Aeeshah

 

 

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Chiapas, Mexico

Puerto Chiapas is the southernmost port on Mexico’s Pacific coast, the closest port to the Guatemalan border, was our entry port into Mexico. It is relatively new port, built in 1975, and is the primary hub from which the region’s agricultural goods.

We chugged down the channel leading to the Chiapas marina. Along the way we saw the massive commercial fishing boats along the port’s dock.

Chiapas marina

Soon after arriving we were visited by differing departments of the government. We had the Port Captain,

the Navy, the Agricultural department and customs.

By the time they had all visited and finished it was later in the afternoon. I still hadn’t eaten lunch, nor had we set up the boat. The Agricultural guy was the worse.

He was stuck on Chico, fixated on the documentation. He took photos of every page of Chico’s passport and then wanted to know why there wasn’t evidence of flea and worm medication for every month! In the end I just shrugged my shoulders. He then took a black bag and filled it with frozen chicken, mince beef, plus fruit like tangerines and limes, all from our fridge and freezer. 

The next day we spent literally hours in the marina office. More hours going to the officials in the nearby town, Puerto Madero, admittedly we were with a couple from Denmark who were checking in off of a schooner Neptun that had 11 volunteers from all over the world aboard. 

Finally the following day, day 3 we finished off by being taken to the Port Captain’s office where we spent several hours awaiting whatever paper they needed to finalize. Mexico has a terrific amount of BS buracrocy. Finally we were free.

We had filled in the time while awaiting the Mexican authorities by taking a few walks around the marina. There was the typical boatyard, boring to me, interesting for John. 

There was a small peninsular that leads down the side of the entrance chanel. From there we could see the locals fishing on the mud flats across the channel and the distant dock of Puerto Madero.

 While walking along this path I did spy several pairs of beautiful blue birds. I later found out they were Black Throated Magpie Jays. These were of interest to me, but of little interest to John.

We also enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the marina restaurant Baos. The food was excellent. 

Tapachula

Tapachula, the closest city to the marina is the second-largest city in the state of Chiapas. It is a brilliant place to stock up with absolutely everything and anything needed.

On our forth day, being free on of buerocrats we got a taxi into the city. The previous night there had been a terrific amount of rain. John caught 5ins in our rain gauge.

Anyway, our taxi had caught rain too, our back seat and backsides were quite wet. We drove through deep puddles on our way in. You had to laugh it was just so funny like riding in a car down river. 

The grocery store was in a massive mall and it was incredibly big. Neither of us had ever see a grocery store as big before and with such low prices. Consequently we were 2 hours in that 1 store just navigating our way around and selecting our purchases. 

We were very pleased at what we could find. This might be as Tapachula and its suburbs are very multicultural, having benefitted over the last 150 years by Japanese, Chinese, and German immigration.

While at the marina we used the same driver several times. His taxi might leak, but he was a really good sport driving us where ever, waiting for us and with reasonable rates.

Chico’ friends

Chico, well what a cat he is…. He saw all the young folk off of the sailing vessel Neptun…..especially all the young ladies AND every day morning and night he would charge off of Aeeshah and flop at their feet. He wanted a belly rub and to be adored by the lovely humans AND the young ladies obliged. One laid down on the dock with him as she feltl he was nearly as big as was….

Then off he goes and makes friends with Irene and the baby, plus the cats and dog off of another cruiser’s boat. In the end everyone, cats included were adoring him daily. He was one happy cat. 

Playa Linda

We were looking for a place to walk as there isn’t much area around our marina. And Playa Linda, we were told, is located a few miles from the marina.

The road leading to Playa Linda is straight, narrow from over growth and in the over growth there are mounds of trash. We walked, but with traffic skimming past, stinky trash and steaming heat we flagged down a ride.

The ride was in a type of tuk-tuk, really similar, but a bike towing a trolley to sit in. We’ve now found that they are auto rigshaws, Tuk-tuks otherwise known as bicitaxis, ciclotaxis, golfitaxis or tricitaxis and they are great fun to ride.

Arriving at Playa Linda we walked across the sands towards the ocean and found a steeply sloping beach with rough seas.

Unfortunately there was quite a bit of trash along with the drift wood, just the way of things now. Enjoying the beach for a short stretch we returned to the road, again the heat was terrific.

After buying a lovely cool drink in a tienda we returned to the marina on the front of a bicitaxi. 

 

 

 

 

 

Cruisers Thanks Giving

Several of the cruisers at the marina sent out an invitation to one and all for a Thanksgiving get together at the pool and barbecue area.

Everyone came and brought food. Two turkeys were barbecued to pefrection, the side dishes were all wonderful and dessert excellent. We all enjoyed each other’s company for the afternoon and evening.

A day out site seeing

Paul and Coleen, a couple we had previously met in Nicaragua, invited us to go on an outing with a local guide Miguel. Of course we jumped at the opportunity! 

Miguel picked us up at 8:00 am, he had instructed us not to eat any breakfast as we were going to be fed well. 

Off we drove, along the way Miguel told us about the area we were in, that there was enough arable flat land for cattle, and to grow massive crops of mangoes, corn, sugar cane and so many banana plantations that Chiquita has two of its own huge branded cranes in the port for the weekly freighter load that leaves for the US and Canada.

Also that there is enough water that the dams in Chiapas provide 55% of all of Mexico’s hydroelectric power. 

Further along, passing the unusual looking church/temple with the copper dome in Tapuchula, he stopped for me to take a pic and told us it was run by a religious group similar to the Mormon faith.

Stopping alongside a second church we were told this was the María Candelaria church, built in 1808, still an important church for the area. 

We turned out of the city and were soon at what looked like a farm, which was the site of:

Izapa 

The archaeological site of Izapa, which dates back to 1500 BC. Thus making it as old as the oldest confirmed Olmec sites. 

The theory is that when the Olmec people arrived here, indigenous people already lived in the area, instead of fighting them the Olmec people intermarried and traded knowledge with them, giving rise to what we know as the Mayan culture.

We walked around the differing areas of the site while Miguel explained all about the different stone relics. It was very enlightening hearing about the early indigenous folks.

Izapa was really the template for the great Mayan cities that followed. The understanding is that it was here that the very stratified Maya class structure was perfected, the language created, the shape of buildings and cities designed. 

We learned that the “stepped” pyramids were used to reinforce the class structure; when gatherings were held, the highest classes stood or sat on the highest levels, and each level closer to, the ground held a lower class, with slaves relegated to the ground at the very base.

The remains of a stelae shows a prone worshipper, facing in the direction of the nearby volcano, which was revered as a god. You can see the soles of the feet and the statue’s backside.

On other stones stories are carved depicting again the beliefs of the time. 

There was even proof of aqueducts being used and large stones with wells to hold the water.

Miguel showed us the fruit of one tree that was used as the dye for red. 

Further along the road we came to examples of the Mayan numerals from 1 – 20 and a statue celebrating their solar beliefs. 

By this time 11:30ish, I think we all were starving. And so were ever so grateful to move along and arrive at:

Chocolate experience

This was a regular Cassa in what is called Chocolate town. A town that is world famous for its chocolate production.

Inside the cassa was a very colourful front reception area where we met some of the family. One of the ladies was making chocolate blocks. 

Next we passed through the kitchen area where our host was making our meal. We watched her make the torllias on the hot flour covered grill.

Across from her the tamales were being put together for our meal.

Passing along we came to the lovely garden area where we were to have our brunch. 

Once, seated at the table we were served hot chocolate, tamales were wonderful, delicious.  Stuffed with cheese, chicken, an olive, an egg, a prune inside a type of cornbread that were wrapped in a special leaf.

The side dishes were mole, which is a black bean purée, chili salsa, fresh cheese, and cooked plantains. The cheese and plantains were actually to be eaten together and were a delicious blend. The tamales too were excellent! (John and I had been a bit septicel after I once opened a tamale in Guatemala and found a chicken’s foot.) 

Tamales actually originate in Mexico:

“Tamales are part of Mexico’s national identity along with tacos. They’ve been part of Mexican culture since pre-Hispanic times; however, they not only have a cultural significance but a religious one too. In pre-Hispanic times, Mesoamerican cultures used tamales as offerings to gods or to their dead loved ones”

“To traditional Christian believers, each tamale can be considered a metaphor or symbol for the Holy Virgin. After all, every real Mexican tamale must have an olive in it. On one level, that olive represents the Christ child waiting to be born — as he is every year at Christmas”

After our fun and enjoyable meal we were treated to the chocolate making process that many generations of the familiy’s women had followed. The lady showing us the process had twice been to Europe due to her excellent chocolate making!

We were shown the coca trees, flowers and fruit, presented with the coca fruit to eat. Which is excellent tasting.

Next the rest of the fruit was made into a wonderful drink for us. And then we were shown the steps for chocolate making:

1st steps

Roast coca beans, remove the husks.

Next steps

Grind the inside to a paste, roll the paste into disks, and lastly add any other ingredients eg: sugar, cimmonen, etc

It was a wonderful lunch and presentation. 

Lunch/visit to Puerto Madero

Off to Puerto Madero we went with a few friends to have a look at the town and enjoy lunch. The restaurant was right off the sea front and very rustic.

The food was wonderful and the company was fun. After lunch we had a quick look around the small town.

It reminded both of us of Guatemala, not surprising as Guatemala is just 14 miles away.

And then it was time to move on, the Tehuantepec winds were laying down, subsiding for a day and we could cross the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

“It’s in our chasing that dream that we become the people we only dream of.”

— Sanya Richards-Ross

 

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Cerro Verde

It was magnificent weather when we drove to Cerro Verde for the day. We set off early, still the massive roadworks near Sonate held us up. They look to be rebuilding a huge portion of the road and it appears to be an enormous job entailing countless workers and tons of heavy equipment.

Lake Coatepeque

Our first stop along the way was an overlook that was above Lake Coatepeque. The view was stunning! 

Lake Coatepeque is a large crater lake surrounded by wooded hills in western El Salvador. The nearby El Congo is its gateway village. In the lake’s southwest corner is Teopán Island, once a sacred site for the ancient Maya. 

Onwards uphill we drove, finally arriving at the final turn, only to find a road blocked by visitor buses and school busses. Luckily the buses soon squeezed past and we were able to drive into the Cero Verde Parque. 

Cerro Verde National, Park Parque Nacional Los Volcanoes

Also known as Cerro Verde National Park, is a large national park. The park includes three volcanoes: Santa Anna, Izalco and Cerro Verde.

The view looking across to the volcanos was amazing!

One of the best views I have ever had of volcanos and the surrounding countryside.

In fact you could see all the way across to the Pacific Ocean. You could spend hours just gazing out. Enjoying the view.

Off we ventured around the various pathways through the gardens. The main attraction of this park is Cerro Verde itself. This is known as a”cloud or mist hill”.

Along the way, we found interpretive trails from where we could see the biodiversity of flora and fauna that is found in the area.

John really would have liked to do a hike, but no one is allowed to just hike. You must be in an organized group with a qualified guide or stick to the trails. 

We headed to Cassa 1800 the park’s hotel and restaurant which looks out over the volcano Izalco and on the other side over Lake Coatepeque from further above. 

We could look out at the volcano Izalco from a different angle. Once again the views were totally captivating, just stunning! 

Having lunch in the Cassa 1800 Restaurant we were seated where we could look right out at the Izalco Volcano. Sure enough we saw vapor/steam clouds billowing from the volcanoes inside crater. Yes, it is still very active. 

Izalco aka Ilamatepec

is an active stratovolcano, located at the side of the Santa Ana volcano aka Ilamatepec.

 Izalco erupted almost continuously from 1770, (when it formed), to 1958 and then had a further eruption in 1966. This volcano earned it the nickname of “Lighthouse of the Pacific” as ships would use its glow for navigation. During one eruption in 1926, the village of Matazano was buried and 56 people were killed. Today, Izalco experiences only fumarolic activity in the form of rainwater seeping into the volcano and contacting hot rocks, rather than steam emissions from underground gases.

Lunch was wonderful, and as we ate we watched the afternoon clouds moving in and gathering around Izalco. An absolutely breathtaking place to visit. 

Herradura food festival

Friends from the anchorage mentioned to John about a food festival at Herradura. This festival was in the colourful town just 3 miles up river. So off we went in the dinghy to have a look and enjoy lunch.

The plaza on the waterside where it was taking place was full of folks mainly sitting and eating. Our friends were seated at the main area and we joined them.

Our lunch was our regular favorite, the whole fried fish. There were ladies carrying baskets full of snacks, nuts, sweetened coconut and other candied fruits on their heads. We did purchase several to take back with us. 

Pupusas 

After eating we walked around some and decided to purchase a few pupusas for dinner. They happened to be shrimp.

Now pupusas are the national dish of El Salvador. They are basically a thick tortilla stuffed with meat, beans and cheese and grilled over high heat with very little fat. Both John and I haven’t been overly impressed with them. The ones we had for dinner were stuffed with small shrimp. However the shrimp still had their shells still on. Plus there was cheese and vegetable matter in them too. No, not impressive at all.

Beaches, boat prep, and more

Our beach walks continued with the occurrence of low tides. We both absolutely loved those beach walks.

The birds, crabs, shells, flotsam,

reflections

and sand patterns were always impressive. 

John made sure everything was ready for our passage to Mexico. He was up the mast, checking sails and rigging, testing this and that, changing oil, and all those important maintenance chores.

We went out to anchor at the end of October, so it wasn’t as convenient to go for our walks, but for me it was a relief to be away from the mosquitoes. At anchor in the middle of the river meant far fewer bugs and lots more breeze.

I was busy repairing canvases, making new fender covers, getting rid of anything we didn’t need and more. The time flew by. 

 As it happened the International Bill fishing completion was starting and the marina wanted all of the possible slips for the big fishing boats.

It was a week long event with lots of food drinks and prizes for all who attended. John went in one evening and met up with the other fellow cruisers.

Driving around San Vicente 

Our final tour that we took ourselves on was to drive to the middle area of El Salvador near the San Vicente volcano, also known as Chichontepec or Las Chiches.

This was the volcano that we could see in the distance from the boat. It is the second highest volcano in El Salvador. In the indigenous language Nanhaut, Chichontepec means the mountain of the two breasts, because its double summit resembles a woman’s bosom. Each summit has a crater.

San Vincente town

Our first stop was the town of San Vincente. There we hoped to walk around to see the Torre Vicentina, placed in the centre of San Vicente, it is one best known symbols of the city. However we found that the town center is under restoration and mostly fenced off.

We did walk around the main square, called the Antonio José Cañas Park and we were able to look inside San Vicente Cathedral. Plus we saw Tempisque tree, which is where the city was founded by 50 Spanish families in 1635.

Off we went to drive to some of the nearby towns and villages that are famous for their candy making. The famous local sweets are made from fruits such as sweet potato, coconut, tamarind, nance, cashew, plus others.

We found several lovely villages and drove by wonderful scenery. The San Vicente volcano in the background was magnificent. On its side we could see a thermal plant surrounded by farmers crops. 

We stopped and purchased some of the sweets made locally. There were dozens to choose from.

Lastly, we stopped to purchase some locally grown fruits. It was a very pleasant day out.

Meeting Friends at Beto’s

Our friends Wayne and Liz were in El Salvador to visit Liz’s Mom for her 90th Birthday. They suggested that we all meet at Beto’s for lunch. Bento’s is located just past Libertad aka Surf City on the cliff side over looking the Pacific.

It was wonderful meeting up, catching up and having lunch together.

The scenery was stunning, Liz’s Mom was so young for 90 years of age. She told me that she keeps active, walks everyday and enjoys life. 

The food was excellent! And so much choice, plus it was presented like a piece of art.

Goodbye El Salvador

On Friday the 15th November John checked out at 9:00am as instructed. By 1:00pm we were met by the pilot boat and Bill. Next we headed out to the bar. 

And it was a rough but safe crossing that took a lot of engine power to plough into the surf over the bar. The shallowest we saw was 7 foot under the keel, so more or less 13feet. 

Behind us the weather was worsening, black clouds, wind picking up and sea conditions were rough along with a conflicting swell and waves. Consequently, the rest of the afternoon and evening were ugly! We had seas smashing onto the deck and hard top of Aeeshah. Never had we ever had such rough conditions. Sea water literally smashed into the forward cockpit cover, poured under and down below. 

The rain hammered down, we heard thunder, saw flashes but could tell it was a few miles off. It was simply awful but we had no choice but to continue.

 I had to just suck it up and we toughed it out. I managed to hold out till 9:00pm and then I was finished, just feeling dreadful. Poor John had to be on watch all night till just after 5am when I could function again. The conditions improved through the night and by day it was back to calmer seas, not much wind, as usual in along this coast, overcast skies which kept us cooler than usual. 

We have a rain gauge and when John checked it we had caught 2 inches of rain from the down pours. And Bill sent a message that back at his place, where we had left from, they caught 6 inches of rain.

I believe all of this was caused by tropical storm Sara on the Caribbean coast messing up the regular stability of the region. 

We arrived, and began the checking in process.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.

“Wherever we want to go, we’ll go. That’s what a ship is, you know. It’s not just a keel and a hull and a deck and sails. That’s what a ship needs. But what a ship is, what it really is, is freedom.”

 

 

 

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Herradura

Is the closest town to where we are located at Bahia de Sol Marina. To get there by car is 40 kilometers, by dinghy it is just over 3 miles. We had intended to visit the town on several occasions but either the river was flowing too strongly or the tide would be out and so the town docks would be difficult to access. Finally the perfect day came and we were off up the river to visit Herradura. 

We found the town dock easily accessible and even had a fellow there to watch the dinghy. Right at the top of the dock steps we found a large courtyard with many different eateries. There was mainly seafood on offer, probably because Herradura has a fishing fleet. 

The streets were wonderfully colourful, with many murals on the walls of shops. There was just so much to see…. We wandered all the way through the town.

I just loved the atmosphere of the place. Even the church was nicely decorated and then there were little shrines along the road, guessing it’s quite a religious town. Folks were very friendly to us, going about their business, selling goods, buying what they needed, but noticing us strangers.

It was reminiscent of Fronteras in Rio Dulce, busy, with tons to see, narrow streets and smells of foods. 

We found the market which was a treat. I just adore markets and this one is a very good one with plenty of produce. There were also many differing types of merchandise. 

Yes, we were impressed with Herradura

Low tide walks

We had a week of extremely low tides, in fact the lowest for this year. And importantly they were during the morning hours. We took advantage for the low tides and do some wonderful walks.

In fact… our routine became, beach walk, boat chores, sunset relaxation, sleep, and up and all over again.

I just so love the reflections. 

And the amazing artwork left by the sand and the water as it receded.

Plus the effects of the tidal sand pools with the clouds reflected in them. 

We did walk energetically down towards the distant 15 kilometers of beach stretching away from us. I did do my exercises for my duff knee. And John has taken to jogging off and then catching up with me later.

The only downside is the incredible heat! It really has been very hot and with the darker sands the heat is retained. On the plus side there is always a sea breeze to cool one off.

Puerta de Diablo again

Another car rental, at $25 a day it’s so worth renting a car to travel about. We do our shopping and chores one day and then play the other day. This time we did a 3 day rental. 

We had set off early in order to beat the clouds and when we arrived 2 hours later we were not disappointed.

This time around we were able to walk downhill to the Devil’s door. Once there we were at first the only visitors. We spent time admiring the view gazing out over the forested slopes to the distant town. Above us we could see the zip line riders, zipping from one side to the other of the twin peaks. And the Eagles soaring in the thermals between and above the peaks. 

We again climbed up the central peak which is quite a steep rugged climb. With my duff knee I was quite pleased with myself.

From this central peak we also had a magnificent view of the slopes below and to both sides. It really was very beautiful on this a sunny day. However in the distance we could see the clouds forming ready to cover the peaks for the afternoon. 

Now why is the area known as the Devil’s Door?

Legend has it that during the time of the colonists, the daughter of one of the landowners of Los Planes de Renderos , María de La Paz who was very beautiful, was courted by Satan himself.  

The evil devil kept her locked in one of the famous caves that are found in the area. However, nobody knows if she was found alive or if she was rescued by her father. Only a scapular, bone, that María wore around her neck on the day she was kidnapped was found.

Her father, Rosendo Renderos (the name of the canton where it is located), determined not to leave her in the clutches of Satan, went in pursuit of him when night fell. Satan , harassed by all the landowner’s tenants, fled across the mountains and knocked down part of them with one blow.

According to mythology, due to the arch shape that the strong blow carved in the mountain range, it was called the “Devil’s Gate.”

After our visit we happened upon

another delightful restaurantwhere we had a wonderful traditional El Salvadorian lunch.

Ruta de Flors

The drive from Bahia Del Sol to the city takes about an hour and a half, from there we headed towards a town called Sonsonate which marks the beginning of the Ruta de Flors. However between San Salvador and Sonsonate there are horrible roadworks that stretch for several miles, and there is no other route. So getting to the beginning of the Ruta de Flors took us several hours. Till finally we were off of the major road and onto lovely country roads winding up and through the mountains.

Nahuizalco

This lovely village is known for its wicker and wood handicrafts. We chose to drive through looking at the wicker handicrafts from the car as they were displayed on the side of the road. The work looked excellent.

Salcoatitan

 Salcoatitán is famous for its ceiba tree. This impressive tree is more than 350 years old and located on a small square at the entrance of the village.

The ceiba tree played an important role during Mayan times. The Maya saw this tree as an important connection between the underworld, the present and the upper world.

The Ceiba’s roots in Xibalbá, (the underworld), the base of its trunk placed where the humans live sometimes referred to as Kab, earth, and the trunk and branches the dwellings of the Gods and the entrance to the heavens.

 This town is also best known as the coffee town. Although coffee is grown all over the ruta. When we stoped at a view point it was next to coffee and above coffee being grown.

Steep slopes covered in coffee bushes which were all covered in green ripening coffee berries.

Juayua

Juayua is a small and quiet village, located in the mountains along the Ruta de las Flores. In the native Nahuatl language Juayua means: Place of the purple orchid. We never did see a purple orchid, but we did see lovely crimson flowers in the hedges along the roadside.

Apaneca

This village is located at an altitude of almost 1500 meters, which meant it was pleasantly cool at last. 

Concepción de Ataco

Ataco is the nicest villages of La Ruta de las Flores. This was our destination, we parked and headed off to walk the village.

The streets were cobbled and lined with colorful little stores selling absolutely everything. There was a large plaza with a church at one end.

Cute restaurants, more shops and lots of colorful street art. Yes, wonderful street art, murals everywhere!

The street art is what had me captivated.

We had lunch at a very nice cafe right off the plaza where we could watch the village folk.

And then we were off for another walk around the village admiring the street art. Until finally it was time to head back to Bahia del Sol.

And then there was a village we passed through on our return journey which had many different old fashioned trains on display. 

(Ataco is located 45 minutes from the border of Guatemala – Las Chinamas)

Botanical Gardens

Was another site for us to visit on another shopping excursion. Found In the middle of the big city San Salvador, nestled in a volcanic crater, it is an oasis of huge trees, beautiful vegetation and many birds. 

We arrived, parked, entered and began our exploration of the gardens. There are over 3,300 different plant species in the area. It was said to be an impressive collection of plants and flowers from around the world. 

We wandered around and found  plants are arranged according to their types, including medicinal plants, desert plants, ferns, orchids, and more. Each plant collection was labeled with family, common, and scientific names, as well as their distribution. 

There were aquatic plants, desert plants, begonias, bromeliads, medicinal plants, and orchids. The site is also home to assorted woodland animals. 

Historically, the crater at the garden’s location once held a lagoon for many centuries. However, a volcanic eruption at the end of the 18th century transformed it into a semi-marshy area. An earthquake in 1873 drained most of the area, turning it into fertile land, which was later used for livestock farming and eventually became part of a private garden featuring centuries-old trees and exotic plants.

In the 1960s and 1970s, an industrial complex was constructed on part of the area, and the private garden was handed over to a private association for management and conservation. The La Laguna Botanical Garden was officially opened to the public on December 22, 1978. 

We enjoyed our time wandering around the gardens. My favorite were the exotic flowers blooming from the trunk of their parent tree.

Plus the very colorful iguanas and the very sweet woodland deer.

“And that,” said Bean,” is why loosing is a much more powerful teacher than winning.” – Orson Scott Card

Life doesn’t get easier or more forgiving, we get stronger and more resilient. – Steve Maraboil

 

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Back in El Salvador

Our plane arrived in El Salvador at 10:30am.  Don and Andy met us at the airport in a rental car. They suggested we drive back via Libertad where we could have lunch and a look around. This suited us so we packed our luggage into the car and off we drove.

Libertad aka Surf city

is situated on the coast of El Salvador. It used to be an important port, but now is an important fishing town. It is also renowned for its surf and surfing and to the El Salvadorians as a fun holiday town with great sea food restaurants. 

After a half hour drive from the airport we arrived in Libertad and were lucky to secure a parking bay along the shore front. I say lucky as it was so busy. As it was Sunday the town was packed with local holiday makers.

We walked a stretch of the front and chose to eat at one of the smaller, less crowded restaurants food was amazing! Fresh seafood – grilled spicy shrimp with rice and salad. 

Afterwards we walked along the shoreline, looking out at the beach. I don’t think I would want to swim there. On the way back we walked through the fish market and passed the fishing fleet.

The fish drying on the sides of the boats plus the fresh catch were all being sold. Many of the fish being sold we weren’t familiar with. 

The streets of Libertad were very busy, plus many were under construction so we were not able to wander far. John and I decided to return another day.

Off to Mac Donald’s

Don and Andy stayed a further day on Aeeshah and so we all set off in the dinghy to have lunch in the MacDonalds on stilts.

Once again the lunch was fabulous. I took a risk and ordered the Pescado entero a la Parrilla, they all ordered the Camarones a la Parrilla. My grilled fish was INCREDIBLE! Just so well cooked and flavorful. There was so much of it I was able to give everyone a sample. 

City to shop, Libertad again and along the shoreline

When we need supplies, major groceries we drive into the city to a large grocery store and stock up. Plus we take advantage of being able to rent a car for only $25 day and go for a day of touring too. 

Beyond Libertad

This time, for our tour day, we decided to return to Libertad, and to continue along the coast road to see where it led. 

Unfortunately the day was gray and a bit rainy, off we went anyway. We found the shoreline changes to cliffs and rugged rocky stretches with very dark black beaches attractive in its own way.

The road winds along tree covered and shady with tunnels that cut through the cliffs. We stopped for a walk on a beach and a look around, again I found it difficult to love the black sand beaches. 

We also stopped for lunch at a small restaurant that literally hangs over a cliff.

The food was excellent. Once again I ordered the same grilled fish, (cooked over an open wood fire), so did John. It was wonderful!

Boat chores, beach walks, John’s recovery

Most days have been filled with early morning beach walks followed by boat chores. The beach in front of the hotel is immense. It is wide, especially so during low tide and it is 15 kilometers long.

We cut through the hotel grounds which extend  from the river where the marina is located across the road all the way to the beach on the other side. Watch the Macaws for a spell….

Then we have a choose to turn to our left and the river mouth or to the right and 15 kilometers….

Our favorite time is low tide, the sand is firm and I enjoy picking up the shells. I limit myself to only the perfect ones that I don’t have. Otherwise I would be laden with 100s. 

John is feeling so much better he has taken to jogging along and then walking back. The beach is also nice and quiet, a few tourists, a few fishermen and some seabirds.

There are locals that have huts where they sell refreshments. Some of the locals have mobile refreshment stands. They ride them up or down the beach serving drinks and slush ices.

And yes, it is usually very hot! On a good morning we get a sea breeze, but most mornings are brilliant sunshine with little breeze. I love the reflections cast by the clouds into the pooling water of low tide. Also the marks left in the sands by the receding tide, the patterns are magnificent!

Our boat chores consisted of a very long list. We have smashed the list!! Yep, we have nearly finished all of what we need to do.

Puerto Del Diablo/The Devil’s door

Off on another 2 day driving adventure this time we started at the Puerta Del Diablo.

“The Devil’s Gate is a rock formation and tourist site located in the district of Panchimalco, department of San Salvador, El Salvador. Its main attraction is the crack formed by two rocks nestled on the El Chulo hill, from whose peaks a wide panorama of the surrounding territory can be observed. It is located one kilometer from Balboa Park .”

When we arrived unfortunately so did the clouds. It was obviously a very beautiful site, but with the clouds closing in we had trouble seeing the views. We walked about, being careful on the glass platforms as they are slippery. 

Plus we were able to climb up one of the small overhangs which with my knee was a challenge. Again the view was there but not really clear due to cloud cover. We will definitely return, we need to see the area on a clearer day.

After leaving the park we drove into the city to do our grocery shopping. John indulged with his 1st hamburger since his surgery! He loved it! And had no issues.

El Boquerón

The San Salvador Volcano, also known as Quezaltepeque or El Boquerón. is a  strato volcano situated northwest to the city of San Salvador. In a protected park area. 

We had been told by many friends it was a wonderful area to visit…..so off we went for the day. Luckily the weather was good.

The drive up from the city was along a winding country road with some lovely views through the trees of the slopes and city below.

As we approached the final stretch the traffic became stalled and then stopped completely. We sat, waited, saw others getting out of cars. Then other cars trying to squeeze past, the situation did not look good. We could neither reverse, go ahead or even turn. John suggested I get out, walk uphill and find the problem and let him know.

Much to my amazement I found a huge 8 wheel trailer truck, flatbed and a large digger stuck at the park entrance. Nobody could go anywhere!

After watching the fiasco for a few minutes John appeared, his curiosity got the better of him. We watched, the driver was slowly maneuvering by reversing around a tight bend. The trailer became stuck against a ledge. The large digger was attached by chain to jack up the flatbed. Voila! The driver managed to free the flatbed and roll the whole lot into an entrance way, squeezing in next to a dozen cars.

We finally were able to return to the car, slowly approach the carpark and finally explore the park.

The parkland has marked trails, which you follow to the viewpoints of the crater. Once again while walking the trails I enjoyed the flowers!

 There are three viewpoints all at different angles along  the rim of the crater.

We walked from one to the other being able to look across and down into the crater. From above you can appreciate El Boqueroncito, the smaller crater at the bottom.

Looking across to the far sides you can see the slopes which are forested.

The Boqueron volcano has steep-walls of 500 m and is 1500 m wide at the summit crater, which was formed during a large eruption about 800 years ago. El Picacho, the most prominent peak at 1,960m.

It was a very enjoyable visit. Leaving was a lot easier as the traffic had abated. We chose to stop at a pizza place for lunch and had the most wonderful pizzas made in a proper pizza oven.

The pizza was amazing and all original. John had one with a ton of jalapeño peppers ….. I really don’t know how he managed with all that fire going inside him!

Overall it was a great day out.

National volleyball competition, more beach walking, a boat load of fish, and great inexpensive lunch, (which I don’t cook)

Back at the marina/hotel the weekend brought a national volleyball competition on the beach.

Somehow the competitors wee able to compete in the scorching sun on the roasting beach sand! Plus they were very good.

We also had our neighboring fishing boat return from a full day’s fishing with a boat load of fish, plus a huge Thrasher Shark! Chico was most impressed. Unfortunately for Chico they never shared any of the catch with him….He even begged looking on longingly as they cleaned the catch. 

The next morning Chico was able to catch a flying fish which landed on the dock. I think he was very happy as he ate every scrape of that flying fish.

We have also found that we can walk about a mile down the road and buy a very nice lunch for $7.00 from a vendor. The food is excellent and too much for me to finish. 

Life is going well 

A man is rich, whose heart is light,

Whose pleasures are simple, and his joys in sight,

He finds delight, in nature’s gentle breeze,

And sunshine warms his soul, with effortless ease.

His wealth is measured, not in gold or might,

But in the beauty, of a peaceful night,

A walk in the woods, a book by the fire,

These are the treasures, that his heart desires.

He is the richest, who can find delight,

In the smallest pleasures, that life brings to sight,

A child’s laughter, a friend’s warm embrace,

These are the riches, that fill his heart with grace.

So let us not be fooled, by wealth’s disguise,

For true richness lies, in a heart that’s wise,

That finds joy in the simple things,

And treasures love, above all earthly rings.

Author unknown

 

PHOTO’S LINK—–>>    https://photos.app.goo.gl/3H7C52ojUdq7dXXa7

Travel delays

Off we set for Bermuda with many plans of what  to do: maintenance on our house and Airbnb, house sitting for our son, being daycare for two grandchildren and other expectations of walks, get-togethers and outing

Our flight from El Salvador took us to Miami airport where we caught a taxi ride to Fort Lauderdale. This was to be our hub for our BermudAir flight to Bermuda the next day….. and then our flight was cancelled due to hurricane Ernesto. The airline just simply canceled our flight and left it to us to find another. This was not possible for several days so there we were in Fort Lauderdale in a hotel. Basically we filled the time by wandering around and shopping. Meanwhile John wasn’t feeling 100% 

Our flight new flight on the Monday wasn’t until later afternoon/evening so we spent that day wasting time at Fort Lauderdale airport. Then, the flight was delayed boarding, so more hanging about, then after boarding we sat in the plane, on the runway for 1 and 1/2 hours, while the pilot revved the engines. Why? Because the plane had been over filled/loaded with fuel and needed to burn off the excess fuel before being able to fly. (Or we would have to leave the plane while the fuel was taken out.  This all meant that we didn’t get to Bermuda until 12:30, yep, the early hours of the next day. We then needed to find Gavin’s car in the car park, drive to his place, get the baggage in and upstairs etc. John collapsed from exhaustion, literally he collapsed on the couch, which is not like him. I did think it strange because normally he has much more endurance than I do.

1st week

Tuesday we had to be up early ready to have Quest for the day. Chrissie and Quest were staying at Gavin’s too and so it was an easy transition. Meanwhile, we were still quite weary from the previous day. 

I had a Dr’s appointment, then there was grocery shopping and Quest came along. He was a real trooper, well, as long as we bribed him with this and that….. 

May and Quest

Meanwhile John was still feeling quite rotten. For the rest of the week we were staying at Gavins house as there were guests in our Airbnb. We kept busy: 

May brought me flowers she had picked at the Botanical Gardens  :} We gave her the El Salvador gift box.

We took Quest and Amy for a walks to Devonshire Bay. 

After work each day we had family visit. Everyone enjoys Gavin’s pool and garden being right on the ocean. John, swam with the kids, we chatted and caught up. 

Our girls, Chrissie and Kate

We had further Dr’s appointments. I was hopeful of getting all my complaints seen to.

By the end of the week, John was still feeling crummy, so Chrissie decided to test him for covid. His test came back positive!

We had to cancel most of our weekend plans. The family still came over to say hello. The kids had lots of fun, but poor John was kept at a distance. I was neurotic about catching it too.

In the red, Josh Kate’s bf, Kate, Chrissie, me, Shannon and Ethan our eldest grandson.

Our 25 year old Grandson Ethan and his girl friend Shannon, next to me. John and Rhianna our 23 year old Granddaughter, (who had recently had open heart surgery. Josh and our Kate.

Week 2

We moved to our home and had May and Quest for the week, instead of them going to camp. They thought they were going to have fun with us.

On the Tuesday John had to go back to the Dr’s office for a fasting blood test. That evening John received an urgent call from the Dr….. John had to go straight to the hospital. His blood work showed that his liver was not functioning at all well. It was from this point onwards that all our plans were shot. 

In the hospital John was back on the drip, off of all foods, and tested, tested, tested. It was decided that for what ever reason there was a problem with his bile duct and his liver was very jaundiced, so it would be back to Lahkey Hospital, Boston. Meanwhile John was rapidly declining, feeling really unwell, his colour was yellow, he was shivering one minute then hot the next. And actually he wasn’t himself at all.

The next bad news was that John still had Covid, so we could not fly on a commercial flight. Plus, we had to mask up, and all the rest that goes with Covid. Everyone was having to be tested too, but surprisingly still only John was positive. 

Once again we were Medi-vacted to Boston. This time we flew on a Lear jet with Canadian crew and Medical team. It was a smooth quick flight, but leaving late and arriving at 3:30am! Then off in the ambulance to the hospital about 45 minutes away. 

At the hospital room with just one bed for John which he was tucked up into, and hooked up to a load of instruments. I pulled out the big chair from the corner of the room it reclined quite well, I took one of John’s covers and pillows and rested there in the corner of the room. Meanwhile, poor John was jabbed, blood taken all sorts of machines attached to him and had a constant flow of medical staff examining him and discussing him while they stood on the room. 

At the approach of 7:00am I headed to the front of the hospital where the lady at reception found me a ride in a security van to my hotel.  Luckily it was the same hotel as before. Arriving at so early, I couldn’t check into my room as it wasn’t ready. However,  I could go for breakfast, which I was very pleased about as I hadn’t eaten since the previous lunchtime. The hotel does a really great buffet breakfast. Finally by 10:00am there was a room. 

After a few hours rest I headed out to get supplies, this time using the hotel shuttle. I picked up enough for a few days and then asked the teller to please call the hotel for the shuttle for me. As the area is all medical facilities the staff in all the shops are more than happy to call for shuttles and taxis. 

After returning to the hotel I got the shuttle to the hospital, and found John’s room in the maze of floors, corridors and rooms. John, had already been operated on. 

John’s bile duct had indeed been clogged again, this time with gunk. His liver was also terribly jaundiced, it was nearly one third filled with gas from his intestines and stomach, his blood count was also not good he was anemic, overall he was considered quite ill. 

The medical team had put in another stent. This one was to stay and act as a drain for his bile. He is one of 5% of people who over produce bile, nobody knows why this starts. Many people are misdiagnosed and go years being very ill due to this over production of bile in their system and some never do find out why and suffer.

Believe it or not but, not the next day, but the day after that, John was released from hospital. 

Our first stop was Best Buy, John needed and wanted a new iPad. As luck would have it there was a Labour Day sale on and the price was excellent.

The following day we flew home to Bermuda.

Flying over the reefs on the approach to Bermuda always is awesome!  

However, that did not mean John was well. He was sick for weeks after. His stomach and gut health were very poor. He found it challenging to even want to eat. In the end he lost over 25lbs. It has taken until now, the beginning of October for John to feel better and to be able to enjoy food.

Week 3 

Quest’s birthday October 11th

Needless to say our stay became convalescence for John. We did manage to get our Airbnb touched up with paint, completely cleaned, repaired where necessary and restored after 6 months of near constant use.  Ivan was a great help! However, John never go to do any of the other jobs he had planned…..“never mind, next time”, I tell him. 

Week 4

Taken from our bedroom at Gavin’s

We had another stay at Gavin’s lovely home. This time Gavin and Katie were away for Gavin’s Birthday celebration. We had our Granddaughters Lily and Eve to care for.

Granddaughter’s Lily and Evie

It certainly was a busy several days. There was a schedule to follow, which we hadn’t had for many years. Up early we are used to, but cooking breakfast, driving to school and such. Then after school the various activities to take them to.

We even lost Lily one afternoon, she went to tennis and it wasn’t on the schedule because the school hadn’t confirmed the activity. It was busy, but the girls were amazing! So able, helpful, and easy.

Quest’s Birthday Party

That weekend was our Grandson, Quest’s Birthday Party at Gavin’s place too. The day dawned rainy, overcast, and dull….not Birthday Party weather.

However, the party went ahead, all went well, Quest and guests had a blast even swimming and playing in the rain.

Tzai and Papa catch up. (We hadn’t seen her for quite some time)

We all had a tasty pizza lunch.

The children watched a movie on the big screen in the viewing lounge.

The adults all chatted, and caught up. Above are Quest’s 2 Granddads.

The cake was a great success!!!

and of course the presents were a hit with Quest.

Shortly after Quest’s special day, it was time to pack and leave. John was feeling like he could cope with the traveling and he was keen to get back to Aeeshah and recover. 

“Don’t judge each day by the harvest you reap but by the seeds that you plant.” —Robert Louis Stevenson

FYI:

“Every 35 days, your skin replaces itself. Your liver, in about a month. Your body makes these cells from the food you eat. What you eat literally becomes you. You have a choice in what you are made of. Eat wisely.” ~Anonymous

 

Off to El Salvador

PHOTO ALBUM: 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6FFoZFXibrdwWq1C7

We left Puesto Del Sol Marina, chugged down the river and were out into the Pacific again. The plan was to head into a bay at the very northern end of Nicaragua.

The day was another mix of weather. It started partly cloudy, became cloudless and then towards the end of our passage along back came all the clouds bringing a threat of rain. We passed around the point before the bay, seeing many fishermen and being careful to avoid the lines. These guys were using flags and buoys from their long lines. 

Punta el Rosario

Was our intension to stop for the night in a sheltered bay behind Punta el Rosario. No sooner than I had reached the bow, ready to drop the anchor than there was a patrol boat with mounted machine guns and 6 troops aboard. 

Of course we had to drop anchor, put out fenders and allow their Lieutenant to come aboard. After showing him our documents, him seeing we were legal, he phoned his superior. He asked if we may stay in the bay for the night. His superior did not advise it as the nearby fishing village had had some problems. They mentioned bandits and I gathered there had been theft issues. They said that it would be a huge temptation for the local fishermen to have a boat like ours anchored nearby.

We decided to head off across the Golfo De Fonseca to Isla Meanguera to anchor near the village on the Isla.

These islands being on the El Salvador side of the bay. The Golfo De Fonseca is a large gulf which has Nicaragua on one side, Honduras in the middle and El Salvador.

It was already 4:30 and we knew we only had a good few hours of daylight left. Unfortunately as we approached the isles not only did it become dark, but the regular heavy rain clouds drew in and it started to pour. We were totally reliant on the Navionics tracks for navigation around the isle and into the bay, just crossing our fingers, hoping there were no buoys or other obstacles in front of us. I stood on the bow with a head lamp and a torch looking out, but with the heavy rain it was near impossible to see any distance.  Finally we were we thought we wanted to be, I managed to drop the anchor, we held, and were set for the night. What was near us? We didn’t know, so we just  had faith in our Navionics. 

Isla Meanguera

We found our selves in a very lovely bay. It was sheltered, calm, with a few houses and fishing boats. We ended up staying 2 nights at Isla Meanguera.

The night we arrived and a second night during which we had the worst possible thunder, lightning, rain, wind event. It was even scary for John who swore that when he was at the stern the lightening hit the rocks just behind us.

 

Finally we received word that we could cross the bar into El Salvador.

We sailed over night towards the bar, but again encountered dozens of fishing boats.

These boats were everywhere and of every size. The large commercial fishing boats were further off shore with the smaller ones closer in.

Luckily they did have lights on, but it meant we were dodging them all night long. Again John did the middle part of the night.

Crossing the bar 

I was up at 4:30am and on watch enjoying a lovely sunrise. Yes, the fishing boats were still around.

By 7:30am we arrived at our rendezvous point with a few hours to spare. We tried anchoring but John was very concerned its having Aeeshah rolling all over the places which meant everything was strained and stressed including us. The answer was to make way at a knot out to sea for an hour and then return. 

Finally our pilot boat arrived, the waiting was quite stressful for both of us. Probably more so for John who was sleep deprived.

Off we set at full throttle following the pilot boat and before we knew it we were across the worst of the swell. Our top speed was nearly 11 knots! 

By the time I got the buoys and ropes readied, fastened to Aeeshah we were dockside at the marina. We received a very warm welcome from everyone there….and gosh there was quite a number of folks.

There were the authorities, Bill and Jean, various cruisers and believe it or not a waiter Oscar holding a tray of delicious looking drinks. 

Hotel Bahia Del Sol Marina

John went off with the authorities to check us in and I sorted out Aeeshah. It was the easiest entry into a country we had ever experienced! 

The marina/hotel is very nice. The grounds run from the river across to the Pacific on the other side. There are several pools and bars, a daily buffet, 2 other restaurants,

plus one can just have a tab for payment at the end of the month.

We have enjoyed walking around the lovely grounds. 

Being on the river but close to the sea the marina is naturally affected by the tide. The tides in the Pacific are very steep. In other words there is either a great loss of water or a massive flow in. The wash by our dock was quite scary, you would not want to fall in.

We found out that the water at the docks was not potable, we needed water and couldn’t make it under the circumstances. So, we called the waterman.

He delivered the water which we shall now use, but we still catch our own drinking water with a water catch system I devised.

After about a week we finally were able to lower the dinghy and head up river for a brief visit to Bill and Jean’s property.

We are looking forward to further river explorations.

San Salvador

A few trips to the city were necessary, we needed a new AC. Ours had been drenched when in Nicaragua and so the electronics no longer worked. We also needed another fuel container for the dinghy. Ours had been stolen when we were in the marina in Nicaragua. It was our 1st night at the marina, the dinghy was way up the top of the davits, well secured. Someone, during the night, managed to climb up, unattached the fuel lines from the tank, neatly coil them up, plus fold up the fuel tank cover and leave with our fuel tank. Thus we needed a new fuel tank. 

Finding either proved to be impossible. We had rented a car, driven into San Salvador and visited all of the recommended AC dealers and hardware stores, absolutely nothing. The ACs were all split systems and not suitable for a boat. We did finally locate a fuel tank for the dinghy.

Also in the city we were able to stock up on supplies as the city has large well stocked grocery stores, near the marina are very small tiendas.

Plus we visited the Artisans market and found some lovely gifts to take home. The folks there were so very friendly and helpful. There were many wonderful arts and crafts.

The city was quite easy for us to navigate around. It was interesting seeing the different areas.

There were lovely murals on walls, the tall Google building and the Arts Museum looks very interesting for a future visit.

The drive there and back was colorful too. Many stands selling plastic beach toys were set up along the Costa del Sol. Further along dozens of coconuts for sale, further still water melons were being offered.

A walk to the end of Costa Del Sol

Costa Del Sol is the peninsular and beach where our marina is located. The peninsular is a good 40 minute drive, the beach is 15 kilometers long. It is a favorite beach holiday area. One morning we took a walk to the end of the peninsula, Costa Del So, from the marina. It is actually not a long walk just about 1.5 kms.

The road there is lined with an odd collection of small farms, luxury resorts and ruins of what must have been fancy homes.

At the end where the mouth is located and the beach starts we found many small palapas which are used mainly at weekend and holidays to serve foods, some small tiendas and water taxis all there to cater to the visitors.

The beach itself is covered in driftwood littered with trash. We guessed this was from the river? I did find some shells and we enjoyed beach walking. 

We stopped under what was set up as a life guards and enjoyed the shade for a while.

We enjoyed a refreshing drink while enjoying watching the venders and locals just enjoying the local colour. 

Again we look forward to further walks to the beach when we return. I just hope it cools down a bit by then……

Don and Andy arrive:

Don and Andy are our Chico and Aeeshah sitters/minders while we travel home this summer.

They arrived a few days before we were due to fly home. We drove into the city to meet them from their bus.

Off we went to lunch and then to the grocery store so that they could get a few basics for staying on the boat.

Back at the marina we briefed them on Aeeshah and Chico.

MacDonald’s for lunch

The day before we left we all went in the dinghy to the local “MacDonald’s”. This was a very rustic restaurant in the middle of a sand bar in the river. Near the marina and the river mouth is a sandbar with a collection of restaurants all on stilts. Why the stilts? The rise and fall from the tides…..

The food was very good, all of us selecting shrimps.

After a fun time catching up and riding the dinghy back it was time for us to finish up aboard Aeeshah. 

The next morning we were driven to the airport and started our journey home.

6 Facts about El Salvador

 El Salvador accepts Bitcoin.

El Salvador means “The Saviour”

San Salvador pre-dates the Spanish arrival.

El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America.

The República de El Salvador flag is a symbol of independence in Central America.

El Salvador does not have a standing army.

 

PHOTOS ——>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/gidKt6w53VobKtpQ8

Bahia Santa Elena

The passage to Bahia San Elana was lovely. The shoreline and off shore islands looked to be wild and exotic.

This enormous bay was our pit-stop before heading to Nicaragua. We wanted to explore the area as it is all national park, “The Parque National Santa Rosa” and totally uninhabited.

This area had recently been designated a Marine Management Area which meant the bay would be reserved for specific purposes. These include the conservation of marine life. 

Bahia Santa Elena is 732-hectare. It is a breeding area for several marine species, including dolphins, whales, and turtles. Plus the endangered whale shark and several species of rays breed here and are seen here. 

Our explorations were in the dinghy. The day was absolutely lovely, sunny, with just the right amount of clouds in the sky. We set off around the bay in a clockwise direction. Absolutely everywhere was stunningly beautiful.

Along the shores of the first side bay we did consider going ashore, but then I spotted long spined sea urchins by the hundreds sitting in the shallows. We decided to postpone our landing to the other side of the bay.

 The massive, tree-covered slopes on the northern shores were of dense jungle. We could hear howler monkeys, many, many different bird calls and insect screeches. 

Along the shores of the lower part of the bay are several river estuaries. As it was low tide there was no way we could enter the rivers, that will be for the next time. Even the shallows of the rivers were interesting and attractive.

Beyond them we could see that the foliage had changed. It was of species of plants that survive in drier climates.

We surmised that this was probably due to the Papagayo winds, or Papagayo jet as they are called, that blast through in the winter months. These wind speeds have been recorded as high as 70 mph which is just shy of hurricane strength.

We saw cormorants basking in the sun with their wings spread, babbling away to each other. 

The mangrove area that we came to was again impassable for us. There was actually supposed to be an access path to the parks maintenance trail. However we never saw any sign of any possible access.

About halfway back up the far side of the bay we were able to land the dinghy. Being low tide and no swell it was very easy. However we had to be extremely gentle as poor dinghy was damaged. 

Off we went walking the beach. The beach was enormous being as it was low tide.

We walked the shallows, plus the high tide mark where I found many Paper Nautilus shells and bleached sea eggs. I was really surprised as these were so very delicate and yet still intact after being washed ashore.

Near the low tide mark I found a lovely Rooster Conch. At first I thought it was alive, but it wasn’t. 

There were several small rivers running out across the sands and looking up them we could see creeks. We didn’t dare enter, too many bugs plus the threat of snakes.

Again no sign of a pathway that we had read about, however we found a backwards parks sign. However the foliage behind was impenetrable. 

The weather was doing its usual clouding up as the day progressed, getting ready for the regular later afternoon rain event. Back at Aeeshah we readied to leave early the next morning.

———————————————————————

Passage to Puesta Del Sol, Nicaragua

Our passage to Puesta Del Sol, Nicaragua was wonderful. We had perfect sailing wind and the seas were just a gentle roll. There were regular visits from dolphins who would race Aeeshah through the sea. The evening brought a lovely sunset.

The only challenge were the numerous fishermen with their long lines. Most of them were further off shore than we were and so easy to avoid. As the night progressed we came upon a very large group of about 18 lighted boats or vessels. They appeared to be in a group and more or less stationary in the distance. We wondered if perhaps it was some type of netting taking place, or a floating fishery where they keep the fish in nets. Once past this group again the fishing boats tended to be alone or in pairs. We were very thankful they had lights on as they do not show up on AIS or radar, plus they are silent. Without the lights we could have easily run into them.

Into the Viejo River to the marina

The sun rose on the distant shore we could see the Nicaraguan volcanos and ahead we could see where we had to enter the river. To get into Puesta Del Sol marina, (the only Harbour/landing), we had to cross a sand bar and travel up river….the Rio Viejo.

The marina directed us, Juanita whom we had been in contact with gave us very specific instructions as to where enter by sending us way-points, plus she was there to give us further info via her WhatsApp. 

The river was flowing out at quite a rapid rate, but slowly, slowly, we crept up the shores. And around the first bend we could see the marina with a few fellows awaiting our arrival. It turned out to be a very easy entry.

Once in place we were shown to the office to meet Juanita and start our check in process. 

The marina was very empty with just a few slips having boats. We headed towards the office which turned out to be in the main hotel reception area.

Again the hotel was very quiet, just a few workers around. Jaunita met with us, got our info and said the immigration, and ports folks would be along later to check us in. Customs couldn’t make it so he would just take the info via Juanita and email. 

We met with the authorities, who had driven in from the city over an hour away. Within half an hour everything was done, they left and we were officially in Nicaragua. 

The Puesto Del Sol Marina

Was 1st built in 2004 by a returning Nicaragua cruiser. The marina as far as we were concerned was nice, quiet and simple. Other than us for the 1st week, the only occupied boat was the fellow that built the marina and his wife. Then another cruising boat came in they are headed to Costa Rica. 

John was able to use the marina dock to repair our poor, sad dinghy. It is now A1 again.

The marina is attached to the hotel and grounds. These days the hotel is only open at the weekends. So we have the use of all the grounds and plus the bathrooms in the hotel reception. This makes for a very peaceful area to stay and a huge area to wander.

Across the river from the hotel pool you can see Volcán San Cristóbal. This volcano is the highest volcano in Nicaragua at 1,745 m (5,725 ft). It also forms a backdrop to the city of Chichigalpa. From the hotel, you go out the entrance gate and before you is 1 straight country road into the village. 

The village named Aserradores, (which means Sawyers)

On our first trip out we did a sort of reconnaissance mission, looking, and asking and sussing out what was around.

There are fields for cattle, pigs, horses and crops. These fields and the road are lined by lovely shady trees.

Tucked away, off the side of the country lane are the homes, 3 tiendas, a hostel, a young lady who does laundry, a bakery, a butcher’s window, and the local church.

In between are lanes leading to further homes, small farms and the beach. Yes, a very simple village, but we found after looking around that we could get nearly everything we needed. 

The bakery, Buns of Paradise, opens Monday, Wednesday and Friday. They sell very nice freshly made sourdough breads, cinnamon buns, baguettes, rolls and sweets. Going there became a Monday, Wednesday, Friday habit.

The laundry was done by a young lady using a combination of a small machine, a scrubber using hand power and a clothes line for drying. She did a wonderful job! Our clothes smelled of pure sunshine, just so clean! She has a very sweet little girl who has a chick she found as her special pet. 

Finding fruit was a bit challenging until I figured it out. They grow everything like mangoes, bananas, citrus so they really have no need to sell/buy fruit.

Therefore I started walking the marina hotel property, picking and picking up windfalls. The mangoes were wonderful if I could get them before the birds and insects. John loved having the citrus for his rum.

I didn’t wish to buy meat or chicken at the butchers. They slaughtered it right there and sold it out the front window. It was just too fresh for me. 

Beer? Cash? Diesel?

Yep the village was good for nearly everything, that was until, John needed beer, cerveza….. We had started asking in the tiendas for beer, cerveza, and we were met with shocked expressions, almost like John had said a very rude word. “No! No! Cerveza” Once outside we were met by a fellow who must have heard through the village grapevine of our search. He explained in a quiet voice, this was not allowed in this village, but we could ask at the hostel or Pirates bar. That was when we figured it out, the church…..must rule the village and beer/alcohol is the devils brew. 

The hostel sold John cold beers by the dozen. A brand new type, that he reports are very good. The hostel also serves a very decent fish/chips/salad lunch. 

The next issues to solve were we could not get money, cash. There’s no ATM or bank! Nor was there any fuel, diesel for sale. We needed more diesel to carry on towards our destination. (We do sail, but we do also like to keep the fuel tanks full, in case, just in case).

The solution was to travel to the city. However, we found out the taxis are very small cars so we had to do two trips to:

Chinandega, taxi to the city.

Our 1st trip to the city was to get cash, go to a grocery store for all we couldn’t find in the village, to go to a pharmacy and pick up a SIM card for John’s phone. We were picked up by Marvin in his little red car. The drive in was along country roads, passing fields of cattle and acres, and acres of sugar cane. Sugar seems to be a big Nicaraguan product. 

The city was buzzing with energy, traffic, bikes zipping around and folks busily going about their business. I loved the tricycles they were using as transport and taxis.

1st stop was for a SIM card, very easily purchased for $3.00, included 3 gigs for 7 days. Everything done at a roadside Claro stand/kiosk. 

2nd stop was the ATM for US cash, which you can use as well as local cash. Again, very easily done at any ATM.

3rdly we were off to the grocery store. There we found everything we needed in a large grocery store. 

4th we dropped into the pharmacy next to the grocery and I found all I wanted. Finally we drove to a small phone electronics storefront where Marvin, the driver got John his new phone jack and cable. All told the driving plus shopping took just over 3 hours. 

2 days later we once again drove to the city. This time our driver was Noel, in his little white taxi we climbed in with our fuel jugs. Again it was very easy. The fuel was very well priced at $4.50 a gallon. 

Opposite the gas station was a terrific, fruit and veg stand where I stocked up on all we needed. Plus, some fruits to try.

Fruits to try were:

Dragon fruit/ The Pitaya

 this strange looking softball sized fruit with its fluorescent reddish pink skin and overlapping scaly leaves really fascinated us. Even more fascinating was the deep magenta colored fruit inside with its tiny black edible seeds (It’s quite different to the white flesh of the Vietnamese Dragon fruit). The Pitaya is native to Costa Rica and Nicaragua where it is grown commercially for its fruit. This cactus type vine produces huge flowers that only bloom at night. This fruit was sort of like a kiwi in flavor, enjoyable.

The inside such a bright fluorescent pinky purple that it stained our stools and urine for days.

Nance fruit

 The nance fruit looks a bit like a little, yellow, cherry but bears a strong odor and unique flavor. We both like it.

Its thin flesh is golden and it encases a creamy white pulp. Apparently it can be eaten  raw or cooked, into smoothies or jams. I read that In Jamaica it is called hogberry. What’s more, nance fruit is used to make a fermented beer-like drink known as chicha in Panama and parts of Latin America.

Mamoncillo:

 Most commonly known as the Spanish lime, mamoncillo has a striking resemblance to your typical small, lime with its green skin. But it’s not a citrus fruit. This fruit it belongs to the family of lychees and rambutan. In fact, the name “mamoncillo” translates to honey berry, which it really does taste like sweet honey.

It is of the more popular Nicaraguan fruits. It is also added into desserts, beverages and jellies. Nicaraguans even roast mamoncillo seeds and eat them like water chestnuts.

Most of the days we were in Nicaragua we would go for a walk into the village. Normally finding something to pick up from the little tiendas.

Me, looking for birds, squirrels, lizards, flowers, or whatever I could photograph. I spotted and got a photo of the Nicaraguan National bird: The Guardabarranco, Torogoz or Turquoise-Browed Motmot (Eumomota superciliosa) – is the Official “National bird of Nicaragua”

Sometimes following the muddy tracks that led to further small farms or homes. I do believe we probably became know to every villager. They were all very friendly people. 

Beach

Our first excursion to the beach was a trek into the unknown. we followed a trail heading off from the marina passing under very nice shady trees, but soon found ourselves surrounded by mosquitoes. Bug repellent was a must! We passed the small fishing settlement at the side of the bay. With John navigating we followed a lane around, and about, around, and about, until, finally we went straight down a trail and there was the marina’s unused pallapa that sits at the top of the beach. 

The beach is sooo big! And it just seems to go on forever.

This area of Central America is known for its surfing beaches. We didn’t see any surfers. We walked along a ways, and then back. There was nobody about, no boats or ships out to sea, just a very wild, wide, long, beach.

Another time we walked into, then out of the village where we were joined by a very cute brown dog. Down the road and around 2 bends we followed another lane to the beach. This time coming out at the distant end.

This beach is massive! Admittedly, it was just past low tide.

We set off to walk towards the palapa. We had water with us, which in the heat was really needed. There were many shells in the shallows, plus a few folks fishing, a couple swimming and a guy in the surf on his board. By the time we got back we had covered 7 miles, 7 very hot miles. 

Afternoon rain, thunder, lightening was a daily event. On the plus side it sure cooled the temperature down. 

Chico gets ashore at last!

Chico adored the hotel grounds. By the 3rd day he had discovered to his delight he could walk across the docks and up to the garden where there was his favorite, grass.

Of course we had to limit his grass consumption as we did not want him to get blockage like he did in Bocas Del Toro.

He would walk up to the gardens most mornings and evenings when it was some what cooler. 

And then it was time to say good bye to lovely Nicaragua and the friends we had made. We want to return and travel around this amazing, peaceful country.

10 interesting facts about Nicaragua

Land of lakes and volcanoes.

Home to four World Heritage Sites.

It has colonial cities.

Home to 7% of the world’s biodiversity.

Biosphere reserves.

First Geopark in Central America is here.

It is the birthplace of the father of Hispanic modernism.

The country has around 2,000 different dishes.

 

PHOTO LINK —>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/kQ66i7BZhUj4Ymrr5

Playa Pallena, Tamber

We succeeded with our dinghy landing on the beach! We chose what looked to be the calmest area. John prepped the wheels ahead of time, (they are best 1/2 way down), had the engine 1/2 way up, we aimed for the shore and tried to time our landing with the surf.

It wasn’t the perfect landing but we landed. We pulled the dingy as far up as was possible and off we walked to look around the area.

Actually we found 2 grocery stores, they were not very big but they had essentials. We also found a restaurant and several lovely homes.

For our walk back we followed a lane that ran above the beach in the shade of the trees. The shade makes all the difference especially when carrying groceries.

We noticed a fellow out in one of the fishing-kayaks that we had previously noticed off shore of Panama.

Chatting with him he told us he was part of the 1st International fishing kayak competition that was happening right there in the bay on Saturday.

Saturday being just 2 days away we were still anchored in the bay waiting for calmer offshore seas. Well, several kayaker so chose to cast for live bait right off our boat.

                                   Chico was fascinated!

 

I believe he would have gladly joined them.

 

 

 

 

 

Chatting with the ones around our boat we learnt a bit about the sport which is apparently becoming quite popular. The kayaks are equipped with all the latest gagets.

In the mean time we had been for a dinghy around the massive bay even going the 2 miles to the beach on the far side. Going ashore was not an option the rollers were far too big.

The scenery was magnificent.

Another walk took us to the fishermen’s dock.

The whole set up was very interesting and new to us. One of the fishermen explained to me that their long lines are 3 kilometers long, with each holding 300 hooks. That they go out everyday of the year.

The moorings weights they had were quite something, huge tires filled with concrete. They tie the pangas from the moorings to the main dock for easier access.

We had lunch ashore twice, the sea food was wonderful, cooked to perfection.

After lunch we would go for a beach and river walk.

The beaches are not what we are used to, but wilder, absolutely massive and covered in drift wood and sea shells. I really enjoyed the shell hunting and rock hunting.

There are many semi precious stones to be found on Costa Rican Pacific shores. Common beach stone include Dolomite, Quartz, Serpentine and Syenite, plus Red Jasper

We found some unusual rocks next to the river and some were some very unusual rocks!

We also enjoyed watching the locals fishing where the river ran into the sea. They cast lines and use hand nets to catch the fish. I’m still not sure what type of fish they were catching.

And then there were the birds, beautiful birds all around. Our favorite were still the Scarlet Macaws.

Bahia Samara

We found Bahia Samara to be a very lovely anchorage, quite well sheltered from the seas by a reef and island, so just a bit rolly, with an amazing beach and hotel behind the palm trees.

Again we lucked out with a wonderful, sunny, morning so off we went in the dinghy to the beach for a walk.

What a fantastic beach walk we had!!

The beach is 2 miles long, we never walked the entire length, just as far as the river which was about halfway.

I was so very happy to find quite a few more lovely shells.

There was drift wood, everywhere, but no trash to speak of. Horses to rent if we so chose, further down cafes for lunch, and miles of beach to explore.

Needless to say we had a lwonderful few hours wandering the beach.

That late afternoon, evening and till about 9:00pm we had a crazy, thunder, lightening event. It was the worst either John or had ever experienced.

Lightening flashing all around and above, thunder so loud it was nearly painful, and for hours the wind and rain lashed Aeeshah. The thunder finally faded, but the rain stayed through the night.

Bahai Flamingo, Potrero

was our next stop. Once again this was a calm anchorage. We were there to pick up a few supplies, mainly beer for John, as he had nearly run out. There was a long beach with restaurants above. Across the bay was a very pretentious marina who do not welcome cruisers even for fuel.

The beach landing was fairly easy. I do believe we are mastering this skill. We find a falling tide is the best tide for landing.

At the top of the beach we found a road and followed it towards where we believed there was a grocery. The grocery turned out to be one of the best stocked we had seen, expensive, but that’s Costa Rica.

Cocos

Was supposed to be our final stop in Costa Rica, but the weather just didn’t oblige. Cocos, is a massive bay with a very long beach with the  town behind.

 It is probably the nicest town we have seen so far, very touristy with character too. Again everyone is very helpful and friendly.

We had 2 days of more or less constant rain. However we did get ashore, another successful dinghy landing on a beach. 

Actually the beach landing is just off the small dock in the middle of the beach and is partially sheltered by a reef. So, we have learnt to go when the tide is dropping as the surf is less. High tide or rising tide and it’s dangerous.

We enjoyed wandering around the town. Found a few excellent groceries, the Chinese grocery was even reasonably priced. Plus we enjoyed a few lunches ashore, the food was excellent. 

In this region there are several massive bays that brag to being calm. We decided to head off for a few days to: 

Bahia Nacascolo in Papaguayo Bay.

This bay is just enormous, and at Bahia Nasacolo there was no swell. The bay is all beach when the tide is low, but when it is high there is no beach to be seen.

The only downfall of Bahia Nasacolo is that there are jet skis for rent. And they allow just anybody of any age it seemed to do crazy stuff. Little kids driving while dad hung on behind and sometimes got flipped off when the kid did sharp bends. Of course they also came way too close to us.

Other than the jet skis the bay was magnificent. There were howler monkeys in the trees calling out, schools of fish jumping around us, sea birds swooping, and calm seas lapping. 

The weather is always, well nearly always lovely in the mornings. Then in the afternoons the thunder showers move around. Sometimes just over the land, sometimes from across the bay. By evening it is usually calm and cooler which makes for a comfortable night.

One morning we enjoyed an outing to a neighboring beach during low tide and walked as far as we could. I was very happy again being able to look for shells, beans and pretty stones.

Another morning we walked Playa Nacasolo and area behind the beach.

Costa Rica really is well set up for its tourists and residents that go to the beach.

The facilities are excellently maintained with bins for trash, manicured pathways and transport right to the beach.

Again this was a very pleasant walk on the beach and through the trees behind.  

Cocos again:

Back to Cocos after a few days of calm water. We wanted to stock up and get organized to leave. But the weather just wasn’t co-operating. We need the settled weather, along with swell less than a meter, and a high tide at the right time of day for us to cross the bar in El Salvador.  So, instead of playing waiting game a waiting game it looks like it’s going to be Nicaragua for now. 

Off to the beach early in the morning in order to get fuel. That proved to be quite easy. We got a great taxi driver Henry. He took us with our jugs. John made sure the right amount was put into the jugs this time. Then back to the beach where John loaded the dinghy and took them back to the boat. 

Harbour Master’s office was the next stop. It was still early, just after 9:00am. The initial part of checking out went well. And then she said we had to go to the bank and pay a fee, pick up the receipt, then visit the immigration folks located near the police station. Apparently customs is located at the airport and she was emailing them. They would then email back our release, so they could issue us a zarpe.

Off to the bank, well there we found we were #49 in a line that was just up to #25. We sat, waited, sat, waited for over an hour. It was then approaching noon and these folks go to lunch. When John was finally served the person didn’t know how to do what was required and took another age. 

We found the immigration office, got our necessary paperwork. By then it was past noon, the tide was near high. John was worried about the dinghy, so off to the beach he went while I waited at the Ports office. 

Bad news, he said upon return….the dinghy had been holed. Off to the beach we went. We dragged the dinghy as far as possible to the very top onto a low ridge. 

And then, the skies opened and there was a downpour, we got soaking wet. The Ports office would be shut for lunch till 1:00 or 1:30pm, we too went for lunch. After a quick lunch we went back to Ports. He told us further bad news, there was no wifi soooo the airpot/customs could not send the paperwork. However he was going to stay in the office and wait for it, please return.

We had to get a water taxi from the beach to Aeeshah. John then went back on the water taxi with the dinghy pump. Next he waited around the Ports office till finally the paperwork was back. He pumped up the dinghy and got it back and up on Aeeshah. We still needed supplies for travel.

The next morning when we should have been underway we waved down another fisherman/water taxi boat. We went in got our supplies and then had to find a ride back to Aeeshah.

Not arriving back till late morning we set off for a bay 2 hours away. 

On, on!! The adventure continues……

Why do you go away? So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colours. Terry Pratchett

The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between. Norton Juster

 

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Puerto Jimenez Osa Peninsula

Aeeshah crossed the Golfito Dulce, the large gulf that in itself is very unique.

This gulf is a tropical fjord formed from of the force of tectonic plates, due to internal transformations of the Earth’s crust.  Unlike most other fjords in the world that were created by the action of glaciers. This type of fjord isi characterized by being very deep. In Golfo Dulce, the seabed measures 60 meters, (196ft), deep near the shore and then drops abruptly to 200 meters, (657ft), to form a trench.

The formation has caused the water to remain motionless at the bottom. This, added to the depth and tectonic characteristics of the place, prevents the water from mixing with the surface water and creates an anoxic basin, that is, one that lacks oxygen. Apparently, Golfito Dulce’s fjord  is the only tropical fjord with this characteristic in the world,

Puerto Jimenez anchorage

Our first stop on the other side of the Golfito Dulce was a typical town anchorage. There was the large ferry dock, many moored pangas, a few local sailboats, and the regular black sandy beaches with surf running ashore. 

We ventured ashore in the dinghy and on the first day we landed on the beach near the ferry stop. If you are wondering why we didn’t use the ferry dock or a dock that is because of the tides, plus they are for the locals to land on, not to tie off of. 

This first dinghy landing on our part was quite clumsy. We still haven’t mastered the rushing rolling swell and the steepness of the shoreline, plus the need to be quick. After landing, not getting too wet, dropping the wheels and dragging the dinghy up the beach we tied off of a tree and walked towards the town. 

The town was quiet due to it being the off season, or so we guessed. The locals were very friendly towards us. We took a meander around to stretch our legs and then headed back to the boat taking note  of a better beach to land the next day. 

The following day we headed in the dinghy into the bay on the north side of the ferry dock. Here the beach didn’t have any surf so the landing was a breeze.

In Jimenez we wandered down the one Main Street and picked up a few supplies. There was a very good grocery and a wonderful fruit/veg market. We did see one very unusual, to us, purchase in the grocery store:

Along to Bahia Drake

Our 2nd destination at approximately 60 miles away we arose at 3:30am and set off by 4:00am. Crazy? Not really as we preferred to travel by day rather than night. The main reason for this is the local long line fishermen.

At least by day you can spot them and therefore avoid them and their lines which can be over 3k, (1.8miles),  long.

The fishermen we have seen so far have been the small panga fishermen who mark the outer edge of the line with a flag on a buoy and the inner end is on a winch aboard their boat or panga.

We have been warned that they get mightily upset if you cross the lines, tangle or cut them with the propellor. So, it’s best to avoid them. We have seen them on each day of our travels. 

Bahia Drake

This passage was quite tiresome and we were both relieved to arrive in Bahia Drake. This bay was very, large with a long black sand, beach and a settlement/town behind. There was also quite a roll of swell from the Pacific. We anchored and hoped the roll would improve. In the morning John felt we were ok for another day as the chop had selttled and the roll had lessened plus we were facing into it. Being a showery day we were happy to stay. 

Sierpe river

We didn’t dare go ashore as it entailed landing on the beach that had huge waves crashing on it and our landing skills were nowhere near perfected yet. We went up the nearby Sierpe river instead. This river ride was an absolutely delight, each bend showed yet another amazing view.

The jungle slopes from the river were covered in massive trees and handing vines of all types. We saw a few folks fishing and an elegant heron, a Bare Throated Tiger heron.

We went as far as the rapids enjoying the scenery. 

Unfortunately back at Aeeshah the sea state deteriorated and we had a nasty chop on top of the Pacific swell often catching us side on. We had tried to adapt one of our anchors as a stern anchor but being the wrong type it did not really help. It was too late to leave for our next destination, so we were stuck for an uncomfortable night. John swearing never again.

Manuel Antonio beach/Bahia Espadilla Quepos

Approaching Quepos we were disappointed to find a large tourist boat basically blocking the prime anchoring spots. So where we dropped the anchor was not ideal. However we managed to lower the dinghy, get the other bow anchor, chain and line into it to use as a stern anchor.

Then John pulled the anchor line that we had attached to the stern so that Aeeshah was more or less facing the rolling swell. He dropped it and we were happy with how Aeeshah was lying. The night was relatively comfortable. In the morning we were very happy to find the large tourist boat gone. So we up anchored both anchors which was quite a hassle in the rolling sea. And then we re-anchored but only needed the main anchor as we planned to get ashore and purchase a stern anchor.

Off to Quepos town

We headed into the beach determined to beach the dinghy and  get a ride into Quepos to buy a stern anchor. Plus we had to get to the Port Captain to get our next zarpe, as in Costa Rica you need the port to port zarpes. 

The beach landing was quite easy, and the wheels made getting the dinghy to the top of the beach above the high tide mark easy too.

We asked a local beach vendor where to go and set off uphill on a pathway to the road. The way we walked was along a lovely shady path, up the hillside, passing a few streams. Near the top we asked yet another local for a taxi phone number and he actually phoned one for us! The Costa Ricans are just so kind and helpful.

The taxi arrived and off we rode the 3 miles into the Port Captain’s office near the port in Quepos. Well it turned out the process would take the Port Captain until after lunch at 1:00pm. So, we adjusted our plans and set off walking towards the main part of Quepos. 

Along the way we found a fancy marina, Marina Pez Vela and decided to explore. John hoped the marina store would sell anchors. Nope, no anchors, so we went for an ice tea in the cafe. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After which we got a very nice taxi driver from in front of the marina and requested to go to a marine store. Once there John spied the anchor of his choice sitting in the window. It was a bit big and a heavy weight, but the taxi driver and I convinced him to get it. 

Next we asked the driver to take us to a muy bien, grocery store. He took us to his favourite one and in we went for groceries. From there was back to the Marina Pez Vela for lunch. The restaurant didn’t seem to mind us walking in with an anchor and  bags of groceries. 

We both were very happy with lunch. I had the most amazing seared tuna salad in a wrap.

 From lunch we went to pick up yet another taxi and lucked out by getting the same fellow. He took us to the Port Captain, the zarpe was ready. He drove us back to the pathway above the beach, and had a chuckle as we headed off down the path with the anchor and groceries.

At the beach there were several tourists that were amused to see us arriving to collect the dinghy with a huge anchor and bags of groceries in tow. 

Bahia Herradura

Was our next stop and it proved to be an awful anchorage. It was lumpy with swell, rainy, uncomfortable even with the stern anchor.

Then the stern anchor proved to be very difficult for John to retrieve. Reflecting back, we should not have stopped there.

Along the way there we did pass a very odd, huge, floating platform. We guessed it was a fish farm, or storage. There were a mass of sea birds swooping above it. And it appeared to be netted.

Isla Cedros & Jesusita, Playa Langosta

A wonderful anchorage, sheltered between 2 islands where we finally lost the swell, had a nice breeze in a peaceful location. 

There were many mangrove swallows that were swooping in and visiting us. I’m sure they had an eye on the sail bag as a handy nest area. Of course Chico was very keen on stalking them. So when I was awakened at 5:00am by a terrible cry, more like a scream that sounded like a wounded child I rushed up on deck. Sure enough Chico was in a panic swimming around the boat. I rushed down the ladder and swam in a panic myself to help him. Poor baby he was so incredibly distressed. He followed me back to the ladder and his buoy which I helped him up. We rinced him off, dried him off. He was terribly subdued for the rest of the day and into the following days.

No, he does not stalk the swallows anymore.

Being in an area without any swell was a welcome break. Off we went for a dinghy cruise around the islands where we were anchored. The scenery was again lovely. The mainland having steep jungle slopes with some homes along the shore. 

There was a ferry dock on the mainland where one could get the ferry from across the bay to go to Puntarenas. The ferry dock set up was interesting as it included sand bags and weights to lower and raise the dock. 

Around the other side of the isla was a fishing village which looked colourful, but we just passed by. 

There were many tiny isles where colonies of frigate birds were nesting and enjoying their solitude.

Further along we came to an out crop of rocky isles where pelicans were relaxing from their fishing.

Overall the dinghy trip around was very enjoyable.

The bay we were anchored in had a floating restaurant. It was a set up that neither of us had never seen before. We set off for lunch on our second day.

The folks there were a combination of family and friends that jointly owned and ran the restaurant plus “fish/shrimp/oyster farm”. They greeted us warmly and down we sat for lunch. 

After ordering we saw the waitress walk out along the pontoons to the men that were attending them. She started literally fishing for John’s fish lunch. Of course we were curious, John walked out to watch. A couple of fish were caught and back she came. 

On her return she showed me all that they had on offer in the “pens” or baskets. There were fish of course, also lobsters, oysters, shrimp, and a conch type shell that I had never seen before. 

We watched the men, they were netting the fish in one pen and delivering them to another. Plus pulling up the netting at the bottom of one pen to clean off all the growth. 

Our lunch was amazing! John had whole fish fried, with salad and potato. I had shrimps fried, a wonderful salad and French fries. Everything was cooked to perfection. Plus we had a fresh pineapple juice for our drink.

 

 

 

John chatted with the men – Abito, working the fish pens and arranged for one of them to give us a panga ride into the ferry dock and back the next day.

We wanted to go into the nearby town for fuel and supplies. Abito also arranged for another friend who is a taxi driver to pick us up at the dock and cart us around in his taxi. 

Next morning, just before 9:00 the panga driver arrived and off we headed to the ferry dock. We arrived and soon after we were whisked off in the taxi to the nearby town. Our main aim was to get the 6 diesel jugs filled and the gasoline jug topped up. 

The driver was wonderful, we stopped first at the ATM. Next the grocery store where we picked up essentials, across the road we went to the Panaderia for bread and finally the gas station.

The jugs were all lined up in the boot, so the attendant insisted on filling them where they were. John remembers discussing how much fuel he wanted in each jug.

John believed he had explained, 5 gallons in each jug, but something was lost in the translation…..we had half the amount in each jug, 5 liters, in each. Seeing as the jugs were in the boot, John never found out till we got back……..part 2 Along the Costa Rican coast next 

“You’re either going to live the life chosen or the life assigned. I want you to live the life chosen.”

“In this world, it is not what we take up, but what we give up that makes us rich.”

Henry Ward Beecher

 

PHOTOS —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/L5g25K93mENAvLdn9

Golfito, 

While still awaiting the arrival of the new engine part, we got on with what we needed and wanted to get done, plus enjoyed all the beautiful parrots and macaws we saw everyday.

Dinghy wheels are a real necessity on the Pacific side with the tides being quite formidable. Taking advantage of being attached to a dock at Banana Marina, John hauled the dinghy out and proceeded to attach our new wheels. Our next step was to try them out.

We went across to the peninsular opposite Banana Bay had a look around the bay with its amazingly, green, foliage, from the mangroves at the shoreline to the mammoth trees covering the hillsides. 

When reaching the bar area we chose a spot and ran the dinghy ashore. All went well, the wheels made it much easier to pull the dinghy’s weight up the beach. Admittedly there was no surge, nor any rollers to contend with. 

The beach was covered with tiny crabs and their amazing, sand art. I was fascinated by the symmetry of each crab’s sand trail.

The beach area was really quite shabby. It must be what’s been left from a camp of some sort. 

To break the week up and relieve the boredom:

we again rented a car.

On our first day trip we drove up through the mountains along a roadway that wound around and around affording us some lovely views of the slopes and valleys around.

Wilson Botanical Gardens

The Robert and Catherine Wilson Botanical Garden has a rich, internationally recognized collection of tropical plants from around the world. Over 1,000 genera in more than 200 plant families form the unique collection that is an integral part of the Las Cruces Research Station. There are hundreds of bromeliads and orchids; dozens of philodendrons and other aroids of all sizes; scores of heliconias; plus ferns, gingers, marantas, giant bamboo and close 500 species of palms well represented on the 12-hectare (30-acre) site.

The Wilson Botanical Garden is part of “La Amistad Biosphere Reserve” that encompasses 472,000 hectares of park land and buffer zones centered in the southern Talamanca mountain range in Costa Rica’s South Pacific.”

Was our planned visit today. We arrived and were greeted by a friendly receptionist, given a map and off we went.

Our first stop was the observation tower, walking along a beautiful pathway in the shade of huge trees we both enjoyed the walk.

From the tower we could see all across the adjoining mountain slope, off far into the distance.

Not surprisingly all ahead was greens or every hue and shade as far as one could see.

We followed several other pathways around other areas, starting with area:

E the bamboo, as it was sign posted. One clump of bamboo was amazingly enormous, not only in height but also each stalk/branch was massive.

Quite incredible considering it’s a part of the grass family. 

D – Dracaenas, was the next pathway which looped around through wonderful gardens and headed to the dining room for lunch. 

Lunch was a set menu with a set price and it was excellent. Lasagna, salad, cauliflower and a ginger cake dessert. We were both surprised that there were no other guests. And were guessing it was because of it being low season. 

After lunch we continued our explorations of the exquisite gardens starting with the pathway F. Gingers.

On our way we saw a few Agouti. They were hunting through the brush for berries and nuts to eat. Such cute animals, looking like a huge Guinea pig but with the legs of a short deer. 

The gingers flowers were very impressive, with so many varieties and all under the huge, shade, trees which made for a lovely, walk.

Marantas were the next area, followed by Bananas. Our final loop took in the bromeliads, which I love!

The orchids were a bit of a disappointment as they were in locked greenhouses, but we had a peek of a few.

We finished off by passing  through the butterfly garden,

where we saw enormous honey bees. And finally the glasshouse with the differing cactus. 

As we were leaving we noticed the clouds moving in from across the mountains and sure enough misty rain began to fall followed by the regular late afternoon downpour.

Back at the boat it was as if we had never left. Chico had made many new friends. This time they were the folks going and coming from fishing trips. They loved Chico, he was very happy to be admired!

Day 2

Piedras Blancas National park and mountain drive:

Piedras Blancas National park was our destination for the morning. We needed to find the park entrance.

I had googled and researched with my best results being it was near the settlement of La Gamba. Off we went up the incredibly, rough, mountain road/track out of the end of town.

Again the slopes were so amazingly, green, jungle foliage, lush and dense, trees and vines with steep sided gorges and streams pouring down.

Nearing the top we followed a road that branched off and was sign posted Piedro Blancas National Park. We did pass through what I guessed was the settlement where we thought the palm oil workers lived. This led to acres and acres of palm oil fincas.

The farms or fincas as they are called stretched for as far as one could see. There were also a few small cattle farms with the cattle enjoying the lush pastures. 

Palm oil

We encountered a fellow with a couple of horses that had baskets on their back where the palm oil fruits were being carried. He was trying to get a colt to the side of the lane so as we could pass.

We also saw where the palm oil “crop” was being stored.

The massive acres of palm oil stretched for miles. Neither of us had realized it was such an important crop in Costa Rica. 

We had seen in the town of Golfito many huge trucks used for transporting the oil to a storage facility. Plus we had seen a ship along side the town dock where other tankers were loading the oil.

Upon looking it up we learnt:

“In many areas in Southern Costa Rica where banana used to be cultivated, African palm has taken over. Palma Tica, (Grupo Numar), owns some 35,000 hectares, and the Farmers United in Co-opeagropal some 10,000 hectares.”

After not finding the Piedras Blancas National park entrance we headed towards the mountains to enjoy some cooler temperatures.

The beginning part of the drive had us driving along side a massive river, the Sierpe River. It was a brown water river flowing down from the mountains through an impressive gorge which we drove along, stopping for photos of course.

By this time we were getting hungry and so started to look for a lunch stop. Neither of us wanted to stop at the roadside cafes, but wanted something more exciting. 

Further along we saw a sign which looked interesting, “Chocuacos”

Chocuacos

Turning onto a very, steep, downhill, dirt track, I was a bit freaked out, as there was no-way we could turn around if we had to. By then we were committed and down and down we went until we came to a lovely lagoon, with waterlilies outside an attractive restaurant. 

Chocuacos turned out to be a delightful family venture. The Dad had reforested a cattle farm and built the restaurant next to the old cattle pond that is fed from a fresh water spring.

We both enjoyed looking around, chatting with the family and having an excellent lunch. And I loved all the water birds seen around the lagoon.

Plus there were bats roosting on the inside of the restaurant area. They were so sweet, just hanging up above us.

Believe it or not, but, after lunch, we found our car windshield had a busted area. The culprit was a mango off the tree under which we had parked!

The rest of the afternoon we drove through the mountains enjoying the views and the cooler mountain air.

until eventually the clouds descended, and the afternoon rain arrived.

A few days later our engine part arrived. It had sat in the city San Jose for a week……

John got everything back together. The engine was great, better than ever with less rattle.

John went to the Port Captain as here in Costa Rica you need a zarpe from port to port. They like to know where visiting boats are located. It took 2 days to be completed. And finally we were ready to move on.

4. Costa Rica boasts an intriguing legend surrounding the Blue Morpho butterfly: some indigenous communities believe that encountering a Blue Morpho brings good luck and symbolizes a visit from departed loved ones.

5. Beyond its reputation for relaxation, “Pura Vida” is also a philosophy deeply ingrained in Costa Rican culture, encouraging individuals to embrace life’s simple pleasures and prioritize happiness over material wealth.

16. Within the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve lies a hidden wonder: the “Enchanted Tree,” a centuries-old strangler fig believed by locals to possess mystical powers and serve as a guardian of the forest.