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After a great sail back with La Favorita from Lighthouse Reef Atoll, via Turneffe were we anchored off Blue Creek, we arrived and anchored in Cay Caulker.
Along the way we had taken photos of each others boats and tried to catch fish. No fish just seaweed was caught, but the photos were good!
Cay Caulker
This cay is a favourite of many. It’s sandy streets lined with gaily, painted, businesses and homes is delightful place to walk around.
You just never know what you might see with its laid back atmosphere.
Cay Caulker being a touristy place offers all the regular attractions, diving, swimming with rays and sharks, fishing, etc., at one end of the cay — the northern end — is an area called the Spit. We enjoyed walking there to just to look out over the lovely, clear, turquoise, waters and to people watch the many tourists.
Walks towards the southern end of the cay past all the differing homes, small guest cottages and tiny shops brings you to the airstrip.
It is referred to as an airport, but really it only hosts the small planes of Tropic Air and Mayan Airlines.
Follow this by a walk back along the shoreline along a rough track that serves as a “roadway” for even golf carts, but mainly pedal bikes. I enjoyed capturing the differing birds we would see.
One walk we took we followed this shoreline pathway past the airstrip, past the shoreline homes and guest cottages, through the mangrove area at the southern end.
Previously this area was quite undeveloped, but we found many new residences and construction underway for more. To me this was most disappointing as the swampy salt marsh was being destroyed. The birds were still there amongst the trash, building equipment and what remained of the salt marsh, but their habitat was destroyed.
Foods:
Chinese, sweet and sour chicken, fry jacks and fresh fish were the wonderful dinners we enjoyed.
Ever since we have 1st visited we have enjoyed take outs from Yummy, Yummy a Taiwanese take out/restaurant. So it was lovely to be able to enjoy them again.
And Fry Jacks we had to have some before we left. The dock we used daily was the fisherman’s dock, so we were often around when fish was being cleaned.
And of course we had to buy some for ourselves and Chico. One fellow cleaning his catch spoke of how he free dove to 60 odd feet to secure his catch. Each day after our walks we would indulge in a freshly made watermelon juice. It was very refreshing! We took a bottle of the freshly made orange juice to share for lunch.
Cay Caulker was a delightful place to end our time in Belize.
We had been waiting and waiting for a good weather window for our passage to Isla Mujares. We were going to sail with Tom and Kristie on La Favorita. The general consensus was that we would anchor off San Pedro for the night, check out and leave in the morning.
San Pedro, Ambergrise Cay
San Pedro anchorage is not wonderful. The holding is poor, the water is just about deep enough for our drafts and it is to windward, off of the busy town. However the idea was that it would save us all 4 or 5 hours sail up the outside. So we anchored up and took turns going ashore, checking out and whatever while we watched each other’s boats.
San Pedro is a crazy busy town, the roadways are jammed packed with golf carts, bikes and taxis. Folks walking hither and tether with very little sidewalk, one needs your wits about you at all times.
Tom and Christie had checked out first, we followed, checked out and bought some goodies from the French pastry shop for our trip.
Passage to Isla Mujares
Off we set, through the San Pedro cut, which was terribly rough. The seas were rolling in, we were motoring hard into the huge surf getting a good lot of spray over Aeeshah for the 1st time in 3 years. Outside in the open water the seas eventually settled into a normal pattern, we were headed northward towards Isla Mujares, Mexico.
The passage was not pleasant. It was far windier than expected with winds between 15 – 25kts. The seas were between 6 – 10 feet and from differing directions due to the current and wind conflicting. But, with the help of a 3kts current we traveled at an average speed of 7.5kts and arrived in Cozumel after just over 24 hours.
At Cozumel we anchored off of the Port Captain’s dock, just to the north away from a designated snorkel area. Chico was very happy to find dead flying fish on deck all for him to eat, yummy!
The sea there is amazingly clear. It must be due to the Gulf Stream current that runs through at a good 3kt clip. In fact though the wind was blowing at about 15kts from the southeast the current kept us firmly pointing its direction. Where we were anchored the airplanes were flying over head to land ahead of us, good for plane spotting too.
Across to Isla Mujares we headed early the next morning. There was a lovely sunrise!
Arriving in the early afternoon, the 50 odd mile sail was again accelerated by the strong current, 230 miles approximately from where we started.
Isla Mujares, Mexico
We had last been in Isla in 2017, so we’re quite familiar with where and what to do.
The next day was a Friday and so we started the check in process. And what an ordeal that was……
The 1st person to see us was the Dr. He was pleasant, filled out forms, answered questions everything was completed in a hour.
2nd was the Agricultural fellow, who was a right pain. We spent the rest of the day till 4:30 dealing with him. He became hung up on parasites. Firstly, he made us go and get Chico, he looks at him and all his documents plus passport, then sends us to a vet.
We get a taxi to the vets eventually arriving after the taxi driver mistakenly took us to the Dophinarian, then the Rescue animal centre. There finally at the vet, Chico is checked, admired, photographed as they had never seen such a handsome cat. We get a glowing medical certificate as everything is perfect. Are told all that was necessary was his rabies shots which were present and recorded in his passport.
Go back to the boat to drop Chico off. Back to the office to the Agricultural guy, who looks at the certificate, and all the documents again, shuffles them and says something about parasites.
Well, that was midday, there we sat for the rest of the afternoon while he “checked” something, then left with all our documents, telling us to wait. I was most irritated, pissed right off….… He returned with our documents at 4:30, hands them back with no explanation, not diddly squat.
The only good that happened was the customs guy was with him and he processed us within 5 minutes and didn’t ask to board Aeeshah.
We had to finish the check in on the Monday by seeing the Port Captain. Now we expected, maybe a few hours…….took until 3:00pm. Again, we filled out forms, waited, were told to return at 1:00pm, then waited and waited. Finally after 2 full days of waiting in a small hot office we were checked in.
The first weekend brought a Northerly. This one was quite strong, winds of up to 37kts. The anchorage is not a good one, holding is not reliable and there are many cruising boats.
The only good part about this front was it arrived in the daylight hours. Our friends on La Favorita and on Latitude both dragged. Both of them were fighting the weather for several hours. And as it turned out both had windless issues which made it even more challenging for them. We were really blessed as we stayed put.
Isla Mujares is a very colourful isle. The Mexican architecture, the street art — murals, the unusual carvings and small decorations that you find are fantastic. Every walk you do you can find a treasure.
We have had many walks around the town area. (However what I do find disconcerting are the number of people, (maskless). From spending over 2 years in quite isolated areas where if you do go out you have to be masked up, then entering crowds of tourists hussleing along the streets, I found it to be unsettling, almost like I’ve developed a phobia.I need to get used to what is normal life.
Cancun for the day
We decided to cross to Cancun for the day. Why? Well believe it or not John wanted to visit the big mall. The Mall Las Americanas. The biggest around. He was desperate for new t-shirts and shorts. Off we went on the ferry. Then by taxi to the mall. There we wandered around around for 4 hours or so. Yes, we did purchase a few items, but not much. It was all just a bit overwhelming.
Punta Sur
We invited Derick and Carol to come along to the southern end of Isla Mujares, Punta Sur. This point of land is noted historically as an important Mayan “ruin” and also as a beauty spot, understandably it is also very popular with the tourists.
Isla’s history dates back over 1500 years when it was part of the Maya province of Ekab. The island served as the sanctuary for the goddess Ixchel, the Maya goddess of the moon, fertility, medicine and happiness.
For the Mayans their Temple for worship of the goddess Ixchel was located at the South point of the island. The temple has disappeared long ago but there are remains of the ruined lighthouse. They used the rocks piles at the point as their lighthouse. The light from torches were shown through holes in the walls, which could be seen by the navigators at sea. As the Maya also came to the island to harvest salt from the salt lagoons. Nowadays there is a new lighthouse that shines.
We set off early for us at 9:30 catching the bus from just near Oscars. This is a hop on, one fee, bus that circulates the Isla. We all hopped off near Punta Sur and walked along to the park. The views are just wonderful looking out from the cliffs above the sea.
There are modern day statues their to commemorate and pay tribute the Mayan Goddess Ixchel. At one there was a Shaman performing a ritual or blessing. The folks were dressed in Mayan types of clothes and seemed to be leaving foods/tributes beneath the statue to the goddess Ixchel of the moon, fertility, medicine and happiness.
We headed right out to the tip of the point where the ruins of the lighthouse are located enjoying the views along the way.
After which we followed the steps and pathways that go below the cliff and trail along the waters edge. 5 years ago when we last visited these pathways and trails were in much better shape, but since then they have had a hurricane and obviously there was some damage that has not been repaired while other pathways have been changed completely from before.
It was quite exciting at times along the sea side pathway trying to dodge the breaking waves while crossing the broken path.
The colours are just stunning. And as most folks don’t risk going along these lower paths there were fewer people about. When we had been beneath the cliff face we saw about half a dozen police with big guns pointing out to sea.
In the distance we could see a patrol boat following some people trying to swim to shore. We overheard folks saying that they were migrants from Cuba that had been ditched from a boat. Whether that was true, who knows, we never saw them get ashore nor if the boat managed to pick them up in those rough seas. By the time we finished with our cliff side walk and shoreline pathway all was gone.
Punta Sur is a lovely, lovely point.
We left and awaited a bus for our return trip. However we had no idea where it would take us. As it turned out we were taken all the way into the town. Let off on one side of a roundabout only to board again and continue back all the way to Oscars.
Each day we have tried walking a different area or route
and I think we have now just about exhausted our options.
Around the large pond, along the lanes in the town, along the walkway leading along the east side of town, around the airstrip, just all over the isle.
Another favourite was when we walked again with Derick and Carol all the way from Punta Sur along the cliff tops that run in front of the houses on the east side to about halfway down the isle.
It was a lovely sunny day, a hot one, so we set off early. The views were wonderful and the iguanas numerous. Yes, iguanas living in the cliffs above the seas, crouching on the rocks below, running along jagged edges.
There seemed to be families of them. Large males bobbing their heads at smaller females with small juveniles looking on. I think the folks living in the neighbouring houses feed them as we saw fruit peel and coconut halves left near where they were found.
After a good way along the east shore past some pretty beaches we crossed the road to have a look at the cemetery.
Here as in many Central American counties the dead are put in tombs that are adorned to pay tribute to the departed.
It is always interesting to see the various personalities attached to the different tombs.
Still further along in our walk was a wonderful display of murals. The murals are depictions of differing aspects of life here in Isla Mujares. Plus they reflect the Mayan beliefs and culture still very much alive.
Another excellent morning walk followed by lunch at Oscars.
John and I revisited the cliffs along the eastern shore and continued to walk along the shoreline and pathway. It again was just beautiful!
We also visited the little cemetery in the town. We were just passing when on a daily outing and so popped in. Again the cemetery made for interesting browsing.
We have seen some crazy sights…..The craziest is overloaded tourist boats. Not just one or two but dozens! They just pile these cats with people and then off they go.
We have had a few bad weather days and nights. At this time of year the region is blasted by northers that bring high winds and of course lower temperatures. We don’t mind the low temperatures but the winds are very stressful.
The first norther was as mentioned during our first weekend. The second was worse. It started during the evening, went through the night and continued the next day. The winds didn’t go as high just between 25 – 30kts, but they were persistent. Again boats dragged, one was a catamaran that was anchored just behind us.
They had arrived, dropped the hook, gone off to the beach and we don’t think they even checked in. The boat just took off down the anchorage, hitting a monohull then a dock of a marina and all the time nobody was topside. Plus at the same time others were dragging through the anchorage. The reason being, the bottom is turtle grass on top of thin sand. We have been ok so far, but we do have a near 200ft of chain out. I am just hoping to leave before the next northerly. It’s time to move on again.
