Belize May 2018: Alan’s visit, Cay Caulker to Placencia

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BELIZE

Ambergrise Cay/checking in

We arrived in Belize on May 5th, crossed the cut in the reef at Long Cay and sailed north to Cay Caulker where we anchored off the fuel dock and dive resort as per usual.

As it was a weekend we decided to leave checking in until the Monday, as we knew the officials in San Pedro would be few and far between. Monday we got the 9:00am ferry from Cay Caulker to Ambergris Cay and made our way to the airport and the immigration officials.

Upon arriving we were given hell from 2 nasty officials. They told us we had to enter via the cut in the reef of Ambergrise Cay, anchor off San Pedro, and then call in or tie up to one of the marinas and get an agent. We explained we can not enter by the poorly marked channel – it only has 1 yellow buoy marking it, the anchorage is too shallow for us, plus it has poor holding, we are not able to call as we have no phone time, nor can we go along side docks that have very shallow waters. Well this nasty woman would not hear it; she said we should not have come. Finally she spoke to her associate who again spouted off a list of to dos that we cannot do with our boat. I noted they did not even have VHF for us to call them on. Finally they got on with what they were there to do – checking us in. Our next two stops customs and Port Authority were very welcoming and easy going. However we will not be entering Belize via this port ever again, next time when we enter from the north we will go to Belize city.

Cay Caulker

Is a lovely laid back community. We spent our time getting the boat ready for John’s brother Alan’s arrival, doing all the usual chores and rearranging the boat to have him in the bow cabin. Plus we walked around the cay, enjoyed a few excellent sweet and sour chickens from my favorite Chinese eatery, and made friends with other cruisers in the bay.

One couple Derrick and Carol off Latitude from South Africa and another couple Daniel and Brigitte off from France ended up traveling with us off and on all the way to Placencia. We had several fun evenings and wanders around with them – they are all headed to the Rio Dulce too.

Alan arrived Wednesday 16th May; we had taken the ferry to Belize City to meet him. The brothers were happy to be reunited after several years; they had much to catch up on.

We headed back to Cay Caulker and Alan explained that his niece, Gabby was backpacking in Central America with a boyfriend, Laurence, they were diverting to hook up with him for a reunion.

So upon arriving on Aeeshah we went back ashore to meet Al’s niece Gabby and Laurence who had arrived on the next ferry from Belize City. It didn’t take too long for Alan to find his niece and her boyfriend so we proceeded to a popular outdoor bar/ restaurant to have a drink.

The following day Alan went off with his Gabby and Laurence to do a popular water site seeing excursion, John and I got the boat ready to leave the next morning. So finally May 18^th, we left to explore the cays of Belize while heading to Placencia.

Drowned Cays

Was our 1st destination with Alan. We sailed south towards Porto Stuck the notorious shallow channel in the company of Daniel and Brigitte on their boat. Actually going through the channel of Porto Stuck was absolutely fine we had at least a foot below the keel at all times. In the Drowned Cays we anchored in the brogue off of Gallows Point.

Once the anchor was set we went for a dingy ride around through the mangroves looking for manatees. That evening we went aboard Daniel and Brigitte’s boat for drinks and snacks, having a lovely evening as the sun set around us.

Colson Cays

Was our next destination. These are a small group of 5 mangrove cays that were said to offer good snorkeling, 3 blue holes, a bird nesting cay plus a mangrove lagoon. We spent 2 days exploring the area.

On our first day we went in the dingy around the lagoon and the southern most cays. The mangrove reflections were lovely as the waters were dead calm. As we passed the lobster/fishing camp we were under the observation of 2 older local fishermen and their dogs. The dogs were very curious about our presence they even tried to swim to the dingy to say hello.

Back at the boat we swam and snorkeled around. There was little to see except large colourful starfish living in the turtle grass. After we got out I spotted an enormous green turtle surfacing not far for the boat.

Day 2 in the Colson Cays found us circumnavigating the northern cay and Nesting Bird Cay. At Nesting Bird there were a few late nesters, numerous cormorants took to flight as we rounded the mangroves and several frigate birds were roosting and soaring on and above the mangroves.

We found the blue holes and snorkeled the first. Above the water they appeared blue, but under the water all was green. You could see how the ground had literally shifted and collapsed and cracked where once there must have been underwater cavern.

There were all types of fish hiding along the ledges, a shark, snappers and other reef fish. The depths varied around the hole with the top edges being turtle grass and the bottom being a mix of grass and soft debris. I found the experience to quite eerie.

After lunch we snorkeled a reef area off of the southern cay that was supposed to be excellent reef snorkeling. I found it to be moderately good as there was quite a bit of algae and several large lionfish present, meaning the reef was under threat. We then went back to snorkel the other blue holes.

Again the blue holes were fascinating, following the edges and cracks with the fish hiding and peering out of the crevices. This time there was a huge school of rainbow runners circling and stingrays to watch.

We also snorkeled the mangroves that were nearby which again was a new experience. I had some small type of crustaceans attach themselves to me and they bit me! Looking them up the closest creature looked to be a ghost shrimp that burrow in the shallows.

Tobacco Range

Was our next destination. There we had planned to spend the day anchored off Tobacco Cay and the nights in Tobacco Range, but plans changed and as the weather was settled we spent a night off of Tobacco Cay. The cay is an attractive isle, fringed by palm trees and colourful cabanas of a small resort.

The story behind its name is that early English settlers tried to grow tobacco here. The cay sits right on the barrier reef so the waters are beautiful blues and turquoises with shallow reefs beneath. We snorkeled the inside shallow reef. Again it was an average reef, some lovely coral and again I found a shark snoozing under a reef ledge.

South Water Cay

Located just 10 miles beyond Tobacco Cay was our next destination. This cay is very beautiful with lovely beaches, immaculate grounds surrounded by tall palm trees it sits on the barrier reef, but also has a large cut to the ocean on its southern shore.

After arriving we went ashore to explore the cay. Landing at the southern beach area we walked along the western shore following a pathway towards the north.

The isle is beautiful and the locals even rake the sandy pathways and under the palms making patterns on the sand. There are a few small eco types of resorts and a research station for students studying the oceans. The atmosphere was one of complete relaxation. The next day we snorkeled the cut on the southern end of the cay.

Leaving the dingy off the beach we snorkeled out the cut and along the outside of the reef. It had been unusual weather with winds from the west so outside the reef was relatively calm compared to the usual seas crashing in. The corals were amazing, in excellent condition, the fish life was also wonderful, many many schools of fish of all types. John and Al even saw a group of large friendly tarpon. It was an excellent snorkel.

Carrie Bow Cay

Is right across the cut from South Water Cay cut, so in the afternoon we took the dingy across and went for a snorkel. This cay is used by the Smithsonian Institute along with Cambridge University as an atoll and reef research station. It too is a small, lovely palm fringed cay.

I found the snorkeling here to be some of the best! The corals were magnificent, the reef and fish plentiful and varied. It was wilder, with a stronger flow over the reef. John and Al even had the thrill of being surrounded by a school of barracudas, I was happy to miss that experience.

South Water Cay Pass, Queens Cays Pass and Hatchet Cay

From South Water Cay we passed through the cut and headed south towards Queens Cay Pass. It was a very still day; the seas were dead calm and glassy with just a slightly rolling swell. We hoped to catch a fish, but the seaweed was still rolling in large quantities.

We also hoped to sea a whale shark as it was the time and place for them, but there were none about. Arriving at Hatchet Cay, I was very happy to see mooring buoys as the previous night we had spent at anchor when thunder, lightning, winds and rain passed. We didn’t go ashore, but we could see that there was a small resort with a restaurant. The winds did increase during the night and turned to the west along with a nasty chop it was quite rough by the morning. Our plans were to head to Ranguana Cay, however that was now where the wind was coming from…..

Placencia

Our 10 mile, 2 hour passage to Ranguana turned into an all day passage/slog to Placencia. The wind was blowing right into most anchorages, the seas were up and we needed a safe anchorage, so Placencia it was to be. In Placencia the seas were rolling in, so much so that at the usual landing dock at Yolli’s had the seas rolling right over the dock and up to the bar. Placencia has very good holding and we anchored off the town dock with the cut behind us and we’re happy to be there.

In Placencia we found that Daniel and Bridgit had arrived too. He had suffered a back injury when he had a fall and was in a bad way. We got them ashore and I spoke to Yolli and her husband Regan, they then arranged a trip to the doctor, plus helped them get much needed supplies.

Then one evening we noticed a local boat trying to reach the town dock. It was under sail, heavily laden with canoes and men. It was one of the local fishing boats. John took the dingy over to ask if they needed help. He was the only cruiser that went, despite the fact that there were a good 13 boats in the bay. It turned out that they had been out at Lighthouse fishing. The engine had stopped working 3 days previously and they had been trying to get back in ever since. They were very grateful for the help as were their families all waiting on the town dock.

Meanwhile the 3 of us walked and toured Placencia, which is just a wonderful little village. The people are very friendly, the buildings and signs are colourful, the pace of life is dead slow, it’s a village one never tires of wandering through. At Yolli’s Al was taught the ring game, we all enjoyed a cold drink and relaxing.

Monkey River tour

We arranged to do the Monkey River tour on the Monday, the day before Al left. We met our boat and driver at Placencia town dock for 8am and sped off towards Monkey River town.

This “town” is quite a small settlement just off the beach at the mouth of Monkey River. The settlement has a small reserve up the river where they have Eco tours.

After reaching Monkey River Town for a brief stop and to pick up our guide we headed up river to see the wildlife. We proceeded slowly, stopping to view iguanas in trees, Jesus Lizards, egrets and other birds, plus Howler Monkey playing in the treetop.

At the reserve we stopped to walk inside the jungle. There we saw and were told about the many differing plants and their uses and our guide called the howlers.

Edmund made a similar call to the howlers plus banged his machete against the tree trunk and sure enough he got a response and soon we head and saw the howlers above us feeding in the treetops. I guess we spent about an hour in the jungle and then headed back to the boat.

We then headed down river searching for the crocodiles. We found a crocodile sunning itself on the riverbank and then it was off to lunch at Monkey River Town.