FOR PHOTOS—>> San Blas Islands and back to Panama mainland
Green Island and Nargana town
We went back to Nargana to get some water. This time we decided to do the task ourselves. So up the Rio Diablo we went with our jerry jugs and water bottles. It is always difficult to locate the mouth of the Diablo River as it blends into the jungle. We found that as it was Saturday many of the Nargana town folks were also headed up the river off to get water and for the ladies to do their laundry. Heading up the river is just lovely, the jungle is beautiful, the bird noises are incredible, seeing them is not easy unless they are brightly coloured. Butterflies and insects fly all round and the water is so clear you can see the river fish. Once upriver we went upstream from those doing laundry and having a wash and decantered our water. It was a fun expedition.
Back at Green Island we were please to be able to anchor off of the tiny palm tree island that sits off on its own surrounded by the reef. There we snorkeled and awaited weather to set off for the mainland. One day we bought a larger lobster from some Gunas. Well Chico was just totally entranced by this strange creature. It was quite entertaining. Plus he also enjoyed eating the meat too.
Linton Bay
We stopped in Linton Bay as some friends had found us a cat sitter in the marina there. While there we went for a very nice hike along the coast road. It was great to get some walking in after being on the water and island bound for a few weeks. Again the Panama countryside is very lovely.
Shelter Bay Marina
Back at Shelter bay Marina we were happy to meet up with friends that arrived on the rally and with those we had met before. We took advantage of the days to get as much accomplished as possible. Stocking up, getting Chico his booster shots, receiving our parts order, using wifi and laundry at last, and going for bike rides and outings.
Bike rides
Our first bike ride took us along the Fort Lorenzo lane to the 1st beach. Along the way we saw tiny spider monkeys leaping across the lane from tree to tree. There were virtually no others along the lane and riding under the jungle canopy is lovely even in the high 80s. The beach where we stopped was completely deserted and we had a very nice walk along it. I was particularly happy to find many great shells, cowries and tulips to name a few.
Another bike ride we took was to find the observation tower in the jungle. This was at the far end of the Fort Lorenzo lane. Again it is a great ride but as our destination was much further – 8k – and all a gradual uphill it was a bit of a slog. Arriving at the sign we decided to ride the 3k trail again uphill but this time in the jungle. We heard many birds and insects but seeing them is really difficult unless they are brightly coloured they are well camouflaged in the dense jungle canopy. We arrived at the end of the trail and found no tower. However you could see out somewhat over the jungle. We later found out the platform, built by the Americans had been there 20 years ago but like much of the American base it has returned to the jungle. The park service just keeps the trail open now.
From there we rode another few k to the Rio Chadres where there was a landing dock. It was again perfectly lovely and so peaceful along the river. We wandered around and also ate our lunch. There was one cruising boat anchored a short way up the river and that is exactly what we hope to do too. Afterwards it was back to the marina, and mainly all downhill!
Embera Village visit.
We were lucky to be at the marina when a visit to an Embera Village had been arranged. The Embera and Wounan people are pre-Columbian peoples of eastern Panama, some of the indigenous peoples of Panama. During the colonial era they proved to be a valuable ally of Maroons, such as Bayano and Felipillo. The legacy of the symbolic relationship is still alive and well in the upbeat tempo of their music, product of the African drums. Embera people are the only indigenous people in Panama that have the drum as a part of their musical instruments.
We were taken by minivan to a tributary of the Chrades river where their canoes were waiting for us. After climbing onto their large canoes we set off for an hours ride to and along the shores of the Gatun Lake. Arriving at their village we were met by the colourfully dressed villagers who set about greeting us with music. The children are lovely, the women beautiful and everyone was just so happy. We looked around the large shelter where their craftwork was displayed. Their craftwork is exquisite!! Totally original and made from what they “harvest” from the jungle. We gathered in a typical “home” where the Chief explained their history and culture. There is no TV or any electronics, no electricity or any modern conveniences in the village. The ladies were cooking on log fires. Three logs and set ablaze at the end and the cooking pot is put on top. It is a very hard wood and lasts several weeks before they need new logs.
What was most interesting to me was their history. They lived originally in the region where the Gatun Lake is now found. When it was decided to build the canal it was necessary to flood the area thus creating what is now the huge Gatun Lake. Around the lake was to be all national park and protected. The government of Panama gave the peoples warning. They were told they could continue to live in the area but could no longer hunt the deer or wildlife, nor could the farm their rice and other crops. So the Embera peoples decided to adapt to the new lifestyle. They create their wonderful crafts, trade, and work in nearby communities while still following their original culture. Asking about their matrimonial “system” it was explained that no two from the same village or community can “marry”. The leader said he set off at 14 crossed the country and found his wife in the village we were in. He then had to prove his worth by building a home and establishing himself before she would become his. Quite progressive thinking I think.
Lunch was excellent! They served us a piece of river fish that was very tasty, cooked banana and plantain all in a banana leaf cone.
In the large shelter we were also entertained by their music and dance, plus allowed to wander around the village. Watching the children was a highlight. They are very innocent and so very lovely.
We returned by canoe to our mini van and back to the marina after an excellent day!!
To do the useful thing, to say the courageous thing, to contemplate the beautiful thing: that’s enough for one man’s life. TS Eliot
You cannot help but learn more as you take the world into your hands. Take it up reverently, for it is an old piece of clay, with millions of thumbprints on it.
John Updike