Our visit to Bellavista Cloud Forest

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We were nearing the end of our explorations in Ecuador with just a visit to the cloud forest at Bellavista, to complete. Neither of us really knew what to expect.

We knew from google it was founded in 1991 by husband and wife team Richard and Gloria Parsons, and is a biologically rich conservation area of 2,000 acres on the northwestern slopes of the Andes. Plus that the Bellavista Reserve is composed of 700 hectares, (2000 acres) of subtropical pre-montane cloud forest. The elevation ranges between 1400 and 2600 meters ( 4500ft – 8,500ft) above sea level, with an average mean temperature of 14-22 degrees celsius. So warm during the day and cool at night.

Our driver picked us up at our hotel in Quito at the crazy hour of 6:30am. Off we set along the highway, towards the Amazon. Again the drive was spectacular, our driver was not Milton so there wasn’t a narrative about the area.

However the driver did explain that we were heading, towards the high slopes above the Amazon, an area that is protected, very deeply forested and lush.

After about an hour we left the main road and I thought our journey must be nearing its end. The road we were now on was more of a narrow, rough, rocky, mountain track which was winding its way uphill around the mountain slopes. We were later told that this right of way used to be the main road to Quito from the Amazon…..it was hard to believe.

Our driver had to stop a few times to cut foliage that was across the track. He told us this was normal. We also stopped for a lovely view point where we could see across the mountains, across the jungle and to the distant, still further distant, Andean mountains. Just so awe inspiring!

Upon arriving at Bellavista we were greeted by the staff and shown to our marvelous room. There was a view from our window across the jungle that was simply wonderful. Plus the window opened to let in the cool mountain air.

Breakfast was also ready for us in the dining-room. There we found a yummy breakfast awaiting us. The dining room looks out across the entire area and as our assigned table was right in the middle we had an excellent view.

After breakfast we found our guide waiting to take us out on a hike. We were due to do 2 organized hikes a day with our guide, Gloria. She was a very nice young lady who was extremely knowledgeable about the area and all that was to be found or seen in Bellavista. We opted to be shown around the immediate area.

Bellavista is hidden away in and under the trees. This means it is a wildlife and birders paradise.

There is an area set up for bird watching where everyday bananas are places to encourage the birds to come.

Near by there is an area where an insect net is set up. This has a light on during the night so consequently the bugs fly inside and can be viewed in the morning. Then they are released unharmed.

Across from this area is a swing that swings out over the mountainside, I loved going on the swing, swinging free, gliding up and up.

There was also a small research library room and various other viewing platforms. There are trail maps that show the many trails that can be followed all around the area. The trails varying from easy to hard, all of which are along, up and down the mountainside.

There are birds, exotic flowers, tiny reptiles and butterflies that flourish in this unique environment and every minute of the walk was filled with fascination.

Bellavista’s forest contains a high level of epiphyte (plants that grow on other plants) diversity, so trees are festooned with hanging gardens of guest plants.

The variety of these plants was crazy, all totally different. The trees are swathed with hanging gardens of bromeliads, orchids and mosses.. Plus since Bellavista is located on the equator, the flowers are in bloom year round.

As we followed an easy trail which passed by where they dump the degradable kitchen waste and Gloria told us that an Andean bear was tearing into the waste in search of foods.

They normally break the stalks of the immature palms and eat the soft flesh, sort of like eating asparagus. But this bear was using the compost pile to hunt for veggie goodies. She also said they suspected that there were a pair of them. In fact one of the cameras that monitor the trail had pick up the bear, plus one hiker had seen the bear snoozing in the boughs of the nearby trees.

The evening meal was delicious. I had Rainbow trout and some impressive Ecuadorean large grained maize for dinner. The food was excellent! It had been farmed at the nearby trout farm. Bellavista is wonderful! Our first day was so exciting, we were very impressed with the area.

Day 2

Up early to watch the mountains wake up and the birds enjoying the morning bananas.

The birds that visit are beautiful, all differing sizes and many are brightly colored brightly colored tanagers, so I was told. They prove to be challenging to photograph.

We then wandered to breakfast which again was excellent. After breakfast a group of birders had arrived with their huge, enormous cameras and equipment. They set up and began to avidly photograph birds.

Meanwhile I went down to our room and there in a tree nearby sat the most beautiful toucan. I caught a few shots of him and was well pleased. Later I found out it was a Plate-Billed mountain toucan I don’t think the birders saw him. The colorful yellow, blue, green, and blue toucan is found from southwestern Colombia to southern Ecuador.

Again we hit the trails and had a wonderful jungle walk. Absolutely everything about walking around the area is brilliant. The huge trees, the multiple flowers, the stunning views and around every bend another sight.

Once again we could see the bear had been at the compost.

Later in the day, I was really lucky to be out by the bird feeding area when I saw a tayra (Giant Weasel).

He was a beautiful, sleek glossy coated animal feeding on all of the left over bananas. I had never see an animal like him before, let alone been so close to one in the wild.

It was a wonder to behold him chewing away, moving from one spot to another and then jumping down and leaving while holding a banana.

Nobody else was around and when I told Gloria she told me that yes, she had heard one visited occasionally. Other animals I spotted when by myself at the bird feeder were a pair of Red Tailed squirrels. They were delightful! So cute.

Later in the day John and I took a walk along the lane near the research station. International scientists are based at the reserve’s research station, and ornithological studies are one of their main areas of work. To date, scientists have registered some 360 species of birds there.

We came to a trail that started with a most beautiful vista that looked out across the mountains. The multiple colors that blended to make the scene,

the differing textures and the bird song echoing in the distant all combined to make this a very special view point. The trail down was quite steep, but fun again the scenery stunning.

Our last day we missed the early bird viewing and apparently the bear had visited. He had come up the trail and appeared much to the delight of the few folks that saw him. Gloria was determined we should have a glimpse so she took us down the trail towards the composting area.

Sure enough he was there. I was quite happy with seeing him from the distance, but John had to approach the bear. I beat it up the trail fearing that if the bear did charge I would not be able to run fast enough.

Well, John crept closer and took some pics, Gloria was not very happy with him. However we did get some better shots of the bear.

He was an Andean Spectacled Bear, (sadly endangered) species and the only species of bear in South America. One of the most symbolic mammals of the tropical Andes. Spectacled bears are generally diurnal, shy, peaceful and elusive, avoiding contact with humans. We were so fortunate to have seen one in the wild, and up close.

As I waited for them to come up the trail I again enjoyed watching and photographing the beautiful birds. Most have such vibrant colors others are wonderfully camouflaged..

After breakfast we enjoyed looking at all the differing insects inside and around the insect net.

The variety was quite astounding, so many, many, types, shapes and sizes. Plus there was a lovely spotted wood creeper nearby catching whatever insects he could.

Off again we set to walk a few trails. I was finding that every time I went out I noticed more, almost as if the trails changed or morphed. I don’t think either of us would get bored with the walks around Bellavista.