It has been nearly a month now since the family left Curacao and here we are in Klein Curacao again on our way back to Bonaire to meet our next set of guests, John’s brother Al and his daughter Harri.
What have we done in the last month?
Bike riding:
We had several excellent bike rides. The best area was along a shoreline path from Jan Thiel beach to the Aquarium. This path cuts above the cliffs, past the huge salt pond along more cliffs and comes out at the back of the Aquarium. Unfortunately for John he got 2 flat tires so had to push his bike all the way back. We both really enjoy riding our bikes.
Hikes:
We had spent quite a bit of time anchored next to a peak in Spanish Waters that looked to be surrounded by cliffs, cactus and thorny bush. The impression was that there was no way to the top. Well during one of our rides we met some local guys climbing out the wilderness on a track from the direction of the area. Upon asking if that was the way to the
top they explained how to get there. The next day we set off to hike to the top. The trail was very rugged, but much shorter than it looked and within 30 minutes of entering the trailhead we were at the top of the peak looking down on Aeeshah and Spanish Waters. The view was magnificent!
When we reach the trailhead again we noticed another “hidden” path. Curiosity encouraged us to follow this trail too. We found that it led all the way around the bush, cliffs and boulders below the peak. It was a really pleasant trail, shaded a good part of the way. There was really interesting vegetation that had obviously adapted to the extreme dry conditions. The tree trunks were all twisted and shriveled, the branches were covered in long thorns, fresh shoots and leaves were appearing along with a bright yellow blossom, plus these small swirly snails were living all over the lower trunks.
Back to Bermuda
Before I knew it was time for me to travel back to Bermuda for my second colonoscopy that was needed due to an area of abnormal cells that had been found previously. I was really sad to go. I was away for 2 weeks, the 1st of which I was not well at all. The second week passed by keeping busy but I was very anxious and when I finally saw the Dr I was extremely stressed. When he told me that the area that they had thought was an ulcerated tumor had just totally gone, that all that was left was the small tattoo that had been put there to mark it, I was just so stunned, relieved and suddenly stress free! The next day I flew back to Curacao that was just 3 days ago.
Meanwhile Curacao
While I was gone John did a load of chores. He varnished, checked rigging, did plumbing, waxed, polished and did engine maintenance, plus more. He kept company with Sorren, Ian, Kim and others in the anchorage playing Mexican Train dominos, also taught Chico to play, rode the shopping bus to do laundry and rode his bike everyday. So he kept busy.
Our plan is to entertain Al and Harri for the two weeks they are in Bonaire and then to head to Santa Marta in Columbia.
Bonaire revisited:
CLICK HERE for PHOTO ALBUM —>> Bonaire with Al and Harri AND—–>>
Underwater Bonaire in September
So off we set sail from Klein Curacao. The day was not as we had planned. The previous
afternoon and evening there had been thunder, lightening and rain, which had not been predicted in the weather forecast. As the wind had picked up significantly so had the seas. It resulted in just about the worse crossing we had ever had. The winds were a steady 20 – 25 knots; the seas were at least 6-8 feet with a rough chop on top. For me the crossing was hellish. I told John, never again, and I meant it. 7 hours after leaving we finally arrived in Bonaire. The boat was a right mess inside and out, but I was just too ill to deal with any of it that evening.
The result was we spent the next day getting Aeeshah back in shape.
Al and Harri arrived in the evening:
After picking Al and Harri up from the airport, John brought them straight back to Aeeshah where they had a beer and jumped into the water for a nighttime swim and then rinsed off. It was a novel way to kick off their holiday.
The following day they acclimatized and had a relaxing stroll around the town. John invited some friends, Mike and Jean onboard for drinks and we had a fun evening.
Touring on bikes:
Our 1st outing was spent on rental 50cc bikes exploring the island. Following the road towards the salt ponds we visited the salt works and old slave quarters/homes. We saw flamingoes, windmills, the lighthouse and stopped at the wind surfing area for a cool drink. Then we cut across island and had lunch in Kralendijk at a waterside cafe. A great fish sandwich, drink and desert all for $11, an excellent lunch.
From there we followed the west shore road all the way to the oil docks. Stopping to see the Tolo cave area, the various look outs and dives sites. Al and Harri both enjoyed feeding the iguanas that appeared at one place we stopped. We finished up by looking out over the national park, spotting more flamingoes in the huge salt ponds in the Flamingo sanctuary and various other birds such as the Caracara. Our last stop was the old capitol of Rincon where we bought another refreshing drink before deciding our bottoms were very sore and we needed to head back.
Amazing Bonaire waterworld:
Both Harri and Al were very impressed by the water where we were moored. The whole of Bonaire is Marine Park and protected so visiting yachts have to pickup a mooring buoy and these are all found in front of the main town. However this town’s anchorage has to be the cleanest in the world. The shallow water is crystal clear turquoise; this is where the moorings are located. Harri had never snorkeled and so she was able to learn in the wonderful water off of the town where we were moored. She quickly picked up snorkeling and wanted to try diving. (Al had his certification from when he was in the navy).
Klein Bonaire:
For her 1st dive we headed over to Klein Bonaire with the dingy. John took Harri and Al into the sandy shallows where Harri had her 1st dive experience. John had encouraged her to look at the Padi book, Al and John went over a few important details with her, they suited her up in the shallows and Al then did the “drills” underwater. They then were off and had a successful dive. All in all Harri had 6 dives with Al while in Bonaire, some right off the mooring in front of the town and others off of Klein Bonaire. They were both very impressed with the underwater life here, there is an abundance of fish of many many species ranging from giant tarpon to schools of reef fish to the deep water tuna, turtles, Rays, all types of corals hard and soft, and schools of dolphin too. John and I also dove. I enjoyed using the Gopro that Al and Harri had brought us.
Off road travel:
We hired a vehicle that was allowed in the National Park and set off for 2 days of land exploring. The 1st day we visited the Washington Slagbaai National Park and drove the long route, which took all day. Along the way we stopped at different Bokas, which are places where the sea has eroded the shoreline into inlets or bays where the sea just rolls in and crashes onto the shoreline. Another lovely spot was Suplato; here there was a massive cave that had been eroded into the rocky shoreline. We climbed up Seru Bentana where there is a natural window eroded into the rocks at the top. We stopped at Malmok where there is the lighthouse and had a picnic lunch beside another lovely bay Boka Bartol while watching Pelicans dive for fish. We saw the salt ponds with the famous wild pink flamingos and we swam in a beautiful bay, Wayaka, where Angel Fish were swimming up to us.
Arawak drawings and caves
Our second day off road we set off to find and explore the northeastern shore where there was said to be
Arawak drawings and caves.
There are no directions for how to get to this area so we headed off road along very rocky bumpy tracks. We found a track that
followed the shoreline and stopped at the lighthouse, looked out over the rugged, desolate landscape and enjoyed being the only people around. Afterwards we followed another track that went along the side of a cliff face. There we finally found the original inhabitants drawings on the cliff walls. We also found caves, which we explored, disturbing the bats and even a large Barn Owl. It was extremely hot in this area as there was little wind and with the desert like conditions the heat was wicked.
One day we spotted Dolphins playing in the water, so John, Al and Harri. Went in the dingy to watch and film the Dolphins with the Gopro.
It was an excellent 2 weeks in Bonaire with Al and Harri!
I asked them to answer some questions to get their opinion of Bonaire and their holiday aboard Aeeshah. Here they are:
1Q. What was your 1st impression of the Bonaire?
1A. Our first impression of Bonaire was the pristine marine environment so close to the town.
2Q. What did you enjoy the most while on board Aeeshah?
2A. The food, hospitality, fun and adventurous spirit.
3Q. What did you find the most difficult to adjust to when living on the boat?
3A. The rolling and humidity but got used to it after a couple of days.
4Q. What did you enjoy the most while ashore?
4A. Ashore, the trips around the island by bike and truck. Especially the national park and off road.
5Q. What will you never forget?
5A. The dolphins and the diving (and climbing up the mast).
6Q. Which were your favourite excursions/places?
6A. Klein Bonaire and meeting your adventurous fellow cruisers at the cruisers dinner.
7Q. What did you think of the cruising lifestyle?
7A. I’m extremely envious!!!
8Q. What did you find surprising about the lifestyle?
8A. Nothing…it’s perfect!
9Q. What do you miss?
9A. You two….and the delicious food, sun, sea and adventure!!
10Q. In a few sentences describe your 14 days spent with us….
10A. That was the best 2 weeks holiday ever, crammed with adventure.
Seeing Harri blossom into an intrepid adventurer.
Spending quality time with you both…. can we come again, please?
I don’t want to get to the end of my life and find that I have just lived the length of it. I want to have lived the width of it as well. – Diane Ackeman
You are never too old to set another goal or dream a new dream. – CS Lewis