The beautiful Isla Escudo de Veraguas

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Isla Escudo de Veraguas

These isolated isles lie about 24 miles east of Bluefields and about 17 km away from mainland Panama. They are uninhabited except for a few Guaymi fishing families. We had never visited before and we were hoping the weather would be calm enough for a few days there.

We had a the most beautiful sunrise and could see the isles in the distance.

We anchored in an anchorage off of the long beach and sand spit at Long Bay Point on the western side of the isles. There were 2 other cruising boats already anchored.

What an amazing place we found, incredibly beautiful, a stunning destination. We looked ashore and were just smitten by the beauty.

John went for his nap as he had just finished the night shift and I tidied up. Then we were off excited to explore the shore.

We went to the small coves opposite where we were anchored and found them to be made up of little islets, tunnels, small lagoons and all so very different from any we had see before.

The shapes formed by the rocks, the rocks themselves, the pattern of errosion, the plant life, all was differing from the norm. Plus, there was beauty around each corner we turned.

We met up with the end of the long beach where there were the skeletons of long lost trees. We both noticed that the birdsong coming from the jungle ashore was quite different from what we had ever heard before.

We landed in just a gentle surf and walked along towards the sand spit at the end. The jungle off of the beach was dense and appeared quite impenetrable. Coconut palms lined the beach, we could hear many differing songbirds and cicadas from the trees in the jungle.

The beach itself was wonderfully wild, except for the regular plastic man made waste that had washed ashore. There was even a trail from a nesting turtle.

I soon found sea-beans in the seaweed, so many I had to stop myself from picking them up as my pockets were full.

It was wonderful to be walking and enjoying a beach once again. All the way to the end of the sand bar we walked and then back.

After which we both enjoyed a swim off the beach and headed back to Aeeshah.

After lunch we headed out to ride in the dinghy along the shore towards the distant little isles we could see.

What an amazingly scenic shoreline. Again neither of us had seen rock formations as these before, with large fossils of tree trunks.

We decided the rock must be made from a mix volcanic ash and sandstone. The formations created small isles, caves and overhangs all of which had lush vegetation clinging to the sides.

The colors were spectacular, the greens, turquoises, blue hues all blending and contrasting. My camera worked overtime snapping shots.

We wove in and out of small bays enjoying every view.

The reefs too were amazing, very different from any we had seen before. We went into a bay, tied to a palm tree trunk and headed off snorkeling.

This was the first time in a year that we were able to have a really good snorkel. In the shallows the water was uncomfortably hot, yes hot! However further out and down deep it was a great temperature. The reefs again I say are like none I had ever seen.

They appear to be very large boulders which are covered in corals. There are no soft corals just hard corals of differing types, sea anemones and such creatures.

Between the coral covered reefs were tunnels and caverns with schools of fish hiding in the shadows.

We both had a wonderful snorkel, after which we just lounged in the water under palm trees.

That evening we saw the same weather pattern of the previous evenings when in the river. The winds and clouds blew out off the distant mountains. There was a shower and everything cooled down, and we say, “thank goodness.”

The following morning we headed off towards the other point passing along the long sand spit and across to the distant point.

We really didn’t expect to find much, so we were very surprised to find the same types of amazing scenery as the day before and if possible even more beautiful.

The colors are/were stunning! We could see that the entire outer shoreline was made up of these little isles, tiny coves, tree lined beaches and amazing scenery.

However we were low on dinghy fuel and so had to save that shore for another time n the future.

We returned slowly along the shoreline enjoying the beauty, passing the area where the local fishermen have a small camp. Not a soul did we see. However that evening a fisherman in a kayoka came by with a smoked lobster to sell us. Yes, we bought it and had it for dinner the following evening and it was wonderful as lobster salad.

John and I set off next to fly his drone. We went to the flattest beach that was along the shoreline where he felt it would take the best pictures of the entire area.

John has been having problems with the drone as the batteries are swelling and other issues so he was only able to capture just a fraction of what he wanted. And basically he needs a new drone as that one flew its last flight.

Meanwhile I strolled the beach enjoying the walk while swatting away the horse flies. Yes, there are numerous horseflies, they are really persistent and annoying, plus the bite is nasty. After my walk and his flight we enjoyed a wonderful swim to cool down.

That afternoon we went off to the reefs, next to the small cove, to snorkel.

Again it was a wonderful snorkel, amazing corals, lots of fish and varying types and very interesting underwater scenery.

Once again that evening and night we had the same weather pattern, but this time with more thunder, lightening, wind and some rain. We set the anchor alarm and John was on alert in the cockpit till the early hours, however it proved to be a non event.

The following day we needed to leave. We both love the area and plan on returning, but we needed to get to Bocas for a number of boring reasons, dinghy fuel, wifi, etc. We will return……

We were very curious as to why these isles were just slightly different from the norm, almost surreal, looking at the rock formations, the jungle, the birdsongs and underwater too. After a bit of research I found out why …….

For anyone who is interested in reading more about this amazing gem of Isla Escudo De Veraguas.

Separated from the mainland for approximately 10,000 years their plant and animal life have developed independently from mainland Panama. There are several endemic species, the pygmy 3 toed sloth, various bats, lizards, trees and more. There was a study conducted by the Smithonian Tropical Research institute in 2017. This was the 1st in depth study. A book was written in conclusion to the study. The article and info can be found here: https://stri.si.edu/story/isolated-gem