support.

Many are gaily painted but surrounded by trash and grunge in the yards or under the wooden stilts they sit on. People sweep it off their porches, old cars, toys, ships just lay where they were last left rusting and decaying.

Anyway the rustic homes and fishing boats derrick and new make for interesting sights and photos as we pass by.

Snorkeling off Little French Cay

We went on the dinghy to the off reef side – outside of Little French Cay where we tied to mooring buoys and went snorkeling. To say the reef is really, very, beautiful, is an understatement.

The corals are numerous and healthy, the fish are abundant with a wide variety of sizes and species. The water is very clear with great visibility. The reefs slants from the shore downward dropping off on a wall of several hundred feet not far from shore so the temperatures of the currents vary. 

We both enjoyed the different snorkels and Derick came along on one too. After which we stopped off shore from the tiger’s cages to visit with them. On Little French Cay they have a number of exotic animals, some of which are tigers. They look to be in good health, but must be bored in their empty cages.

In French Harbour 

we were able to take the shopping bus to Eldens, plus get our laundry done, then it was time to move on………..

Jonesville Bight 

We set off for new adventures, first stop being Jonesville Bight, just up the coast, bay that we were told was a popular destination with cruisers. A bight is an old English term for a long bay – as in wide at entrance and going in quite a distance.

It was just an hour away, we negotiated the entrance, between the reefs and anchored up on the northern side off Dry Point. In the afternoon we had a dinghy ride around the bay looking at the various areas and then stopped at the small marina/resort/bar across the bay called Trico. 

Trico Marina

This turned out to be a lovely place, quite new with guest accommodation, docking, a bar and restaurant plus excellent wifi. We met the folks running it, had a few drinks and information about the area.

Hiking around Jonesville Bight and Bodden Bight

For our first day we set off from Trico’s Dock through the property to the road for a good long hike. The roadway wound steadily uphill past areas where the foliage was being cleared for development.

The homes that had been built were lovely with brilliant views downhill looking out towards the sea. We really enjoyed the walk with the views changing to forested slopes and rugged farmland all steeply sloping downward.

We reached the main road and walked half a mile in both directions to gain views of the other shore. Most of the walk was somewhat shaded by the large trees that grew along the roadway. 

Dinghy ride To Hog Pen Bight and further

In the afternoon we set off in the dinghy to explore the bay’s/bights eastwards along the coast. We found that there were canals connecting the bay’s so you are able to stay inside the reef for an easier, less rough passage.

We passed inside of Jonesville Cay to the next bight Hog Pen Bight where there were homes, a few bars and small tiendas. The bight itself was quite similar to Jonesville with forested slopes and the structures mainly along the shoreline.

From Hog Pen Bight we followed another Chanel passed Carter Point on the inside and shallow reefs on the outside. This was a very scenic area with a few small resorts. 

Along further we passed under a small bridge, along a narrow stretch which was lined with homes, some of which were literally over the water and just held up with wooded posts.

The homes are again wooden gaily painted, very rustic, most having laundry hanging underneath along with trash. We were wondering about the waste water and sewage when suddenly someone must have flushed, or emptied the drain as a large amount of brown dirty waste water was expelled from under the home to the shallows below.

The end of the channel was Oak Ridge Harbour. Oak Ridge is one of the few towns in Roatan. It is the center for the shrimp boats and trade. There were many shrimp boats docked, both the old and the new. We had a quick look around the Harbour and then headed back.

Oak Ridge for groceries?

On another day we ventured back to Oak Ridge and went grocery shopping.

Leaving the dinghy at the water taxi stop we literally visited every tienda/grocery store. Yes, we did find most of what we needed, and it was very pleasant wandering around.

The town is mainly situated just along the shoreline, very rustic, the streets are kept clean of trash, and the locals are very friendly and helpful.

Dinghy to Calabash Bight 

On yet another venture we passed through Oak Ridge and along a canal to Fiddlers Bight and then Calabash Bight. Fiddler’s Bight was smaller bight with mainly fishing and shrimp boats while Calabash Bight was huge with a few homes and a small marina.

There were a few cruising boats there which looked like the owners had left them. The slopes are all steep and forested, a good area for a boat to shelter from bad weather.

Jonesville village walk

Our second walk was along the Jonesville village shoreline along a lane with rustic homes, tiny tiendas, and other gaily painted wooden buildings.

We soon left the village and were climbing the roadway past the forested slopes. This road offered less in the way of views other than the forested slopes and large grassy slopes for the cattle. Upon meeting the main road we had a look around and then headed back. It was a very quiet area and we were warned that there had been robberies.

Jonesville Point walk

This day we walked down the hill to the bay below the Trico marina. The lane heads downhill past homes and surprisingly a cemetery where the graves were all brightly decorated with plastic flowers.

Along further we crossed a bridge and discovered that the canal under the bridge led towards the mangroves and there was a local longboat touring with tourists. This of course gave us the idea of doing our own tour.

Past the bridge we walked following the rough road along the very pretty shoreside. We crossed another bridge followed the way up a very steep hill and then the track just petered out.

On the way back as we passed a construction site the workers called us over for fresh coconut. They topped the coconut so we could drink the water, which was delicious and then when we finished our nuts he chopped them in half, fashioned a coconut spoon so we could eat the white meat. It really was a yummy treat!

The canal to Carrib Point

Our final dinghy exploration was along the amazing canal that has been created between Jonesville Point and Carib Point Bight.

It leads you down a mangrove corridor passed a few homes and empties you into a mangrove lagoon.

From there you join another mangrove corridor which ends at an area the locals call the Blue Lagoon or Blue Hole.

It is an area where the sea filters over the reef and the bottom is sandy thus the water is a lovely shade of turquoise blue. Beyond there we found Carrib Point Bight. This is another large bight/bay. There we found expensive looking homes on one side while the other is just forested. 

We spent nearly a week in this area of Roatan and had a lovely time, met some more cruisers on other cruising boats, many very helpful, friendly locals and had some excellent walks plus we were safe through a strong northerly wind that blasted in for a few days of disturbed weather.

Why not live each day as if it were the first —> All Raw Astonishment!  – Linda Pastan

PHOTO ALBUM LINK HERE–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xovLNA2TvRS1pk5r8

AND Underwater photos–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/6urmdbRr9rc1SjGz5

So what have we been doing during December? After Ethan left we waited for a nice high tide to get us over Porto Stuck the only possible channel south on the inside of the reefs and cays.

We sailed successfully passing over the shallows with the lowest water under the keel being approximately 2 inches and arrived at an anchorage in the Drowned cays. Louise and Gary also came with us and there we sheltered for a few days from a northener that blasted down. It gave us a chance to catch up with getting the boat back to travel mode and cleaning some locker space. 

We then set off for Placencia, stopping over night at Blue Ground Range where it is fairly sheltered from the winds.

Once in Placencia we again waited for another north wind to blow through and then checked out of Belize. We left Placencia and motor-sailed to Ranguna where we headed off to Utila.

Utila, Honduras

Our destination was Utila, Honduras which we reached after a very calm overnight motor sail and a lovely sunset and a brilliant sunrise just off Utila.

In Utila we checked into Honduras and had a walk around reacquainting our selves with the island. It had been about two and a half years since we had last visited Utila, but little had changed.

The streets are exactly the same, the same stores, same bakery, etc…. It is quite a charming islands and very much the backpacker diver destination. 

Helping Island Girl

That 1st evening while chilling in the cockpit with our cocktails we heard a commotion over the radio. Upon recognizing the voices and boat names we realized that there was a boat, Island Girl off shore in difficulty. We responded along with another boat in the anchorage, Haycon. John in our dingy and Brit and Sandy in their dingy set off in the dark off shore, in rough seas to assist. I stayed and monitored the radio while contacting a fellow ashore who raised some local help too. 

John told me that when they arrived at Island Girl she was floundering in rough seas, with no engine and a damaged inner foresail Bert the skipper was exhausted after struggling for many hours and was in real need of help. He and his wife Dorothy had left the Rio Dulce the previous day after crossing the bar. During the passage they had lost the engine, could not restart it and had encountered head winds. With little sleep, heavy seas, no engine and a damaged rig they were in real difficulty.

So Halcyon – Brit and Sandy, plus John boarded Island Girl and set about sailing her with the reefed jib into the entrance between the reefs and to the anchorage. Meanwhile I did manage to rouse some help from the land, a man called Richard heard the call and arranged for a friend to take his boat to the entrance between the reefs. As it turned out the vessel was not needed as John and Brit sailed it right in and dropped anchor with little difficulty. Everyone had just arrived from a day/ overnight passages and so by the time the rescue was over and some dinner was had our beds were just so welcoming.

We had planned to set off for Roatan the next morning, but decided to stay and see if John could do some sort of fix on Island Girls engine. We had a pleasant morning walk along Utilas Main Street this time towards the lagoon and then in the afternoon John set to on the engine.

What he found was what he expected, the fuel tank was full of gunk, that had grown while the boat had been laid up in the Rio Dulce. The seas being rough had stirred up the gunk which had vowel led the fuel which had bunked up the filters and clogged up the system. He cleaned the filters and ran the engine, but warned Bert that he needed to get the fuel changed and the tanks cleaned. Everyone was mighty relieved especially Bert and Dorothy as they had feared their engine was shot. 

Roatan

Off to Roatan we sailed on the 21st …. After a fast passage we arrived and entered French Harbour – the anchorage off of French Cay. There we found other cruisers boats including Halcyon. 

The few days before Christmas we spent visiting the wonderful grocery store- Eldons, where we could buy just about all the supplies we needed and hadn’t had in quite a while.

We explored in the dinghy, had a few walks around Fantasy Island and to the various nearby shops.

Plus we had a lovely Christmas Eve evening aboard Haycon along with other cruisers. 

Christmas Day

Christmas Day was another day of excellent weather. We had arranged with Sandie, Pam and Lynne to visit the iguana sanctuary. This was established years before when the iguana was threatened by the locals hunting them as food….I personally can not imagine being desperate enough to eat iguana meat.

Anyway a gentleman had rescued several species of iguana including the very rare mangrove iguana. Thus the iguana reserve.

We visited from their dock and it was free. We took all our vegetable and fruit scraps to feed them. Arriving at 8:30 meant that we arrived before the visitors and were free to roam around, in fact we were welcomed.

The iguanas were quite incredible, just all sizes and kinds and dozens wanting our scraps. Apparently there are 3,000 of them now. They do breed them and so the real bay ones are kept in a cage till they are safe to roam. We really enjoyed ourselves and it was a unique Christmas morning.

We enjoyed a quiet day and had a lovely Christmas get together at Fantasy Island marina tiki hut.

There we quite a few of us and everyone contributed several dishes to create a wonderful lunch.

After lunch John and I had a walk around the resort and a relaxing evening on Aeeshah. 

West End

We headed to the West End – an area in Roatan famous for its beaches, snorkeling and diving.

The sail was an easy and smooth along the shoreline, arriving in 2 hours, through the cut in the reefs, we went into the anchorage and found that there were no mooring buoys so we tried to anchor.

After 8 attempts we just dropped the anchor, knowing it was temporary and decided to attach our own lines to the mooring screws. We were told by Halcyon that the parks had been in the middle of renewing the buoys, the screws were in place in the few sand patches, marked by plastic bottles, so we attached our own lines, took Aeeshah and tied her up and finally we were secure – one and a half hours later! However it is a wonderful anchorage so the fuss was well worth it.

While in the West End we had a fabulous time. We snorkeled, had a few dives,

walks everyday around the area and along the shoreline to the very end.

Again we got together with Haycon for drinks on their catamaran, and drinks on ours, plus a Sunday afternoon playing Mexican Train dominoes.

The reefs are beautiful so the snorkeling and diving is excellent and just so easy. There are parks buoys one can tie the dinghy to and dive or snorkel from, the fish are plentiful, the corals numourous plus there were giant sponges- we both had a wonderful time. And of course the sunsets were amazing nearly every night we were there. 

We are the only ones who get to decide what our time and energy and our talents go to. – America Ferrera

There are no wrong turns only unexpectant paths. – Mark Nepo

PHOTOS LINK BELOW 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wNjV4yCsCD2arUcU7 

Returning to Aeeshah and Chico!!

John and I flew into Guatemala on 5th, October. We stayed overnight in the city in order to get the early morning Litegua bus back to the Rio. So by 9:30 we were well underway back to Aeeshah and Chico, both of which we were quite anxious to return to. 

I had been in contact with Chico’s minder Kevin who had reassured us he was “muy bien”. We had been reassured Aeeshah was fine by way of our friends who often shared his company at poolside.

Our dinghy however had suffered some damage. John had left it hanging from the arch, the heavy rain had filled it and a piece of plastic had plugged the drain, consequently the bottom had cracked. Moral of the story: Always haul our dinghy onto the deck and turn it over. Anyway, Kevin had rescued it and arranged for it to be repaired by a friend of his Carlos.

Well, the pictures of the repair looked excellent so we were also optimistically anticipating seeing a perfect repair. 

On arriving in Fronteras at just after 3:00pm we were able to get to the pick up dock for, Sledgehammer, Catamaran’s ferry. (Just a 5 hour bus ride was a record for us). Back at Catamaran everything was perfect, Aeeshah was somewhat moldy, but fine, Chico was lazily happy to see us and the dinghy look perfect.

Aeeshah’s bi-annual facelift

Getting ready for the cruising season was our priority. Aeeshah was hauled at Ram Marina. The workers power washed her and the hull looked great so it was just necessary to paint the bottom. John had anticipated spending his days sanding and then painting, but when he arrived in the morning the guys were already sanding and then the next day painting. It actually is/was so inexpensive to get them to do the work that it wasn’t worth his time. So he supervised, did a few chores and gossiped/shared knowledge with the other guys nearby.

And right at the last minute, just before Aeeshah was splashed our new name arrived and was applied. 

Meanwhile I stayed in our cabana doing canvas repairs. The main ones being the sail cover needing a new zip and restitching the dinghy cover. 

India again….

Our accommodation was once again in “India” a cabana right by the dock and waterside. It really is lovely, the only drawback is the lack of cooking facilities so it means relying on take outs or salads that I can make.

Chico just took full advantage of having lots of space to lounge about. Then he would stalk the lizards in the surrounding foliage with me having to encourage him to catch and release, which he accommodated. Actually he never kills his prey, he just presents it to us for us to return to the wilds. 

Walking…..

We managed to squeeze in a few walks, a couple to the area across the water from Catamaran where there is a track/lane that leads through the rubber and palm oil plantations.

It is a good hike as there are steep rolling hills, its very pretty, the occasional traffic being locals who are just so friendly and some wildlife in the form of water buffalo and pigs.

Another walk was to Castillo de San Felipe.

The castillo was first built in the 1500s by the Spanish and sits on the edge of Lago de Izabal in a lovely park.

The walk there was along the “main” road so there was traffic which made it not so pleasant. The walk around the lake shore was scenic and peaceful.

We then got a launcha back to Fronteras. 

More dinghy issues

One morning on the Revolution public holiday when the waters were very busy with the massive motorboats of the wealthy that were zooming about causing huge wakes, we were crossing over to Ram when we were slammed by one gigantic wake. CRACK!!:(( Was heard and felt by me as the newly repaired bottom cracked at a weak point where the repair had been made….what a pain! It was just a small crack, but a crack is a crack.

So we took the dinghy out of the water and John set about reinforcing the repair, plus putting in a handy bow shelf. He did an excellent job and we are hopeful that our dinghy wows are over. Carlos had done a great job, but it needed to be reinforced, made stronger on inside and outside. 

And then it was time for us to go on holiday to Antigua with a few friends to witness the All Saints Day/Day of the Dead celebrations and rituals, plus Ethan was arriving to join us for 6 weeks.

“Anything we have, we are only borrowing. Anything. Anytime.” ― Janet Fitch

“This world is but canvas to our imaginations.” ― Henry David Thoreau

PHOTOS LINK—>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/SgK44qbd4csFEpkAA

Before we knew it we were into September: 

With so much to still get done before we returned to Guatemala and Aeeshah.

Renovations, work and sorting our space

Kate, Jae and May with their 2 cats moved out at the beginning of the month. Just 2 days later our painters moved in, and we had to strip and ready the rooms ahead of their progress.

In 5 days they were finished painting every room and all the woodwork. Then it was reorganizing and cleaning every item, corner, window, so on and so forth. We would start as early as we could and work all day. John borrowed our son’s van and made dozens of trip to the dump. I took several loads of stuff to be donated to charity.

Once we were nearing the end of that phase we needed to look for some furnishings. We purchased what we could and have arranged for the rest to be imported. Just 2 days before we were due to leave we declared the place nearly finished. Our intensions are to open an AirB&B aka a holiday home. We both are happy with our results.

Month of birthdays

September was the month of birthdays, 1st we had Quest’s 1st birthday and his birthday party.

This party took quite a bit of getting organized by Chrissie, with our help, but when the it was held everyone had a fun time.

2nd we had our son Gavin’s birthday. At that time we were staying with Gavin and Katie and that evening we had an excellent sushi dinner. The 3rd birthday was John’s, again being at Gavin and Katie’s house, but this time we indulged in an amazing Indian curry of several dishes.

Walks along the dunes

I had begun walking in the early mornings to get myself back to some level of fitness and to shed weight….Dr’s orders. So every other day I would head out, cut through the Tribe roads nearby and onto the dunes above the nearby beaches. 

It really is very beautiful along the dunes in Warwick. I could go eastwards walking the dunes above Longbay towards Astwood Park and then double back or take the lanes home again. Or I could go westwards above the Warwick coves and Horseshoe Bay and double back along the cliffs of the coves. 

Every and any direction is wonderful, plus as the dunes are hilly and sandy the trails do offer some challenge. In fact the local athletes run the trails to keep their fitness. The early morning was reasonably cool before the sun was fully blazing, plus there was hardly anyone around.

On Gavin’s boat to King’s Point in Somerset

One Sunday afternoon we went on Gavin’s boat to King’s Point in Somerset. There we spent a lovely afternoon playing with the 3 grandchildren that were there,

Lily, Eve and Quest. 

The weather was perfect as there was a nice breeze and the water temperature was refreshing rather than the tepid temperatures of mid summer.

Kate, Jae and May at their new cottage

Another late afternoon and evening we visited Kate, Jae and May at their new cottage in Somerset. They live in a cute, 300 year old pink cottage where they have a 3 acre garden. 

We sat in the garden while May and Quest played. It really was a lovely evening, a few drinks and snacks, a barbecue dinner followed by dessert. A great time was enjoyed by one and all.

Our time home in Bermuda was busy, but enjoyable, however we are both really happy to be back to Aeeshah and Chico.

The theme you choose may change or simply elude you, but being your own story means you can always choose the tone. It also means that you can invent the language to say who you are and what you mean. 

Toni Morrison

PHOTO ALBUM HERE:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/j9akpsUTYdMRk6ac8

August was spent in Bermuda.

We flew back and it was WHAM!! Back into the realities of the real world, family life and strife, plus visitors, a major Bermuda holiday – Cup Match, a family wedding and camping on Fern Island. PHEW! 

Cup Match:

Cup Match is the major Bermudian holiday. The first day celebrates the emancipation of the slaves and the second day celebrates Sommers – Sir George Sommers who “founded” the colony when his ship was wrecked here in 1609.

Cup Match occurs on the Thursday and Friday at the end of July and beginning of August, a 4 day holiday. Traditionally the East end – St. Georges plays the West end – Somerset in a game of cricket. Each end of the island takes a turn every other year hosting the “Game” as it is referred to. All Bermudians are very loyal to their chosen team – mine being the West end as that is where my Nana’s family, the Roberts is from. We arrived just before Cup Match, but we didn’t get a chance to partake as there was much catching up with the family to do.

At the game there is all kinds of Bermudian food, venders galore, and games of “Crown and Anchor” -a gambling game. Cup Match is the only time and place that Crown and Anchor gambling is legally allowed in Bermuda. Other Cup Match traditions are camping, beach/swimming, boating, sailing, and really all water sports.

Wedding on the beach:

 John’s niece – Laura arrived with her future husband and their 4 girls………….

A few days later John sister, the grooms parents and 2 of Laura’s buddies arrived………

We had meet and greets where they were staying, plus a dinner at our son’s house. John was very happy catching up with his sister, Lynda.

The Wednesday after we arrived there was a small, evening, wedding on one of the South-shore coves followed by a lovely dinner at “Sea Breeze” – Elbow Beach Hotel. 

And during the day:

John and I were also the care givers/nannies during August for one of our grandchildren – May who is 2. Her nursery was closed for August so we had her for the day. This was complicated by not having any transportation.

However we survived and basically by tag-teaming we managed to entertain, babysit her and get some of our numerous chores completed. We also fitted in walks along the tracks with May and some with Kate too, feeding the horses

and a swim at the beach with Chrissie and Quest.

In the evenings Chrissie and Quest would arrive home and we would spend the evenings together.

At the same time we had our various Dr. Appointments and projects around the property that needed to be seen to…..a busy month!

A day on the water:

We also a lovely afternoon out in our son Gavin’s boat. We went to an area we call Kings Point, in Somerset.

There we tied up along side a friend – Will’s boat and had a fun family afternoon. Several other friends of Katie and Gavin stopped too.

It was a regular Bermuda family boating , swimming, paddle boarding, socializing, children and dogs playing and relaxing.

 Fern Island camp:

Fern Island is an island that we have camped on for the last 30+ years, (excluding the last 5). My Dad even camped there wayyy back when he was a young man in the early 1900s.

It’s a very small island with a dock, a wooden “house” (that was used to house the Boar officer prisoners), a tiny beach and as its name implies there is much fern growing. The Yacht Club oversee the island in the form of a trust of which we are members.

The island is very special to all of our family as we started camping there in the 1980s when Gavin and Christina were quite young, when Kate was born she camped every year from 6 months old until she was 16. We always spent about 2 weeks camping, the pets came too and our children had their friends come along. Plus we had our friends and family from the UK come and visit or stay on Fern with us.

Those were wonderful family times and our son Gavin has started the Fern tradition again.

He sets up for a camping weekend and invites friends and family, many of which camped there with us and now have children. We were back to join camp, John went out with Gavin to set up on the Thursday. They prepared the island by cutting the grass, erecting tents, and organizing the house. 

 We all arrived on the Friday, John and I, Gavin, with Lily and dog Amy; friend – Daniel, wife Melody their 2 children Harley and Piper; friend Sean with his wife, 3 children and dog …….. we were the permanent campers.

The day visitors were numerous and the children many, and all but one, Quest, were little girls. At one point there were, nearly a dozen children under the age of 10 and all girls except baby Quest. Oh and there were dogs too as many as 3 at a time. I think the dogs and the children were the ones that had the most fun.

We swam, they ski tubed, jumped in the water, chased balls, had a campfire, water ballon fights, slept in tents, had barbecues and snacks, paddled at the beach and prowled the island. Plus we had a full moon! All too soon it was time for us to break camp and head home. It was a wonderful Fern camp!

  “Other things may change us, but we start and end with the family.” —  Anthony Brandt

“Rejoice with your family in the beautiful land of life.” —Albert Einstein

PHOTOS LINK BELOW, 1st July in Rio Dulce, 2nd Coban for Rabin Ajau 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jBsAGZK2uhL5ngxs6  

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/9UGn1PpLstRB4o117

Once July came we knew it was just a matter of weeks before we headed home to Bermuda, so it was time to really get down to the business of boat chores.

A cover for Aeeshah

Well our AC died, it was actually the water pump that feeds it the cooling water that died and so we were faced with incredible heat cooking inside the boat. The deck was getting heated to a degree that you couldn’t walk on it and so the inside was up to 98F+, which is far from comfortable. Our main and cheapest option was to buy a tarp of some type and make a cover for the boat.

We bought a large tarp, which was really an old billboard sign which came as an incredibly heavy 30ft x 60ft. Within 2 days we managed to lay the thing out on the old tennis court at Catamaran, design our cover, measure, cut, fit and have Aeeshah under a shade cover. Phew! It was really worth it as the temperature inside the boat then stayed below 90F most days. Plus it funneled the breeze below keeping the boat ventilated even when it poured with rain. So we were then able to get the inside ready for our leaving.

Activities

John and I found ourselves busy many days with extra or rather optional activities. A friend started Yoga at Catamaran; so 3 mornings a week we would join the yoga class. Yes, John, yoga and he enjoyed it and found it beneficial too.

There were early morning walks. Meeting our friends at the dock across the way at 7:00am so as to try to beat the heat and walking the 2.5 miles to the cross – roads and back.

To be truthful I was one of the walkers and John opted to run with the runners. He really surprised himself in that he was still quite able to run well, even up the steep hills. I am sure the locals think we all are absolutely loca/crazy!

Then there were the trivia nights. Again we suprised ourselves, we won again and again, so out of 5 weeks we won 2 of those and had to be the “officials” twice, as if you win you have to “run” the triva the following week and did well another week. We won more than any other team! Our team mates, Gillian and Gordon, are real experts having years of trivia experience.

Mexican Train Dominoes became the regular Sunday afternoon activity. I found I enjoyed the game as it is partly skill and partly luck.  Once again Gordon and Gillian are the experts.

There was  a Catamaran evening cruise that was great fun. We left the marina on Sledgehammer the marina launcha with other residents, a staff of 5, a bar and pizzas. The Sledgehammer headed to Fronteras, Ram and Mar Marina where others joined us.

It was then off towards Lake Isobel where we enjoyed the setting sun and drinks with our friends. Heading back just as dark the rain started to fall and put a bit of a damper on the “party” but really was just a refreshing ending.

Sadly the wife, of the owner of Catamaran died. Louisa had been with Kevin in Guatemala City as Kevin was/is seriously ill. Louisa passed away one night and the family brought her back to Catamaran for the funeral and burial. John and I attended her service which was a lovely celebration of her life.

Louisa was buried on the hillside facing the marina, just across the water.

Coban and Rabin Ajau

Dream Catcher a Rio restaurant had arranged for a group of interested cruisers to travel together to Coban, to see the Annual Cobán Folkloric Festival which takes place in the last week of July. Cobán is situated in the highlands in Guatemala’s central cardamom- and coffee-growing region, quite a distance from the Rio. We were picked up from Catamaran by the Dream Catcher launcha and transported to Mar Marina where our little red bus was awaiting our arrival.

We drove the north/west route towards Coban taking a lunchtime detour to the Hun Nal Ye Ecological Park. This is a resort/park in the Alta Verapaz area, which offers all types of activities and has a restaurant.

The “road/trail” from the main road is a very, bumpy, slow, 11km  ride. The restaurant offered all types of foods, but as we were late arriving we all ordered a quick sandwich lunch which was delicious. The grounds looked to be very lovely and during a short walk to the nearby river we saw howler monkeys in the trees.

When reaching Coban we could see the festivities were in progress. We dropped our bags off in our room at the Hotel La Posada and set out for a short evening stroll around the town square the Parque Central square.

We buzzed around the venders and craft stands stretching our legs and then headed back to meet the group for dinner.

After a wonderful breakfast the next morning we headed to the Parque Central Square to once again wander around the various stalls.

Catedral de Santo Domingo

The square is overlooked by the huge, whitewashed 16th-century Catedral de Santo Domingo. We joined together with friends Louise and Alan and went to visit the cathedral.

This cathedral was apparently rebuilt after an earthquake and this probably explains why I found it to be quite simplistic compared to most others we have visited.

El Calvario Temple

was our next stop. This is a hilltop church has panoramic views over Coban and of the Rocja Mountains in the distance.

It is the most sacred site in Coban and the focus of religious practices throughout the year. We were told that pilgrimages are made to this sacred church and that the pilgrims climb the 100 steps leading to the church on their knees.

There is also a story/legend that when a Lacandon hunter encountered two jaguars that were sleeping on a rock instead of killing them he left them in peace and when he returned the following day, the place where the jaguars had been he saw an image of Christ. It was this sighting that led to the decision to build a church on the spot.

We found there were indeed many folks visiting this lovely, quaint, church. Many were taking offering that were burned in the designated pyres, or they carried candles that too were burned for loved ones. Outside the church on the wooded hillside there was also a shaman conducting rituals with folks. It is indeed a sacred place for many.

Las Victorias National Park

Nearby is Las Victorias National Park; a wooded nature reserve with a network of trails was our next stop. Here we really didn’t know what to expect. We paid our entrance fee and headed down the first trail. This led us to a large pond where we spotted a crocodile basking in the sun.

After a wander around we hunted for the other trails, which led us to the park, headquarters, a troupe of scouts and some lovely flowers. I believe the flowers were a form of irises or lilies.

The Ermita de Santo Domingo de Guzman

This is a small chapel dedicated to Coban’s patron saint and it just happens to be next to Las Victorias National Park. There were a few men preparing the area for the following day’s festivities, so we decided to have a quick look, as we were right there. I never really figured out the name of the patron saint, nor the significance of this small chapel, but it was obviously quite revered by the locals who were there.

Kaphe Koban

This was where we had lunch that day. It is at a traditional Mayan restaurant where we were served an ancient dish called Jocon. It was wild hen in a cardamoms  flavored sauce, rice, vegetables and a hibiscus flower drink. This chicken was as tough boot leather, most of us could not even cut through the chicken part we were given, but what I could get did taste quite nice.

The Annual Cobán Folkloric Festival/Ceremony; Rabin Ajau

Rabin Ajau is considered the largest and most important of the Mayan festivals. It is celebrated on a grand scale, with firecrackers, cofradia processions and traditional dances in Cobán. Meaning ‘the daughter of the king’ in the Mayan Q’eqchi language, the Rabin Ajau festival is the crowning of the country’s Mayan “beauty” queen.

The contenders for the role of Reina Indigena, (indigenous queen), are not only judged by their looks, but also the languages they speak, their knowledge in traditional customs and ceremonial presentations. Mayan young ladies from all over Guatemala travel to Cobán for this once in a lifetime opportunity. Parading in their traditional huipil and headdress, they show off their skills in weaving baskets and handicrafts.

We went as a group in our bus at 3:00pm towards the auditorium where the festival was to take place. Our leader Lizelle said from past experience that we needed to secure our seats early as it would be packed. We arrived, had to line up for security, even had to take a photo with my camera, which was really bizare, guessing it was to prove it really was a camera and not a bomb? Anyway we got our seats and sat down to wait the beginning.

Weellllll, we waited, and waited, some of our group disappeared at 5:00pm, the rest of us politely sat and sat. Finally around 6ish some speaches were begun, speaking in Spanish and Mayan dialects.

There were some important government figures introduced, including the Presidents wife and Mayan leaders. However we were seated in and area where viewing was difficult and the judges table was elevated in front of us.

The process was just dragging along and the rest of us deceided to leave to have dinner. We got our bus back to the hotel. I later found out that the actual ceremony never starts till 8:00pm, this year it was delayed until 10:00pm and the Mayan Princess was finally chosen at 5:00am. Anyway we did get to see some lovely ceremonial clothing, and that was fine with us.

The following day we wandered around with Louise, poor Alan was ill.  We looked all around the Parque Central square,

watched the Mayan dancers in front of the Cathedral and enjoyed the market.

The ceremony at La Ermita de Santo Domingo de Guzman PAA – Bank Festival

Then it was off to the ceremony at the Ermita de Santo Domingo de Guzman. On the way there we saw the dancers making their way past the El Calvario Temple followed by a crowd who were periodically letting off large noisy firecrackers, which would BOOM!! Upon arriving we found our group already having lunch.

It was another traditional Mayan dish, this time it was a hunk of turkey in a cardamom type sauce with a tamale wrapped in a leaf, which one had to eat using fingers. I believe it was called Subanik. Plus we were served a type of sugarcane and cinnamon drink that was special to the celebration. Both of which, food and drink were very good.

After we had eaten we went to the outside area where the men in their traditional costumes were dancing. There appeared to be 3 distinct groups each dancing different dances.

Again, the language barrier meant we were left to really interpret what we could from the festivities. The costumes were very colorful and intricate. The music was quite basic, almost like a circus carnival sound.

A while later in the inner courtyard the last years and the new this years Mayan Princesses were doing traditional dances with what I guessed were the elders and the chosen young girls from different groups/tribes.

Again, there was obviously a story to the rituals but just no way for us to find out. We both enjoyed watching the Mayan festivities and I just love their regional dress. When you understand that they stitch every stitch, weave every thread, it is just amazing!

The following day we travelled back to Rio Dulce via another route.

We then had 5 days to finalize all the boat chores, sort tidy and ready everything before our travel to Guatemala City and our return back to Bermuda. 

We did the usual 6 hour bus ride to Guatemala City, and were very happy there were no delays. I had chosen Sunday to travel as apparently there aren’t any strikes, demonstrations and fewer accidents….least that was what I was told. We spent a day in Guatemala City and my hair/locks were finally cut off!

I want to see more of it. Travel. Discover. Wander and wonder. And let life itself be my great adventure. – Oprah Winfrey

Wonder, curiosity, and unbridled joy keep you young. – Lisa Kogan