PHOTO ALBUM—>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/8UQNXeHFMFHnMNRb7
We left Shelter Bay on May 23rd and headed out the breakwater with the hopes of being able to enter and anchor in the Rio Chagres. This river is one of the most important rivers in the world. It is where the Panama Canal is located:
Rio Chagres
“At 3.2 kilometres, (2.0 mi), from the river’s mouth lies the Gatun Dam, which created Gatun Lake and provides hydroelectricity. Created in 1913 by the damming of the Chagres River, Gatun Lake is an essential part of the Panama Canal, which forms a water passage between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean, permitting ship transit in both directions.”
The weather conditions proved to be just wonderful to enter the Rio Chagres. We rounded the bend with the old San Lorenzo fort on our port side. Passing the slipway where a few fishermen were relaxing with their rods and made way for the 1st bend, where we anchored in 30 feet of water.
The river banks looked to be incredibly wild with thick jungle along way off into the distance. Howler monkeys could be heard howling in the near and distant trees. Many differing types of birds were heard from the jungle and we caught fleeting glimpses of some such flying past.
All one hears there is the wind rustling the leaves, differing birds singing, cicadas singing, frogs occasionally croaking and the howlers. The constant colour is greens, with the river water, the differing trees and reflections and then behind the bright blue of the sky.
The Chagres National Park borders the river and is one of the largest national parks in Panama with approximately 130,000 hectares.
That afternoon we set off in the dinghy to explore the sides of the river near Aeeshah. We went slowly along one side and then the other gazing up into the thick foliage looking for the birds we could hear.
The Green parrots make such a raucous, but to see them is near impossible, just silhouettes against the sky. Along the banks we looked for crocodiles, but none could we see. The scenery seen while exploring was just lovely.
That evening we definitely had to light coils, yep the no-see-ums were about followed later by the mosquitos, but we had a brilliant sunset.
The sky just lit up down river, which was in front of us, while to our stern, up river a very unusual cloud formation appeared. The clouds were split by a band of light, the lower band was bringing a shower of rain.
Meanwhile to the bow the brilliant sunset kept changing colour. This amazing sunset was a real treat!
Next morning we set off in the dinghy towards the dam. Traveling slowly up the left side of the river we looked for birds, especially toucans, crocodiles and anything else we could see.
Well, we found the old bridge that was mentioned in a cruisers comment, but not any pathways mentioned. It’s history is that it was part of:
“El Camino Real, the trail used by the Spanish to transport gold, passes through the park and it is possible to retrace the path in a four day hike. However, local people say that the path is haunted by the slaves who built the trail and transported the undreamed of wealth of the Incas and the Aztecs across the Chagres valley.”
The bridge which was part of the path is now totally broken and over grown. However we did see bats that have cleaned the underside as home. Cute little black bats clinging to the underside of the bridge.
There were several tributaries we tried to travel along, usually logs and branches stopped our progress. The reflections were unreal! Of course I tried to get some shots, but the photos do not do the reflections justice.
It was very hot, very hot, however we slowly cruised the 3 miles and finally ahead of us we could see the bridge, weir and Gatun Dam. Not knowing where there was a landing spot we first approached on the left side and attempted to land on the rocks. This was not a good idea, we noticed on the other-side what looked like a road and guessed it led to the ramp.
So, off we went back down the river a ways and crossed through the shallow water, passed little islands and found the ramp. There were a few interesting fishing boats tied up, plus more on the ramp, and a few fellows wandering around. Everyone was friendly, but we just had a look about and then left to head back downriver to Aeeshah.
On the way downriver we chose to go fast as it was midday and incredibly unbelievably hot! 95F according to our boat thermometer and not a breeze to be found.
Along the way I spotted more wildlife than earlier. 1st a sloth hanging from the trees by the side of the river. Not sure what the fellow was up to, he had his lower section hanging in the river…..maybe he was just chillin.
2nd, along further I spied a Jesus Lizard again we stopped to have a closer look.
3rd, finally, I spotted a crocodile resting on the bank under some branches. He was harder to catch with the camera, but I did get 2 quick shots before he was submerged. They move incredibly fast.
It was a wonderful, but very hot half day along the river. John was so hot he impulsively jumped in for a swim. He soon jumped out after being stung by many tiny little jellyfish. It is a strange river as it seemed to be tidal. The sargasum seaweed was floating by and we guessed that is where the jellies came in.
That evening we again were treated with a wonderful light display in the skies and reflected in the river.
What an incredibly beautiful river, wild and wonderful.
The following day was a passage day/night. This time it was a wonderful sail to our next destination. Just a very quiet passage a few miles off the Panamanian coast with a lovely sunset……
and an amazing sunrise as we approached our destination.
