East to Shelter Bay for work and play

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Off we went

heading eastwards towards Shelter Bay Marina to get Aeeshah hauled. We had an overnight passage which was not the passage we had planned for. It was quite rough, with seas coming from differing directions causing a confused pattern which meant we pounded, rolled and learched about for, yes, the whole way. As we had been in the shelter of Bocas Del Toro for the previous 10 months I was finding it tough going and so was not much help to John. Poor him, had to do the entire night watch.

In the morning we were approaching the canal entrance, we had covered over 140 miles in less than 24 hours. So for all the rough conditions it was at least a fast passage.

The number of ships anchored and moving about at the canal entrance/ exit is truly quite unbelievable. Massive bulk carriers, tankers, freighters and others it really is quite an awesome sight.

We passed through the canal after a container ship and headed to the anchorage outside Shelter Bay Marina. John just went and passed out in bed. I cleared the mess. The floors were covered with all sorts that had fallen, shifted or just been placed there during the passage. Chico took care of the odd flying fish laying around the decks.

Shelter Bay marina

The next morning we had to go into the marina via the dinghy to fill out a mass of paperwork for 3 different offices, the marina, the slip and the stores, (for paint). Next we went out and brought Aeeshah into D32 our new home base,

which was a good location in the marina, near the outside and able to catch the breeze, because it is hot, in the top 80 degrees. We did hook up the AC but prefer not to use it, if possible.

We had last been in Shelter Bay in 2016, 8 years ago. The place looks the same but it has expanded. Also, there used to be just a few big sailboats and catamaran’s, but now most of the boats are large. We set up and then headed in for a nice dinner at the restaurant.

Around Shelter Bay Marina

One really nice aspect of this area is the walks one can go on. The old Fort Sherman US base is here. It has been vacated for many years now and nature is returning. The original fort was first started in the early 1900s. Then rebuilt during the world wars.

Fort Sherman located on Toro Point on the western bank of the Canal directly opposite Colón. It was the primary defensive base for the Caribbean sector of the Canal, and was also the center for US jungle warfare training for some time. Its Pacific-side partner was Fort Amador. Both bases were turned over to Panama in 1999, and as said nature has reclaimed the area.

On a side note about the US jungle warfare training: Was Agent Orange at Fort Sherman Panama?

At least nine witnesses have confirmed that the military sprayed heavily with Agent Orange in an area of Fort Sherman known as the “drop zone” in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Most mornings we hear the Howler Monkeys barking/howling away to each other n the nearby jungle. We head out for daily walks most days. Our first was around the old Fort Sherman accommodation area. This is/was quite large with many houses or blocks of apartments.

Now they are just shells and the insects have made use of the structures for building their homes. There are many reminders of the past, like the old fire hydrants and the road signs.

Our second walk was off on the San Lorenzo road, which is also part of this area, to find Playa Diablo. The road has changed since we last saw it, as it has been resurfaced.

We found that where the old bridge used to be there was now a new, recently built bridge and drainage system. It seems that there are plans for the area.

We followed the pathway to Playa Diablo, but were somewhat disappointed with the piles of trash. The entire area is only accessible through 1 gate which has security. Only authorized folks are allowed inside, so only authorized folks could have left the trash and they are the ones who should know better.

Across from the marina was a marshy flats where we went for a morning stroll. It was quite lovely in its own way, with lots of birdlife,

but extremely hot with lots of bugs. I did come across a bright green snake which slithered out of sight ever so quickly.

Our favorite walks turned out to be along a pathway right next to the haul out yard. This overgrown lane leads into the old over grown fort area and batteries.

There are these very spooky old ruins

with some interesting graffiti.

There one can climb above them and then follow a steep pathway, even using a rope to traverse down a cliff to the shore.

However the best part are all the animals we see. The capuchin monkeys are numerous, they watch and follow us chattering away to themselves.

We saw a coatimundi family. We were walking along the trail when 2 adults crossed the path. We stopped to look at them when, on the other side we saw about 7 tiny little babies scurrying off to hide.

We moved away, and I watched as the parents ran and leapt back across the pathway to their young.

Into Colon for groceries

The marina offers a shopping bus into a mall area near Colon. We went on the morning trip one day. Once we got there we found most places did not open until 10:00am. We killed time by walking around sort of doing a recon of the mall.

Other than the supermarket/grocery there really wasn’t much that interested us. Now, the Supermercado was excellent! It had everything and more than one needs. This was our first good grocery store since Florida, nearly a year ago. However we only got what we needed for the immediate future.

Haul out

We arranged with the marina for Aeeshah to be hauled on the Monday at 10:00am. So around 7:00am Monday morning I was somewhat surprised to hear local voices outside on the dock. John being a late riser was still in bed, but by 7:20 when I could hear the fellows again I roused John. He found that, lo and behold, yes, it was time for us to move to the haul out bay. Obviously there had been a misunderstanding about the timing. Within 10 minutes we were ready, no time for tea, or getting washed just straight off and within 10 minutes we were getting hauled.

The crew were excellent, and by 10:00am we were power washed and getting sanded.

Our haul out “berth” being right next to the haul out bay as they anticipated we would be finished within a few days. Right after lunch we were being painted and the 1st coat was completed by 1:45.

It was incredibly hot, and sure enough clouds gathered and soon after we had thunder followed by a cooling blast of wind and a downpour.

The crew managed to finish the work by Tuesday afternoon. The mechanic came and replaced the cutlass bearing with our new one. The painters had the second coat of paint applied.

Aeeshah looked wonderful. On Wednesday morning they shifted the stands, applied the paint underneath, had us in the slings and then the water by noon. An excellent job by Shelter Bay marina.

Fort San Lorenzo

Located near the mouth of the Chagres River, stands the remains of the mighty Fort San Lorenzo this is within the same area as Shelter Bay marina. There are actually over 30,000 acres of protected rainforest in the jungles around this area of the Panama Canal watershed.

San Lorenzo Fort was built to protect the entrance and exit of the main route to the Americas, the construction of the fort was ordered by Spanish King Felipe II in 1598, with limited effectiveness. In fact, between the years of 1596-1740, the fort was under almost constant attack by now-famous pirates such as Sir Francis Drake, Sir Henry Morgan and the English Admiral Edward Vernon.

Recognized today as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the massive fortress was made by the Italian engineer Juan Bautista Antonelli, and is considered an extraordinary example of 17th and 18th century military architecture.

We had, 8 years ago ridden our bikes to San Lorenzo, visited and ridden back. The bikes were still packed away and as we are not staying here we decided to get a taxi to the fort, look around and walk back. The taxi driver was quite skeptical of our plan to walk back saying, “it’s 12 kilometers and has uphills to climb” he left his number with us just in case we needed him.

When we arrived at San Lorenzo we could see that 2 whole bus load of students had also arrived, we both groaned and looked at each other with concern. However, these students were the most polite well behaved kids. They were the graduating classes from a high school in Panama city out for the day.

San Lorenzo had undergone a facelift. The walls have been cleaned, all the growth taken off all the turrets and very nice pathways laid. We enjoyed walking around, checking the views across the Rio Chagres and the seas below. The battlements are quite high above the ocean and the river.

Next came our walk back. The road too has been restored. It used to be just a pot-holed mess, but now it is a well surfaced road.

Not many folks visit the area and so the road was very quiet with hardly any traffic. The howlers were the ones making the noise. From one side to the other side of the road they were howling at each other. We would stop and listen, trying to spot them, but with the thick jungle foliage it was difficult.

Finally we managed to spot a couple who quickly disappeared, but I managed to get a few pics. Overall the walk was hot but enjoyable, shaded, with many birds to try to spot. It took us 2hours 15 minutes and was 17,000 steps, 7.9 miles long.

On on….

We started making plans to head back to Bocas, it was just too late in the season to head to the San Blas. We continued to enjoy daily walks. Each day around and about the old Fort Sherman we would see different sights, lots of monkeys, some being quite cheeky throwing berries at us

or banging trees to try to scare us away.

The ruins too are still revealing unusual buildings and questionable stuff…..cages, cells, an old church……makes one wonder about all that went on here.

On our second to last evening there was a pot luck bbq at the palapa. We barbecued some sausages and took corn salad to share, while enjoying others contributions and company. Some of these folks have been sailing/traveling for many, many, miles and years. Take Fred, in his eighties having circumnavigated the whole world 3 times. He’s a wealth of knowledge and wisdom. It was a fun evening, but again the bugs were crazy.