Santa Marta, Aracataca and Minca

For PHOTOS click —>> Santa Marta, Aracataca, to Minca twice

Santa Marta, Columbia

Our first day John – Bad Bunny- took us on a city tour. He literally walked us everywhere, to the fabricators, to the upholsterers, to the market, the grocery stores, around the tourist area, the contraband area, and to the cheapest area for good local foods. We were out for hours exploring, it was an excellent tour.

The city is buzzing with life, there is a store or a service for every conceivable item anyone can think of. The venders line the streets selling more stuff than can be imagined, Spanish music plays, pedestrians hustle around, it’s all busy, busy, busy. The traffic follows a one way system, which makes crossing the road somewhat easier, but the drivers are very spontaneous and reactive. They honk horns impatiently, squeeze between each other’s vehicles, ignore traffic lights and consequently we saw many near misses and several fender benders. Santa Marta is a very colorful, lively city.

It is definitely a city to get repairs or odd jobs done. We took our 6ft by 3ft cockpit cushions in to the upholsterer and had new foam inserted. He did a marvelous job at the cost of approximately $15 that’s 45 000 pesos. I had the best wash, cut and blow dry done since being home at a cost of $8US. Just amazing how inexpensive everything is.

Aracataca

Our first visit outside the city was to Aracataca, the village where Gabriel Garcia Marquez was raised. He had written “100 Years of Solitude” based on his childhood in this village and the experiences and stories he encountered as a child. John had read half the book and I had read one of his other books, so when it was suggested we visit the village we agreed. Our group consisted of Mike and Jean off Tomorrow’s Dawn and Ian off Rosidente. To get there we had to catch a bus from the main bus depot, which turned out to be quite easy as everyone rushes to help you.

The bus was a large air-conditioned bus and the ride was 1 and 1/2 hours through the countryside. It was quite pleasant looking out at the vast expanse of farmland. We arrived just outside the village on the main road and then had to figure out which way to go and where to find the Museum/house. After some confusion trying to “speak” to the locals to get directions we finally figured out the general direction to head.

Upon reaching the building dedicated to Gabriel Garcia Marquez we read the accounts of his and his family’s lives, it was interesting and informative. From there we purchased refreshments and sat under a large shady tree in the village center watching the comings and goings in the village. Around the village we strolled, and then along the railway tracks back to the main road to get a bus back to Santa Marta. We ended up on one of the smaller buses, which stopped along the way to pick up locals and their various bundles. The ride back was not as comfortable, but it was entertaining.

Minca

The second outing was with the same group and we headed to Minca situated in the mountains above Santa Marta. To get to Minca you go to Calle 11 and Carerra 12 in a yellow Santa Marta taxi. They are numerous and run all through Santa Marta for the same price of 7000 pesos which is just over $2.00. At the corner of Calle 11 and Carerra 12 you get a collective to Minca. A collectable is a jeep that fills up with 6 – 10 people and charges about 6000 pesos per person, around $2.00. It becomes evident why a jeep/ overland vehicle is necessary when you see the roads. The roads are very windy, uphill, full of huge potholes, and in many places muddy ditches where the road has given way in a landslide. Not a ride for nervous dispositions. To be fair the roads are being worked on and in areas aren’t too bad. It took about an hour to arrive in Minca and again it was a fun-entertaining ride.

Minca is a very lovely mountain village where you can visit waterfalls, outlooks and pools. It is also a center for hiking in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Again none of us really knew where we were headed, so the collective driver just pointed up the lane, which we took to mean that the waterfalls and such were in that general direction. Up we walked, now the impression we had was that the attractions were close or next to the village, not so, after an hour we found the turn off for the path to the

Azure Pools – PozoAzul.

Down another path we walked for about 1/2 an hour where we found the pools. However as this was a weekend and the pools were very crowded indeed. It was a lovely setting and after looking around, back to Minca we walked arriving about an hour later. It was really a very pleasant, unexpected hike uphill and downhill. Back in Minca we found the place absolutely crowded out. The roads were completely blocked both ways by the traffic of very impatient visitors, people trying to squeeze by, dogs, children all throughout the traffic and then the rain started. We were lucky to find a little place to eat some wonderful empanadas and home made ice creams. We walked to the river and found out that it being a public holiday the next day meant that Minca was busier that anyone could ever remember it being, the police were trying to sort out the traffic and were even turning motorists away. We luckily found our driver, climbed aboard, he had to reverse a ways downhill before he could turn and head back down the mountain road.

Minca again

John and I decided that we would spend a few nights in Minca so that we could hike during the day to areas we had not visited.

Oscars Place had been recommended as place to stay. We set off into Santa Marta, then by the collective up into the mountains and Minca. We had luckily researched the way to Oscars, as it is quite a long way out of Minca, not on a road but along a narrow mountain path. The walk there is very lovely along the trail, up and down and along the ridge, plus through a river. We really wondered how he had managed to build his place. He later explained that he used mules. Oscars Place looks out over the mountain slopes towards Santa Marta. The view is spectacular! Our booking was for the Jungle Loft, which was again, located a distance from Oscars – downhill. From there we also had a terrific view, but it was quite a climb to the top. We were the only ones staying in the Jungle loft area so we had the area to ourselves. There is no electricity so at night we would use our torches to find our way back to our loft.

On our first day we had lunch and hiked to Marinka Waterfall. This was a few hour hike there as we set off light rain started and as we reached our destination the heavier rain began to fall. The waterfall was beautiful and John went for a dip under the falling waters. The hike back down was quite challenging as the mud was very deep in places, so with the downward motion it was easy to slip. We didn’t though.

On our second day we were told by Oscar to catch a ride with one of the motorbike taxis and visit Victoria Coffee Plantation. Off we went on the back of a motorbike each. I found it quite fun, somewhat scary when we skidded in the mud and very bumpy over the rough terrain. John however was terrified he told me. As he is never a pillion passenger he found the ride was not enjoyable. This motorbike taxi cost 8000 pesos each, which is about, or just under $3.00 for a half hour ride up the mountain.

La Victoria Coffee Plantation

At Victoria we were given a tour, which was very interesting. The original equipment from 124 years ago is still being used. The newest equipment is the electrical, which was installed in the 1950s. It is really an operating coffee museum. However the equipment is used lightly and there are only 3 harvest months November to January. The rest of the year is the growing of the coffee and maintenance of the place.

From Victoria we hiked out to the “roadway” and headed up towards El Campano. We had been told it wasn’t too far away and from there we planned to cross the ridgeline to Los Pinos, but plans changed. It took us a couple of hours to get to El Campano arriving after 1:00pm, where we were faced with more up hill on a very small track, plus we could see the clouds coming down the mountain. So we reluctantly turned around and hiked back to Minca, which took us nearly 3 hours. To be honest we were both tired out and had aching legs.

During the evenings we would have dinner and chat to the fellow travelers staying at Oscars. We found that we were by far the oldest. The others were in there 20s, 3 of them were Israeli fellows who were taking a break before having to join the army. Others were from Holland and Argentina, which made for interesting conversation.