Belizean June days; permission granted; into the Rio Dulce

Photo album–>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/E9mPjGMV1zzZU59e8

Summer weather patterns begin

The weather was definitely shifting into the summer pattern of squalls, thunder, lightening and stronger winds from any and every direction. We left our Blue Ground Range anchorage and crossed to Sapodilla Lagoon which is very sheltered in all weather. Unfortunately while crossing we lost our boat buddy Rodney the remora.

Rodney had been with us for close to a month, eating all that we threw over-board and watching us when we swam.

Sapodilla Lagoon

was where went to shelter from the weather that was approaching. This is a very sheltered lagoon that has an inner lagoon where the marina is found.

While there we visited with friends and had several very nice walks in the Reserve. The cloud formations and reflections caused by the weather were just amazing, but the horse flies that plagued us drove us away after 3 days.

Back to Placencia

we went as we were due to re-up/extend our visas yet again. Placencia is a wonderful anchorage, but not at this time of the year. We were once again visited in the middle of the night by an unexpected massive squall. The wind blew like crazy, rain fell, and the thunder and lightening were ever present, worse of all were the large seas rolling in.

Placencia Lagoon

That was it for me… enough, so we moved into the Placencia Lagoon. We had never been in this lagoon, so we slowly, carefully made our way in once the seas from the previous night had laid down. What we found was a wonderful sheltered anchorage in the outer lagoon area. Now the weather could carry on all around us and we would still get a good night’s sleep.

This lagoon is quite a plain area of water, but when you have certain weather clouds and sunlight the scenery is magical.

Re-up again or re-entry to the Rio Dulce?

So back at the end of May we had been very hopeful of entering the Rio Dulce on the first high tide of June. Everything seemed to be going well, all the authorities were coming together with a plan. We had submitted our info weeks before and really thought we would be one of the first boats to enter.

After all, we were coming from Belize, a disease free country, we were considered “older” folks, our boat draft of 5’ 10” required a higher tide and we had signed up in good time. However, Aeeshah was not chosen to enter the Rio Dulce on that high tide of the month. We were very disappointed, as most of the other boats in Belize were going.

Then, just like that, there was a complete change on the entry arrangements. The entry dates were open to “first come first served” bidding, but by this time we were too late for the good tides at the beginning of the June, so we selected and were granted permission for June 21st.

We had already been, yet again, to Big Creek to do our very expensive “re-up” – extension to stay another month. Even the authorities there did not understand why we could not go with the other boats, why we too had not been selected. The Belizians have been wonderful to us, so welcoming and helpful, they made us feel welcome to stay for as long as necessary.

Passing time in Placencia

By this time it was getting a wee bit monotonous, the heat was crazy and we didn’t see any point in going anywhere so we stayed put in the lagoon. Our friends on Rainbows End had also lost/missed their entry date and came into the lagoon anchoring near us.

Each day we would go into Placencia, get a few supplies, have a walk around, saying hello to all our local friends, enjoy an ice cream at Tutty Fruity, get take out dinner from Ma Ks or a Belizian Pizza from Cha Chee’s.

Some days we had lunch with friends Pam and Don and Rene and Michael at local restaurants. And we managed to fit in a grilled lobster lunch at Dawn’s Place as lobster season had opened! It was wonderful!

We were asked by friends in the Rio if we would deliver their batteries that they had bought earlier in the year in Belize City. They had been amongst the first group that wayyy back in the beginning of March had run for the Rio before the border shut, leaving their new batteries behind.

Arrangements were made for the batteries to be delivered to Placencia fuel dock, John with Don’s help retrieved them and loaded them onto Aeeshah. Their combined weight was 300lbs.

Rene and Michael had been taking care of a local guest property – Sailfish. Rene had also been running the local net on the VHF to give news up dates to all the cruising boats, “stuck” in Belize.

After a while there was just 6 of us cruising boats left, and by the time we were finally to leave we left 2 others there. Rene and Michael had a very nice leaving afternoon and dinner for us.

We said our farewells, checked out finally, made sure we had food to last till early July and headed out.

Heading south

As we had no choice about our entry date (which again had been bumped now to June 19th), we had little choice about the weather we travelled in. The day before we set off more very bad weather moved into the Belize area. Again, squalls with heavy rain, thunder and lightening plus high winds. When in the anchorage it really didn’t matter, but while moving south it meant a quite uncomfortable, tense journey. (Belize had been in a 2 year drought, this weather broke the drought, caused floods, main roads to wash out and crops to be ruined.)

New Haven

Our over night stop was at New Haven, this too is a very large lagoon like bay. On our way there we were ahead of Pam and Don by several hours as they had left later trying to avoid the bad weather rolling in. We were an hour out of New Haven when they contacted us to say that they had lost steerage.

Their boat was simply going in circles, the wheel was not responsive, please help. We started back, this was of course into the wind and weather we had just left behind. After about an hour of ploughing back we heard from them – they had managed to get the emergency tiller set up and so were able to proceed, but would we stand by just incase help was needed. So we did an about face and headed towards New Haven.

We had another night of constant squalls, but this bay was so sheltered we were able to get a good nights rest. (Our rain gauge measures 5” and was full, so at least 5 inches of rain fell that night). In the morning John helped Don by providing a screw for the tiller and then we had a look around the bay.

Around New Haven

I do believe that in good weather, the bay must be stunning. The land is thickly forested, with 1 abandoned house/shack and a couple of strange storage containers. Hard Luck Harry once had cash crops growing here, pineapple, citrus, mango and such. The land is now just wild thick forest, with an over abundance of no-see-ums.

Near the shore we could hear what sounded like hundreds of birds nesting in the huge trees. At one beach I waded ashore to get a photo of some wild orchids, that’s when the no-see-ums started to bother us.

Off to Livingstone

As it was another overcast, rainy day we set off for Livingstone with hopes of out running the weather. The skies were deep blue black with thunderheads rumbling behind us, ahead was clearer skies. Pam and Don on Rainbows End went ahead of us, just in case they had any problems, but all went well, they made it with no issues. We arrived at the Livingstone sea buoy where we dropped the anchor. The fishermen were just heading out for their night of fishing/shrimping, we were surprised by the huge number of boats.

Anchoring off of the sea buoy was not an option we would have chosen as there is no shelter from the seas or weather, but this is where we were told we had to stay for the night. It was not a night to be repeated. It was rough and uncomfortable!

We were up and having tea by 5:30am just as the fishermen/shrimpers were returning from their night out. Watching their very rustic boats racing in with dozens of frigate birds, pelicans, boobies and laughing terns swooping, calling and competing for spoils from their catch was very entertaining.

Over the bar, into Livingstone

Meanwhile we lined up our approach to and over the dreaded bar.

So what is this bar: it is a long wide section across the mouth of the river which is shallow. Only during the high tides at the full and new moons does the bar have the depth for many sailboats with deeper keels to successfully cross into the Rio Dulce – Sweet River. Off we went just after 6:00am, down down down the depth sounder went, 00.05, 00.04, 00.03, 00.02, 00.01 and then 00.00 – No, we were stuck,

but just for a few seconds as a wave came and up we went, then on bottom again and so it went until finally we had hopped with the aid of the sea over the bar. Opposite the town dock we anchored near Rainbow’s End our buddy boat, awaiting the authorities.

The arrangement had been that we make the anchorage between 6:00 and 7:00am and the authorities would be available to check us in. However that proved not to be the case for us few that arrived that day.

The authorities arrived at 2:30ish. The whole check in health check was very simple. I filled out a few documents, John answered a few questions, we had our temperatures taken and our agent Raul’s nephew told us he would be back in an hour with our paperwork. Which meant we received our documents around 4:00ish, too late to proceed to Catamaran Marina.

We were not thrilled about spending the night in Livingstone off the town as firstly it has a reputation for having some very talented sneak thieves, secondly you have to deal with the wind, river flow and such. John slept in the cockpit most of the night keeping watch, but all was fine.

Up the Rio Dulce

Next morning 2 more boats crossed the bar just after 6:00am and we set off up the Rio Dulce for our home dock at Catamaran Island. Words could never truly describe the passage up River and through the gorge.

The scenery is amazing! A large variety of birds are everywhere, flying, roosting, swooping, you can hear their chatter and calls from the thick foliage lining the shores. And, wow! The insect shrills, screeches and whistles competing with the croaking frogs and toads tell of the abundance of wildlife.

It really is a most wonderful journey to take and on this day we had the most perfect weather. The skies were clear with a few clouds and a lovely breeze blew. Even Chico sat on the deck absorbing the view and chattering to the birds.

We passed the locals out with their nets and floats furiously casting and pulling, hoping for a good day’s catch.

The homes along the shoreline nestled in the forested shoreline, the occasional launcha speeding down river, the small villages where folks glanced out and waved to us, the Rio Dulce has a special flavor all of its own.

Across El Golfette

After the gorge we crossed the lake – el Golfette, this too was lovely as the clouds and mountains reflected on the lake formed wonderful reflections.

Of course my camera and I were very busy. We were then headed along the river again towards our marina passing the homes on either side.

Arriving at Catamaran

we were greeted by friends and staff who tied us up safely. We of course had to wear masks and were/are not allowed to have contact with the dock, but we were back and might relieved to have arrived safely.

The staff presented us with a wonderful goodie bag! Of which we have enjoyed every morsel of the cookies and banana bread, in fact it’s time for more – need to order from the kitchen……