Aeeshah

Semuc Champey day 1 and 2 photo album:-   https://photos.app.goo.gl/6cHsDKbaBtZ64ZxX6

Semuc Champey  day 3 and 4 photo album:-  https://photos.app.goo.gl/KxRz7e5f14t94P7h6

Semuc Champey for a few days

The trip to Semuc Champey was born when Caroline was chatting to me about where she would like to visit in Guatemala and Semuc Champey was one place. My recommendation was to stay at Utopia as that was where we had stayed some years ago and we just loved our time there. From that conversation she asked Ana about transport and Ana said she plus her hubby – Osmar, son Pedro and little dog – Mica, would all like to go too, and yes she would arrange transport. Then the trip grew: I asked Don and Pam, and our other friend Don. Caroline invited Dave and Anne, plus Gail and Pete, Don invited Steven and Louise and at our weekly Mexican Train dominoes we all asked Robin and Tony to come along too. So, we ended up with a group of 18 plus a little dog.

Day 1 – traveling 

We left early Friday morning from Mar Marina, completely packing the large bus with everyone’s gear, everything from Steven’s painting gear to games and several Ukuleles.

Our driver opted to take the Copan route to Semuc Champey, so we had a long but very scenic ride of nearly 9 hours. We stopped a few times for pit-stops at gas stations, but we were all prepared with our packed lunches and various forms of entertainment.

For me it was to stare of the window, shooting my camera at what ever view or site grabbed my attention and in Guatemala there are plenty of sites and views along the way.

On arriving at Lanquin we met our drivers for the last stage of the journey, (for most of us this was in the back of a truck), to get to our accommodation at Utopia.

After checking in we all met up in the lounge and bar area that looks out over the beautiful countryside. John and I had a lovely cabin overlooking the river with a hammock on the porch.

We all had drinks, shared laughs, conversed, and ate a lovely dinner of vegan lasagna. 

Day 2 – exploring Semuc Champey

We enjoyed the breakfast in the morning and most of us set off once again in the back of the trucks for Semuc Champey.

The lanes all around this area are unpaved and so very bumpy, plus the lanes wind around hairpin turns, veer steeply uphill and downhill.

I loved the ride in the back of the truck! We disembarked at the yellow bridge just outside the park.

After seeing the state of the bridge I personally was very happy to walk across rather than ride.

The walk to the park entrance is a short one along the way enterprising vendors sell everything from beer to meals. Unfortunately it was the weekend and so there were many other folks in line at the entrance.

Once through we set off down the lane and then up the pathway to El Mirador.

This is a steepish climb up many rough steps to get to the look out point above Semuc Champey. Again the many other visitors that day meant it was not the peaceful climb we had previously experienced, but rather a noisy slog.

Everyone made it to the top, there was a wait for the look out, but we devised a way to by-pass the wait. As before the overlook of Semuc Champey was spectacular! It is such a beautiful area.

Down we all clambered and once at the bottom we split up into smaller groups.

The folks we were with went with us and had a look at the meeting of the two rivers at the upper end of Semuc Champey.

Here you can see the one river that comes down the gorge and plunges under ground down a crevasse disappearing below ground. You also see the seeping of the top river from the limestone sides where it begins to fill the turquoise water pools that form the above ground river.

The many ferns and mosses, turquoise waters, plus the vibrantly green trees make for a picturesque site everywhere you wander. 

We ate a picnic lunch under some trees by the side of a river pool and then we went for a refreshing swim in the water.

Admittedly it would have been much nicer without the crowd that day, but we enjoyed ourselves anyway. John and I chose to explore all along the edges of the water-pools.

I really enjoyed following the Swallow-Tail butterflies and the slippery stepping stones above the various waterfalls.

We were all to meet our Utopia guides back at the bridge for 3:30 to start our tubing. So a few of us set off along the path that followed the side of the river to the park entrance.

We stopped along the way at the lookout where we could see the other side of Semuc Champey where the 2 rivers joined, the underground river pouring out from underground and the river pool topside river pouring down the final waterfall.

We could also see what looked like a very interesting pathway along the other side. Again, a very beautiful area, the colors are amazing! 

Once back at the meeting point we were encouraged by the vendors to buy drinks and sit in their lean-to. Many of the vendors are just children, but they are quite skilled at encouraging folks to buy the beer or water. 

The truck arrived along with all the tubes. There were quite a number of us, most of our 18 were there plus others, we were accompanied by a few guides and of course a boy selling beers. 

Into the river we went at once floating downstream. It was lovely and cool in the water and quite relaxing floating along.

As we started to near the first rapids we had to form chains by having someone behind you while their feet and lower legs were under your armpits and having another in front holding your lower legs and feet.

Then we were off again rushing towards what looked to be quite angry rapids. The ride through was a rush, a great whooshing, zooming up and down rush.

By being in a chain we had a guide commanding/steering us telling us where to steer and paddle so it actually felt that you were out of control but being controlled. – Great Fun!!

At our final set of rapids we were to make for the left and down a steep set of rapids, we did as told, had a great ride, but looked around to see one group had crashed into the protruding rocks and grasses in the middle. I could see John was one of the casualties and so was a bit worried. However, other than a few bruises everyone was ok. Apparently their guide was not very good and didn’t have the skills necessary, I was relieved everyone was fine.

It was an excellent tubing experience! Such fun!

That evening we all met again in the lounge bar area enjoying drinks and some enjoying space brownies. Our dinner was again very good.

After dinner a group of local musicians started to play and some dancing started. It was fun to watch and a brilliant end to a wonderful day.

Day 3 – walking along the river 

On the third day of our trip a group of 5 of us decided to walk along the river to the swinging bridge we had seen while tubing, then on to Semuc Champey, to explore the other side of the river where we had spied the pathway. 

The first part of the walk led us along the riverside on a slippery muddy pathway. We stopped to take in the views, looking up towards the highlands across the cornfields the early morning clouds were just rising, it was just lovely.

Further along we spotted a church from which some very rich singing was emanating. We clambered up the steep slope and had a look, it was the Sunday morning village service taking place.

Back down at riverside we came to the swinging bridge which we carefully crossed to the other side, again the views of the countryside were lovely.

Back on the path we continued to follow the riverside instead of the lane, thinking it must lead to where we needed to go, but that was not the case. We ended up having to follow a path across a cornfield or two, up a slope of coca trees and found ourselves facing a group of little children.

We asked permission to cross their garden of their home. They scattered, giggling and we were faced with what must have been their Dad hanging out the window of their small thatched home. He allowed us proceed and so eventually we found the end of the pathway by a small tienda and the lane we were meant to be following. 

Eventually we reached the yellow bridge that crosses to the Semuc Champey site, we continued along the other side towards the caves.

We paid 10Q each to follow the pathway to the cave’s attendant. The pathway was shaded, cool, very green and paved with stones.

Across the river we spied Steven painting and Louise sitting alongside on a large bolder.

The pathway took us to the expected area, where the underground river exits the underground cavern and the top Semuc Champey River waters fall down.

The scenery was stunning! Such a lovely area. There were a group of daring back packers swimming and climbing the waterfall to jump off the top. After they left we all had our snacks for lunch, relaxed and enjoyed the scenery. 

We had thought we would get a truck ride back, but ended walking back along the lanes and then the riverside.

That evening we all met in the lounge – bar area and had another wonderful dinner and shared stories from our day’s adventures.

We saw the brilliant paintings that Steven had been doing while on the trip.

Many of the others had attended the coca process that Utopia offers and so they had the chocolates they had made from scratch to share after dinner. There were many differing types and all were enjoyed.

Day 4

Day 4 was again a travel day.

First we loaded up the trucks and headed to lanquin to meet our driver.

We had hoped to travel back along a shorter route, but our driver was reluctant, he felt it was a lonely, possibly dangerous route, so we travelled back the way we had come.

Again the countryside was beautiful with magnificent views, interesting buildings and sites.

It was a trip that was enjoyed by all!

“Wonder, curiosity, and unbridled joy keep you young.” – Lisa Kogan

“Mere colour unspoiled by meaning, and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a thousand different ways.” – Oscar Wilde

PHOTO ALBUM –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/dZm6Mf54qCHKPohf9

July 4th at Catamaran

There was a small July 4th celebration at Catamaran. It was held poolside, everyone brought snacks to share and the marina supplied pizza. Several persons from other marinas came along to join the fun. JoAnne and Bill off of Ultra organized some games. The 1st game consisted of 4 folks sitting in front facing the rest of the crowd. Words were attached to their foreheads and the crowd had to give them hints as to what the word was. The fun was enjoyed by all. 

Siete Altares/Seven Alters and Playa Blanca/White Beach

John and I went aboard a launcha with a group on a trip that Ana had organized to Siete Altares/Seven Alters and Playa Blanca/White Beach.

We headed across the El Golfere, which is a large lake just down river. The day was a wonderful sunny Rio day with blue skies and just a few clouds, the water was still as there is never much breeze in the morning so the reflections were lovely.

Then, we proceeded at full speed down the gorge towards Livingstone. The gorge is always magnificent with its steep tree lined walls, birds abounding while the fishermen in canoes cast their nets. 

After arriving in Livingstone we headed out across the bar turning to port and along the shoreline. Now this was an area that we had never seen as when we enter we head straight towards our given way-points and concentrate on just crossing the shallow bar. The shoreline is quite lovely, typically lush tropical with the coconut palms along the shoreside. There was a statue of a man off of the Livingstone shore, I am not sure what he represents but just guessing he is welcome folks to Livingstone.

The persons living here are a mix of Garifuna, Afro-Caribbean, Maya and Latino people. There are no roads leading to Livingstone, however there are roads/lanes in and around Livingstone and enough traffic to occasionally cause traffic hold-ups.

Siete Altares/Seven Alters

We pulled up to a small wooden dock where we clambered ashore and followed the pathway to the entrance of Siete Altares/Seven Alters.

Now the name Siete Altares/Seven Alters refers to the 7 waterfalls that start up river and are found as the river winds downward towards the sea. It is an area reputed to be very beautiful and is protected. The persons that run the site are of Garifuna heritage and from a nearby village. They run the site that is on their land to raise money for the community.

We followed the pathway for a short distance where it crossed the first water fall. Here we crossed over by walking across the top of the waterfall to the other side. Then we proceeded up another pathway till we reached a stairway leading down to the river where we walked along the riverside. The scenery was lovely, lush, greens of the trees and reflections in the water.

It was wonderfully cool and peaceful walking along the river’s edge, paddling in the water. At one stage the pathway crossed the river to the other side, continuing upriver and passing to the other side we navigated the river, waterfalls and water pools.

Once we reached the end of the riverside pathway we were at the main and largest waterfall – number seven. The scenery was beautiful! We were all looking forward to a dip so we discreetly changed into bathing suits and jumped into the cool refreshing water. 

After an hour we again followed the pathway back to the entrance where our boat was awaiting us to take us onto Playa Blanca.

Playa Blanca

Playa Blanca was even further along the coast towards Belize. In fact it was only 3 miles from the border. We pulled up to a long wooden dock, disembarked and walked a few hundred yards where we found a lovely shaded beach and restaurant.

We were all hungry so we started by ordering our lunch. I had been suffering from a case of upset lower stomach with the usual problems and so was quite wary of what I should eat. I decided on the nachos with beans which was delicious. We had also ordered the lemonada which was excellent. John had a wonderful fish dinner!

After lunch John and I walked as far as we could along the shoreline until we met another river emptying into the sea. It was very scenic area and just wonderful to be back along the coast, walking beaches and looking out across the sea to a distant horizon.

Back at Playa Blanca we found a couple of hammocks in a quiet shady area under the coconut palms and relaxed for the remaining hour.

The ride back in the launcha was very lumpy.

The wind and seas were up and we were having to travel directly into them. So we went quite slowly, just chugging along the coastline until we reached the entrance to the Rio Dulce then we were able to make some speed, however by that time it was 4:30pm.

Up the river gorge we sped, stopping to view the caves along the way. Our final stop was to see the water lilies near a little settlement just before the lake.

It was a lovely day out enjoyed by the entire group.

Our wonderful early morning walks have continued, our friends Pam and Don joined us then they brought another friend along, the group has grown.

We see the rubber men walking the plantation, collecting the rubber, maintaining the trees and cutting the foliage below, life goes on in a steady rhythm here.

Plus we have started morning yoga thus making our exercise schedule complete. We have continued with the Mexican Train dominoes weekly meets and I was thrilled to place second one week then first the next. Overall we have been really quite busy, happily busy doing our boat chores and having fun. 

Collect moments not things. – David Avacado Wolfe

Go gently with the flow of life. Be calm in your actions and peaceful in your thoughts. – Unknown

PHOTO LINK—>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xCWYvasHT59Jp9s49

Back to Catamaran our marina:

It was the regular bus ride back to the Rio Dulce from Guatemala City.

However as it was a Sunday the roads were not impassable and the traffic flowed with only a few short delays. Sitting in air conditioning means that when we stopped at the rest stop for the lunch break heading outside was a real shock. The temperature was sizzling! It feels almost too hot to breathe, even in the shade the heat was intense. We had been warned by friends that the temperature were crazy high with clear skies and little breeze.

Back at Catamaran Marina we were greeted by our friends who were at the pool and by Chico who was actually awaiting our arrival at the boat. Chico had been well looked after by Gillian and Gordon in our absence, in fact he had been pampered. 

Chores as usual:

Over the course of the next few days we got the boat back in order, cleaned and tidied. We were very happy that after a few gentle nudges from John our AC actually worked. It is all of 20 years old and really past its prime so we are planning on replacing it.

We raised the sails, aired them, dropped them, flaked/folded them and have them stored below in the bow cabin ready to go to be restitched by Tom the rigger. We have managed to basically get all of the unnecessary topside gear below deck in preparation for the rainy season – if it ever arrives.

Walks around the area:

The need for exercise is a priority for both of us, however with the heat this means early morning is really the only comfortable time to venture down the trails.

We have managed a couple of  the pipeline walks. This is a trail/local road that goes through the rubber and palm-oil plantations to a local village – Esmerelda and there is a pipeline that runs next to the trail, thus we call it the pipeline trail.

Luckily the dock for this walk is close by so it is convenient at 6:30am. The walks are pleasant and some of the way is shaded, it can be quite repetitive. However I love seeing the local children, the women busy with their laundry, the pigs digging and snuffling in the ground cover and just all of the normal activity associated with life in Guatemala.

Sometimes we walk the Rio Dulce bridge leaving the dinghy at one end we walk across to the other end then down under the bridge to the end of the roadway.

This walk is good for watching the massive semis – trucks nearly miss the cars that decide to stop for photos, the drivers are really crazy.

Fronteras our local town

Then another time we walked out of Fronteras about a mile to the local vet’s to set up an appointment for Chico’s annual shots and we stopped into Carlos the welders junkyard so John could poke through the junk for sale.

All in all despite the heat we have managed to fit in exercise. Fronteras is just wonderful – at least I think so…

There is always something to see, the massive trucks weaving through squeezing past each other, the ladies cooking their delicacies, the wonderful fruit vendors, the fellows peddling their wares on little carts, and on and on, never is Frontares boring. We go in every few days to get what we need and know several of the locals.

Shopping in Puerto Barrios

We went with a group of other cruisers on a shopping trip to Puerto Barrios. This is the main seaport for Guatemala’s Atlantic/Caribbean coast so its a very busy town. The shops we visited were specifically chosen, the Chinese, the Mall, the electronic and grocery store were some. The first visit was just an exploratory visit for us, but we did pick up a few odds and ends.

Then there was a second trip and we went with serious intensions of buying another air conditioner, a window unit. Reasoning being ours is very old, plus expensive to run, whereas a new window unit is relatively inexpensive to buy and run, plus its safer for the boat. So buy one we did …..

Seacacar hike and tubing

Our second trip was to the Seacacar canyon area which is along the Lake Isobel shoreline, near El Estor. Again we were with a group of cruisers. We piled into our van and off we went full ahead to the canyon. On arriving we met the guides and set off up the steep path. According to the info provided there is a 900m climb to the top.

It is approximately 2k long and the pathway has been laid and maintained by the local Mayans from the villages at the top. The whole business/tour started because an American man was rafting down the river and was kidnapped. This was some years ago during the “troubles” when the government was being particularly hard on the Mayans. Eventually the American was released and he stayed living in the area and started the attraction, which comprises of a hike to the top of the canyon, lunch at the lodge that he built and then a tube ride down the river to the starting point.

John was off with the majority of the others, I was at the rear with Anna, a Spanish lady and a guide. We walked, climbed, stopped to rest, chatted and looked at the scenery. For us there was no race, just an enjoyable walk. We stopped at the 2 look out points and admired the wonderful views over the canyon and across Lake Isobel in the distance.

When we reached the large ceremonial cave the rest of the group was just leaving and racing downhill where not much later we again met up with them.

John and I walked through the village to the hanging bridge, across to the village on the other side.

It really was just lovely scenery all around. I was just amazed by the number of butterflies.

There were just masses of butterflies along the river banks, plus dragonflies hovering, birds singing and the sound of the river rushing by made for a magical scene. We wandered back to the meeting place – the restaurant – where we put our bag and then set off to swim in the river.

The water was just sooo refreshing! Back at the restaurant lunch was fajitas that were wonderful! Served with salsa minutely cut and guacamole, beans and rice it was an excellent lunch. 

After lunch we walked carrying our tubes and life jackets to the launching spot for tubing. John, Sabrina and I were the first in and again the water was just so refreshing.

Then we were off down river, sometimes zooming along, bumping into sides, sometimes just drifting, or swirling, I was even going backwards at one point, it was quite a ride.

There were 2 or 3 areas of rapids which were lively and we just ripped through, our guides trying to stop us from crashing into the cliffs. I just loved the scenery!

The canyon sides rose steeply, with trees, vines, grasses, ferns and air plants, water dripping from the sides, butterflies and dragonflies hovering with the sounds of bird songs and rushing water. It was a wonderful tube ride!

Friends and socials:

Another fun afternoon was spent playing Mexican Train dominoes with friends, Gillian and Gordon, and Greg and LizAnne just before they all departed for their trips.

Then there have been movie nights and quiz nights. Gordon, Gillian and us both are a team. We have done well even winning a jackpot!

And of course the regular animals and insects are all around us, the toads, terrapins, and crickets to name but a few they inhabit the Rio and are here to watch and be watched.

“It is only possible to live happily ever after on a daily basis.”

— Margaret Bonanno

“Remember this, that very little is needed to make a happy life.”

— Marcus Aurelius

PHOTO ALBUM:–>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/N4EmnANQBnwu5cJr5

West End

And then it was back to West End where we picked up a mooring amongst many other cruising boats. We had dropped in to await calmer weather, lower seas to cross to Utila and to get to Eldens to stock up – mainly on cat food.

 We found several boats that we knew in the West End, notably First Light, who were getting ready to cross to Cuba. We decided to rent a car as we had a number of places to visit, the dentist for my crown, the opticians for my new glasses, ACE for boat necessities and of course Eldens. So off we went one day, stopping at each to get what was needed. I was very happy with my new glasses from: The Optical Center at the Mega Plaza, my crown again is perfect, from Dr. Grant at: Roatan Dental Center and we are fully stocked with foods and cat food not obtainable in Rio Dulce. Roatan is excellent for services and supplies! 

We also snorkeled while in the West End and again it was excellent. John wanted to dive but I had been feeling unwell and did not feel up to a dive…. 

Utila

Then it was off to Utila. We had a fast but lumpy sail across to Utila. This was our last Honduran Bay islands stop. We had intended to spend more time exploring, but now time was short. We checked out with the authorities, had a walk around and then went exploring by dinghy.

When checking out I had acquired a map of Utila. It showed a few canals, one of which went right across the island. So off we set, along the anchorage to Marschall Lake, where we crossed this inland bay and finally found a canal, aptly named “Canal”. 

This turned out to be the longest and in places the narrowest canal we had ever explored. The beginning was quite normal, average width, with mangroves on both side. As we proceeded the canal got so narrow we were squeezing the dinghy ahead with the mangroves catching and scraping the sides. There was no room to turn around nor change our minds, we were committed by circumstance to continuing.

Finally after quite a ways the canal widened a bit but became shallower so we really needed to stay dead centre. After coming so far we decided to finish the canal. The end came out at Rocky Bay, we managed to just about make it over the bar at the entrance, did a short look about of the bay and then set off back along the canal homewards.

The reason being, it was later in the afternoon and we didn’t want to be stuck in the canal at night. As it turned out it took us 1 hour 20 minutes to get there and 45 minutes to get back, practice makes perfect.

It was just such a crazy canal, I can’t imagine how they had managed to dig it out.

On to Belize

The following day was our day of departure, but as we had several hours beforehand we set off to explore the waterway that lay under the bridge at Upper Lagoon and according to the map leading to a small lake/pond. Again we were really surprised by what we found.

Firstly there was a wooden bridge and short walkway leading into the mangroves to a few homes. After going under the bridge we ventured around several bends and found that in areas the sides had been cleared and there were homes on stilts in the mud sitting along side the mangrove canal.

They were obviously only accessible by boat as there were only wooden walkways over the mud to the canal. The canal went further and finally reached the Big Bight Pond, which was huge. There were two big areas of the pond where there were just mangroves still waters and water birds. Utila seemed full of surprises.

Off to Belize we sailed at 15:00, a short overnight sail. It was an easy crossing, arriving off shore at 7:00ish we crossed the reef at Ranguna and proceeded to Placencia arriving mid morning. There we dropped anchor, I tidied up while John slept for a few hours, he was exhausted.

2 nights were spent in Belize, basically biding time till we could head to Cabo Tres Puntas to get ready to cross the bar. During our day in Belize we had a walk around Placencia to stretch out legs, bought a few items and indulged in wifi from Yolli’s. Belize is still as lovely as ever.

Cabo Tres Puntas and across the bar to Livingstone

At Cabo Tres Puntas we spent the first night in the large sheltered bay of Bahia la Grasiosa. A norther was due and we have found from past experience that winds can be threatening at times in Cabo Tres Puntas, twice there we had strong reverse winds in the middle of the night. The large lagoon like anchorage was really lovely. Absolutely huge in size we found there were even a large pop of dolphins playing and fishing in the lagoon. The night of the norther proved to be no threat at all in this bay, but the next day was overcast and mostly rainy.

We moved to CaboTres Puntas to be in place for our crossing early the next morning. The evening was quiet, 5 other boats were there with us awaiting the morning crossing.

The morning dawned a rainy, misty day, not the weather we preferred for crossing, but off we went. As it turned out we hardly had a problem crossing, the lowest depth shown was 0.01 under the keel and we could feel the drag, but we crossed!

Livingstone is always an experience. We give our agent Raul our documents and then have over an hour till he is ready, so we wander around. After checking in with Raul we quickly headed up river, it was noon and we wanted to be at Catamaran for the evening.

The rain persisted off and on so we had our first rainy up river trip. There were dozens and dozens of pelicans and laughing gulls at the mouth of the river.

The river is always beautiful and magnificent. We arrived by 4:30 at Catamaran and were helped in by friends. 

Since arriving we have enjoyed catching up with friends and have managed to get the boat ready for our departure. Chico is very happy to be back at his land home!

“True happiness involves the pursuit of worthy goals. Without dreams, without risks, only a trivial semblance of living can be achieved.” – Dan Buettner

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Roatan tour 

I flew back to Roatan where John was awaiting my return. He had hired a car for a few days to enable us to get a few supplies and to be able to tour the island. We set off the following day towards the eastern end of the island.

The main roadway is for the most part paved but when you branch off for the smaller lanes they are all dirt, rocky and in some cases washed out.

We bumped our way east to just past Camp Bay Village where we encountered gates and a private sign. Assuming that was the end of the road we made our way westward stopping along the way at various settlements and beaches. 

Our main problem was that signs are practically non existent, so we had to just guess if the small turn offs were for certain places by looking at the gps on the phone.

I believe we visited Camp Bay village and beach, Paya Bay, Diamond Rock, Punta Gorda and Pollitily Bight. All of these settlements and beaches were very scenic, quiet and friendly.

We then headed westward to view the lighthouse on top of Difficulty Hill and drive back via Flowers Bay.

It was a lovely tour of Roatan.

Cayos Conchinos

A few days later we headed back to Cayos Conchinos. We had a lovely sail over, were relieved to see 2 sailboats leaving – which meant a mooring should be available – and our friends on First Light at anchor there. 

The Cayos Conchinos or Cochinos Cays are made up of two small islands – Cayo Menor and Cayo Grande, and 13 more small coral cays. They are situated 30 kilometers northeast of the northern shores of Honduras. They are reputed to be exquisite! 

“The two Hog Islands, the 13 tiny coral cays and the seas around them comprise a marine reserve – it’s illegal to anchor on the reef, and commercial fishing is prohibited. Consequently, the reefs are pristine and the fish abundant. Diving and snorkeling are excellent around the islands, with black coral reefs, wall diving, cave diving, seamounts and a plane wreck. The islands are also known for their unique pink boa constrictors and the strength of the local Garifuna culture.” – Lonely Planet

As we had previously purchased a month pass to the area we didn’t have to pay the parks folks when they arrived. They didn’t seem as friendly this time, and again told us the park regulations.

The next day we went in the dinghy to circuit the island adjacent to the anchorage – Cayo Menor. This is the isle where the Smithsonian has an institute situated to study the area.

-“Cayos Cochinos are one of the most important parts of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, and its environment and waters have been protected as an ecological marine reserve since 1994. There is a very rich flora and marine life that cover an area of almost five hundred square kilometers. Commercial fishing, as well as fish trapping, is forbidden within the marine park. However, local Garifuna inhabitants have permission to fish only with hand lines. In some specially designated areas qualified local Garifuna fishermen can also catch lobsters.”

 However they had allowed the TV Survivor series to set up camp and play their games on this isle. (Apparently there were 10 contestants left).

As we started to round the first rugged point we saw a lovely beach and spotted a “survivor” wading in the shallows while others lurked in the palm trees.

The island’s reefs looked lovely, the scenery was rugged and wild but it was windy so the seas were quite rough. We passed another Survivor camp area, where they looked to be restocking and then a palm thatched construction which was where they do their tribal councils.

The institute was at the other end of the island which we just saw from the distance on our way back.

Off to the Lighthouse

The next adventure was when we set off on the main island to find the trail to the lighthouse and along the ridge line. We had a general idea of where the trail started and so leaving the dinghy on the beach we walked towards the area where the water carriers went.

The water carriers are men who came daily to the area with many plastic bottles to fill with water from the well. They then load the water into their small canoes and paddle the full load out to the outer cays where they live with no water source. We had been told that the trail head was near the well. 

Upon arriving at the well we met one of the water carriers filling his many containers. John helped him carry some of the heavy jugs to the beach and then we set off. 

Well we looked and looked, followed all sorts of paths and did not find the trail head. Returning to the beach we met Bill and Bunny, who said they were visiting and that Bill knew where the path was as he had already been up to the lighthouse. 

So off we set again following Bill. Anyway long story short, Bill didn’t find the trail, so John set off ahead to bush-wack and find the trail. Bill set off on a slightly different route, I was really struggling on the steep, rocky, slippery slope that was covered in all kinds of foliage and goodness knows what else.

Bunny was sort of following me, but finding it very hard going too. In the end John said he found the trail, but we had lost him and each other and had to shout just to go in the direction of his voice. I finally made it to where John was and collapsed with my water bottle vowing to never do that again.

Bill finally emerged and John had to head off to find Bunny. She says he saved her life, she had slid backwards, done head plants into the earth and was done in, but with John’s help she made it to the trail. She also confessed to having a heart condition! We also found we had overshot the trail by 100s of feet, and had to back track to the lighthouse!

Finally we made it to the lighthouse, John and I climbed to the top. Now it’s not an ordinary lighthouse climb, it is just a cylinder shaped metal tube with enough room for an attached metal ladder to the top, where you climb out the hole at the top and down onto a rusty platform, then around the platform to another short ladder up to the final platform at the top.

The climb is really tiring as all you have are your arms clinging to the ladder and there’s no resting place, but the view from the top was well worth it. You can see all around the beautiful Cayos Conchinos. Now the lighthouse also sways so I took my shots and did not hang around up top. 

Once back on the path we took the trail heading to where Bill said they were staying, he assured us it was a wide and much easier way, so off we went….

We emerged just above a few of the small homes and followed Bill and Bunny to where they were staying. This was a beautiful home, which was apparently owned by a group of business/property investors. There we had a cold drink and said our good byes.

Wonderful snorkeling…

Most of the days we were in the Cayos Conchinos we snorkeled in different areas and once John dove.

The reef all around the Cayos Conchinos are spectacular.

The corals, fish, and sea life is plentiful and the water just crystal clear.

The outer cays

We went one morning to visit the outlying cays of which there are 13, but we only passed 7. We started with the one where the water carriers come from everyday. I believe it is called Chachahuate and is a Garfuna settlement whose inhabitants come from Nueva Armenia, Jutiapa. Some say they were exiled out there others say they choose to be there. Anyhow the Garfuna live in small thatched huts on the small sand cay with a few palm trees.

They are allowed to fish with hand lines but otherwise rely on what comes over in the supply boats.

The next cays we passed in the dinghy were small too, but most had trees, some had grass and homes which were fancy and I imagine owned by the wealthy. All in all the cays are lovely too.

We were invited to the home which Bill and Bunny were staying  for dinner. There we enjoyed a very nice dinner a few drinks and the company of the visitors.

The correct trail to Lighthouse

Practically our last adventure was to head back to the lighthouse via the route we took to get down. Then to find the path we “missed” the first time around. It was just a matter of the steep uphill to the ridge line, then along the same path which leads through some attractive forested slopes.

This time I actually saw lizards and hermit crabs, unfortunately we still never saw the famous Rosy Boa that is resident. 

At the lighthouse we didn’t climb just continued passed and followed the wide pathway down the steep forested slope to the beach.

We found that the path came out on the other side of the well from where we were looking, so we missed it from lack of scouting about.

It was a very pleasant hike, took just over an hour as opposed to our 4 hour thrashing about up the steep forested slopes the first time.

The week in the Cayos Conchinos went quickly, we both fully enjoyed ourselves and vowed to return someday.

“Your life is your story, and the adventure ahead of you is the journey to fulfill your own purpose and potential.” — Kerry Washington

PHOTO LINKS:- Album Guanaja  Part 1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/efrubyz28RSPu6VC9

                                                 Part 2    https://photos.app.goo.gl/94QhUxrb6jHuMmJr9

Our visit to Guanaja two and a half years previously had been quite brief, but at that time we were intrigued by the island. They say Christopher Columbus “discovered” Isla Guanaja on July 30, 1502, on his fourth and final voyage of discovery, so legend says. Columbus was met by large dugout canoes carrying 25 Mayan Indians in each and was quickly welcomed ashore. He found excellent water and noted that he had, “never tasted water of better quality.” The island was so covered in pine trees that Columbus initially named the island Pine Island.

We had a lovely sail from Port Royal to Guanaja, arriving in the mid afternoon we found just 2 other sailboats there and they looked like permanent residents. We went ashore to Hans’s place which was ahead of us in the anchorage. He seemed friendly and granted permission to us to use his “dock” to leave our dinghy the next day.

The Blue Dot Trail

The following day we left the dinghy and set off to find the blue dot trail which apparently would lead us towards the top of the island, past the water dam and around in a circuit of about a 3 – 4 hour hike.

As we left from Hans’s place we were joined by a very cute little brown dog, who we later found out his name was Bobby.

This cute little fellow accompanied us for our entire adventure often taking off to chase what ever he spied along the way. Well to start we had to find the trail, this took some hunting and some asking of the few folks we saw on our way.

Finally we were off uphill, on the blue dot trail. It was a lovely, but steep and rugged uphill climb. At stages ropes were tied to help pull oneself up the steepest, slippery party, but the way was shaded and the views downward were wonderful. 

Once up the steep side we reached the dam. This is the dam for the main water supply to the island. Guanaja is an unusual island as it has natural water springs. The water bubbles and flows from springs in the highland and supplies the people with wonderful, natural, pure water.

Onward and upward we were basically walking the ridge line from one top to the next and the next. We had to really hunt for the blue dots as the trail was very over grown from not being over used.

I found that the grasses that were covering the trail were a kind of razor/sedge grass and soon my bare legs were covered in fine cuts. So what with all the no-see-um bites from lower down and the razor cuts my legs were quite a mess – note to self – wear long socks or pants in future.

John was often way ahead as I would be distracted by the views and taking pictures at every turn. It was our first good hike for a very long time, and just so enjoyable scrambling about on the slopes. 

The trees on Guanaja are very unusual for the region as they are pine, a special pine that grows on Guanaja.

The whole island used to be thickly forested until hurricane Mitch blew through in 1998 at reportedly 200mph for 2 hours, when quite a number of the trees were stripped bare and lost. However the slopes have more or less re-forested and the pines are very much there again. 

After 2 hours we were at what was or seemed to be the highest point around. We had a choice either to continue and have faith that the trail would be a circuit as we had been told, or to retrace our steps. I chose to continue following the trail so onward we went gambling we were on the homeward route. 

Sure enough, we soon found that the route did swing towards the correct direction and we started a steep, downward slope arriving at the dam from the other direction.

Once at the dam we dangled our feet in the cool water and rested for a while. Once we were at the bottom we found the whole venture had taken us just under 4 hours which was a good time seeing as we had quite often lost the trail and had to hunt for it. 

Off to the waterfalls, La Casscada

The next big venture was to the waterfalls. To get there we had to travel by dinghy towards Bonacca where there is a canal that cuts from one side of Guanaja to the other. This canal is quite deep and lined by mangroves. Once through the canal we travelled up the shoreline towards Michael Rock.

Past Michael Rock we proceeded to hunt for the correct landing spot. We actually ended up nearly at Mangrove Bight at the other end of Guanaja. So we back tracked slowly along the shoreline looking for an outlet from a river as where there are falls there has to be a river and a river has a mouth. We spotted the small river mouth and believe it or not a rare sign announcing La Casscada – waterfalls. 

Off along what we took for the path beside the river we headed towards the falls. It was a lovely riverside trail, slippery in places, not very well marked and often we had to cross to find a way forward.

I just waded as trying to keep my feet dry seemed silly. We did reach an area which I believe they call the lower falls, but there we were confronted by huge boulders to get around with a drop below onto other boulders.

There was a line attached to use, but we both decided that the risk of injury out weighed the necessity of reaching the big falls. Maybe if there were others with us we would have ventured on, but we were a long way from the boat or help. So we enjoyed the lower falls and the adventure and headed back. 

On our way in the dinghy along the shoreline we enjoyed the scenery and stopped off at an old dock near the Columbus monument to walk the shoreline for a stretch and a snack in the shade of a tree.

You need to be careful where you sit in the wilds of Guanaja as we found out – there are ticks. John had spotted one on the little dog the previous day and then we both found a few on ourselves. 

Along the canal to the Western end.

Another great venture was when we again travelled through the canal to the other side and explored along the shore line of the western end. 

We firstly locked the dinghy to a tree of the first beach of the western end. Here we spotted a pathway and a sign announcing that the area was a reserve. Off along the path we trod, first facing a very rugged way up a washed out hillside path.

Finally at the top we found beautiful views, but another sign saying that the way ahead was private property.

John really wanted to continue, but in the other direction up to a ridge line along the top of steep hillsides to the highest point we could see in the distance. I just felt that as my legs were so beaten up from the razor grass that I did not want to go. Plus the whole plan had been to explore the shoreline. So back to the dinghy we headed. 

The shoreline here is very rugged in places and just beautiful. The reefs looked to be excellent for snorkeling, the water just crystal clear and turquoise blue.

Once we were further along the  West End Bay we walked along the 2 mile beach enjoying the sunny day.

Afterwards we had a snack lunch and returned down the canal to Aeeshah. 

Savannah Bight?

One of the days we tried to get to Savannah Bight via a pathway we had been told ran along the shoreline. We managed to walk as far as a small farm and then the pathway was blocked by the farmyard and rubble.

So we doubled back to the peninsular, past some very nice homes and looked along the shore for an alternative route, asked a local and concluded there is no path to Savannah Bight. So we decided to go in the dinghy along the shore to the settlement.

The dinghy ride was very lumpy as we were going into the wind, but after about half an hour we were there. And what was there? Not much, mainly fishing boats and large supply boats which were in the process of docking on the shoreline.

We decided to just cruise around and leave, there was just nowhere to land the dinghy anyway.

We cruised back along the shoreline enjoying the scenery.

Mia Cassa Too:

                         is a restaurant on the hill above the bay where the anchorage is located.

This restaurant serves the most delicious food and has wonderful views over the anchorage. We visited twice and both times had the Lion fish.

The view form there in the evening is lovely too, plus they have a hummingbird feeder. Unfortunately the hummingbirds proved to be quite camera shy.

Our second visit we were in the company of a number of other cruisers. 5 of which were off a boat that had just arrived. They left the following night and wrecked the boat on the reefs off French Cay…….but thats a story for the next blog to follow…….

Bonacca

Supply shopping is always an adventure because you have to take the dinghy across the anchorage to the town/island of Bonacca.

This is one of the strangest islands of all, most of the population live on it and it is a maze of buildings, sometimes compared to Venice.

There are no streets, and no cars or scooters, even bicycles are prohibited. Everyone walks along sidewalks, pathways down narrow alleyways. Many of the homes and businesses are on stilts out over the water some being three stories high. Just about everything you might need can be found in Bonacca if you are willing to look or ask. The locals all speak English, so it is easy to interact.

 Now why would the majority of the population live on this small island while there is a huge main island? Well, in days gone by the locals found that the no-see-ums, the biting bugs were just too vicious and plentiful on the main island.

And so they mainly inhabited the little sister island. And if you ever experience the bites of the no-see-ums that are on the main island you would agree.

Walking around Bonacca is like a test of directional navigation, it is not large, but set out like a winding maze of alleyways and water ways through and around the buildings. Supply boat day is the day to shop and the island is busy with the men using carts to deliver the goods and shoppers getting supplies while they last. 

Earthquake

One morning I arose around 6:30 or so, went into the head, just sat on the toilet when….. The whole boat sounded like it was hit by something. There was a rumbling sound and a sensation of a shaking. I went as fast as possible to the cockpit to see what the heck had happened …… there was nothing there. I was really puzzled, what had happened?

A while later I heard from a fellow cruiser that they had felt it and thought it was an earthquake. Sure enough when John awake and looked online he found it was a quake, not far from us, under the sea.

 Pelican Walk

Our last venture was to walk the shoreline from the anchorage to the other small settlement at Pelican Walk. This was a really fun walk.

We started following small pathways along the shoreline, past homes and abandoned buildings, sometimes even through a property. The pathway then climbed up at slope and continued along a shelf of a steep hillside above the water, one slip and on the rocks below you’d find yourself. 

Once down the path we were at the beginning of the settlement. Along Pelican walk we passed homes on the seaward side standing on stilts, guessing to avoid the bugs.

On the landward side we saw children and youths in uniform having left a school on the hillside.

We stopped to chat to folks and continued to what we think was the end as we could not continue any further without passing through gates.

On the way back we stopped along the pathway amongst some mangroves to chat to a fellow. Within all of 2 minutes we were slaughtered by the no-see-ums. 

Guanaja really is a beautiful, unspoiled treasure which I would happily visit again.

A Guanaja sunset

Go back? He thought. No, good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go! – JRR Tolkien

Like all explorers, we are drawn to discover what’s  waiting  out there without knowing yet if we have the courage to face it. – Pema Chodron

PHOTO ALBUM—>>.   https://photos.app.goo.gl/ds5NAzBHHvwyyVJG9

We arranged for us to go back to West End to meet up with Carol and Derick for a few days of snorkeling and such.

So off we left from Jonesville Bight using a strong westerly wind for a very swift sail through rough seas to West Bay. As it turned out Derick and Carol never ventured out that day as it was so rough and windy, but arrived the following day in nearly equally windy easterly winds.

West End

After we arrived we enjoyed a swim in the bay that was protected by the reef. However with the wind blowing into the bay we had some real rocking and rolling through the night. 

Another big reason for getting to West Bay was to get cash, groceries and laundry done. So first off we dropped off the laundry then we got a taxi to Elden’s to do a restocking. With chores out of the way we had a few fun days with Derick and Carol. We enjoyed a lovely lunch at a local restaurant and an evening together on Aeeshah catching up with news of mutual friends.

Walking to West End Bay

Off we set in the morning to walk the entire beach and waterside from West End “town” to the West Bay at the very end.

It is shady in the morning as it faces west and the scenery is lovely in the morning light. Plus the fun parts are scrambling over the rocks and trying to avoid getting wet feet. Past resorts some shuttered, some very modern all very well maintained with raked beaches. About two thirds of the way there you find a bridge that goes over a private boat canal. As the bridge is quite tall it affords quite a good view of the bay.

After the bridge you cut through various smallest  resorts along a small broad walk and then there you are at West Bay the hub of tourism.

This beach is just dedicated to making the average cruise ship passenger happy. It is enjoyable strolling along looking at everything on offer.

Derick was checking out the fly fishing opportunities, stopping every so often to watch the fish, or so he said. We had a grand time. 

Snorkeling was another fun afternoon. The reefs there are just lovely and the water very clear. Unfortunately I forgot to load my card in my go-pro so no photos that time

Off to Port Royal area

At the Eastern end of Roatan are a couple of very large bays: Old Port Royal and Port Royal. After them there are a few islands too, but we were bound for the bays. Our choice of anchorage was actually a mooring buoy off of Mango Creek Resort.

We did as usual and ran our own check to make sure it was secure and then doubled up with lines to the chain too. The other bonus of being off the resort and paying for a mooring is security. There is security both day and night. We could tell they checked us at night by the light that would regularly sweep across the boat. In such a lonely area this is very comforting.

This lovely resort is only accessible by water and when we arrived it was “shut” as the owners were away. However the friendly staff let us wander around and stretch our legs.

The large, manicured grounds were enjoyable to wander around, plus there were trails leading up into the highlands above – next time we will walk them. 

Dinghy trips around the bays

We spent each day we were in the anchorage traveling by dinghy to the far reaches of each bay. In the bay we were in we travelled to the end of Lime Cay Bight

where we found a trail at Conch Cay Point.

Following this we walked a distance along the shoreline – never saw another person, however there were some fancy homes looking down on us. 

Around Jenning’s Point and into Port Royal

we travelled the shoreline, again there were a few homes, some derelict, some for sale and a couple seemed occupied, but nobody about. The majority of the slopes were forested and we had planned to find a trail or 2, but everywhere looked very overgrown and bush hacking was not for us.

At Fort Cay where the old British fort is located we were unable to go ashore as it was posted private. 

The Cow and Calf islands are lovely rugged outposts where the water was crystal clear.

From Port Royal again in the dinghy we were able to pass through a canal into Old Port Royal.

This again is a massive bay however with even fewer signs of habitation.

There was a dredger that looked to be stored at the end of the bay and a very interesting looking wreck on the reefs.

A number of water taxis were crossing the bay taking folks to the next canal that actually leads to the very end of the island, the other side and the next island. We wanted to explore it , but felt it was time to move on. So we were off again ….

The flower is aware of the fact that it contains everything within it, the whole cosmos, and it does not try to become something else. – Thich Nhat Hanh

Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius