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Puerto Jimenez Osa Peninsula
Aeeshah crossed the Golfito Dulce, the large gulf that in itself is very unique.
This gulf is a tropical fjord formed from of the force of tectonic plates, due to internal transformations of the Earth’s crust. Unlike most other fjords in the world that were created by the action of glaciers. This type of fjord isi characterized by being very deep. In Golfo Dulce, the seabed measures 60 meters, (196ft), deep near the shore and then drops abruptly to 200 meters, (657ft), to form a trench.
The formation has caused the water to remain motionless at the bottom. This, added to the depth and tectonic characteristics of the place, prevents the water from mixing with the surface water and creates an anoxic basin, that is, one that lacks oxygen. Apparently, Golfito Dulce’s fjord is the only tropical fjord with this characteristic in the world,
Puerto Jimenez anchorage
Our first stop on the other side of the Golfito Dulce was a typical town anchorage. There was the large ferry dock, many moored pangas, a few local sailboats, and the regular black sandy beaches with surf running ashore.
We ventured ashore in the dinghy and on the first day we landed on the beach near the ferry stop. If you are wondering why we didn’t use the ferry dock or a dock that is because of the tides, plus they are for the locals to land on, not to tie off of.
This first dinghy landing on our part was quite clumsy. We still haven’t mastered the rushing rolling swell and the steepness of the shoreline, plus the need to be quick. After landing, not getting too wet, dropping the wheels and dragging the dinghy up the beach we tied off of a tree and walked towards the town.
The town was quiet due to it being the off season, or so we guessed. The locals were very friendly towards us. We took a meander around to stretch our legs and then headed back to the boat taking note of a better beach to land the next day.
The following day we headed in the dinghy into the bay on the north side of the ferry dock. Here the beach didn’t have any surf so the landing was a breeze.
In Jimenez we wandered down the one Main Street and picked up a few supplies. There was a very good grocery and a wonderful fruit/veg market. We did see one very unusual, to us, purchase in the grocery store:
Along to Bahia Drake
Our 2nd destination at approximately 60 miles away we arose at 3:30am and set off by 4:00am. Crazy? Not really as we preferred to travel by day rather than night. The main reason for this is the local long line fishermen.
At least by day you can spot them and therefore avoid them and their lines which can be over 3k, (1.8miles), long.
The fishermen we have seen so far have been the small panga fishermen who mark the outer edge of the line with a flag on a buoy and the inner end is on a winch aboard their boat or panga.
We have been warned that they get mightily upset if you cross the lines, tangle or cut them with the propellor. So, it’s best to avoid them. We have seen them on each day of our travels.
Bahia Drake
This passage was quite tiresome and we were both relieved to arrive in Bahia Drake. This bay was very, large with a long black sand, beach and a settlement/town behind. There was also quite a roll of swell from the Pacific. We anchored and hoped the roll would improve. In the morning John felt we were ok for another day as the chop had selttled and the roll had lessened plus we were facing into it. Being a showery day we were happy to stay.
Sierpe river
We didn’t dare go ashore as it entailed landing on the beach that had huge waves crashing on it and our landing skills were nowhere near perfected yet. We went up the nearby Sierpe river instead. This river ride was an absolutely delight, each bend showed yet another amazing view.
The jungle slopes from the river were covered in massive trees and handing vines of all types. We saw a few folks fishing and an elegant heron, a Bare Throated Tiger heron.
We went as far as the rapids enjoying the scenery.
Unfortunately back at Aeeshah the sea state deteriorated and we had a nasty chop on top of the Pacific swell often catching us side on. We had tried to adapt one of our anchors as a stern anchor but being the wrong type it did not really help. It was too late to leave for our next destination, so we were stuck for an uncomfortable night. John swearing never again.
Manuel Antonio beach/Bahia Espadilla Quepos
Approaching Quepos we were disappointed to find a large tourist boat basically blocking the prime anchoring spots. So where we dropped the anchor was not ideal. However we managed to lower the dinghy, get the other bow anchor, chain and line into it to use as a stern anchor.
Then John pulled the anchor line that we had attached to the stern so that Aeeshah was more or less facing the rolling swell. He dropped it and we were happy with how Aeeshah was lying. The night was relatively comfortable. In the morning we were very happy to find the large tourist boat gone. So we up anchored both anchors which was quite a hassle in the rolling sea. And then we re-anchored but only needed the main anchor as we planned to get ashore and purchase a stern anchor.
Off to Quepos town
We headed into the beach determined to beach the dinghy and get a ride into Quepos to buy a stern anchor. Plus we had to get to the Port Captain to get our next zarpe, as in Costa Rica you need the port to port zarpes.
The beach landing was quite easy, and the wheels made getting the dinghy to the top of the beach above the high tide mark easy too.
We asked a local beach vendor where to go and set off uphill on a pathway to the road. The way we walked was along a lovely shady path, up the hillside, passing a few streams. Near the top we asked yet another local for a taxi phone number and he actually phoned one for us! The Costa Ricans are just so kind and helpful.
The taxi arrived and off we rode the 3 miles into the Port Captain’s office near the port in Quepos. Well it turned out the process would take the Port Captain until after lunch at 1:00pm. So, we adjusted our plans and set off walking towards the main part of Quepos.
Along the way we found a fancy marina, Marina Pez Vela and decided to explore. John hoped the marina store would sell anchors. Nope, no anchors, so we went for an ice tea in the cafe.
After which we got a very nice taxi driver from in front of the marina and requested to go to a marine store. Once there John spied the anchor of his choice sitting in the window. It was a bit big and a heavy weight, but the taxi driver and I convinced him to get it.
Next we asked the driver to take us to a muy bien, grocery store. He took us to his favourite one and in we went for groceries. From there was back to the Marina Pez Vela for lunch. The restaurant didn’t seem to mind us walking in with an anchor and bags of groceries.
We both were very happy with lunch. I had the most amazing seared tuna salad in a wrap.
From lunch we went to pick up yet another taxi and lucked out by getting the same fellow. He took us to the Port Captain, the zarpe was ready. He drove us back to the pathway above the beach, and had a chuckle as we headed off down the path with the anchor and groceries.
At the beach there were several tourists that were amused to see us arriving to collect the dinghy with a huge anchor and bags of groceries in tow.
Bahia Herradura
Was our next stop and it proved to be an awful anchorage. It was lumpy with swell, rainy, uncomfortable even with the stern anchor.
Then the stern anchor proved to be very difficult for John to retrieve. Reflecting back, we should not have stopped there.
Along the way there we did pass a very odd, huge, floating platform. We guessed it was a fish farm, or storage. There were a mass of sea birds swooping above it. And it appeared to be netted.
Isla Cedros & Jesusita, Playa Langosta
A wonderful anchorage, sheltered between 2 islands where we finally lost the swell, had a nice breeze in a peaceful location.
There were many mangrove swallows that were swooping in and visiting us. I’m sure they had an eye on the sail bag as a handy nest area. Of course Chico was very keen on stalking them. So when I was awakened at 5:00am by a terrible cry, more like a scream that sounded like a wounded child I rushed up on deck. Sure enough Chico was in a panic swimming around the boat. I rushed down the ladder and swam in a panic myself to help him. Poor baby he was so incredibly distressed. He followed me back to the ladder and his buoy which I helped him up. We rinced him off, dried him off. He was terribly subdued for the rest of the day and into the following days.
No, he does not stalk the swallows anymore.
Being in an area without any swell was a welcome break. Off we went for a dinghy cruise around the islands where we were anchored. The scenery was again lovely. The mainland having steep jungle slopes with some homes along the shore.
There was a ferry dock on the mainland where one could get the ferry from across the bay to go to Puntarenas. The ferry dock set up was interesting as it included sand bags and weights to lower and raise the dock.
Around the other side of the isla was a fishing village which looked colourful, but we just passed by.
There were many tiny isles where colonies of frigate birds were nesting and enjoying their solitude.
Further along we came to an out crop of rocky isles where pelicans were relaxing from their fishing.
Overall the dinghy trip around was very enjoyable.
The bay we were anchored in had a floating restaurant. It was a set up that neither of us had never seen before. We set off for lunch on our second day.
The folks there were a combination of family and friends that jointly owned and ran the restaurant plus “fish/shrimp/oyster farm”. They greeted us warmly and down we sat for lunch.
After ordering we saw the waitress walk out along the pontoons to the men that were attending them. She started literally fishing for John’s fish lunch. Of course we were curious, John walked out to watch. A couple of fish were caught and back she came.
On her return she showed me all that they had on offer in the “pens” or baskets. There were fish of course, also lobsters, oysters, shrimp, and a conch type shell that I had never seen before.
We watched the men, they were netting the fish in one pen and delivering them to another. Plus pulling up the netting at the bottom of one pen to clean off all the growth.
Our lunch was amazing! John had whole fish fried, with salad and potato. I had shrimps fried, a wonderful salad and French fries. Everything was cooked to perfection. Plus we had a fresh pineapple juice for our drink.
John chatted with the men – Abito, working the fish pens and arranged for one of them to give us a panga ride into the ferry dock and back the next day.
We wanted to go into the nearby town for fuel and supplies. Abito also arranged for another friend who is a taxi driver to pick us up at the dock and cart us around in his taxi.
Next morning, just before 9:00 the panga driver arrived and off we headed to the ferry dock. We arrived and soon after we were whisked off in the taxi to the nearby town. Our main aim was to get the 6 diesel jugs filled and the gasoline jug topped up.
The driver was wonderful, we stopped first at the ATM. Next the grocery store where we picked up essentials, across the road we went to the Panaderia for bread and finally the gas station.
The jugs were all lined up in the boot, so the attendant insisted on filling them where they were. John remembers discussing how much fuel he wanted in each jug.
John believed he had explained, 5 gallons in each jug, but something was lost in the translation…..we had half the amount in each jug, 5 liters, in each. Seeing as the jugs were in the boot, John never found out till we got back……..part 2 Along the Costa Rican coast next
