Aeeshah

PHOTO ALBUM:—>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNGo9CyxncHrA1zeA

March was and is a month that brought terrible news.

First there was the news that our Granddaughter Lily was dreadfully ill. Meanwhile the pandemic that is plaguing the world and threatens everyone everywhere. It was a tragic month, totally out of our control, just depressing.

However, life for us, this month in Belize has continued at much the same pace. We have moved from cay to lagoon, to cay, we swam, snorkeled and between worry we enjoyed our outdoor life.

In early March we finally left our base in Placencia with the plan of heading north. All stocked up, first stop was Sapodilla Lagoon. Here we intended to shelter from the next northerly cold front and explore new territory. 

The lagoon proved to be the ideal shelter, we left a rolly, windy anchorage and arrived to a flat calm, peaceful, sanctuary. While there we did have some nasty squalls but they really didn’t affect us. 

We dinghied into the new Marina which is found on the very inside – sort of like a lagoon within a lagoon. There we found the new Marina to be a wonderful, with everything one would need, a gas station, small store, laundry etc.

At present the whole set up, Marina and housing on 14,000 acres is in some sort of “trouble” or receivership. Once and if it gets sorted the place hopefully becomes successful. The homes we saw were very large, grand, and mostly unfinished, but still had workers building.

The beach club again was quite amazing with a pool and bar plus a restaurant and beach cabanas. However it is only open for weekends. The staff were all very nice, hard at work keeping the place immaculate with hopes of guests one day. Now, the whole place is shut due to Convid 19.

South Water Cay

After Sapodilla Lagoon, we headed out to South Water Cay, keeping within wifi range, for any news of Lily.

South Water Cay is a small isle with a few small “resorts,” a bar and restaurant dive facility and such. The tourists are brought out in the locals launchers aka fast boats, from the mainland, either to stay or for the day. 

At South Water Cay we snorkeled the beautiful waters and walked the cay. The snorkeling is still just wonderful, the water so incredibly clear as there is a cut in the barrier reef, from the outside leading inside.

The reef is very alive with many varieties of corals and fish, you never know what you might see. Of course it is best snorkeling there when the seas are calmer.

Placencia again!

After a few days we headed back to Placencia, still awaiting news of Lily, and now to provision with a goodly stock of supplies due to the threat of Corona virus’s possible arrival and quarantine. No, it was not in Belize, at that time. Coincidentally there were a few other boats headed towards Placencia, and looking at the AIS John could see they were basically racing back – speeds of 7 kts or so…..was a Tsunami headed towards us? We just kept on with our steady sailing speed of 5knots. Once anchored we saw the same boats were already headed back towards Guatemala.

We guessed they were racing for the border before it closed in 2 days, so they would not be held in Belize. We decided not to race back to the Rio Dulce, as the others had done, but to hold up here in Belize. We had till April 5th for our visas and then we could renew our visas till May 5th. However, since then we have learned we can renew as long as necessary, Belize is allowing us to remain here. So Belize it is until, well who knows, hopefully we return to the Rio by July. This was our plan anyway, we had hoped to sail to Roatan, but we will probably have to give it a skip. 

Days in Placencia followed the same basic routine: up with the sun, breakfast, surf the net, go ashore and walk. The route being usually walking along down the famous longest sidewalk in the world. It runs behind the beach, well really, between the beach and small businesses, homes and guest accommodations.

Normally the sidewalk has a few persons out walking, but not now, it was more or less deserted. At the end of the sidewalk we turn to walk down the roadway back to the village, stopping on our way to buy our supplies.

The baker for our baked goods, the fruit and veg stand and a small shop or two. Then we would haul all our bounty back to the dinghy and back to the boat. It took us 3 daily trips to stock up, not horde, all that we needed for another few weeks away from civilization. 

All resupplied we headed back out with the plan of sailing to Glovers and Lighthouse – 2 atolls off shore. First stop was at the Pelican Cays again. There we made water and had a very nice evening. Last time we had been there with Gail and Pete, now poor Gail is in the USA recovering from her broken neck – she’s called a walking miracle! 

From there we sailed to South Water Cay with the idea of heading onwards the following day. But, that was not to be as Lily had to be medic-vacated out of Bermuda to Boston Children’s Hospital, she was in critical condition. John and I were besides ourselves with worry, but could do nothing. By this time most counties had closed their borders, there is now nowhere to leave the boat and it is too dangerous to travel. Plus, what good would any of that do to help the situation. So, we decided to stay within wifi range. We now hoist one phone up the mast and use it as a hot spot for our data. 

South Water Cay

Once again at South Water we went snorkeling, in the cut that leads from the ocean inside. And then at the small cay on the other side – Carrie Cay.

The snorkeling was once again wonderful. At Carrie Cay I saw a shark, this time I believe it was a nurse shark. Plus a huge hermit crab living in a conch shell. This cay is a research station for the barrier reef in Belize.

Tobacco Cay

The next stop was Tobacco Cay. This is another small isle with coconut trees, and colourful cabanas for tourists to stay. Here we anchored up and set out to dinghy around plus snorkel. The shallows inside the reef were lovely, there were many rays to be seen and the reef along the edge was out of the water, so we hoped to walk along it. 

Again at Tobacco Cay there is a cut between the island and the reef so that the open sea flows in. We anchored in the shallow sands off the island by the cut and then snorkeled the cut.

The snorkeling was magnificent! There were excellent corals, many fish of all different types, just so much to see. In the deeper waters of the cut tarpons both large and small were idling in the current with schools of bait fish and eagle rays were soaring around.

It really was wonderful! I saw 4 different types of rays and a while flounder atop of a piece of brain coral.

We never went ashore as we could see the docks were tied off to discourage us.

We had friends aboard that evening and enjoyed each other’s company.

Tobacco Range

The next day we needed to head to Tobacco Range as the wind was up and the anchorage is open to the blowing 25kts plus winds. Now Tobacco Range is totally different, it is a group of mangrove cays. We had to carefully make our way in as there were brown bars and thin waters. In the anchorage all was sheltered and peaceful.

The next morning we went in the dinghy to a small bird sanctuary about a mile and a half away. There we saw hundreds of Frigate Birds – Man of War Birds, nesting and soaring in the skies. I love Frigate Birds, they are wonderful to watch soaring above in the skies, just effortlessly “floating” across and with the wind currents.

They are large birds with a wind span of about 6 feet and a long forked tail so their shape is in harmony with their movement across the skies, they cannot swim so while being water birds they rely on swooping down to catch their food with their beaks.

The male frigates puff out their red throats to attract the females, quiet an awesome sight! Frigate birds tend to steal food from the other sea birds and often we see them in a dispute over such. This colony of birds was huge, but their little island appears to be disappearing into the rising seas. Why do they just nest there? I am guessing its cause they always have……

From the Frigate bird colony we decided to explore the mangroves. Again we found many birds of differing types, plus some frigate birds that had fledged.

The mangrove cays in this area are huge with only a few fishing “camps” where solitary men could be seen. It looks to be an incredibly quiet and simple way of life, not sure if many folks could live like that, but the men gave a friendly wave and appear happy. 

We then moved back to South Water Cay for a few days, mainly for a change of scenery. And back to Placencia to restock……

“Life … is about not knowing, having to change, taking the moment and making the best of it, without knowing what’s going to happen next. Delicious ambiguity.” —  Gilda Radner

“Finding a problem’s solution is what gives life its gusto.” – Martha Beck

PHOTO ALBUM LINK–>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/eKXnCzAELKB56gJEA

Preparations:

Straight from dropping Chrissie and Quest at the airport we headed to the Litegua bus depot. The bus ride back to the Rio was as usual, 6 hours of almost complete boredom. 

Once back at Catamaran Marina we made haste getting Aeeshah ready for her trip down river and onto Belize.

A very good detailer – Carlos, with a few friends saw to the outside cleaning and polishing. John and I scrubbed covers, reorganized, stocked up with necessities and made ready to leave. 

Off we go:

February 4th, We set off to Texas Bay from the afternoon and night. When leaving Gillian noted that more marina folks were there to say goodbye to Chico, yes, he had once again made many good human friends. He is loved!

Cayo Caymado aka Texas Bay 

At Texas Bay we anchored on the outside to try and get some breeze, wifi and to avoid the bugs. Looking at the small islands nearby I could see and hear dozens of birds squawking and roosting in the tops of the mangroves.

We set out to explore. Finding that one island had a small wooden “dock,” we tied up and saw a sign proclaiming it as a small sanctuary. 

The pathways looked newly cleared and led right around the island. In the tree tops there were dozens and dozens of cormorants and herons nesting, squawking, flapping their wings and feeding.

Sadly there were also those chicks that had fallen from the nests, the vultures were enjoying them. Across the path ran a huge iguana while in the reeds herons were fishing for dinner. The isle was full of life!

We cruised in the dinghy around a few other isles which seemed to have diseased mangroves still clinging to life with birds gallantly roosting and nesting in their bare tree tops. 

We followed up by a meander around Texas Bay and the surrounding canals, it is always very scenic, just lovely!

Texas’s Mike’s

That evening there was such a beautiful sunset after which we met our friends off Puddle-jumper ashore for dinner at Texas Mike’s. It was a fun evening catching up with old friends. My burger was great and Mike had his usual offerings of smokes for those that chose to indulge.

Down the river:

Bright and early we set off down river.

Oh how beautiful the early morning light in the misty mountains. Then the fantastic scenery of our down river cruise was such a treat,

watching all the birds, the locals in their canoes, and gazing up at the magnificent tree covered canyon walls. Just a wonderful journey! Chico just loves bird watching….

Over the bar

In Livingstone our agent was awaiting our arrival. Along with Bill and Mara, off of Puddle-jumper we handed our passports over to our agent and then set off to wander the lanes of Livingstone. After having a poke around and buying a few pastries and tangerines, we  were back picking up our exit documents. 

Then, it was the bar to face at 16:00hrs. Questions of –  Was the tide going to be high enough? Had the bar shifted? Were our waypoints correct? Only one way to know and that was to set off across the bar. Well, the wind was blowing into the river causing waves of about 2 foot or so, but this was helpful as it would give Aeeshah a lift. The sea grew thinner and thinner under our keel, it reached 0.5, 0.2, and bump, bump, 0.0 no water the keel bumps along. The waves would come, and we would move/shift ahead, then bump, bump on the soft bottom, and up ahead, bump, bump, until finally we were beginning to move off the bar and gain a few inches under the keel. We were over, and off to Tres Puntas. 

We crossed the Gulf of Honduras to Tres Puntas where there would be a safe anchorage for the night, unfortunately the course was into the wind. Soooo, it took longer and was uncomfortable, with sea and wind on the bow but we sloughed through and arrived just as it was getting dark. Down went the anchor and we were set for our first night out of the Rio Dulce.

Punta Gorda, Belize

Bright and early we left for Punta Gorda in Belize to check in. We had never  check into Belize at this port and hoped it would be easier than the normal Big Creek entrance port. Of the boats heading to check in we were the last to arrive, and low and behold just as they all finished up so did we, and yes, it was easier at Punta Gorda. 

Our No Name stop

We headed out and found an anchorage at a small Caye called No Name which was in the Moho Cayos group. This was good shelter for the night, but to no-see- ums were dreadful. Despite being well off shore the little nasties managed to fly out and plague us. 

Placencia

Our next stop was Placencia. We are very familiar with Placencia having visited many times. Yolli’s Bar allows cruisers to use their dock to access the shore.

This is where we usually go ashore and walk to the village. At Yolli’s we were greeted by one and all and welcomed back.

While in Placencia we met up with many friends we had known for sometime.  Don and Pam whom we met in Brunswick, told us about the Arts Festival that was taking place the next day, so we arranged to meet up. In the afternoon a tall ship arrived and anchored in the anchorage.

We found out it was the Fredrick Chopin, a Polish training ship and it was in to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Poland re-attaining its  sea port. 

The Arts Market

The Arts Market was interesting and enjoyable to walk through. Set up along the “longest sidewalk” in the world, which runs between the beach and the village’s shops and homes, were the many venders.

Most of the venders had come from different parts of Belize with their different goods. There was the usual hand crafted jewelry, wood carving, textiles and such, but there was also some different wares for example turmeric paste that came from a local farm. Along with our friends we wandered through, enjoyed a light lunch at a French Patisserie and bought very little, just the turmeric paste.

 Fredrick Chopin

The following day some other friends, Sabrina and Tom, invited us to go with them on board the Polish tall ship, we went along and again had an interesting time. It was quite tricky climbing over all the dinghies and then up the side of the ship, but I did it.

There were tours in which the young “trainees” showed us around. It turned out that the ship takes teens between 15 – 18, but they did have a 14 and 19 year old too.

The students have school on board, run the ships watches, help with all the cleaning, cooking navigation etc, in other words they work to learn.

Each group are on board for 3 months, this group had started out in Martinique, sailed to Belize, we’re going to Jamaica and back to Martinique. We enjoyed our tour.

Ranguana Cayo

Pam and Don on Rainbows End sailed along with us to the outer Caye of Ranguana. There we spent a few days enjoying the isle.

It has a small restaurant and caterers to its day visitors, but also to the boats that stop. For 2 days we would snorkel, go ashore for a nice lunch under the palm trees,

relax under the palms, snorkel and return weary but satisfied to our boats. It made for a very pleasant change. 

Back to Placencia 

We headed as another front was expected to blow through the region. In Placencia there were quite a number of friends to catch up with, most we had known for years. We arranged to all go ashore to Yolli’s for a few drinks and then to Paradise Hotel’s restaurant for a meal together. We all had a wonderful evening, stories were shared and much laughing was enjoyed by all. The dinner was excellent too.

Mayflower Bocawina national Park

A day trip to the nearby wildlife reserve was suggested by Bill and Mara off Puddle-jumper. They are friends we have had since 2012 when we met in the Bahamas. Bill hired a car, which we shared, and we drove to to Mayflower Bocawina national Park.

Once reaching the entrance you drive a further 18k to the “actual” entrance, passing fields and fields of citrus. This reserve offered numerous hikes to waterfalls, viewpoints and sites. We first followed a birdwatching pathway, seeing a few birds but hearing many. 

Then we set off on one of the waterfall hikes. The pathway itself was through thick jungle so shaded, but hot with little breeze. It was an enjoyable hike, we did see birds and many lovely flowers. What I really liked was where it was really very, steep there were guide ropes to hang onto. Usually one has to risk life and limb to get up and down steep, slippery slopes. 

The waterfall itself was wonderful! We had planned to all swim, but I could not stay, standing on the rocks mid stream I was bitten numerous times by a small black fly type bug. The stings felt like tableau stings and my lower legs and ankles were on fire.

I set off back down the track to wait for the others. When they finally emerged from the trail we set off for lunch. Yes, I was still complaining, my legs were very uncomfortable, the other also had bites, but they seemed not to affect them as badly.

Lunch was at the reserves restaurant and was excellent. To drink they had water that was infused with cilantro and lime, a very subtle taste but amazingly refreshing.

We had intended to hike after lunch, but settled for exploring the surrounding gardens, which are very lovely. We also drove down the rest of the parks roads, well tracks, just to see what was there. 

Hopkins village

On our return journey we stopped at Hopkins, a small village. The sea front was a beach that was attractive, next to where we parked was a bar, which was very Caribbean looking, parked outside an old Enfield bike. 

It looked to me like a relic from a WWII movie, and it was obviously still being used. The guys, Bill and John struck up a conversation with a  rasta from the bar, he told them that the guy sleeping in a tent on the beach had arrived on it, he had originally left from Alaska! Meanwhile I was nursing my legs, yes, they were still itching and on fire.

Off to pelican Cays

Our next excursion aboard Aeeshah was off to Pelican Cays for a few days of exploring and snorkeling. When we arrived we found that the area is very deep, 30 – 60 feet except where the reef is found. What we opted to do was, instead of anchoring we picked up one of the few moorings on offer.

There is a family that live on one of the cays, Hideaway Cay. They have a small dwelling a restaurant and bar. The moorings belong to them and for a fee you can use them. We never usually have a mooring so it was quite a luxury for us.

On our first day at Pelican Cays we snorkeled, had a lunch break and then snorkeled again. We actually covered the entire reef along the bay and along the adjoining island. The reef was quite lovely, lots of corals, sea fans, and juvenile fish. On our first snorkel I saw a huge Porcupine fish, I only managed to set a quick shot of “her” before she streaked off. Of course there were the usual barracuda lurking in the background. 

During our lunch break friends, Gail and Pete on Pega came into our anchorage.

During the second snorkel the depth was deeper and the reef more spread out. The corals were larger and this time I saw 2 sharks. The first one, about 4 foot in length, came around a reef, saw me and left. Then five or so minutes later there was a smaller one, I figured it was later in the afternoon and they were coming out to feed. I also noted these were not Nurse sharks, they were darker and had a thrasher type tail. I’ve since been told they were reef sharks, but I think they were Lemon sharks or Sand bar sharks.

That evening we went ashore to the Hideaway for dinner. The buildings and wooden structures that are on stilts over the mangrove mud. The walkways too are wooden and on stilts. The place is very nicely set up and the owners very friendly. We were joined by Gail and Pete for dinner. The evening was wonderful and the food delicious. They offer fish, conch, shrimp and lobster when in season. I had the fish. The couple who set up home at Hideaway are Americans and they have a 7 year old daughter. A very peaceful life, but for me perhaps too quiet.

Placencia

Back to Placencia we went as another norther aka cold front was coming. This one lasted several days, brought strong winds and rain, but we were fine, the anchor held, just a few restless hours of “sleep”. Most folks had gone to Sapodilla Lagoon to shelter, so it was nice and empty in the mooring field.

Gail and Pete had gone to the lagoon. It was her birthday and she wanted to horse ride there at the equestrian center. Unfortunately, I received the news from her that she was thrown at a gallop from the back of her horse and got a broken neck, c5,6 were fractured. She was in Belize hospital, in traction, immobilized, just terrible news.

In Placencia we did our usual laundry, shopping and catching up with friends awaiting to renew our visas. 

At the height of laughter, the universe is flung into a kaleidoscope of new possibilities.”

—  Jean Houston

PHOTO ALBUMS LINKS: —>> 1st Chrissie and Quest visit Rio Dulce the Copan Honduras

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LAt1hwK4aDw26Ka19

2nd Visiting Antigua and Lake Atitlan with Chrissie and Quest

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pHnUJLVPQGNzRJ657

Travel to Guatemala

On the 2nd of January we set off on the morning flight to Miami with Chrissie and Quest. There we stayed for the afternoon and night to get some needed shopping and to break the trip up for Quest. The next day we flew into Guatemala City and stayed overnight ready to get the Litegua bus to Rio Dulce.

Chrissie was dreading the 6 hours on the bus with 2 year old Quest. We arrived at the bus just before 9:00, thinking it left at 9:30 only to find out we had just enough time to board as it left at 9:00am. The best part was we didn’t have to get on the little bus out of the city and then transfer to the big bus – I hadn’t warned Chrissie about that one.

The bus ride with Quest went remarkably well, he looked at his shows and games on his kiddy iPad, had a nap and was chatting with other passengers. At the halfway stop we ate a quick lunch, Quest enjoying the local food, and stocked up on drink and snacks for the last leg.

Rio Dulce

On arriving at Fronteras we had friends awaiting to help with all the luggage. Steve, the dock master, Gillian and Gordon, so that before we knew it we were on Sledgehammer heading across the river towards Catamaran Hotel and Marina, our home on the river.

Chrissie was staying in Tango, which is a lovely cabana just down the dock from us. Once we arrived there were more friends to greet us and introductions made plus Chico to hug and love.

We planned to enjoy the Rio Dulce for a week including doing a trip down river in the boat, but the weather did not cooperate. Instead, we stayed dockside and had a relaxing time around the area. Quest really loved the Catamaran pool which became the afternoon place to be. We walked through Fronteras several times letting Chrissie get a taste of the real Guatemala. The sights and sounds of the street, the hustle and bustle of everyday life on the Rio. 

On the Friday Chrissie had a relaxing Mayan massage at Catamaran while we took Quest into town then on a tuk-tuk ride across the bridge. Well we found his first addiction, that being tuk-tuk rides and oh what a fuss when we had to get out.

At the other side of the bridge we walked back over the bridge. Here he had a great view of all the massive trucks crossing.

Next stop was the fish market where he checked out the crabs and the locals made a huge fuss over him. They just Loved his looks, his hair especially and as they love children the ladies and young girls had to hold him and kiss him. Quest has been christened Colacho – curly.

Copan Ruinis Honduras

After a week we said goodbye to the Rio Dulce and off we went to Copan Ruinis Honduras. We arranged for a private driver to pick us up at Backpackers Hostel at 10:00am. He drove us the near 5 hours, stopping at the border and deposited us safely at our hotel, Buena Vista. Quest was napping through most of the trip, but unfortunately as we crossed the border he became ill all over his clothes. Chrissie also felt sick from the bends in the mountain roads.

Hotel Buena Vista

We were very happy to arrive, Chrissie to see a pool for Quest and her room next to ours. We had a wonderful view being at the top of a hill overlooking the town.

And down to the town we went to stretch our legs. We enjoyed a walk around and stopped into an eatery for a bite to eat – nachos, guacamole, salsa and such.

After our venture into the village Quest enjoyed the pool. Despite the water being very chilly he had a blast.

Mayan ruins

Our 1st day was spent touring the Mayan ruins. We had a guide who tried to explain as much as he was able, but keeping an eye on a two year old meant not all of us could listen, so we sort of played tag teams, run after Quest and listening, plus photo taking.

It was a very interesting site which again covers a huge area much of which has yet to be uncovered. 

Discovered in 1570 by Diego García de Palacio, Copán is one of the more important archeological sites of the Mayan civilization.

The remains of the city and the large formal public squares reveal the three main periods of its development, before the city was abandoned at the beginning of the ninth century A.D.

The Plaza of the Hieroglyphic Staircase has a monumental staircase, one of the exceptional structures of the Mayan culture. On the 10-meter-wide steps, there are more than 1,250 individual glyphs, which constitute the longest known Mayan inscription. After the city was abandoned, it was swallowed by the jungle which helped its conservation.

After all our above ground exploration we went into the underground tunnels and remains. I must say it was darn hot down there!!

To get to and from the site we got a tuk-tuk and again Quest was totally absorbed by the ride and did not want to get out. After his nap we spent the afternoon by the pool which was quite chilly, but he loved it regardless.

Horse riding

On our second day Chrissie and I went horse riding for the morning, while Papa stayed with Quest. We had a wonderful ride. The guide took us out of the town and followed the track alongside the river.

Then up the hillside following a narrow pathway. I was the lead horse which the guide followed and kept tapping her flanks to encourage her to move on. Chrissie was at the rear.

We passed though a small village and then stopped at a Mayan religious site. It was an area for fertility, which was blessed by the shaman with a stone shaped like a frog behind which was one of a crocodile where the women gave birth. Apparently the birthing area is still used by the Mayans!!

Our next stop was at a vista – a lookout over the river and opposite mountainside. It was very pretty and interesting as we could see much of the way we had come. From there we left the horses and walked uphill to a small guest house – Buena Vista, where again Chrissie and I went to a lookout from a yoga platform and then had a very refreshing hibiscus drink.  

And the Red Macaws were in the trees above us! After which we remounted and rode at a quicker pace, sometimes trotting back to our starting point.

It was a fun morning. Papa John had kept Quest entertained by letting him play with other children in the village square.

Red Macaw Mountain

Our last day in Copan we visited the Red Macaw Mountain. This is a sanctuary dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of the red macaws and other birds from this region. They have been quite successful as you do now see red macaws that now live and breed in the surrounding mountains, flying in the skies.

Again we went via tuk-tuk so Quest was thrilled, just sitting trancelike as we drove along. It was very enjoyable wandering around the sanctuary and seeing the birds. The setting was on a forested hillside and the pathways meandered down to a river, along its banks past the cages and then up again to the start point. It was a very pleasant morning.

After our Red Macaw mountain morning we stopped in the town for a wonderful lunch! I believe the place was called The Twisted Parrot.

A couple of our evenings we walked down to the village and around the square, Quest would enjoy running around and then we would go to a restaurant Carnitas for dinner. There the waitresses bring everything to your table balanced on their heads. And as it turned out Quest loved Guatemala cuisine.

Plus the meat is cooked on an open fire tended to by an older lady. The decor is rustic with many interesting artifacts, the food excellent and it was a pleasant way to pass the evening.

Off to Antigua our hellish ride

Our transport to Antigua was to be a shuttle, due to arrive at 12:00. We were ready and waiting, waiting and waiting. John went down to the village to see the operators, he was told there was a hold up at the border, but the shuttle would be along soon. Well after a few other trips to the village, us all pretty fed up, Quest really just past his threshold of tiredness and hunger, at nearly 3:00pm our driver showed up! No explanation, not diddly squat, the only good part was we were the only travelers, there were supposed to be 15 of us. So we loaded up, he drove through the village, stopped, picked up a friend who hopped in front and finally we were off. But oh, what a drive! They talked and talked, passing their phones showing each other girly pics, laughing, driving soooo slowly, it was agonizing. The drive took nearly 6 hours, which should have been 4 hours, but at least we got to our Airbnb safely. 

Cassa Barbara

The view from our roof top patio was stunning!

Our Airbnb in Antigua was a delightful place right in the town, just a few blocks away from everything. When we arrived our hosts were there waiting for us, which was very kind of them as it was such a late arrival. We all were exhausted and promptly went to bed.

Around Antigua

Our first day in Antigua was spent having a wonderful breakfast at one of our favorite haunts and then a walk around showing Chrissie the main square, the artisans market, some of the ruins and churches.

Antigua is a wonderful old city with amazing architecture. Everywhere I look I see a picture to take, from the door knockers to the locals wandering around selling their wares.

Another morning we walked to the cross on the hill Cerro de la Cruz means Hill of the Cross—but this attraction is far more than a cross constructed during the colonial era…..

From here you have a wonderful view across the old city below. We were able to see Fuego smoking away in the distance. 

Most afternoons Quest would nap, Chrissie rested and John and I walked around the town, buying supplies or just getting exercise.

Then when Quest awakened we would walk to the main square where Quest would run around, play with the local children and get endless attention from the Mayan ladies. They just all stared and pointed at Quest, taking photos like he was a celebrity from a TV show….and why?

Well his curly hair and blue blue eyes, they would touch and stroke his hair, want to cuddle him, and called him: colocho which means curly headed fellow in Spanish. Quest was oblivious at first, he just wanted to play, but then he started to enjoy the attention by saying hola, and holding out his hand for high fives. “Hola Colacho”

The Saturday market

On our last day in Antigua being a Saturday we went to the local market. I just love markets they are so colourful in every which way, with every type of merchandise imaginable.

Chrissie at first was intrigued but as the morning wore on she found it claustrophobic, too many people, too little space, too much noise and she needed to escape. We had been there for a good while and she had been able to make a few purchases. I just love markets!

Off to Lake Atitlan

Our transport to Lake Atitlan was made through a travel agent that I had dealings with before, an excellent company – Rainbow Travels. Our driver arrived on time, spoke some English, and had a very nice mini bus.

He said that he would take us the scenic route which avoids the Pan American Highway which in some areas of the northbound side is in terrible disrepair with huge potholes where the road has cracked and recessed. I was delighted because we had not travelled this route before and the scenery was lovely. Chrissie not so happy as the bending mountain roads make her nauseous. We stopped above Lake Atitlan for the view, which as always was stunning. 

Villa Amor

Upon reaching Panajchel we easily found our new Airbnb. It was a lovely cottage with a very nice big garden. The groundskeeper was awaiting our arrival and handed over the keys after which we headed out to lunch.

Our lunch was not the best, but the child venders that stopped at our table to watch Quest’s iPad were, they ended up selling Quest a wooden toy helicopter plus a red bracelet, which appeared on his arm like magic. 

Chrissie had a case of travelers tummy on her first morning so John, Quest and I went for a walk about around Panajachel while she rested giving the antibiotics time to do their magic – I am sure the previous lunch was the cause.

San Marcus

By the afternoon she was feeling up to our first venture across the lake. We took a public launcha to San Marcus. The ride was a bit lumpy as it was a windy day, but the scenery was beautiful.

Oh, and public rides stop at all the stops between so we saw the places between. In San Marcus we walked the narrow lanes, checking out a few stores and the lovely murals.

Then we hopped in a tuk-tuk, much to Quest’s delight, and rode all the way to San Juan passing through San Pablo Along the way. The “road” mainly followed the shoreline and was extremely bumpy with huge potholes, but Quest just loved the ride.

San Juan

At our destination San Juan we were dropped off near the village square and walked towards the lovely church at the top of hill.

This village has many wonderful murals on it walls, plus many stores selling beautiful paintings, the artwork is just stunning. As promised to Quest we stopped and he got a treat of wonderful cake and some soda from one of the small cafes.

By then it was late afternoon and we arrived at the dock just in time to catch one of the last launchas back across the lake. The bad news was we were motoring right into the wind and waves and with it being late afternoon it was very windy and quite chilly.

Being seated at the front of the launcha – one bench in front of us John had to help to hold up a sheet of plastic to try to shelter us from the wind and spray from the lake. It was one rough ride back taking over an hour so that the sun had set by the time we were back. It was however a fun filled afternoon.

Climbing San Pedro volcano

John was off early the next morning to climb the massive volcano San Pedro. The 3 of us spent the morning exploring different streets, lanes, shops and stalls Chrissie was especially interested in bags with a certain fabric design and hammocks for her home. Back at the house Quest had a nap and we planned to head off after, but at about 1:30 John arrived back. 

He had arrived at his destination at 7am, headed off with a few young Europeans and a guide, had a tough scenic hike up the slopes of San Pedro, only to be stopped half an hour or so from the top. There were bandits on the slopes and nobody could continue. Poor John was very disappointed, the whole group were ticked off as there had been no warning of this. So anyway he had returned hours early.

Tuk-tuk to San Antonio Palopo

Therefore, John arrived just in time to go with us on our afternoon adventure. Off we went we hired a tuk-tuk for our travels, Chrissie had had enough of rough launcha rides, plus Quest just adored the tuk-tuk experience.

Our driver 1st drove us to San Antonio Palopo dropping us near the church on the hill over looking the Lake.

There we looked at the view and met a villager who acted as our guide. She took us 1st to the pottery. There we were shown the method they use for making their pottery. 1 was using a clay and another was using chalk. We then saw the glazed pottery and the finished work which is gorgeous.

Both Chrissie and I bought a few items, it was difficult to select as everything was beautiful.

From there we walked to the weavers where again we were told how the threads are spun, dyed with all natural plant based dyes, for instance orange comes from carrots, purple from a purple flower. We were told the phases of the moon affect the tone of the dye. There a were two methods used for weaving, the Spanish loom, introduced by the Spanish and the back strap which is purely Mayan. The designs are amazing, the fabrics incredibly beautiful!

Oh!, surprise surprise the ladies and children loved Quest!! Colacho!! We were asked to do a chocolate tour, but our driver awaited our return. 

Santa Catarina

So it was then back the way we came but stopping at Santa Catarina. This village is know for its beautiful geometric designs painted on its buildings. We strolled about and down to the waterfront enjoying the view of the lake.

After which we were back in our tuk-tuk, our driver stopped on the way back for us to enjoy the mirador – view point above the lake, such a beautiful lake.

San Pedro

On our last day in the Lake Atitlan region was a lovely calm sunny day so we took advantage and got a launcha to the village of San Pedro.

This village sits at the base of the San Pedro volcano and was where John started his volcano hike. We wandered around part of the village seeing the view of Indian nose across the lake. It is a busy, busy tourist hub. There are numerous tun-tuks, vendors and tourists. The lanes are narrow and busy. Again there are lovely murals, which I found to be more political in their messages.

Quest was not feeling in the mood for much sight seeing and so we went to a small cafe and had carrot cake and a refreshing drink.

Back across the lake we headed, Quest for a nap, John to babysit while Chrissie and I did a bit of tourist shopping. Chrissie got her hammock and bag and I bought a magnificent bed spread.

Guatemala City

Our next stop was Guatemala City. We had the same driver take us to our hotel Reforma Suites arriving after a fast 2 hour drive. After checking in and having lunch we set off for Chrissie and I to have our hair done and John and Quest to “enjoy” the Oakland mall. Apparently Quest had a blast playing with the various “toys” in one of the play areas. Chrissie and I enjoyed being pampered.

On our last day we started off at the Central plaza, having a look around and then to the central market. From there we stopped at at few stores and finally back to our hotel. 

In Chrissie’s words:

Mine and Quest’s trip to Guatemala just after the New Year in one word was ‘epic’!

I was at first apprehensive about the journey, traveling with a 2yr old is always uncertain. However Quest was the best little traveler, turns out he does great with multiple, flights, long bus rides, taxis, water ferry’s and long layovers…. way better than me, anyway.

I was blown away with Guatemala’s beauty, and the friendliness of the locals. Quest turned out to be a bit of a rockstar, everyone wanting to take pictures of him and touch him…. he was in his glory.

Quest especially loved all and anything to do with Tuk-tuks, his almost daily rides turned out to be the highlight of his trip.

Oh and….

Both mom and dad were the best hosts a non speaking Spanish gal could ask for!! They really went above and beyond organizing a real trip of a lifetime. However I am not eager to go on anymore long bus rides for a very long time.

Bright and early the next morning Chrissie and Quest flew out of Guatemala to Miami and Bermuda. John and I got a Lituegua bus back to Aeeshah and Chico at Catamaran Island, Rio Dulce.

In the end nothing we do or say in this lifetime will matter as much as the way we have loved one another. – Daphne Rose Kingma

Mere colour unspoiled by meaning, and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a thousand different ways. – Oscar Wilde

PHOTO ALBUM HERE–>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wB8PnZK9bddP83hZ7

Zaculeu

We left Huehuetenango a day early as we had decided to spend an extra day at Lake Atitlan. Our first stop on our return journey was another Mayan site, Zaculeu pronounced Saqulew.

I had read that Zaculeu is a pre-Columbian Maya archaeological site and was the capital of the Mam, one of the main highland tribes before the Spanish conquest, the same peoples as we saw in Todos Santos.

The site contains several large temples, plazas and a ball court. Apparently the Mam called their capital Chinabajul. The K’iche conquerors changed the name to Zaculeu, meaning “White Earth” which refers to the white limestone plaster used by the Mam on all their buildings.

The K’iche’ rebuilt over earlier Mam structures in a distinctively K’iche’ style. When the Spanish showed up in 1525 the K’iche’ were still the dominant force in the highlands.

This site was interesting as many of the buildings had been “restored” and we were able to see clearly the shape and also allowed to climb up a number of them. The view from Zaculeu was lovely, looking right across the forested slopes. 

Back on the CA1 we basically reversed our journey from a few days previously again passing the busy areas around Quetzaltenango and the quieter farmland areas. Stopping after a few hours for a break and refreshments then ploughing on towards Lake Atitlan.

Upon reaching Panajachel we crossed the little bridge to the settlement on the other side and then had to navigate down and along incredibly narrow lanes.

Finally after a number of false turns finding our newest Airbnb, we then nearly had to bend the car in half to fit it in the gate. This Airbnb was further out of the town but absolutely lovely with everything anyone would need. 

Walking to Santa Catarina and then onto San Antonio Palopo

Walking between the villages around the shoreline became our mantra for the next few days. Our 1st walk was from where we were staying to Santa Catarina and then onto San Antonio Palopo. We actually started off by walking into Panajachel where we had a delicious breakfast. 

Breakfast finished and we headed off towards Santa Catarina. We weren’t far along when we discovered that a little white dog was following us. He was actually one of the many strays that seemed to hang about near the bridge in Panajachel.

The lane was lovely, shaded in areas, with wonderful views across the lake.

There were hills to climb up and down, but as the weather was cooler there it was very a comfortable walking temperature. 

At our first town Santa Catarina we admired the colourful buildings and again the views across the lake. 

This town has made a real effort to encourage tourists to visit by painting their buildings in the colors and designs that represent their Mayan heritage – the textiles they weave.

The results are just wonderful! Previously it had been a rainy dull day when we visited, this day was bright and sunny so the colors really stood out! Hey, even the graveyard was painted!

Soon we were off and on towards our second village San Antonio Palopo, still the little dog followed, this was with no encouragement from us. The views were stunning and the roadway itself was very pretty.

We could see all the farming on the terraced slopes and folks out on the lake fishing. There was virtually no traffic and the trees shaded us making the walk very comfortable.

On the outskirts of this village we went inside a pottery shop and admired the pottery, bought a few items and all the while the little dog waited for us.

Further along we went into a textile shop where the lady showed us her looms and explained how the threads are all dyed from natural materials, many plant based.

She then kindly called a tuktuk driver for us and we climbed aboard while the little white dog was being friendly with some other folks we drove away. The tuktuk took us back to Panajachel by which time it was afternoon.

We had walked about 10 miles and had a wonderful day. I still wonder what became of the little white dog…. 

Walking from San Marcus to San Juan La Laguna 

The following day we had decided to catch a public launcha to San Marcos, and head out from there. We were fortunate that a launcha was just ready to leave when we got to the dockside.

San Marcus has a reputation for its incredible natural beauty, tranquility, and magical atmosphere and it is known as being the holistic, health-conscious and spiritual centre and the “hippie” town on the lake.

Once at San Marcos we had a brief look around as we walked the few lanes towards the exit lane. I really admired the murals, there were many very colourful murals on the walls of the alleyways.

This is definitely a village to visit again. Upon reaching the lane out of the village we could see that the actual road was closed due to roadworks so no wonder the village was so quiet. This lane really did need upgrading as it was subsiding due to all the runoff from the mountainside.

However the scenery was lovely, steep slopes and wonderful views across the lake.

Further along we could see the farming taking place along the lakes shores, again they had various different crops planted. We also passed coffee trees on the slopes that had coffee beans ready for picking.

The first village we passed through was San Pablo La Laguna. It was set back further from the shore, more up on the slope of the mountain and obviously didn’t have the same tourist visitors. This looked to be very much a village for the locals. 

On further our lane was above the lakeside and again the views were lovely looking down on the small farming communities.

The fields were a patchwork of differing crops, we could see workers out amongst the fields some picking and gathering, some weeding and others digging.

We reached the entrance to the village of San Juan La Laguna, marked by a statue at the entrance.

Here we followed the little lanes towards the center and up the lanes towards the church at the top. We enjoyed the view from the top looking across at the view and looking inside the old church.

The church doors were impressively carved.

The Tz’utujil inhabitants obviously take pride in their craft traditions – particularly the paintings and weaving. The various murals depicting different aspects of Tz’utujil life and legend were wonderful.

They have also formed cooperatives of coffee growers, fishermen, organic farmers, natural dyers and weavers to help the whole community profit. We wandered off along the lanes enjoying the atmosphere of the village and all the wonderful crafts for sale.

Our lunch spot, the Rostro Maya Restaurante offered us a wonderful view across the lake and the food was very good.

We were going to walk to the next village, but could see the clouds were dropping and rain was on its way.

So we went and got a launcha back, just as well too as the rain fell and the skies clouded over. We covered about 8 miles that day, a bit less than before.

The following day was a dull rainy day, so we walked the lakeshore and in and about in Panajachel enjoying the sights and sounds. Even beautiful Lake Atitlan has dreary days.

We drove back to Guatemala City to the airport, returned the car and then went to our regular hotel.

We had enjoyed our holiday in the mountains and we’re ready to return to boat-work.

People have the right to think and say whatever they want to. But you have the right not to take it to heart and not to react. – Dr. Phil

Not one drop of my self-worth depends on your acceptance of me. – Quincy Jones

PHOTO ALBUM —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/UdtqvrheGQrbKRch7

The road trip begins: 

After weeks of being in the Rio Dulce area, putting up with the incessant heat and regular routine I felt it was time for a trip to the mountains. We had said we would do a bike trip, but again this idea was rejected, you can’t take much with you on a bike, but in a car you can. Some friends had expressed an interest in our trip and so we asked if they were still interested. In the end there were 3 couples Chris and Caroline; Hattie and Phill and us who set off on the Litegua bus for Antigua one Sunday morning. 

We arrived at a very nice Airbnb, just outside of Antigua and settled in. 

Off for a stroll around and to find a place to have dinner we all went. We finally settled on a pub type of cuisine for our meal. There are just so many nice places to eat in Antigua.

Antigua

The following day John and Chris set off to pick up a hire car at Guatemala City airport, Hattie and Phill to explore Antigua and Caroline and myself to make our arrangements, get tourist info and book a Pacaya Volcano hike for the following day. 

We were very successful finding the main tourist information office and then the Rainbow Travel Agency. We got loads of information plus booked our trip to the volcano. John and Chris were very successful too, arriving in Antigua with our hire car in the early afternoon. Hattie and Phill too saw a good bit of the Antigua area. 

Iglesia La Merced

During the afternoon we walked around enjoying a few of the sites. We visited Iglesia La Merced and its ruins. This church was first established as a male monastery and Mercedarians were the first religious order to have a men’s convent in Guatemala.

The church was almost finished when hot water erupted from Agua Volcano and came rushing down destroying much in its path. The church was rebuilt, and the ruins of the monastery remain. The water fountain found in the courtyard was designed as a waterlily.

We enjoyed the view from the roof, of the old monastery, explored the cooperative market where dozens of crafts are for sale for just so little

and had a lovely chai in a coffee shop.

It was John’s birthday and I had found an Indian restaurant for dinner. We all went out and had a lovely dinner of curry!

Hattie and Phill had a small cake for John’s dessert.

Pacaya volcano

Our volcano trip arrangements were that we were to be on the road in front of a nearby hotel before 6:00am, so we all were up bright and early out and walking to the nearby hotel by 5:40 just as it was getting light. We arrived in plenty of time and proceeded to wait, and wait.

We watched the volcano Fuete spew out hot ash, people pass by on their way to work and the increasing traffic drive past. Just as we were phoning the Rainbow travel agency our driver showed up. He had had a flat tire, even had the tire with him which he dropped off at the nearby service station. Next we whizzed around Antigua picking up the others on the trip and then we were flying down roads and lanes to get to Pacaya volcano. 

Pacaya stands at a whopping 8,373 feet tall and the trek has an elevation gain of around 1,500 feet. Pacaya is described as an active complex volcano. It first erupted approximately 23,000 years ago and has erupted at least 23 times since the Spanish invasion of Guatemala.

The hike starts at the welcome center in the hamlet of San Francisco de Sales and takes about 2 hours to hike to the top. At the start the walkers are offered hiking sticks, which to me would be a must have.

There were two options to either climb or ride a horse up the volcano. John, Hattie and Phill chose to climb, Chris, Caroline and myself to ride the horses. We were presented with our mounts and guides then with the challenge of getting into the saddle.

Up the pathways we went following the walkers, stopping at rest points where the guide would point out different points of interest. John reported it was a moderate climb, but with the altitude of over 8,000 feet made it a bit more challenging.

The pathway up starts off up a shaded but well groomed path where at some stages stones have been laid to form steps. I was surprised the horses were good on stairs, but then doing them everyday would make them pros. We came to an area where there was more and more volcanic rock and loose volcanic gravel, the trees gave way to an open landscape where we could see the black slopes of the volcano.

At a fence we demounted and were pointed to where to go. From here it was a climb in the loose volcanic rock and gravel up to where we were to cook marshmallows over the heat of the volcano. Now through the soles of my hiking sandals I could feel the heat coming through the rocks.

The loose lava rocks are actually somewhat slippery as they do slide as you walk upwards. There were plants that tolerated the heat and able to grow.

Plus there were dogs who were roaming around looking for scrapes of marshmallows to eat. 

We awaited our turns to roast the marshmallows, finally my turn came and bending to the roasting area I could feel the increase of heat. The marshmallows took no time to melt and then I was back with the others eating the gooey melted mallow. (Some folks were toasting cheese sandwiches too)

After a wander around we were down to where we started. Then it was back in the saddle for the ride down.

Going down was definitely harder as l had to lean back and most of the time and my horse liked to take a small jump when going down drops and steps, but it was enjoyable, always fun to ride a horse.

We were back in Antigua in early afternoon where we got off the bus with Hattie and Phill and had a lovely lunch at a favorite cafe. Then it was off to buy supplies for our up-coming journey into the mountains. That evening we enjoyed an evening in our Airbnb eating a dinner of chicken wings and salad.

In the morning John drove Hattie and Phill to the car rental office. There they were picking up their vehicle and had decided to drive to the Pacific Ocean.

Iximché ruins

Off towards Lake Atitlan we – Caroline, Chris and us two -travelled the next morning stopping along the way at the Iximché ruins. These are well preserved and are located on a hilltop in the higher and cooler Sierra Mountains. The site’s surrounding scenery is lovely with steep slopes and pine trees.

The ruins of Iximché are actually late Post-Classic Maya. The “city” was ruled by the Kaqchikel from the 12 – 15th century and was the ancient capital of the Maya Kakchiquel Indians, Guatemala’s first capital for “The Kingdom of Goathemala.” 

This is a wonderful Mayan site and as it was earlier in the morning it was not at all crowded. We all enjoyed wandering around. The architecture here includes a number of pyramid-temples, palaces and two Mesoamerican ball-courts. At the time of the Spanish conquest Iximche, was the second most important city in the Guatemalan Highlands. Iximché was burned in 1526 by Spanish. 

Mayan rituals are still performed at this site on important occasions and we found that there was indeed a religious ceremony being practiced at the area where such ceremony’s are still conducted. 

As for what the ceremony was I am not at all sure. The mound where the ceremony’s take place had many crevices with candles burning and small offerings that varied from food items to flowers. In fact there were 3 different groups celebrating there.

One group with a shaman was directly in front using a large fire pit, candles, flowers and petals, and various other items. To their side another group that were not so traditionally dressed were starting a ceremony at another smaller fire pit, while behind there was a shaman and 2 ladies in traditional dress smoking something from these huge pipes. They constantly sat still, almost trancelike inhaling and exhaling, just staring ahead at the mound. It all was fascinating, we watched for a good while.

We made a stop before descending to Solola and Panajachel at a small local eatery and had a delicious local meal.

As it was afternoon the clouds were descending upon the lake so the magnificent view was hidden from us. We arrived in Panajachel and then took a while to find our newest Airbnb.

This one was just a few streets out of the center and so quite convenient. It was inside a gated group of homes with a nice garden, a roof top patio and very comfortable kitchen, lounge and kitchen we all were happy. 

John and I went out and walked around to see what we could see and enjoy the early evening. Lake Atitlan is absolutely beautiful!

Every moment is an invitation to live out of your weakness or to live out of your strength. – Marianne Williamson

Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius