Along the Costa Rican Pacific coast, Pt. 2

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Playa Pallena, Tamber

We succeeded with our dinghy landing on the beach! We chose what looked to be the calmest area. John prepped the wheels ahead of time, (they are best 1/2 way down), had the engine 1/2 way up, we aimed for the shore and tried to time our landing with the surf.

It wasn’t the perfect landing but we landed. We pulled the dingy as far up as was possible and off we walked to look around the area.

Actually we found 2 grocery stores, they were not very big but they had essentials. We also found a restaurant and several lovely homes.

For our walk back we followed a lane that ran above the beach in the shade of the trees. The shade makes all the difference especially when carrying groceries.

We noticed a fellow out in one of the fishing-kayaks that we had previously noticed off shore of Panama.

Chatting with him he told us he was part of the 1st International fishing kayak competition that was happening right there in the bay on Saturday.

Saturday being just 2 days away we were still anchored in the bay waiting for calmer offshore seas. Well, several kayaker so chose to cast for live bait right off our boat.

Chico was fascinated!

I believe he would have gladly joined them.

Chatting with the ones around our boat we learnt a bit about the sport which is apparently becoming quite popular. The kayaks are equipped with all the latest gagets.

In the mean time we had been for a dinghy around the massive bay even going the 2 miles to the beach on the far side. Going ashore was not an option the rollers were far too big.

The scenery was magnificent.

Another walk took us to the fishermen’s dock.

The whole set up was very interesting and new to us. One of the fishermen explained to me that their long lines are 3 kilometers long, with each holding 300 hooks. That they go out everyday of the year.

The moorings weights they had were quite something, huge tires filled with concrete. They tie the pangas from the moorings to the main dock for easier access.

We had lunch ashore twice, the sea food was wonderful, cooked to perfection.

After lunch we would go for a beach and river walk.

The beaches are not what we are used to, but wilder, absolutely massive and covered in drift wood and sea shells. I really enjoyed the shell hunting and rock hunting.

There are many semi precious stones to be found on Costa Rican Pacific shores. Common beach stone include Dolomite, Quartz, Serpentine and Syenite, plus Red Jasper

We found some unusual rocks next to the river and some were some very unusual rocks!

We also enjoyed watching the locals fishing where the river ran into the sea. They cast lines and use hand nets to catch the fish. I’m still not sure what type of fish they were catching.

And then there were the birds, beautiful birds all around. Our favorite were still the Scarlet Macaws.

Bahia Samara

We found Bahia Samara to be a very lovely anchorage, quite well sheltered from the seas by a reef and island, so just a bit rolly, with an amazing beach and hotel behind the palm trees.

Again we lucked out with a wonderful, sunny, morning so off we went in the dinghy to the beach for a walk.

What a fantastic beach walk we had!!

The beach is 2 miles long, we never walked the entire length, just as far as the river which was about halfway.

I was so very happy to find quite a few more lovely shells.

There was drift wood, everywhere, but no trash to speak of. Horses to rent if we so chose, further down cafes for lunch, and miles of beach to explore.

Needless to say we had a lwonderful few hours wandering the beach.

That late afternoon, evening and till about 9:00pm we had a crazy, thunder, lightening event. It was the worst either John or had ever experienced.

Lightening flashing all around and above, thunder so loud it was nearly painful, and for hours the wind and rain lashed Aeeshah. The thunder finally faded, but the rain stayed through the night.

Bahai Flamingo, Potrero

was our next stop. Once again this was a calm anchorage. We were there to pick up a few supplies, mainly beer for John, as he had nearly run out. There was a long beach with restaurants above. Across the bay was a very pretentious marina who do not welcome cruisers even for fuel.

The beach landing was fairly easy. I do believe we are mastering this skill. We find a falling tide is the best tide for landing.

At the top of the beach we found a road and followed it towards where we believed there was a grocery. The grocery turned out to be one of the best stocked we had seen, expensive, but that’s Costa Rica.

Cocos

Was supposed to be our final stop in Costa Rica, but the weather just didn’t oblige. Cocos, is a massive bay with a very long beach with the town behind.

It is probably the nicest town we have seen so far, very touristy with character too. Again everyone is very helpful and friendly.

We had 2 days of more or less constant rain. However we did get ashore, another successful dinghy landing on a beach.

Actually the beach landing is just off the small dock in the middle of the beach and is partially sheltered by a reef. So, we have learnt to go when the tide is dropping as the surf is less. High tide or rising tide and it’s dangerous.

We enjoyed wandering around the town. Found a few excellent groceries, the Chinese grocery was even reasonably priced. Plus we enjoyed a few lunches ashore, the food was excellent.

In this region there are several massive bays that brag to being calm. We decided to head off for a few days to:

Bahia Nacascolo in Papaguayo Bay.

This bay is just enormous, and at Bahia Nasacolo there was no swell. The bay is all beach when the tide is low, but when it is high there is no beach to be seen.

The only downfall of Bahia Nasacolo is that there are jet skis for rent. And they allow just anybody of any age it seemed to do crazy stuff. Little kids driving while dad hung on behind and sometimes got flipped off when the kid did sharp bends. Of course they also came way too close to us.

Other than the jet skis the bay was magnificent. There were howler monkeys in the trees calling out, schools of fish jumping around us, sea birds swooping, and calm seas lapping.

The weather is always, well nearly always lovely in the mornings. Then in the afternoons the thunder showers move around. Sometimes just over the land, sometimes from across the bay. By evening it is usually calm and cooler which makes for a comfortable night.

One morning we enjoyed an outing to a neighboring beach during low tide and walked as far as we could. I was very happy again being able to look for shells, beans and pretty stones.

Another morning we walked Playa Nacasolo and area behind the beach.

Costa Rica really is well set up for its tourists and residents that go to the beach.

The facilities are excellently maintained with bins for trash, manicured pathways and transport right to the beach.

Again this was a very pleasant walk on the beach and through the trees behind.

Cocos again:

Back to Cocos after a few days of calm water. We wanted to stock up and get organized to leave. But the weather just wasn’t co-operating. We need the settled weather, along with swell less than a meter, and a high tide at the right time of day for us to cross the bar in El Salvador. So, instead of playing waiting game a waiting game it looks like it’s going to be Nicaragua for now.

Off to the beach early in the morning in order to get fuel. That proved to be quite easy. We got a great taxi driver Henry. He took us with our jugs. John made sure the right amount was put into the jugs this time. Then back to the beach where John loaded the dinghy and took them back to the boat.

Harbour Master’s office was the next stop. It was still early, just after 9:00am. The initial part of checking out went well. And then she said we had to go to the bank and pay a fee, pick up the receipt, then visit the immigration folks located near the police station. Apparently customs is located at the airport and she was emailing them. They would then email back our release, so they could issue us a zarpe.

Off to the bank, well there we found we were #49 in a line that was just up to #25. We sat, waited, sat, waited for over an hour. It was then approaching noon and these folks go to lunch. When John was finally served the person didn’t know how to do what was required and took another age.

We found the immigration office, got our necessary paperwork. By then it was past noon, the tide was near high. John was worried about the dinghy, so off to the beach he went while I waited at the Ports office.

Bad news, he said upon return….the dinghy had been holed. Off to the beach we went. We dragged the dinghy as far as possible to the very top onto a low ridge.

And then, the skies opened and there was a downpour, we got soaking wet. The Ports office would be shut for lunch till 1:00 or 1:30pm, we too went for lunch. After a quick lunch we went back to Ports. He told us further bad news, there was no wifi soooo the airpot/customs could not send the paperwork. However he was going to stay in the office and wait for it, please return.

We had to get a water taxi from the beach to Aeeshah. John then went back on the water taxi with the dinghy pump. Next he waited around the Ports office till finally the paperwork was back. He pumped up the dinghy and got it back and up on Aeeshah. We still needed supplies for travel.

The next morning when we should have been underway we waved down another fisherman/water taxi boat. We went in got our supplies and then had to find a ride back to Aeeshah.