PHOTOS ——>>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/gidKt6w53VobKtpQ8

Bahia Santa Elena

The passage to Bahia San Elana was lovely. The shoreline and off shore islands looked to be wild and exotic.

This enormous bay was our pit-stop before heading to Nicaragua. We wanted to explore the area as it is all national park, “The Parque National Santa Rosa” and totally uninhabited.

This area had recently been designated a Marine Management Area which meant the bay would be reserved for specific purposes. These include the conservation of marine life. 

Bahia Santa Elena is 732-hectare. It is a breeding area for several marine species, including dolphins, whales, and turtles. Plus the endangered whale shark and several species of rays breed here and are seen here. 

Our explorations were in the dinghy. The day was absolutely lovely, sunny, with just the right amount of clouds in the sky. We set off around the bay in a clockwise direction. Absolutely everywhere was stunningly beautiful.

Along the shores of the first side bay we did consider going ashore, but then I spotted long spined sea urchins by the hundreds sitting in the shallows. We decided to postpone our landing to the other side of the bay.

 The massive, tree-covered slopes on the northern shores were of dense jungle. We could hear howler monkeys, many, many different bird calls and insect screeches. 

Along the shores of the lower part of the bay are several river estuaries. As it was low tide there was no way we could enter the rivers, that will be for the next time. Even the shallows of the rivers were interesting and attractive.

Beyond them we could see that the foliage had changed. It was of species of plants that survive in drier climates.

We surmised that this was probably due to the Papagayo winds, or Papagayo jet as they are called, that blast through in the winter months. These wind speeds have been recorded as high as 70 mph which is just shy of hurricane strength.

We saw cormorants basking in the sun with their wings spread, babbling away to each other. 

The mangrove area that we came to was again impassable for us. There was actually supposed to be an access path to the parks maintenance trail. However we never saw any sign of any possible access.

About halfway back up the far side of the bay we were able to land the dinghy. Being low tide and no swell it was very easy. However we had to be extremely gentle as poor dinghy was damaged. 

Off we went walking the beach. The beach was enormous being as it was low tide.

We walked the shallows, plus the high tide mark where I found many Paper Nautilus shells and bleached sea eggs. I was really surprised as these were so very delicate and yet still intact after being washed ashore.

Near the low tide mark I found a lovely Rooster Conch. At first I thought it was alive, but it wasn’t. 

There were several small rivers running out across the sands and looking up them we could see creeks. We didn’t dare enter, too many bugs plus the threat of snakes.

Again no sign of a pathway that we had read about, however we found a backwards parks sign. However the foliage behind was impenetrable. 

The weather was doing its usual clouding up as the day progressed, getting ready for the regular later afternoon rain event. Back at Aeeshah we readied to leave early the next morning.

———————————————————————

Passage to Puesta Del Sol, Nicaragua

Our passage to Puesta Del Sol, Nicaragua was wonderful. We had perfect sailing wind and the seas were just a gentle roll. There were regular visits from dolphins who would race Aeeshah through the sea. The evening brought a lovely sunset.

The only challenge were the numerous fishermen with their long lines. Most of them were further off shore than we were and so easy to avoid. As the night progressed we came upon a very large group of about 18 lighted boats or vessels. They appeared to be in a group and more or less stationary in the distance. We wondered if perhaps it was some type of netting taking place, or a floating fishery where they keep the fish in nets. Once past this group again the fishing boats tended to be alone or in pairs. We were very thankful they had lights on as they do not show up on AIS or radar, plus they are silent. Without the lights we could have easily run into them.

Into the Viejo River to the marina

The sun rose on the distant shore we could see the Nicaraguan volcanos and ahead we could see where we had to enter the river. To get into Puesta Del Sol marina, (the only Harbour/landing), we had to cross a sand bar and travel up river….the Rio Viejo.

The marina directed us, Juanita whom we had been in contact with gave us very specific instructions as to where enter by sending us way-points, plus she was there to give us further info via her WhatsApp. 

The river was flowing out at quite a rapid rate, but slowly, slowly, we crept up the shores. And around the first bend we could see the marina with a few fellows awaiting our arrival. It turned out to be a very easy entry.

Once in place we were shown to the office to meet Juanita and start our check in process. 

The marina was very empty with just a few slips having boats. We headed towards the office which turned out to be in the main hotel reception area.

Again the hotel was very quiet, just a few workers around. Jaunita met with us, got our info and said the immigration, and ports folks would be along later to check us in. Customs couldn’t make it so he would just take the info via Juanita and email. 

We met with the authorities, who had driven in from the city over an hour away. Within half an hour everything was done, they left and we were officially in Nicaragua. 

The Puesto Del Sol Marina

Was 1st built in 2004 by a returning Nicaragua cruiser. The marina as far as we were concerned was nice, quiet and simple. Other than us for the 1st week, the only occupied boat was the fellow that built the marina and his wife. Then another cruising boat came in they are headed to Costa Rica. 

John was able to use the marina dock to repair our poor, sad dinghy. It is now A1 again.

The marina is attached to the hotel and grounds. These days the hotel is only open at the weekends. So we have the use of all the grounds and plus the bathrooms in the hotel reception. This makes for a very peaceful area to stay and a huge area to wander.

Across the river from the hotel pool you can see Volcán San Cristóbal. This volcano is the highest volcano in Nicaragua at 1,745 m (5,725 ft). It also forms a backdrop to the city of Chichigalpa. From the hotel, you go out the entrance gate and before you is 1 straight country road into the village. 

The village named Aserradores, (which means Sawyers)

On our first trip out we did a sort of reconnaissance mission, looking, and asking and sussing out what was around.

There are fields for cattle, pigs, horses and crops. These fields and the road are lined by lovely shady trees.

Tucked away, off the side of the country lane are the homes, 3 tiendas, a hostel, a young lady who does laundry, a bakery, a butcher’s window, and the local church.

In between are lanes leading to further homes, small farms and the beach. Yes, a very simple village, but we found after looking around that we could get nearly everything we needed. 

The bakery, Buns of Paradise, opens Monday, Wednesday and Friday. They sell very nice freshly made sourdough breads, cinnamon buns, baguettes, rolls and sweets. Going there became a Monday, Wednesday, Friday habit.

The laundry was done by a young lady using a combination of a small machine, a scrubber using hand power and a clothes line for drying. She did a wonderful job! Our clothes smelled of pure sunshine, just so clean! She has a very sweet little girl who has a chick she found as her special pet. 

Finding fruit was a bit challenging until I figured it out. They grow everything like mangoes, bananas, citrus so they really have no need to sell/buy fruit.

Therefore I started walking the marina hotel property, picking and picking up windfalls. The mangoes were wonderful if I could get them before the birds and insects. John loved having the citrus for his rum.

I didn’t wish to buy meat or chicken at the butchers. They slaughtered it right there and sold it out the front window. It was just too fresh for me. 

Beer? Cash? Diesel?

Yep the village was good for nearly everything, that was until, John needed beer, cerveza….. We had started asking in the tiendas for beer, cerveza, and we were met with shocked expressions, almost like John had said a very rude word. “No! No! Cerveza” Once outside we were met by a fellow who must have heard through the village grapevine of our search. He explained in a quiet voice, this was not allowed in this village, but we could ask at the hostel or Pirates bar. That was when we figured it out, the church…..must rule the village and beer/alcohol is the devils brew. 

The hostel sold John cold beers by the dozen. A brand new type, that he reports are very good. The hostel also serves a very decent fish/chips/salad lunch. 

The next issues to solve were we could not get money, cash. There’s no ATM or bank! Nor was there any fuel, diesel for sale. We needed more diesel to carry on towards our destination. (We do sail, but we do also like to keep the fuel tanks full, in case, just in case).

The solution was to travel to the city. However, we found out the taxis are very small cars so we had to do two trips to:

Chinandega, taxi to the city.

Our 1st trip to the city was to get cash, go to a grocery store for all we couldn’t find in the village, to go to a pharmacy and pick up a SIM card for John’s phone. We were picked up by Marvin in his little red car. The drive in was along country roads, passing fields of cattle and acres, and acres of sugar cane. Sugar seems to be a big Nicaraguan product. 

The city was buzzing with energy, traffic, bikes zipping around and folks busily going about their business. I loved the tricycles they were using as transport and taxis.

1st stop was for a SIM card, very easily purchased for $3.00, included 3 gigs for 7 days. Everything done at a roadside Claro stand/kiosk. 

2nd stop was the ATM for US cash, which you can use as well as local cash. Again, very easily done at any ATM.

3rdly we were off to the grocery store. There we found everything we needed in a large grocery store. 

4th we dropped into the pharmacy next to the grocery and I found all I wanted. Finally we drove to a small phone electronics storefront where Marvin, the driver got John his new phone jack and cable. All told the driving plus shopping took just over 3 hours. 

2 days later we once again drove to the city. This time our driver was Noel, in his little white taxi we climbed in with our fuel jugs. Again it was very easy. The fuel was very well priced at $4.50 a gallon. 

Opposite the gas station was a terrific, fruit and veg stand where I stocked up on all we needed. Plus, some fruits to try.

Fruits to try were:

Dragon fruit/ The Pitaya

 this strange looking softball sized fruit with its fluorescent reddish pink skin and overlapping scaly leaves really fascinated us. Even more fascinating was the deep magenta colored fruit inside with its tiny black edible seeds (It’s quite different to the white flesh of the Vietnamese Dragon fruit). The Pitaya is native to Costa Rica and Nicaragua where it is grown commercially for its fruit. This cactus type vine produces huge flowers that only bloom at night. This fruit was sort of like a kiwi in flavor, enjoyable.

The inside such a bright fluorescent pinky purple that it stained our stools and urine for days.

Nance fruit

 The nance fruit looks a bit like a little, yellow, cherry but bears a strong odor and unique flavor. We both like it.

Its thin flesh is golden and it encases a creamy white pulp. Apparently it can be eaten  raw or cooked, into smoothies or jams. I read that In Jamaica it is called hogberry. What’s more, nance fruit is used to make a fermented beer-like drink known as chicha in Panama and parts of Latin America.

Mamoncillo:

 Most commonly known as the Spanish lime, mamoncillo has a striking resemblance to your typical small, lime with its green skin. But it’s not a citrus fruit. This fruit it belongs to the family of lychees and rambutan. In fact, the name “mamoncillo” translates to honey berry, which it really does taste like sweet honey.

It is of the more popular Nicaraguan fruits. It is also added into desserts, beverages and jellies. Nicaraguans even roast mamoncillo seeds and eat them like water chestnuts.

Most of the days we were in Nicaragua we would go for a walk into the village. Normally finding something to pick up from the little tiendas.

Me, looking for birds, squirrels, lizards, flowers, or whatever I could photograph. I spotted and got a photo of the Nicaraguan National bird: The Guardabarranco, Torogoz or Turquoise-Browed Motmot (Eumomota superciliosa) – is the Official “National bird of Nicaragua”

Sometimes following the muddy tracks that led to further small farms or homes. I do believe we probably became know to every villager. They were all very friendly people. 

Beach

Our first excursion to the beach was a trek into the unknown. we followed a trail heading off from the marina passing under very nice shady trees, but soon found ourselves surrounded by mosquitoes. Bug repellent was a must! We passed the small fishing settlement at the side of the bay. With John navigating we followed a lane around, and about, around, and about, until, finally we went straight down a trail and there was the marina’s unused pallapa that sits at the top of the beach. 

The beach is sooo big! And it just seems to go on forever.

This area of Central America is known for its surfing beaches. We didn’t see any surfers. We walked along a ways, and then back. There was nobody about, no boats or ships out to sea, just a very wild, wide, long, beach.

Another time we walked into, then out of the village where we were joined by a very cute brown dog. Down the road and around 2 bends we followed another lane to the beach. This time coming out at the distant end.

This beach is massive! Admittedly, it was just past low tide.

We set off to walk towards the palapa. We had water with us, which in the heat was really needed. There were many shells in the shallows, plus a few folks fishing, a couple swimming and a guy in the surf on his board. By the time we got back we had covered 7 miles, 7 very hot miles. 

Afternoon rain, thunder, lightening was a daily event. On the plus side it sure cooled the temperature down. 

Chico gets ashore at last!

Chico adored the hotel grounds. By the 3rd day he had discovered to his delight he could walk across the docks and up to the garden where there was his favorite, grass.

Of course we had to limit his grass consumption as we did not want him to get blockage like he did in Bocas Del Toro.

He would walk up to the gardens most mornings and evenings when it was some what cooler. 

And then it was time to say good bye to lovely Nicaragua and the friends we had made. We want to return and travel around this amazing, peaceful country.

10 interesting facts about Nicaragua

Land of lakes and volcanoes.

Home to four World Heritage Sites.

It has colonial cities.

Home to 7% of the world’s biodiversity.

Biosphere reserves.

First Geopark in Central America is here.

It is the birthplace of the father of Hispanic modernism.

The country has around 2,000 different dishes.