Shelter Bay and thereabouts.

PHOTOS—->>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/79LaY1JWz4gBkfvB6

The Shelter Bay Marina

Being in Shelter Bay is a whole different world than Red Frog. On the day we arrived there was literally a queue waiting to enter, the marina was incredibly busy. So many cruisers leaving for the canal transit or entering the marina after a crossing from all parts of the world. There are many folks from all parts Europe, South and North America and other distant areas of the world.

Shelter Bay Marina offers a lot to its residents. There’s a good restaurant, a library/sitting room, laundry facilities, a store and a twice daily bus to get to the stores in Colon.

Checking in for the Panama Canal

We had been under the impression that one had to be here, in the marina, to get the boat assessed, measured and checked for the crossing. However, we found out that was no longer the story, times have changed. Nowadays, you have to contact an agent, and then it’s a do it yourself job. I contacted Erick, who is one of the Panama Posse agents.

Panama Posse is a group we have been subscribing to for a few years. Through them we get great advice from other cruisers, good suggestions of what to do and where to go, and importantly discounts on marinas and such.

After contacting Erick with our request, he got right back to me and said the sooner I get all the info to him the sooner we would cross. That there were bookings for the forthcoming month, so the sooner the better.

The paperwork proved to be very detailed, but by the day’s end I had it all completed and submitted. One day later, Eric got back to us with the date: April 10th

We had nearly 6 weeks till we crossed, plenty of time to get ready plus enjoy the area.

Shelter Bay marina is situated where the old Fort Sherman USA base sat, on Toro Point at the Atlantic, (northern) end of the Panama Canal, It is directly opposite Colón. Adjoining the marina is the 14,000 acre San Lorenzo National Park, one of the premier birding locations in the world.

Fort Sherman was the primary defensive base for the Atlantic sector of the Canal, and was also the center for US jungle war training for some time. The base was turned over to Panama in 1999. The old base buildings were and are, abandoned, left, neglected, falling down with jungle trees and vines growing over and out of them. This makes it an exciting area to explore, poke around and spot birds and wildlife. There are still various pathways and old roadways that are somewhat over grown, or totally over grown.

We took advantage of the area taking daily walks around the old base, around the derelict housing estate, pathways and byways enjoying the birds and animals we saw which also appeared to enjoy the ruins and the 14,000 acres of the surrounding trees.

We also resurrected our bikes. Both of us enjoy biking and the nearby roadways leading to Fort Lorenzo, several beaches and old trails.

We have seen Howler monkeys, Spider and Capuchin monkeys, in the trees.

On a normal day the howlers can be heard from the marina. One howler that I spotted lying on the branch had nasty boils, that looked almost like smallpox around its neck. I thought that the holes were wounds from fighting – bites inflicted by others, but using google I found out they are from Bot-flys.

There are many coatis these are The white-nosed coati, also known as the coatimundi,

is a species of coati native to Central America and as far north as the southwestern United States. They roam around in family groups throughout the jungle. We have spotted them on many of our walks.

I find my favorite birds to watch are the: Montezuma Oropendola –

A spectacular, very large, mainly ‘blackbird’ with splashed of yellow and red more common in tropical lowlands. It favors forest edge, open woodland, plantations, and semi-open areas with trees; colonies of large pendulous nests adorn tall trees.

Most species have black as a predominant plumage color, often enlivened by yellow, orange or red. The species in the family vary widely in size, shape, behavior and coloration). Both the English and scientific names of this species commemorate the Aztec emperor Moctezuma II.

They weave their nests which are hanging from Royal Palms growing between the old homes in the old housing estate and along one of the roads. One colony of birds I watched build new nests from scratch. They literally took just a few days to intricately weave a wonderful new hanging nests.

And of course we have spied many other beautiful birds. Getting a photo is very challenging

In one of the old buildings we saw bats roosting.

We were trying to get through the building when we disturbed the bats. They then obliged by posing for a photo.

There are also old army batteries throughout the area.

Some have been adorned by graffiti, most are very dingy and ghostly. From the one behind the marina we were able to slip and slide down a steep slope to a small beach. Looking out we could see the enormous ships sitting idle waiting for a passage through the very busy canal to the Pacific Ocean.

In yet another area we find the old jail. It is back in a distant part of an army battery, behind what we think was a power station. The prisoners long gone, the rooms bare.

On the bus ride to the grocery store

one of the most shocking sites is the Colon prison, built in the 1800s as the old city jail. Yes, it still houses prisoners, even with busted out windows, parts of the roof missing and other parts looking ready to fall in.

And there are no facilities, the food must be delivered, in clear bags, by family or friends. Laundry and such must be out sourced, the place is just a long term holding facility. A dreadful, haunting place. In fact most of Colon is very run down, trash ridden and ugly, with a terrible reputation for violent crime.

Our bike rides

started out as gentle, short rides to get adjusted to the saddles plus using different muscles that hadn’t been exercised in a while.

Having researched the roadway cutting through the San Lorenzo National Park and leading to the old Spanish Fort San Lorenzo I found there were several old lanes and pathways leading into the jungle. Each one looking to be quite an interesting journey. We decide to bike to each one and see where we found ourselves.

The first being: Devil’s Beach

The roadway which leads to San Lorenzo is newly paved and so nice and smooth, is mostly shaded by the jungle on either side. It is a very, quiet, roadway, traffic is a rarity, as it only leads to the old Spanish fort San Lorenzo at the mouth of the Chagres River. The whole area being the San Lorenzo National Park means there are miles and miles of wild land in fact, as mentioned 14,000 acres of protected area around you.

Along the way we are lucky to hear the Howler monkeys in the jungle and then to spot them in the trees above the roadway. Of course we stop for a photo op, but snapping monkeys is not easy.

We next stopped at the bridge next to where there is a ranger station. Looking over the edge, John spots a large terrapin swimming slowly upstream.

Down the trail to the Devil’s beach we bike. The beach we find is unfortunately littered with debris. Fishermen wade in the shallows casting rods and nets. Further out are the many ships awaiting their turn to pass into the Pacific. Overall it was an enjoyable ride.

Our second expedition was: Sendero Punta Bruja

Taking the same roadway towards San Lorenzo fort we find that after the bridge where the rangers are located, the roadway is a gradual uphill slog…. That uphill climb went on for quite a long way, actually all the 3 plus kilometers of roadway was a slow uphill.

We both took our time and finally we were at the entrance of the trail. John was sure he could ride the trail, but I was doubtful, however I tried. The beginning part wasn’t too bad but as the trail started going downhill over some rugged terrain I gave up, so we left our bikes by the side and commenced to walk.

I guess we had thought it would be a short hike, but by the time we got to what appeared to be the end we had covered just over 2.2k. And I’m pretty sure we went the wrong way…..we followed the pathway to the shoreline of a mangrove bay where there was just nothing to see. I was positive we should have turned off onto a bridge I had seen as we had passed.

We were both hot, quite tired and needing more water to continue so we set off back to the marina. The good part was once we trekked back uphill, me pushing my bike, to the roadway we had a wonderful amazing downhill ride back.

Our third venture was a second visit to Sendero Punta Bruja this was the following week.

Once again we pedaled/slogged uphill for just over 2k. I think what makes the uphill more difficult is that much of the road is straight so you see way off in the distance where you are aiming for.… Anyway, we got to the pathway, I locked up my bike, and I commenced to walk, John rode off on his bike to where the bridge was located. He then parked and off we walked.

Following a shaded pathway enjoying a very shady jungle hike

Climbing up the hill on the other side and following another trail through some attractive woodlands until finally emerging at a beach.

It was quite a surprise, the beach was huge! The tide was way out and all the shallows were exposed, plus, nobody was there.

We enjoyed exploring the beach and walking along the rocky shoreline into the adjacent rocky beaches.

This time the ride was well worth the walk through the jungle and discovering the beach at the end.

The walk back through the jungle was very, hot and so the downhill glide all the way black to the marina was amazing!

Our fourth bike adventure: Sendero Las Tres Torres

Sendero Las Tres Tires was to be our next outing, once again along the quiet roadway to Fort Lorenzo. On yet another lovely day we again set off to see what we would find along the Sendero Las Tres Torres pathway. All the way uphill we both rode without stopping! We found the roadway continued as an uphill climb until finally we reached the Sendero Las Torres trail markers.

Off we strode, however the trail became increasingly over grown. It became just too overgrown to continue safely as there could easily be snakes hidden in the brush. We had to abandon our trek.

Just down the road a bit further from there were some old US army barracks which we then aimed for. However again we were disappointed to find gates locked stopping any entry by the public. Back to Aeeshah we headed, again a wonderful downhill for half an hour.

Our fifth venture: Sendero Cerro El Pavon

Our next major outing, this time armed with ice teas, snacks and extra water was to Sendero Cerro El Pavon. The little info I was able to get promised a long forgotten US army look-out tower. Once again we assaulted the long, straight uphill slog. Once reaching the same stretch of road as the gated barracks we found there was a downhill ride that wound around, straightened out again went uphill and there we found the trail head to Sendero Cerro El Pavon.

Off we set, this time the pathway was quite clear and free of most undergrowth. We wandered under some lovely bamboo clumps, through some huge jungle trees and the uphill until ahead we spied the tower in a clearing.

The odd thing was there were picnic tables that must have been provided with the anticipation of walkers arriving. They were plastic and had sort of melted from the heat. Before climbing the tower we relaxed in the shade enjoying some of our iced teas, phew! What a relief!

Up the very rusty tower we found the breeze! What a wonderful sensation to feel the breeze when you are well and truly hot and very sweaty. The view was across the jungle to the Atlantic on one side, just off in distance we could see images of the ships.

The rest of the view was across the jungle, trees, trees, and more trees. There was a bee “hive” built just under the top step. These bees were quite small and not at all aggressive…. I think they were what is called the stingless bee.

Once down we drank the rest of our iced teas and then set off for the hike back. Again, the jungle was lush and lovely, but hot and sweaty.

Once on the road we faced a steeper uphill till we got to the battery entrance and then a wonderful, smooth, mainly shaded, downhill glide back to the marina and Aeeshah.

Boat work

Between our weekly shopping excursions into Colon, our daily walks or rides we have both been busy with repairs and upgrades. My main one was sewing seat covers to replace the old and hand stitching the sail cover. Its stitching had rotted by sun exposure, we did not want the difficult task of taking the cover off as this entailed taking off the main too. We prefer to leave that till cooler months ahead.

John had a major challenge with the water maker. The lift pump would not run and after stripping it down countless times, ordering new pieces he ended up making a new part himself a tiny little piece and voila! The water pump now works so the water maker works, and we need it where we are headed.

John also is upgrading all the cleats in preparation for our canal crossing. And he has installed a new inverter. Our whole capacity for solar has been upgraded due to new charge controllers so the inverter was the next obvious upgrade.

Surprise visitors

The marina is always manically busy with boats coming in, boats leaving, visiting, provisioning etc we had several different neighbors with in the few weeks of being here. So when our dock mates of 10 days said they were sailing to San Blas for a week or so we didn’t expect to have a boat next to us till their return. Imagine my surprise when just after they leave I return from the laundry to find another boat next to us…..but, not only that, it was friends from the years before.

Miles and Barb with their friends and helpers Kent and Elli. All of whom we had been dock mates with in the Sapordilla Lagoon marina the Reserve in Belize. We had several catch up chats during the day and wonderful dinner out together that night. Our other neighbour Harm came too. Dinner was good and the company excellent. Off they headed the next day.

Our sixth challenge is to ride the entire way to Fort San Lorenzo, walk around the old Spanish fort, and ride back via visiting Playa Tortuguilla.

Good Friday was the day for our final bike challenge. We set off up, up up the same long uphill stretch, stopping for water at the regular place by the Sendero Punta Bruja trail head. Continuing uphill, until finally we hit the downhill just before the trailhead to the tower. From there it was all new roadway which was undulating, slight uphill steep downhill, until finally we came to the entrance to San Lorenzo Fort. There was a chain across the entrance, we guessed due to the public holiday.

Second best choice was to continue down the road to the slipway, which we did. At the slipway we could see our friends Roy and Madeline’s catamaran anchored a little ways upriver on the Rio Chagres.

There were several locals there enjoying the day off by fishing. Plus ospreys showing off their fishing skills too.

Across the water was the San Lorenzo fort which we had visited 2x before during other visits. After a bit of a break we set off to:

Visit the nearby Playa Tortuguilla.

Of course we had an uphill ride back towards Playa Tortuguilla. For me this meant several stops to catch my breath and regain my mojo to continue my uphill fight.

At Playa Tortuguilla’s entrance we locked the bikes and set off down a shaded lane. All along the way we had a small river running alongside in a gorge. In the trees above we encountered many howler monkeys chillin’ in the branches. They gazed down at us as if to say, “silly humans walking in this heat!”

The lane was a good mile walk to the beach, upon arriving we found many locals cars parked in the bushes and the locals enjoying their Good Friday on the beach. It wasn’t a very special beach, but we crossed it off our list.

Back up the trail we mounted our trusty bikes and headed off in the direction of “home’, uphill yet again. Close to the towers trail head we stopped at another trail, this one indicating there were battery ruins to visit,

Bateria Mackenzie.

The perk with this trail was it had a concrete pathway running alongside it. The pathway made it much easier riding, after 10 minutes we were there…..to fine there was a tumbled down building and what appeared to be a homemade firing range.

Oh well, been there done that, we headed for Aeeshah. Yes, some more uphill which again I managed and then the wonderful, refreshing, glide downhill back to Aeeshah and the marina.