Off to the Sapodilla Cays

Sapodilla’s Cays PHOTO album link–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HaHwSQAdJnMsWjin9

Underwater PHOTO album link–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/rcUf3wabcPSd3Qag7

Off to the Sapodillas

We wanted to visit areas where we had not been before. The weather looked settled and just about perfect for a visit to the Spapordilla cays. These Cays are on the outer ring of the Belize reef line. They are in the South eastern part of the outer cays. The whole area is a national marine park reserve. This system covers an area of 38,595 acres and is considered one of the top sites to see the true biodiversity of corals throughout Belize. There are 7 main cays all of which have a reputation for being beautiful, quiet, interesting with excellent snorkelling.

We set off from Placencia with the idea that we would start at Tom Owen’s cay. The passage over was a peaceful sail followed by a motor sail as the wind lessened. 

We ended up by passing Tom Owen’s and anchoring off of North Sapodilla and Frank’s Cay in deep sand outside the reef and inner bays. 

That afternoon we dinghied in to scout out the reef and the two islands. The reef looked lovely, and the water crystal clear. From the dinghy North East Sapodilla looked wild and Frank’s Cay looked abandoned and interesting.

We stopped at the small cay next to Frank’s Cay, which apparently, according to the cruising guide, used to be part of Frank’s when charted in 1835 but has since been weather worn – fragmented away. 

The sands there were very gooey where you could tell mangroves used to be growing. I sank down to nearly my knees a few times, not really very pleasant feeling. We could see Frigite Birds nesting in the branches of a casuarina on Frank’s Cay near an abandoned home. Everything looked very exciting for our explorations of the next few days.

Frank’s Cay (Grass cay)

Bright and early we set off to explore. This cay used to be where the Reef Conservation International was located. Apparently there had been accommodation, a bar and restaurant, scuba center and more.

Well, it’s not there now. All that stands are what used to be the buildings and rusty equipment. Everything is being taken over by the forces of nature. There are no pathways, the ground is covered by vines. Hermit carbs of many sizes crawl everywhere. The birds have reclaimed the trees, and hopped around the branches above our heads, totally unafraid of us explorers. 

We walked all around, surprised by the disintegration of what used to be. Our greatest find was a pair of large mangrove crabs that were hiding in an old water cistern. 

Northeast Sapodilla

This island, our second stop, was totally different. The cay was surrounded by coral rock walls that the sea had formed over the ages. On the inside of the island when one looked from atop these walls, it appeared to be swampy. We could see large ferns and other vegetation that frequents wetland, swampy environments. 

The shoreline also was quite rocky with some sandy beach areas. We just seemed to wander off around the isle. John was ahead, I was distracted by shell hunting, and being quite successful.

I found many lovely shells, but only kept the few I liked the best, stuffing them in my bathing suit to carry them meant I also only had limited room.

On the far reef side I saw John climbing the hull of a wrecked sailboat. It was laying inside the reef line and had been laid bare by the sea. It’s name was “Green Flash”. Walking through the shallows over the rocks and sand clambering under the low hanging branches of the Buttonwood trees reminded me of our days in the Bahamas. It really was a fun walk all the way around the cay.

Our morning snorkel off Northeast Sapodilla along the reef line was excellent too. The corals and fish were numerous and varied. I even saw Rockfish, which is quite rare these days. 

Our afternoon snorkel was off of the inside reef line that was to the north of us. The corals were spectacular! Extremely healthy corals of many differing types.

The Stag horn coral was abundant, as the water was quite shallow there were plenty of juvenile fish. That was an excellent afternoon snorkelling.

The next day John and I headed off to see what the other islands looked like and if it was worth moving our anchorage closer to them. We dinghied along the reef line towards Nicolas cay.

Being as it was Sunday we could see several folks enjoying the cay, so we bypassed it and carried on towards Hunting Cay.  We crossed Nicholas Cut which is a deep cut through the reefs to outside the reefs. The water was unbelievable turquoise blue, just beautiful. 

Hunting Cay

This cay is called the gem of the Sapodillas due to its beautiful beaches and amazing reefs. We tied up to an old dock situated about half way along the cay.

Behind the dock were the ruins of what we guessed used to be a restaurant or such. Signs pointed to trails, but the undergrowth had taken over any old trails and they were no more. Along the beach and shaded grove of trees we wandered. The only sounds were of the birds calling to one another.

We came upon the old Immigration building and quarters for the staff. All closed now due to the covid times. The few parks fellows were behind their building doing chores. There was nobody around the coast guard quarters but music played from within.

We had been told they were all down to minimum staff, but hoped to have more when and if restrictions were lifted. Really the whole set up looked in need of finances. Wandering along the fuel dock we could see nothing had been used for quite a few years. We had a very sweet companion follow us, a young female dog, she was full of energy even in the hot sun.

Following a sign we went behind the buildings and came to a bay on the other side of the cay. This bay was a perfect horseshoe bay and one of the beaches where the turtles lay their eggs. 

We concluded where we were anchored was perfect, so not to move the boats.

Again we snorkeled the afternoon away. This time on the reef near where the boats were anchored.

Once again the corals were stunning, the small reef fish numerous and colourful.

A barracuda made an appearance, but then disappeared.

John decided to fly the drone as the wind was non existent. This would be the first time other than at catamaran that he was able to enjoy flying it. We went ashore to the little cay next to Franks.

I wandered around, while John got the drone up and about.

Meanwhile Derrick and Carol had been doing their own explorations, basically the same as us but at their own times.

However Derrick suggested exploring together the next day.  So, the following morning off we set the first destination being:

Nicolas Cay.

Being a Monday there were very few folks about. We tied up to a tree off a beach near an old home on Nicolas Cay. This cay is frequented by fishermen and their families.

We walked around the entire cay, not being that large it didn’t take long. Along the way we had a look at the deserted buildings and wondered wether they were old homes or small resorts.

There were some fly fishermen off the shallows to one end of the cay.

To me it looked like mullet they were casting for, but apparently it’s some type of bone fish. Derick is a very keen fly fisherman, he said the fellow casting off of the boat had probably paid at least $700 for the privilege  of casting for these fish.

Nicholas is a very clean pretty cay. 

Lime Cay

We skipped up to Lime Cay in the dinghy next and could easily see that this was not an anchorage as the surf was rolling up the beach. Again this is a very pretty cay with lovely beaches. There we met a couple and their grandson.

They have this small resort which is mainly used by Guatemalans who visit from the Rio on their very large fancy motor yachts.

The resort is quite rustic, but very well maintained. The grandson was very happy to show us around. 

Hunting Cay

We dropped anchor off the beach and went ashore for a walk about. Once again visiting the main dock. It was very quiet as there were only the few Coast Guard  men there. The Ports folks had gone to the mainland for fuel.

We ended up lounging in the water off the beach. It was such a hot day being in the water was the best place to be……

And back to Placencia

We decided that the weather was breaking up, winds were less predictable which indicated time to move. There was a great sailing angle for Placencia so off we went. Sailing the entire way about 25 miles in under 4 hours we arrived just before 1:00pm. Along the way our wifi signal kicked in and I had a message from a friend in Placencia to say the covid vaccinations were taking place at the clinic.

We dropped anchor, check it, tidied a bit, and zipped off for the clinic. Sure enough they were vaccinating and after a hot 45 minutes wait we were ushered inside and given our covid 19 Astra Zeneca vaccination. 

Like all explorers, we are drawn to discover what’s waiting out there without knowing yet if we have the courage to face it. – Pema Chodron

There are only moments. Live in this one. The happiness of these days. – Kate Millett 

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