Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Day of the Dead and the Giant Kite Festival

PHOTO LINKS BELOW:-

1st, Visiting Antigua with friends

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5646D8ukDeJY1zae6

2nd, Lake Atitlan, Panajachel, San Juan La Laguna and Santiago Atitlan

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VsBucmTzLmT3xPF87

3rd, Feria del Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite and All Saint’s Day religious rites and procession.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TtnKa2BTCAogBHeG8

Visiting Antigua with friends

Along with our friends Pam and Don we agreed to head to Antigua for an adventure. Pam and Don’s friends Tamera and Scott made all the arrangements for a group trip. Tamera had worked as a travel agent and was able to make the bookings, plus Scott speaks great Spanish so could communicate well with the people involved, so we were all set up. Davinia also joined our group, and on October 28th we all set off from Backpackers Hostel aboard our private mini bus to Antigua.

The journey was uneventful, just a stop for lunch and so we arrived at our home for a week, “Posada La Revolution” at around 3:00pm.

The place we called home for a week was a 4 bedroom home that is let as an AirB&B.

I just loved its decor. Being owned apparently by a fellow with Cuban connections the house was full of Cuban memorabilia and antiques.

After settling in we set off for a walk around the area to the town square. Antigua was just as we remembered it, just as charming and bustling with activity.

The day after we arrived poor Don was very ill with a stomach bug so he was confined to bed. Scott, Pam and John and I went off to get some groceries for the place and to confirm our travel arrangements for the coming days. It certainly made life more comfortable having a kitchen at our disposal. For the rest of the day John and I just roamed Antigua

Cerro De La Cruz – Cross of the Hill

was our first stop. This is about a 15 – 20 minute walk uphill and is really well worth it as the vantage point looks out over Antigua.

We also had a great view of the Volcán Agua – Volcano of Water and to the right Volcan de Fuego – Volcano of Fire, which had erupted recently in June and continues to puff smoke daily, plus next to it Acatenango Volcano – also known as Tres Hermanas (Three Sisters) volcano.

We were a bit late for the clear sky of the early morning, but still the view was just lovely and well worth the climb.

Roaming the streets…

Our walk about took us past the oh so many gorgeous buildings and had us wandering for several hours. Antigua was first established as the capitol in 1543 then in 1773 there was a disastrous major earthquake which damaged most of then capitol. This is why a number of the buildings have ruins as part of their structure.

Parque Central is the central point/park. The north-south roads are avenidas or avenues. And east-west roads are calles or streets. Therefore we find it fairly easy to navigate our way around due to the avenidas and calles.

Lake Atitlan

Our group were up and out of the house for 5:30 the next day for our trip to Lake Atitlan. The lake is a beautiful volcanic lake in the western highlands of Guatemala. It is well known for its beauty with some saying it is the most beautiful lake in the world. The lake has three volcanoes:- Volcan Atitlan at 3,537m, Volcan Tomiman at 3,158m and Volcan San Pedro at 3020m that are on the edge of the lake making for stunning scenery.

The formation:

My research told me that there was a tremendous eruption of 85,000 years ago called Los Chocoyos, which expelled so much magma from below the earth’s crust that the surface terrain literally collapsed forming a huge, nearly circular hollow which then filled with water and formed the lake we have today. FYI:- (apparently ash from that explosion was found as far away as Florida and Panama).

Enroute:

To get to the lake there was a drive of a few hours passing what looked like excellent farming land with fields full of numerous crops. Then there was a downhill run of several hundreds of feet, we were more or less off the slope and onto the flat when the brakes failed and our transport rear-ended an older gentleman on a motorbike. Oooops, within no time help arrived, the gentleman was assisted to his feet and our driver was being questioned. It appeared that luckily not much damage had been sustained.

We were at Panajachel, the launching point for the various launchas that taxi folks around the lake, where we were met by our guide and taken for breakfast and to our launcha.

When we approached the lakeshore just looking out over the water with the clear, blue, morning skies reflecting in its surface and with the volcanoes in the background really was awe-inspiring. It is an area of great natural beauty.

Across the lake we went to the small town of San Juan. The inhabitants are the Tz’utujil and are known for and proud of their textiles.

After off loading we tracked up hill through the village. Our first stop was a small art shop, then we entered a women’s cooperative selling fabrics.

There we had a demonstration showing the production of the beautiful fabrics from the picking cotton being hand spun. The dyes are all from natural sources such as plants, whose sap saturate the raw cotton thread, which is then soaked in a banana sap bath. This banana bath sets the dyes.

It was just fascinating, simply amazing how even the full moon affects the color of some plant dyes making for a brighter color.

The lady then showed us how the weaving takes place, all by hand on looms of various sizes. The products are really superb, I purchased a lovely wrap/shawl which is double sided and in divine blues.

Up the hill we continued to the local medicine woman. Again it was fascinating to see all the herbal remedies for simply any type of ailment.

Still further up the hill we found the church and had an excellent view of the village and lake below.

Santiago Atitlan

Our next stop was around the lake shore to Santiago Atitlan. The Lonely Planet guide book says: “Santiago Atitlán is the largest of the lake communities, with a strong indigenous identity. Many Atitecos, (as its people are known), proudly adhere to a traditional Tz’utujil Maya lifestyle. Women wear purple-striped skirts and huipiles embroidered with colored birds and flowers, while older men still wear lavender or maroon striped embroidered pants. The town’s cofradías (brotherhoods) maintain the syncretic traditions and rituals of Maya Catholicism. There’s a large arts and crafts scene here, too. Boatbuilding is a local industry, and rows of rough-hewn cayucos (dugout canoes) are lined up along the shore.” All of which we found to be true.

Here we all got into 2 tuk-tuks, yes 3 per vehicle in the back, it was quite a squeeze. Off we went stopping first to visit an elderly lady who had marvelously woven and embroidered fabrics and items for sale. She then demonstrated how the local ladies wore their hair bound in a band that twisted around and around their heads, quite astonishing I thought.

Then we went a bit further to see a local “shaman” performing rituals, I am sure they do, but this seemed a bit “put-on” for the visitors to me.

Off we went again visiting a memorial to slain Mayans and then to a vantage point to view the volcanic peak across the bay. It was a lovely view so we did a group shot.

Next stop was lunch followed by a walk through the streets passed the shops and market venders downhill to our launcha.

Across the lake we travelled back to Panajachel.

This time the waters were a bit rougher, but the scenery just as spectacular with the afternoon sun and clouds that were moving in from the highlands.

Preparing the tombs and graves in Antigua

The following day we had no outings planed, however it was the 31st of October, yes halloween in North America, but here, in Guatemala this time of year is the lead up to – Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead – November 1st. A couple of days before Dia de Los Santos, families start to prepare the tombs and graves of the beloved to assure they look good for the big day, when the spirits of their loved ones return.

Many families spend time cleaning, painting, and decorating the graves with lively colors. By the time November 1st arrives the cemetery is adorned with everything from single roses to enormous wreaths. We wanted to visit the local graveyard and see the families preparing the sites.

We walked to the large graveyard in Antigua and as we approached we could see the approach road was lined with street foods and stalls selling trinkets even stalls set up for games.

When we entered the graveyard we were greeted by locals and given prayer cards. Further inside we could see that flowers abounded, families were cleaning, painting and sprucing up the grave sites and tombs.

Even the gold engraving was being refreshed on some tombs, there was a happy atmosphere as they converted the cemetery into a colorful garden.

In the background we saw Fuego puffing smoke while families prepared for the return of the spirits of the dead. I found the whole experience just fascinating…….

Antigua’s market

Then it was off to the market for a visit. We lucked out at the market, the stalls were fully stocked with absolutely every type of fruit and vegetable from mulberries, to plums, to fresh peas, all kinds of spices, herbs and nuts, just a feast for the eyes.

I just wish all places had such markets instead of plastic grocery stores. We bought very little, but wandered for a good while up and down the many aisles of stalls.

Iglesia de La Merced

We revisited a favorite ruins and church – Iglesia de La Merced is a baroque church and dates from the seventeenth century. It was established as a male monastery and suffered damage in the 1773 quakes. This damage remains and is where the old monastery stood.We walked along the second story for views of Antigua and down on the old fountains of the monastery.

That evening we walked through Antigua looking at the various halloween festivities. To most folks it seemed like a good time to enjoy a night out dressed in costumes.

November 1st, Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead

November 1st, Dia de Los Santos, All Saints Day, Day of the Dead, we had arranged to go with a guide to the Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite. Every year on November 1st, the people of Santiago and Sumpongo Sacatepéquez celebrate the Day of the Dead by flying giant colorful kites.

Sacatepéquez Barrilete Gigante/Festival of the Giant Kite

We arrived in Sacatepéquez in the morning and the town was already swarming with folks. Off we walked to 1st visit the famous cemetery. On this day, locals take their homemade kites to the nearby Sacatepéquez cemetery, to honor the departed. “The 3,000-year-old tradition of flying colorful kites on the Day of the Dead derived from various religious practices and locals believe it’s a way to communicate with the dead. They dress up in colorful clothes, clean-up the graves of their loved ones, cover them with colorful flower petals and even have picnics right there in the cemetery. It’s a happy celebration where people have fun and honor those who are no longer with them.”

According to local legend, each November 1st evil spirits invaded the cemetery to disturb the good souls resting in there. The discomfort brought to the souls of the dead causes them to rise and restlessly roam the streets and local homes. As this phenomenon persisted only on each “Day of the Dead”, the villagers decided to consult with the elders. The solution that was recommended by the elders, was to force the the intruders to leave by having a clash between pieces of paper in the wind. The elders advised that the impact of the wind against the paper takes away the bad spirits. For this reason, the locals spent hours making kites so the good spirits remain calm and they stop receiving unwanted visits from these bad spirits.

1st The cemetery at Sacatepéquez

Arriving at the cemetery after squeezing in with the flow of people we could see that many grave sites were beautifully decorated and families were indeed enjoying time with each other. Some little boys were flying kites from a top of monuments, everyone was having a great time.

Then we set off to join the flow of humanity heading to the kite festival where the giant kites were to be seen. It was just a human crush getting to the football field where the festival was taking place, but we all made it unscathed by pick pockets or such.

The kites are an amazing sight! Just enormous, beautifully designed and created with great care. Known as “barilletas gigantes” in Spanish, the giant kites of Sacatepéquez are masterpieces.

They must take great skill and patience to complete as the detailed pictures are wonderful. Apparently months before the Kite Festival, teams of people begin work on the colorful kites that will bring them great honor and the respect of their peers.

The giant kites are made of cloth and paper tied to a bamboo frame, and features a colorful design, usually with a religious or folkloric theme. In recent years, designs have been hinting at the ever-growing corruption of the Guatemala government. Most of the kites we saw had messages for Mother Earth and caring for the natural world/environmental concerns.

The giant kites are brought to the Field near the cemetery in the morning, but they don’t take to the skies until dusk, when people have finished tending to the graves and enjoyed a good meal.

We however did not want to stay till evening and so after a few hours of watching and admiring the kites we set off back through the hordes of people to our van and Antigua.

El Fiambre

Once back we went to a wonderful restaurant close to our residence for lunch. Scott and Davinia ordered the famous dish of the day: El Fiambre.

This is a salad made with more than 50 ingredients that include vegetables, sausages, meats, fish, egg, and cheeses. It is usually eaten with the family gathered either at home or surrounding the tomb of a loved one. This dish takes about two days to prepare. The most common dessert is a sweet squash, sweetened with brown sugar and cinnamon, or sweet plums or chickpeas drenched in honey. Their salad – El Fiambre looked wonderful, but huge, and they only had the 1/2 dish.

The Escuela de Jesus procession

At 3:00pm there was to be an important procession from a nearby church that we were advised by Marco our guide, not to miss, as it was very special. Off we went a bit late, but we found a good vantage point along the street down from the church, Escuela de Jesus.

The first thing we noticed was how everyone was dressed in black, some women had gold veils covering their heads, there were church persons dressed in various religious robes.

The atmosphere was somber, dark, serious, as we stood watching the procession slowly pass. There first approached folks forming lines along the route, again all in dark clothing, through them came others with large canisters billowing smoke, we guessed to ward off the evil spirits.

Then approaching slowly an enormous “float” made of wood and sculpture all being slowly carried or borne by lines of carriers.

They were proceeding at a steady slow pace to a very soulful dirge-playing marching band. The weight of the float must have been tremendous, the look on the faces of the bearers was of true suffering or deep concentration, maybe even prayer. It was absolutely incredible!!

I was very curious as to why and could only imagine they were atoning for sins. What I did find out was that the procession through the cobblestone streets of Antigua, marks the end of the Day of the Dead, All Saints and All Souls.The Roman Catholic Church: Escuela de Jesus, created the float with the lifeless body of Jesus being mourned by the Virgin Mary and the Angel Gabriel at hand.

It is borne by numerous men and women – the faithful – throughout the streets. It is carried down the cobblestone streets these numerous bearers, honoring the spirits of their ancestors, those who had suffered and died, and for those who still carry great burdens/sorrows. While the accompanying band plays somber music which are laments thus expressing mourning or grief, as would be appropriate at a funeral. They set off at the church at 3:00pm and continued until mid-night, finishing at the same church.

One of the most incredible processions, the atmosphere was all encompassing.

After that unforgettable scene we went back to the house for a excursion to Scotts friend’s place for a very nice pizza dinner.

Saturday found us going to Guatemala City where I got my hair cut, we picked up a few supplies and headed to the airport to meet Ethan, our Grandson. All went painlessly and by the afternoon we are back in Antigua with Ethan.