Wonderful days at Zaportillas Isles, Cayo Agua and Bluefields

PHOTO LINK —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/cKxHg2f964aYkQve8

It was a day before my Birthday when we decided to head out, to go, to wherever.

We motored through the mangrove cays heading towards the outer cays. We both decided we would prefer the exterior anchorages. Once at Crawl Cay we settled for:

The Zapordillas

These two, uninhabited islands are surrounded by a coral reef and are located east of Bastimentos Island. The Cayos Zapordillas are known as two idyllic islands in Panama’s Bastimentos Island National Marine Park. These islands are like something off a postcard—they have white-sand beaches, tropical forests, and coral gardens just offshore.

After we anchored we headed ashore and really enjoyed a walk along the beach. We walked in both directions and then when heading back towards the dinghy.

John spotted a shark swimming along in the shallows.

We followed it a ways and then John, being John had to jump in the water and scare it, so off away it shot. We believe it was a Thrasher shark.

We enjoyed a lovely swim in the gentle surf that was rolling up onto the beach and then headed back to Aeeshah.

Later that evening we were visited by the park’s men. They wanted a $50 parks fee for the night and we would receive a receipt. Or $25 park’s fee with no receipt. Of course we took the $25 fee.

Cayo Agua, Punta Norte.

The next morning we chose to go to Cayo Agua, Punta Norte. We had never visited this area and it had a good write up. So off we went. The anchorage was very pleasant and so after anchoring we set off in the dinghy to explore.

The shoreline was very attractive with many little bays, a few caves, tiny isles, and wonderfully huge trees over hanging the cliffs.

We passed several long, palm lined beaches and could see that some of the land was being used as fincas/farms, as there were cows grazing under the trees.

After going as far as we dared we hauled the dinghy ashore at the end of one of the long beaches. Just near where we hauled out was a small river emptying into the sea.

I set off along the beach to look for shells and I could see John investigating the river. I did feel a few bites when I was near the seaweed, but John must have been quite well bitten as I saw him storming towards the water. Nasty sand fleas or no-see-ums, not sure which but the bites were itchy. We had a swim and then headed back to Aeeshah. On the way back I saw horses grazing too.

That evening we found that the anchorage too had an abundance of mosquitoes. So, Cayo Agua, Water cay, obviously has many ponds and is a breeding ground for bugs that bite. (Actually, the bites on my legs were dreadful for about 5 days after).

Needless to say we left in the morning….

We had heard from friends Madeline and Roy, they had been trying to catch up with us. So, we arranged to meet up at Bluefields.

Bluefields

Bluefields is a very, large, deep, bay with tall, hills on each side. It is a part of the mainland Panama, but there are no roads or tracks leading there.

The bay has several small villages, the locals rely on farming and fishing. Everyone is very friendly and many locals paddle out to visit and or trade. When we arrived we had barely anchored when the first visitors arrived. One was a fellow called Duncan. He asked to guide us to the Casscada/Waterfalls. We agreed to go at 9:00 the next morning.

Meanwhile we were being visited by many, many children in kyukas. Most were trading bananas or coconuts but a few just visited to say hello and get whatever we had to offer. As we knew we might have visitors we had previously bought, a dozen cokes, several small bags of rice, several packets of cookies and candies. Our stock was soon depleting.

One child was indeed quite cheeky. His name was Michael he was 6. He was alone in a kyuka and we gave him a coke. I went down below to fetch something, John was already in the cabin, when I turned around to go back up I found him in the cockpit, drinking the coke and grinning. Michael the cheeky imp!!

We ushered him off. – He had scrambled up the stern having tied his kyuka to the stern.

Once again we were treated to a spectacular sunset! The breeze was wonderful, the visitors had headed home and we could chill.

Life was certainly good.

Las Cascades

The next morning we awaited Duncan at 9:00, waited, and waited when we finally we had nearly given him up we heard shouts from the shore which of course was Duncan paddling towards us. He climbed into our dinghy, tied his kyuka to our dinghy and off we set to meet Maddy and Roy. Duncan ended up tying his kyuka to their boat and we all set off with them in their dinghy and us with Duncan in ours.

When looking at the mangroves from outside, you would never imagine that there was a waterway, let alone the river we found.

Once we reached the mangroves Duncan, being the guide, took over the steering of our dinghy to navigate the way.

Every aspect it was exceptionally beautiful. The greens, the reflections and symmetry that surrounded us was of exceptionally beauty. It was a magical ride.

After a while Duncan landed the dinghy at a small grassy area where we climbed off, secured the dinghies and headed a long a narrow muddy path which followed the river.

Duncan showed us a number of different crops that were used for medicinal purposes. He also pointed out the avocado trees, plantains, bread plant, etc.

Before long the path turned into a walk along the river bed, until finally, we reached the first waterfall. The scene was just lovely, the colours blending and shining in the sunlight.

We stopped for a spell to look around and then climbed the nearby slope and continued again along the river bed and a narrow path, until we reached the larger waterfalls.

These waterfalls were much bigger with a much larger cascade of water. Again the scenery was spectacular. Duncan set off to climb these waterfalls and show us where there was a deep pool halfway down.

Once he returned he suggested we went and swim, plus try the pool. Well, I had no intention of swimming, but off went John. He jumped in clothes and all, swam to the falls, climbed out and up to the pool. Exclaiming how wonderful the water was, how refreshing!

Next thing, Maddy jumped in and was obviously enjoying the water. So, I thought, what the hell, I had better have a dip or else I will regret it later. Duncan held my camera and off I went into the water. Wow! It was so chilly! However the water was wonderfully refreshing.

It really revitalized my whole body, washed away all the sweat, I just felt wonderful after the swim.

Before we knew it was time to head back to the dinghies, I again enjoyed the walk but more so as I was so nice and cool from the swim.

Once back at the dinghies we made our way back down the rocks, then along the beautiful river, around the twisty bends under the trees and finally mangroves until we were once again in the bay.

The whole waterfall trip was wonderful, we all totally enjoyed the experience.

Once again we had an abundance of visitors. I had cut down on what I could give, now giving a cookie and 2 sweets wrapped in half a paper napkin.

Later in the afternoon we saw black clouds approaching, very quickly we were slammed by strong winds, and pelting rain. It nicely cooled the air and chased away our numerous visitor, for a while that is….

Beach walks

The following morning after our early morning visitors had left happily with their “treats” we met Maddie and Roy.

We all motored in the dinghies to the village at the end of the bay. There we followed the concrete path through the small village, uphill and down hill passing small fincas and areas growing a multitude of crops.

Agroforestry or sustainable agriculture is a type of farming that uses all the plants. For example, the trees provide the shorter plants with shade and prevent soil erosion with their extensive root systems. Plants like beans pull nitrogen from the air and place it back into the soil, naturally fertilizing the other plants.

Once we reached the end of the pathway we walked through another small village. There the local leader who also runs the tiny tienda asked for a $5.00 fee from us to continue. Which of course we paid without complaint as it is his village.

Once on the beach we all enjoyed the sheer size, the surf crashing ashore, the sea spray and the freedom to go for a beach walk.

Further down the beach were some fellow cruisers with their children enjoying the beach and playing with children from the village. We chatted for a while and continued on.

When reaching the point there was a river emptying into the sea, so we then took to the pathway that ran behind the beach.

This pathway was lovely and shady and it led us to the next village.

We walked through this village, but it was obvious that not many visitors strayed this far, as we were stared at from faces at windows. The locals were not unfriendly just curious.

Upon asking we were told the village was Guacamayo. After passing through we then walked the beach to the very end and turned around for our return walk back to the dinghies.

For the walk back we kept to the pathway under the trees. Madeline stopped at the tienda and purchased some eggs and we all enjoyed a fruit juice. It was a lovely morning walk.

That afternoon we once again had a heavy rainfall. It’s definitely a pattern in this area.

Our plan for the next morning was to follow another pathway we had spied. It headed in the opposite direction and when I asked a local he had said it went to “otra playa,” aka another beach.

Off we strode again uphill and down, crossing streams, passing fincas and small local homes. Everyone we saw were friendly, but you could tell they were curious as to where we thought we were heading.

We reached an unfinished part of the pathway which was crossing a boggy area. There we walked the narrow retaining walls and continued uphill.

Upon reaching the beach we could see it was basically the far end of where we had been the day before. We continued to the end of the beach and saw to continue we would have to cross a small river.

Across to the other side we waded and off we went along the path again.

Reaching the end of the path we found a stile, which we climbed and ahead saw the most amazing beach.

It was a beautiful day with wonderful clouds so that this beach was highlighted in every way possible. It ran off into the distance as far as we could see.

Along the beach we strolled, again seeing a few locals who looked at us curiously.

I spied a pathway running parrallel to the beach but in the shade of the trees. That path was for me, out of the blazing sun it was much cooler.

I really don’t know how far we went, but what looked like the end was just a bend in the beach, by then we all were walking in the shade. We continued, walking with us was a friendly local John had adopted.

Then we reached a clearing behind the trees where we could see very nice fincas. There were cows crossing a small river to the green fields behind. Our option to cross looked to be a log bridge.

That was not for me so I walked out onto the beach where the river flowed and crossed there in the very shallow water. Back on the pathway the fincas were along the other side of the river to one side and the beach to the other.

The scenery for me was stunning! The colors vibrant, the contrasting scenes were magical.

Sure enough we reached another log bridge which is where we decided to stop our walk.

We all felt we had explored far enough for that day. Just there was a small wooden hut which turned out to be a tienda. We bought fruit juices, and headed back.

I hope to return another time and go further as in the distance we could see yet another small village and lots of beautiful beach.

Our return journey was just as beautiful, but we all walked under the shade of the trees. It was a very sunny, but very warm day.

We lucked out on the return journey. We saw a local guy push his kyuka down the beach to the surf. There he carefully timed pushing his kyuka into the surf.

Calculating perfectly when to jump aboard through the large breaking surf. Then off he paddles out to the deeper water to fish.

Now to most folks this sounds, well easy, but it wouldn’t be as the kyukas are made from a single log of a tree of which the wood is incredibly dense. Therefore the kyukas are very heavy and a side swipe from one in the surf could be lethal.

Back along the side of the beaches, over the stile, along the pathways, passing the tiny homes and finally coming to our dinghies. The walk back was just as enjoyable too.

Above is an arial shot of some of the beach that we enjoyed. The cleared are are the fincas.

We had all decided to sail back to Bocas. For us, we needed to prep for our return home which was a week away.

That week sped past, prepping the boat takes quite a bit of work. Plus we enjoyed a lunch with friends and their dog Duke. And of course we had our daily walks.

We have a young friend and her boyfriend staying with Chico. Before we knew it we were heading out. First to Isla Colón to get our flight to Panama City.