Crossing the Tehuantepec, Bahias Maguey, and Organo, Acapulco and Zihuatanejo

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Passage through Tehuantepec

It was time to leave Chiapas. The Tehuantepec winds were going to lay down for a spell, enough time for us to travel through the area.

What are the Tehuantepec winds?

The challenge to our passage this time was the Tehuantepec, Tehuantepecer, or Tehuano wind, which is a violent wind. This wind occurs due to the mountain-gap of the Chivela Pass. The cold, winter, northerly winds blowing from the North American continent, are squeezed through the pass, accelerate in speed and blast out across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. This effect is most common between October and February.

Along with us were several other sailing vessels: Key Lime Pie with Pawel and Bob onboard. They had actually only arrived the previous day from El Salvador where we had met them. They were supposed to leave El Salvador with us but had been struck by lightening and so major repairs had delayed their departure. Just after arriving at Chiapas, Pawel asked when we were off, I told him that several of us were leaving the next day and so they quickly made arrangements to leave too.

Another boat Doris and his wIfe with their 2 cats and dog left with us, but had to sail back after transmission failure.

The huge schooner Neptun and crew left too but, had to return to refuel after a major fuel leak, however, yes, they were able to continue the journey.

The sailboat Intrepid with Tim, Rooster and friend onboard had a slow but successful passage. And Gobo 2 with Christian, Irene and baby went straight through too, just behind us.

Our passage started off calm, lovely just a light breeze so we were motor sailing. The seas had a gentle swell so for much of the day it was easy going.

I was just enjoying looking at the shoreline, spying massive turtles, dolphin and seabirds.

However, by the evening things started to liven up. We entered the 1st Tehuantepec area and the winds picked up, the swell increased the seas were confused with a chop on top of swell.

I, again felt lousy, nauseous and went below to lay down at around 9:30. For much of the night it was terribly rough. Just awful, the wind, swell and currents were all at odds with each other and so there were angry sea conditions.

John kept in touch with Pawel and Christian on the radio trading sea and wind conditions. It was just a matter of getting through, motor sailing as fast as was possible. Our highest winds were 30knots, which isn’t too high, but there was a nasty current against us that wind that caused very confused sea conditions, plus the chop on top. It was like being in a huge washing machine down below where I was, but finally it was all over and we did get through.

The total passage was 2 days long and it ended with lovely calm conditions as we entered the Bahia Maguay.

Maguey Bay: Bahía Maguay & Bahia Organo

Maguey Bay, is an easily accessible bay with a popular beach of the same name Bahía Maguey. A handful of busy seafood palapas line the beach, and visitors can sip cold beers on deck chairs, or splash around in the bay’s calm, clear waters.

After one wonderful, peaceful, calm night in Bahía Maguay we moved to the next bay – Bahia Organo. The weather forecast said Tehuantepec winds were due to fire up quite severely and Organo, while just next door was going to be more sheltered.

Bahia Organo is totally National Parkland. The beach is wonderful, normally with only a few visiting folks swimming and a boat or two. It is definitely the more isolated of the two bays.

The day after our arrival we went ashore by dinghy to Bahia Maguay to meet up with Pawel and Bob for lunch. It was a lovely relaxed lunch just sitting back watching the folks on the beach.

The food was great, I think everyone had a shrimp dish of some type. We walked the beach and returned to Aeeshah for a swim.

We swam every day. Yes, the sea was a bit cool at 78degrees, but it was also very refreshing too.

We walked the beaches and were intrigued by the different foliage in this region. It’s quite arid, with brush and cactus.

Off we went in the dinghy along the shorelines of the bays. The rock formations were amazing, totally different from other regions we have been in recently. It was so very nice to get back into the old cruisers routine of self sufficient living.

One morning we got a ride in Enrico’s truck from Bahia Maguay to nearest town La Crucecita. I sat up front with the driver, Enrico, and John in the back with our diesel tanks.

The area we passed through was hilly, dry brush land. The town was obviously thriving on the tourist industry. There were many big hotels, tourist busses, coaches and tourists wandering about.

Our destination was the Super Chedraui Grocery store where once again we got some basic supplies. We felt overwhelmed by the size and selection, where to start, trying not to get distracted. Next stop was the gas station where we filled the diesel jugs. A short but fun trip out.

Neptun arrived in the bay where we were, it was good to see everyone again even though we never got to chat.

Pawel and Bob on Key Lime Pie, left the day before we did.

We went ashore to explore and followed the pathway that led from the beach. John wanted to see what was at the end.

Well, it was a very normal pathway and it led to a road…..

Chachacual bay: Playa India & Playa Chachacua

The following day we headed to the Playa India area. We had been told about the lovely bay which is all National Parkland. Our passage there was only an hour, again the shoreline was beautiful beaches and rugged cliffs.

We had been warned that Playa India could be extremely busy during parts of the day with tourists. When we arrived there were already several pangas and tour boats setting up on the beach so we anchored in the neighboring bay Playa Chachacual, the larger of the two.

Inaccessible by land, Chachacual bay has two beaches: the easterly Playa La India is one of the Huatulco’s area most beautiful stretches of sandy beach. And apparently one of the area best places for snorkeling. The much larger Playa Chachacual reputable has strong sea currents. (Which I can attest to)

Both beaches are within the national park hopefully they remain undeveloped.

We made a very wise decision to anchor off of Playa Chachacual as during the day there were many pangas, several very large tour boats, all coming in and out from the beach areas where they had set up chairs, umbrellas and such.

We took the dinghy and did a tour of both bays and both were absolutely lovely. We dropped the dinghy’s anchor off of Playa Chachacual and went ashore. We walked the beach, first along the top of the dunes where we saw masses of turtle nests. Some nests were new and we could see the turtle tracks leading up and then down the dunes.

This was a very long beach, at the other end the tour boats had set up camps for their passengers. There were mini bars and food stands plus chair and umbrellas for all to enjoy. We strolled past and then back up the beach to the dinghy.

Passage to Acapulco

After our previous not so comfortable passages we were treated to a perfectly comfortable 48 hour passage. The weather was perfect and we were even able to sail for most of the night.

Arriving in Acapulco we were 1st amazed by the size of the city,

it stretches for miles. It is set in a large bay backed by high-rises and the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains.

2ndly we were surprised by the surrounding Sierra Madre del Sur mountains,

and 3rdly, by the shocking hurricane damage, for example one can see straight through the high rise buildings.

ACAPULCO

“Sitting on one of the largest bays in Mexico, is the country’s original vacation destination. In the 1950s and 60s Hollywood’s elites came to Acapulco to play. The likes of Cary Grant, Elizabeth Taylor, Rita Hayworth are just a few who chose Acapulco for their vacation. We would have loved to see it back then. Unfortunately, Acapulco has lost favour with international travelers, but it is still the preferred vacation getaway for residents of Mexico.”

A walk around the area.

Our exploits ashore were just around the immediate area, and along the waterfront where the fishermen keep their boats. We saw some pretty amazing catches, the wahoo were an unbelievable size.

We could see how the towns folk were working hard to repair all the damage from the hurricane.

We wandered into a plaza where all sorts was happening, booths selling knick knacks, refreshments, an ice rink being set up and more.

There was a very ornate church that was conducting a service.

We bought our groceries from a nearby tienda and found a place for lunch. Once again it wasn’t Mexican fare, but was yummy.

The La Quebrada cliff divers

We decided to walk through the city and over the hilltop to visit the Acapulco divers for the 1:00pm performance. They dive from a La Quebrada cliff, these professional divers plunge 40m into a small ocean cove every day and night.

Leaving early we first found a small roadside cafe for lunch. It was set up in front of a home and while it did serve tacos, that wasn’t until 5:00pm, so we settled for shrimp. The lunch was great, $20 for both of us plus my lemonada and John’s cevasa.

The area where the divers perform is a narrow inlet, cliffs on all side with the swell surging in.

We entered at the top and walked down to the bottom level so as we were opposite the diving cliff. I never imagined that the divers would come down to the area where we awaited them, but they did and they climbed over the wall right next to me.

Heading right down the cliff space they then, one at a time, dove into the surging sea below. A couple of them took a few minutes to pick up the debris floating in the gully.

After which one by one the scrambled right up the cliff face opposite, and this is a sheer cliff face! They made it look effortless, no problem at all.

At the top they each had dive positions, but before they took a dive they kissed the statue of the Holy Mother for god’s blessings.

One at a time they started to dive from different vantage points.

A swan dive, then a back flip followed by two diving at once.

It was incredible! Absolutely spectacular! Like unbelievable to see them gracefully spring off the cliff above and glide down into the surf below.

The last fellow took the highest post and swooped down the face of the cliff like a bird, just amazing.

If you ever get the chance to see them go!

The history behind the Acapulco diver:

In 1934, Two fishermen began the tradition by challenging each other to jump from the cliffs. The divers performing in shows today are descendants from those original divers. In fact, only those related to the original divers are allowed in the prestigious group. Divers begin training as young as 5 years and continue for as long as they are able. Knowledge of the cliffs, currents and diving techniques are passed down from generation to generation. Ranging in age from 15 to 70 years old there are at least 75 divers that perform in the daily shows and this includes both men and women. They dive from cliffs ledges of between 98ft and 135 ft.

Overnight to Zihuatanejo

We left Acapulco and basically glided along during most of the passage. There were flocks of sea birds feeding on schools of fish, John was positive there was a whale shark below the surface too.

Yes, again we had a smooth, peaceful passage being able to sail on the breeze from the land at night. A short passage and an easy arrival into the bay at Zihuatanejo.

Christmas Season in Zihuatanejo

Zihuatanejo is another resort city on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, northwest of Acapulco. It’s known for its beaches, like the sweeping Playa La Ropa, which is backed by palm trees.

Galleries, crafts and seafood restaurants line the city’s winding,

colourful, lanes. We enjoyed going ashore and strolling the many walkways and streets, many of which are just for pedestrians.

The arts and crafts were a wonderfull array of just every type. The hand woven rugs, ceramics and silver jewelry are amazing. Definitely a thriving tourist town Zihuatanejo or Zwhat as its affectionately referred to is a wonderful destination.