Chiapas, Mexico

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Chiapas, Mexico

Puerto Chiapas is the southernmost port on Mexico’s Pacific coast, the closest port to the Guatemalan border, was our entry port into Mexico. It is relatively new port, built in 1975, and is the primary hub from which the region’s agricultural goods.

We chugged down the channel leading to the Chiapas marina. Along the way we saw the massive commercial fishing boats along the port’s dock.

Chiapas marina

Soon after arriving we were visited by differing departments of the government. We had the Port Captain,

the Navy, the Agricultural department and customs.

By the time they had all visited and finished it was later in the afternoon. I still hadn’t eaten lunch, nor had we set up the boat. The Agricultural guy was the worse.

He was stuck on Chico, fixated on the documentation. He took photos of every page of Chico’s passport and then wanted to know why there wasn’t evidence of flea and worm medication for every month! In the end I just shrugged my shoulders. He then took a black bag and filled it with frozen chicken, mince beef, plus fruit like tangerines and limes, all from our fridge and freezer.

The next day we spent literally hours in the marina office. More hours going to the officials in the nearby town, Puerto Madero, admittedly we were with a couple from Denmark who were checking in off of a schooner Neptun that had 11 volunteers from all over the world aboard.

Finally the following day, day 3 we finished off by being taken to the Port Captain’s office where we spent several hours awaiting whatever paper they needed to finalize. Mexico has a terrific amount of BS buracrocy. Finally we were free.

We had filled in the time while awaiting the Mexican authorities by taking a few walks around the marina. There was the typical boatyard, boring to me, interesting for John.

There was a small peninsular that leads down the side of the entrance chanel. From there we could see the locals fishing on the mud flats across the channel and the distant dock of Puerto Madero.

While walking along this path I did spy several pairs of beautiful blue birds. I later found out they were Black Throated Magpie Jays. These were of interest to me, but of little interest to John.

We also enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the marina restaurant Baos. The food was excellent.

Tapachula

Tapachula, the closest city to the marina is the second-largest city in the state of Chiapas. It is a brilliant place to stock up with absolutely everything and anything needed.

On our forth day, being free on of buerocrats we got a taxi into the city. The previous night there had been a terrific amount of rain. John caught 5ins in our rain gauge.

Anyway, our taxi had caught rain too, our back seat and backsides were quite wet. We drove through deep puddles on our way in. You had to laugh it was just so funny like riding in a car down river.

The grocery store was in a massive mall and it was incredibly big. Neither of us had ever see a grocery store as big before and with such low prices. Consequently we were 2 hours in that 1 store just navigating our way around and selecting our purchases.

We were very pleased at what we could find. This might be as Tapachula and its suburbs are very multicultural, having benefitted over the last 150 years by Japanese, Chinese, and German immigration.

While at the marina we used the same driver several times. His taxi might leak, but he was a really good sport driving us where ever, waiting for us and with reasonable rates.

Chico’ friends

Chico, well what a cat he is…. He saw all the young folk off of the sailing vessel Neptun…..especially all the young ladies AND every day morning and night he would charge off of Aeeshah and flop at their feet. He wanted a belly rub and to be adored by the lovely humans AND the young ladies obliged. One laid down on the dock with him as she feltl he was nearly as big as was….

Then off he goes and makes friends with Irene and the baby, plus the cats and dog off of another cruiser’s boat. In the end everyone, cats included were adoring him daily. He was one happy cat.

Playa Linda

We were looking for a place to walk as there isn’t much area around our marina. And Playa Linda, we were told, is located a few miles from the marina.

The road leading to Playa Linda is straight, narrow from over growth and in the over growth there are mounds of trash. We walked, but with traffic skimming past, stinky trash and steaming heat we flagged down a ride.

The ride was in a type of tuk-tuk, really similar, but a bike towing a trolley to sit in. We’ve now found that they are auto rigshaws, Tuk-tuks otherwise known as bicitaxis, ciclotaxis, golfitaxis or tricitaxis and they are great fun to ride.

Arriving at Playa Linda we walked across the sands towards the ocean and found a steeply sloping beach with rough seas.

Unfortunately there was quite a bit of trash along with the drift wood, just the way of things now. Enjoying the beach for a short stretch we returned to the road, again the heat was terrific.

After buying a lovely cool drink in a tienda we returned to the marina on the front of a bicitaxi.

Cruisers Thanks Giving

Several of the cruisers at the marina sent out an invitation to one and all for a Thanksgiving get together at the pool and barbecue area.

Everyone came and brought food. Two turkeys were barbecued to pefrection, the side dishes were all wonderful and dessert excellent. We all enjoyed each other’s company for the afternoon and evening.

A day out site seeing

Paul and Coleen, a couple we had previously met in Nicaragua, invited us to go on an outing with a local guide Miguel. Of course we jumped at the opportunity!

Miguel picked us up at 8:00 am, he had instructed us not to eat any breakfast as we were going to be fed well.

Off we drove, along the way Miguel told us about the area we were in, that there was enough arable flat land for cattle, and to grow massive crops of mangoes, corn, sugar cane and so many banana plantations that Chiquita has two of its own huge branded cranes in the port for the weekly freighter load that leaves for the US and Canada.

Also that there is enough water that the dams in Chiapas provide 55% of all of Mexico’s hydroelectric power.

Further along, passing the unusual looking church/temple with the copper dome in Tapuchula, he stopped for me to take a pic and told us it was run by a religious group similar to the Mormon faith.

Stopping alongside a second church we were told this was the María Candelaria church, built in 1808, still an important church for the area.

We turned out of the city and were soon at what looked like a farm, which was the site of:

Izapa

The archaeological site of Izapa, which dates back to 1500 BC. Thus making it as old as the oldest confirmed Olmec sites.

The theory is that when the Olmec people arrived here, indigenous people already lived in the area, instead of fighting them the Olmec people intermarried and traded knowledge with them, giving rise to what we know as the Mayan culture.

We walked around the differing areas of the site while Miguel explained all about the different stone relics. It was very enlightening hearing about the early indigenous folks.

Izapa was really the template for the great Mayan cities that followed. The understanding is that it was here that the very stratified Maya class structure was perfected, the language created, the shape of buildings and cities designed.

We learned that the “stepped” pyramids were used to reinforce the class structure; when gatherings were held, the highest classes stood or sat on the highest levels, and each level closer to, the ground held a lower class, with slaves relegated to the ground at the very base.

The remains of a stelae shows a prone worshipper, facing in the direction of the nearby volcano, which was revered as a god. You can see the soles of the feet and the statue’s backside.

On other stones stories are carved depicting again the beliefs of the time.

There was even proof of aqueducts being used and large stones with wells to hold the water.

Miguel showed us the fruit of one tree that was used as the dye for red.

Further along the road we came to examples of the Mayan numerals from 1 – 20 and a statue celebrating their solar beliefs.

By this time 11:30ish, I think we all were starving. And so were ever so grateful to move along and arrive at:

Chocolate experience

This was a regular Cassa in what is called Chocolate town. A town that is world famous for its chocolate production.

Inside the cassa was a very colourful front reception area where we met some of the family. One of the ladies was making chocolate blocks.

Next we passed through the kitchen area where our host was making our meal. We watched her make the torllias on the hot flour covered grill.

Across from her the tamales were being put together for our meal.

Passing along we came to the lovely garden area where we were to have our brunch.

Once, seated at the table we were served hot chocolate, tamales were wonderful, delicious. Stuffed with cheese, chicken, an olive, an egg, a prune inside a type of cornbread that were wrapped in a special leaf.

The side dishes were mole, which is a black bean purée, chili salsa, fresh cheese, and cooked plantains. The cheese and plantains were actually to be eaten together and were a delicious blend. The tamales too were excellent! (John and I had been a bit septicel after I once opened a tamale in Guatemala and found a chicken’s foot.)

Tamales actually originate in Mexico:

“Tamales are part of Mexico’s national identity along with tacos. They’ve been part of Mexican culture since pre-Hispanic times; however, they not only have a cultural significance but a religious one too. In pre-Hispanic times, Mesoamerican cultures used tamales as offerings to gods or to their dead loved ones”

“To traditional Christian believers, each tamale can be considered a metaphor or symbol for the Holy Virgin. After all, every real Mexican tamale must have an olive in it. On one level, that olive represents the Christ child waiting to be born — as he is every year at Christmas”

After our fun and enjoyable meal we were treated to the chocolate making process that many generations of the familiy’s women had followed. The lady showing us the process had twice been to Europe due to her excellent chocolate making!

We were shown the coca trees, flowers and fruit, presented with the coca fruit to eat. Which is excellent tasting.

Next the rest of the fruit was made into a wonderful drink for us. And then we were shown the steps for chocolate making:

1st steps

Roast coca beans, remove the husks.

Next steps

Grind the inside to a paste, roll the paste into disks, and lastly add any other ingredients eg: sugar, cimmonen, etc

It was a wonderful lunch and presentation.

Lunch/visit to Puerto Madero

Off to Puerto Madero we went with a few friends to have a look at the town and enjoy lunch. The restaurant was right off the sea front and very rustic.