Tobago

Tobago at last!

TOBAGO PHOTOS click—–>> Tobago at last!

TOBAGO PHOTOS click—–>> Under water in Tobago

We left Tyrell Bay at 10:30 on June 4th and arrived off the coast of Tobago at around 4am – 108 total miles. There we hove to and slept till daylight. The crossing was an excellent one as the winds and seas were very manageable, which was just as well as by dusk I was not doing well and spent the rest of the night suffering from sickness. Poor John had the next 8 hours single-handed as I was incapacitated in the cockpit. I really need to find a cure for this nighttime seasickness.

As we sailed in at daybreak we were accompanied by a large pod of dolphins. They were lovely to watch in the early morning light swimming along side and jumping through the waves.

The anchor was dropped in

Store Bay.

We tidied up and John slept. Then it was off to Scarbourgh to check in. To get there we assumed that we would get the bus, but discovered that in Tobago the way to go is in a “taxi”. This is really a person driving a regular car who toots; you flag him down, jump in and ask how much. The legal ones have an H on their number plate, but really anyone will stop and give you a lift for a fee of a few TTs. Very easy but they drive like maniacs.

In Scarbourgh we found the custom and immigration offices and did the regular miles of paperwork using the regular carbon paper after filling out the 1st page and then being told to do 4 more that are exactly the same. Why do they need all these copies? Only they know, to fill filing cabinets maybe.

We were quite surprised by how developed Tobago is, at least the Store Bay Area to Scarborough. There are decent roads, shops and homes. However it is not very scenic, just quite commercial, John calls it telegraph road.

We took at walk out towards

Pigeon Point National Park,

which is quite lovely with palm trees lining the shoreline. And before we knew about the ” no entering the park by dingy rule” we took a dingy ride across the sand flats to “No man’s land”. I really can’t understand the rule as there are jets skis flying all over the place, local party boats galore, and the locals seem to have no regard for the marine park as there is trash abounding, but I guess they have a reason. The area was pretty, but not amazing, basically a shallow flat surrounded by mangroves.

We have walked all around the Store Bay area, to the airport, to another public park and beach in Store Bay, and up and down the few roads. The little restaurants all have very different and interesting foods. There are Arabic, Indian, Chinese and West Indian places offering very different foods. The favorite so far are the gyros offered at the Mediterranean/Arabic food places. The rotis are also excellent and you can have them served as a whole or separated on a plate. At the roadside food stands I was fascinated by the different offerings. One dish looked like slices of mango in a salad, well it turned out to be unripe mango slices in a spicy marinate – very tasty. The next looked like beetroot, but it’s sweet mango, this is almost as if the mango has been preserved as jam spices, goes well with curries and again delicious. We also tried 2 different types of coconut sweets; one was flavored with ginger and was my preference.

We have stocked up with all the necessary provisions for our visitors and rented a car to help. John was astounded by the price of the fuel and diesel, – diesel at .95$US is practically giving it away. Getting everything back to the boat was a bit of a task as there isn’t any type of dock so you have to beach the dingy and then load up with the surf. Luckily the surf has been cooperative and its not been too difficult.

Our second day with the car we drove all around Tobago.

The bays are very beautiful but do not look good for beaching our dingy. Again dingy docks or even any docks are not there. We were really stunned when we went to look at

Great Courtland Bay and saw a huge Leatherback

lumbering up the beach from the sea. She must have had the time wrong as it was mid morning, but there she saw, in the heat of the day. We watched as she tried and tried to dig a hole. She moved several times until she settled in a spot and continued to dig. Meanwhile several people had gathered, some were plain stupid and wanted to go up to her. The “officials” arrived and we left shortly after. It was a treat to watch her, but sad too.

As we traveled north the roads became much narrower and windy going up and down the steep slopes, not for persons afraid of heights. We found we needed to ask directions as nothing is signposted and twice we were going in the complete opposite direction. Everyone was helpful and we ended up giving rides to 2 different men. The second of which creeped me out when he said, “you really mustn’t give rides as its not safe – you’ll be robbed”

The countryside is mountainous in the north but many of the slopes are not covered with trees but bamboo, lovely but different to the other islands. As said the bays are spectacular and virtually deserted, some looked to be good anchorages for the day. We arrived in

Charlotteville

in the afternoon and were very impressed with the area. The bay is huge, looks to be a good anchorage and there is a dock!! Everyone was very friendly, and easygoing, sitting around enjoying rum and such. Fishermen were cleaning their day’s catch and there was an abundance of sea birds. We enjoyed a “pie” for a late lunch. The pie was a tasty crust stuffed with very spicy potatoes. We are looking forward to spending time in Charlotteville this summer.

The drive back was along the eastern shore, which we found to be more developed – easier driving. The seas crash up along ferociously on all of the bays and beaches. No safe anchorages there.

We had arranged for my cousin Iain and his wife Laurie to visit with us while we were in Tobago. They stayed aboard for a week and we spent most of the time enjoying the water, as their passion is swimming/snorkeling. We all had a great week. I asked them to write accounts for me to post in order to give a different perspective on our lives.

Laurie’s account follows:

A Week in Paradise: Tobago, June 15- June 21, 2014

We spent a week in Paradise – Tobago to be exact, at the invitation of Iain’s cousin, Jen, and her husband, John, aboard their amazing sailboat, Aeeshah.

It was a bit of a struggle to get there due to weather related flight cancellations two days running. We finally booked a new route via Miami but this required over nighting for 5 hours in Trinidad. We awoke to pouring rain and missed the first flight to Tobago but we eventually arrived in Tobago the morning of Sunday, June 15th. Just upon landing the rain stopped, the sun came out and a rainbow appeared in the sky as we left the airport with Jen and John. The gorgeous rainbow, a harbinger of good things to come!

We made our way to the beach

where the dingy was waiting and saw our first glimpse in person of the gorgeous blue and white Aeeshah. Aeeshah was anchored in Store Bay, which was minutes from the airport and our base for two days. We were amazed at the spaciousness and comfort provided by Aeeshah, a true home upon the water. Soon after, we were snorkeling in the clear beautiful blue green waters of the Caribbean. Iain and I both share a great love for snorkeling and underwater photography and so

it was exhilarating to be back in the water again.

We immediately spotted fish unseen before by us- the French angelfish was a favorite, as well as the White spotted filefish who seemed to pose for photos. It was hard to leave the water! That evening we ventured back onto land and wandered the streets for dinner. Being Sunday many places were closed but as Jen and John were familiar with the area we bought a great meal and carried it back to enjoy in the comfort of Aeeshah. By now we loved the gentle rocking of the boat and spent the first of many nights sleeping better than ever.

On Monday we started by securing provisions for the week. It was interesting to observe the sights and sounds of this area of Tobago as we made our way to the grocery store. Once stocked up with groceries we took a taxi to the absolutely necessary stop- the fruit stand. Here the owner treated us all to many exotic and delicious fruits, a real treat. From there it was back to Aeeshah, lunch, and another snorkel. This time John took the dingy to the outskirts of Buccoo reef. We were not allowed to enter the reef proper, it being a protected marine park, where one is only allowed to enter with a local guide. Dinner that night back aboard Aeeshah was excellent, as all meals were, Jen being a fantastic cook.

Tuesday we left Shore Bay to begin exploring farther down the coast where it is more mountainous and much less populated. Tobago is approximately 16 miles long and from what we saw much of the shoreline is dotted with tantalizing bays, all begging to be explored. The forest extends right down to the coast, and save for a few local fishermen in their small boats and the occasional small town or settlement, all was deserted. As we were going against the wind John motored Aeeshah to our next destination,

Castara Bay.

Along the way we were treated to flying fish and proposes skimming alongside. Once in Castara Bay,
while Jen and John set the anchor I was entranced by a sky alive with frigate birds, boobies, and pelicans. Castara Bay was absolutely lovely. The bay was quiet with just a handful of other sailing vessels and on shore was a small settlement and the requisite local fishermen passing in their small boats.

As soon as possible we were snorkeling again. The first day in Castara we explored the coastline and the bay beyond. We found the underwater to be truly superb, a place alive with the most gorgeous corals and absolutely teeming with fish of all types. There were massive schools of fry and larger fish completely encompassing you as you drifted through. We saw fish of every type from the occasional ray and barracuda, an octopus, a green moray, a ballonfish, and colorful reef fish enough to fill a book. There were enormous staghorn and brain corals, green corals, sea fans and sea plumes, and sponges of all shapes and colors. The terrain ranged from medium rocks and coral cropping closer to shore and what seemed to be underwater rock mountains with their cavernous reach to the sea floor further out. Disney could not have created a more enchanting environment.
Wednesday Jen and John took us on the dingy farther along the coast to explore the bays, which were completely deserted of human life save for us. The rock formations, the forest ringing the coast, the underwater spectacles, it was purely amazing. If Iain and I had constructed from scratch our fantasy vacation we could never have dreamed it could be so

Thursday we headed to the end of the island and the little town of Charlotteville

where Jen and John will return to spend their summer. Again, as Aeeshah motored against the wind we were enchanted by the sights of mountains smothered in virgin rainforest above, hills below bedecked the same folding to the sea, and beguiling bays too numerous for all to have names, birds swarming the air, and flying fish sailing across the sea. The bay at

Charlotteville is huge and made up of Pirates Bay and Man O’ War Bay.

We anchored at a breath taking spot in Pirates Bay with a sprinkling of other sailing craft and close enough to shore that we could snorkel from the boat. Snorkeling here was every bit as first class as Castara bay and then some. As Jen and John had business to take care of on shore, Iain and I spent the entire afternoon snorkeling along the shoreline. I found not only the fish and invertebrate life spectacular but the rocks and stones were adorned with every color. The colors ranged from deep crimson aside pink, purple, blue, green, brown, and orange. On the coastline were massive slabs of purple rocks where the hills had given way. I couldn’t help but collect a few of the colorful rocks to take home.

On Friday Jen and John took us to the far side of the bay in the dingy. We had a nice snorkel around the coast and then another dingy ride out to

Booby Island.

Here we found excellent snorkeling, and with the sun shining bright we got some excellent photos to match. After lunch we were back in the water for a long snorkel, perhaps our last as our trip was coming to an end. And to end a spectacular day, on the snorkel back to Aeeshah Iain spotted a turtle resting in its tiny rock cave.

That night, as all nights aboard Aeeshah, we enjoyed another delicious meal prepared by Jen, and the camaraderie of those two unique, adventurous, and fun loving spirits, Jen and John. We cannot say enough about their generosity and hospitality. The sun sets early in Tobago being so close to the equator and I can say there is nothing like seeing the sun set from the vantage point of being on the water. And although we never saw the fabled green flash just as the sun crosses the horizon as John described, we certainly were ready for it cameras in hand.

Saturday was our last day in Tobago. After breakfast Jen and John had exiting business to take care of on land and Iain and I were to have one last snorkel or so that was the plan. Just then, Joe, a local fisherman approached the boat and asked for help pulling in his fish traps. Jen encouraged us to go as this would be fun but Joe the fisherman had other ideas when he saw I was one of the volunteers. He promptly scooted over to the nearby catamaran and enlisted a Frenchman. Joe said they would be gone two hours. And so as Jen and John headed off to shore I took one long, lovely, last snorkel alone in the Tobago sea. By now I knew the rocks and corals, where to find the little school of copper colored glassy sweepers hidden up against the purple rock slide, the immature sergeant majors drifting along the rock edges, the school of yellow goatfish, and one of my favorites, the large schools of blue tang. Two hours passed and first Jen and John returned and then Iain, the Frenchman, and Joe with Joe’s boat (aptly named “Joe’s”) now full of fish.

Soon after Aeeshah was readied, Jen pulled up the anchor, and we headed out of Pirates Bay, this time going with the wind and sailing. What a lovely experience, to see the sails flying, to feel the wind and Aeeshah piercing through the sea all under sail power. It seemed all too soon we were back in Store Bay where this amazing adventure began. But as we know, all good things do someday have to end, but not totally. We have our photos, and we have our memories, and the stuff dreams are made of. Thanks, Jen and John.

We will never forget our week in Paradise!

I asked Iain to write about his adventure with Joe the fisherman. Iain wrote:

It was our last morning in Tobago

and the Aeeshah was anchored in Man ‘O War Bay in Charlotteville, when Joe the fisherman motored up

and said that his worker had been busted the night before for marijuana possession and was locked up, and whether we could help him haul up his fish-pots. Initially Laurie and I were going to go, but then Joe asked the Frenchman from the boat anchored next to us to help (I didn’t catch his name and he didn’t speak any English), and so it was Frenchman and I that went to help Joe.

The three of us motored up to the north-eastern corner of the island, past London Bridge Rock, where Joe had his first fish pot. We quickly developed a routine: the Frenchman would grab a marker buoy and pass it to me and I would pull in the buoy and rope, Joe and the Frenchman would pull up the fish-pot letting the rocking of the boat do most of the work, and then Joe and I would haul in the heavy fish-pot laden with fish.

Fish-pots are made of iron rebar welded together and covered with chicken-wire and baited with rotten fish. They are efficient at catching all kinds of fish. It has a trap door that we untied, and then Joe and I would lift up the fish-pot on its side and let the fish fall out into the forward compartment of the boat. We hauled up a multitude of fish, mostly Triggerfish and Red Snappers, but also some unwanted Balloon fish and Porcupine fish which were thrown back. The bait-pot was re-filled with rotten fish and tied up inside, the trap door was closed and tied up, and then the whole thing was dumped overboard at a different location.

This was repeated five more times. On our second haul there were mostly
Red Snappers and two lobsters. On our last haul we found a venomous Lion fish which had to be very carefully scooped up in a bucket and thrown back. I was surprised that it wasn’t killed to stop the spread of this invasive species. Joe had a good catch that was to be sold in Charlotteville. Although I didn’t get a last snorkel, I got a good introduction into fish-pot fishing in case I want to change my occupation.

After dropping Iain and Laurie off at the airport we headed to Trinidad at 6:00am the next morning. The passage across was quite rough, but a fast sail for most of the way.

Scotland Bay

was where we stayed for the night. It is a beautiful bay, surrounded by forested slopes that were full of parrots and other birds. The following day we entered Chagaramus and made our way to Coral Cove. The marina had set aside a berth for us but unfortunately the boat was still in it,
so we had to berth alongside the slipway for the night. Once we were finally at our berth the next day, we cleaned, cleaned, cleaned the boat, did laundry, stowed and packed. In the few days before we flew out we also managed, 2 shopping bus trips, to meet with friends Jo and John off Out of Africa, before they flew out; to have doubles at breakfast and a tour of the area with friends, Nancy and Dave off Falkes and to also go with them to dinner at the Wheel House. Our conclusion about Trinidad is that it is terrific and we look forward to the summer months we will spend there and in Trinidad after our visit home to Bermuda.