PHOTO ALBUM –>>> Off to Jack’s Ranch Pt1 — https://photos.app.goo.gl/w6Wszr3v93vUkSvy5
I found out we were going to Jack’s ranch 3 days before we headed out, and then knew virtually nothing of what to expect. All I heard was that, John had been chatting with Jack at the pool bar and expressed interest in his ranch, so an invitation was extended. The only other info I was given: it’s like camping and it’s work. Plus I needed wellington boots. Luckily for me Muriel and Tuddy had some for me to try out.
Sunday
Off to La Torre we went to meet Jack, me with mixed expectations.
The journey to Jack’s ranch for me, was magical. We met Jack at La Torre for 10:00am. He told us what we might need in the way of foods, snacks, drinks and extras…not much really, as the jeep was already fully loaded with supplies. After which we hit the trail, heading down the main road out of Fronteras towards Belize.
This road wanders through settlements, past small farms and homes. It’s a very beaten way with deep potholes from the mining trucks, which Jack tried to avoid, often having to dodge across the road, around large trucks and slower traffic.
Arriving at a muddy, potholed track, which we followed to the end where we saw the river. Jack’s man Juan had brought the river boat, a flat-bottomed skiff to pick us up, plus all the gear Jack had brought. I did sort of wonder how we all and it all was going to fit.…
Before we set off the propeller had to be changed on the skiff, as Juan had had a few mishaps and so the one on the skiff was all bent up.
Next we unloaded the jeep, Juan retrieved numerous empty gas containers from the skiff, which were then put in the jeep and off we drove to fill them with fuel. Meanwhile Juan had to load everything into the skiff. Once we returned to the skiff we finished loading up with the fuel, climbed in and we were off down river.
To the right was Guatemala, to the left Belize. There was absolutely nothing but thick dense jungle on the Belize side, while at first there were pastures and fields with a few trees on the Guatemalan side.
We saw virtually nobody else, just 2 kayuckos with solitary fishermen.
Further on there were no buildings, or homes of any type on the either side, just jungle.
It was very much the middle of nowhere. We sped along for 24 miles down river to get to Jack’ place taking about 1 1/2 hours.
However well before we got to the turn off, Jack said the property line began. He has 3,300 acres, but farms/ranches only 1/3 of it and the rest is jungle.
So, we suddenly swooped to the right, and into this small canal we shot, still at full speed. This canal was narrow with trees and mangroves along the side with their branches above creating a green tunnel.
After a few minutes we swooped into another bend and down another canal, this one as beautiful but with less foliage to dodge. Jack told us the United Fruit Company, (now Chiquita Brands International), originally dug the ditch back in the 1960s.
Still further along while still going full speed we turned again, this ditch was cleared of the trees on either side and had been excavated by Jack and his men……it was the canal leading to the farm. There in the distance we could see the farm buildings.
The country side is just breathtakingly beautiful. Birds of numerous types swooping all around, the green of the fields, the elegant tall trees, the wooden farm buildings with the mountains behind, blue sky just behind all paint a surreal picture out in there in the middle of nowhere.
We settled in, I made sandwiches for lunch, we made beds, packed foods away and got acquainted with where we would be bunking for the next 5 days.
Yes, it was very rustic, frugal but also functional.
I just found the surroundings astoundingly beautiful and a feast for my eyes. Just sitting on the porch watching the birds swoop by, the turkeys wandering past, the sheep and cattle grazing was pure entertainment.
But we were to be off, out on the ATV buggy, Jack on front, John driving and me sitting behind, zooming through the fields, through the long water soaked grass.
Yep, the fields look wonderful, but they are water logged, thus the canals that run along the edges. Now at first riding along was nerve wracking, as I knew John had never driven this type of contraption before and here I was just perched on the back. We had to stop at barb wire gates to enter fields then we went up the sides of the fields onto the ramps above the drainage canals.
Why were we doing this? Apparently, not for entertainment, we were out going along these boundary lines looking to see if there were any problems. Jack was observing work that had been completed and work that needed to be completed.
For example dredging to drain the fields of as much water as possible or clearing the weeds from the grass for the cattle. At one huge hole in the mud we became stuck, we finally got going again, but John lost his nerve and Jack took over driving.
Riding along the top of these ridges was mighty scary at first, as you have deep mud to the right and deep muddy water at the bottom on right, neither way do you want to fall.
We did one whole borderline and then went back and headed to the creek.
Well, just before the creek we got really stuck deep in the mud. Jack dug in deep with the throttle, the wheels spun and finally we were out of the mud hole, but me being on the back was covered in black mud, just covered! Even some on my camera, but I knew to leave the mud, let it dry and hopefully shake it off. It was to be my initiation to the mud of Jack’s ranch.
Back at the ranch, I managed to shed the boots, drop the clothes and climb into the shower to rid myself of all the mud.
Dinner is early so that we avoid the mosquitoes and have some light. We ate on the front porch and then retired upstairs for the rest of the evening. Reading, gazing out across the fields, chatting and relaxing were the evening pastimes.
Monday
What a morning!! …… Up at daylight with the birds, lovely sunrise, howler monkeys crying in the distance from the mountains, sheep bleating and turkey gobbling all around.
Scrambled eggs and toast to eat and tea for me, coffee for them before we hit the trail. The men – rancheros arrived and went off to drive a herd of cattle back to the nearby fields to ready for weighing for market.
As soon as the men and 100 head of cattle returned we were off. The objective was to go by the skiff to the other farthest corner of the property, then to walk the boundary lines back. Sounded fairly normal, straight forward however I was wearing Wellington boots for the first time ever.
The skiff took us slowly along the canal of the southern boundary. Jack and Juan discussing work to be done, changes to make etc. All the time there were numerous birds flying and swooping past. Across the fields you could see all types of birds, some I’d never seen before, like a huge Wood Stork.
Along the sides of the canal, water lilies grew and thousands of crabs crawled along with huge insects into the grasses to hide.
And then we were at the corner where we climbed onto the muddy bank.
Now those fields look like lovely green pastures that one could gallop a horse across, but they are not. They are full of water, which makes deep mud in the hollows. They have stumps, rotten logs, deep holes, boulders and snakes.
You have to pick your feet up high, pulling the boots out of mud while stumbling over the long grass, logs and boulders all of which are wet. Damn hard work! All the while following the group, trying to keep up plus take a few pictures, in the sweltering hot sun, not a stroll in the park, more a slog in the mud.
We followed the boundary line of barbed wire, “field” to the one side and jungle to the other. Again this was a reconnaissance mission for Jack, checking the state of the fields, checking the work that had been accomplished through the month, looking for what needs to be completed. Here his main concern was the state of the grass.
This grass was cane grass which had grown head height and had gone to seed. Also the weed that was growing between was not good. Well, it didn’t take me long to feel tired. It was still early, 8:30, but getting just so hot. I kept up pretty well, but could tell I wouldn’t be able to continue all morning. (Found out later the temperature was in the low 90sF) We saw a few of Jack’s water buffalo in the distance. And I learned they can be dangerous too.
There was a whistle and a call, the group of workers that were out spraying had found a fallen bull. Oh, the poor animal, it’s leg had slipped into a hole and broken. It couldn’t get up and was in so much pain, his eyes were glazed in pain. The decision was made that the butcher was to be called, Mr Bull was to be put down and his meat sold. (Apparently he went for about $210 he was about 600lbs in weight.)
Off again we trudged, the terrain became muddier from the streams running off the mountains, they called them creeks and under ground rivers.
Crossing streams, creeks whatever, my boots would get so stuck nearly to the knee that I thought I’d never get free. The mud just sucks you down, then you loose your balance and if your not careful down you go. I never fell, but many times I needed assistance to get out of the mud.
Jack’s objective was to walk the border, climb to the ridge, look out, climb down, walk the rest of the boundary back. However, he had also arranged for one of the fellows to bring a skiff down one of the canals, to walk across and meet us incase we needed to go back with him.
By this time I’d had enough and over heating, all my water gone. It was getting close to 10:30 and I’d had enough……so I jumped at the chance to return.
John too was exhausted, told me he was shattered, he chose to return, but Jack went on, he needed to see the boundary.
The walk to the skiff was still challenging. Believe it or not we had to retrace some of out tracks and then walk the edge of another muddy canal crossing several very muddy ditches. But Jose, who was with us would help me across all the obstacles.
The sight of the skiff was very comforting indeed, I could not have continued much further.
John too was very tired, we just sank onto the hot ,muddy, seats and enjoyed the breeze as we drove home along canals to the ranch.
Enjoying the magnificent scenery all around us. Just amazingly beautiful, wild, free…
Once there we both downed a cold coke and rested our tired bones.
John had to take the 4 wheel drive back out to meet Jack along the boundary at the creek.
I literally just dropped my boots, shed my clothes and stood under the cold shower, that cold water felt so good.
The afternoon was much quieter. John and Jack worked on the mule, fitting a system for spraying the fields. I relaxed, read, wrote, tidied up and watched them working on the mule.
Evening again was quiet, early dinner of soup and delicious tortillas that Maria had made followed by a game of Rummikub.
