PHOTO ALBUM :—->>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FTkCrSXUmVKM9uJZA
Ethan arrives:
Ethan our 19 year old Grandson, arrived when when we were on our last day of our Antigua adventure. We met him in Guatemala City and then travelled back to Antigua where he was surprised by how much he remembered of the old town.
Back to the Rio
Ethan travelled back to the Rio with all of us on the Litugua bus. The ride was painless, no traffic jambs, no accidents, no bridges down, just a normal boring ride.
For the first few weeks we were quite busy getting the last few projects finished and preparing to leave the Rio.
Cabinets in our cabin and rigging
I had wanted cabinets in our cabin to put our personal items and clothing away out of sight. Finally we had found a fellow Carlos, and he arrived the day after we returned to take final details. Carlos actually spent most of that day measuring, cutting, sanding fitting the cabinets and then he took the pieces away to varnish and perfect. He was back later in the week with the finished products and took the morning to install them. Now, they are exactly what I wanted, maybe not quite the perfect stain/varnish, but they are structurally perfect. Finally I was able to stow all our clothes, electronics, bits and pieces securely away in the cabin.
John had ordered a new back stay for our rigging. He had Ethan help him replace the old with the new. The back stay had been troubling him for a while, he was suspicious that perhaps it was compromised and sure enough when he looked at the old one of the strands of wire had broken. John and Ethan did a great job replacing the back stay.
Ethan spent some time at the pool too. So he kept busy with helping and relaxing. And popping into Fronteras with us.
John’s cataract surgery/appointment
John and Ethan went to Morales to get John’s cataract surgery/appointment. They left at 6:00 got the 7:00am collectivo and arrived for the 7:30 operation. John did not want to spend any nights there so after the operation they returned. The eye operation was once again a success, so John now has 2 perfect bionic eyes. That second eye had also just about become blinded by the cataract growth so again he finds the change in his sight just amazing.
Walks
We managed to squeeze in a few early morning walks. And these times we saw the water buffalo, plus they were harvesting the palm oil crop.
We had a week of tremendous rains, one night getting 8 inches! It was supposed to be the dry season, but someone hadn’t told the weather systems. The Rio can get a bit tiresome with so much rain as mold starts to grow as does the green algae.
For us it was time to leave, the full moon was just a few days away. We finished up our few unfinished deeds and needs and said goodbye – “see you soon” to our friends and left Catamaran on November 22nd.
Chico was not as concerned as I thought he would be. He had been wandering free on the island for months, everyone spoiling and fussing him and being able to be independent. All he did was a few meows of protest and when we anchored up at Texas Bay he walked around and around the deck looking for a way off the damn boat.
After leaving Catamaran we headed down river and across El Golfete to Texas Bay.
The previous week, as said, had been rainy and this was the 1st day with a decent forecast and so the sun was peeking out from behind the clouds. At Texas Bay we found there weren’t as many boats as we had thought. We anchored and then after lunch set off to dinghy around the mangroves.
Dinghy riding through the mangroves
There are numerous channels that lead to large enclosed lake type areas, there are water lilies, with birds running on their surfaces, vines hanging from the trees, spider lilies, massive mangroves, dense foliage and of course numerous birds calling, soaring, roosting and watching from above.
These waterways are just lovely to explore. We all exclaimed at the reflections, the air was still with no breeze and so the shores were perfectly mirrored in the water making for a total abstract appearance.
We never did go to Texas Mikes’ for Thanksgiving, for one thing they ate at 3:00pm and for the other my guts had been unsettled for a few days.
Checking out of Guatemala
Up at 5:30 the next day and off for Livingston we were.
Down the gorge of the river with its steep steep sides of dense foliage with early morning mist arising, past fishermen in dugouts casting their early morning nets or pulling the ones previously set. The river is always a treat to travel, just stunning.
Poor Ethan now had the bad stomach so he missed the down river gorge trip. In Livingston we anchored up and set off ashore to check out. Paperwork wasn’t as ready as promised apparently bad communication between Raul and his nephew was to blame. Anyway, we checked out, got back to the boat, hauled anchor and headed to the bar.
Crossing the bar:
This is always a tense time, one has to time ones crossing to coincide with the moon’s highest high tide. We had the 8:45 November full moon tide of 1.5 feet which was the best it had to offer. We had waypoints from friends that had crossed 6 weeks previously and we followed the course very carefully. The lowest we had was 00.00 under the boat, we did slow by a knot, but we must have slid over the sludge as we made it across.
Mangrove Cays and Frenchman’s Cay
We headed towards Belize as the wind was blowing westerly Tres Puntas would not offer shelter. Our first destination Frenchman’s Cay turned out to also not be as sheltered as we had hoped so we went into Mangrove Cays and found a very sheltered anchorage. We were more or less protected from all sides should the weather come up. Ethan really felt quite sick and my intestines were still protesting, John decided that the water must be to blame. So he assembled the water maker, dumped all of what water we had and made fresh. By the next day we were both feeling much better.
Some exploring….
Again the next day we made water and then set off to see what we could see. We dinghied through the mangrove cays to Frenchman’s Cay where we landed the dinghy on the shallow beach.
The story of this cay is that an American had a house and a few animals on it. Living there for some years like Robinson Crusoe…… We walked the beach and found lots of sand fleas, heading up into the bushes was a small path we followed finding boggy mangrove areas, plenty of coconut trees, hermit crabs and more biting bugs.
We did not hang around, I cannot imagine living among those no- see- ums, mosquitoes, midges and sand fleas. We took the dingy around the island and crossed back to the boat, later having another short dinghy ride and then a swim.
Placencia
The next stop was Placencia, leaving Mangrove Cays at 9:30 or so we arrived in Placencia at just after 3:30 on the Sunday afternoon of November 26th. We stayed on Aeeshah until dusk and then went in the dinghy to Yolli’s Bar to use wifi and have a drink. There were several locals that we had previously met still there propping up the bar. It was then in to the neighboring Paradise Hotel for dinner.
Checking into Belize
John went over to the dock master in the morning to start the process of checking us into Belize. After he returned we went ashore and walked to the Hoiky Pokey ferry which we caught to get to Independence, where we got a taxi to customs, immigration and health where we got our papers stamped and sorted.
Back at Placencia we went for an excellent lunch at Rick’s Cafe, the food was the best in a long time. We finished the day by getting our wifi, a load of groceries and plenty of fresh fruit and veg and finally a great swim off the boat.
Around Placencia
Tuesday dawned a lovely day. We went ashore after breakfast to walk and explore the town with Ethan. Placencia has an attractive shoreline and it is always pleasant to walk. There are always many crafts for sale, interesting buildings and people.
After a drink at the Tipsy Tuna, our favorite bar on the shoreline, we walked to the main road, stopping in shops for the last few items we would need for our trip.
When we returned to Aeeshah we could see large clouds forming and approaching, sure enough the rain arrived turning the day into a cloudy, rainy late afternoon and evening.
Ranguna Cay
Off to Ranguna Cay in the morning leaving around 10:00am we arrived in the early afternoon. The wind increased and the sea got rougher on our way, sure enough windy rough weather was approaching. There we picked up a mooring buoy and secured for the night.
Then it was off for a snorkel despite the rough conditions we headed over to the reef to have a look.
Due to the rough waters the visibility over the shallows was very poor, however we did see a few sharks, loads of conchs, rays, and schools of jacks, so we were pleased we made the effort to go. The weather deteriorated until the wind was blowing up to and above 30ks, right through the night it howled, I was soooo very glad we were secured on a mooring.
Blue Ground Range and South Water Cay
The next day all was calm and off we headed to Blue Ground Range where we spent a peaceful night. The following day we arrived at South Water Cay early in the morning. This is a wonderful cay situated right on the edge of the reef and so we were off to snorkel for the morning.
Off to snorkel
SouthWater Cay sits right on the barrier reef. It is a very beautiful cay covered in palm trees and with a few colourful buildings. We had visited here last in May. This time snorkeling at South Water was not quite as impressive, maybe because of the time of year but there were fewer schools of fish.
However I really enjoyed the corals on the reef and Ethan and John enjoyed going out to the deep blue reefs. That afternoon we again snorkeled, this time off of Carrie Cay across the cut. There we saw some large rays and more spectacular corals.
Long Cay
And then it was off to Long Cay. And again we saw dolphins swimming along side us as we sailed and motored. Plus we managed to catch a small tunny for Chico, it actually kept him with fresh fish for 5 days.
Belize is full of wildlife! Long Cay was more of a convenient secure anchoring spot for the night than anything else, however we decided to dingy around and see what we could spy. Well the cay is 2 and 1/2 miles long and for some reason we went past a fishing camp, through a cut to the outside, and started up the rough, shallow outside shore and never stopped.
We just kept thinking that the next turn would be the “end of the cay”. However we did get to see a large group of manatees, Ethan was impressed with their size. Plus we saw all the lagoon entrances, many birds and a second fisherman’s camp. After an hours ride we had circumnavigated the whole of the cay.
Cay Caulker
The next morning was another early start this time for Cay Caulker, our final destination with Ethan. We headed out of the main channel into the deep blue, reason being to avoid Porto Stuck, the notorious shallows on the inside track.
Plus on the outside we could thrall and perhaps catch some Mai Mai or tuna, however we had strikes and near misses but not a fish was hooked that day. However the sail was brilliant, doing 8 knots at times we made excellent time. It was a bit hairy surfing over the reef and through a narrow cut back to inside the reef, but all went well and we were in Cay Caulker just after 2:00.
Once we arrived and anchored up we headed ashore to stretch our legs, have a look around, pick up a few supplies and of course…..to get the best ever Chinese dinner. We go to Yummy’s on the Main Street, the food is always freshly made and I love their Sweet and Sour Chicken. Again we were remembered and received a warm welcome.
Ethan’s first day in Cay Caulker we walked about and showed him a good bit of the island. It really is a mini paradise especially for the young and adventurous backpackers. When he saw the tiny airport he suggested he fly to Belize City for his return. It’s easier and nearly the same price as the ferry and taxi, plus a heck of a lot quicker and nicer. So into the tiny office we went and booked his flight.We arranged for him to do the Shark Ray trip, the following day. This is actually a trip that takes you to numerous sites, provides food, drink and rum swizzles at the end.
The next morning we said “see you later” to Ethan and off he went, while John and I did a long walk around the southern end of the cay. We then spent the day doing various chores, when low and behold our friends, Louise and Gary arrived on their catamaran in the anchorage. Later in the afternoon they headed ashore with us to look around and to meet Ethan from his tour. We had a very pleasant happy hour at a beach bar and were in place to meet Ethan’s boat. Ethan reported that he had a wonderful day! And saw loads of large sharks and rays.
Ambergris Cay
Louise and Gary joined us the next day as we went on the ferry to Ambergris Cay to rent a golf cart and tour the cay.
We all squeezed onto the golf cart and set off towards the northern end which is all parkland and reputed to be full of birds. The “road” turned from tarmac to sand and rock once we were a few miles out of the town so it became quite a bumpy ride. Along the shoreline for most of the way there were empty resorts either being built, or had been built which to me is very odd. Who would want to stay way out there with nothing around? Still further we found the road ran just behind the beach.
Unfortunately for Belize they have had a massive amount of sargassum seaweed end up on their shores, nobody seemed to know why this has happened this year, but there it lies. The seaweed is lying in mounds and rotting on all of the ocean facing beaches and it reeks, so what would have been lovely white beaches are now piles of rotting weed with trash mixed in.
This road ran along the top of what would have been a lovely beach and then we got to a point, next to yet another building site and it just disappeared! No more road, so we couldn’t get to the parkland to possibly walk a trail.
Secret Beach
Back we headed, however we branched off on what was another road/track that headed across island towards what was sign posted “Secret Beach”, it sounded intriguing. The track took us to the inside – western side of Ambergris. There we found a very touristy set up alongside a constructed beach area, obviously this was the answer to the seaweed if you were looking for a beach to cook on or swim from. We had a stroll around, checked the expensive prices, climbed back into our cart and headed back to town for lunch.
There we found a nice beach front bar/ restaurant and had great fish lunches, all except Ethan., he had beef quesadillas. After lunch we had a drive passed the airport, stopped at a grocery store, returned our cart, bought a new battery. From a hardware store and headed back on the ferry. It was a pleasant day even with Ambergris being somewhat boring and it ended with a spectacular sunset!
Ethan leaves us
The following morning we were up early and headed to the airport for Ethan’s tiny plane to Belize city. It was sad to see him go, but we are sure he will return again.
