PHOTOS HERE–>> Guanaja, Honduras Bay islands  

Sunday June 19th, we are leaving Guanaja after arriving in the morning of Tuesday June 14. We both would love to have been able to stay longer on this extra special island, but will have to return one day. It is definitely one of the most unique places we have visited.

 

 

 

Guanaja

is quite a large mountainous island, with peaks of about 1200ft, surrounded by reef and cays with fabulous beaches. Unlike other Caribbean islands Guanaja has fir trees, the endemic Guanaja  Pine covers most of the slopes. The population totals around 10,000, unbelievably 8,000 of those people live on a single cay.

Bonacca Cay,

which is around 100 acres, and found in the main Harbour. On this cay they have built a labyrinth of a town. The buildings around the outer edge being on stilts over the water, but up to 3 stories high. Running through the town are narrow walkways, alleyways and canals. In some instances the family transport – boat – is “parked” right under the house. Apparently the isle used to be 2 Cays, but they have merged into one as the population has grown. There are very few people living on the large main island of Guanaja. Why is this? Well according to the locals there is a nasty sand fly that bites and makes life uncomfortable, so they choose to live in a labyrinth of buildings on Bonacca.

John was quite skeptical concerning a dreaded biting insect, until he by the second day, was covered in large, very itchy, uncomfortable bites. Normally I am the one that the mosquitoes and no-seeums feast on, but not this time. Our neighboring boat, Landmark, with Colin and Anne were also eaten by this bug. They said it looked like a small flying flea like bug; I never saw it and luckily never suffered its bites.

Immigration and Port Authority

Ashore we went on the afternoon of our arrival, to the immigration fellow first, no problem, two minutes later we had our 90 days and were on our way to Port Authority – aka Customs. There we were faced with needing 2 photo copies of everything plus a picture of the boat. (Yeah-1st place we have ever heard that wanted a picture of our boat.) So off we went, back out to the boat and print a picture of Aeeshah, we could only print in black and white though. Meanwhile having found an ATM, for cash, a internet place that sold SIM cards, plus the grocery store that did copies of our documents, we returned to the Port Captain. Picture was – “no good, need colour print! Go to Internet place and print a colour print.” Soooooo, off we go, get the colour print. By then it was later in the afternoon, I was shattered from lack of sleep, we were both well fed up. We get the colour print, go back and “no! Picture no good! Need picture of boat here!” Then he announces that he is off to measure a ship, so by then I/we had had enough, I left the colour print on his chair and we headed back to Aeeshah.

The next morning we returned to the Port Authority where he said he needed to go out to our boat with his phone to take the picture himself. So John runs him out to the boat where the Port Captain takes 2 pics of the boat. Back ashore he tells us to return again the next day for our paperwork. Returning the next day, we had only a few more hoops to jump through, 1st more of the same questions for John for still more papers. Then he opens a door off the main room, calls us through, we find ourselves in a back room corridor, where he asks for money for the photo copies…….so in the end it’s all about a “donation” to the Port Captain. John gave him 100 L….. (About $5.00), he was very happy, said our papers were perfect, we could go anywhere, “gracias amigo!” and we were free. We found each cruiser had a different story to tell, different papers, different pictures, different donations to make.

 

 

Bonacca

Throughout our checking in time we had plenty of opportunity to learn our way around the Bonacca, it is quite a puzzle/maze of narrow lanes, alleyways, stores and houses. Everywhere was neat and tidy, painted and well organized. Everyone was very friendly and helpful, quite a lovely town, so interesting to wander around.

 

 

 

 

 

Sandy Bay

Our anchorage was a bay called Sandy Bay and was a good 10-minute fast dingy ride away from Bonacca, the wind was blowing a good 15 – 20kts while we’re were there so each dingy ride was a wet affair. However we managed to travel about each day.

 

 

 

Guanaja

The big island of Guanaja is split into two by a narrow canal. Heading through this canal on each side are mangroves, at the end we found the lee shore where there were more wonderful beaches and coves.

 

 

 

 

 

We dinged along the shoreline, stopped at a beach to walk, found a trail and followed it inland a short ways.

The vegetation again is quite different as the main local tree is a pine, which gives the slopes a unique appearance. Not wanting to leave the dingy on a beach unlocked we didn’t venture far, but could see lovely hiking in the mountains.

 

 

Back along the coast we stopped at what we thought was a lighthouse. We climbed the cliff and walked up to the “lighthouse” which was someone’s home. They were not home but a big sign said Welcome! There looked to be good walking trails behind and I wanted to go back the next day to explore.

 

 

 

Mi Casa Too

We went for the best meal ever at Mi Casa Too, a colourful restaurant on the hill across from the anchorage. Anne and Colin came with us; we landed the dingy on a dock, walked the steep hill to Mia Casa Too and found it to be just lovely. It is very brightly, but discreetly decorated with solid wooden furniture, a wide balcony with looks right out over the anchorage and Harbour. There is a wonderful breeze and the music is great. I had Lionfish and it was one of the

best fish dinners ever. To go with the fish was a crisp green salad, coconut, wild rice, and breadfruit fries. The best meal I’ve had in years. Everyone agreed the food was excellent; the evening was fun and one that will be remembered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hike the slopes

Off we set to explore the lee shore again, hoping to hike the slopes. We stopped at a beach near the lighthouse. Upon reaching the lighthouse we found that it was occupied. The couple was the caretaker and his sister, they invited us in to climb to the top and check the view. The view was lovely looking down on the bay and across to the forested slopes. We asked for directions to the top and set off.

It was a hot, tough, climb. Many of the slopes are covered in pine trees; the fallen pine needles make a very slippery slope for climbing. We got to the top of the 1st mount, but another loomed ahead, we got to the top of the second mount, another was ahead,

 

then to the top of the third mountain, but still couldn’t see the other side clearly, so up we climbed along the ridgeline to the tallest peak which looked out over both shores.

 

 

 

We enjoyed the view, had a snack and water and set off down for a challenging downward climb. The views were worth it, the scenery was lovely, but it was very, very hot.

 

 

 

 

We meant to zoom up a few bays for a refreshing snorkel, but dingy had other ideas……. engine decided it didn’t want to zoom, it just wanted to run walking pace.

 

 

So we jumped in the water and had a swim, cleaning up all the scratches from the hike to the top. Then of course the wind had risen so we had a very slow dingy ride back, into the wind, with big seas, which took 1 hour 40 minutes, as opposed to 15 minutes at our regular fast dingy ride.

 

 

 

The time spent in Guanaja was excellent! We are going to return and spend at least a month there sometime soon.

The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. – Eleanor Roosevelt