Off to El Salvador

PHOTO ALBUM:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6FFoZFXibrdwWq1C7

We left Puesto Del Sol Marina, chugged down the river and were out into the Pacific again. The plan was to head into a bay at the very northern end of Nicaragua.

The day was another mix of weather. It started partly cloudy, became cloudless and then towards the end of our passage along back came all the clouds bringing a threat of rain. We passed around the point before the bay, seeing many fishermen and being careful to avoid the lines. These guys were using flags and buoys from their long lines.

Punta el Rosario

Was our intension to stop for the night in a sheltered bay behind Punta el Rosario. No sooner than I had reached the bow, ready to drop the anchor than there was a patrol boat with mounted machine guns and 6 troops aboard.

Of course we had to drop anchor, put out fenders and allow their Lieutenant to come aboard. After showing him our documents, him seeing we were legal, he phoned his superior. He asked if we may stay in the bay for the night. His superior did not advise it as the nearby fishing village had had some problems. They mentioned bandits and I gathered there had been theft issues. They said that it would be a huge temptation for the local fishermen to have a boat like ours anchored nearby.

We decided to head off across the Golfo De Fonseca to Isla Meanguera to anchor near the village on the Isla.

These islands being on the El Salvador side of the bay. The Golfo De Fonseca is a large gulf which has Nicaragua on one side, Honduras in the middle and El Salvador.

It was already 4:30 and we knew we only had a good few hours of daylight left. Unfortunately as we approached the isles not only did it become dark, but the regular heavy rain clouds drew in and it started to pour. We were totally reliant on the Navionics tracks for navigation around the isle and into the bay, just crossing our fingers, hoping there were no buoys or other obstacles in front of us. I stood on the bow with a head lamp and a torch looking out, but with the heavy rain it was near impossible to see any distance. Finally we were we thought we wanted to be, I managed to drop the anchor, we held, and were set for the night. What was near us? We didn’t know, so we just had faith in our Navionics.

Isla Meanguera

We found our selves in a very lovely bay. It was sheltered, calm, with a few houses and fishing boats. We ended up staying 2 nights at Isla Meanguera.

The night we arrived and a second night during which we had the worst possible thunder, lightning, rain, wind event. It was even scary for John who swore that when he was at the stern the lightening hit the rocks just behind us.

Finally we received word that we could cross the bar into El Salvador.

We sailed over night towards the bar, but again encountered dozens of fishing boats.

These boats were everywhere and of every size. The large commercial fishing boats were further off shore with the smaller ones closer in.

Luckily they did have lights on, but it meant we were dodging them all night long. Again John did the middle part of the night.

Crossing the bar

I was up at 4:30am and on watch enjoying a lovely sunrise. Yes, the fishing boats were still around.

By 7:30am we arrived at our rendezvous point with a few hours to spare. We tried anchoring but John was very concerned its having Aeeshah rolling all over the places which meant everything was strained and stressed including us. The answer was to make way at a knot out to sea for an hour and then return.

Finally our pilot boat arrived, the waiting was quite stressful for both of us. Probably more so for John who was sleep deprived.

Off we set at full throttle following the pilot boat and before we knew it we were across the worst of the swell. Our top speed was nearly 11 knots!

By the time I got the buoys and ropes readied, fastened to Aeeshah we were dockside at the marina. We received a very warm welcome from everyone there….and gosh there was quite a number of folks.

There were the authorities, Bill and Jean, various cruisers and believe it or not a waiter Oscar holding a tray of delicious looking drinks.

Hotel Bahia Del Sol Marina

John went off with the authorities to check us in and I sorted out Aeeshah. It was the easiest entry into a country we had ever experienced!

The marina/hotel is very nice. The grounds run from the river across to the Pacific on the other side. There are several pools and bars, a daily buffet, 2 other restaurants,

plus one can just have a tab for payment at the end of the month.

We have enjoyed walking around the lovely grounds.

Being on the river but close to the sea the marina is naturally affected by the tide. The tides in the Pacific are very steep. In other words there is either a great loss of water or a massive flow in. The wash by our dock was quite scary, you would not want to fall in.

We found out that the water at the docks was not potable, we needed water and couldn’t make it under the circumstances. So, we called the waterman.

He delivered the water which we shall now use, but we still catch our own drinking water with a water catch system I devised.

After about a week we finally were able to lower the dinghy and head up river for a brief visit to Bill and Jean’s property.

We are looking forward to further river explorations.

San Salvador

A few trips to the city were necessary, we needed a new AC. Ours had been drenched when in Nicaragua and so the electronics no longer worked. We also needed another fuel container for the dinghy. Ours had been stolen when we were in the marina in Nicaragua. It was our 1st night at the marina, the dinghy was way up the top of the davits, well secured. Someone, during the night, managed to climb up, unattached the fuel lines from the tank, neatly coil them up, plus fold up the fuel tank cover and leave with our fuel tank. Thus we needed a new fuel tank.

Finding either proved to be impossible. We had rented a car, driven into San Salvador and visited all of the recommended AC dealers and hardware stores, absolutely nothing. The ACs were all split systems and not suitable for a boat. We did finally locate a fuel tank for the dinghy.

Also in the city we were able to stock up on supplies as the city has large well stocked grocery stores, near the marina are very small tiendas.

Plus we visited the Artisans market and found some lovely gifts to take home. The folks there were so very friendly and helpful. There were many wonderful arts and crafts.

The city was quite easy for us to navigate around. It was interesting seeing the different areas.

There were lovely murals on walls, the tall Google building and the Arts Museum looks very interesting for a future visit.

The drive there and back was colorful too. Many stands selling plastic beach toys were set up along the Costa del Sol. Further along dozens of coconuts for sale, further still water melons were being offered.

A walk to the end of Costa Del Sol

Costa Del Sol is the peninsular and beach where our marina is located. The peninsular is a good 40 minute drive, the beach is 15 kilometers long. It is a favorite beach holiday area. One morning we took a walk to the end of the peninsula, Costa Del So, from the marina. It is actually not a long walk just about 1.5 kms.

The road there is lined with an odd collection of small farms, luxury resorts and ruins of what must have been fancy homes.

At the end where the mouth is located and the beach starts we found many small palapas which are used mainly at weekend and holidays to serve foods, some small tiendas and water taxis all there to cater to the visitors.

The beach itself is covered in driftwood littered with trash. We guessed this was from the river? I did find some shells and we enjoyed beach walking.

We stopped under what was set up as a life guards and enjoyed the shade for a while.

We enjoyed a refreshing drink while enjoying watching the venders and locals just enjoying the local colour.

Again we look forward to further walks to the beach when we return. I just hope it cools down a bit by then……

Don and Andy arrive:

Don and Andy are our Chico and Aeeshah sitters/minders while we travel home this summer.

They arrived a few days before we were due to fly home. We drove into the city to meet them from their bus.

Off we went to lunch and then to the grocery store so that they could get a few basics for staying on the boat.

Back at the marina we briefed them on Aeeshah and Chico.

MacDonald’s for lunch

The day before we left we all went in the dinghy to the local “MacDonald’s”. This was a very rustic restaurant in the middle of a sand bar in the river. Near the marina and the river mouth is a sandbar with a collection of restaurants all on stilts. Why the stilts? The rise and fall from the tides…..