PHOTOS HERE –>> Up the Rio Dulce, Guatemala or https://goo.gl/photos/n9c9pUZjJMq7x6Ax7
On July 3rd we were headed to Rio Dulce along with a group of 4 other boats, Dutch, Canadian and American folks we had met in Utila. Why all together? We all needed the same super high tide of the 4th July 06:45 hours in order to pass over the bar that is at the Rio Dulce’s mouth.
This was an over night passage that took us just 20 miles off the Honduras coast. John and I plus the Dutch boat Rafiki gave the reefs off of Utila a wide berth. We had been told that while the charts show depths of 100feet they were not accurate.
Two of the other boats chose to sail into the sun and through the reefs/banks off the Utila coast – why? Because they were foolish and sure 
enough one of them hit a reef. They were momentarily on the reef and then, luckily for them released with minimal damage.
The passage for us was more or less a straightforward downwind sail that went well arriving off the coast of Guatemala around 5:00am. The seas had been very rough and it seemed everything inside the boat was thrown around; there was a big mess below. The wind was up to 30knots and blowing into where we were, but we tucked in and anchored off Cabo Tres Puntas ready for our 4th July early morning assault of the Rio Dulce bar.
After a restful day and night we arose in time to motor across towards the Rio’s entrance. As it got closer we could see Livingstone the settlement on the side with the entrance to the river behind. Nothing is ever as one imagines. To me the Rio and immediate area looked much larger than imagined.
We had been given way-points, (co-ordinates), of the best line of approach and way to cross over the bar. As we lined up and followed the points the depth got more and more shallow, it was like tucking our tummy 
in to squeeze over a fence. The depth went to 0.00 and stayed there with the depth alarm sounding for a good 4 minutes and then it got deeper and deeper again. We were over!
Along with all the boats we set off with. Two other boats that arrived a later and did not seem to follow the same tracks got stuck on the bar, but with a coordinated effort between them freed themselves and did 
eventually cross.
Our agent Raul came out to us along with the authorities. It was very easy entering the country all we had to do was hand over our documents and sign a few papers. After about three minutes they left for the next boat leaving instruction to visit Raul’s office for our finalized paperwork.
Livingstone is quite unlike anywhere else we had traveled to, this largely Garifuna town is fascinating in itself. The town Livingstone is called ‘Buga’ – mouth – in Garifuna, for its position at the river mouth.
Unconnected by road from the rest of the country it does however have cars and trucks that have arrived via barges and are just used in Livingstone to drive around the few streets delivering goods. They say that if everyone is on the road in their vehicles at the same time there is a halt in the movement of traffic as the roads are totally jammed. Boat transportation has to be quite good here as it is the only form of transport and you can get up river, to Belize, the cays and Puerto Barrios with a minimum of fuss. We enjoyed walking around exploring the few streets taking in the colourful sites and buying wonderful fruit.
Once our paperwork was cleared we up anchored and headed towards the entrance of the river gorge.
Every hurricane season hundreds of cruisers check into Guatemala and make the trek to the hurricane-safe environment the river provides. This year I am told 1,200 boats/cruisers are somewhere on this river. Now we too were 1 of these cruising boats heading up river.
John and I really feel that few cruising experiences are more stunning than a trip up the 
riverfrom Livingston. Cliff walls of limestone 500 feet tall flank the gorge sides whittled away by the Rio’s water flow over millions of years.
Trees of numerous types have taken root on the rocky 
cliffs with first one and then the other reaching higher and higher upwards to gain the light of the sun. Thick vines and tendrils from some trees plummet in the opposite direction to the water. On every other tree branch, huge bromeliads and purple orchids spring outward. White herons dot the deep green foliage as they bob lazily on limbs; cormorants air their wings and rest atop sunken logs. It is quiet, but for the sound of the birds singing, breathtakingly beautiful, mystifying and inviting.
Looking across the water against the dramatic backdrop, you can spot fishermen quietly huddled in their Cayucos (dugout canoes), some others of them standing to throw nets, while others of them are tucked under the bottom canopy of overhanging branches. They lower and raise hand-fishing lines connected to something that will float, a piece of Styrofoam or a plastic bottle. Patiently they wait in the hopes of catching a perch or better yet a Robalo. Then a river taxi will fly by carrying visitors up or down river to their destinations.
As we slowly made our way up the Rio around the bends and u turns we took photos and videos trying to capture the magnificence of our surroundings. Our journey from the mouth to Texas Bay where we stopped for the night was about 10 miles and took us just over 2 hours, but time seemed to fly as it was quite the incredible journey.
At Texas Bay we were again surprised by being able to wind our way into a secluded almost lagoon type anchorage – it was like being anchored in a large pond. There we found a number of friends anchored too, Steve and Anna on Bad Kitty and Rian and Rob on their friend Jeff’s boat. Everyone was there for the promised celebration of dinner and fireworks at the Texas Bay bar.
John and I explored in the dingy the surrounding canals and mangrove areas connecting to the main river and tributaries. Again it was just incredibly beautiful, all the different trees, flowers, butterflies, dragonflies, vines hanging down into the water, the water lilies along the surface and all reflected on the water’s surface. For a photographer there is a feast of images!
The indigenous people have dark, raven, hair and the warm caramel skin of the Mayan heritage. When passing their thatched wooden homes that are built on stilts over the water, they are hesitant to openly gesture or gawk. However once you smile and wave in their direction, they respond in kind. The children appear to be very happy playing, swimming and fishing in the Rio.
The sailboat Rafiki that we had traveled with from Utila arrived and together we enjoyed the evening at the Texas Bay bar. As it was a special occasion a pig had been roasted. It was delicious! Fireworks went off in spurts, the local children were totally enthralled by the firework display. It was a great 1st evening on the Rio.
Off we went the next morning, from Texas Bay the journey changes as you cross El Golfete a 9 nautical mile long lake. The morning we crossed the lake was a perfect sailing breeze/wind. So up went the jib and off we sailed smoothly across the flat surface of the lake. Just incredible to think we were way inland in Guatemala sailing across a lake.
Towards the end of the lake we curved in our passage around a few islets, down a dogleg and arrived in Rio Dulce marina zone. The marinas are on both sides of the river with the large Rio Dulce Bridge with the town of Fronteras at the end and El Relleno at the other. Under the bridge and on the other side are several more marinas and finally Lago de Izabal/Lake Isobel.
We chose to anchor in Ensenada Nana Juana, which is the area where several of the larger marinas – RAM Marina and yacht club and Nana Juana – can be found. Our reasoning was that we needed to check the area and the marinas before we decided where to base our 
selves. We had been advised by friends about the different marinas, but we needed to see for ourselves if there was one that would suit Chico, plus have faculties for Ethan and Rhianna who were soon to arrive for a month.
Off to visit the town we went and what a surprise it is when you first arrive. The town of Fronteras AKA Rio Dulce lives up to its name and is a real “frontier” town with stalls selling every imaginable item, spilling over the pavement and into the road. Along the narrow roadway, (just 1 lane in each direction with plenty of potholes), travel giant articulated trucks, jostling with little 3-wheel “Tuc Tuc” taxis, bikes loaded with 4 plus passengers, 
old cars and mini vans serving as collective buses. The stereos blare music, and there are people of 
every type everywhere. It is a town that is always entertaining to visit, as there is just so much to watch, really anything and everything could and 
does happen in Fronteras. John and I were well impressed. What a vibrant place to spend several months!
Next we visited several marinas along the river. There are stores, restaurants and marinas, which can only be reached from the river. We were impressed with all the marinas we visited. The marina we had previously been thinking of staying at was 
on the other side of the bridge. We decided that there was just no chance of a breeze in that area, many of the others seemed to have masses of mosquitoes, which I am reluctant to have around if avoidable. We chose Catamaran Hotel and Marina as our base.
Catamaran Hotel and Marina is just wonderful! Our 
friends Gillian and Gordon off N’Aimless had recommended this marina and it really is the best one for us. We have a side tie, it’s quiet, with lovely gardens, a pool that is partly shaded in the afternoon, a bar, restaurants, cabanas over the water and most importantly is safe for Chico to wander around, (all for only $200 a month).
John and I also dinged to town and walked to and over the Rio Dulce bridge one morning. Which incidentally,
I believe the US Army Corp. of Engineers were contracted to build. They did a magnificent job. The view from the top is spectacular looking down and out across the Rio in both directions. Of course, in true Guatemalan fashion, vendors have set up shop at the top selling all sorts of drinks and eats. Tour buses and cars stop for tourists to take 
photos. Can you imagine the authorities allowing that on a freeway or motorway bridge? We loved the views and happened upon Steve and Anna strolling across the bridge too.
Meanwhile John had employed 3 fellows to polish the stainless steel on Aeeshah. These young men were very inexpensive to hire, worked for less than 2 full days, polished the stainless until it was like brand spanky new. Even the inside of the barbecue was shining like new. It was just amazing!
Before we knew it the time had arrived to travel to Guatemala City to meet Rhianna and Ethan arriving July 18th.
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” – William Arthur Ward
“If you are lucky enough to find a way of life you love, you have to find the courage to live it.” – John Irving
