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Chico woes:

Our Chico was feeling poorly, just not really eating, he hadn’t passed a bowel movement in over a day, he was not running about at all, just not himself. Naturally I was just terribly worried about him. We were about to take him into the vet when we were told that Dr Gloria was coming to the marina to visit all of the dogs. This was wonderful, we went and waited in the laundry/lounge/shower area.

Dr. Gloria checked him, squeezed him and was very concerned. As he is so big she was worried it could be his liver, or his kidneys or a blockage. She injected him with antibiotics and pain medication.

We were instructed to give him laxatives, watch him closely and if nothing passed and there was no improvement then to take him into her on Monday. 

Monday came and despite doing everything we were instructed to Chico was still not well. Into Bocas we went on a water taxi, next a taxi ride to Dr Gloria’s. There she found he was terribly dehydrated and Chico was put on a drip for hydration. Plus he had blood taken to check his health. After a few hours of waiting we were told, his blood work was good, his major organs were therefore working fine, phew! Next step was an enema. We were to leave him and return before 5:00pm for the results. Naturally it was not a good day we were just so worried….. Finally we received the results and John brought Chico home. What was it?

Well, he was plugged up with grass, a whole mess of grass. Why? Well, sometime before when we were at Catamaran Marina he was know to chew grass. So as we had been at anchor for some months and in areas where grass is scarce, I had started to pick him handfuls whenever we went for a walk. He was just so happy to burry him face in the grass and chew on it, I got in the habit of having a vase of it by the sink in the galley. Apparently, Chico had over eaten the grass, which apparently was very course, therefore causing this huge plug. Dr. Gloria said no more grass!!

At Red Frog Marina

Being back in the marina meant walks everyday and many sightings of sloths and monkeys too. Red Frog marina and surrounding area is just wonderful for daily hikes. 

Family visiting

We were waiting with anticipation the arrival of our son Gavin, his wife Katie and our lovely Granddaughters, Lily and Evie. We had been asked to make many plans as they love being active. The girls don’t do boredom….

The arrival day: 

Out to the Red Frog Resort and Marina reception dock we went to meet the arrival of their water taxi from Isla Colon. Gavin and family had flown into Panama the day before, overnighted in Panama City and then got the Copa flight to Bocas Del Torro. The flight itself is quite thrilling as the plane is a small prop job.

Off the panga they all came, hugs all around and then into reception. There they check into their Jungle Lodge and received their complimentary fruit drink.

John and I had rented a golf cart for 24 hours so we could carry the supplies up the hill to their lodging, plus to be able top show them around. The girls thought that this golf cart was our car! The Jungle Lodge was near the top of the main steep hill. A very nice three bedroom place with 3 floors, full kitchen lounge and lovely view.

Katie stayed and unpacked getting everything organized. We all went for a small tour around the lanes, passing the villas and down hill to the Point end of the Red Frog beach. As usual the beach looked wonderful and when leaving we showed them their 1st sloth.

The girls were very impressed. On a little further and Gavin said “Hey Dad stop!” He had spotted monkeys. There were indeed a small troop of monkeys, the White Faced Capuchin. We all were thrilled to see the monkeys, especially as they had only been at Red Frog but an hour. The girls were amazed to watch the monkeys swinging and leaping tree to tree then across the road where we were watching.

Next stop was the marina and Aeeshah to see our home and to meet Chico. Again, Lily and Evie were totally intrigued by what they saw, just amazed that we did actually live on a boat. Also to see that there were many others living on sailboats, even families.

The final stop for the day for us all, including Katie was the Palmar restaurant at red Frog beach. Here we had drinks and a delicious dinner. The girls happily played on the swings or along the beach area near where we sat for the evening.

Off to Nivida Bat Cave and lunch at Old Bank:

Lonely Planet describes this cave tour as: “One of Bastimentos’ most fascinating natural wonders, Nivida is a massive cavern with swarms of nectar bats and a subterranean lake. The cave lies within the borders of the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos and half the fun is getting here”

We were picked up at the Red Frog reception dock by our panga driver along with his son. A fellow called Jim joining our family group for the outing. And off we zoomed towards our destination. Just past the Red Frog anchorage we spotted dolphin splashing and playing. Our driver slowly approached and the dolphin put on quite the display.

The dolphins frolicked in the water at the bow of the panga delighting Evie and Lily. The driver then sped up and the dolphin chased us around and around in circles leaping, racing and splashing in the wake from the boat. Literally racing in the wake, we all were totally entertained. And then they were gone and off we zoomed over to the well hidden entrance that was to lead us to Nivida bat Cave. 

This journey along the canal in the mangroves really was wonderful, the reflections amazing! I for one just love reflections. Along and along we very slowly cruised, until amazingly Lily spotted a sloth hanging right next to us over the water.

And it was a mother sloth with a little baby hanging onto her. She sipped water and then slowly climbed back up the mangrove stem she hung from. Well spotted Lily! Along and along we slowly putted until we came to a rough looking landing spot. There we climbed ashore and headed to a local’s home.

There we met our guide, changed into suitable shoes and water gear because, yes, we were going to get wet in the cave! There were adorable kittens playing in the muddy yard, chickens running around and a very rural home.

However Lily and Evie never questioned the circumstances, they simply enjoyed a hammock that was hanging at the side of this scene….it showed the adaptability of the children. 

Off we hiked down a trail through the trees and jungle on a muddy path. Now to start with both girls were concerned with the mud, and getting the yucky mud on themselves. However this soon changed and the mud became fun!

I know Gavin was amazed by the size of the trees and the abundance of the varieties of plants. The pure beauty of the jungle always amazes me.

Reaching the cave we were given a headlamp and were able to put any necessary items in a dry bag, before heading down into the depths of the cave. 

Right after entering one can see the bats by the hundreds hanging above. As we moved along there were some bats flying above us having been disturbed by the headlamps. We carefully walked in water along a narrow tunnel that was just over our heads too. There were limestone formations and gleaming rocks, we all had to feel our way with careful steps as the ground was very uneven.

The girls did remarkably well, needing some assistance, but totally entertained by this new environment. Katie did tell me she was somewhat scared, well terrified, but she swallowed her fear and continued underground.

We reach an area which was a natural swimming pool with a waterfall at the end where we could swim across the pool to stand under the waterfall.

And, yes, everyone swam across to the waterfall. The water was very chilly from being underground, I believe everyone was quite chilled, Evie was even a shade of blue.

On our way out we found that one of the dogs had followed us underground, and we found many hidden large spiders clinging to the sides. The girls were not phased by the spiders, just intrigued.

Carefully we climbed back out, and made our way back to the base. On the way back Lily and Evie delighted in getting muddy, slipping and sliding in the muddy areas, really enjoying getting totally muddy!

Back at the base we hosed off our muddy feet, dried off, and put on dry clothes.

I had thought we could buy lunch from the locals, but was told not that day. So our driver and his son said they could take us somewhere for lunch.

We all clambered back into our panga and off we cruised enjoying the mangrove reflections back to the open water.

We were taken to Old Bank for lunch. Old Bank is the little town at the northern end of Bastimentos. Locals refer to Old Bank simply as Bastimentos. Most of the town’s residents are West Indian descendants and many speak Guari-Guari, a local language that mixes English, Creole and Spanish. Guari-Guari is fascinating to hear but almost impossible to understand, even though it’s a derivative of English…. It’s actually a bit similar to the Bermudian accent.

Here we had lunch at the most delightful restaurant. It was colourful, airy and looked right over the harbour.

After ordering we went for a stroll around the surrounding area, which was primarily along a sidewalk. Old Bank is wonderfully colourful, full of character, quaint with odd quirks of individualism.

Lunch for me was fish and chips and it was very satisfying, I totally enjoyed the food. 

Back to Red Frog arriving in the mid afternoon, we were able to use the golf cart to take everyone back up the hill to their jungle lodge. Just before leaving I spotted one of the huge yellow crickets. The girls were fascinated by such a big bug.

Walk to Polo beach; Red Frog beach

We decided to enjoy the beaches and area around Red Frog therefor we set off mid-morning with snorkel gear, swim suits etc for Polo beach. Polo beach has relatively calmer waters and is supposed to be ok snorkeling. Gavin was keen to snorkel and see what is was like compared to Bermuda. 

It’s a nice walk getting there, quite scenic, unfortunately the sun hidden behind cloud. However for the sake of girls it was good it wasn’t a really sunny day.

At Polo Papa and the girls enjoyed the shallow waters while gavin and Katie went for a snorkel. After a while Katie climbed out of the water saying she found the current too strong and asking me if I had seen Gavin.

I said I had last seen him heading along towards the distant mushroom rocks. Well, we all looked for his head in the surf, but to no avail, he was out of sight. I stayed with the stuff while they walked down the beach aways where they finally found him climbing out of the water. He had been swept along in the current and instead of trying to fight it he went with it as far as the mushroom rocks and then headed ashore. 

Gavin, Katie and myself then went for a stroll along the pathway under the trees to the next beach while Papa and the girls splashed about in the shallows.

As it was past lunch time we headed off to Red frog beach and Nacho Mommas for lunch. It’s about a 30 minute walk and everyone was quite happy to arrive and relax in the beach chairs with a cold drink and the wonderful tacos.

Meanwhile the girls were again off to enjoy the surf. Papa and Gavin were quite happy to go and play in the surf too. This beach is more a surfer’s beach.

Gavin was very keen to get Lily and Evie adept in the surf so they get to enjoy body surfing. And, really after the couple of hours they spent in the surf they became quite comfortable with the waves crashing and the surfs constant movement. 

 

Aeeshah day out

Again there was an overcast day, but the decision was made to take Aeeshah out regardless. John and I readied her, Katie, Gavin and the girls arrived and off we went. 

I guess we did about an hours cruise, across the Red frog anchorage, down the canal through the mangrove islets around and back, anchoring in the Red Frog Anchorage. 

There we all enjoyed a swim. The girls jumping off  Aeeshah and the dinghy. Gavin took Katie and the girls for a cruise around the mangroves passed the local village.

Next was a barbecued hot-dog lunch, plus water melon. The girls enjoyed looking around our boat home. They were still fascinated by how we live on a boat. Meanwhile Chico laid low, not being used to children he finds them a bit scary. 

The highlight I think was when Papa took the Lily and Evie starfish hunting. And they found 10 starfish. Here in Bocas the very large starfish are quite common. They live in the shallows. Of course John also took the girls on a spin about the anchorage too.

We decided to leave Aeeshah at anchor as we needed a few hours to set her up dockside.

Visit Up the Hill chocolate farm:

Their description: “Welcome to Up in the Hill! We are a family-owned organic chocolate farm and Eco lodge located on Isla Bastimentos in Bocas del Toro, Panama. We started our farm in 2002, and since then we have grown into a fully functioning permaculture farm, producing cacao, chocolate, coconut oil, fruits, herbs and coffee, to name a few. With the production of our farm’s natural resources came the making of our own line of 100% natural body products and also our delicious farm to table coffee shop menu.” 

Another over cast day, but we all set out to have fun. Arriving at Old Bank we followed the sign, up the hill on a pathway to our destination. I guess we walked uphill and across the hilltop under trees, passing homes and gardens for about 20 minutes until we came to a gate welcoming us to Up the Hill. Once there we found a very rustic setting under shady trees. We were welcomed by Javier and his wife while we awaited the arrival of 2 other guests for the tour. 

The tour itself was wonderful. We followed pathways, downhill, over streams, uphill, under trees, ferns and through the farm which is set within a natural setting in that all plants, insects and animals are welcome. Everything is left to coexist, thus there are no chemicals or artificial means used. 

We learnt about 2 differing types of bamboo and their uses, coconuts and their palms, cassava, the calabash, Mayan spinach, various ginger and turmeric plants and roots, differing bananas, orchids, berries, Jack-fruit, seeds, flowers, plants, trees and more.

We tasted, felt and enjoyed an abundance of smells and tastes. We saw a tiny boa that one of the family’s sons brought from the chicken house to show us. We were shown many differing tiny frogs, some the red frog others pale yellow and others greens.

And of course we were shown the cacoa plants, the pods and even the flowers. All of which contribute to the making of chocolate. We were also proudly shown the farm’s coffee plants which took many years of trial and error to grow and perfect.

Evie and Lily were happy to spend a few minutes jumping on the family’s trampoline! 

Then it was time for our lunch and what an amazing lunch. It comprised of many of the plants we had seen. Mayan spinach, coconut in a soup, bananas with chocolate, bananas dried, Cassava strips and just so much more.

All very delicious. Meanwhile we were given a demonstration of the cacoa process by Javier. He also gave us a taste test, 1st we had a taste of a very, very, sour lemon/orange.

Then we waited a minute and popped a red berry into our mouths and chewed, following with the same lemon/orange. The difference was extraordinary! The same very sour lemon/orange was now amazingly sweet.

Why? The berry was Stevia. Lily and Evie were most impressed and gobbled the sour lemons/oranges as the taste was wonderful!

It was time to leave so back down the hill we went, the girls enjoying the muddy paths, so different from their 1st encounter with muck mud.

Dolphins; Zappordillas, Coral cay

We ended up doing our trip on a day that was forecast to be sunny, but was yet again overcast. However on reflection it was just as well as Im sure the girls and Katie would have been burnt. 

The park is described as: “two islands, ringed by golden sand beaches and coral reefs teeming with life, fall inside of the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park. Its famous crystalline waters and golden sands are ideal for snorkeling and diving during the right months. Otherwise, the water may be a bit cloudy and has a current on the seaside. These islands are also essential ecological sites for the critically endangered Hawksbill sea turtles that nest on their shores.”

We were taken from the Red Frog dock, the 1st stop being to watch the dolphins in the same area we had previously watched them. I guess the dolphins understand they need to show off for the tour boats as sure enough the dove, jumped and splashed around us.

Next was a brief stop at Coral cay to arrange our lunch and then off to the Zappordillas. The crossing was a bit rough as the surf was up, but we still flew across the waves out 20 or so minutes to the islets. They are indeed surrounded by sand and palm trees. Evie was in the water before anyone even realized, so after a false start we set off to find a good swim area for us.

We followed an inland pathway to the end of the the island and found the beach all but deserted. This end faced the other island with reef in-between. The surf was quite rough between the islands, but where we set up it was just a nice surf coming ashore.

We all swam, the girls agin really enjoying the surf. We ate sandwiches we had brought,

swam some more and then headed back to the pick up point/dock. The island itself is very much a tropical isle with coconut palm trees, hermit crabs and white sand, but it is also well used.

After leaving we went back to Coral cay to the restaurant where the girls enjoyed a frozen fruit drink and the hammocks. The next stop was to snorkel at Coral cay reefs. Gavin, Katie and the girls went in. They weren’t in for long as they found there to be a strong current running, plus the water was murky as if from coral spawn and the reef was nothing special. Gavin said it was very different from Bermuda reef, nice but not spectacular.

Bocas Town, final surf time

Our next and final family day was spent by a taking a panga ride into Bocas town.

John and I had a few things to pick up and they wanted to have a look around. We had a pleasant lunch of sushi as Lily and Evie love sushi.

Then back to Red Frog we went – they all went zip-lining while we returned Aeeshah to the dockside.

Our last evening was very nice. We went to Palmar for dinner and Gavin, John and the girls went swimming in the surf.

The girls just adore the surf now!  

I asked Gavin, Katie and the girls for a “review”and was pleased by what I was sent:

Hi Ma,

We all had a great time and enjoyed the range of activities. The girls loved all of the wildlife and adventure. They need to be kept busy and there was never a dull moment. It was also very educational for them to see different cultures, creatures and habitats. We got very lucky spotting some of the animals and insects. 

I think the most exhilarating moment for everyone was the bat cave. The numerous beaches were also a hit and I was very proud of how well the girls  handled the surf. My favorite activity was the cocoa farm, it was very interesting and even though a bit much for the girls I think they too enjoyed the different plants and fruits. 

Lastly the people of Panama were wonderful. I was surprised by the different towns, cultures and background of each group of people and how they existed separately but also functioned well together. 

“Love grows by giving. The love we give away is the only love we keep. The only way to retain love is to give it away.”  Elbert Hubbard

“The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. Eleanor Roosevelt